us travel lebanon

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Apply for a U.S. Visa

On December 4, the U.S. Supreme Court granted the Government’s motions for emergency stays of preliminary injunctions issued by the U.S. District Courts for the Districts of Hawaii and Maryland, which prohibited the enforcement of certain sections of Presidential Proclamation 9645 (P.P). Nationals of  Iran, Libya, North Korea, Somalia, Syria, Yemen, and Venezuela are subject to the restrictions and limitations. More information is available at this link:  https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/us-visas/visa-information-resources/presidential-proclamation-archive/2017-12-04-Presidential-Proclamation.html

If you are a citizen of a Visa Waiver Program partner but have received notice that you are no longer eligible to travel to the United States under that program, you should apply for a nonimmigrant visa at least three months in advance of your desired travel.  If you do not have imminent travel plans, you should pay the nonimmigrant visa application fee, fill out the DS-160 nonimmigrant visa application form at ceac.state.gov/genniv/ , and schedule a visa appointment.  If your travel is imminent, you may request an expedited visa appointment after scheduling a regular appointment.  Please include in your request the date and purpose of your travel, as well as a copy of the U.S. Customs and Border Protection message you received regarding your ESTA status.

More information about restrictions to travel under the Visa Waiver Program, including the requirement for an electronic passport, is available at  https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/us-visas/tourism-visit/visa-waiver-program.html .

Please be reminded to NOT finalize your travel reservations until your U.S. visa is issued. Administrative processing time may delay your visa issuance and travel plans.

As of November 29, 2016, Chinese citizens with 10-year B1, B2 or B1/B2 visas in Peoples’ Republic of China passports are required to update their biographical and other information from their visa application through the Electronic Visa Update System (EVUS) before travelling to the United States. This update must be done every two years, or upon getting a new passport or B1, B2, or B1/B2 visa, whichever occurs first. 

EVUS enrollment is available at www.EVUS.gov . There is currently no fee for EVUS enrollment.  Until a fee is implemented, travelers can enroll in EVUS without charge. The Department of Homeland Security, Customs and Border Protection (CBP) will keep visa holders informed of new information at www.cbp.gov/EVUS .

自2016年11月29日起，所有持中华人民共和国护照和10年期B1、B2或B1/B2签证的中国公民赴美前，必须通过签证更新电子系统（EVUS）更新与签证申请有关的个人信息和其它信息。此更新须每两年进行一次，或者在获得新护照或新的B1、B2或B1/B2签证时进行更新，以先到期者为准。

EVUS登记网站为 www.EVUS.gov 。目前EVUS登记不收费。在实施收费规定之前，旅客可免费进行登记。美国国土安全部海关和边境保护局（CBP）将通过网站 www.cbp.gov/EVUS 向签证持有人公布最新信息。

Welcome to the U.S. Visa Information Service for Lebanon. On this website you can find information about U.S. immigrant and nonimmigrant visas and the requirements to apply for each. You can also learn how to pay the required visa application fee, and book an interview appointment at the U.S. Embassy in Beirut.

This is the official visa information website of the U.S. Mission in Lebanon.

Nonimmigrant Visa Information

• Payment Options
• DS-160 Information
• Appointment Wait Times
• Photos and Fingerprints
• Visa Waiver Program
• Security Regulations

Nonimmigrant Visa Application

• Apply for a Visa
• Pay My Visa Fee
• Complete My DS-160
• Schedule My Appointment
• Change Document Delivery Address
• Track & Retrieve My Passport
• Apply for Expedited Appointment
• Renew My Visa
• Application Pending Further Action

Immigrant Visa Information

• Visa Information
• Check My Immigrant Visa Petition Status
• Immigrant Visa Wait Times
• Select Document Delivery Address

Local Visa Programs

• Travel Coordinator
• Group Appointments
• Diplomatic and Government Officials
• Visas for Applicants under 14 and over 79
• U.S. Embassy
• Passport/Visa Collection Locations
• Document Drop-Off Locations
• Bank Locations

General Information

• Frequently Asked Questions
• Holidays and Closures
• Rights and Protections
• Helpful Links

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Department of State

• usvisas.state.gov

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Apply for a U.S. Visa

• Payment Options
• DS-160 Information
• Appointment Wait Times
• Photos and Fingerprints
• Visa Waiver Program
• Security Regulations
• Visas for Applicants under 14 & 80 and Above
• Apply for a Visa
• Pay My Visa Fee
• Complete My DS-160
• Schedule My Appointment
• Change Document Delivery Address
• Track & Retrieve My Passport
• Apply for Expedited Appointment
• Renew My Visa
• Application Refused under INA 221(g)
• Visa Information
• Check My Immigrant Visa Petition Status
• Immigrant Visa Wait Times
• Select Document Delivery Address
• Travel Coordinator
• Group Appointments
• Diplomatic and Government Officials
• U.S. Embassy
• Passport/Visa Collection Locations
• Document Drop-Off Locations
• Bank Locations
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Holidays and Closures
• Rights and Protections
• Helpful Links

You are here: Home / Apply for a Visa

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How to Apply

Please confirm whether or not you need to apply for a visa. You may not need to apply for a new U.S. visa if you already hold a valid U.S. visa or are a national of a Visa Waiver Program participating country.

If you do need to apply for a nonimmigrant visa, please follow the steps below.

Foreign National Applicants:

You may apply for a nonimmigrant visa in any country where you are present; you do not need to be a citizen or resident.  However, no matter where you apply you must demonstrate that you meet all requirements specific to the visa you are trying to obtain, including demonstrating sufficient ties outside of the United States.   

