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Ecoventura ‘Itinerary B’ Galapagos Islands Cruise Review

• Last Updated: January 15, 2023

We spent one week cruising the Galapagos Islands on Ecoventura’s Itinerary B route, onboard their first class yacht, the M/Y Letty. This is our review.

The Galapagos Islands are one of the most remarkable destinations on the planet. It is a place so diverse and unique with wildlife, it inspired the naturalist Charles Darwin to form his theory of evolution during his travels there.

Ever since I had first seen a giant tortoise from the Galapagos Islands in Taronga Zoo in Sydney, I had wanted to visit the remote archipelago.

Once we had made our plans to visit South America, we started to look at the most incredible destinations on the continent – Patagonia , Easter Island , Machu Picchu , and of course the Galapagos Islands.

Having done some research it became clear there were two main ways to explore the Galapagos: Basing yourself on one island and doing day trips, or travelling on a cruise.

Here is our photo essay on the ‘ Magic of the Galapagos Islands In Pictures ‘

There were obvious benefits to both, but the more we looked into it doing a cruise became the clear winner, as it provided a better opportunity to see more of the archipelago, with a lot less people.

Once we had booked our flights, we immediately started looking at cruise companies in the Galapagos Islands.

Table of Contents

Arriving At The Letty

Day 1 – san cristobal island, day 2 – genovesa island, day 3 – santa cruz, day 4 – fernandina and isabella island, day 5 – isabella island, day 6 – santiago and rabida islands, day 7 – santa cruz island, day 8 – san cristobal, walking around the letty, a typical day onboard the letty, our thoughts, the ‘itinerary b’ cruise with ecoventura.

The number of tour operators running cruises in the Galapagos Islands can be surprising – there are literally dozens of them, and not all are created equal.

Some operate small boats with basic amenities, while others have large ships with everything you might expect to find on a cruise in the Caribbean or Mediterranean.

We wanted something in the middle: A small-group tour on a ship with high-end amenities, that also visited the best places in the archipelago with a heavy focus on sustainability.

It sounded like a big ask, but when we found Ecoventura we knew they offered everything we wanted, and more.

Ecoventura runs two different 7-night itineraries around the Galapagos Islands on two different styles of ships – first class yachts and luxury yachts.

The two different routes are to minimise the impact of tourism on the archipelago, but it could be hard to choose between one itinerary or the other based on what we wanted to see. Essentially we wanted to do it all!

Luckily we had an opportunity to experience both itineraries that Ecoventura offers, and with plenty of time up our sleeves we jumped at it.

For the first week we took part in their Itinerary B (Northern and Western Route) , onboard the first class yacht, the Letty.

It would take us to places day trippers couldn’t get to, such as Genovesa and Fernandina Islands, and time our excursions in each place to have almost no other tourists there.

This is our review of the Ecoventura Itinerary B, Northern and Western Route, in the Galapagos Islands.

To say we were excited when we touched down in the Galapagos Islands would be an understatement – we were jumping out of our skin!

Our flight from Guayaquil to San Cristobal was short and comfortable, and soon enough we were disembarking in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the port city of the island.

We got off the plane, went through customs control and purchased our national park tickets. At this point we were meant to collect our backpacks, but Avianca had lost mine on the way from Cusco. Luckily Alesha’s was waiting for us.

Malena, the National Park Ranger, certified naturalist and our guide for the next 7 days, met us at the gate, and along with the rest of 8 passengers who were also on the flight, filled us in on what would be happening.

Minus one backpack, we jumped on the minibus and drove out to the jetty, where some of the crew from Ecoventura were ready with the pangas to take us to our ship.

Walking down the pier we met some of the local residents – the group of sea lions that chill out where the boats come in! It was hard to peel us away from them, but Malena promised we would be seeing hundreds more sea lions over the next week on the Itinerary B Route.

As we zipped across the harbour we got our first glimpse of the Letty, one of Ecoventura’s classic first class yachts.

The stewardess Claudia (who would become one of our favourite people over the next week) was waiting at the stern to welcome us onboard.

We all headed down to the lounge and met the members of the crew. Captain Peter (one of Ecoventura’s most experienced captains, and an ex-Navy Commander) introduced himself, and before too long Claudia showed us to our cabin.

The cosy room was elegant and charming, with timber decorations a comfortable bed as well as a private bathroom.

All checked in we headed back downstairs to the dining area and had our first delicious lunch, made fresh by the expert chefs and served by Luis, the waiter and bartender.

At this point we noticed one of the pangas going out. Malena told us that my backpack had arrived at the airport, and the captain was heading there to collect it personally. Shortly after it was delivered safe and sound into our cabin. Talk about service!

We quickly unpacked our bags and got ready for our first excursion of the trip.

Jumping back on the pangas we cruised back to San Cristobal , getting off at the jetty and boarding a private minibus.

The afternoon’s excursion was to visit the giant tortoises at the Centro de Crianza Jacinto Gordillo. We had only been in the Galapagos a few hours and already we were seeing one of the archipelago’s most famous species, and the one that had first inspired me to visit all those years ago!

This protected area at the backside of the island is home to dozens of giant tortoises that wander around freely. Seeing these enormous reptiles up close was better than we ever could have expected.

The footpath twists through crowded trees and shrubs, and spotting the giant tortoises resting in the shade was a fun exercise.

Malena told us all about this unique species, and when we were finished looking at the adults we visited the rear of the centre, where newborns were protected from predators in enclosed pens.

Once our memory cards were filled with tortoise pics we made our way back to Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and enjoyed some spare time watching the marine iguanas and sea lions chilling by the jetty.

Back on board the Letty Captain Peter and his crew met us with a welcome cocktail, which went down very quickly. Malena then sat us down for a briefing for the next day’s activities, which would be a done every night over the trip.

We had some time to enjoy a few more local beers and wine before dinner. Luis cracked us up with stories and kept the drinks flowing.

