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Wander-Lush

42 Things to Know Before You Visit Istanbul: Helpful Istanbul Travel Tips

Istanbul is a magnificent beast.

Thirty-nine districts, 15 million people, and 1700-plus years of history – it’s still difficult for me to wrap my head around a city of this scale.

I never know where to begin with Istanbul. And yet every time I arrive, I somehow feel instantly at ease. Turkey’s biggest metropolis has a way of encircling you, sweeping you up and taking you along for the ride. For me, it’s one of those places where it’s best to relinquish expectations and anxieties and just go with the flow.

That’s easier said than done, and there are countless tidbits I wish I had known before I visited Istanbul for the first time back in 2019. On my recent re-visit, there were many more things I noticed for the first time.

I struggled to whittle this list down to a digestible size – not because travelling in Istanbul is particularly complicated or difficult, but because when you’re dealing with a city of such incredible breadth and depth, there’s just so much to talk about.

Here are 42 Istanbul tips that I think every traveller will benefit from , including cultural quirks, itinerary planning tips, logistics hints, and common faux pas.

• Also read: The perfect itinerary for 4 days in Istanbul

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Istanbul quick links

• Istanbul airport transfer: Private transfer from Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen (from $27)
• Where to stay in Istanbul: Hostel Le Banc (budget); 38 Hotel (mid-range); Hotel Empress Zoe (boutique); Ecole St. Pierre Hotel (luxury)
• Istanbul Official E-Pass: Pre-purchase online here
• Skip the line: Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia Small-Group Tour (from $40)
• Best Istanbul food tour: Taste of 2 Continents (from $100)
• Top-rated Istanbul city tour: Best of Istanbul in 1 Day (from $60)
• Turkey car hire: Find a low-cost rental on Local Rent (from 28€/day)

Essential Istanbul travel tips

Starting with the basics, here are answers to some of the burning questions I had before my first visit to Turkey (Türkiye) and Istanbul.

1. Avoid visiting in summer

Never underestimate Istanbul’s magnetism. The city pulled in more than 14 million tourists in 2019 (including me), and on my most recent trip in 2022, it felt just as crowded as it had been three years earlier.

I’m willing to bet that most people visit Istanbul during the summer months – June, July and August. This feels a bit hypocritical because I myself have visited Istanbul twice during summer – but because I did, I know what peak season is like.

Istanbul’s climate is quite mild relative to other cities in the region. Temperatures might not go too far beyond 30 degrees Celsius in the shade, but the sun is scorching hot, and it’s very dry.

Aside from the oppressive heat, there are the summer swarms to contend with. (You haven’t really experienced a queue until you’ve stood in line for the Hagia Sophia on an August afternoon.) There are crushing crowds at every landmark during summer, and that gets old pretty quickly. On top of that, accommodation prices are noticeably higher and it can be challenging to get a reservation.

The best time to visit Istanbul is during shoulder season, spring (April to early June) or autumn (mid-September to the start of November). For something different, consider visiting Turkey in winter , when snow covers Istanbul and the city’s charm-o-metre is off the charts.

Take note of the dates for the Holy Month of Ramadan (usually around March-April-May, but it changes every year), which influences the way the city operates.

2. You need at least three days to do Istanbul justice

However many days you give yourself in Istanbul, it will never be enough. You will always feel like you short-changed yourself – there’s always one more neighbourhood to explore, one more ferry trip to take, one more museum to visit, one more restaurant to try…

Three days is the bare minimum for a first-time visitor, but you could easily stay for a week or more.

I recently spent 10 days in Istanbul and found it was a good amount of time to see the city at a relaxed pace. I stayed in the centre for that entire time, though I did have a few ‘down’ days to work. There are dozens of day trip opportunities to break things up if the city gets to be too much.

One of the highlights of Istanbul is the food, so you’d do well to measure the duration of your stay in meals eaten rather than nights slept! Six square meals (and a couple of ‘spread breakfasts’) is ideal for indulging in the best of Istanbul’s food scene .

Plan your time with my 4-day Istanbul itinerary , which covers the must-sees and a few local gems.

3. Save time (and maybe money) by applying for an e-visa

Most nationalities require a tourist visa to enter Türkiye. The country’s e-visa scheme, which launched in 2013, is available to citizens of 40+ countries, including the States, Australia and Canada. (EU citizens do not need a visa.) A standard multiple-entry visa is valid for a stay of up to 90 days with 180 days validity from the date of issue.

Visa on arrival (VOA) is also available, but if you’re flying in, it requires queueing at the airport – and because of the high volume of flights arriving at IST particularly, it can be a long wait. For some nationalities, it’s also more expensive – 10 USD dearer on average compared to the e-visa according to the official fees (though for US passport holders, VOA is cheaper).

Applying for a Turkish e-visa requires completing a simple online form. The website has English-language support and international card payment, but be warned that sometimes it’s a bit glitchy. Both times I’ve applied, my visa has landed in my inbox almost instantly (within the hour). Be sure to print off the A4 piece of paper to show at immigration.

There are copycat sites out there – the official e-visa portal is located here .

I have never been asked for proof of onward travel or a hotel reservation when entering Turkey. If you want one or both for peace of mind without making an actual booking, then I suggest using OneWayFly .

4. Travel insurance is a must

Travel insurance is mandatory for all foreign visitors to Turkey. Again, you might not be asked to show proof of insurance if you’re travelling on an e-visa (I haven’t), but rules are rules nonetheless.

Istanbul is generally regarded as a safe city, but pickpocketing and crime do occur. More importantly, local health care can be expensive, so it pays to be covered in case of accident or unexpected illness.

For single-policy or annual trip insurance, I recommend HeyMondo. Get 5% off your policy when you sign up using this link .

Read up on these Istanbul safety tips before you go.

5. Use the Havabus (Havaist) shuttle to travel to/from the airport

Update: Since publishing this guide, both Istanbul airports now have an underground metro service. I would definitely look into this option – avoiding traffic could be a real time-saver. Here are more details .

Havabus is a terrific service for travelling between Istanbul’s airports (yes, there is more than one – see the next point) and the downtown area. Shuttles operate 24/7, with departures in both directions every 30-60 minutes.

Tip: At Sabiha Gokcen airport, the shuttle is called Havabus and at Istanbul Airport, it’s called Havaist. I have used both – they operate in much the same way, but they have separate websites for checking the schedule ( here for Havabus and here for Havaist).

When you land in Istanbul, look for the airport bus signage. At Sabiha Gokcen, the bus stand is located on the other side of the car park directly in front of the arrivals terminal. Tickets are purchased using cash on the bus and cost 37.50 TRY (around 2 USD) per person to go to Taksim.

If you prefer a private transfer, airport cars are very well priced (from $27 to/from either airport). Pre-book a door-to-door airport transfer online here .

Eventually the Istanbul metro will extend to IST Airport, but the line has not been completed yet.

6. There are multiple airports in Istanbul – don’t front up at the wrong one!

Istanbul Airport (IST) is the city’s largest and busiest international airport. Located on the European side in Arnavutkoy, 40km / 45 minutes’ drive from Taksim Square, it is sometimes referred to as ‘Istanbul Grand Airport’ or IGA. If you’re flying with Turkish Airlines or from Europe, there’s a high chance you will be landing at IST.

A second airport, Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (SAW), receives flights from the Middle East (Emirates, Qatar ) as well as Turkey’s own Pegasus Airlines. It is located on the Asian side, 40km / 60 minutes’ drive from Taksim Square.

A third airport, Ataturk Airport, closed in 2019.

The two airports are 80km apart and it takes at least 75-90 minutes to travel between them. There are shuttle buses, but if you show up at the wrong one for your flight, there’s a good chance you’ll be left high and dry. Triple-check your reservation and make sure you show up at the correct airport.

We got caught out with this on our first trip and rolled up at the wrong airport for our flight back to Australia. Luckily we had come a day early with the intention of staying the night at the airport hotel, so we still made our flight.

You can use Havabus/Havaist to get back to the airport from the city, too. Buses depart from Taksim Square. Take the metro to Taksim and follow the exit towards Taksim Gezi Park. From there, the station is a short walk (you will see the coaches waiting and two ticket booths on the footpath).

Buses to both airports depart from the same area, so again, triple-check you’re hopping on the right one!

7. Pre-book your accommodation

Hotel platform Booking.com doesn’t work in Turkey, so if this is your preferred way to find accommodation, you’ll need to do your browsing and booking before you arrive. (This can be overcome by using a VPN of course.)

Pre-booking is essential for peak-period travel as properties do fill up and prices can skyrocket for last-minute reservations.

I normally use Airbnb in Istanbul for the simple reason that I prefer to stay in local neighbourhoods. Sisli is my district of choice: It has great access to public transport, fantastic local restaurants, and a more relaxed vibe.

8. Card is widely accepted, but it helps to carry cash

Ninety-nine percent of venues and shops in Istanbul accept credit/debit cards, including Visa and Mastercard, as well as contactless pay. For small markets and convenience stores, local restaurants, bars and taxis – and when dipping into the wonderful world of Istanbul street food – you’ll need cash.

Many smaller shops in Turkey have a primary limit set on card purchases, meaning you need to meet a certain threshold if you want to pay with a card. In these instances, cash is necessary. Small bills also come in handy for tipping (more on that later).

I suggest withdrawing cash when you first arrive and reserving it for smaller purchases and tips. Check out my Istanbul Travel Budget to learn more about budgeting for your trip and the cost of common items and services.

9. Most ATMs in Turkey charge a fee

ATMs are ubiquitous in Istanbul and most of the time, you’ll see half a dozen different cash machines clustered together. Majority charge a withdrawal fee – up to 5% for some banks – and have a transaction limit of between 3000-5000 TRY.

The only no-fee ATM we could find was Ziraat Bank. It’s red with a distinctive wheatear logo. We also used HalkBank, which did not charge us a withdrawal fee, but did hit us with a 13 TRY fee on Wise.

Banks change their fee structure regularly, so you might need to experiment with a few different machines. If the bank does charge a fee – either a flat fee or a percentage – this should always be displayed on the screen before you finalise the transaction.

On our first trip to Turkey, we had issues with our Australian bank cards not being accepted. This time around, I used my Wise card without any issues. I found the best method for withdrawing cash was to exchange stored currency to Turkish lira within the Wise app, then withdraw lira from the ATM.

Wise is great for international travel and offers very competitive exchange rates – if you don’t yet have an account, you can sign up here .

10. Buying a SIM card in Istanbul is easy, but your options are limited

Open WIFI is not readily accessible in Istanbul, which makes buying a local SIM card more or less a necessity.

If you’re not a Turkish citizen and you don’t hold a residency permit, you’ll find you have limited options when it comes to buying a SIM. Low-cost packages are not available to foreigners and most telcos only offer one standard tourist package.

After doing a bit of research, we settled on a Vodafone SIM. Vodafone only has one option for tourists, which includes 20GB of data, calls and texts, and unlimited access to Whatsapp. We paid 350 TRY (around 19 USD).

The process of buying a SIM is very straightforward and only took us about 15 minutes. You need a hard copy of your passport for registration, so make sure you’re carrying it with you. The tourist SIM automatically expires after 60 days.

11. The public transport system is phenomenal

If you’re considering hiring a car in Turkey to continue your travels beyond the city, make sure you pick it up on the outskirts of the city (possible when using a company such as Local Rent ). The traffic is maniacal and I would not recommend driving in the city centre.

There’s no reason to drive a car in Istanbul, anyway: The public transport system is affordable, easy to use and reliable. Between the metro, trams, buses, ferries, and my personal favourite, dolmus vans, you can get anywhere you need to go with ease. Google Maps works well for planning your route.

Dolmus minivans – Turkey’s answer to a marshrutka – are a fun experience. The name literally means ‘stuffed’ because passengers are squeezed in like sardines. Keep in mind that the entire transport network is very busy and squishy during peak hour, especially in the morning between about 8-9.30am.

When boarding a bus in Istanbul, enter through the front door and tap your IstanbulKart on the electronic reader. If the bus is very full, you can board through the back doors and pass your card down the line for someone at the front to swipe.

12. You need an IstanbulKart transport pass

On our first trip to Istanbul, we walked a lot and relied on buying single-journey metro tickets for longer trips. This time around, we re-learned that only certain ticket machines inside the metro dispense single tickets – and usually they are the ones with an obnoxiously long line of people.

An IstanbulKart is an essential purchase if you plan to use public transport. There are several different cards available – all are valid for the metro, buses, trams and ferries. The so-called Anonymous IstanbulKart is recommended for tourists and is sold at kiosks and newsstands and inside metro stations for 50 TRY (non-refundable). You can use one card for multiple people (up to five people).

A single IstanbulKart fare costs 7.67 TRY. Compared to the 15 TRY for a single-journey ticket, you’ll end up saving almost 50% on every trip.

Note that metrobus fares vary according to the number of stops travelled, but metro fares are flat. Transfers are charged at 5.49 TRY for the first transfer and 4.17 TRY for the second leg.

Find more information about the public transport system here .

13. Use an app for taxis in Istanbul

Istanbul’s cab system is similarly well organised, with three types of taxis at different price points. Yellow taxis are standard and have the lowest fares (6.3 TL/km plus a switch-on fee of 9.8 TL). Turquoise taxis are a premium service and cost 20% more, while black taxis (always luxury vehicles) are twice as expensive as yellow taxis.