Please be aware that:

• You must pay the nonimmigrant visa application fee in the country where you apply.
• You may not be able to bring an interpreter if you do not speak English or the local language where you are applying.  
• If your visa class requires the submission of documents, you may be asked to provide certified translations into English or the local language.
• There is no guarantee that a visa will be issued.  If refused, there is no refund of the application fee.  
• Following your visa appointment, your application will be either issued or refused.  If you do not establish eligibility for a visa, the consular officer may determine that the applicant should undergo further administrative processing to help establish your eligibility.  There is no guarantee of the length of time it will take to complete that processing and return your passport.  
• Once submitted, the nonimmigrant visa application and the application fee cannot be transferred to another embassy or consulate.
• Many embassies and consulates prioritize appointments for citizens and legal residents of the country in which they are located.
• There may be a longer appointment wait time for non-residents.

Step 1:  DS-160 Application

Determine your visa type by reading  Common Nonimmigrant Visas . Each visa type explains the qualifications and application items. Choose the visa type that applies to your situation.

Be sure to also review the  Visa Waiver Program . If your country of citizenship participates in the Visa Waiver Program, you do not need to apply for a visa if you are traveling for business or pleasure and will only be staying in the Unites States for 90 days or less.

Complete the  Non-immigrant Visa Electronic Application (DS-160) form.

Step 2:  Update Profile

Log-in  to our online applicant system to create a profile and select courier service options (if available).  Please ensure all your personal and contact information on your www.ustraveldocs.com profile is correct otherwise there will be delays in your visa application processing. 

Step 3:  Make Payment

You will be prompted to pay the visa application (MRV) fee using the payment options available in your country of application. 

Step 4:  Schedule Appointment

After you enter your MRV fee payment receipt on your profile you will have access to the appointment calendar.  Select a convenient appointment date and time.  Please note the number of appointments that may be made per MRV fee payment is limited. 

Step 5:  Attend Interview

Attend your interview. Take with your appointment conformation letter, DS-160 confirmation page, MRV fee receipt, current and previous passports, photo, and a letter explaining your travel purpose and itinerary. Depending on the visa category, you may require additional documentation and a reciprocity fee. Please refer to your  specific visa category page  for additional required documents.

Step 6:  Passport Retrieval

If your visa is issued, the U.S. Embassy will return your documents and your passport to you at the chosen document delivery address in your profile. You will receive an email and SMS once your documents are ready for pickup at the courier location you selected. 

Apply for a U.S. nonimmigrant visa

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• NIV Information
• NIV Application
• Immigrant Visas
• Local Visa Programs
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• General Information

Lebanon Travel Guide

Lebanon may not be a highly sought after tourist destination, but this little Middle Eastern country does have some amazing archaeological sights from Roman times.

One of the highlights would be the Baalbek ruins, which can be visited on a day trip from the Beirut area.

Read through this complete Lebanon travel guide for more info on what to expect!

Quick Facts

Arabic; 'Thank you' is 'shoukran'

Islam & Christianity

Lebanese Pound (LBP)

Visa on arrival for most nationalities

Mediterranean; hot, sunny summers & mild, rainy winters

Power Plugs

Type C / D / G

Uber, Careem

The only international airport in Lebanon is in Beirut (code: BEY), which has direct flights from other countries in the Middle East and beyond. You can shop for flights to Lebanon on Skyscanner.

Lebanon is a relatively safe place to travel, with some caveats. The UN violent crime rate is  4 per 100k inhabitants (36% lower than the global average), but terrorist attacks and kidnappings have occurred from time to time, so Lebanon may not be the best pick for solo travelers.

In any case, I would recommend avoiding crowds and practicing situational awareness. The other thing to note is that Lebanese culture is conservative, so clothing in public should be reasonably modest.

The climate for coastal parts of Lebanon is Mediterranean, with hot, sunny summers and mild, rainy winters.

The hottest months are July to September, but even in these months the heat is not nearly as severe as Middle Eastern countries like Kuwait or Qatar. Summer temperatures for Beirut generally don't go above 85 °F (29 °C).

The mildest weather for visiting Lebanon is during the spring or fall months, but any month of the year would be alright.

Lebanon may not be the most budget friendly travel destination, but it's not completely cost prohibitive either. Hostels are available from 300k Lebanese pounds ($20 USD) and private hotels starting from 600k . Meals are about 90k to 225k pounds depending on location.

Transportation in Lebanon is generally by motorbike or car, and these can be rented, but hiring a driver is preferable if you're new to the Middle East. Transportation apps like Uber and Careem are available here for short distance trips.

The best Lebanon tours & activities

My latest blog posts about Lebanon

How To Visit The Baalbek Temple Ruins In Lebanon

One of the highlights of my visit to the Middle East would have to be Baalbek Lebanon, with its Roman ruins and giant megalithic stones. This temple …

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Feel free to contact me if you have travel questions, comments, or suggestions! I'll try to get back to you!

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U.S. Embassy Beirut, Lebanon - BRT

Please follow the steps below before your immigrant visa interview at the U.S. Embassy in Beirut, Lebanon.

Step 1: Create a profile by selecting an address registration for document delivery

Selecting an address registration for document delivery provides us with the information we need to properly return your passport to you after your interview. Registration is free. Click the “Register” button below: Important: If you have already been interviewed or scheduled for a visa appointment by the National Visa Center or by the Embassy, please DO NOT schedule a new visa appointment.  

Step 2: Get a medical exam in Lebanon

As soon as you receive your appointment date, you must schedule a medical exam in Lebanon. Click the “Medical Exam Instructions” link below for a list of designated doctors’ offices in Lebanon. Please schedule and attend a medical exam with one of these doctors before your interview. Your exam should take place approximately two weeks before your visa interview appointment.

Medical Exam Instructions >>

Step 3: Complete your pre-interview checklist

It is important that you bring all required original documents to your interview. We’ve created a checklist that will tell you what to bring. Please print the checklist below and bring it to your interview along with the listed documents.

Pre-Interview Checklist >>

Step 4: Review interview guidelines

Read our interview guidelines to learn about any special actions that you need to take before your visa interview.  

