nytimes travel budapest

The Favorite Budapest Places Of A New York Times Journalist

• Offbeat Budapest

Stephen Hiltner is an editor and photojournalist at the Travel desk of The New York Times. This summer, he was in Budapest for three months to rediscover the city where he spent part of his childhood. Stephen’s trip yielded a beautiful essay woven through with family history, observations from the street level, and plenty of memorable photos. Recently, I took the opportunity to ask some questions about his experience.

What brought you to Budapest?

The literal answer is a Pan Am 747, back in July of 1990. At the time my dad worked for General Electric, which, a year earlier, had purchased Tungsram, a Hungarian light-bulb company. We — my dad, mom, elder brother and sister, grandmother and I — were among the small number of American families that moved to Hungary in the early years of its transition from communism to capitalism.

More recently, though, I felt compelled to return in light of all the Western political coverage that Hungary has received. I came for three months, beginning in early April. My hope was that I could get to know the place — learn its rhythms, appreciate its culture, observe the life of everyday Hungarians — from the loftier perch of adulthood.

What is the most striking difference between the city today and the Budapest you experienced as a child?

I remember when the first Pizza Hut opened in Budapest in 1992, on the corner of Király utca and Erzsébet körút. And the main reason I remember its opening — I was never crazy about the food — is because there were so few links at the time between Hungary and America, my home. Really, there were very few links between Hungary and any country outside of Central or Eastern Europe. So the mere fact that an iconic foreign institution, American in this case, had suddenly appeared in the middle of the city was borderline astonishing. (Also, the waiters had these fancy handheld remotes that would zap your order from the side of your table to a receiver of some kind in the corner of the restaurant, which was just about the most technologically advanced thing I’d ever seen.)

This year, within a few weeks of arriving, I found authentic sushi at Kicsi Japán , delicious Eastern cuisine (“from Cairo to Calcutta”) at Pingrumba , and mouthwatering Afghan food at Kabul Restaurant — not to mention a pretty darn good cheeseburger at Rizmajer Beerhouse .

All of which is to say: Budapest is a cosmopolitan city now, for better or worse. Budapest was not a cosmopolitan city in 1990.

Were there any cafes or bars to which you’ve found yourself returning?

I was working New York City hours during my stay, which meant that my days were largely free until 3 pm, after which I worked until around 11 pm. Kelet Kávézó , on Bartók Béla út, was a lifesaver: It was open late, had a cozy atmosphere, and served delicious and intriguing food. I could hole up with my laptop for a couple hours, have a meal, sip a late-night cappuccino, and finish up my workday.

The area was familiar to me because, as a kid, my family’s piano teacher, Balázs Szokolay , lived right around the corner. It was fun to see how lively the neighborhood has become.

What’s your favorite Hungarian food or pastry? Can you recommend a Budapest restaurant for people to try it?

It’s cliché of me, I know, to plug kakaós csiga, but it would be disingenuous if I claimed to have enjoyed (or to have consumed) any pastry more. Think what you want of their chic shop on Rákóczi tér, but VAJ has the best csiga in the city, by a wide margin. I’d put Pékműhely Bartók ’s in second place, followed by Három Tarka Macska ’s.

Cherries were my other obsession. Kolibri Kávézó was the only shop I found that reliably carried Frutomania’s cherry juice, which is otherworldly. (Kolibri also has fantastic fresh sandwiches and pastries.) The best cherry strudel I found was at Évi Rétes , on Nagymező utca. And the greatest selection of actual cherries was at Lehel Market on Saturday mornings — which you had recommended to me! So thank you for that.

What was the highlight of your stay?

Reconnecting with people from my childhood — with Laci, the wonderfully generous (and remarkably fastidious) man who drove my siblings and me to school each day; with Ms. Tracy, my kindergarten teacher whom I hadn’t seen in 30 years; with Balázs, our old piano teacher. I visited my old school, the American International School of Budapest , on several occasions — to teach photography classes, and to talk with graduating students about life after high school. No doubt those were the most memorable, and meaningful, moments of my visit.

What tip do you have for visitors to get the most out of their time in Budapest?

Find your way to the lesser known districts.

My favorite pastime was meandering through the city’s grand cemeteries: Kerepesi , Farkasréti , Kozma Street . Each is full of magnificent art, and all three lie outside the center of Budapest, which means that, coming and going, you begin to get a broader sense of the city.

In the end I found that Budapest’s cemeteries were microcosms of the city itself: trimmed and stately in their well-trafficked stretches, and unkempt at their fringes. It’s always enjoyable, of course, to see the stately side of something. But I find that it’s usually more instructive to observe life at the fringes.

My content is free and independent. If you've enjoyed this article, please consider supporting me by making a one-time payment ( PayPal , Venmo ).

Making history

T his year marks 150 years since three cities along the Danube—Buda, Óbuda, and Pest—united, forming the modern metropolis of Budapest. The Hungarian capital is celebrating its sesquicentennial with nearly 100 events extending through 2024.

The city’s landmark Chain Bridge will reopen to pedestrians this fall after more than two years of reconstruction. In October, scores of spectators will cheer on participants in the Budapest Marathon as they run next to and under the famous bridge. Other anniversary events include an open-air jubilee concert in Heroes’ Square in September; the Cake of Budapest competition, with the winning confectionary set to be offered citywide after the first public tasting this fall; and a new exhibit on the identity of Budapest at the Budapest History Museum.