Taxis are metered, so it’s generally considered safe for a tourist to hail a cab on the street. However, scams do happen , which is one of the reasons most people (including many locals) prefer to use an app.

After numerous legal battles, Uber re-launched in Turkey in 2021. We used it on several occasions and found the service to be good – short wait times, friendly drivers, and competitive fares (we always paid in cash rather than hooking up our credit card – make sure you are carrying small bills).

Uber alternatives include BiTaksi and Itaksi. The former has POS contactless payment, which is great for paying by card.

14. Tipping is standard

Tipping is customary in Turkey, with 10% being the standard mark for restaurants and bars. For taxi drivers, it’s normal to round up to the nearest lira when paying in cash.

Of course you should only tip if you’re satisfied with the service. We found the quality of customer service in Istanbul to be pretty good across the board, with the exception of one chain cafe where we had a terrible experience.

Tipping is slightly higher for other service providers: 10-20% goes to your tellak or natir at the Turkish baths, and to your hairdresser or barber.

15. Can you drink the tap water in Istanbul?

This is a rhetorical question, because I’m still not sure what the correct answer is! Locals will warn you off tap water while at the same time, the government is running campaigns to encourage more people to drink from the faucet.

From what I understand, Istanbul tap water was undrinkable a decade ago. Infrastructure improvements (and the addition of chlorine to the water stream) have made tap water safe to drink, but many people still prefer to drink bottled water.

If the building you’re staying in has old, rusty pipes, it might be best to give tap water a wide berth. Try a small quantity and see how it sits with you.

16. Don’t flush your loo paper

Istanbul’s pipes are a bit sensitive, thus most restaurants, cafes and hotels request you place toilet tissue in a bin rather than flushing it down the loo. If this is the case, you’ll likely see a sign and a strategically placed wastepaper bin. If in doubt, don’t flush it.

17. If you need a bathroom, head to the nearest mosque

After chasing after non-existent bathrooms in malls and metro stations, I finally cottoned onto this little Istanbul tip: There are public toilets attached to most mosques and in my experience, they are almost always cleaner than public bathrooms elsewhere. Pan toilets are common. Men’s rooms are marked with bay , and women’s with bayan .

Some bathrooms are free to use, while others charge a small (1-2 TRY) fee. Another good reason to carry some small bills or coins with you.

18. Sip ayran to keep your tummy happy

Ayran is a savoury yogurt drink that has its roots in Turkey, but is popular around the region (I developed my ayran addiction several years ago in Bosnia and Herzegovina and have been sipping it ever since). It’s not too creamy, not too watery, and has just a hint of salty effervescence.

Because it’s yogurt, it’s full of good bacteria that do wonders to keep your gut in balance. Just as you might drink lassis in India, you can drink ayran in Istanbul to help ward off any potential food or water-related bugs.

Food poisoning definitely does occur in Istanbul, so watch what you eat and try to consume street food earlier in the day when it’s fresher (especially fish wraps and seafood).

People drink ayran with breakfast, lunch or dinner, and it is served at virtually every restaurant in Istanbul – either in little plastic tubs or from a fountain. Always go for the fresh option when it’s available: It’s light and aerated and extra delicious, presented with a big scoop of yogurty foam on top.

19. Drinking is common, but alcohol is not ubiquitous

The most popular alcoholic drinks in Istanbul are beer, wine and raki , a powerful spirit distilled from grapes or other fruits. Not all restaurants serve alcohol, however, and when you make your way over to the Asian side of Istanbul (which is noticeably more conservative), you’ll find that only a handful of establishments are licensed.

If you prefer to BYO, tekels are Istanbul’s answer to bottle shops. They normally sell a selection of local bottled beers and Turkish wines along with soft drinks, snack foods and cigarettes. It’s illegal to sell alcohol within 100 metres of a mosque or a school, so you won’t find any tekels in some neighbourhoods.

Sales are restricted to certain times of day – you cannot purchase drinks from a bottle shop between 10am and 6am (there are no restrictions on restaurants and bars, though). Alcohol is served as normal during Ramadan.

Excessive drinking is taboo in Turkish culture. Raki, the national drink, is a social beverage consumed slowly with food. It has aniseed notes and is sometimes served over water and ice, which gives it a milky colour.

If you want to try raki, head to a meyhane (meze bar), where alcohol is served with small places of food (also see point #26 on this list). You can order a small 350 mL bottle or a shot (~40 mL). Start slow – some rakis are 80-90 proof.

20. English is widely spoken (sort of)

The number of Turkish people who speak English is somewhere between 15-20% . Of course the rate is much higher in Istanbul, but still, English is not as widespread as you might imagine.

We found a bit of a paradox here: In big shops and phone stores, very little English was spoken, while we encountered staff who spoke perfect English in small restaurants and humble bakeries.

The bottom line is that it’s a bit of a mixed bag, so be prepared to sign and mime your way through some situations. Of course it helps to have some simple Turkish under your belt – knowing a few basic phrases can help to smooth things over.

Istanbul quirks to know before you go

Here are a few unusual quirks that tripped us up in Istanbul.

21. Pharmacies are hard to find

Turkey differentiates between ‘pharmacies’ and ‘cosmetic stores’ in a way that I’ve not noticed in any other country. The latter sells beauty and health products, but there is no pharmacist on staff and nowhere to buy over-the-counter medications or prescription meds.

Chains such as Watsons, Rossmann and Gratis are classified as ‘cosmetics stores’. If you need anything more serious than paracetamol or a revitalising face mask, you need a pharmacy or eczane .

Eczanesi are more difficult to come by. That’s because there are no chain pharmacies in Turkey. All pharmacies are small and owner-operated by a pharmacist – essentially mom-and-pop shops. You won’t find them in malls, only on the streets. Look for the ‘eczanesi’ sign in the window, and when using Google Maps, search for ‘eczane’ rather than ‘pharmacy’.

Pharmacies are worth hunting down if you need them: Many medicines are freely available in Turkey without a prescription, and prices are almost always cheaper than elsewhere in Europe. You do have to ask around, though, as every pharmacy has different stock and different generic brands. My partner spent several days searching for his medication and after asking at a dozen eczanesi, he finally found what he was looking for at a quarter of the price it is in Georgia.

22. Hand cologne is a thing

Istanbulites were sanitising their hands long before it was cool. The first time we had our hands doused in hand cologne by a friendly waiter, we assumed it was hand sanitiser – but no, this tradition far predates the pandemic.

Kolonya harks back to the days of the Ottoman Empire when a pleasant smelling liquid was sprinkled on guests’ hands as they would enter or exit private homes, hotels or hospitals. Today it’s widely used in restaurants after you pay the check. Some places have a little bottle on the table next to the salt and pepper shakers.

Scented with jasmine, lemon, rosewater or dark spice, a dash of hand cologne leaves your paws smelling fragrant fresh. Unlike hand gel, kolonya is very thin and watery – a little bit goes a long way. And because it’s ethanol-based, it does act as a disinfectant as well.

23. Don’t be surprised if you get asked for your phone number

Grocery stores, cosmetic stores, clothing shops and pharmacies alike seem to ask customers for a local phone number – I assume for marketing purposes rather than to track or register anything. This happened to us on a daily basis, and the first few times, the language barrier made it very confusing.

If you don’t have a local SIM (and even if you do), you can always say no and the cashier will copy a random number off the back of an old receipt.

24. Don’t stay too close to a mosque if you like to sleep in

Istanbul has its own backing track, and that is the sound of the call to prayer ( ezan ). The rumble of minarets whispering to each other is incredibly stirring – but your opinion might be slightly different if you happen to be laying your head near a mosque’s speakerbox every night.

The call to prayer happens five times a day, starting with the pre-dawn İmsak ( Fajr ), which reverberates around the city some time between 4-6am depending on the time of year. In July, it can be as early as 3.30am, with a second Sunrise ( Güneş ) call around 2 hours later.

With well over 3,000 mosques, you’ll more than likely have at least one or two nearby. If you’re a light sleeper, it’s worth scoping out the local mosques and choosing accommodation that’s further than earshot from the nearest minaret.

25. Don’t linger too long at a lokanta

Lokanta are a specific type of Turkish restaurant that serve casual, home-style meals to workers and tradesmen. Every neighbourhood has them, and they are a terrific place to sample salt-of-the-earth Turkish cuisine and soak up a bit of local culture at the same time.

When you sit down at a lokanta, a waiter will come to take your order within seconds. Some are cafeteria style, others are a-la-carte. At the end of the meal, empty plates are spirited away and the table sprayed and wiped just as fast as the food came out. Usually you settle the bill at a cash desk rather than requesting a written check.

It’s easy to overstay your welcome at this type of establishment, where the imperative is to turn tables as quickly as possible. They are perfect when you need a quick bite, but if you want a leisurely meal, choose a different sort of restaurant. Sidewalk meyhanes , for example, are the complete opposite. Serving meze and raki, they are designed for long, lingering lunches.

26. Don’t assume those meze plates are free

It’s normal for wait staff at a meyhane to present you with an attractive tray of small plates before they take your order. Turkish meze includes grilled eggplant with yogurt, fava beans, artichoke, and many, many more delicious bites designed for sharing over a bottle of raki.

Don’t make the mistake of assuming these small side salads are free – they are not. (Sides of chopped onion, herbs and chilli served in smaller silver dishes with kebab, on the other hand, are usually included in the price.)

27. Brace yourself for lots of uphill walking

They don’t call Istanbul the ‘City on Seven Hills’ for nothing. After a few days walking the streets, you might think the ‘city of seven million hills’ is a more apt nickname.

Constantinople was laid out in the image of Rome, which was of course built over a septet of hills. On the ground, it feels like all of Istanbul is rippled, with steep streets and vertiginous staircases at almost every turn. There are many advantages to this city plan, the delightfully sloped houses in Balat for one, and the spectacular city views you get from the higher elevations for another.

Comfy shoes and a whole lot of patience are absolutely essential when exploring Istanbul on foot, where it can literally feel like an uphill battle to get from one place to the next.

There are ways to avoid the slog, including using the funicular railways: Taksim-Kabatas and the historic Tunel that links Karakoy and Beyoglu. The latter is the world’s second-oldest subterranean rail line (after the London Underground) and the oldest still-operating underground funicular in Europe.

Istanbul travel tips to feel like a local

While it takes more than a three or four-day stay to feel like a fully fledged Istanbulite, here are a few little tricks to help you fit in.

28. Dress modestly to blend in

Istanbul is a metropolis through and through, with a liberal dress code to match. Almost anything goes, but I still recommend you cover up for comfort and to fit in with the crowd. Women should try to avoid plunging necklines, revealing fabrics, and very short hemlines.

There are noticeable differences between the European and Asian sides of Istanbul, with more modest dress and more hijabs worn in Uskudar compared to Eminonu, for example. Generally speaking, Turkey gets more conservative the further east you go, and this holds true even in the city centre. Keep it in mind if you’re travelling around the country.

One place you definitely must observe the dress code is mosques, where covered arms (to the elbow for men or the wrist for women) and legs (down to the ankles) is required. Women must also cover their hair. Majority of mosques have pull-over muumuus that you can borrow (for free) at the door to fully cover up. Note that there are no dress requirements for young kids.

It’s obligatory to remove your shoes when entering a mosque, so on days when you’re sightseeing, wear kicks that you can easily slip off and on. And if you prefer not to go barefoot, carry a pair of ankle socks in the bottom of your bag. Some mosques provide plastic bags, otherwise you can just leave your shoes outside.

29. Never skip breakfast…

Breakfast is certainly the most important meal of the day in Turkey. Sunday breakfast is the queen of the morning meals, when the famous kahvalti tabagi ‘spread breakfast’ comes into its own.

On a Sunday, some Istanbulites spend the better part of the day between mid-morning and late afternoon gathered around the breakfast table with friends or family, noshing on an extravagant spread of cheeses, olives, cut vegetables and eggs served with supple somun bread. Kahvalti is a daily occurrence in places like Besiktast ‘Breakfast Street’ and in gourmet cafes such as Van Kahvalti.

If you’re on a tight timeline or a budget, breakfast doesn’t have to be drawn-out or expensive: There are faster and more affordable options, such as a pick-and-choose breakfast at Cakmak Kahvalti Salonu, where small plates range from 2-8 TRY each. 

Borekcisi (borek bakeries) serve portions of steaming hot filled pastry and chai, or for a simple breakfast snack on the go, grab a simit bagel from a street vendor.

30. …But don’t order coffee first thing

Kahvalti means ‘before coffee’. Breakfast is traditionally accompanied by cay , strong black tea, rather than Turkish coffee. It’s normal to down half a dozen glasses of tea in a single sitting (though two or three is usually enough). Most sit-down kahvalti breakfasts come with two pots of tea.

If you want to do things like a local, save your Türk kahvesi for after lunch and start your morning with cay sade – strong and bitter tea with no sugar – instead.

31. Don’t be afraid to haggle at the bazaar

Haggling is customary and expected at markets in Istanbul and in other commercial settings. You’ll find that most items at the Grand Bazaar or Spice Bazaar have a price tag, but for those that don’t (and even for those that do), it’s quite normal to bargain for a better price. This is especially true if you’re buying more than one of something or multiple items from the same vendor. Rule of thumb is to aim for a 35-50% discount on the sticker price.