Interview Guidelines >>

Medical Exam Instructions

All immigrant visa applicants, regardless of age, require a medical examination prior to the issuance of a visa. Only a physician accredited by the U.S. Embassy in Beirut can perform this exam. It is your responsibility to schedule a medical exam with one of the doctors listed below before your visa interview at the U.S. Embassy. Medical examination results from other physicians will not be accepted.

Approved physicians Dr. Sami Moukheiber American University of Beirut (AUB) Tel: 961-1-350000, Ext. 7696 (AUB), 961-1-362285 (private clinic), or 961-3-240450 (mobile) Fax: 961-4-972706 Email: [email protected]

Dr. George M. Azzi St. Joseph Hospital Dora, Beirut and Sacre Coeur Hospital, Hazmieh Tel: 961-3-553321 (mobile) or 961-1-888852 Email: [email protected]

Dr. Nadine Antoine Yared Sakr Mount Lebanon Hospital  and Sacre Coeur Hospital, Hazmieh Tel: 961-5-957000, Ext. 4500 (Mount Lebanon), 961-5-453500, Ext. 5211 (Sacre Coeur), or 961-3-363607 (priority) Email: [email protected] or [email protected]

Items to bring to your medical examination

Bring the following items to your medical exam:

• Your visa interview letter,
• Your passport,
• Six (6) recently taken passport-sized color photographs, and
• A copy of your immunization records.
• DS-260 confirmation page

Any medical examination fees, including x-ray and blood test fees, must be paid directly to the examining physician.

During the medical exam

The medical examination will include a medical history review, physical examination, and chest X-ray, gonorrhea test, and blood tests (for applicants 15 years of age or older). The United States also requires tuberculosis (TB) testing for all applicants two years of age and older. Please be prepared to discuss your medical history, medications you are taking, and current treatments you are undergoing. More information on general medical requirements for U.S. immigrants is available on the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s website .

U.S. immigration law requires immigrant visa applicants to obtain certain vaccinations prior to the issuance of a visa. Current immigrant visa vaccination requirements are available on CDC.Gov . You can also read Frequently Asked Questions about our medical examination requirements at Travel.State.Gov .

After the medical exam

When your examination is completed, the doctor will either provide you with exam results in a sealed envelope or send them directly to the U.S. Embassy. IF GIVEN AN ENVELOPE TO CARRY TO YOUR INTERVIEW, DO NOT OPEN THIS ENVELOPE. Instead, bring it to your visa interview.

Any x-rays taken will be given to you. You DO NOT need to bring the x-rays to your visa interview unless you suffer from tuberculosis (TB). However, you must carry the x-rays with you when you travel to the United States for the first time. The medical report must be less than six months old when you enter the United States as an immigrant.

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Pre-Interview checklist

Please use the list below to determine the items that each applicant must bring to the immigrant visa interview. Any documents that are not in English must be accompanied by a sworn English translation. You do not need to certify documents with the Lebanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs.  If you do not bring all required documents to the scheduled interview, visa processing will be delayed.

A copy of your NVC interview letter (does not apply to Diversity Visa, fiancé(e), adoptive, or asylee/refugee applicants).

Unexpired passport valid for six (6) months beyond your intended date of entry to the United States and a photocopy of the biographic page (where your name and photo are located).

Two (2) color photographs of each person applying for a visa (5 cm x 5 cm) in addition to the six photographs required for the medical exam. Please review our online photo requirements .

Confirmation page from the Form DS-260 Application for an Immigrant Visa you submitted online at ceac.state.gov/iv .

Your original birth certificate and an English translation.

Medical examination results in a sealed envelope (if the physician gives you these results) .

Your original and updated family extract and an English translation.

Your original individual extract and an English translation.

If any visa ineligibility exists, you must submit court documents or other documentation pertaining to this ineligibility. (Ineligibilities include but are not limited to unlawful presence in the United States, deportation, drug use, crimes and convictions, misrepresentation, etc.).

Original or certified copies of birth certificates for the petitioner if not already submitted to the National Visa Center as well as the birth certificates for all children of the principal applicant, including the petitioner (even if he or she is not accompanying).

Applicants who fall into any category listed in italics below should bring these additional documents:

For family-based visa applications:

• The appropriate Form I-864 Affidavit of Support for each financial sponsor along with a photocopy of the sponsor’s most recent IRS transcript, available at https://www.irs.gov/individuals/get-transcript . As an alternative, please note that you may use the combination of W-2s and tax returns instead of a tax transcript, but you must make sure to include your W-2s if you choose this option. EXCEPTION: K visa applicants should bring a completed and signed Form I-134 instead of Form I-864, along with the sponsor’s tax documents.
• Proof of your U.S. petitioner’s status (photocopy of a U.S. passport, naturalization certificate, or lawful permanent resident card) and domicile in the United States. If the U.S. citizen petitioner lives abroad, provide proof of their intent to re-establish domicile in the United States at a date no later than the beneficiary’s immigration.

For marriage-based or fiancé-based applications:

Evidence of the relationship between the petitioner and visa applicant (such as photographs, chat transcripts, or emails).

If you are married: Your original marriage certificate and an English translation. Marriage certificates for all current and prior marriages for both the petitioner and the beneficiary must be provided. Documents must be issued by the government in the country where the marriage took place. Religious contracts are not accepted.

If you were previously married: Your original divorce or spouse’s death certificate, and an English translation. Documents must be issued by the government in the country where the divorce took place. Religious contracts are not accepted.

If you are older than 16 years of age: The original police certificate from your country of current residence and countries of previous residence. If these three items are all true, you must bring a more recent police certificate to the interview:

• You are older than 16 years;
• You obtained a police certificate and submitted it to NVC more than 2 years ago; and
• You still live in the country that issued the police certificate.
• Applicant must also present a police certificate, if obtainable, from their country of nationality, if different from the country of current residence and if residence in the country of nationality exceeds six months.