The events build on the momentum of several recent openings, including the Museum of Ethnography , House of Music Hungary , and the Hungarian State Opera , which wrapped up a comprehensive renovation last year. Many attractions at the Buda Castle Palace District, including St. Stephen’s Hall , the Guardhouse, and Karakash Pasha Tower, have been restored to their original glory as part of the National Hauszmann Program .

A slate of new hotels will house anniversary visitors. The W Budapest is set to open directly across from the opera house in July. The historic Klotild Palace will be converted into the St. Regis Hotel Budapest. And the Dorothea Hotel, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, will debut on Vörösmarty Square.

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Nem először ajánlja Budapestet utazásra a külföldi sajtó, és talán nem is utoljára. A New York Times szerkesztői ezúttal azonban nem a város gyógyfürdőit, építészeti műemlékeit és magyaros konyháját, hanem trendi hoteleit, újabb éttermeit és kézműves üzleteit emelték ki.

Néhány nappal ezelőtt jelent meg a New York Times listája, amelyben a világ minden tájáról összesen 52 úti célt emel ki, amelyet 2017-ben érdemes lesz felfedezni. A lajstromban a chilei Atacama-sivatag, Madagaszkár szigete és a Kalahári-sivatagba torkolló Okavango folyón utazás mellett a magyar főváros is előkelő helyen szerepel.

 Budapestről úgy írnak, mint egy fenséges, állandóan pulzáló metropoliszról, amelynek modernitása az újhullámos éttermeiben, a fiatalos, trendi szálláshelyeiben, a dizájner üzleteiben és magyar kézműves ékszerészek munkáiban fedezhető fel. Gyorsan ki is emeli közülük a Márga Bisztrót és a Károly körúti Szimply éttermet, a Szimpla Design Shop és a Velvet Chemistry üzletét, miközben felhívja a figyelmet az elmúlt években a városnak új arculat adó olyan boutique hoteleknek, mint például a tavaly megnyílt belvárosi Hotel Rum .

Érdekesség, hogy az 52 helyből a környező régióból mindössze Isztria szigete és Dubrovnik szerepel, pl. Bécs, Prága, Pozsony és Krakkó nem. Ugyanakkor az elmúlt másfél egyik brókerbotránya kapcsán az utóbbi hetekben még gyakrabban emlegetett , kellemes klímájú turistaparadicsomról, a Karib-tengeri Belize-ről még a NYT is a 2017-es év egyik leginkább felfedezésre ajánlott úti céljaként beszél. A teljes listát itt találja .

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Budapest: the city break where you can push the boat out for less

Posh hotels, lavish thermal spas and a trip to the ballet — it’s possible to holiday like a lord in the hungarian capital without spending a fortune.

I don’t think I’ve sat in a more beautiful breakfast room than the New York Café — with its marble pillars, pastel frescoes, gilded balustrades and courteous staff, it surely matches anything Louis XIV enjoyed over his scrambled eggs at Versailles. Descending its ornate staircase, surrounded by all the flummery of the belle époque, I feel that this is a very good place to kick off a weekend of living like a lord.

Despite the name, this is not New York. And despite an architect called Hauszmann, it is not Paris either. It’s the café in the Anantara New York Palace in Budapest , one of the cheapest city-break destinations in Europe.

Being something of a cheapskate, I am drawn to budget places, but I wasn’t here for the £1 pints. Instead I had come to see how much of the really upmarket stuff in Budapest could be done over a couple of days, and for how little. My wife, Susanne, came along too, to make sure I didn’t cut any corners.

That meant booking into the Anantara, a five-star property built in 1894 by the New York Life Insurance company (hence the hotel’s full name), with a soaring honeycomb atrium reminiscent of a Moorish caravanserai. Double rooms are half the price of those in the similarly palatial Anantaras in Marbella and Rome, which was a good start.

Over breakfast we made a list. There would be a spa massage, posh dining, ballet and dinner cruising, plus something classically cultural.

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For our first assignment we had chosen the Rudas, a waterside institution built in the 16th century during Ottoman rule. Its Turkish dome is pricked with stars in stained glass. Entry to its various pools, along with dry saunas and steam rooms, costs £8 for the day ( rudasfurdo.hu ).

● Where to stay in Budapest: 14 great hotels

Mastering the locker system took a bit of doing — although 60 per cent of customers here are tourists, there’s barely any English signage. Fortunately the massage needed only body language. Silvia, my masseuse, had fearsome knuckles and a low centre of gravity, and lots of our communication was grunting, mostly from me, but sometimes from her, as she rearranged my internal scaffolding. All that cost £21 for 45 minutes.

In the afternoon, still smelling slightly eggy from gentle maceration in lightly sulphurous water, we sat down for a posh tea in the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, its art nouveau exterior only blemished by a yellow McLaren with British number plates parked outside — terribly vulgar.

There was nothing vulgar about the tea, though. Would we like oolong, lapsang or jasmine? Sitting beneath Preciosa chandeliers in the Muzsa cocktail bar, we worked our way through warm scones with cream, followed by a cake stand stacked with fancies and savouries, while beside us a pianist played Vivaldi and Gershwin. It cost £23, a third of the price of afternoon tea at the Savoy. It also made us lose track of time. It had been our plan that evening to take in a Brahms concert at the lavish Pesti Vigado hall, but the tickets were only £6, so it hardly mattered that we failed ( vigado.hu ).

Day two featured a midday visit to the ballet, along with a cross-section of high-society types taking their grandkids out for a treat. La fille mal gardée was on in the Erkel theatre (Budapest’s grand opera house is being refurbished), which partly explained why our stalls seats cost £7 — when compared to the Royal Ballet’s average of £100 ( opera.hu ).