There are huge mark-ups at the Grand Bazaar, which seems to be almost exclusively the domain of tourists these days. There are local markets and street markets all over Istanbul where you’ll have a better chance of striking gold for a fair figure. Markets are held on different days of the week and following a rotating schedule, so you can always find something on. Popular food and flea markets take place in Karakoy (Tuesdays), Ortakoy (Thursdays), Uskudar (Fridays), and Besiktas (Saturdays).

If you do decide to brave the Grand Bazaar or another historic market in Istanbul, the best advice I’ve heard is to do your shopping in the mid-morning. It’s more likely that vendors have already made a few sales and met their daily commission targets, so there will be less pressure on you.

32. Don’t fall for the ‘shoe cleaner trick’

This one got us good.

One early morning we were walking down an alleyway in Besiktas when we heard a clack on the cobbles and noticed that someone had dropped a wooden shoe brush. Being the saint he is, my partner rushed to pick it up without a second thought and handed it back to the shoe cleaner whose caddy it had tumbled from.

Expressing his profound thanks, the guy promptly took a seat on the curb at our feet and insisted on shaking my husband’s hand in gratitude. That’s when he grabbed him by the wrist in a monkey grip and tried to pull him down for a coerced shoe cleaning. I should mention that he was wearing joggers, not leather shoes!

Neither of us were aware of this common scam at the time, so we thought the whole situation was quite hilarious. The man had a gorgeous smile and was very friendly – we actually gave him credit for this ingenious trick.

Only later when we heard about the scam did we realise what had (almost) happened to us. Ross managed to talk his way out of it, dirty shoes still intact.

We were not mad in the slightest, but it could have been a different story had we actually been talked into handing over cash. Keep an eye out for this trick, especially in touristy areas.

33. Embrace cat culture

There are up to a million cats and kittens living on the streets of Istanbul. Every cafe is a cat cafe, and every corner has its own posse of cute pusses. A picture-perfect clowder of cats lounging on fence posts and chairs like the princes and princesses they are awaits you at every turn.

Similar to street dogs in Georgia , the cats of Istanbul are regarded as community pets rather than strays and are fed and cared for by the locals. For the most part, they don’t bother people and keep to themselves. We definitely encountered a few fiercer felines on our travels – it’s pretty obvious which cats want pats and which ones need their personal space. They will let you know with a dagger stare or a hiss.

Cat culture can be traced back to Ottoman times, when tabbys helped to quash the city’s mice population. In this respect, cats are an inseparable part of the city’s social fabric.

If you’re an animal lover, it can be distressing to see so many cats living rough, especially when they’re not in the best shape. (Though I must say that every cat I met in Istanbul was plump and rosy.) It helps to know that Istanbul (and all of Turkey) has a no-kill, no capture policy.

34. Brush up on your basic hammam etiquette

Partaking in a traditional Turkish bath is a must-do in Istanbul. The hammams have aeons of history and custom attached to them – there are definite dos and don’ts, just as there are with the sulfur baths in Tbilisi . It helps to know how to handle things once the towels come out, lest you embarrass yourself.

Regarding nakedness, men normally strip down to nothing while women wear undies (single-use pairs are supplied by most bathhouses) then don a pestemal towel, which stays wrapped around you for the duration of your stay.

The Turkish-style skin peel/massage ( kese ) can be quite rough on the skin and muscles. The therapist, known as a natir or tellak , will always be of the same gender. It’s customary to tip them 10-20% after your treatment.

For more Turkish hammam hints, see this guide .

More helpful Istanbul tips to make the most of your visit

Finally, here are a handful of practical tips for planning your itinerary and getting the most out of your time in Istanbul.

35. Organise your Istanbul itinerary by neighbourhood/district

Istanbul has 39 districts, each with its own character and appeal. From the Instagrammable houses and antique shops in Balat, to the trendy cafes in Cihangir, the rambunctious fish market in Uskudar to the Ottoman-era mansions in Arnavutkoy , every corner of the city has something incredible up its sleeve.

A great way to organise your time in Istanbul is by planning your movements around the different neighbourhoods. Each one is quite discreet, so you can knock out a to-do list before moving onto the next.

Some neighbourhoods naturally pair together thanks to geography and transport logistics: Galata and Karakoy, Fener and Balat, Uskudar and Kadikoy, Cihangir and Cukurcuma. See my Istanbul 4-day itinerary for more ideas on how to plan your visit by district.

38. Consider signing up for a food tour

One thing every Istanbul neighbourhood has in common is its never-ending supply of cafes, restaurants and street food vendors. One of the best ways to discover the city – especially if you’re on a tight timeline – is by signing up for a food tour.

I was lucky enough to join Culinary Backstreets’ Born on the Bosphorus tour during my most recent visit to Istanbul. It was one of the highlights of my trip – not only because of the delicious food, but mainly thanks to our incredible guide, Benoit, who over the course of a full day taught me so much about Istanbul’s food and beyond.

The popular Taste of Two Continents tour, with 11 food stops and a Bosphorus ferry crossing, is a good alternative if you’re looking for a half-day experience.

37. Get an early start to beat the crowds

This is particularly important in summer, when the touristy parts of the city get extremely crowded. One of the best ways to avoid long waits at landmarks such as Galata Tower is by waking up early and arriving as doors open.

The metro starts running at 6am – and from Friday evening to Sunday morning public transport operates 24/7 – so there’s no excuse not to get out in the early AM.

38. Invest in a Museum Pass or Istanbul E-Pass

There is a gamut of different tourist cards and passes available for Istanbul. The 5-day Istanbul Museum Pass or the 2-7 day E-Pass is one of the best investments you can make if you plan on doing the rounds through the city’s best museums and big attractions.

The digital pass gives you skip-the-queue access to 10 of the city’s finest cultural institutions, including Galata Tower, Topkapi Palace and the Harem, the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, and the Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum.

Available to purchase online before you arrive, it uses a simple QR code system. Just show your pass on your mobile – no need to print anything.

Only buy the pass if it makes sense for you, though: You have to visit multiple attractions for it to pay off, though the other perks – particularly the ability to skip the ticket line – are invaluable in a sense.

Purchase the official Istanbul E-Pass here via Viator .

39. Check prayer times in advance

The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are both active mosques, open to visitors 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Except during prayer times, that is.

All of Istanbul’s mosques temporarily close to non-Muslim visitors five times a day for a period of about 90 minutes. For the duration of the Congregational Prayers, no tourists are permitted to enter.

It’s imperative to check prayer times in advance. If you show up while prayers are on, you will be met with a long wait outside. Times are signposted at the bigger mosques or you can check online .

The queue to enter the Hagia Sophia gets very long towards the end of the prayer session. The best time to visit is 30-40 minutes before the mosque is scheduled to close. Don’t try to visit on Fridays when the Jumu’ah prayer takes place – this is one of the busiest times, and it’s always crowded and chaotic.

If your Istanbul visit coincides with Ramadan or another Islamic holiday, prayer times might be different and mosques might be closed for longer periods during the day.

40. Skip the Bosphorus cruise – take advantage of local ferries instead

Some people opt to experience the Bosphorus on board a yacht at sunset with champagne and nibbles. If your budget won’t stretch that far, or you just prefer a local experience, then a ride on the public ferry offers the same ambiance and water views for a fraction of the price.

Hundreds of ferries criss-cross the strait, linking Istanbul’s Asian and European sides. The most scenic ferry routes include Besiktas to Kadikoy, Karakoy to Uskudar, and Karakoy to Kadikoy. Some boats go up the Bosphorus towards the Black Sea, and others head in the opposite direction towards the Princes’ Islands.

Bring a simit bagel to snack on (and to lure seagulls in for photos), or order a tulip-shaped glass of tea from one of the roving vendors on board.

41. Don’t miss the sunset from Galata Bridge

There is only one way to end a day in Istanbul in my opinion, and that’s by watching the sun go down from Galata Bridge. It might be touristy as heck, but there’s a good reason why this is such a popular spot. Views of the glittering water and intertwining boats, mosque minarets silhouetted against a dusky blue sky framed by fishermen casting their lines off the edge of the bridge, are absolute gold.

I recommend finding a spot to stand on the western side of the bridge, above the area where the Karakoy ferry docks. Aim to arrive about an hour before sunset for the best light.

For the perfect Istanbul photo, wait patiently for the garbage truck to come down the street and dump its load in the bins near the ferry terminal – this sends the seagulls into a frenzy, and they fill the skies with their spinning and diving for a good 15 minutes.

42. ‘Authentic’ Whirling Dervish ceremonies still exist – here’s how to find one

Speaking of Istanbul must-dos: A Whirling Dervish show is a bucket-list item for many. I was warned that all Mevlevi Sema ceremonies had become commercialised and ‘spoiled’ by tourists to the point where they just weren’t worth pursuing any more. So I made it my mission to find a real, ‘authentic’ Sema ritual in Istanbul, and I’m happy to say that I eventually did.

Get all the details about the best Whirling Dervish ceremony in Istanbul in this guide .

Where to stay in Istanbul

Budget: Hostel Le Banc (⭐ 9.5) – This popular hostel in Beyoglu is footsteps from the Galata Tower and Sishane metro station. It features air-conditioned rooms (private doubles and mixed/all-female 4 and 10-bed dorms), a shared lounge and a terrace.

Mid-range: 38 Hotel (⭐ 8.6) – Located in Sisli, close to Osmanbey metro station, this hotel has compact, tidy double rooms and suites.

Boutique: Hotel Empress Zoe (⭐ 9.2) – This gorgeous boutique hotel is decorated with heritage flourishes and boasts hammam-like ensuites and private internal terraces. The location in Fatih, minutes from Sultan Ahmet Mosque and the Blue Mosque, is very central yet the hotel still feels secluded.

Luxury: Ecole St. Pierre Hotel (⭐ 9.5) – Located in Beyoglu close to Galata Tower, this boutique-luxury hotel offers high-end suites with private courtyards and terraces. The building, an old Italian Dominican school with remnants of the 13th-century Galata walls inside its courtyard, is dripping with history.

Turkey essentials

Here are some of the websites and services I recommend for planning a trip to Turkey. Remember to check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.

FLIGHTS: Find affordable flights to Turkey using the Skyscanner website .

VISAS: Use iVisa to check if you need a tourist visa for Turkey and apply for an expedited visa online.

DOCUMENTATION: Use OneWayFly to obtain proof of onward travel/hotel reservation for your visa application.

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip to Turkey with HeyMondo , my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance.

CAR HIRE: Use the Local Rent platform to hire a car from a local agent. Prices start from as little as 18€ per day.

ACCOMMODATION: Find the best Turkey hotel deals on Booking.com .

CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: Browse the Viator website to find the best itineraries and prices for Istanbul food tours, Cappadocia balloon rides and more!

More Istanbul travel resources

• 1-4 day Istanbul itinerary
• Istanbul travel budget
• The ultimate guide to eating out in Istanbul
• Tips for visiting Galata Tower for Istanbul city views
• The best Whirling Dervishes ceremony in Istanbul
• Guide to Arnavutkoy, Istanbul’s most beautiful district
• The best places to visit in Turkey
• Turkey in winter: Where to go plus travel tips

12 Comments

Detailed tips are super helpful, especially about the best time to visit and the ins and outs of public transport.

Thank you. Right now in Turkey with wife and kids. Following your steps and recommendations. Just one thing: booking asked for a price but the hotel converted the price to Liras and charged me much more for exactly the same booking and service! Thank you again,

I love your travel blog! Your vivid descriptions and stunning photographs make me feel like I’m right there with you. It’s inspiring to see someone embracing adventure and exploring new cultures. Keep the travel stories coming!

Excellent article and links for further information. I am planning a trip to Turkey in September with my wife and your articles a great start and support. Great job! Alejandro

This is very, very helpful. Thank you so much.

Early in your article you indicated that Booking.com does not work in Turkey, yet in the section, entitled “Turkey Essentials”, you direct us to that site for Hotels. Maybe I am missing something, but that appears to be contradictory. I found the article very helpful…..Thanks for the information.

Hi JB – I still recommend using Booking, only you have to reserve from outside of Turkey ie. before you arrive.

Thanks so much, this was really helpful. Lots of good to know stuff that I didn’t find mentioned elsewhere

it was very helpful thank you

Ha, I made the same mistake again and didn’t read through your info thoroughly. In Georgia, I paid more than I needed to for a SIM at the airport and this time, I could have saved a few lira on a bank withdrawal in Istanbul.

Already appreciating the smiles and kindness in Istanbul very much.

Love your work Emily.

Perhaps it’s different for Australian passport holders, but I found the VOA to be a better deal than the eVisa for Americans. Our eVisas were fast and easy to get, but cost $50 plus a 2 dollar service fee. We got them before traveling to Turkey last year, but went twice to make them a better value. This past month we got VOA (no lines) and paid 25 euros each. Both are valid for 6 months. Plus you get a little visa stamp in your passport!

Thanks Owen for the info – you’re right, VOA is more affordable for US passport holders, but not for us Aussies unfortunately! I would have loved a visa stamp. I’ll update that now. Cheers!

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Where to Stay, Eat, and Play in Istanbul

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Istanbul is a cosmopolis unlike any other—where the remains of former empires, the cultural influences of multi-ethnic communities, and contemporary Turkish identity all exist in delicate harmony. The Turkish megacity, continues to grow with new restaurants, boutique hotels, designer shops, and contemporary art galleries sprouting up in trending neighborhoods on both sides of the strait. Here are the essential things to do in Istanbul, from the traditional to the contemporary and experimental.