For employment-based visa applications: Letter from your U.S. employer dated less than one month ago and proof of experience if applicable.

If you have ever been convicted of a crime: Court and criminal records, and an English translation.

If you are adopted: Adoption papers or custody documents, English translation.

If you are the petitioner’s stepchild: The original marriage certificate of the petitioner and your biological parent, English translation, and a photocopy along with divorce records for any previous marriages of either parent.

Do not make travel plans until after you receive a visa. Once you receive your visa and passport back, you should verify that all the information listed on your visa is correct.

Interview Guidelines

Sending documents to the U.S. Embassy in Beirut

If the U.S. Embassy requests additional information or documentation from you, the consular officer will provide instructions on how to submit those to the embassy. Please do not mail anything to us without being asked to do so.

Rescheduling or cancelling your interview

If you are unable to attend your appointment, please email us at [email protected] for instructions on how to reschedule your appointment online. There may be a significant wait before the next available appointment, so please attempt to attend the date already assigned by NVC. For some family-based and employment preference visa categories, a visa became available within the month you have been scheduled by NVC. DV applicants should be aware that visas are numerically limited and must be issued by September 30 of the program year. There is no guarantee that a visa will still be available on the date of your rescheduled interview. Please carefully consult the Visa Bulletin before you decide to reschedule your interview.

Security screening procedures

All visitors to the U.S. Embassy in Beirut must follow certain security procedures. Any visitor who declines to be screened by U.S. Embassy security personnel will be unable to enter the embassy. To avoid delaying your entry and that of those in line behind you, please bring only what is required for your interview. Please note that cell phones are not allowed inside the embassy, and storage is not available.

Accompanying persons

Attorneys and petitioners (aside from parents of minor children) are not permitted to accompany applicants into the waiting room or to their interview. Interpreters are also not allowed; we conduct interviews in English, French, Armenian and Arabic.

Only the following persons may accompany a visa applicant to their interview:

• Special Needs Visitors: Applicants may bring ONE person to help if they are elderly, disabled, or a minor child.

Immigrant visa fees

If you have not paid all required fees to the National Visa Center, please be prepared to pay these fees on the day of your interview. All fees must be paid in fresh U.S. dollars. We accept cash only.  Please note that if you are found ineligible to receive a visa, the application fee cannot be refunded. A complete list of fees can be found here .

Do not make travel plans outside of Lebanon

If your visa is approved, we will keep your passport at the embassy while we prepare your immigration packet and print a visa for your passport. You will need to pick up your passport from the SLS delivery courier service office, after you receive an SMS from them.

After Your Visa Interview

A consular officer can make a decision on a visa application only after reviewing the formal application and interviewing the applicant. There is no guarantee that you will receive a visa. Do not sell your house, car or property, resign from your job or make non-refundable flight or other travel arrangements until you have received your immigrant visa.

If more information is needed

Sometimes a consular officer is unable to make a decision on a visa application because he/she needs to review additional documents or the case requires further administrative processing. When additional documents are requested, the consular officer will give you a refusal letter that asks you to submit additional documents. The letter will include instructions on how to send those documents to the embassy.

Administrative processing takes additional time after the interview. Most administrative processing is resolved within 60 days. However, the timing varies based on the circumstances of each case. Before inquiring about the status of administrative processing, please wait at least 60 days after your interview.

What happens after visa approval

Passport, Visa, and Sealed Immigrant Packet – We will place your immigrant visa on a page in your passport. Please review your visa to make sure there are no spelling errors. We will also give you a sealed envelope containing documents that you must give to U.S. immigration authorities when you arrive in the United States for the first time, if your visa is a paper case. Do not open this envelope. You must carry it with you. Do not put it in your checked luggage. If you receive X-rays during your medical examination, carry those with you and give them to the U.S. immigration authorities.

USCIS Immigrant Fee – All individuals who are issued immigrant visas overseas must pay an Immigrant Fee to U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services (USCIS) prior to, or after traveling to the United States. This fee is for processing your residency status and printing your Permanent Resident Card. The only people exempt from paying this fee are: children entering the United States under the Hague Process, returning residents, and people traveling on a fiancé(e) (K) visa.

When You Should Travel – You must enter the United States before the expiration date on your visa, which is no more than six months from the date of printing. Your visa cannot always be extended, and all fees are nonrefundable. The principal applicant must enter before or at the same time as other family members with visas. Unless they are eligible for benefits under the Child Status Protection Act, children who are issued a visa before turning 21 years of age must enter the United States before their 21st birthday to avoid losing their immigrant status.

Getting a Green Card – Your Form I-551 Permanent Resident Card, also known as a green card, will be automatically mailed to the address in the United States that you write in your visa application form. This is a very important document that proves you have permission to reside in the United States. If you plan to travel outside the U.S. before your green card arrives: Please consult USCIS’s and CBP’s websites for rules about what documents you need to re-enter the country. We also recommend you check with the airline to ensure you are in compliance with their rules. Once your card is issued, you should not stay outside of the United States for more than one year. If you do, you may lose your status as a Lawful Permanent Resident.

Children’s Issues – In the United States, children are required to have certain vaccinations before they can enroll in school. We recommend that you bring your child’s complete vaccination records with you to the United States. If your child is adopted, you have full custody as a result of a divorce, or you share custody with another parent, you should bring a copy of all applicable adoption or custody papers from the authoritative court in your home country. You will need these papers (translated into English) for issues such as school enrollment, medical care, and eventual citizenship.

Information for New Immigrants – Please visit the USCIS web page for helpful information on moving to the United States. You can read their publication “Welcome to the United States: A Guide for New Immigrants” online.

Diversity Visa Applicants – Additional Information

If you are interviewing for a Diversity Visa (DV), all of the above instructions apply to you. Please schedule and attend a medical examination prior to your visa interview and gather the required documents.

Below are additional instructions that apply only to DV applicants.