You might expect amateurs for such prices, but there was nothing flat-footed about this performance, a story of two impoverished lovers overcoming the odds, with dancing cockerels, live donkeys and buffoonish aristocrats.

● Best budget city breaks in Europe

For our own grand finale that night, we embarked on a Danube dinner cruise with live music. I was nervous about this choice, the biggest single investment of the trip at £40 a head, especially when Susanne announced she’d ordered champagne too. It turned out to be a £7 Hungarian bottle, though, and it wasn’t half bad.

For three hours the Nimrod glided gently up and down, with Buda’s illuminated castles on one bank and Pest’s art nouveau façades on the other. We tucked into duck confit while being entertained by two impressively gifted pianists. The cuisine was unremarkable, but the collective atmosphere of an adventure shared was infectious — and, dare I say it, romantic ( silver-line.hu ). An equivalent three-course, live-music dinner cruise on the Thames costs more than £100.

And that was our weekend of living like lords. I don’t need to tot up the savings to know it was a steal. We did some things I would not normally have done in a month of Sundays. And that in itself is worth its weight in gold.

Andrew Eames was a guest of the Anantara New York Palace, which has B&B doubles from £165 ( anantara.com ). Fly to Budapest

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The best times to visit Budapest

Jan 15, 2023 • 7 min read

Choose the best time for your visit to Budapest with this guide to what's happening through the year © Drazen_ / Getty Images

With scorching hot summers and sub-zero temperatures in winter, Budapest shows a different face with each changing season.

City life spills outdoors into restaurant terraces, parks and even Danube beaches in the warmer months, while the colder, gloomy ones are more about culture and coziness. In between are the blossom-filled spring and the hiking-friendly months of fall.

No matter when you come, though, you’ll always find something to do in Budapest . If the weather is too damp for a hike through the Buda Hills, just head to a museum . When it's too snowy for walking, jump into one of the city's famous thermal baths . Here’s a guide to the best times to visit Budapest throughout the year.

High season is May to September and December

The warm summer from May to September is the time to come if you enjoy festivals. It's also the peak season for tourism, bringing high temperatures and higher prices. The lively Sziget Festival , which takes place in August on Óbuda island, is perhaps the city’s most famous party, but you’ll find a full calendar of events running from spring to early fall.

Take your pick from the Jewish Art Days festival and Night of the Museums in the spring, Budapest Pride and the Formula 1 Grand Prix in the summer, and the Budapest Wine Festival in September as summer gives way to fall.

The other peak month is December, when Budapest's atmospheric Christmas markets are in full swing. If you plan to visit during any of the high season months, be sure to book accommodations far in advance.

March, April and October are the best months to get outdoors

Budapest’s weather in spring and early fall is fresh and pleasant – you can still enjoy life outdoors, but as a bonus, you get to avoid both the scorching heat of summer and the high season crowds. Blossoming fruit trees add a pop of color to March and April in Budapest’s gorgeous gardens and parks. In the fall, rusty golden leaves make the hiking trails in the Buda Hills especially beautiful.

Visit in November, January and February to avoid the crowds

The months on either side of the winter festivities in Budapest are gray, cold and missing the joyful spirit you’ll find around Christmas. But there is an upside: if you’re looking to get a good deal on a hotel, this is definitely the right time to come. Budapest has plenty of museums and other indoor activities, plus concert halls, theaters, and an exciting nightlife and dining scene, so even if the weather is cold, you'll still find plenty to do.

January quietens down after New Year's Day

January is usually a quiet month, but it starts with a bang. The New Year’s Gala Concert at the Pesti Vigadó concert hall closes the festive holiday season and always draws a crowd. In mid-January in even-numbered years, you can head over to the Budapest International Circus Festival in City Park for an extravaganza of international and local circus acts and troupes, as well as performances from newcomers.  Key events: New Year’s Gala Concert, Budapest International Circus Festival.

Sights may reduce opening hours in February

In winter, some museums and tourist attractions cut their visiting hours short until the spring thaw, but you can fill your belly up at the Mangalica Festival in the public square of Szabadság tér for three days in mid-February. Mangalica is a unique, fluffy-coated breed of pig that produces pork with a particularly delicious taste, and you can try a variety of Mangalica sausages and salamis at the festival. Key events: Mangalica Festival, Budapest Dance Festival.

Concert season starts in March

Budapest heads outside as spring begins to bloom, and the first blossom on the almond tree on Gellért Hill starts to appear on Budapest's Instagram feeds. March also marks the start of the concert and theater season, while the VinCE wine show is a big event for oenophiles. A big national holiday takes place on March 15 to commemorate the 1848 Revolution. Key events: VinCE Budapest, March 15 national holiday.

April is the perfect time for culture lovers to visit

Easter usually falls around the end of March or the beginning of April, and it's observed with church visits and special foods in Budapest. This month also marks the beginning of the Budapest Spring Festival, one of the city's largest and most important cultural events. Spread over 18 days, more than 200 events take place at multiple venues in the city. Culture-vultures will find the city especially vibrant at this time of year, with everything from opera and theater to classical concerts, jazz, world music and even contemporary circus shows. Key events: Budapest Spring Festival, National Dance House Festival.

Celebrate Jewish culture in May

May plays host to the Jewish Art Days Festival , a two-week festival celebrating Jewish culture, food, theater and film. Beer lovers will want to come for Budapest Beer Week , where 60 Hungarian microbreweries team up with guest breweries from the Czech Republic and Germany in pubs, bars and other venues across the city. Key events: Jewish Art Days Festival, Budapest Beer Week.

