05 excursion won't start

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• 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties
• 6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain

All of a sudden, '2005 6.0L Cranks but won't Start :(

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Hey all, been awhile- Last evening after driving all day as usual, made one last stop (1/2) hour, left the barn and jumped in truck to go home- engine cranks mightily but won't start - arggh! Tried it a few more times and finally out of desperation just let her crank for like 30 seconds (thankfully healthy Diehard Gold batteries) and it started quietly and then ran fine. Took her home, no problems with power. Shut her down for about two hours- got another call and jumped in-crossed myself- and no start - arggh! Tried repeatedly to no avail. Threw my stuff in wife's minivan and did my call. Embarassing, but anyway... This morning still no luck when trying to start it. Cranks nicely. Talked to my gearhead (very nice guy) neighbor he tells me to spray starter fluid on air filter (I have K&N modified air system) and jump in quick and start it. Well, it WORKS! Engine cranks over a few seconds and fires up, quietly at first but then runs fine. He tells me to shut it down and try to start it right away.--- I do this and she cranks but no start. Put more starter fluid on air filter and she starts again. Thoughts about what may be going on? Anyone else see same problem? Electrical?/fuse?/bad pump? Thanks much. She is running now as I have run out of starter fluid and will need it to run all day I guess until I can get it to dealer (only if I have to)... Thanks guys. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Lowell (cowdoc) Wickman New London, WI  

Please see the thread below about the engine not starting when it is warm. The high pressure fitting can blow out to the point where the engine will not start at all - warm or cold. But running the engine on starting fluid will spin the high pressure pump fast enough to overcome some more severe leaks. Be aware that starting fluid is a stopgap measure, and the truck needs to be repaired soon... Also, glow plugs and starting fluid don't mix well. Please be careful with it...  

Leave out the part about the starting fluid when you call your dealer. They might not care for the idea and if you do this too much your motor won't like it much either.  

[ QUOTE ] Thoughts about what may be going on? Anyone else see same problem? Electrical?/fuse?/bad pump? [/ QUOTE ] Your High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) is going (gone) bad. Needs to go to dealer. Do not use "starter fluid" on a diesel. BAD things happen. Also you may want to rethink the K&N if you value the turbo.  

Thanks for the ideas all. It is in the shop presently and they are stumped. They have come to the conclusion that the engine is not sensing oil pressure and apparently oil pressure is what opens the injectors to give er fuel. Is this the HPOP? I will look at other posts to explain the HPOP. If it is the HPOP, is this a difficult fix? Am I looking at more than this afternoon, days? It is out of my hands, didn't run any more starter fluid in today, I hope no damage done, except they know at the dealership- as a diagnostician myself, I NEED to know as much as possible about treatments given by owners, to help me diagnose- I had hoped the information would help these guys find the source of the trouble. YET I have not been impressed, their computer does all the thinking, and unfortunately, their computer just spits out codes, it does NO thinking. These techs are bewildered and these engines are just no fun anymore. Lowell cowdoc.  

man id say if theyre JUST figuring out what the HPOP does its gonna take more than an afternoon for 'em to figure out where it IS, much less replace it !  

Fellas- I am just sick. Watching money go down the drain. The damn truck is THE number one tool in my toolbox, without it I make no money. So... at the risk of really pissing off my techs I did a bit of online work and found these two articles to be helpful, maybe they will help one of you too someday- Both relate to HPOP and oil pressure and such- http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-10.php and http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-05-17.php I printed off the articles and brought them to the dealership, on my pedal bike no less, apologized for doing their research, explained to them the urgency of my situation, thanked them and left. They probably had a good laugh and went to work on the other vehicles in the shop, but hey, gotta try something. L.  

After reading this forum for years, I would say it was the HPOP. Although, next time yor truck cranks but doesn't fire go out and check the battery terminals. I was in Tahoe one year and same thing happened to my truck. The cause, starter would turn but the computer would not let the truck fire unless it saw "x" voltage. Probably not the case, but, it is an easy check and there is alot of vibration up there.  

Cowdoc – I had the same issue on my 2004 E-350, 6.0L. The problem continued from about 75,000 miles to 121,000 miles. After many episodes of “no start” and not being able prove it to the dealership; the tech (EVS, Lomira, WI - see Tom) decided to install a device to monitor the conditions at the time of “no start”. Just like with you, every one here said it was the HPOP. Also, just like you, it was inconsistent - sometimes it did it when hot, but also did it when cold. The cold no start would not likely be the result of a bad HPOP. In any event, the “flight recorder” showed that there was good HP oil pressure while cranking, but sensor signals were not getting to the PCM to tell the injectors to fire. The repair was the replacement of the engine wiring harness. Unfortunately, Ford would not contribute to the repair. From 121,000 to the current 167,000 there has not been one failure — (knocking on wood here). It seemed to work for me. Good Luck. Ken.......  