Bring to your interview

In addition to the documents listed on the Pre-Interview Checklist in this package, DV applicants should also bring the following items to your visa interview:

• Appointment information printed from the “Entrant Status Check” on the E-DV website .
• Documents showing that you have either a qualifying high school education OR two (2) years of qualifying work experience in the five (5) years immediately prior to application (for the principal applicant only; more information is available online ).
• Payment in cash of the $330 Diversity Visa Application Fee for each applicant.
• Proof of financial stability (bank book, bank statement and/or proof of liquid assets), or Joint Sponsor’s signed Affidavit of Support (I-134), along with proof of his/her citizenship or Legal Permanent Resident status and a complete federal income tax transcripts from the IRS for the most recent year.

Review your DV Lottery entry

Prior to your visa interview, we recommend that you review the data on your initial E-DV entry. On your initial E-DV application, you must have correctly entered your marital status. If you are legally married you must have listed your spouse, even if you are currently separated from him/her (unless your spouse is a U.S. citizen or Lawful Permanent Resident).

Additionally, you must have listed ALL of your living children who are unmarried and under 21 years old. This includes your natural children, your spouse’s children, or children you have formally adopted in accordance with the laws of your country.

Failure to have listed an existing spouse or children at the time of your entry in the Diversity Visa lottery will result in the denial of your visa and visas for your family. Any fees paid to the U.S. government in support of your visa application(s) are nonrefundable. If you failed to include a child who had already been born, or a spouse to whom you were married when you entered the lottery, you should not proceed with the visa application. You can review the eligibility requirements online .

Last Updated: 2/21/2023

Contact Information

Awkar, off the Dbayeh highway Facing the Awkar Municipal Building, Main Street Beirut, Lebanon

Other Links

Diversity visa instructions After your interview Frequently asked questions Country Document

Interview Preparation Video

External Link

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What’s it Really Like to Travel Lebanon?

Adventurous Kate contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

When I decided to travel Lebanon, I had little idea what to expect. There’s not a ton of information on the web, and very few travel bloggers have traveled there or written about it.

It was a bit of a question mark. But that was exactly what I wanted.

My mission has always been to show women how to travel the world safely. At the same time, though, I’ve always felt the urge to be a bit different — to write about places that don’t get the same coverage. In 2010, that meant doing an extended trip exclusively in Southeast Asia (believe it or not, that was very unusual back then!). In 2018, that meant exploring places like Lebanon when every other blogger seems to focus on massively overtouristed destinations like Iceland, Bali, and Barcelona.

And so I went to Lebanon in May 2018. I treated the trip like a fact-finding mission and spent a week exploring the small country as much as possible, experiencing what it’s like to travel Lebanon as a woman on her own so I could share the results with all of you.

So, what’s Lebanon actually like? I’m glad you asked.

Is Lebanon Safe?

Lebanon is much safer than people think it is, not unlike many destinations in the Middle East.  The media paints the image of war, suicide bombers, and riots, but this is nothing like what you would see in Lebanon (or the vast majority of the Middle East) today.

Lebanon has had wars in the past…like from 1975 to 1990. As in it ended when George H. W. Bush was president. More recently, a 34-day war took place in 2006 between Hezbollah and Israeli Defense Forces. That was 12 years ago, when George W. Bush was president. There hasn’t been a war in the 12 years since.

The violence that happens in Lebanon today is random and somewhat rare — not unlike mass shootings in the United States. I would argue that Lebanon is far safer than the US in this regard, as there are far fewer guns in Lebanon and there are checkpoints and military personnel everywhere.

So what does Lebanon actually feel like? It feels peaceful. It feels normal. It feels quite a bit like traveling in the southern Balkans, actually — between the Mediterranean setting, war scars in the distant past, and hovering the line between developing and developed. Not once did I ever feel remotely in danger.

I took safely seriously. I didn’t travel to refugee camps or the unsafe far northeast of the country just for the hell of it, and after hearing mixed reviews from locals, I decided to nix Tripoli, which in retrospect was probably excessively cautious.

This post by Against the Compass is an excellent resource for travel safety in Lebanon. It’s updated periodically with the latest safety information. I encourage you to save it and take a closer look before your trip.

I also recommend checking out the  US State Department travel advisory and UK travel safety advice  for Lebanon. I find that the US warnings tend to be more alarmist, while the UK warnings tend to be more realistic.

Most importantly, travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — and to anywhere else in the world, frankly. If you need to be hospitalized with a broken bone or appendicitis, or if you have an emergency and miss your trip, or if you get robbed on a bus, travel insurance will help you recoup your financial losses. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Lebanon is a small country.

Almost everywhere in Lebanon can be reached within 2.5 hours of driving from Beirut. For that reason, I found it most efficient to base myself in Beirut and take day trips from there.

But beyond the convenience, Beirut is such a cool city. Most Middle Easterners consider it to be the most sophisticated city in the region, not least because it’s far more liberal than other parts of the Middle East. I was there during Ramadan and people were still drinking and partying in the streets. (In Dubai, you can’t even eat in public during Ramadan.)

Beirut is home to epic clubs, like B-108, a former bunker where the roof retracts and you dance beneath the stars. You can spend the days sunning yourself at beach clubs with pools or shopping in luxury at the souks. And yes, hipster neighborhoods exist in Beirut — check out Mar Mikhael, or specifically, Gourad/Armenia Street, which is full of tons of cool restaurants and bars.

I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez , which is a nice, if somewhat dated, hotel and is in a central location in the Hamra neighborhood. I paid around $75 per night.

Find deals on hotels in Beirut here .

Lebanon has little travel infrascture.

One thing that sets Lebanon apart from more popular Middle Eastern destinations like Israel, Jordan, Egypt, and the UAE is that there’s much less travel infrastructure. What does that mean?