We started to get acquainted with the other 8 guests on the boat and had a lovely time as night fell.

It was time to leave San Cristobal, and we took some of the complimentary seasickness tablets before retiring to our cabin.

The sound of music came over the speakers for our wake-up call. Malena wished us a good morning and told us that we were now anchored in Darwin Bay of Genovesa Island.

We jumped up in a rush and ran outside, excited to see the remote island circling all around us. It was slightly overcast, but it did little to dampen our spirits.

After the buffet breakfast we packed our camera gear and headed to the island on the pangas.

The landing went smoothly and we climbed Prince Phillip’s Steps to find ourselves face to face with a group of Nazca boobies.

Rather than flying away from us, they almost took no notice, and Malena told us all about their species while we stood only a few metres away.

We walked around the island, passing dozens of Nazca boobies and beautiful red-footed boobies, with a few even nursing babies. We couldn’t help but snap hundreds of photos, not realising that these encounters would be commonplace for the next week.

The volcanic island was fascinating to explore, with vibrant colours in the lichens and trees breaking up the near-black surface. Storm petrels flew overhead.

Dozens of boobies were relaxing in the branches, and towards the far shore of the island we saw our first marine iguanas outside of San Cristobal. It was clear that the entire island was a tranquil habitat for the animals here.

After the land adventure we got ready for the next exciting activity – kayaking!

Having kayaked in many wonderful locations , we knew that kayaking in Galapagos would be something just as unique as anything we had done before.

We paddled along the cliffs, keeping an eye out for sea lions and bird species, before making our way back to the Letty for lunch ahead of our third excursion.

This time we headed to the white-sand beach that sat on the shore of the bay. Even with the volcanic surroundings it looked like paradise.

As the pangas approached the beach we were greeted by a herd of sea lions. They waited until the moment our boats touched the sand to scamper the other way, and we disembarked.

For the next hour we wandered the beach, checking out more Nazca boobies and frigate birds, with their large, red throat pouches.

It was a relaxing walk, and we had lots of time to simply sit on the sand and admire the creatures.

The sea lions were hilarious, and it was obvious that they were going to become our favourite animal in the Galapagos Islands.

As the sun started to set we headed back to the Letty for dinner and drinks. Our first full day was amazing, and we couldn’t wait to see what was in store for us next.

Santa Cruz is the most inhabited island in the Galapagos, but where we first anchored on day 3 was completely void of people.

The crew prepared the zodiacs and we headed out from the Letty to touch down at Las Bachas beach.

This stunning stretch of pristine white sand dotted with cacti, shrubs and porous rocks created an idyllic setting for the day’s excursions.

To start with we headed to the beach to enjoy a lovely walk amongst the hundreds of marine iguanas, with an imposing volcano rising above us in the distance.

With the sun beaming down we had started to work up a sweat, and soon it was time to head out for a snorkel with the marine life.

We were completely giddy with excitement, and couldn’t believe our luck when only a few minutes after entering the water we came across our first sea turtles.

Chilling in the algae without a care in the world, these beautiful animals let us come right up to them. Taking care not to touch the turtles, we floated next to them, falling in love with their calm, majestic nature.

As we were swimming back to the beach a playful sea lion suddenly appeared out of nowhere. It circled us excitedly, acting very curious. Rather than feeling nervous, playing with the sea lion was an absolute joy, and left us on a high.

Lunch was filling and for the afternoon we headed back onto the island to go for a walk around Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) .

This landing gave us our first opportunity to see the enormous Galapagos land iguanas that roam around Santa Cruz.

Looking like prehistoric beasts, the land iguanas can grow up to 1.5m long and are often found lounging in the dirt or under trees.

Besides the land iguana we also caught glimpse of a wonderful pink flamingo. Malena wasn’t sure if we would get this opportunity, so we were ecstatic to see one standing in lake.

The day ended with a gorgeous sunset, and we enjoyed a few drinks on the sun deck of the Letty.

It was a long sail from Santa Cruz to Fernandina on the far west, but when we woke up in the morning we were met with another gorgeous day on the youngest island in the archipelago.

The highlight today was going to be a chance to see the flightless cormorants, which is the only cormorant species that has lost the ability to fly, and can only be found on Fernadina and Isabella Islands..

The pangas dropped us off at Punta Espinoza, and we headed out over the rough volcanic rocks in search of marine iguanas and birds.

Punta Espinoza is home to the largest colony of marine iguanas found anywhere in the world, and seeing them in such huge numbers was simply awesome.

When we reached the far point of the island we finally caught glimpse of the flightless cormorants nesting on the rocks.

We aren’t usually the type of people to get excited by birds, but the flightless cormorants are a very cool species and we felt lucky to be able to see them on the Itinerary B route with Ecoventura.

Once we were back on the Letty it was time to cruise through the Bolivar Channel towards Isabella Island.

Stomachs filled with another delicious lunch we jumped back on the pangas and disembarked at Urbina Bay.

Isabella was formed when 6 volcanos rose out of the sea, making the landscape extremely dramatic in every direction.

During the excursion we were lucky enough to see some giant tortoises in their natural habitat, which just added to the magic of the Galapagos.

When we weren’t admiring the tortoises, we were walking around massive land iguanas, which were laying right in the middle of the path.

After we had returned from our loop walk we had about 45 minutes to go for a snorkel, or explore a bit more of the beach.

We opted to sit on a rock and watch the pelicans, turtles and iguanas go about their usual business.

Most of the excursions have a very active element to them, so the chance to simply sit and observe was greatly appreciated.

The sun set over the horizon, dinner was served and more drinks were enjoyed as we said good night to another amazing day in the Galapagos Islands.

A short overnight journey took us further north along Isabella Island and we started the new day visiting one of the most beautiful locations in the entire Galapagos, Elizabeth Bay.