Museums stay open late on the solstice in June

Although June welcomes in the summer, it can be wet, with regular summer showers and storms. But that doesn’t stop the crowds coming out. To mark the summer solstice, many of Budapest’s museums open their doors from 6pm until the early morning hours for the Night of the Museums . Key events: Danube Carnival, Night of the Museums.

July can be crowded with tourists

School ends for the summer holidays, and many locals head down to Lake Balaton to escape the heat, while international visitors crowd into Budapest. Plan your trip for the first weekend of July for Budapest Pride , with a week of LGBTIQ+ cultural events and parties, plus the famous annual Pride Parade. Key event: Budapest Pride.

August is the city's busiest month

If you’re traveling to Budapest in August, book accommodations, flights and event tickets well in advance – this is Budapest’s busiest month, with festivals and events galore. The Formula 1 Hungarian Grand Prix takes place in early August, and the Sziget Festival is in mid-August. Hungary’s biggest national holiday, St Stephen’s Day, comes on August 20 – be sure to watch the spectacular firework display from the Danube Banks. Key events: Formula 1 Hungarian Grand Prix, Sziget Festival, St Stephen’s Day, Budapest Festival of Folk Arts 

September has several events across the city

Warm weather lingers into September. It’s a pleasant month as the weather is bright but not too hot, and there are some great events going on around town. The Budapest Wine Festival in the Castle District has delicious Hungarian wines from around the country. Sip a glass while enjoying the amazing views. Key events: Budapest Wine Festival, Jewish Cultural Festival .

October's fall colors are stunning

With the fall colors, Budapest is beautiful in October. It’s a great time for hiking the Buda Hills, but there’s also a lot going on downtown. The Budapest Pálinka and Sausage Festival in the Castle District brings gastronomic offerings of potent fruit brandy and tasty local sausages, while CAFe Budapest celebrates the city's contemporary art and design scene with various cultural events. October 23 is also an important national holiday commemorating the 1956 revolution. Key events: Budapest Pálinka and Sausage Festival, CAFe Budapest, Design Week, Art Market Budapest, Mini Festival of Contemporary Music, October 23 national holiday.

November is a quiet time to visit

November begins with All Saints Day on November 1, a public holiday when Hungarians visit the graves of loved ones to leave candles and flowers. It’s a cold, gray month, and November is a quiet time in the city before the advent festivities begin for Christmas. Key event: All Saints Day.

December is packed with Christmas festivities

In the weeks leading up to Christmas, Budapest bursts into life with twinkling Christmas lights, buzzing markets and all kinds of festive celebrations. Wander through town with a cup of mulled wine and munch the freshly roasted chestnuts sold at market stalls dotted around the streets. You can also sample delicious "chimney cake," a brioche-like treat grilled over hot coals and rolled in nuts, cinnamon or cocoa. Key events: Christmas markets, New Year’s Eve and Gala Ball.

This article was first published December 2021 and updated January 2023

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Travel Guide for Budapest: A Cheat Sheet for First-Timers

Budapest is a true European gem with a casual, hip vibe.

Despite a turbulent past, reflected in the city’s culture, food, politics, and architecture, Budapest shines through the grit and will dazzle you with its stunning sights and squares near and along the banks of the Danube River and up along its hilly slopes.

It’s a must-see city if you’re traveling to Eastern Europe. So, in this travel guide for Budapest, you’ll find ideas about what to do in Budapest, get helpful Budapest tips, and advice on where to stay in Budapest especially if it’s your first time in the city.

Ready to visit Budapest? Let’s go!

As a Budapest visitor, you’ll see evidence of Budapest’s past in the form of its architecture, culture, monuments, religious and political buildings, and even the city’s overall layout.

Budapest was formed officially in 1873 when the 3 adjacent cities of Buda, Pest, and Obuda joined into a single capital city. Today when you visit Budapest, you’ll see the Danube River. Pest was on the east side of the river where the Parliament Building sits. Buda and Obuda were on the west side, where Fisherman’s Bastion and Castle Hill are.

The Chain Bridge links the 2 sides, having served as a connecting point since the mid-1800s.

Where is Budapest?

Budapest is the capital of Hungary. The country is bordered by Slovakia, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, and Ukraine. Budapest is well connected by train to many other European cities.

Budapest to Vienna is only 2 1/2 hours on the high-speed train. Bratislava from Budapest is about the same if you take the fastest trains. Prague is 6 1/2 hours away by train.

This is why a common trip to Prague, Vienna, and Budapest goes in that exact order. Fly into Prague and depart from Budapest with time in Vienna in between. The train trips between Prague and Vienna and then Vienna to Budapest are more than reasonable. It’s exactly what I did with my hubby on my first trip to Budapest.

What to Do in Budapest

Spending 2-3 days in Budapest will give you enough time to see and do first-timer musts. It’s likely, though, after spending time in this still (somewhat) off-the-beaten-path city, you’ll be thinking about your next visit to Budapest. (I was so happy to return!)

Start by Riding the #2 Tram.

This tram goes along the Danube on the Pest side of the river and gives a sense of how the former cities of Buda and Pest are situated. Tickets are easily purchased in a metro station. The ride will give you a glimpse of Budapest’s major sights, too, including the Buda hills where Castle Hill is, the Parliament building, and the Chain Bridge.

If you prefer a guided tour to orient yourself, check out Budapest Free Walking Tours .  They offer daily tours at 10:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. that depart from Elisabeth Square, not far from the Budapest Eye Ferris wheel. This Budapest Tour is meant to help you understand the basics of Budapest.

