2010 dodge journey sxt blend door actuator location

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Blend Door Actuator Calibration

By Gerix June 30, 2020 in Climate Control

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Hey guys! I'm brand new here but it seems like there are a lot of folks out there with similar issues and I'm hoping I can get some input from the group.

I'm replacing the blend door actuator on the passenger side that controls the cold/hot air. I have the old one out, have the new on in but I cant figure out the best way to calibrate the new one to the system. Basically, I need to have the new actuator in the exact position that the old one died in AND have the touchscreen temperature match that position as well. Am I over-thinking this? What's the best way to get this new actuator calibrated with the position the system is currently in?

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found this on goggle dont know if it really works ..good luck...............

Blend Door Actuator Motor Calibration

• Turn ignition key to the on position and turn on the HVAC system.
• Move the key to the off position.
• Open hood (bonnet for the RHD guys) and locate fuse #15 in the fuse box next to the battery.
• Remove the fuse and wait 1-2 minutes for any capacitive charges in the system to dissipate.
• Replace the fuse.
• Turn the ignition key to the on position. You can now watch the motors move as the system goes through the calibration routine. Leave the key on for a couple of minutes to make sure that the calibration routine is completed before turning it off. You will also be able to hear additional activity as all the doors and fan speed are calibrated.

You may have to run the cal routine a couple of times to get the system back to full functionality. If the position of the new door is significantly different from the point at failure, the system will successively move toward the new correct position setting. It may take two or three cycles for the system to move to the correct position.

• Mcgusto82 , thejeepdriver , Yogitech1 and 1 other

THank you. I also had seen this when scouring for information but it seemed like it applied to too many vehicles to be real. I guess I'll have to give it a try anyway! Thanks!

hope it works and maybe some one else will chime in on this,it has been discussed quite a bit on replacing one but cant remember anyone talking about it had to be calibrated

Following up here. I think this is the easiest way to "calibrate" the new actuator manually:

• Connect the actuator to the power connector, and just let it hang loosely. Turn on the car.
• Turn the heat all the way up on the climate control. This will trigger the actuator to go to "hot".
• Manually figure out how the blend door arm needs to be do deliver hot air (the arm needs to be all the way up and you can use your hand to get it there).
• Turn the car off.
• You now know that the climate control, the actuator and the air door are set to "hot". The arm connected to the actuator itself will need some guess and check to make sure that its in the up- most position when you install it and tighten the three screws.
• Once installed, turn the car back on and slowly turn the heat down to test the placement of the actuator arm. Once turned all the way down to cool, the cool air should be coming from the vents.

There's probably a way that the dealership could have done this electronically, but this worked fine for me. I hope it helps someone else.

• journey4ever , thejeepdriver and 2late4u
• 2 years later...

What is fuse 15. They are not numbered

• 5 months later...

Can you also tell me fuse 15

All I see is Fxxx numbers

• 1 month later...

Justor JeiGallo

For anyone who needs this information, the fuse for this is in the box under the glove box, NOT the engine bay. Third row away from the passenger seat, fifth fuse from the left. F109. Pull this for a minute or so, then reinsert and follow the rest of the instructions that 2late4u posted.

• 2late4u , journey4ever and jkeaton
• 1 year later...

Anthony Messina

My 2014 dodge journey has cold air on both sides when i manually start it. If i use my autostart the drivers side blows out hot, passenger cold..i have to turn the car off for 5 minutes and maually start which sucks in this heat. Cant seem to get an answer on this autostart defect or whatever is causing it. Does anyone know?? Please help

14WhiteRTRallye

This guy covers all the doors.

The one you want is at 1:30.

Got mine working by tapping the arm once. And another time, just wiggling the connector.

This is how to access the area. Ignore the filter.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=journey+cabin+filter+you+tube&mid=AD722A9776ECFBDFB9FCAD722A9776ECFBDFB9FC&view=detail&FORM=VIRE&PC=MOZB

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2010 Dodge Journey - how do I calibrate the blend door actuator after replacing?