We took the panga into a cove surrounded by twisting red mangrove trees. After days of volcanic landscapes, it was awesome to mix up the views with such lushness.

The deeper we got into the mangroves the more abundant the marine life became. We started to lose track of the sea turtles as they breached and swam all around us. We must have seen at least 30 in the space of an hour.

On a few occasions we even saw groups of golden rays gliding beneath our boat, creating brilliant silhouettes in the morning sun.

Elizabeth Bay was also the only place where we saw a sea lion not in the water or on the beach, but rather lazing on a branch of one of the mangroves. Malena hilariously renamed it a ‘tree lion’, and we managed to get the zodiac as close as 2 metres to the resting mammal.

As we were heading back towards the Letty we came across a new species, which everyone had been desperate to see.

Standing on two small rocks in the middle of the cove we finally saw a pair of Galapagos penguins – the northernmost penguin found anywhere on the planet.

We managed to spend quite a bit of time observing the birds before they eventually swam off.

While we were all completely elated, Jorge, our boat driver, figured we had enough time to circle around the rocky islands known as Las Marielas in search of a few more penguins.

Fortunately we came across a whole rookery of them, and we were counting our blessings at seeing so many at once.

In the past Alesha and I had met people who visited the Galapagos Islands and never had the chance to see the penguins, yet here we were watching around a dozen of them. To say we were over the moon is an understatement.

After an action-packed morning we had lunch then moved into Tagus Cove, which is known as being an historic safe haven for pirates and sailors for centuries.

Before we would touch land we had the choice to go for a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) around the cove. Alesha opted for a kayak, while I jumped on the SUP.

As we were paddling around the cove we saw turtles, sea lions and even another penguin! Where else in the world can you see so many amazing species while out on the water?

The last activity of the day was a hike to the top of a hill for an incredible view over a salt-water lagoon, with the ocean in the background.

This walk was more about the vistas rather than the animals, and it felt good to be keeping active during our Galapagos cruise.

The journey from Isabella to Santiago took the captain a few hours longer than expected due to rough seas on the north of Isabella Island, but he expertly guided the Letty through the storm and kept us as comfortable as possible.

The late start meant we could have a bit of a sleep-in and a leisurely breakfast, which was much appreciated by everyone on board.

Once we arrived to Santiago Island we immediately made our way to Puerto Egas and enjoyed a captivating walk between rock pools and lava flows.

Carved out as natural grottoes, the pools glistened in shades of teal and turquoise in the midday sun, creating an inviting playground for the sea lions.

As the tide rolled in blowholes erupted out of the lava, sending marine iguanas running in every direction.

We easily could have spent an entire day wandering around, swimming in the pools and watching the red crabs scuttle about.

Rather than hang out by the pools though, we had some time to go for a snorkel from the beach again.

Again there were plenty of sea lions and a few turtles to admire, and we even spotted a Galapagos shark swimming quietly by some rocks.

The real highlight of this snorkel though was seeing some marine iguanas swimming underwater! It was so strange to see these reptiles hanging out beneath the sea, and we felt very lucky to see them.

The afternoon came quickly and we jumped back on the Letty for some lunch before motoring towards Rabida Island.

The red-sand beaches of Rabida are some of the most unique of anywhere in the archipelago, due to the high iron content found in the volcanic rocks. Nowhere else will you find such dramatic earthen colours in the Galapagos Islands.

Just like most of the other beaches we had come across, Rabida Island was spotted with sleeping sea lions. The excursion was a relaxed affair, visiting a saltwater lagoon before chilling out by the water.

The delay in the morning had resulted in the lucky opportunity to watch sunset from the shore – a first during our entire itinerary with Ecoventura.

As the sun dropped beneath the horizon we captured some beautiful shots, with star fish and sea lions adding a glorious contrast to the red sand.

On our final full day we returned to the habited side of Santa Cruz Island, docking at Puerto Ayora.

This is by far the busiest place of anywhere in the Galapagos, and the small town of less than 25’000 people bustles along with an interesting island vibe.

It was strange to be somewhere so developed after seeing almost nobody for 7 days, but soon after boarding our private bus we disappeared into the highlands.

The lush fields at the top of Santa Cruz are home to an array of interesting geological attractions, and our first stop was the lava tunnels at Rancho El Manzanillo.

The lava tunnels on Santa Cruz stretch for kilometres beneath the surface like a subterranean labyrinth, and we had the chance to walk through a small section of them.

Besides the intrigue of walking through the caves, we also came across a rare short-eared owl hiding in the darkness, much to our delight.

Back on the surface we headed towards the hub of Rancho El Manzanillo, which has been turned into a restaurant and museum.

What makes Rancho El Manzanillo such a worthwhile stop on Santa Cruz is that it is actually home to a huge population of wild giant tortoises that roam freely around the farm.

The land was given to a family back in the 1960s, and rather than remove the tortoises that called it home, they adapted their own business around them.

Fences have a gap at the bottom large enough to allow the tortoises to walk beneath them, while still keeping their cattle at bay.

Inside the ranch Malena gave us a detailed briefing about the giant tortoises, and pointed out a collection of shells that had been preserved after a few had sadly died of old age.

“Jarryd, you should climb inside one for a photo,” Malena directed me. I laughed at what I thought was a joke, before she insisted that she was being serious.

I took her up on her offer and crawled inside one of the huge tortoise shells. Besides making a great photo opportunity, it was a cool insight into just how heavy these things are. I could barely hold the shell off the ground for 10 seconds before my arms started to weaken.

Snaps taken we then were given some free time to check out the farm and see many of the tortoises relaxing or walking around. Getting up close to them was a real highlight of our Galapagos Islands cruise.

The last stop on Santa Cruz was the Charles Darwin Research Station, with its exhibits on wildlife and history of the Galapagos Islands.