You can reserve a spot on their website and no obligation to stay for the entire tour. Just remember, that if you’re happy with your guide, make sure to tip them what you can at the end of the tour.

Don’t Miss the Views on Spectacular Castle Hill.

After this introduction to the city, walk across the Chain Bridge. From there walk or take the funicular up to Castle Hill . The funicular is on the Buda side and is undoubtedly easier than the walk. However, the walk up is not overly difficult and scenic along the way.

Once at the top, though, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping panoramic views of the city and the Danube. The views are absolutely breathtaking!

Do Some Castle Hill Sightseeing.

On Castle Hill, spend the morning or afternoon visiting the Royal Palace, Mathias Church, and Fisherman’s Bastion.  You can walk around independently or go on a Buda Castle Walking Tour with a guide for more context.

Fisherman’s Bastion is part of Buda Castle and history says that fishermen back in the Middle Ages lived just below the castle walls and served as a line of defense protecting the castle. Today, the terraces along the walls that stretch opposite the Danube provide the lookouts over the river and city below.

Matthias Church is a Catholic church built in the latter part of the 14th century in a Gothic style, replacing an even earlier Romanesque-style church dating back to the 11th century. 

Also on Castle Hill is Buda Castle, a Baroque palace built in the 1700s.

The original structure dates back to the 1200s and was the residence of the Hungarian Kings throughout the years. Today, the palace houses the National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum, both of which have traditional daily hours. However, the Castle’s courtyards and surrounding grounds are open 24/7.

If you arrive on the hour between 8:30 and 5:00 p.m., you’ll also see the Hungarian Changing of the Guard at the castle. Or you just might want to head underground to explore the caves below Buda Castle which served as many things over the centuries including a medieval prison, wine cellars, and bomb shelters.

If you’re looking for some non-touristy things to do in Budapest, check out this Hospital in the Rock Tour . This is a guided tour of an underground WW2 bunker that was used as a top-secret military hospital!

Tour Budapest’s Grand Parliament Building .

This ever-present architectural gem on the shores of the Danube is another of the many things to see in Budapest. You can opt to see it just from the outside but I recommend taking a guided tour of the inside. (You cannot get in without being part of a tour.)

The Parliament tour and its setup logistics take about 60-90 minutes. You can buy tickets online here and combine your visit with a city tour or get them through the official website . The website is in Hungarian but there is a way to switch the language to English at the top. Look for a tiny “HU” in the menu bar. this is where you can toggle between languages.

A limited number of same-day tickets are also sold at the Visitor’s Center below the Parliament building itself. Depending on the time of year you visit, this could be a long line and you’re at the mercy of whatever remaining tours that day have space.

Take a Moment at the Shoes on the Danube Memorial.

Along the river, near Parliament, a simple but impactful bronze shoe exhibit stands as a memorial remembering Jewish people who were killed less than a day before the Soviets came to “liberate” the city.

Residents were told to take off their shoes and place their valuables inside of them. Then, they were shot execution-style along the river so their bodies would be swept off in the current.

Soak in Budapest’s Thermal Baths.

Budapest is also famous for its thermal baths. Gellert Spa and Thermal Bath and  Széchenyi Thermal Bath are the two most popular. With a ticket , you’ll have access to the baths and can also arrange spa treatments like a massage.

If you’re planning a visit to Budapest in summer, avoid the crowds and plan ahead . The baths are a major draw for visitors and can sell out during popular times.

Traveling to Budapest soon?

I had a comfortable stay and fantastic service at the Radisson Blu Beke . Research and book other great Budapest hotels on Hotels.com  or Booking.com .

Visit Budapest’s Religious Sites.

Visit St. Stephen’s Basilica and D ohany Street Synagogue for a look at Budapest’s prominent religious structures. The architecture is unusual and the history, particularly of Budapest’s Jewish residents, is fascinating.

In fact, the Dohany Street Synagogue is the largest in all of Europe and the 2nd largest in the world. If you’ve traveled to other European countries and visited World War II sites like those in Normandy , it’s an altogether different perspective to what citizens of Budapest experienced, especially the Jewish population. The Dohany Street Synagogue played witness to all of this and more.

Walk along Andrassy Avenue.

Andrassy Avenue is a place in Budapest where you can see the mix of old and modern. Just a walk along the avenue is an architectural tour from the renovated and refreshed, as well as mansions that are crumbling.

It’s along this walk where you can see both the grittiness and rebirth of Budapest over the past decades. The State Opera House is along Andrassy Avenue and guided tours are also possible. It’s absolutely one of the most gorgeous buildings you will ever see.

Visit Budapest’s Most Iconic Square.

At the end of Andrassy Avenue where City Park begins is Heroes Square. The arc-shaped memorial centered around a tall column with the Archangel Gabriel on top remembers the 7 Hungarian tribes and their leaders who established the country of Hungary.

It was constructed in 1896 to commemorate the 1000th anniversary of these tribes conquering the land of what is now modern-day Hungary. Today, it’s one of the most visited and most photographed squares in Budapest. In 2002, Heroes Square and Andrassy Avenue were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Swoon over Budapest at Night!

After dark, be sure to see Budapest’s city lights from the water . It’s easily one of the best things to do in Budapest!

Boats operate from piers along the Pest side of the Danube. You can and should pre-arrange to take a sightseeing tour that loops past Budapest’s main sights and under its bridges or opt for a lengthier cruise with music and drinks.

No matter how many days you have in Budapest, seeing the city from the water at night is a must. Have your camera ready! Budapest absolutely sparkles at night!