All listings featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you book something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

An egg and beef pastrami dish at TURK

The interior dining area at TURK

Where to eat

A nucleus of gastronomy representative of the endless recipes and traditions of Turkey’s many regions, this is also a palatal playground for celebrity chefs who are redefining Turkish cuisine with a modern verve, inclusive of wine lists that celebrate the newly sprouting boutique vineyards all over the country. A consistently excellent venue for lunch or dinner, locals love to dine on modern interpretations of classic Turkish dishes at Yeni Lokanta , especially the mantı (dumplings filled with meat) which has become rather famous in its own right.

For a more experimental take on the new Turkish kitchen, the tasting menu at TURK is a fascinating journey through Anatolia and its history told through creative dishes that look like works of art. More edible art can be experienced inside the former Ottoman Bank, where Neolokal looks out over the Old City, serving creative dishes inspired by tradition as well as one of the city’s most comprehensive Turkish wine lists.

For the classic rakı, meze, and fresh fish fare that is synonymous with Istanbul, reserve a table at Kıyı , a local institution known for bidding the highest price for the freshest catch at the fish markets. Go to Mahir Lokantası if you’re looking for a no-frills eatery with a daily spread of excellent home-cooked Anatolian dishes and desserts, as well as lahmacun (thin crispy dough with minced meat and herbs) and pide (flatbread loaded with different toppings) fresh from the wood-fired oven upon order.

If you’ve spent a day perusing the sights in Sultanahmet, skip all the touristy restaurants and head to Lokanta 1741 for beyond-par Turkish food served on a lovely terrace with its own cocktail bar. If you’ve ventured to the Asian side of the city to the trendy Moda neighborhood, make sure to try Turkish street food staples reinterpreted by two former fine dining chefs at Basta Street Food Bar , or more experimental recipes accompanied by wine at their newly opened venue, Basta Neobistro .

If you’re in need of a coffee break accompanied by something sweet or savory, spend some time at the minimalist Casa Cooklife , which also publishes an eponymous slow-living magazine. In the evening, get a thorough introduction to the world of Turkish wines at Foxy Nişantaşı , currently the city’s coolest wine bar. As for craft cocktails that interpret local ingredients and culture in a coupe glass, make sure to drop by Fahri Konsolos , touted as the city’s best cocktail bar.

Kolon, a 2010 piece by Sergiden Yerleştirme Görüntüsü, at the ARTER Museum

Darts target boards and arrows by Jacob Dahlgren at the ARTER Museum

No Istanbul experience would be complete without first getting thoroughly cleansed and rejuvenated at a Turkish hammam. Two of the very best Turkish baths are the beautifully renovated and modern Kılıç Alı Paşa Hamamı , and the smaller and more private Çukurcuma Hamamı with its flawless marble interior.

If you’ve already taken in the major sights in Sultanahmet, take some time to stroll through the city’s lesser known but equally significant museums. Admire the precious collection of objects from early Anatolian civilizations and the Ottoman Empire in the private Sadberk Hanım Museum , located inside a renovated nineteenth-century villa. Walk along the gardens and terrace overlooking the Bosphorus at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum , a former residence turned private fine arts museum that has exhibited the works of renowned names such as Monet, Picasso, and Rodin.

If your predilections lie in the world of contemporary art, make sure to visit the exhibitions inside the architecturally forward ARTER museum, designed by the London-based Grimshaw Architects. For a nostalgic journey into the past, head to the Ara Güler Museum to admire the iconic black-and-white Istanbul photographs of the famous Turkish-Armenian photojournalist. To learn more about the history of Turkish cinema, visit the Istanbul Cinema Museum inside the iconic and recently renovated Atlas Cinema, which turned a neoclassical mansion into a center of arts and culture in the 1930s. And for more unconventional and unforgettable journeys into Istanbul, such as a curated private sailing or rowing tour on the Bosphorus or Golden Horn, get in touch with Istanbul Tour Studio.

Every Istanbul neighborhood has its own weekly market, but there’s no doubt that the vast and multitudinous Kadıköy Market is the best place to get some serious food shopping done any day of the week. Here you can purchase everything from produce to spices, Turkish cheeses to dried fruits and nuts, fresh fish to offal, and so much more. For gift shopping outside the Grand Bazaar, visit Turkish Modern for beautiful Turkish handicrafts, Homemade Aromaterapi for 100 percent-natural beauty products, and Omar Baban Design for striking and luxurious home goods. Take a little side trip to the hidden courtyard of the historic Arif Paşa Apartment, to find two beautiful boutiques side-by-side: Nauna Linen , with its hand-illustrated textiles, and Touline Ceramics , featuring ceramics all slowly made by hand.

To browse through the latest collections of Istanbul’s most coveted fashion designers, spend some time in the upscale Nişantaşı neighborhood where the city’s most successful names have their ateliers and showrooms. Make sure to visit FEY , the gorgeous women’s clothing and accessories boutique of Fatoş Yalın, Turkey’s first fashion editor. For something edgier, head to Sudi Etuz , a brand created by the new-gen street couture designer Şansım Adalı, known for her bold collections that play with tulle. Another must is the store of young jewelry designer Begum Khan , whose heirloom pieces are inspired by a lush and mystical world of flora and fauna bedecked in ostentatious crystals. For an introduction to Istanbul’s major fashion creators, don’t miss out on Gizia Gate , which brings together the collections of more than thirty of Turkey’s top designers under one roof.

Ecole St. Pierre Hotel

Where to stay in Istanbul

You can find the usual major brands such as the Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental, Ritz Carlton, St. Regis, and Kempinski in Istanbul, but the city also has a few new hotels that have turned historic structures into exceptional accommodations. In the wealthy Sarıyer district, inside two Ottoman-era mansions overlooking the Bosphorus, the Six Senses Kocataş Mansions offer an exclusive stay complete with a luxurious spa and rooms decked out in Belle Epoque furnishings. The former Collège des Frères St. Pierre Elementary School from the nineteenth century is now the very chic Ecole St. Pierre Hotel , with its private courtyard, pizzeria, and room terraces that face the historic Galata Tower.

After a meticulous restoration project, the Adahan mansion, built in 1874 by the Camondo family, is now the luxurious Adahan DeCamondo Pera by the Autograph Collection with an all-day dining rooftop restaurant and cocktail bar overlooking the city. Away from the bustle of Istanbul, the historic Splendid Palace Hotel on Büyükada (the largest of the Prince’s Islands) is something out of a Wes Anderson film, with its red and white interior decorated with palm fronds and elegant furnishings, and its own pool, bar, and restaurant.

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Best Places To Visit In Northern Turkey (2024)

• Last Updated: August 15, 2024
• Destinations , Middle East , Turkey

Turkey is a seriously beautiful country and one that I keep returning to.  There’s just so much to see and experience in this amazing place.

Northern Turkey, on the Black Sea coast, is possibly my favourite part of the country. The Black Sea region (called “ Karadeniz “, in Turkish ) is green, lush, and stunning.

Here you’ll find misty, forested mountains, temperate rainforests, alpine meadows, pristine lakes, and more fascinating historic sights than you could ever hope to visit.

From the breathtaking Sumela Monastery to the epic coastal road between Amasra and Sinop, this region is a paradise for anyone looking to get off the beaten path and discover some of Turkey’s most beautiful hidden gems.

Table of Contents

Best Places To Visit In Northern Turkey

There are too many beautiful places in Karadeniz to include all in this post.  The following are some of my favourites.

I’ve set these out in a rough order that makes sense to follow, travelling from west to east.

1. Istanbul

Okay, Istanbul isn’t technically in the Karadeniz region of Turkey , but it’s close enough.  Plus, you’ll probably be starting and/or ending your trip through northern Turkey here.

This huge city in north-west Turkey is also one of the most incredible metropolises on the planet.

Saying that Istanbul is a place “ where East meets West ” is super cliché.  But it’s also totally true.  

The largest city in Turkey (and Europe, depending on the definition) spreads (literally) over two continents.  It’s the crossroads between Europe and Asia , both physically and culturally.

Istanbul has been one of the world’s most important cities for more than 2,500 years. 

The ancient Greeks and Romans treasured its strategic location, and it later became the capital of both the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires.

Today, more than 15 million people call this amazing place home.  It’s the cultural and economic capital of modern Turkey and one of the world’s truly global megacities.

There’s so much to see and do in Istanbul.  You could spend weeks here , exploring somewhere new each day.

For those with less time, I’d suggest basing yourself in Sultanahmet, the centre of the Fatih district of old Istanbul.  Many of the city’s most famous sights are located in or close to here.

Top sights close to Sultanahmet:

Make sure you check out the Haghia Sophia (“ Aya Sofya “, in Turkish ) and the Blue Mosque (or “ Sultan Ahmet Camii “).

These are two of the most incredible buildings and places of worship that I have ever seen.

Another highlight is the maze-like Grand Bazaar, the largest covered bazaar in the world (with more than 4,000 shops).

Additionally, Topkapı Palace , the former residence of the Ottoman Sultans, now contains a museum.

One of the best ways to experience Istanbul is just to wander and get lost in its winding backstreets.

A  boat trip on the Bosphorus is another great thing to do.  This will give you a sense of the scale and layout of the city.  I recommend doing it at sunset when Istanbul is at its most atmospheric.

With the domes and minarets of hundreds of mosques silhouetted against the sky, and the call to prayer echoing across the water, this place will take your breath away.

Istanbul is, overall, a very safe city to visit (just keep an eye out for pickpockets), and is easy to explore independently.

However, if you would prefer a guided tour to see the highlights, there are many excellent companies to choose from.

Click here for more information.

Amasra is one of the prettiest towns in Northern Turkey and probably my favourite city in Turkey.  

Located on the Turkish Black Sea coast, it’s a popular holiday destination for Istanbulites and others from the surrounding regions.

Driving the 450 kilometres from  Istanbul to Amasra is fairly straightforward and takes about 6 hours.

The tiny old town is located on a narrow peninsula, connected by a Byzantine-era stone bridge.  

Amasra castle was built by the Romans, and its citadel has walls and other fortifications that date back to the 7th and 8th centuries.

There are enough things to do in Amasra to justify spending at least a couple of days here.  It’s a beautiful place to wander, exploring the maze of narrow winding streets.  

Amasra has an idyllic natural harbour.  In summer, it’s a popular place for swimming and catching the sun.  From here, you can also take boat trips along the rugged coastline.

The whole place oozes with rich history and is very atmospheric, especially in the evenings.  

There are several little restaurants with outside terraces, where you can feast on freshly caught fish, whilst watching the sun go down.  

Amasra is one of my favourite towns in Turkey.  As well as being a really pretty place, people here are super friendly. 

It’s easy to make friends with strangers, who are often keen to strike up a conversation with you over tea.

3. Amasra to Sinop: Coastal Drive

The coastal road between Amasra and Sinop is one seriously epic drive .

In parts single-track and poorly paved, this road will probably amaze and terrify you in equal measure.  

The views are stunning, as the road snakes around jagged cliffs, passing through emerald-green forests, above the impossibly blue, glistening sea.

The 320-kilometre coastal route from Amasra to Sinop takes about 8 hours to drive.  

I’d strongly recommend spreading the journey out over a few days though.  You want to take your time here.  There are loads of beautiful places to stop along the way, and friendly people to meet. 

Having your own car is strongly recommended, so you can take as long as you want and stop wherever you fancy.

Some of the best places to stop along the coastal highway include:

• Kurucaşile:  has a famous shipbuilding yard where you can see traditional wooden boats being built by hand.
• Kapısuyu and/or  Çakraz:  both fantastic spots for beach camping , lunch, chilling, etc.
• Cide (pronounced “Chide”): has a great beach and decent, cheap accommodation.
• Gideros Bay:  a beautiful spot for a picnic.

However, fear not if you don’t have a car.  

It is possible to do the journey by taking several  dolmuş (pronounced “dol-mush”) – i.e. shared minibus taxis, similar to  matatus  or  dala-dalas  in Africa, which run on set routes along the way.  

Not the most comfortable way to travel (and the driving is often pretty aggressive), but fun all the same.  

(Make sure you grab a window seat on the left side of the bus, for the best views!)

Sinop is an ancient walled city built on a narrow peninsula jutting out into the Black Sea.

Historically important since the time of the ancient Greeks, today Sinop is said to be the happiest city in Turkey .  It’s also one of the best cities to visit in Turkey.

Sinop is a peaceful, pleasant place with an attractive seafront and lots of good places to eat and drink. 

Take a wander along the harbour, where you’ll find many cafes and stalls selling amazingly fresh grilled fish .

Sinop Castle was originally built in the 7th century BC and is one of the main sights in town.  This amazing fortress housed an infamous jail up until 1997 when it was converted into an open-air museum.  

Starting at the castle, you can walk along the tops of the old city walls .  Climb up the main tower for panoramic views over the old city, its harbour, and out to sea.

Trabzon is the largest city in Turkey’s Eastern Black Sea region and is a convenient hub for exploring the area.  It’s also one of the cheapest places to stay in northern Turkey.

This is another place steeped in thousands of years of history, dating back to the 8th century BC.  It was an important port on the route linking Persia to the Mediterranean.