The Charles Darwin Research Station is also a breeding centre to help boost the number of giant tortoises in the Galapagos Islands.

With the effects of global warming and human development some species of giant tortoise have become extinct. It’s the centre’s goal to re-establish these numbers.

We met Diego, a bit of a legend amongst tortoise breeders, who almost singlehandedly saved his species from extinction with his sexual prowess, and many of his offspring.

The Charles Darwin Research Station is also home to Lonesome George. Known as an icon of conservation, Lonesome George was found on Pinta Island, and discovered  to be the last of his species.

Numerous attempts to get Lonesome George to reproduce failed, and he unfortunately died in 2012. Today his body has been stuffed and preserved in a small mausoleum.

To be honest after seeing the giant tortoises in their natural habitat, visiting them in pens at the research station was a bit underwhelming. Still it’s one of the most popular spots in the Galapagos Islands, and no trip would be complete without a quick visit.

The rest of the afternoon was free to walk around the town, and we found a bar serving happy hour cocktails to while away the time.

Back on the Letty we had our last amazing meal then retired.

Sadly our time on board the Letty for Ecoventura’s Itinerary B was coming to an end, but we still had one final excursion before departure.

Captain Peter stopped next to Isla Lobos, a small island close to San Cristobal, and we had an hour just after sunrise to walk around the place.

The highlight here was the huge abundance of newborn sea lions that were scattered everywhere we could see.

You would be hard-pressed to find anything as cute as a 2-day-old sea lion pup, and they flopped round like baby Labradors.

Completely new to the world they would come right up to us, checking out our feet before moving on in search of their mother, who would be watching carefully from afar.

There was also a huge group of blue-footed boobies on Isla Lobos, and we relished in the opportunity to be surrounded by so many amazing species at once.

Heading back to the Letty we had our final breakfast with the group and finished packing our bags.

As we arrived back in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno we did the rounds and said goodbye to the lovely staff that had looked after us during our Galapagos adventure.

For seven nights the crew had become our family, ensuring our every want and need was catered for, transporting us safely around the islands and leaving our group with memories that would last a lifetime. More than that they had become friends, adding a personal touch to our adventures.

The last panga ride to shore was emotional, and the whole Ecoventura crew stood on the deck to wave us off.

Almost everybody in the group were on the next flight to Guayaquil, but there was still some time to before their departure to enjoy one last excursion; a visit to the Galapagos Islands Interpration Centre on San Cristobal.

This modern museum and gallery is the best indoor attraction in the entire archipelago, and the information of the island’s history and ecology is expertly presented.

The bus drove us back to town and we waved to goodbye to the 8 other people who had joined us on Ecoventura’s Itinerary B adventure.

For them it was time to depart, but we were about to board the M/Y Origin and experience Ecoventura’s other option, Itinerary A to the Southern and Central Islands. We knew it would be hard to top the previous week, but somehow we had a good feeling about it….

Exploring the Galapagos Islands on Itinerary B by Ecoventura was honestly one of the most remarkable travels of our entire lives, and something we would do again in an absolute heartbeat.

Life On The Letty With Ecoventura

Ecoventura runs a fleet of four ships, about to be expanded to five, around the Galapagos Islands: Two first class yachts, the Letty and Eric, one luxury yacht, the flagship M/V Origin (about the be joined by the M/V Theory), and the Galapagos Sky, which is their luxury diving boat.

The Letty and Eric are their two oldest boats, but that doesn’t mean they are left without any creature comforts you would expect on any high-end yacht in the Galapagos Islands.

From the moment we boarded the Letty we instantly fell in love with its timber décor, spacious common areas and comfortable cabins. It isn’t modern, it is charming.

The top deck is perfectly set up for relaxing on the lounges with a drink in hand, watching the world pass you by. Half of it is protected by a sun shade, while the other half is open to the elements.

There are two floors for accommodation, and we were on the upper deck. Four cabins can be found here, all with private bathrooms, and we had a twin room. The rooms weren’t large, but had ample room to make you feel at home.

Heading down one more deck there was another two double cabins, as well as the dining room, bar and lounge, where all of our daily briefings would take place.

The lower deck had four more cabins, although these were empty during our trip with Ecoventura.

The Letty isn’t the biggest ship in the Galapagos Islands, but you don’t want it to be. There is only capacity for 20 people, which means you are guaranteed a small-group on all of your tours with Ecoventura.

What it lacks in size it more than makes up for with the service of the crew and comfort of line onboard.

We’d start every morning with a gentle wake-up call over the PA system, which would give us 30 minutes to get ready for breakfast.

Breakfast was buffet style, but you could order any special dishes such as eggs in any style from the chefs. Cereals, fruit, bread, jams and hot dishes were typical.

After breakfast we’d head out for the first excursion. We’d load up our camera gear, put on a life jacket, then hit the islands.

Depending on the itinerary we’d either return from the first excursion and jump straight into the second one, usually kayaking or snorkelling, or have lunch, which was also a buffet with fresh and delicious meals.

There’d be some time to relax after lunch before the third excursion, then it’s back on board in time for sunset drinks on the sun deck.

The naturalist would give a briefing after sunset about what would be happening the next day, then it was time for dinner.

The evening meal was always the best, and you’d have to put in your order from a menu at lunch. This was a 4-course meal with a soup, an entree, main and dessert, with meat, fish or vegetarian options.

As you would expect the chefs are experts in their profession, and the meals were some of the best we had anywhere in South America.

After dinner most people would hit bed early. Every day is pretty jam packed on an Ecoventura adventure, and you’ll definitely be ready for sleep at night.

It’s no secret that we absolutely loved the Itinerary B route with Ecoventura, and were very impressed by the quality of service from the guide and crew.

We managed to see almost everything we wanted to in one week on the Galapagos Islands – giant tortoises, all 3 types of boobies, marine and land iguanas, turtles and other amazing bird species like petrels and finches.