Spend a Night Out in Budapest’s Ruins Bars.

Wondering what to do in the evening in Budapest? After seeing the city dazzle from the water, have a Hungarian Beer at the Budapest Ruins Bars . The touristy but, still, fun Szimpla Kert plays different music in each room and the decor is fashioned with old computers, a car, and other odd salvage bits.  

Getting To & Into Budapest

Budapest’s main train station is Keleti. Trains from Vienna are 2 1/2 hours while trains from Prague are just under 7 hours long. As you research your train options, plan to buy your train tickets ahead of time , as prices tend to go up the closer the departure date gets.

I’d read a few reports about Keleti Train Station’s sketchiness, particularly because of pickpockets. I’ve been through this station twice, once as a solo female traveler, and never felt unsafe. Still, it’s always important to be alert and keep your belongings within reach at all times.

If you’re arriving by plane, train, or cruise, book a transfer with Welcome Pickups . I’ve used them repeatedly for my transfers in Europe and around the world and have always had a great experience.

Never hail a taxi or get in a taxi parked at a taxi stand outside. There are numerous taxi scams to be aware of in Budapest. The best way to avoid this is to book your transfer in advance as mentioned above, use an app like Bolt (Uber in Budapest), or have your hotel arrange a pickup.

If you’re arriving at the airport, Budapest has also added a shuttle bus to transfer to the city center.

The 100E bus takes visitors from the airport to the Deák Ferenc tér central metro station. You can purchase a ticket for 3€ or 900 HUF at the vending machine or at a customer service desk in the arrivals area of the airport. Then wait for the bus between 5 a.m and half past midnight at the BKK stop conveniently situated between the arrival terminals.

Where to Eat in Budapest 

Visit the Great Market Hall  and walk through aisle after aisle of fresh meats, bread, and produce. Head to the upper level to order a Langos and other Hungarian specialties, like Goulash. The market is as much a sight to see, as it is a place where locals shop for food. 

You can enhance your authentic Budapest foodie experience by   joining locals for a Hungarian dinner or cooking classes. 

Enjoy Budapest’s colorful food scene with everything from Hungarian classics to restaurants serving cuisine from around the globe. Of course, you’ll want to taste some local specialties like roasted meats and hearty meat and bean soups served at favorites like Kispiac Biztro.

The area in and around the Ruins Bars is also a foodie area of Budapest. You’ll find cuisine that ranges from traditional Hungarian to tacos to Kosher vegetarian. Trofea Grill is not far from the Ruins Bars and has an eclectic array of foods from all over the world.

Where to Stay in Budapest

Staying along the Danube or within a 5-10 minute walk to the river will give you the best access to the sights you’ll want to visit on both the Buda and Pest sides of the city. The #2 tram also runs along the river and is a quick and easy way to get from Parliament to the Great Market Hall.

There are several well-situated properties if you’re hoping to use hotel points for award nights. IHG’s Intercontinental and the Budapes t Marriott are right along the shores of the Danube.

Hotel Clark Budapest and the Hotel Moments Budapest are also highly-rated and centrally located.

We stayed at the Radisson Blu Beke Hotel . It was a 10-minute walk to Parliament. The hotel lobby was open and bright, the staff was super helpful, and the rooms were comfortable. Since my stay, the rooms have been updated and are more in line with other Radisson Blu hotels where I’ve stayed.

If you have Radisson points, you can redeem them for a stay.

Travel Guide for Budapest FAQs

How many days is recommended in budapest.

For a first trip to Budapest, I recommend 3 days. This will allow you to see the city’s sights and spend part or all of a day relaxing at one of the thermal bath spas. With careful planning and a constant pace, it’s possible to see Budapest’s main sights in only 2 days.

What is the best month to travel to Budapest?

The months of May, June, September, and October are the best months to travel to Budapest. The weather is pleasant and the crowds of summer have eased. That being said, I did once visit Budapest in February, and although it was chilly, prices were lower and there was never a line to wait in. Not to mention, the Hungarian cuisine is perfect for warming you up on a cold winter’s day.

Is Budapest expensive?

Visiting Budapest is much less expensive when compared to other European cities. In particular, the costs for a hotel and food are quite affordable.

Is Budapest safe?

Yes, overall, Budapest is safe. You should still remain alert, though. Like other touristy cities, Budapest does have petty crimes like pickpocketing and scams.

Is Budapest worth visiting?

Absolutely, yes! The city is full of history, gorgeous architecture, and a vibrant cultural scene. If you’re planning a trip to Eastern Europe, in particular, add Budapest to your itinerary!

Bottom Line: Visiting Budapest is Unforgettable!

Budapest is a gorgeous city with incredible history and architecture. It’s not to be missed when planning a trip to Eastern Europe. Even long after your trip is done, Budapest will still dazzle in your memories!

So, what questions do you have about this travel guide for Budapest?

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56 thoughts on “travel guide for budapest: a cheat sheet for first-timers”.

stunning Pictures of castle!! looks like an amazing place.lots of useful information you have shared. Appreciative Work.

Thanks so much, Maggie. Budapest is such a great city. Thanks for commenting. 🙂

Hi Jackie! I went to Budapest a few years ago and loved it. You’re right once you visit it, you already make plans to visit it again. Went to a medieval restaurant and had great food there and also tried local desserts, sooo good! Can’t wait to visit again. So glad you wrote about Budapest.

Hi, Melanie! I’m so happy to hear you went to Budapest and loved it! No doubt the food you had was delicious! I was actually excited to find there is a Hungarian food truck here in NYC. 🙂 Will definitely be heading back to Budapest!