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I've tried several things to recalibrate based on online threads for other Dodge products. Tried removing the fuse for the HVAC system - didn't work. Also tried holding the power and recirc button for 5 seconds - didn't work. Is there a way to do it like the above? Or does it need to be done with a Scan Tool to initiate the recalibration sequence?  

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A/C Blend door / Actuator issue - super confused

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I made a post a few weeks ago regarding what has to either be a messed up A/C actuator or blend door in my 07 charger with dual climate control and after much research I am still super confused. Recap of what the car was doing: For a month or so, there would be a rapid clicking / knocking sound in the dash anytime I would adjust either temp knob on the dual climate control from its current position. This sound would last for 4-7 seconds and go away, but the Air would work fine. If I just left it in whatever setting it was on next time i started the car and never touched it, no sound. As of a few weeks ago: No more knocking sound at all when I adjust the temp, and the drivers side temp knob does not change anything but the passenger side adjusts accordingly with the knob. Drivers side blows very warm and weaker then the passenger side, which blows correctly to the temp its set on and harder. The driver side will not adjust with the temp control no matter what setting its on, while the passenger side works perfect. The rear A/C vents seem to be blowing the same temp the drivers side does, which varies from warm to very warm. I tried the process I read about where the ignition is turned to on, A/C off. depress / hold defrost button, turn the Air to high. My defrost light never blinks no matter what, but the air does go through a short series of very faint sounds like its doing something. For the first few minutes after doing this, the drivers side air will blow slightly cooler then before (but not cold) and gradually get warmer as a I drive ultimately getting warm again within 10 minutes, while the passenger side stays consistent on whatever I have the temp dial set to. Am I doing the "re-cal process" wrong since I never get the blinking defrost light? On my dual climate control, I have the far right knob set to the dash vent only setting (all the way to the right, not the auto setting), and I am turning the far left knob (A/C power level) all the way to the right from off to high, while depressing the defrost button in the center. I dont have much money to blow right now so I have to try to self diagnose this. Ultimately I would like to drop the car off at a place, pick it up working and be done with it but funds do not allow. How many actuators will I need to order if the entire left side of the car plus the rear blows the warm temp? Are all the actuators the same size / shape or are there different ones for front / back / left / etc? Will there be anything on the current actuator when I pull it out that will be a dead give away on if its the actuator that is the issue or the blend door itself? Sorry for the big post, just trying to get this taken care of asap as I am going to be selling the car  

Hope someone answers..I have the same issue on my 06..  

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Ddaddy......thank you very much for the detailed response. That will deff get me going in the right direction to figure this out.  

You probably have this problem resolved, but I had a similar issue with 2008 SRT, which wound up being a broken blend door, part # 19 in the diagram shown at this link. I found this to be a great resource for parts breakdown for the HVAC system. Maybe it will help someone else. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com...=2007&ukey_category=20419&ukey_driveLine=7917  

Thank you for the info Ddaddy!  

I wonder if you all think I have the same problem, or something different? 2010 Charger Police, so NO dual zone climate control. With the Fan and everything Off, air is blowing through dash vents. Feels to be outside temp air. Just started doing this about a month ago. If I change the temp setting it does not effect the air temp coming through the vents. So then we had a cool night recently, so I turned the heat on, setting it to the lower vents setting and warm temp setting. It worked as it should. After I turned the fan off, but left the vent setting to the foot well setting, the air did no start coming back through the dash vents. So it seems it only comes through the dash vents (again, despite the fan in the off position) when the vent setting is turned to dash setting (the one with the diagram of the body with arrow point toward chest). A few days later it was warm (it's Florida, so we'll have a day in the 80's and then a night in the 50's this time of year) so I turned the a/c on max recirculate. I could still smell exhaust from cars in front of me, and real strong. I would not normally have smelled outside smells with the a/c in this mode, so I'm sure I was still getting the outside air. I hope to fix whatever the problem is before Summer comes back around. What do you think? Thanks.  