It’d be hard to fault anything with our experience. If you are the kind of person that prefers a large cabin or a huge amount of space to walk around the boat, perhaps you might find the Letty or Eric a tad small.

Likewise if you want a spa or gym, the Eric and Letty don’t have those amenities. In that case consider going on a tour with Ecoventura’s MV Origin. Keep in mind that tours on the Origin are more expensive.

If you want a high-end, small group tour exploring some of the absolute best locations in the Galapagos Islands, you’d be hard pressed to beat the Itinerary B route with the Letty or Eric, and we highly recommend it and the services of Ecoventura.

Is it better than Itinerary A? You’ll have to wait for our review on that trip to find out…

[box]Our Galapagos Islands cruise was made possible thanks to or partnership with Ecoventura. All thoughts, opinions and thousands of photos taken with baby sea lions are, as always, our own.[/box]

Alesha and Jarryd

Hi, We’re Alesha and Jarryd!

We’ve been traveling the world together since 2008, searching for the planet’s best destinations and adventures.

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The power of travelling outside your comfort zone, the 21 best royal national park walks (2024 hiking guide), the ultimate 3 days in new york city itinerary (2024 guide), 16 awesome free things to do in sydney (2024 guide), 2 thoughts on “ecoventura ‘itinerary b’ galapagos islands cruise review”.

Have had a life long desire to visit the Galapagos. Loved your pics. What time of year did you visit? Did you pay regular Ecoventure rates, or were your fares comped or discounted in return for travel review? Either way, I’d love to go! Thanks

Thank you so much. Sorry about the late reply. Galapagos Islands is incredible. We were working with the company to provide them content. This review is our thoughts and our own opinion. The company did not tell us what to write or treat us any different to any other guest. Happy travels

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This 20-person Yacht Cruise Is the Best Way to See the Galapagos Islands — Without Disturbing the Animals (Video)

The sweat trickles down my forehead as I attempt to keep pace with my hiking group on what was intended to be a quick morning jaunt on the island of Española in the Galapagos.

Beyond the small huffs and puffs from the people on this journey with me, there are few other sounds; just the bugs buzzing and the ocean waves crashing nearby. It’s perhaps because of this eery silence that the next moment is so thrilling.

After rounding the corner to the very top of the hill we finally come upon the sight we are after: A blue-footed boobie sitting silently on her nest, which happens to be filled with two round, speckled eggs.

We watch her throat throttle back and forth in rapid succession to cool herself in the equatorial sun. She barely notices our arrival and doesn’t care as we stared at her, inspecting every feather and detail from a safe distance, trying our best to crane our necks to see her soon-to-be little ones. We sit there until our group leader tells us we've overstayed our welcome and will miss our ride home if we don't hurry.

Having this quiet moment to gaze upon nature and appreciate it in all its glory, and being told when it’s time to high tail it out of there as to not disturb the habitat, is exactly why I chose to see the Galapagos Islands with a small, eco-friendly cruise company known as Ecoventura .

“Galapagos is the place god forgot to finish,” Ivan Lopez, one of the two naturalists onboard Ecoventura’s boat, The Theory, tells me as we load back into our dingy to head back to our vessel. Indeed, it’s a place that seems gloriously untouched and left by some higher power with just the right amount of rough around the edges. And it will only stay this way through the sheer determination of local leaders, travel experts, and tourists willing to step up to ensure their trip is as ethical as possible.

It’s no secret that the Galapagos Islands are a wildly popular destination. In 2017, more than 275,000 people made their way through the archipelago, marking a 14 percent increase in tourism from the year before. All those tourists, just like me, have come to catch a glimpse of a world still dominated by animals like massive sea lions, iguanas, hammerhead sharks, and the endangered Galapagos tortoise. However, the combination of too many people and the threat of climate change is forcing both Ecuadorian officials — who are now considering increasing park fees to $400 per person — and tour companies alike to rethink how they bring guests to see this almost prehistoric place.

“Environmental protection is something we have been spearheading for nearly two decades,” Santiago Dunn, CEO of Ecoventura, tells Travel + Leisure. He notes their newest vessel, Evolve, is its most eco-friendly boat yet, even beating out my boat, The Theory: “As we continue to ‘evolve’ our fleet we’re keeping sustainability front of mind. It remains a key factor through our conservation commitments on board as well as our involvement with not-for-profit organizations.”

Beyond things like installing alternative energy sources to offset carbon emissions and producing their own fresh water on board each boat, Ecoventura takes it one step further by only allowing 20 passengers on each sailing. The crew also includes two naturalist guides, so there are no more than 10 passengers per guide at any time.

“It’s more personalized,” Lopez says. “With Ecoventura, you can experience something totally untouched. It’s a fragile place. Sometimes you need an expert to interpret it because we live in different worlds.”

It’s a method that proves to not only be helpful in ensuring the protection of the animals and the environment, but also one that helps guests dive more deeply into their animal science vacation.

“The Galapagos as a destination is highly exclusive and it should be approached as such, and our fleet gives travelers an intimate experience around the archipelago that is simply not possible aboard larger vessels,” Dunn says. “This starts with the most favorable naturalist-to-passenger ratio in the Galapagos. We also only offer a full week cruise on our entire fleet. By offering only seven-night itineraries, we limit the number of visitors the islands receive every year versus if we were to operate the shorter three and four-night cruises that bring a lot more people to the islands and require more flights.”

The beauty of choosing a smaller vessel, Dunn adds, is the unique access to parts of the archipelago that larger ships can't reach.

“As a boutique cruising company and family-run business, our impact is significantly smaller as we have more control over our conservation efforts and how we protect these cherished islands,” he says.

The boats also offer something else for guests thanks to their small size: a sense of family and a total democracy. Each room is the same size; the meals are all enjoyed together in the morning and in the evening. It is then that everyone can decompress and re-live the day’s adventure as they make their way through San Cristobal, Española, Floreana, Santa Cruz, and Bartolome Island.