There are hotels, but they’re more oriented toward business and domestic travelers. Transportation around the country is limited. There is essentially one company with that does day tours around the country and has a web presence. ONE COMPANY. And if you think you’re going to find a tourism office in each town you visit, you’re crazy.

Hell, Lonely Planet doesn’t even have a Lebanon guidebook — just a Lebanon chapter in the Middle East guidebook (which I downloaded to keep on my phone, and I recommend you get it for your trip, too).

That means that travel planning is more of a challenge, and most of your traveling will be amongst locals. That’s one reason why I don’t think Lebanon is a good country for newbie travelers, only more experienced ones.

Most of the other tourists I met in Lebanon were from Europe or other parts of the Middle East. I also met several expats from other countries who were based in Dubai.

Lebanon has outstanding Roman ruins.

If you love Ancient Rome in the least, you must check out two outstanding sets of ruins: Baalbek and Anjer. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Beqaa Valley. The Jupiter Temple at Baalbek is one of the largest Roman temples on the planet. You don’t appreciate the true scale of it until you’re standing in the middle of it!

Also notable are the ruins of Tyre and Byblos, both of which are perched beautifully on the Mediterranean. Both of those are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, too. Basically, if you’re into ruins, you’ll have a great time in Lebanon.

The driving in Lebanon is INSANE.

A lot of countries have crazy driving, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to a seasoned traveler. Lebanon is yet another one of them.

I always describe crazy driving in other countries as either Vietnamese-style or Maltese-style. In Vietnam, the driving is crazy, but the drivers all follow an established set of (somewhat ludicrous) rules. In Malta, the driving is reckless with no regard for any drivers or pedestrians. In my opinion, Lebanon falls into the Vietnamese category — it’s chaotic, but everyone is on the same page.

For this reason, I don’t recommend driving in Lebanon unless you are an expert driver who relishes driving in crazy environments. We all have a friend who is into challenging driving — this is their place to shine. If that’s not you, I urge you not to drive in Lebanon. You’ll leave with far fewer gray hairs as a result.

Red roses bloom everywhere in Lebanon.

That’s just a lovely perk of traveling in Lebanon. I doubt this happens year-round, but my trip in late May and early June was resplendent with roses. (Related: the rose emoji is very popular in the Arabic-speaking world. Think of it as the Middle East’s “100.”)

Lebanon is both very Middle Eastern and very European.

Lebanon wears many identities at once.  You’ll find mosques and churches practically next door to each other in Beirut. Some Lebanese people speak French and dress western-style, while others speak only Arabic and dress as their ancestors have for centuries. There is also a huge Armenian community in Beirut.

Byblos (Jbeil), for example, felt very European. With the fancy boats, high-end restaurants, and women in sundresses, their long hair flowing, it felt almost literally like Trogir, Croatia, or Budva, Montenegro. Only the souk would tip you off that you were in the Middle East.

But on the bus to Tyre (Sour), women were totally covered up and none spoke any English. That felt much more like Amman or central Turkey. It’s amazing that you can have both of these kinds of experiences within a short drive of Beirut — or even without leaving Beirut!

The Cedars of Lebanon still exist — but they’re a fraction of what they once were.

The Cedars of God are some of the most famous trees in the world. In ancient times, endless forests grew over the mountains in Lebanon. The trees were lauded for their strength and used for shipbuilding and later railroad-building.

But over time, deforestation took the trees away from us, and there are very few left today. I went to see the Cedars of God park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I almost wish I hadn’t gone — it just left me feeling so sad to see so few cedars left.

Hezbollah controls some territory in Lebanon.

Hezbollah is classified as a terrorist organization by several governments, including the US and EU, and they control some of the land in the eastern part of the country, including the Beqaa Valley. This includes the ruins of Baalbek and Anjer.

This might sound scary on the surface, and there has been violence in this region in the past, but for the most part, it’s a peaceful place to visit today. I visited on a tour (though you can also visit with a hired driver) and we went through several checkpoints, as is customary in Lebanon, but beyond that you wouldn’t notice any difference.

There was one strange thing, though — the yellow Hezbollah flag was for sale everywhere. It was like a souvenir. I did not partake.

To keep an eye on current developments in the Beqaa Valley and other regions in Lebanon, I recommend following this map .

Lebanon has lots of day trips from Beirut.

There are three primary ways to travel around Lebanon:

• Hire a driver.
• Take a group tour.
• Take public transportation.

I decided to try all three of these over the course of my trip.

Hiring a private driver is the best-case scenario because it allows you to time your visits for photography and you’re not on anyone else’s schedule. However, it’s also the most expensive. Most private driver rates start at $185 per day; I was once offered $150 per day; you may be able to bring it down to $100 per day if you have a Lebanese friend who “knows a guy” (and most Lebanese do). That was more than I wanted to spend as a solo traveler.

Because of that, I decided to just use Uber to get myself to Jeita Grotto and Byblos and back to Beirut. There was no wifi at Jeita Grotto (and I had no SIM card), so I bargained a ride with a local to get from the grotto to Byblos. Later, took awhile to find an Uber driver willing to pick me up in Byblos, but I eventually got one!

Here are some of the most popular tours:

• Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara — I did this tour and recommend it. See two sets of ruins (Anjar and Baalbek) that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then go wine tasting in Ksara.
• Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya — I did this tour and recommend it if you want to see the Cedars and/or a lot of mountain scenery; otherwise, I don’t think it’s essential. Know that the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cedars park is tiny, but a nice walk. Bcharré is home to an unremarkable Gibran museum but a GORGEOUS view; Kozhaya is home to a very cool monastery carved into the rocks.
• Byblos, Jeita Grotto and Harissa — I visited Byblos and Jeita Grotto via Uber/taxi but skipped Harissa. I don’t think it’s necessary to do this as a group tour; it’s close to Beirut. I preferred doing my own thing and having time to explore. Byblos is a gorgeous village home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Harissa has outstanding views down to the coast, and Jeita Grotto is home to glorious cave systems underground (and no photography is allowed).
• Tyre, Sidon and Maghdouche — I visited Tyre via public transportation and could have easily added Sidon as well; I don’t think this one is necessary to do as a group tour. Tyre is a great little city home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Sidon is famous for its souks and Sea Castle, and Maghdouche has some great views.
• There’s also an Anjar, Baalbek and Kozhaya tour that combines the ruins of the Beqaa Valley with the Cedars in a slightly longer trip. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have done it to give myself an extra day.