The actuators for the blend door, mode door and recirculation door are interchangeable (same PN for all three). The blend door mixes the hot/cold and is described in the previous posts. The mode door (driver side under the dash) routes the flow of air to the floor vents, defrost vents and dash panel vents. The recirculation door (passenger side under the dash ... behind the glove compartment and on the left side of the HVAC air inlet housing) allows outside air to flow into the passenger compartment, through the HVAC ducts/vents, or closes the inlet so the air inside the passenger compartment is recirculated. So it could be one of these actuators or it could be the dash climate controls. You can plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car OBD2 port and see if any DTCs are logged. You can try the self calibration, by turning the fan selection to full off and then moving to the auto setting, to see if it resets/calibrates the blend door positions. Some of the newer models require the dealer to perform a Actuator Calibration function in order to reset/calibrate the actuators. .  

"turning the fan selection to full off"? As in fan off, not full, then off? As far as "auto setting" I guess I can't do that because I have a 2010 Police car with the basic a/c, so no dual zone, no auto setting. Anyone advise if another way to calibrate, and what DTC's is referring to? I don't have my own scan tool and therefore am not familiar with all the acronyms. Thanks.  

Ddaddy: Those pics you posted from Service Manual. What manual is that? Is that a Factory Service Manual? CD, or book, and where do I get one? Thanks.  

Can someone really dummy down the steps for me on resetting/recalibrating blend doors/actuators for a SINGLE ZONE climate control (2010 Charger Police)? Or, do I just need to take apart lower dash and replace part? Thank you!  

Ddaddy - could you possibly post "23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL SILENCER - REMOVAL" page? Thank you very much!  

Thanks man! You have been a great help to me, often answering someone else's question but one I had, but hadn't asked yet! Thanks again.  

I've replaced the "mode door actuator" on my 06, single zone, beneath the drivers side and it is the rear of the two and a little tough to get to. I had my wife do it as she is smaller and could get in the spot easier than me. LOL.. Did not need to recalibrate just swapping them out. Griz  

Did not need to recalibrate just swapping them out. Click to expand...

Perfect, thank you so much. I'll give it a try.  

I tried the recalibration method twice, but unfortunately no-go. It was simple enough to try. So I'm hopefully off Monday (if the phone doesn't ring AGAIN), and will be working on removing old blend door actuator.  

All the actuators for the Dodge Charger (e.g. blend door, mode door, recirculation door) are interchangeable ... they use the same part number. For a 2010 the actuator Mopar OE PN is 68299450AA. They are not that expensive from the dealership so you can purchase OE. . .  

It states "most vehicles use more than one". You think that means interchangeable, and not that most vehicles have more than one installed? I see. I was reading it with a different meaning, lol. Thanks.  

It is the same module used in multiple locations in the HVAC system and all of the gears are crappy plastic that break all the time it seems. Griz  

I ordered one online to replace the one I think is bad in mine. If when I am in there and decide at the time to replace more, I run to the dealership and hope they have one in stock. Headed out there right now to remove panels and the old one. Thanks for all the help. Feel bad I kind of hijacked this thread. Hope it was all relevant enough to o/p's issues.  

I have the silencer panel off. Looking with a bright flashlight, I see the two actuators way over by the side of the center console. Can these actually be replaced without removing center console??? Even with my skinny arms??? I guess so because the instructions say nothing about removing center stack, and others have done it, but wow, they are waaayyyy back there!  