It’s a sense of community I’ve never felt on a curated vacation before as we all pour over one another’s photos, laughing at funny moments, and learning more about each creature we came upon earlier in the day. Before heading to bed each night, the boat’s naturalists go over the day ahead and give a short animal behavior lesson to further drive home the point that we are visitors to their home and not the other way around.

It’s terrain so entirely different than any place you’ve seen before. It’s a destination that will live with you forever and quickly becomes a piece of paradise you want to recommend and protect all at once. And that makes it all the more important to travel with a company you know loves the Galapagos just as much as you do.

“We are blessed to be able to operate in such a breathtaking corner of the world, but that beauty and purity is not something we can take for granted,” Dunn says. “We must work very hard to preserve it so that the land, waters, and wildlife of the Galapagos can be enjoyed by generations to come.”

To learn more about booking a seven-day cruise with Ecoventura’s environmentally friendly boats, which start at $7,850 per person for a double-occupancy room, check out their itineraries here .

Related Articles

Meet The Luxury Yachts Bringing the Bucket-list Galápagos Islands Closer for 30 Years

Notoriously remote and difficult to access, the pristine Galápagos Islands have long been one of the ultimate bucket list destinations for countless travelers. A trip to the islands that inspired Charles Darwin’s Theory of Evolution with their unique flora and fauna is closer than ever with Ecoventura , the only award-winning Relais & Chateaux vessel to sail the archipelago. Step aboard one of the luxurious Ecoventura yachts to discover the experience of sailing among the Galapagos Islands with a company with 30 years of making this bucket list dream a reality.

A locally operated company with over thirty years of experience navigating the fragile ecosystems of the Galápagos Islands, Ecoventura presents a fleet of three luxurious yachts that island-hop across the archipelago. These remarkable ships introduce visitors to the best these untouched islands have to offer, both by land and sea.

Gateway to the Galapagos

Expedition itineraries highlight unique areas of the Galápagos Islands and bring guests face-to-face with the fiercely protected, pristine landscapes that naturalists consider among the most pristine environments left on Earth. With an immutable respect for nature and a minute ecological footprint, Ecoventura manages to operate with the luxuries of an upscale boutique hotel, all while floating above waters rich with incredible marine life.

Biodiverse Beauty

Seven-night expeditions embark on two different routes among the islands, including daily excursions and educational briefings led by two certified naturalists intimately acquainted with these landscapes and their flora and fauna. Ecoventura offers the most favorable passenger-to-naturalist ratio among any Galápagos expedition, allowing passengers to get up close and personal with everything from serene sea turtles and generations-old tortoises to the islands’ famous blue-footed boobies.

Ecoventura’s Volcanic Wonders itinerary explores the northern and western islands of the Galápagos, while the Beaches and Bays itinerary traces the southern and central islands of the region. Guests can even combine the two back-to-back expeditions for a top-to-toe exploration of the islands while enjoying a bespoke sailing experience aboard Ecoventura yachts.

Million Dollar Views

Exploring the Galápagos is a bucket list experience made even more memorable aboard an Ecoventura yacht. Each vessel’s impressive offering of activities and little luxuries onboard only enhances the experience between excursions island-side.

Lounge in Paradise

Ships offer jacuzzi tubs and outdoor showers for unwinding after a day spent exploring the islands. Open-air dining and lounging on the deck affords breathtaking, uninterrupted views of the dramatic volcano-formed shorelines of the Galápagos.

Enjoy the sunset over the Pacific Ocean with a cocktail in hand, while whales breach and sea lions play in the distance, for a happy hour you’ll never forget.

Ecoventura Dining

Ecoventura’s spectacular dining experience is yet another memorable detail of these bespoke journeys. Chefs use sustainable, locally sourced ingredients from island farmers, offering unmatched freshness even in this remote location. Various options at every meal offer flexibility to individual tastes and diet needs.

A Culinary Experience

Meals include local and international inspiration, with menu highlights including everything from Ecuadorian coastal favorites like encebollado to international favorites perfect for every palate.

Rooms and Suites

A maximum of 20 guests on each Ecoventura vessel ensures an intimate travel experience for every guest. Contemporary staterooms are serene and surprisingly spacious, allowing guests to retreat between excursions or mingle in common spaces with like-minded travelers and expert naturalists.

Comfortable Configurations

Ecoventura welcomes families with children ages 12 and up on any itinerary, with yachts providing staterooms designed with families in mind. However, designated Family Departure itineraries are also open for families with children as young as 5.

Relax and Enjoy

The ships’ interior lounges and common spaces are designed for evening briefings and lectures provided by Ecoventura naturalists onboard. The ships’ libraries and boutiques also feature shelves filled with texts dedicated to exploring the Galápagos Islands and, of course, Charles Darwin’s groundbreaking works that the islands inspired.

Sleek Design

Ecoventura ships’ sleek and thoughtful design makes expedition sailing to remote, untouched islands feel anything like venturing off the grid. Instead, yachts mimic the aesthetics of an upscale boutique hotel for an intimate and unforgettable journey with every luxury that travelers could dream of.

Island Escape

From staterooms to open-air spaces for socializing with fellow guests while spotting wildlife and taking in coastline views, every corner of Ecoventura yachts is designed not only as a destination to relax and unwind between shore-side excursions but as part of the Galapagos Islands cruise experience itself.

Bucket List Experience

It’s easy to see why these eco-friendly luxury yachts, the only Relais & Chateaux vessels to sail these untouched waters, are considered to be one of the best ways to experience this bucket list destination in luxury.

Enjoy with Ecoventura

Whether the highlight of your bucket list expedition to the Galápagos Islands is a visit to the islands’ famous tortoise sanctuary, swimming with sea lions, or simply island hopping, it’s one you won’t forget. Even travelers with the most sky-high expectations will be blown out of the water by the Ecoventura experience.