Trabzon’s ancient walled city was built into the side of a hill, with steep flights of stairs connecting several neighbourhoods.

There are many ancient churches, monasteries and mosques in and around Trabzon.  The most famous of these is the Hagia Sophia ( /Aya Sofya ).  

This smaller cousin of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul is one of the best-preserved Byzantine buildings in the world.

Inside, the walls and ceilings are covered in intricate frescoes depicting stories from the Bible.

The Ottomans converted this amazing building into a mosque.  Since then, it has served as both a hospital and a museum and is now again a mosque.  

6. Sumela Monastery

At an altitude of 1,200 metres, perched on a ledge halfway up a vertical cliff, Sumela Monastery has the most incredible setting imaginable.

Getting to this unbelievable place is part of the experience.  You have to follow a winding road up through a misty valley, past raging streams and gushing waterfalls.

Looking up into the thickly forested mountains, you might catch a glimpse of the monastery, suspended impossibly on the cliff edge.

This Greek Orthodox monastery was founded in the 4th century and is built, literally, out of the side of the mountain.  

Looking out of the narrow windows into thin air, all the way down to the valley floor below, it’s hard not to be amazed that this was built  1,700 years ago .

The complex has several chapels, including a rock church decorated with beautifully intricate frescoes depicting Biblical scenes.  

There are several other buildings around the main courtyard, including kitchens, a bakery, living quarters, a library, and a natural spring said to contain holy water.

It’s certainly one of the most touristy sites in Northern Turkey, but is an incredible place nonetheless.  Definitely worth a visit.

I’d try to go early or late in the day (ideally midweek) to avoid the worst of the crowds.

The attractive village of Uzungöl is situated on the shores of a lake, 90 kilometres south-east of Trabzon, in a valley surrounded by towering mountains.

It’s a popular rural retreat with people from Trabzon and surrounding cities, who come here for long weekends to escape the hustle and bustle of city life.

Uzungöl has a definite Alpine feel, with several smart wooden lodges boasting comfortable rooms and a range of facilities. 

Inan Kardeşler Hotel  is a popular one, and has a fantastic restaurant specialising in local dishes. 

Hiking is a popular activity in the area, and there are several trails starting from the village.  

Depending on how far you want to go, you can either take a leisurely stroll around the lake or hike further up through the thick forests into the surrounding mountains. 

The  Culture Routes Society has some great information on the various long-distance hiking trails and biking routes in Turkey.

Rize is another town on the Turkish Black Sea coast, 80 kilometres east of Trabzon.  

There’s a decent range of places to stay here, and it makes a good base for exploring the surrounding area.

Rize is an important centre of tea production .  People in Turkey drink a lot of tea, and Rize tea (“ Rize çayı “) is said to be the highest quality.  (If you haven’t tried Turkish tea, do – it’s delicious!)

The fertile green hills of Rize province are home to several large tea plantations, some of which you can visit. 

One of the most accessible is the Ziraat Tea Garden , a short walk up into the hills from the centre of town.  

Here you can sample the local produce at its freshest, whilst enjoying the views over Rize and the surrounding hills.

Rize also has a medieval castle , built in the 6th century, plus a small ethnographic museum .

9. Ayder Yaylası

Turkey’s Black Sea region has many  yayla  (summertime mountain pastures).  Ayder is one of the most famous of these.

Located in a lush green valley in the Kaçkar Mountains , about 84 kilometres from Rize, the village itself has beautiful surroundings.

People come here to enjoy the fresh air, fantastic mountain scenery, and the famous  hot springs , which are said to have healing properties.  

Ayder is surrounded by densely forested mountains, sparkling streams and waterfalls.  It’s a beautiful spot and a perfect place to connect with your inner calm .  

And if that’s too hippie-dippy for you, there are many hikes and mountain biking trails in the hills around the area.

Keep an eye out for the many beehives which are hung on trees.  Rhododendron honey is a speciality of this region.

10. Karagöl Sahara Milli Parkı

In the far corner of north-eastern Turkey, near the border with Georgia , you will find the Karagöl Sahara National Park ( Milli Parkı ).

This 8,000-acre park has a beautifully wild feel, whilst still being fairly accessible.  It’s a paradise for nature lovers, hikers and campers.

There’s a lodge located inside the park where you can stay, if you’d prefer not to camp.

This is one of the best places to visit in Turkey in September, especially if you are a keen hiker.  At this time, the weather is likely to be warm and dry, though you should always be prepared for rain.

11. Ani Ruins

130 kilometres southeast of Karagöl Sahara, on the (closed) border with Armenia, is the ruined city of Ani .

Ani is sometimes called the City of 1,001 Churches and is a  UNESCO World Heritage Site .  

Strategically located on a triangular plateau between three gorges, Ani was the capital of the medieval Armenian kingdom in the 10th and 11th centuries. 

At this time, it was one of the largest and most prosperous cities in the world.

Ani was later an important trading post on the Silk Road , which linked China to Europe and the Middle East , due to its strategic location at the crossroads of cultures.

However, the Mongols captured and sacked the city in the 1200s, which marked the start of its gradual decline.

Damaged by earthquakes, harsh weather and repeated Mongol invasions, the beautiful buildings were later abandoned and forgotten .

Today, this amazing, otherworldly place feels like a mythical ghost city.  The whole area is eerily silent.  I didn’t see any other tourists there at all, which is amazing given how spectacular and unique it is.

Exploring the crumbling ruins, with no other soul in sight, it’s easy to imagine you are discovering for the first time the remains of a long-lost civilisation.

Ani is one of the most surreal, memorable places I’ve ever visited.  It’s definitely one of the most underrated locations in Turkey.  I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Why Visit Turkey’s Black Sea Region?

Unlike the west and southwest of the country, Turkey’s Black Sea Region is relatively undiscovered .  

Pulling into a picturesque seaside village, it often feels like you’re the only foreign tourist in town.  Sometimes you are!

Turkish culture is known for its  hospitality .  But in Karadeniz, this is taken to a whole new level.

The first time a total stranger buys you a coffee, or lunch, or invites you to stay at their place, it can be disarming.  “ Why are they doing this?? “, you wonder. 

However, acts of kindness like this towards visitors are totally normal here.  

I lost track of the number of times local people bought me lunch, took me on free boat trips, invited me to stay at their house, and dropped everything to show me around. 

It’s really amazing, and something that took me totally off guard.

I think this is partly due to the lack of mass tourism here.  People stop you in the street.  They are genuinely interested to meet you and hear your story.  They want to chat and to show you their world.

It’s a fantastic place, full of fantastic people.

** If you need a visa to visit Turkey, I recommend using iVisa.com .  Their online visa processing service is quick, secure, and easy to use. **

Practical Info & Tips

Here’s some additional practical information and tips to help you plan your trip to Karadeniz.

How To Get To Northern Turkey

Istanbul Airport is Turkey’s main port of entry.  It’s a global aviation hub, and most major international airlines fly here. 

Alternatively, you could fly to Ankara (Turkey’s capital city), and then head north to the Black Sea.

There are a few international flights to Turkey’s Black Sea cities (such as Trabzon and Samsun), but not many.  Either way, it’ll probably be cheaper to fly to Istanbul.

I use – and recommend – Skyscanner  to find the best flight deals.   Their search engine is easy to use and picks up promotions and discounted fares that other comparison sites often miss.  

Istanbul is a major port , and it’s also possible to arrive here by ship.

I’ve also crossed into (and out of) Turkey through the land borders with both Greece and Georgia , both of which are fairly straightforward.  

If you’re bringing a car with you, make sure you have its registration documents to hand, in case customs officers want to see them.  

International driving permits are not strictly necessary, though I think it’s always a good idea to have one, to avoid any potential issues at the border.

Transport Around Karadeniz

Sightseeing in Turkey is a breeze, and the country has an excellent public transport network.

Cheap and comfortable  long-distance coaches connect most major towns and cities.  

Dolmuş minibus taxis ply the routes between the smaller towns and villages, both on the coast and in the mountains.

However, if your budget can stretch to hiring a car , I’d strongly recommend it.  

Turkey’s Black Sea region is an amazing place for a road trip .  Having your own car enables you to travel at your own pace and stop wherever you want.  Finding free parking usually isn’t difficult either.

It’s much easier to get to more remote places (e.g. lakes, forests, and the surrounding countryside) if you have your own wheels.  

For those who are into camping, this also helps to keep your costs way down. 🙂

Cheap car hire in Turkey

The best deals on car hire in Turkey are usually found on localrent.com .  They compare the prices of local car rental companies, which tend to be significantly cheaper than the big international hire companies.

Click here for the latest prices.

Alternatively, why not drive your own car there…

And if you have even more time, see my guide to travelling from Tbilisi to Mestia , in neighbouring Georgia.  This would make an excellent extension to your  Karadeniz road trip.

** Love road trips?  Me too.  Check out some of my other road trip-related posts, including:

• Romania Road Trip: Everything You Need To Know
• Oman Road Trip: An Epic Arabian Adventure
• The Perfect Albania Road Trip
• Ethiopia: A Road Trip Like No Other  **

Where To Stay In Northern Turkey

With the notable exception of Istanbul, accommodation in Karadeniz is generally much cheaper than in the more touristy parts of the country (e.g. the Mediterranean southwest coast, Cappadocia, etc.).

House of one of the many kind strangers who invited me to stay in Northern Turkey

In most places, you’ll find a range of different accommodations, ranging from simple pansiyons (guesthouses) to luxury hotels.  Most offer free WiFi and free parking.

It’s usually a good idea to book in advance, especially during   Turkish public holidays .

Booking.com is a great place to look to compare the lowest prices.

If you have camping gear , there are many great campsites , often in picturesque locations.  

For those keen to do a spot of wild camping , this is generally fine, provided you are considerate of your surroundings.  

Don’t pitch up too close to where people live/work, don’t be stupid with fire, and take all of your rubbish with you.

Check out this article where I review the  best tents for wild camping .

In short… One of the best tents that money can buy is the  MSR Hubba Hubba 2-person tent .

Best Time To Visit Northern Turkey

Northern Turkey has a milder, wetter climate than the rest of the country.  Humidity is fairly high, and you should be prepared for rainfall year-round, due to the mountains and the Black Sea north of Turkey.

The best time to visit the north coast of Turkey is between June and September when the region receives the least rain and the weather is pleasantly warm.  

However, accommodation is typically more expensive during the summer months.

Due to its unique mild climate, north Turkey is also one of the best places to visit in Turkey in July, when the rest of the country is baking in the midsummer heat.

The mountains can be cold and misty even in the summer though, so warm clothing and waterproofs are essential if you’re planning to hike.

Winters in the Black Sea region are cool and damp.  Though this is when accommodation is usually cheapest.

Tours Of The Turkish Black Sea Coast Region

If you want to visit northern Turkey and the Black Sea coast region, but don’t want to have to bother with the hassle and logistics of organising your trip independently, you could always join a guided tour.

There are many different tours to choose from. Some are short day trips with guides, others are multi-day (or even multi-week) trips where all of your transport and accommodation is taken care of. 

It’s up to you what style of trip appeals to you most.

You can browse through and book some of the most high-rated North Turkey tours on Viator .

FAQs About Visiting Karadeniz

Here are answers to a few frequently asked questions about planning a trip to the Karadeniz region of Turkey.

What is the North Coast of Turkey like?

The North Coast of Turkey, also known as the Black Sea region, or Karadeniz , is known for its lush green landscapes, rugged coastline, and traditional villages. This region contrasts sharply with the arid parts of central Turkey, offering dense forests, tea plantations, and high rainfall.

Where is less touristy in Turkey?

Less touristy areas in Turkey often include the Eastern Anatolia region, the Black Sea coast, and parts of Central Anatolia. These regions offer a more authentic Turkish experience with fewer crowds, rich culture, stunning natural landscapes, and unique historical sites.

What is Karadeniz famous for?

Karadeniz, or the Black Sea region of Turkey, is famous for its lush green landscapes, dense forests, rolling hills, unique culture, and distinct cuisine. The region’s coast features charming towns and historic sites, while its cuisine is known for dishes like hamsi (anchovies) and cornbread.

Is Turkey’s Black Sea region worth visiting?

Turkey’s Black Sea region is definitely worth visiting. It offers a unique experience with its lush greenery, distinctive culture, and less-trodden paths compared to Turkey’s more famous tourist destinations. The region’s natural beauty, from its rugged coastline to forest-covered mountains, is exceptional.

Is Turkey safe to visit?

Most parts of Turkey are pretty safe to visit, as long as you take the usual precautions you would anywhere. That said, the safety situation can vary regionally , especially in parts of southeast Turkey. Karadeniz is overall a very safe region. Check up-to-date government advice about the areas you plan to visit.

Final Thoughts

I hope you’ve found this guide to Northern Turkey helpful.  

Karadeniz is one of the most beautiful, unexplored places in Turkey.  If you’ve never visited before, I’d really recommend it.

Have I missed any of your favourite destinations?  Which do you think are the most beautiful towns in Turkey?  Let me know in the comments below.

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Essential Travel Resources

🛏️   Book cheap hotels

I always use Booking.com to find the best deals on hotels. Vrbo is great for short-term apartments.

🚗  Find cheap rental cars

Check both Discover Cars and Rentalcars.com to find cheap rental cars.