As for public transportation, I would have done much more of it if I had known how easy it would be! I simply got an Uber to the minibus station (Cola Intersection), asked for “Sour?” (the Arabic name for Tyre), and got pointed to a bus.

There are some unwritten rules for taking minibuses in Lebanon: ask for the bus you need; the first two rows are unofficially reserved for women; men do not sit next to women unless there’s nowhere else to sit; tell the driver when to stop and pay him on the way out. Women should dress more conservatively (long sleeves and pants) and wear headphones if you don’t want to talk to anyone.

Solo female travel in Lebanon is safe and wonderful.

This was the most pleasant surprise in Lebanon — that I received so much respect.  I didn’t know what to expect and was on my guard.

I took the bus from Beirut to Tyre, and I was told by my friend beforehand that the front two rows are unofficially reserved for women, and men don’t sit next to women unless there’s no other room. Well, there wasn’t any room on the way back from Tyre, which made me nervous. But the man who sat next to me left a good six inches between us on the seats.

Can you believe that? Men in New York won’t even close their legs on the subway, aggressively spreading out as much as they can. Lebanon almost made me cry with happiness.

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: A Guide

I also didn’t get stared at, which blew my mind. As a white woman traveling solo, I’m used to being stared at in the Middle East and many other places in the world.

It helped that I dressed more conservatively for the most part, including covering to my elbows, neck, and ankles in more conservative areas, though you could get away with wearing more revealing clothing in Beirut and Byblos.

I must include that Lebanon wasn’t perfect — just as I was marveling about what a good time I was having in Tyre, a man rode by on a bicycle and made kissing noises at me. Well. That happens pretty much everywhere in the world except Japan, so it shouldn’t be surprising. I get harassed three times on the walk home from the subway. It’s part of life as a woman.

Altogether: harassment was minimal, and I was grateful for that.

Lebanese food is DELICIOUS.

Middle Eastern food is outstanding — and Lebanon is often said to have the best food in the region.   As soon as I arrived, the first dish I had to have was some moutabal (roasted eggplant and tahini dip) with some mint lemonade.

Lebanon’s cuisine is based on mezze — small plates. You’ll definitely have pita with hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, grape leaves, pickled vegetables — and I won’t lie, often French fries. Next up is often a variety of roasted meats, especially lamb or goat or chicken, or seafood if you’re on the coast, with rice or vegetable dishes, or delicious stews. And the coffee is potent, served in tiny cups.

Almost everything that I had in Lebanon was delicious, whether it was a streetside shwarma in Tyre or a plate of square-cut, oil-drenched grilled calamari in Byblos.

Lebanon is also a fantastic destination for vegetarians and vegans.  You can always plenty of delicious plant-based options.

Lebanon has good wine, too.

Lebanon is one of very few Middle Eastern countries where you’ll find a decent wine scene. If you visit the ruins at Baalbek or Anjer, whether on a tour or with a private driver, it’s common to stop at a winery on the way back. We visited Chateau Ksara as part of our Baalbek/Anjer tour, and I would recommend it to others. Enjoy it!

You can go skiing and hit the beach in the same day in Lebanon.

I don’t even ski, but this is something I want to do sometime — go skiing and hit the beach in the same day just because I can . Lots of destinations brag that you can do this — Southern California, Slovenia, Andalusia — and Lebanon is yet another.

Don’t expect the slopes to be on par with Colorado, but there are a number of ski resorts around the country. Then come down to lie on the beach in Byblos or Tyre or at a beach club in Beirut. Just because you can!

Lebanese people are amazing.

People are amazing everywhere, though. I believe that everywhere in the world is made up of 98% wonderful people and 2% assholes. Most people are good people, and if they’re not, they’re probably having a rough day. Lebanon was no exception: I was warmly welcomed everywhere I went.

Arabic hospitality is legendary, though, and I was spoiled again and again by new Lebanese friends I met on my trip. Nobody would let me pay for a thing! It blew my mind.

I bought an orange juice from this mother and son pictured above, and even though they spoke no English and I spoke about five words of Arabic, we tried to communicate with each other as best we could, laughing like crazy. I’m pretty sure they tried to set me up with her older son, showing me Instagram photos of him perched in front of scenic overlooks, a dramatic pout on his face. (This happens a lot when you travel solo!)

To my great surprise, I was constantly asked if I was here visiting family. When I said no, people were often shocked. “But your parents are Lebanese?” they would ask me. (Come to think of it, when I was in Jordan in 2011, my guide Ibrahim told me I couldn’t pass for Jordanian, but I looked like I had one Lebanese parent.) And I feel like I met a ton of people who looked like me in Lebanon. Far more than usual.

Being ethnically ambiguous is hugely beneficial on my travels — I’m able to blend in far more easily than an Irish redhead could. But that has also led to wonderful experiences, where locals have claimed me as one of their own, declaring that their blood must run through my veins — “Look at your eyes! Look at your nose! You’re obviously one of us!”

Lebanon is best for experienced travelers.

I’ll be completely honest here: I would not recommend Lebanon to novice travelers unless you have contacts here, family here, or people willing to host you. It’s a beautiful country, a friendly country, and an interesting country, but it’s not an easy or obvious country in which to travel.