Carley Rojas Avila

Carley Rojas Avila is a bilingual New York-based travel writer, editor, content marketer, and the founder of the digital travel publications Explorers Away and Home to Havana. Carley is an expert on all things Latin America, the Caribbean, and Cuba, having lived and worked in four different countries in the region. Her writing has appeared on the Associated Press wires and in Travel + Leisure, Yahoo, MSN, Euronews, The Weather Channel, and more. When she's not writing about her travels, find her front row at a Bad Bunny concert, befriending street cats, and taste-testing every pizza in Havana.

• The Woodlands

One Texan is reminded of the power of nature in the Galápagos Islands aboard the luxury eco-yacht, Relais & Chateaux Ecoventura.

Ecoventura’s mega-yachts are the only vessels in the Galápagos to be accepted into the Relais & Chateaux group of hoteliers, chefs and restauranteurs.

The Galápagos are comprised of nineteen islands and a surrounding marine reserve, located in the Pacific Ocean some 600 miles from mainland Ecuador.

Ongoing geological activity led to the development of unusual animal life: giant tortoises, blue-footed boobies, sea lions, and more.

Every day with the Ecoventura team was a miracle of joy, luxury, and absolute wonder.

The elegant dining room features marble tabletops, with configurations for private or group dining.

The top deck is partially shaded and fashioned with day beds, hammocks, an outdoor shower, and wet bar.

I found myself gazing online at the yacht’s sophisticated spaces and the on-board, roof deck jacuzzi.

Each Ecoventura exploration yacht has ten premium cabins that foster a sense of connectivity with the islands with sweeping, panoramic views from large windows.

Onboard amenities include delicious cuisine.

Two unique seven-night itineraries depart every Sunday, visiting more than a dozen exclusive visitor sites in the Galápagos National Park for up-close experiences with wildlife.

From hiking to kayaking, several activities are offered.

Returned to Texas, my Ecoventura trip feels like a dream, but one I will always carry with me.

Ecoventura’s Eco-Yachts Are the Chicest Way to Island Hop the Galápagos

The boutique cruiser blends style, sustainability, and five-star dining.

I am going to begin this story about my trip to the wild and wonderful Galápagos Islands by admitting that I didn’t get the fuss at first. At a glance, the islands look scrubby and prehistoric — why, I wondered, would anyone hop a plane to Ecuador to see the landscapes we have plenty of right here in Texas? But my husband, a geologist and birder, has wanted to visit this dreamworld of animals and beauty (one of the globe’s most elusive destinations) since he was a child. “Trust me,” he said. And I do, so we booked a trip on a 20-person expedition yacht run by Ecoventura , the only Ecuadorian-operated company in the Galápagos.

Ecoventura runs a fleet of three luxury yachts: the Origin, Theory, and brand-new Evolve, which debuted in January 2023. Ecoventura offers discerning guests a travel experience that is as transformative as it is chic. The yachts’ names derive from Charles Darwin’s scientific works. Ecoventura CEO Santiago Dunn aims to “combine luxury and sustainability while providing intimate access to some of the most breathtaking corners of the archipelago.”

Ecoventura’s mega-yachts are the only vessels in the Galápagos to be accepted into the Relais & Chateaux group of hoteliers, chefs, and restauranteurs. I’ve visited Relais & Chateaux properties before and was eager to see the only ships in their portfolio. As my husband packed camera lenses, read Darwin’s On the Origin of Species , and swooned over the fact that our vessel offered one expert naturalist guide for every ten guests, I found myself gazing online at the yacht’s sophisticated spaces and the on-board, roof deck jacuzzi . As an exhausted mom, I was on this trip to watch a sunset on a yacht. But in thinking I wouldn’t fall in love with the Galápagos Islands, I was dead wrong.

Every day with the Ecoventura team was a miracle of joy, luxury, and an absolute wonder. I returned home fascinated by wildlife and reminded of the awe the natural world has in store for us if we just slow down and appreciate it. In my daily life, I rush from task to task in a city. What a gift to be guided and taught, re-connected to nature, and pampered on the most luxurious vessel I’ve ever seen.

I usually have a To-Do list a mile long in my head. I was so relaxed aboard the Theory that I forgot my sneakers on one island expedition…but not to worry, a staff member zoomed back to my cabin in a Zodiac boat, found the shoes, and hand-delivered them to me on a remote island before the hike amidst nesting blue-footed boobies with their babies began. On the last day, I couldn’t find my glasses, and an Ecoventura staff member located them and made his way from the yacht to the airport check-in line to return them to me with a smile.

Read on and trust me when I say my husband was right — this is the trip of a lifetime. I am so thankful I stepped outside of my comfort zone, let my brain wander and refocus on giant tortoises; hilarious land iguanas; seals and their sweet, playful pups snuggling in the sun; ocean vistas, and culinary masterpieces.

Grill Master Haven

What to Read Before Visiting the Galápagos

The Ecoventura ships have small libraries aboard with a selection of publications, some rare, dedicated to the Galápagos and Charles Darwin. My three favorites were The Galápagos: A Natural History by Henry Nicholls , The Beak of the Finch , by Jonathan Weiner , and Wish You Were Here by Jodi Picoult , a beautiful novel set on the islands.

About the Galápagos

The Galápagos are comprised of 19 islands and a surrounding marine reserve, located in the Pacific Ocean some 600 miles from mainland Ecuador. The Ecoventura team handled all travel details from Texas, to an overnight at the luxury Hotel Oro Verde in Guayaquil, to airport transportation and a flight filled with staff and fellow passengers to San Cristobal, an appealing island in the achipelago, where we met the yacht.