🌍  Book the best tours

Viator and GetYourGuide  have a huge selection of tours in virtually every destination worldwide.

✈️  Find cheap flights

I use a combination of Skyscanner and Google Flights to find cheap flights. 

Airalo is my favourite travel eSIM provider – I’ve used it in over 10 countries and really rate it. So much easier than buying physical SIM cards when you travel!

🚑   Do I need travel insurance?

YES! Never travel without adequate travel insurance. It’s just not worth the risk.

• SafetyWing – if you’re a digital nomad like me, SafetyWing is super flexible and affordable. You can sign up for as little or as long as you want, and activate and deactivate it whenever you need to. I’ve made several claims in the last few years and thoroughly recommend this company.
• World Nomads – for  adventurous travellers , covers 200+ activities that many other insurers won’t, such as  skydiving, heli-skiing,  rock climbing, rafting, scuba diving, cliff jumping, and kiteboarding (not available for residents of every country – check here ).

💻  Do I need a VPN?

YES! Always use a VPN whenever you use public WiFi (in airports, cafes, hotels, stations, etc.). This helps protect your personal information and also bypasses internet censorship and restrictions in certain countries. I use NordVPN and highly recommend it.

Alex Tiffany

I believe in transparency: Please note that some links in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you purchase something through them, I might earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. (For example, a s an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through some of these links.)  However, I only link to products and companies that I trust and honestly recommend. See my  disclosures page for more information. The income goes towards keeping this site up and running. Thanks for your support.

You can see all tours and activities in Fethiye with Fethiye Tours

I am so intrigued to travel in N. Turkey. We went to Turkey many years ago but only for 12 days. We would also really like to visit Georgia. I’ve heard it is beautiful. Can one take a rental car across the border to Georgia?

Both are amazing places!

Re taking a Turkish rental car across the border to Georgia: yes, it’s generally possible, as long as your rental company allows it (check this – not all do) and you have the necessary paperwork.

Get a letter/written permission from the rental company authorising you to take the car across the border (this is sometimes called a “no objection certificate”). The border officials will probably ask to see this.

Also, make sure your insurance covers you for driving in Georgia as well as Turkey. Again, speak with the rental company to check this and ask them to give you a “green card” (i.e. an international insurance card proving that the vehicle is insured).

Finally, make sure you have the vehicle registration documents and a copy of your rental agreement, in case you’re asked to show these too.

Hope you have a great time!

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• I’m Alex Tiffany. Originally from the UK, I’ve been travelling on-and-off for 13+ years. I love offbeat travel and discovering lesser-known spots.
• I’m here to help you explore the best off-the-beaten-path destinations & hidden gems around the world.
• Read more about me and my mission here .
• Need some help planning the perfect trip?  Hire me as your Personal Travel Planner .

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How to go from Bucharest to Istanbul by train – the Bosphorus Express

The Bosphorus Express is the daily train connecting Bucharest, Romania , to Istanbul, Turkey, going through Bulgaria in between. This train partially revives the famous Orient Express and connects Istanbul to Europe (the rest of Europe).

Here, we will explore everything you need to know before doing the Bosphorus Express, either Bucharest-Istanbul or Istanbul-Bucharest, from tickets and timetable to the train and journey itself.

Page Contents

Is the Bucharest-Istanbul train running?

As of 2023, the train is running! Although, it won’t take you to Istanbul-Sirkeci. The train stops at Istanbul-Halkali, about 25 km from the center. However, you get a free shuttle bus ride from the Turkish railways to the central station, Istanbul-Sirkeci!

It’s a bit of a bummer, but it runs well enough, and you’ll get there smoothly. This is not something you’ll need to worry about too much… In Romania , the train starts (or finishes) in Bucharest’s central station, Bucharest Nord.

How to buy tickets to the Bosphorus Express?

As far as we know, you can only buy tickets to the Bosphorus E xpress at the railway stations in Bucharest and Istanbul. Note that if you want to do a stop-over in Bulgaria , you’ll need to buy tickets to the Bulgarian town and then buy another one from them to Istanbul.

Furthermore, be aware that not every station in Bulgaria sells international tickets, only the bigger ones. For example, you can’t buy tickets in Veliko Tarnovo (one of the best things to do in Bulgaria ). You need to go to Gorna.

When buying tickets, double-check if you are given the right tickets, and when traveling with other people, check if you are all together. They mess up the tickets quite a lot! I have seen tickets to seats that don’t exist, and no one seemed too bothered…

What’s the Bosphorus Express timetable?

This is a night train and a quite long one! It also has to pass through two border crossings and change locomotives a few times. All in all, it takes about 20 hours to travel approximately 830 km. You may want to consider a side trip through Bulgaria.

When we did the Bucharest-Istanbul train, we left Bucharest at 12:45 and arrived at Halkali at 7:50. Now it’s a bit earlier, as it departs Bucharest Nord at 10:50 and arrives at Halkali at 06:34, of the next day.

Then, it should take you about an hour to get to the central station on the free shuttle. If you are doing this from Istanbul to Bucharest, the train leaves Halkali at 20:00 and arrives in Bucharest at 17:10!

So, the Bosphorus Express train runs only once daily.

50 things you need to know before going to Bulgaria You may want to consider having a side trip through Bulgaria.

How is the Bosphorus E xpress train?

First of all, you should know that you can’t buy seat tickets for the whole journey. Your options are four and 6-berth couchettes without a bathroom or private sleepers for 1, 2, or 3 persons with private bathrooms.

Nevertheless, if you are not making the whole journey, it is possible to use seats. It’s really complicated, it’s better if you ask at the ticket office if your partial trip can be made without buying the sleeper or couchette.

Overall, the train is a bit dated but still reasonably comfortable. Compared to the Ister train , for example, it felt older, and the beds were less comfortable. 

Which type of seat should I choose?

As we said above, there are four and 6-berth couchettes. Among these, you definitely should choose the four berth ones as six people in such a small space become very crowded and probably difficult to rest. The exception is if you are traveling in a group of 6.

Between the sleepers and the couchettes, the main difference is the bathroom and obviously the comfort of having it only to yourself. As for the bathroom, I honestly don’t think you gain too much in having it for yourselves as the public ones are fairly clean and more than enough. So unless you are a private person, you should be fine in a 4-berth couchette…

You should note that the couchettes have electric plugs, which is great, but you may consider bringing a triple outlet.  Furthermore, the couchettes have an automatic air conditioner, making it even better. On the downside, it doesn’t have Wifi!

How are the shared bathrooms on the train?

Each coach has two shared bathrooms on the ends. They are very small, similar to the ones we find in airplanes. They are cleaned regularly because we never found them very dirty. However, don’t forget to take toilet paper; sometimes they have it, and sometimes they don’t. You don’t want to try your luck here, do you? 🙂

How is the Bucharest-Istanbul train experience?

Compared to the Ister , the Bosphorus Express is slightly less comfortable, and the border crossing is longer and at a much worse time.

We enjoyed this experience, but you should note that we like traveling by train. After all, it’s the civilized way to travel, right?

How’s the Bucharest to Istanbul journey?

The train leaves at 12h40, which is reasonable timing, and allows you to get to the train station easily, have lunch, and buy food for the trip there. Bucharest Nord is a big train station with supermarkets, several fast-food restaurants, and local food stalls. It should be fairly easy to buy supplies for the trip!

Soon after entering the train and getting to your seats, you’ll find the train steward, and he will get your tickets and confirm that you are correctly seated (Hopefully, your seat exists :D, yeah, I’m not forgetting this one for a while… ). Soon afterward, he will bring you pillows, linen, and a nice gift from the Turkish railways: Turkish juice, Turkish cookies, and water. 

How’s the Romania/Bulgaria Border Crossing?

The first part of the journey is very flat, with long plains of fields, and nothing happens until you get to the Romanian/Bulgarian Border. You’ll need to cross the border here, which takes about one hour. This is very easy, but first, you must stop in Giurgiu and exit Romania and only then enter Bulgaria in Ruse.

Border police from both countries are very polite and simply take your passports, scan them, and return them. You don’t even need to leave your seats. As simple as it could be, remember that neither of the countries is entirely on the Schengen agreement.

Soon after entering Bulgaria, the terrain becomes more rugged, but while this happens, it also becomes darker, and you can’t see much. It’s quite a shame because you get through some beautiful Bulgarian mountains and can’t really see them!

Note that the train halts for more than one hour in Gorna to change locomotives and separate the cars that go to Istanbul from the ones that go to Sofia. The rest of the trip to Bulgaria is made at night, and you can’t see much. You arrive at the Bulgarian/Turkish border at 1 am.

How is the Bulgaria/Turkey border crossing?

This border takes much longer because of the Turkish side. Leaving Bulgaria is similar to the previous experience of entering Ruse. Still, when getting to Turkey, you must exit the train and go to the border control queue, which takes a while.

You have your passport and e-visa checked there, and they will probably ask how long you’ll be in Turkey and what address you’ll stay at. It takes more time, but it shouldn’t be complicated. The worst part is that it’s very late at night (around 2 am), and you would rather be asleep, resting.

Later, you get back to the train, and the Turkish customs officers will check the train and may look at you and ask something, but soon you’ll be back traveling to Istanbul. It should take another 5 hours to Halkali, where you leave the train and get the shuttle bus. In the meantime, it’s finally time to get some sleep.

Roughly at 8 AM, you arrive at Halkali, and the steward takes you to the designated shuttle that will take you to Istanbul’s Central Station. It’s relatively quick, taking about one hour to get there. At about 9 AM, you arrive at your final destination, Istanbul Central Station!

What to do in Istanbul?

When arriving in Istanbul, we strongly advise you to proceed to the tourist office next to the station and buy the local public transport card. If you need to take a cab, make sure you choose one that uses the taximeter instead of negotiating the fare – it’s always cheaper! Or you could get an Uber.

We strongly advise staying in the Istanbul center, particularly in Sultanahmet! Sultanahmet is where some of the most famous landmarks are located and is easily accessible. It’s also full of hotels and guesthouses ranging in all prices. Feel free to use the box below to book your hotel!

We suggest you try the Big Bus tours, available in Istanbul. They take you to all the best attractions and provide great information, all with WIFI on board! Click here to check it out!

Finally, this journey will cross 3 countries in 2 days, so remember to travel with insurance. The trip is relatively safe, but you never know what may happen, and it’s always better to be insured.

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Istanbul Travel Tips: 27 Essential things to know before visiting Istanbul

Planning a trip to Istanbul isn’t that straightforward as there are quite a few things you need to know before visiting Istanbul.

You might be wondering whether you need a visa, what are the best places to stay, how to get around the city, how to save money, or what are the common scams to watch out for.

All your questions will be answered in this blog post where I’ll share my top Istanbul travel tips for first-time visitors and things I wished I’d known before visiting.

So without further ado, here are 27 essential travel tips for Istanbul.

*** This article may contain affiliate links, meaning each time you click through and make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you which helps a lot in keeping this website running. Thank you for your support :)

Read more about Turkey:

• How to spend 4 days in Istanbul
• Top 20 free attractions in Istanbul
• 16 Best photography spots in Istanbul
• How to spend 7 days in Turkey
• Best ways to get from Istanbul to Ephesus
• How to book a Turkey car rental

Table of Contents

Istanbul Travel Tips for planning your trip

1. you need at least 3 or 4 days in istanbul.

Istanbul is a huge city with so many things to do. This is why you need a minimum of 3 or 4 days for a proper introduction to the city and to hit all the main tourist attractions.

If you need help planning your itinerary, make sure to read my guide on how to spend 4 days in Istanbul .

Related post: Istanbul itinerary for 4 days

2. Book your hotel in advance

One of the most important Istanbul travel tips is to book your hotel in advance, especially if you’re visiting during the peak season (June to August).

Most of the nicer hotels are usually sold out several weeks or even months in advance. Booking in advance also means that you’ll benefit from cheaper rates.

Some of the best places to stay in Istanbul include Tomtom Suites , World House Boutique Hotel , and Hostel Le Banc .

3. Booking.com is banned in Turkey

If you use booking.com to book your accommodation, I highly recommend doing so before you land in the country since it’s banned in Turkey.

Although you can still access the website to manage your bookings, you won’t be able to book a Turkish hotel while you’re in Turkey.

If you want to book hotels on booking.com while you’re in Turkey, I recommend getting a VPN. Alternatively, you can download the Opera browser on your phone and use their free integrated VPN.

4. Stay outside of Sultanahmet if you want a quiet night’s sleep

Sultanahmet is the most popular place to stay in Istanbul since this is where all the main tourist attractions are located.

But what you probably don’t know is that it can be very loud at night and also quite expensive compared to other neighborhoods.

I learned this the hard way during my recent trip to Istanbul. The hotel I initially stayed at was located along a street flanked by rows of restaurants that kept playing music until 2 a.m!

If you absolutely want to stay in Sultanahmet, Camelot Apartment is located on a rather quiet street, not too far from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.

Otherwise, I recommend staying in either Beyoglu or Karakoy if you want some peace and quiet.

5. You probably need a visa to visit Turkey

One of the most important travel tips for Istanbul is to check whether you need a visa or not. You can do so on the official website here .

There are also third-party websites where you can apply for a visa but these are usually more expensive as they charge an additional fee on top of the visa fee.

Most travelers, including US citizens, need to apply for an e-visa. The visa is valid for a period of 30 to 90 days, depending on your nationality.