Let me give you an example: when on the minibus back from Tyre, the driver got to Beirut, got sick of the traffic, and decided he just wanted to drop me off in the middle of a major intersection. Lovely. I had to figure out how to cross a multi-lane street, how to flag down a totally-not-official taxi, meaning some random guy in a random car (I had no SIM card, therefore no Uber), and get back to my place from there. Not that hard for a seasoned traveler, but I wouldn’t want to send a newbie traveler into a situation like that!

At the same time, Lebanon is awesome, but it’s not a showstopper.  In my opinion, the true showstopper of the Middle East is Jordan. Lebanon whispers rather than sings at the top of its lungs, and sometimes that’s exactly what I want in a destination.

If you’re going to the Middle East for the first time, I still recommend Jordan above all. Jordan has the best mix of safety, outstanding cultural sites, natural beauty, a wide variety of things to do, and infrastructure for travelers. I think it outdoes Lebanon on almost every level, though I think Beirut is a much cooler city than Amman.

Jordan: The Perfect Introduction to the Middle East

But if you’ve already done some travel in the Middle East and you’re looking for an interesting new destination, and especially if you’re looking for a cool major city, Lebanon is a fabulous choice for you.

And at this point in time, it’s still a relatively offbeat destination. In an age where everyone is going to Iceland and Bali and Barcelona, Lebanon makes a nice change from everyone else in your Instagram feed.

Lebanon pairs well with some destinations — and poorly with others.

One reason why I visited Lebanon was because I was planning to visit Cyprus, pictured above, and the two countries are only a 45-minute flight apart. It was natural to pair them together! The two countries have so much in common in some ways, but are completely different in others.

I flew to Beirut from Amsterdam via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines, which makes Turkey a great destination to combine with Lebanon. Thanks to direct flights, you can easily combine Lebanon with a trip to Jordan, Egypt, or the UAE.

However, Lebanon does not pair well with Israel. You can’t visit Lebanon if you have evidence of Israel or the Palestinian Territories in your passport (and even though Israeli officials often don’t stamp your passport, Lebanese officials look for exit stamps from Jordan or Egypt). Israel will let you in with a Lebanon stamp, but expect to be grilled about your visit.

How to get around this? Fly into Israel and don’t let them stamp you. Or renew your passport before going to Lebanon. Or get a second passport, if your country allows you to do so (the US does). Or just visit Israel after Lebanon.

More on Lebanon:

13 Stunning Places to Visit in Lebanon

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: Is it Safe?

Essential Info: For my trip I bought the Lebanon chapter in Lonely Planet’s Middle East guidebook , which I downloaded on my phone and found very useful.

In Lebanon I stayed at the  Radisson Blu Martinez  in Beirut, which was a quality, if dated, hotel and was centrally located in the Hamra neighborhood. Rates from $75. Find deals on more Beirut hotels here and see all Beirut Airbnbs here .

In Beirut and sometimes beyond (as far as Byblos), I used Uber to get around. It was cheap and easy. I recommend getting a SIM card if you can; I didn’t and it made it impossible to summon Ubers when I didn’t have wifi.

During my trip I took three tours: the Free Walking Tour of Beirut (remember to tip your guide), a paid day trip to  Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya , and a paid day trip to  Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara . I traveled independently via public minibus to Tyre via Sidon (Saïda) and via Uber and taxi to Jeita Grotto and Byblos.

Bring good shoes to Lebanon. I have bad arches and live in comfy but cute shoes from The Walking Company . I strongly recommend black ABEO flats , which have fantastic arch support. I wore them every day in Lebanon. You might also like a pair of black boots  if you’re visiting in the chillier months.

Bring a crossbody purse that zips to keep your belongings close and safe. Amazon has lots of affordable options . If you want to spend more, Rebecca Minkoff makes some of the best . You can also check out my guide to the best travel purses .

Travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — whether you trip on the steps at Baalbek’s temples and break your ankle, or get robbed on a bus in Beirut, or if you have to cancel your trip due to an emergency, travel insurance will sort you out. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Have you traveled to Lebanon? Does it seem like your kind of destination?

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Lebanon travel warning: Smartraveller issues updated advice urging Australians to ‘leave immediately’

Smartraveller has updated its advice for Lebanon, telling Australians to take “the first available flight” out of the troubled area of the Middle East as “military action has increased in southern Lebanon”.

On Friday, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade website warned Australians about the developing situation.

“We’ve reviewed our advice and continue to advise that Australians do not travel to Lebanon due to the volatile security situation and the risk of the security situation deteriorating further,” Smartraveller said.

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“Australians in Lebanon should leave immediately while commercial flights remain available.

“You should take the first available flight and not wait for a preferred route.”

“Some airlines have postponed or cancelled some flights. Further flight cancellations and disruptions could occur with little or no notice.

“Daily military action has increased in southern Lebanon, including rocket and missile fire, as well as air strikes.

“The conflict could continue to escalate quickly or spread to other areas in Lebanon, including Beirut, with little notice.

“Beirut airport could close, and you may be unable to leave for an extended period.

“Airlines may cancel more flights or set high ticket prices for any remaining flights.

“Terrorist attacks could occur anytime and anywhere, including in Beirut.

“The Australian Government may not be able to assist you to leave in such circumstances.”

Smartraveller first issued a “do not travel” warning in July as volatility continued.

Since July, unrest has worsened, with tensions between Israel, Lebanon, Hamas, and Iran at an all-time high.

On Thursday, Israeli forces killed six Palestinian militants in the town of Tubas and a nearby refugee camp in the occupied West Bank, the military says, as a major operation in the territory stretches into a second week.

The deaths came just days after Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu said Israel would only agree to a permanent ceasefire in the Gaza Strip if it guaranteed the border area between the enclave’s south and Egypt would never be used as a lifeline for Hamas.

The updated advice comes as fierce protests continue in Israel, as citizens urge Mr Netanyahu to accept a deal and break Israeli hostages home while they are still alive.

If you’re an Australian citizen or permanent resident in Lebanon, you can register with the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade’s crisis registration portal.

- With Reuters

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