I had an 01 Excursion that would not start hot...it turned out to be a check valve on the high pressure oil system.. if the system overpressurizes then this valve opens to relieve it...mine was bypassing and it would not close all the way not letting it build up enough pressure to start...that is what the diesel tech told me when I pick my Excusrion up...maybe your problem...  

The last one I had that acted this way was the IPR, had a little piece of crud in it and held it open. They are simply too complicated to guess, too many things can make them act the same way.  

Well, They replaced a ICP sensor, put it all back together and were apparently able to generate more oil pressure when cranking, but they were not satisfied and decided to replace the HPOP, and hopefully make the necessary correction with the TSB fix (bracket) at the same time. I have been whooped, and I will be setting everything back to STOCK as soon as I get the truck back. With my needs (primarily the thing must give me service everyday) I cannot afford the possibility of aftermarket mods messing up the truck... So off comes the K/N filter system and the SuperChip programmer will not be used again. Oh well, it was fun. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif L.  

Greetings, Chip probably is none issue. But I bet the HPOP will fix it. Mine did the same thing on the way home from MT.  

Well, Got the truck back later Friday night... The tech told me they had it all fixed however there is one "issue". He told me they have an exhaust leak at the turbo. They could not get the tubes to match up just like before and blamed distortion and warpage on heat. No matter how hard they cranked on the clamps, they couldn't stop the leak, nor the embarassing hissing noise associated with the leak. He felt that this may resolve as I drive the truck and the clamps and tubes work together with heat. We'll see I guess. Otherwise they will need to order a new clamp and that ought to resolve that issue. I hope there is no danger to me with exhaust in cab as a result. Otherwise the engine pops right off, perhaps better than ever before. I also removed the K&N Air intake system and the Superchip program as recommended by others here. Anyone want to by either? Cheap. We'll see how the truck does when back to "stock" configuration all around. Thanks all. Cowdoc  

You know, the truck shouldn't have been returned to you with an exhaust leak. Not only will it result in a loss of power, but the exhaust will find it's way into the cab while driving. Also, any components near the exhaust leak will be exposed to excessive heat. The y-pipe will not settle into the turbo and stop the leak on it's own. Recently, I had to do head gaskets on an ambulance. Becuase of the ambulance gear, I was unable to fully remove the cab. In an effort to keep things simple, I separated the y-pipe at the coupling on the passenger side bove the EGR cooler. I then remove first the left head, and then the right head with the y-pipe still attatched. It took a little wiggling to get it all out, but it saved me the trouble of removing the y-pipe in the cab. However, even though nothing was moved during the gasket replacement, the y-pipe didn't even get close to the turbo. So I still had to bow up and loosen the y-pipe to make everything line up. I would recommend taking it back and have them fix the exhaust leak. This truck shouldn't have ever left.... Glad you got the starting problem fixed. Was it the STC fitting?  

2006 6.0 powerstroke no start was driving my truck home and it was really rough. turned on a road and normally if i step on it it would blow out all of the carbon. well this time it shut off. this happened in november. since then i have replaced ficm, icp sensor, ipr sensor, hpop, and fuel pump and none of it has worked. i am stumped. can anyone help?  

kadunn said: was driving my truck home and it was really rough. turned on a road and normally if i step on it it would blow out all of the carbon. well this time it shut off. this happened in november. since then i have replaced ficm, icp sensor, ipr sensor, hpop, and fuel pump and none of it has worked. i am stumped. can anyone help? Click to expand...

The STC fitting in my HPOP went about 2 years ago. It was a $1400-CAN repair at ford dealer as It wouldnt start when I was not in my home town. They quote out about 10 hrs of labour to perform all the work, so while they are in there get them to repair anything else that may be problematic  

get a smart phone app so you can get and post your data. We can help with MOST things, but these trucks are complicated and with no data all we can do is guess. That can get expensive. Torque Pro or ForScan (I like ForScan because it reads codes the best of all I have found). Then get an OBDII ELM327 adapter (WiFi for i-phone and BlueTooth for Android. I like the BAFX brand. They work with most any app. Total cost $40 or so. Without it you will replace more than you need to - can cost thousands. In the meantime - - Verify proper oil (both too low and too high can cause problems). - Make sure fuel filters aren't clogged (drain the water from the WIF drain on the primary filter and see if junk comes out. Also, if the fuel filters have gone more than 10,000 miles, then change them. - Then (with a helper), remove the secondary fuel filter and have someone turn on the key (no cranking necessary). The fuel filter bowl should fill QUICKLY! - Re-assemble the fuel filter and then do the same with the oil. Remove the filter and have someone crank. - - The oil filter bowl should fill in 8-10 seconds. - Inspect the air "filter-minder" to make sure the air filter isn't plugged. - Make sure that the fuel inertia switch hasn't activated. - Verify that your batteries and all the cables are healthy - When you crank, make sure that you are getting over 150 rpm  