UK citizens, for example, are exempt from a visa while others can get a visa for free.

When applying for an e-visa on the official website , click on “new application” and then select your country.

The cost of the e-visa and duration of stay will depend on the country you’re from.

After completing the application process, it can take a few minutes up to 24 hours before the visa is sent by email.

6. When to visit Istanbul

The best time to visit Istanbul will depend on what you want out of your trip. Below is a quick overview of the different seasons and what to expect for each.

Spring :  April to May – Mild temperature, fewer crowds, and cheaper prices. The annual tulip festival takes place in April.

Summer : June to August – Very hot and humid with temperatures rising above 30 degrees Celsius. Huge crowds, hotel and tour prices are much higher.

Fall/autumn : September to November – The temperature starts to drop, fewer crowds, and cheaper hotel rates.

Winter : December to March – Cold weather with the occasional snowfall but it’s considerably less cold than other European destinations.

Istanbul Travel Tips to skip the crowds

7. buy the istanbul museum pass.

The Istanbul Museum Pass gives you access to 10 museums in Istanbul like the Galata Tower, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Irene, Istanbul Archeological museum, and more.

The pass is valid for 5 consecutive days and is perfect for those who want to visit a lot of museums, and at the same time, skip the long ticket lines.

Another option is to buy an Istanbul E-Pass which includes skip-the-line tickets and guided tours for over 40 attractions in Istanbul. The pass is available for 2, 3, 5, or 7 days and is perfect for those who want to see as many attractions as possible while saving money.

CLICK HERE TO BUY THE ISTANBUL E-PASS

Note : I only recommend buying the museum pass under certain circumstances. For instance, if you’re planning to visit 5 museums and the total cost of the individual tickets exceeds the cost of the museum pass, then it makes more sense to get the museum pass.

Otherwise, if you’re visiting one or two museums only, you’re better off buying individual tickets. Just remember that the pass can only be used once at each attraction.

8. Buy attraction tickets online

For those who don’t plan to purchase the Istanbul Museum Pass or Istanbul E-Pass but still want to avoid the long ticket lines, then I recommend booking your attraction tickets online.

You can book tickets to most museums and attractions on the Government website here .

9. Plan your visit outside of the peak season

The peak season in Istanbul, and Turkey in general, is during the summer months of June to August and thus attracts hordes of tourists.

Popular attractions like the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are absolutely packed with tourists during this time of the year.

If you can only come to Istanbul during the peak season, I highly recommend visiting these attractions early in the morning, at least before 8 a.m to avoid the long lines.

As more tourists visit Istanbul in summer, hotel rates also increase considerably as well as tour prices.

Another thing to note is that there are also more crowds during popular Turkish holidays like Kurban Bayrami and Ramadan Bayrami. The date changes every year so make sure to do a quick Google search before your trip.

So, if you want to avoid the crowds and get cheaper prices, I recommend visiting during the shoulder season – April/May or September/October.

Istanbul Travel Tips for getting around

10. the bus is the best and cheapest way to get from the airport to the city center.

Istanbul has two airports – Istanbul Airport (IST) on the European side and Sabiha Gokcen Airport (SAW) on the Asian side.

One of the best Istanbul tips for tourists, more specifically for those traveling on a budget, is to take the Havaist bus (from Istanbul Airport) or Havabus (from Sabiha Gokcen Airport).

It’s definitely the best and cheapest way to get from the airport to the city center. Plus, the buses are very spacious and comfortable.

The bus operates 24/7 and the journey from the airport to the city center takes on average 1-2 hours, depending on where you’re staying. You can buy tickets online or directly at the airport.

If you don’t want to take the bus or are traveling with a group, then I recommend booking a private airport transfer .

11. Download apps like BiTaksi or Uber

If you don’t want to take the bus, be sure to download ride-sharing apps like Uber or BiTaksi. The fares will be much cheaper than regular taxis, plus you can see beforehand how much the journey costs, thus avoiding getting ripped off.

12. Buy an Istanbul Kart

If you’re planning to get around a lot by public transportation, it’s a good idea to buy an Istanbul kart. It costs about 60 TL and you can top up with the amount needed.

The main reason why I recommend getting the Istanbul kart is that the fares are much cheaper with the card (about 50% cheaper) compared to buying a single ticket. You’ll also save time by not having to buy tickets every single time.

A single fare with the Istanbul Kart costs about 10 TL and the good news is that the fare gets cheaper the more you use the card.

The card can be used by up to 5 people, so there’s no need to buy individual cards for each traveler in your group.

You can buy the Istanbul kart at the airport or at most metro stations in the city center and use it on the bus, metro, tram, and ferry.

Alternatively, you can buy this Istanbul transport card that’s pre-loaded with up to 20 rides. You can either pick it up at the airport or have it delivered to your hotel.

Another thing to know before visiting Istanbul is that you can also use the Istanbul Kart to pay for public toilets around the city and inside the metro stations. The toilet fee is about 2 TL.

13. Traffic in Istanbul can be very hectic

One thing to know about Istanbul is that the traffic can be very hectic. One of the most important travel tips for Istanbul is to avoid taking the bus during peak hours, especially in the afternoon.

For instance, I once took the bus at around 5 p.m from Ortakoy to Beyoglu, and what was supposed to be a 40-minute journey ended up lasting 1.5 hours!

The traffic was so bad that I even had to get off the bus and walk back to my hotel. I’m pretty sure I arrived before the bus!

So do yourself a favor by taking the metro instead if you don’t want to get stuck in traffic during peak hours.

14. Don’t rent a car in Istanbul

As mentioned above, traffic can be very hectic which is why it’s not recommended to rent a car in Istanbul unless you plan to leave the city and start a road trip around the country.

Public transportation in Istanbul is cheap, convenient, and reliable so there’s no point in spending extra cash on car rental.

Istanbul Travel Tips to help you save money

15. there are many free things to do in istanbul.

For those traveling on a budget, you’ll be pleased to know that there are many free things to do in Istanbul. Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and all other Istanbul mosques are completely free to visit.

Visiting the Grand Bazaar (which is an experience in itself) or exploring the local neighborhoods like Balat, Fener, and Kadikoy also doesn’t cost a cent.

Make sure to read my guide to 20 things to do in Istanbul for free for more things to do.

Related post: What to do in Istanbul for free

16. Take the local ferry instead of a Bosphorus tour

One of the most popular things to do is to take a Bosphorus tour. It costs anywhere from €10 for a 90-minute sightseeing tour up to €55 for a luxury sunset cruise including dinner .

But if you’re on a budget, you can just hop on the local ferry from Europe to Asia. A single ticket costs only about 10 TL which is a bargain.

One thing to note is that the ferry ride will be shorter but you’ll still be able to admire some of the major landmarks in the city.

17. You can use toilets at the mosques for free

If you need to use the toilet, you can simply go to any mosque and use the toilets there for free. They are generally well-maintained and clean.

Otherwise, you can use the public toilets at the metro stations or around the city for about 2 TL. As mentioned above, you can pay the toilet fee with your Istanbul Kart if you don’t have any small change.

Travel Tips for Istanbul for a safe trip

18. take note of emergency phone numbers.

Travel is sometimes unpredictable which is why it’s always a good idea to have local emergency phone numbers on hand. Below are some of the most important ones:

Police: 155

Ambulance: 112

19. Safety in Istanbul

Istanbul is a relatively safe destination even for solo female travelers. I traveled to Istanbul solo and from my personal experience, I didn’t feel unsafe while walking alone nor did I receive any unwanted attention.

Security is pretty tight with lots of police officers especially around Sultanahmet and Taksim so you don’t have to worry about safety issues.

That said, petty crimes like pickpocketing sometimes happen, so always be aware of your surroundings and avoid flashing any expensive objects.

You should also watch out for scams which brings me to my next tip for visiting Istanbul.

20. Watch out for common scams

Like in most big cities, you need to be aware of common scams that mainly target tourists.

The most popular one is the shoe shiner. The person will pretend to drop his brush and when you pick it up, he will then proceed to shine your shoes which obviously isn’t free.

There’s also another scam where someone will approach you and invite you for a drink. You’ll then end up being forced to pay an exorbitant bill.

In order to prepare yourself before your trip, I recommend reading  this article  about the most common scams in Istanbul.

Other Helpful Istanbul Tips for Tourists

21. buy a local sim card.

The best way to stay connected, especially if you need to use Google Maps to navigate the city, is to buy a local sim card.

There are three major internet providers in Turkey, namely Turkcell, Vodafone, and Turk Telekom. All three are quite similar but it is said that Turkcell has the best coverage.

I recommend buying your sim card when you get to the city center since those at the airport are slightly more expensive.

I bought a Turkcell tourist sim card which came with 20 GB of data and 200 minutes of local call, valid for 30 days. You just need to bring your passport and it takes only a few minutes for the sim card to be activated.

Alternatively, you can buy a pocket wifi (with unlimited internet valid for 14 days) and have it delivered directly to your hotel. It’s slightly more expensive but can connect up to 10 mobile phones at a time.

Note : If you need internet as soon as you land in Turkey, you can use the airport wifi for free. Just input your local phone number and after receiving a one-time password, you’ll be able to connect to the wifi.

22. There are lots of steep hills

One thing to know about Istanbul is that it’s also known as the “City on the Seven Hills” so don’t be surprised if you come across a lot of steep hills.

The streets along Beyoglu, Balat, and Galata Tower are among the steepest in Istanbul and you’ll be sweating buckets if you’re not dressed in light clothing. Make sure to also carry plenty of water and to wear comfy shoes.

23. Mosque Etiquette

Although you can wear any type of clothes you like in Türkiye, you need to dress more conservatively when visiting the mosques.

For women, this means covering their shoulders and knees and wearing a head scarf. Men, on the other hand, need to wear long pants.

You also need to take off your shoes before entering the mosques.

24. Check prayer times before visiting mosques

One thing to know before visiting Istanbul is that you can only visit the mosques outside of prayer times. Make sure to check the prayer times on this website before visiting.

25. Learn some basic Turkish words

Although most Turkish people can speak English, I always do my best to learn a few basic words and phrases in the local language when traveling to a new country.

A little goes a long way and I can guarantee that you’ll put a smile on the Turkish people’s faces if you at least try to speak a few words in the local language.

Below are some useful Turkish words to know:

Hello : Merhaba

Thank you : Teşekkür ederim or Teşekkürler

Please : Lütfen

Excuse me : Afedersiniz (I’ve also heard people say “pardon”)

How much : Ne kadar

26. Drinking tap water in Istanbul

Although it’s considered safe to drink tap water in Istanbul, most locals might tell you the opposite due to the old rusty pipes and water tanks.

I did drink the tap water during my first few days in Istanbul and while it didn’t make me sick, I didn’t really like the taste.

If you don’t want to drink tap water, I recommend buying the 5 L water bottles. They are much cheaper and you can also reduce your plastic consumption since you won’t need to buy multiple water bottles.

27. Plug type

The plugs and sockets in Turkey are of type C and F with a voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. You’ll probably need a travel adapter if you’re coming from a non-European country.

There you have it – 27 important things to know before traveling to Istanbul. If you have any additional Istanbul travel tips to share, please comment below.

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Steph is an outdoor enthusiast who’s always down for adventure. When she's not traveling abroad, you’ll either find her exploring her own backyard or researching her next trip. She writes adventure travel guides featuring waterfalls, mountains, and beaches and shares her tips on how to travel on a budget without compromising on comfort and experience.

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The Man in Seat 61

Bucharest &

Sofia to istanbul.

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One train per day links Europe with Istanbul, a sleeper train called the Sofia-Istanbul Express. This runs from Sofia to Istanbul every day all year with sleeping-cars & couchettes.  From June until October it conveys a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul, at other times of year you travel from Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad in Bulgaria on a series of connecting trains where you join the sleepers or couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express to Istanbul.  This page explains train times, fares & how to buy tickets.

Train times eastbound 2024

* = Transfer between Halkali & Istanbul Sirkeci by frequent Marmaray suburban train as shown here .

Train times westbound 2024

How to read this timetable.

You read downwards, each column is a separate train.  Each train runs every day.

There's a summer & winter service, remember that Bulgaria & Romania put their clocks forward April-October, but Turkey remains on GMT+3 all year. 

Sofia<>Istanbul is a direct train every day all year with sleeping-cars & couchettes (no seats).

Bucharest<>Istanbul is a series of connecting trains in winter, connecting into the Sofia-Istanbul train at Dimitrovgrad.  But in summer there's a direct couchette car between Bucharest & Istanbul with no need to change, as follows:

Direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul every day from early June to early October , attached to trains 461, 465 & 493/12501.

Direct couchette car from Istanbul to Bucharest every day from early June to early October , attached to trains 12502/492, 464 & 462.

When there's no direct couchette car, you travel between Bucharest & Istanbul using seats cars between Bucharest & Dimitrovgrad on each of the trains shown above, then the sleepers or couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express between Dimitrovgrad & Istanbul.  Don't worry, it normally all works like clockwork.