Budapest is one city I would really love to visit! Your photo of the rose is so evocative!

Thanks, Carol. 🙂 You’re sure to love Budapest when you make it. Great sights, delicious food, and fascinating history.

Budapest is stunning. I went there a couple of years ago for a few days. Although it was a work trip, I managed to use a good amount of time to explore the city.

The views from the top of the hill are beautiful. Also did the Parliament tour and although it was a bit short, it was a great to see it from the inside. What an amazing building.

I found the city great for walking as well.

So well said, Hugo! I thought the city was made for walking as well and would love to go back again and really just stroll through and explore different areas and quieter streets. 🙂

Budapest looks so gorgeous. I’m really going to try and finally make it there when I’m in Europe this fall. The Parliament building is stunning!

Oh, Mags, you’ll be happy you did! Budapest is great! Definitely worth using some of your time in Europe to explore Budapest. 🙂

Budapest is one of my favourite cities and after two visits there are still a few things on your list that I have not seen. Just means I’ll have to return again 🙂 Thanks for linking up this post with #TheWeeklyPostcard

It’s never a bad thing to have a reason to return somewhere, Lyn, especially a gorgeous city like Budapest! ?

You’ve described it very well. Budapest is vibrant and there’s always something to do and see. We’ve enjoyed Gellert, the local food and the views all around this city too. Definitely worth a visit for a couple of days. PS: we liked Budapest a lot more than Prague…a bit boring… 😉

Definitely worth a few days of a European itinerary, Jempi. You’re so right when you mention the pulse of Budapest. It feels really alive and trendy. 🙂

Hmm, haven’t made it to Budapest yet but it looks gorgeous in your pretty pictures!

Thanks so much, Lotte. Add Budapest to your European must-sees for sure. It is a true gem of a city. 🙂

Brilliant. Thanks for this – we are going to attempt Budapest with toddlers in the next year. It’s been on the top of my travel wish list for a little while now. Thanks

Great, Katy! The #2 tram is cheap and easy to hop on and off and will leave you with convenient access to most sights. Really easy to manage with the kiddos! 🙂

This guide is just what I need as I plan a trip around Central Europe. I can’t wait to visit some of the famous thermal baths!

Fantastic, Brianna! Definitely have 2-3 days for Budapest, especially if you want to linger for a half day at the baths. Have a great trip! 🙂

Very interesting! Would love to see your posts in the Practical Mondays Link Up:)

Thanks so much! I’ll be sure to check out the link Up. Thanks for the invite. 🙂

That is one heck of a packed itinerary and you’ve picked great things to do. My favourite are the baths – I’ve checked out just about every thermal bath in Budapest and never get tired of them. Concerts are another great activity in this musical city for sure.

That’s 1 thing we wish we had done, Carol! We went to a jazz club in Prague and a classical concert in Vienna but didn’t have time to fit it in… We did spend a night in the ruins bars debating politics with a NATO soldier, but that’s a whole different story (lol)! 🙂

Excellent tips, Jackie. We visited Budapest last year and the city has so much to offer that it’s hard to decide what to fit in. Definitely agree about staying near the river. We stayed at the Budapest Marriott and were really happy with our decision. Thanks for linking to #TheWeeklyPostcard.

Thanks, Linda! I saw that Marriott and it is very nicely located. Glad to hear you enjoyed Budapest and got to see many of its fantastic sights. 🙂

The story behind the memorial is really painful. I’m glad there is something to remember them by, and reminds us never to do something like that again.

I couldn’t agree more, Mar. The more you stand “in their shoes” the more the horror reveals itself to you.

I love Budapest, Jackie, and your post is doing a lot of justice to the beautiful Hungarian capital. I like how you caught the essence of what to do and see in Budapest and also I like your pictures. Great post!

Thanks, Anda! I’m in good company for sure. I just fell in love with Budapest.

I’m thinking about making a trip to Prague, Vienna, and Budapest in July or August by myself. I love to just wander and take photographs. How safe do you think Budapest is for a 60 year old woman traveling alone? I’m a pretty seasoned traveler and use public transportation to get around, but I’ve always had a travel companion before. I’ve rented apartments in France and Italy, but haven’t been to the east.

Thanks for reading, Robin. How fantastic to be planning a trip to Prague, Vienna, and Budapest! I took this exact trip in February and loved it! I found Budapest to be really safe. Even in February, there were plenty of people walking around and sightseeing. I took a free walking tour and the guide’s only warning was to beware of pickpockets. My advice would be to use common sense and keep your wits about you just as you would in any city. I would happily and comfortably return to Budapest on my own. With your traveling experience, too, you’ll really enjoy the city. It’s a true gem!

Thanks. Your suggestions were very helpful. We particularly liked the House of Terrors, the museum about the unbelievable atrocities the Russians and the Naziis wreaked on the Hungarians. It’s depressing but well worth your time. The cathedral is beautiful and the city at night is not to be missed. And don’t miss the market!

Thanks, Maureen. I’m glad you enjoyed your trip to Budapest! I missed the House of Terrors, so thanks for the tip. As a history buff, these museums are so interesting even if the content is hard to understand.

Planning a trip for September! Do most places take the forint? I thought Hungary was in the EU thus would use euros?

Hi Sandy, although some places take the Euro, prices are all in Forints. The exchange rate is better this way, too. It makes Budapest a very affordable European city to visit. Forints are easy to get once you arrive.