Wish I had seen your post sooner but I'm kind of a rookie at this forum stuff. Previous to seeing your post I ended up buying a scangauge for $169. I also just read on forums and watched YouTube vidoes and spend a bunch of money I apparently didn't need to spend as per your post. Tested my patients to the max. Finally I towed it to the local Diesel shop. They tell me everything they can see says the truck should start. Tow it again to the Ford dealership and after running a ton of diagnostics they tell me it's the injectors.  

I had similar problems once. Just out of the blue wouldn't start. Cranked until batteries went dead, charged em up, and nothing. Oil pressure sending unit wouldn't let it start (one on the left behind oil filter) replaced the part. Haven't had a bit of problems since. Maybe? Maybe not?  

The oil pressure switch has nothing to do with starting. It goes to the dash gauge and that is it. PCM doesn't even see it.  

Nothing wrong w/ a scangaugeII. You can watch up to 4 parameters at all times. Not as easy w/ a phone and a WiFi connection. Unfortunately, injectors are something that the average owner can't test well. You need an IDS system (dealership stuff). Go Pokes. I graduated in 1979 ....  

HA! Get out of here! What a small world! I graduated in 1990 and only left for one year and came back. Got the truck back yesterday. It was way more money than I wanted to put into that thing but it's good to have it back. Need to avoid the repair shop for awhile though! Good to hear about the Scangauge II. I'm probably going to keep that thing active in the truck at all times. I may even do the App you are talking about as well. Seems very handy.  

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Ford Expedition Not Starting: Causes + How to Fix

If your Ford Expedition doesn’t start, you’ve found the right article.  Many different issues can cause the problem.  We cover all the likely ones in an order that makes sense when diagnosing the issue at home.

This article is written with the assumption that you are looking for a way to get your Ford Expedition started now, and is meant to provide you with practical advice to help aid in the diagnosis.

First, is your Expedition cranking over at all (the engine spins when you turn the key?  Or is the starter not engaging (you may hear a clicking sound)?

Table of Contents

Engine Not Cranking

Engine cranking, no start.

Here are the most common reasons why the Ford Expedition won’t start when the engine is not cranking .

1.  Battery Cables

Start by taking a look at the battery posts.  If they are loose or corroded, it acts as a barrier that can keep the starter from getting the voltage it needs to crank the engine.

If there appears to be green or white on them or the terminals, cleaning them may be what your Expedition needs to get back on the road.

Here’s a good article from Napa on properly cleaning a battery terminal.

2.  Low Battery Voltage

As your vehicle’s battery ages, its cranking amperage decreases, leaving it with a diminished capacity for starting the engine.  Your Expedition needs 12+ volts to start its engine .  

You can take your battery to the local parts store or even Walmart and have it tested to see if it still holds a charge.  

Alternatively, you can test the battery yourself with a voltage meter.  If the battery is in the vehicle and it’s under 12 volts, it’s likely bad unless your vehicle has been sitting for a while or something is drawing current.

If the battery is dead, it either isn’t storing enough voltage or it isn’t charging enough.

A bad alternator can cause your battery to drain to the point it can’t turn your Expedition over. Suspect the alternator if the battery light stays on after charging your vehicle’s battery or jumping it.

3.  Starter Motor

The next thing to look at when your Expedition isn’t starting would be the starter itself.  When the starter isn’t functioning, it is impossible to start your vehicle. 

A bad starter can make a clicking noise, no noise, or it can grind.  

When a starter goes bad, they will usually not give you much warning at first. Try repeatedly turning the key. Sometimes you’ll get lucky and it’ll “catch”.  

Or, you can beat the starter with a hammer. It really can get that one last start out of it.

Here are the common issues that can cause your Expedition to crank but not start.  Your vehicle’s engine needs air, fuel, and a spark to run.

It is highly likely that if the engine is cranking but not starting that it has thrown an OBDII code. Use an OBDII scanner to check and see if the engine has thrown any trouble codes.  

The codes will likely be related to the potential issues listed below.  When applicable, we’ve listed the common trouble code(s) associated with the cause.

1.  Low Fuel Pressure

If your Expedition isn’t getting enough fuel, or any fuel at all, it may have a bad fuel filter or a bad fuel pump .  Without the proper amount of fuel entering the combustion chamber, the Expedition will crank but not start.