The extreme isolation of the islands; the fact that it’s located at the confluence of three ocean currents; and ongoing geological activity led to the development of unusual animal life: giant tortoises, blue-footed boobies, sea lions, penguins, land iguanas, and, of course, amazing birds, including the finch that inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution.

Dining on the Ecoventura Eco-Yachts 

Each Ecoventura exploration yacht has ten premium cabins that foster a sense of connectivity with the islands with sweeping, panoramic views from large windows. It was a thrill to wake and see new islands every morning. Onboard amenities include a full-time concierge — in our case the brilliant Joselyn de Los Santos — a fitness center, a sundeck with loungers and daybeds, a jacuzzi, and sustainably sourced, insanely delicious cuisine. The identical luxury expedition yachts combine stylish décor, world-class service, and luxurious amenities, built with naval steel and designed to minimize environmental impact.

Our cabin held everything we needed for a good night’s sleep — and even a bit of “work-from-yacht” time on my part. With fine bed linens, memory foam, soft pillows, climate controls, and black out curtains, we slept well. A vanity nook with a stool and lighted mirror could double as a small desk; the flat screen TV came with pre-loaded movies; and I appreciated the espresso and tea kettle set up, which included local delicacies and teas. The bathroom was modern with a rainfall shower, plush towels, waffle bathrobes, slippers, hair dryer, and bio-degradable hand soap, body wash, shampoo, and conditioner in dispensers.

The ships feature sustainable features that reduce fossil fuel consumption by more than 30 percent, as well as a prototypical stabilizing system and cutting-edge bow design for smoother and faster sailing up to 14 knots.

The ship’s interior design lets the Pacific Ocean and the islands remain the focus — even the large showers have windows to watch the sea. Ecuadorian designer Cindy Murriagi designed a silver-and-blue palette to match the waves and sky. Many furnishings were made by local Ecuadorian craftsmen and carpenters, and the ceiling in the lounge where geography and photography lectures and Captain’s parties are held is hand-painted.

Murruagi mixes materials like petrified teak, agate (which is made into lamps), gray and white upholstery, leather sofas, and exotic stones to reflect the stark beauty of the landscape. (Which I was embarrassed that I ever thought was dull…as soon as we set foot on the islands, I saw how they were exploding with animal life.)

The elegant dining room features marble tabletops, with configurations for private or group dining. An intimate indoor bar is always open, and local snacks are on offer — the local República del Cacao chocolate bars were my favorite (one had rose petals!), although the dried plantains covered in chocolate were a taste sensation.

The top deck is partially shaded and fashioned with day beds, hammocks, an outdoor shower, and wet bar. Tables and chairs are set up for BBQ lunches (including lobster tails) served al fresco and cooking classes.

Daily Happiness in the Galápagos National Park

Two unique seven-night itineraries depart every Sunday, visiting more than a dozen exclusive visitor sites in the Galápagos National Park for up-close experiences with wildlife, many endemic to the archipelago. We were often the only people on an island, which I have read is almost impossible and a sign on Ecoventura’s exclusivity. Our fellow passengers and our two, world-class naturalists — Ivan Lopez and Jose Castillo — are now some of my favorite people in the world.

Ivan, a dive guide , also sang for us onboard—his song “Galápagos” became a viral hit during the pandemic!

Each morning aboard the Ecoventura, you are served a gourmet breakfast with delicious, local coffees made to order. You’re reminded of the day’s schedule, which will include a morning activity like a birdwatching hike with your naturalists pointing out hidden, rare birds, explaining nesting habits, spotting seals and their pups, and enjoying beautiful vistas over the bluest water. For hikes, you are provided binoculars and zipped on Zodiac boats from yacht to island, then back again where Captain John Feijoo will greet you, and the staff will prepare tasty bites like fresh vegetables with zesty dips, crab cakes, or mini-pizzas. A second activity will be offered — like a snorkel with your personal wetsuit and gear washed and ready to go and your naturalist ready to tell you where to dive down and see an octopus or shark.

(The kind naturalists were also incredibly attentive to younger and older members of our party, making sure they were given private, less strenuous walking tours, if needed, or a buoyant ring and staff member to make snorkeling wonderful for everyone.)

If it was chilly, Joselyn would be waiting after our swim with a tiny hot chocolate. If it was warm, she’d hand us tiny lemonades as we told her about our adventures. A beautiful, freshly prepared lunch was followed by a nap, either on the sun deck or in our cozy cabins. Most afternoons held another incredible tour or two — guided kayaking through waters full of baby sharks, a beach walk to see a vista as breathtaking as the most beautiful artwork. The yacht provided double and single kayaks, stand up paddle boards, full 3mm wet suits, masks, fins, snorkels; even a glass bottom boat.

Happy hour heralded another gourmet snack and a cocktail hour, usually on the top deck to take in the sunset, after which we gathered for a naturalist-led recap of the day and explanation of the next day’s adventures. This fun and informative session, held in an intimate lounge next to the dining room, was followed by a multi-course, five-star dinner every single night . Lobster, crab, caviar, steak, sushi, pork wrapped in apple, fresh-caught local fish…I have no idea how Chef Estuardo Vilela, alongside his Sous Chef Jose Castillo and the bartenders Luis Vera and Juan Pablo Carrera, created and plated such masterpieces in their galley kitchen.

One night, we were invited to sit with our fascinating captain, treated to his tales about his world travels and family, and afterward, we visited his bridge, where we learned about his navigational equipment I sent my mom a photo of me in the Captain’s hat pretending I was steering the yacht.

After dinner, we read in our glam cabin or watched the stars from the rooftop hot tub. One night, we spotted dolphins, and another, whales. Returned to Texas, my Ecoventura trip feels like a dream, but one I will always carry with me. Just knowing that the protected archipelago exists — that the tortoises continue to plod around their park and the blue-footed boobies are tending to their tiny babies next to sea lions playing with each other and with the pelicans…well, it gives me hope. And hope, for me, is priceless.

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