A friend and I are going to Budapest next month and would love to take an evening boat trip to see the Parliament building lit up. But I’ve read that the boats don’t start running until April Do you know if this is true? Your photos are lovely and we can’t wait to visit.

Hi MagsA, Thanks for reading. From my experience, this is not true. I was there in February and took a night boat ride. It was cold but gorgeous. An absolute must while in Budapest. 🙂 Happy travels!

That’s a really great cheat sheet, It seems to us you know our beloved city as well. Thank you for coming and sharing your deep experiences. You are always welcome back. And great pics, btw.

Thanks so much for your kind words. I loved Budapest and hope to return someday. Please understand, while I appreciate your suggestions, I do not post comments with links in them, so have edited the last line of your comment. Thank you again for reading. 🙂

I loved my trip to Budapest last fall. We enjoyed the cave tour where Vlad the Impaler was imprisoned, under the castle on the Buda side. Spooky. We found several great self-guided walking tours. (LINK EDITED OUT) We were lucky to see the Christmas markets as well.

Thanks for reading, Baranie. So glad you had a great trip to Budapest! 🙂

We will be in Budapest for a few days in 2020 and this was by far the best information I have read about visiting for the fist time, Thank you so much for all the wonderful information and the stunning pictures,

Thanks for reading, April. So glad the post will be helpful for your Budapest trip in 2020. It’s a fantastic city! Happy travels. 🙂

Great article, glad to see that I’m not the only one in love with the city.

I wouldn’t recommend Apostolok restaurant though, it’s a tourist trap. Use Google maps to check the ratings and reviews and you can find a good place to eat anywhere in the city.

Or pick from these : Kiosk, Divin porcello, Gettó Gulyás, Kazimír bistro, Fat mama, Tukory… The food scene is amazing in Budapest

Thanks for reading, Matyas. Great restaurant tips and couldn’t agree more about the amazing food scene in Budapest.

Your transportation segment needs to be updated. From the airport, there’s now a shuttle bus, leaving every 20 minutes, that gets you into town in @ 30 minutes. Cost is $3.

Thanks for reading, Rich. I appreciate the info. Yes, the post is scheduled for an update. 🙂

Hi Jackie – we found your article very helpful. Thank you. One concern I have is that I am not a lover of meat or game type menu’s. I know in this part of the world they are not very health conscious, but could you recommend a great place for optional items that might be more health generated such as some gluten free or vegan options or we love fish. Just trying to find a variety on the menu instead of so much meat/potatoes. I know this is a tall order…thank you so much.

Thanks for reading, Cindy. Unfortunately, I can’t recommend a specific restaurant but I can tell you I’m a vegetarian and had no problem finding great food to eat. Budapest has a fantastic food scene. So, even if you’re not looking for traditional food which does include a lot of meat, there are all kinds of cuisine options, not to mention vegetarian alternatives for classic Hungarian dishes. Thank you again for reading! Happy eating in Budapest. 🙂

Thanks, Jackie. I’m headed to Budapest next fall with my wife. Your information and ideas will help make our four days fruitful!

Thanks for reading, Bob. 🙂 Enjoy Budapest!

Thanks for the information Jackie, me and my wife are going next week for a few days and we’re both really looking forward to visiting this lovely city.

Thanks so much for reading, Paul. Enjoy Budapest.

Planning to visit Budapest and Debrecen. Bookmarking this article for when I get to Budapest.

Thanks for reading and bookmarking, Sarah.

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Lawmakers approved a giant new tranche of support for Ukraine late last night after a tortured passage through the U.S. Congress, where it was nearly derailed by right-wing resistance in the House.

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The aid package drew overwhelming bipartisan support , reflecting broad consensus.

The vote to resume U.S. military support was met with relief in Ukraine .

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We aim to make transcripts available the next workday after an episode’s publication. You can find them at the top of the page.

Special thanks to Catie Edmondson .

The Daily is made by Rachel Quester, Lynsea Garrison, Clare Toeniskoetter, Paige Cowett, Michael Simon Johnson, Brad Fisher, Chris Wood, Jessica Cheung, Stella Tan, Alexandra Leigh Young, Lisa Chow, Eric Krupke, Marc Georges, Luke Vander Ploeg, M.J. Davis Lin, Dan Powell, Sydney Harper, Mike Benoist, Liz O. Baylen, Asthaa Chaturvedi, Rachelle Bonja, Diana Nguyen, Marion Lozano, Corey Schreppel, Rob Szypko, Elisheba Ittoop, Mooj Zadie, Patricia Willens, Rowan Niemisto, Jody Becker, Rikki Novetsky, John Ketchum, Nina Feldman, Will Reid, Carlos Prieto, Ben Calhoun, Susan Lee, Lexie Diao, Mary Wilson, Alex Stern, Dan Farrell, Sophia Lanman, Shannon Lin, Diane Wong, Devon Taylor, Alyssa Moxley, Summer Thomad, Olivia Natt, Daniel Ramirez and Brendan Klinkenberg.

Our theme music is by Jim Brunberg and Ben Landsverk of Wonderly. Special thanks to Sam Dolnick, Paula Szuchman, Lisa Tobin, Larissa Anderson, Julia Simon, Sofia Milan, Mahima Chablani, Elizabeth Davis-Moorer, Jeffrey Miranda, Renan Borelli, Maddy Masiello, Isabella Anderson and Nina Lassam.

Marc Santora has been reporting from Ukraine since the beginning of the war with Russia. He was previously based in London as an international news editor focused on breaking news events and earlier the bureau chief for East and Central Europe, based in Warsaw. He has also reported extensively from Iraq and Africa. More about Marc Santora

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