Times may vary!  How to check this timetable :  You can find an accurate timetable in .pdf format at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg/en/a/sofia-istanbul-sofia which is what I use to update this page (please let me know if that link stops working).  Don't expect timetables to be posted months in advance, for example expect the June-September .pdf timetable to be posted on their website in late May or even early June, and so on.  You can try checking times at the German Railways website int.bahn.de , but bear in mind that both Bahn.de and the Interrail/Eurail Railplanner app may have incomplete or even incorrect data for this route, for example there is no change of train at Kapikule or at Plovdiv.  The train runs direct from Sofia to Halkali via Plovdiv & Dimitrovgrad, exactly as I show above.

How much does it cost ?

How to buy tickets.

The Sofia-Istanbul sleepers & couchettes have become popular and in summer and even autumn the train often leaves fully-booked.  I recommend booking in advance if you can, although there's no easy online booking for this route.  Read on for advice.

Eastbound, Sofia to Istanbul

The Sofia to Istanbul train cannot be booked online.

Option 2, you can buy in person at Sofia Central Station at the international ticket window in the main hall, see the Sofia station page for opening hours .

Eastbound, Bucharest to Istanbul - when the direct couchette car operates

Option 1, buy tickets for the direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul at the Romanian Railways website bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro .

Booking usually opens 60 days before departure , but may open just a week or two ahead at the start of the season in June.

Click EN top right for English.  Bucharest is listed as Bucuresti (Romania) , for Istanbul you should enter/select Halkali (Turkey).

You need to collect hard-copy tickets from the ticket office at Bucharest Gara de Nord (or other main station in Romania), so only use this site for one-way or round trip journeys starting in Romania.  It cannot book this route in the off-season when the direct couchette car doesn't run.

Option 3, buy in person at Bucharest Nord, from the international ticket window in the booking hall, see the Bucharest Nord station page .

Eastbound, Bucharest to Istanbul - at all other times

Step 1, book the train from Bucharest to Ruse (in winter) or to Gorna Orjahovitsa (in the spring/autumn shoulder periods, see the timetable above for dates) using at the Romanian Railways international website, bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro .

You need to collect hard-copy tickets from the ticket office at Bucharest Gara de Nord (or other main station in Romania), so only use this site for one-way or round trip journeys starting in Romania.  Booking usually opens 60 days before departure .

Step 2, now book the Bulgarian train from Ruse or Gorna to Dimitrovgrad at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg .  You need to register, tickets can be printed out.  Booking usually opens 60 days before departure .  If you don't manage to book this sector online, don't worry, you can buy a ticket at the station when you get to Ruse (or Gorna) or (if necessary) buy one on the train.

Step 3, book a sleeper or couchette from Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul at Gorna Orjahovitsa station, you have enough time between trains to do so, and Gorna ticket office is (obviously) equipped with the Bulgarian Railways ticketing system so can do this.  However, the international ticket window may be closed at weekends and holidays.  The train is busy, berths are often available on the day but not always.  There is no easy way round this.

Tip:   if there are no berths tonight, but berths are available tomorrow, book tomorrow and stop off at Veliko Tarnovo, it's well worth the stop!)

Or you can buy in person at Bucharest Nord, from the international ticket window in the booking hall, see the Bucharest Nord station page .  In the off-season they can only sell you a ticket as far as Ruse (or at times, Gorna Orjahovitsa), don't worry, buy that, then buy an onward ticket from Ruse or Gorna to Dimitrovgrad at the station when you get to Ruse or Gorna or (if necessary) buy one on the train.  When you change trains at Gorna, book the Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul sleeper train at the ticket office there, you have time between trains.

Westbound, Istanbul to Sofia

Westbound, Istanbul to Bucharest in summer when couchette car operates

Westbound, Istanbul to Bucharest at all other times

Step 1, book a sleeper or couchette from Istanbul to Dimitrovgrad.

You can contact Amber Travel, www.ambertravel.com , a reliable and experienced agency who can arrange this if you email them.

Or contact Andy on [email protected] , the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com .  Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Istanbul, or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details.  He cannot arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations for westbound journeys from Istanbul as the ticket office need to see your actual pass, a copy is insufficient.

Or book in person at Istanbul Sirkeci station, at ticket window 4 for international tickets, open 08:30-19:30 daily, credit cards accepted.

Step 2, book from Dimitrovgrad to Ruse at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg .  You need to register, tickets can be printed out.  Booking usually opens 60 days before departure .  If you don't manage to book this online, don't worry, you can buy a ticket on the train if necessary.

Step 3, buy a ticket from Ruse to Bucharest at the station either in Gorna when changing trains or at Ruse.  You cannot book this train online in this direction.

What's the train like ?

Sofia-istanbul sleeping-cars.

The Sofia-Istanbul Express has two Turkish TVS2000 sleeping-cars built in 1998 (car numbers 483 & 484) and can have a 3rd such car at busy times.  The car number is indicated on the steel destination plate attached to the side of the car towards one end.

Each sleeping-car is air-conditioned with 10 compartments.  Each compartment can be sold as a double (2nd class fare or railpass plus the double sleeper supplement) or single (1st class fare or railpass plus the single sleeper supplement).

Each compartment has an upper & lower berth, sink, table & fridge.  All necessary bedding is provided, along with soap and towel.  Berths fold away to reveal two armchairs for day use.  There are toilets at each end of the car.  There's a 2-pin power outlet intended for electric razors, but no power outlet specifically for mobiles & laptops.  These cars were built with a shower compartment at one end, but this is now used as a storeroom for bedding.  You may be able to buy tea or coffee from the sleeper attendant.

Sofia-Istanbul & Bucharest-Istanbul couchette cars

In addition to the sleeping-cars, the Sofia-Istanbul Express has one Turkish TVS2000 air-conditioned couchette car built in 1996 or 2002 (car number 485).  The direct summer-only couchette car between Bucharest & Istanbul is of the same type (car 479).  The car number is indicated on the steel destination plate attached to the side of the car towards one end.  The car has 10 compartments each with 4 berths, two upper & two lower.  Sheets, pillow & blanket are provided, but you arrange these yourself.  The beds fold away to form seats for day use as shown below.  There are toilets at each end of the car.  There's a 2-pin power outlet in each compartment above the door to the corridor, but you'll need a 2m cable to use it whilst sitting down with your phone or laptop.  Photos courtesy of @Colcestrian and

What's the journey like ?

Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad

Between June and October there's a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul.  Outside this period, you travel from Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad on a series of connecting trains, but it all works like clockwork and you won't be the only person making these connections.  The route & scenery are the same.

The train is shown on the departure boards at Bucharest Gara de Nord as going to Ruse .  A few hours after leaving the imposing Gara de Nord, the train reaches the Romanian border point, Giurgiu Nord.  It then crosses the Danube into Bulgaria on a 2.5 km long steel bridge , the longest steel bridge in Europe, built in 1954 and now fitted with a road deck above the railway.  It curves around off the bridge and arrives at Ruse, the Bulgarian border station on the other side.

When the Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car operates, it's attached to a direct Bucharest-Sofia train from Bucharest as far as Gorna Orjahovitsa - that Bucharest-Sofia train in fact runs for some weeks before and after this period, with no need to change at Ruse.  However, in the winter timetable, you take an air-conditioned Romanian express railcar from Bucharest to Ruse and change into a Bulgarian locomotive-hauled train bound for Sofia, taking it as far as Gorna.

The train then spends a lazy afternoon meandering along pleasant river valleys across rural Bulgaria, have your camera handy.  Pour yourself a beer or glass of wine (remember to bring your own food & drink), read away the hours & enjoy the trip.  The highlight is the journey through the lush green Shipka Pass .  The train from Gorna to Dimitrovgrad calls at Veliko Tarnovo , the ancient capital of Bulgaria - well worth a 24h stopover!

Sofia to Dimitrovgrad

The Sofia-Istanbul Express leaves Sofia's impressive communist-era central station and heads off across Bulgaria as night falls.  Remember to bring your own food & drink, maybe even a bottle of wine, as there's no catering on board.

Dimitrovgrad to the Turkish border

At Dimitrovgrad, the Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car (when running) is attached to the Sofia-Istanbul Express.  When it's not running, passengers from Bucharest & Veliko Tarnovo change onto the sleepers & couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express.

Border controls at Svilengrad , Bulgaria

Late at night, the train reaches the Bulgarian border point at Svilengrad.  You remain on the train, Bulgarian border guards come on board.  They collect all passports and take them off the train to check them, they come back on board and return them before the train leaves.  This happens in both directions, eastbound & westbound.

When Bulgarian controls and completed and passports returned, the train heads across the border into Turkey, reaching the Turkish border station of Kapikule well after midnight.

Border controls at Kapikule, Turkey

At Kapikule you need to leave the train for border formalities, in both directions:

Eastbound procedure:   Step off the train onto the platform, taking all your bags with you.  Step 1, go to the passport office further along the platform in the main building and get your passport stamped (see the photo below).  Step 2, get your bags X-rayed in the small white shed-like building on the platform to the left of the main station building.  After the train itself has been security checked, you can then re-board.  Note that until 2022 you had to do the X-ray check first and passport check second, but in 2022 it was reportedly switched round.  Feedback appreciated .

Tip:   You may find the station cafe open for the train arrival, it accepts contactless payment cards so enjoy a late night coffee or snack while you wait to reboard!

Westbound procedure :   Step off the train onto the platform, in this direction you can leave your bags on the train.  Go to the passport office on the platform in the main building, get your passport stamped (see the photo below).  You can then re-board the train. 

Remember that time zones change here:   From the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October, Bulgarian & Turkish time is the same, GMT+3.  But Turkey has no Daylight Saving Time, so Turkish time is 1 hour ahead of Bulgarian time in winter.

The train arrives at Kapikule on the platform shown above, adjacent to the station building.  X = X-ray baggage check shed.  P = passport office in main building.  Photo courtesy of Daniel Sterk .

Onwards to Halkali & Istanbul

In years gone by, the train used to make a dramatic entry into Istanbul through the Byzantine Walls of Theodosius, skirting the Sea of Marmara underneath the very walls of the Topkapi Palace into the beautiful Istanbul Sirkeci station, opened in 1888 in the heart of the city.  However, the train now terminates at a suburban station called Halkali some 25km west of Sirkeci, expect an arrival an hour or two late, so allow for this and enjoy the ride.  You then take one of the frequent Marmaray suburban trains into Istanbul Sirkeci as explained further down this page .  Sirkeci station is walking distance from all the sights, or you can hop into a taxi to the famous Pera Palas Hotel .  Map of Istanbul showing Sirkeci station .

Travel tips

Finding & boarding your train

As with virtually all European trains, there's no check-in.  Just stroll into the station, find your train and get on, any time before it leaves.  The sleeper or couchette attendant will normally greet you on the platform at the door to the sleeping-car and check your reservation.  He'll come round and see you soon after departure to take your ticket or pass.

In Bucharest, the train is shown on the departure boards as going to Ruse.  In winter train it's train 1095, in summer train IRN 461.

Using an Interrail or Eurail pass

You can use this train with a pass, of course, paying the relevant couchette or sleeper supplement.  However, there's a minor irritation when using a pass from Sofia, Bucharest or Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul.  You are of course using a direct overnight train so the Interrail night train rule applies and only one pass day (the date of departure) is used.  Unfortunately, the Railplanner app incorrectly thinks it's a separate train from Kapikule to Istanbul, therefore if you add it to your pass directly from the Railplanner timetable it will trigger the use of a second pass day to cover what it thinks is a second train leaving after midnight.  The solution is to add the Bucharest or Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul train to your pass manually.

How to transfer from Halkali to Sirkeci

The international train from Sofia & Bucharest to Istanbul now terminates at Halkali, a suburban station 25 km west of Istanbul's famous Sirkeci station, the original terminus in the city centre opened in 1888.

The easiest way to reach Sirkeci is to take a frequent Marmaray suburban train, these run at least every 15 minutes, journey time from Halkali to Sirkeci around 35 minutes, fare around TL 35 (€1.90).

Use the self-service machines at the station to buy an Istanbulkart public transport smartcard for 50 TL, then top it up to get to Sirkeci.

The Marmaray trains arrive at the new underground platforms beneath the historic (but now trainless) ground level terminus.  They continue beyond Sirkeci through the Bosphorus rail tunnel to Söğütlüçeşme station on the Asian side, where the high-speed YHT trains to Ankara & Konya start ,

If you prefer to go direct to your hotel by taxi, it will cost the equivalent of around €16 from Halkali to central Istanbul, but have Turkish lira with you to pay the driver as there is no ATM at Halkali.

How to transfer from Sirkeci to Halkali

The international train to Sofia & Bucharest now leaves from Halkali, a suburban station 25 km west of Istanbul Sirkeci station in the city centre.

The easiest way to reach Halkali from central Istanbul is to take a frequent Marmaray suburban train from Sirkeci station, these run at least every 15 minutes, journey time from Sirkeci to Halkali around 35 minutes, fare around TL 35 (€1.90).

The Marmaray trains leave from the underground platforms at Sirkeci, beneath the now-trainless ground level terminus.

To be on the safe side, I'd leave Sirkeci at least 1h15 before the sleeper is due to leave Halkali.  Check the departure time from Halkali shown on your ticket carefully, as it varies.

At Halkali there's now a brief baggage X-ray check when accessing the platform for the train to Sofia & Bucharest.

Tip:   Buy food and drink before you leave as there are few or no facilities n or around Halkali station, just a waiting room.

If you prefer to go from your hotel to Halkali by taxi, it will cost the equivalent of around €16.

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