That's what I was saying in post 15.. LOL.. I believe it was an 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive with a little 1" or 1.5" extension on it and it is the rear one of the two for the "mode" door. An "offset" adapter might help, but I dunno.. It is tight in there though. Griz  

I definitely read that and was thinking I was ok with my skinny arms. Granted, I only looked for a minute or two so far, but it looks more than tight. It looks out of sight and blocked out but other stuff, and too far away. I have to take another look. Thanks for the tips! 2nd look: I feel like I'm going to have to be looking up at it. Sure would be easier with driver's seat out and laying down with my legs toward the back seat. I am not sure how I'm going to do this. I'm not super tall at 5'10", but I have to figure out a way to have my head down on floorboard looking up at the underside of dash.  

PLEASE, someone who has replaced these on their own, tell me how you positioned your body. For the life of me, I can't figure out how to contort myself to get to the screws. I'm 5'10, 140.  

I'm sorry to keep dragging this on. I squeezed under there again today with a bright flashlight, and it looks to me the screws are the plastic thumb screws? Like maybe I need needle nose pliers to remove them? The head is black, and looks to be plastic and not anything I can use a screwdriver on. I don't know if all the 05-10 LX's used the same fasteners for these, but the new actuator did not come with new fasteners and I don't want to destroy anything. My next step (hopefully someone here knows though) will be to parts department at dealership to see if they have listing for the screws/fasteners so I can see the head. The next time I have to do this, it'll be so much quicker! Thanks.  

This guy replaced his driver side actuator by removing the dash bezel. You don't need to do this to replace the actuator but it helps with the video to show the actuator replacement. Maybe this will help? .  

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Blend door actuator location

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I am having the infamous blend door actuator problem. I've searched and searched online and from what I've read there are 3 actuators. I'm trying to replace the one that controls the temp. No matter where i put my temp selector it always blows cold. I plan on tackling this myself and plan to make a write up since it has been so hard for me to find any info online, hopefully save the next guy some time and a headache. Anyone know where this actuator is located? I've read there is one behind the glovebox, one behind the radio, and one on the driver's side, but no one really says which is which.... Thanks in advance. 2010 Dodge Challenger r/t  

if it only blows cold you are more likely having a blend door issue, not an actuator issue. they are not that hard to find, just gotta take off under dash plastic and track down the duct to the blend door and actuator depending which side of car you are on  

What could be an issue with the blend door other than the actuator?  

The actuator spins and moves a plastic gear which controls the blend door, that plastic gear is a weak point and between my Challenger and 2011 Grand Cherokee which use the same parts in vents I've already replaced about 4 plastic gears and just 1 actuator. The blend door gear is about $5 and it tends to strip teeth or completely break into pieces.  

On the single zone system ['08 - '10] the blend door actuator is on passenger side and the temp actuator is on driver side. When you removed the silencer panel below the dash on the driver's side, you can see the actuator - sometimes the arm can break (plastic) or the actuator motor is non-op. Both are electrically operated - not cable or vacuum  

How about a 12 SXT. I'm having the same issue. I get heat for few minutes and than it get cold again.  

Thank you, the temp actuator is the one I'm looking for.  

Looks like my blend door actuator is working and the rod is moving but I'm getting absolutely no heat. What else could it be?? How could I tell if it's moving the door inside there??  

probably check to make sure the actuator arm isn't broken that moves the valve open /closed. It would be pretty rare to have an air pocket that is preventing water from moving through the heater core. I'd think that you'd have other symptoms of overheating if you had an air pocket in the cooling system.  

The arm is fine and is moving like it should when I rotate the temp from hot to cold and vise versa. I'm having no overheating issues at all  

did you end up fixing your issue? Tips/Tricks? The lower drivers side actuator is for selecting vent/floor/defrost. The upper one (hidden behind heater core lines) is the hot or cold actuator. I spent 2 hours fighting mine and cannot get it back on with new actuator. Cannot get the spinning piece to stay aligned and then fit the actuator in. So for now I manually put into the heat position and at least I won't freeze  

Did you ever get the actuator replaced? I have to do my temp actuator on my 2010 R/T.  

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