2.  Ignition Issues

One of the most significant issues that will cause a vehicle to crank but not start are ignition issues.  When there is no spark, the engine will not start.  You’ll probably have a misfire-related code such as P0300 , P0301, etc…

Many things, including bad spark plugs, bad coil packs, bad plug wires, computer issues, and more, can cause ignition issues. It’s likely your Expedition had a rough idle before

3.  Engine Timing

If the engine’s ability to fire the spark plug at the right time is called “timing”.  If the spark plugs are firing at the wrong time, or something has happened to cause the camshaft to no longer be in sync with the crankshaft, your Expedition won’t start.

There will usually be OBDII codes associated with timing-related problems, but not always.  P0013 is a common camshaft position-related code.  The crankshaft sensor can go bad as well.  When these sensors go bad, it can be impossible for your Expedition to start.

4. Security

Most modern vehicles come with smart keys that have electronic protection built in.  This makes it more challenging for thieves to steal them.  

There are occasions where this security system will cause the Expedition not to start, such as the key fob not working.  You’ll see a security warning when trying to crank the engine, though. 

5. Metering

MAF or MAP sensors measure the air entering your Expedition’s engine.  If one of them has gone bad, it can cause the air-fuel mixture to be off enough to cause the vehicle not to start.

6.  Other Issues

There are a lot of issues that can cause your Expedition not to start.  That’s why it is so important to check everything.  Here’s a great diagnostic chart that can walk you through diagnosing why a vehicle won’t start. 

Conclusion:  Ford Expedition Not Starting

There are many reasons that your Expedition may not start.  Simple tests such as checking the battery with a voltage meter or scanning it with an OBD II scanner can really narrow down your list of potential causes.

Home » Troubleshooting » Ford Expedition won’t start – causes and how to fix it

Ford Expedition won’t start – causes and how to fix it

Ford Expedition is a reliable road companion, but its a machine with hundreds of interconnected parts, and like any other machine it sometimes fail to deliver normal operation. In this article we go through most common causes of Expedition’s breakdown and how you can fix the problem.

The most common causes that hinders normal starting operation of your Expedition are dead 12v battery, corrosion on battery terminals, and dead key fob battery. However, bad alternator, clogged fuel filter, broken starter, blown fuse, empty gas tank, immobilizer error, or any fault in the electrical system can also cause your vehicle not to start.

1. Weak Battery

If your Expedition’s engine won’t crank or cranks very slowly, then the most likely culprit is a weak or dead 12v battery. Investigating more closely and doing a battery voltage test will clarify whether the starting problem is due to the battery. A test can be done to measure the voltage between the battery poles, check the acid level and assess the condition of the starter battery.

If a new car battery has been installed, the battery may not have yet reached its full capacity. There is nothing to worry about. A new battery only develops its full capacity over time.

Test 12v battery

The voltage of the battery on your Ford Expedition can be measured precisely with a multimeter. Before the test, the multimeter is set to the voltage range of the battery and connected to its plus and minus poles. Successful testing of the car battery, i.e. checking the voltage, usually results in values ​​of approx. 12 to 13 volts. Values ​​above 14 or below 11.5 volts require an expert assessment of the condition of the car battery. Because the battery may have a defect with these measured values ​​and must be replaced.

Jump start Ford Expedition

If dead battery is the reason for the breakdown of your Expedition, you can easily jump start it using jumper cables and a healthy battery from another vehicle, or using a battery booster if available.

First connect red cable to the positive terminal of your Expedition’s dead battery, then to the positive terminal of donor battery. Next connect black cable to the negative terminal of donor battery, then to the bare metal in the engine bay of your Expedition. Start the donor vehicle and then your Expedition. Remove the cables in reverse order.

2. Corrosion on battery

Corrosion on the contacts of your car battery leads to loss of contact and reduced current flow, which means that your engine can no longer start properly.

To know if your Expedition’s starting problems are from dirty battery contacts, you need to investigate them. If you lift the rubber covers over the two battery terminals, you can check the terminals for corrosion. If you discover white deposits or silvery-green deposits, but no further cracks or damage, you do not have to replace the battery, just clean it.

Clean battery corrosion

To clean the battery on your Ford Expedition, you have to remove the pole cables first, which requires no special knowledge, just a little concentration, as the order is very important. First remove the black cable from the negative pole. If the pole clamp is very tight, you can open it with pliers. We advise against using metal pliers, but if you use them, you must make sure that you do not touch any other parts of the body. Next you can unplug the red positive pole cable. Once the battery has been removed from the circuit, you can start cleaning the corroded battery. After cleaning, reconnect the terminals.

3. Weak key fob battery

If your Expedition has push start/stop button, then its possible that your vehicle may not start due to weak key fob battery. Don’t worry, you can still start your vehicle – the battery is only used to send the signal for locking/unlocking. If the key fob battery is empty, the door no longer locks or unlocks at the push of a button. The doors must then be opened manually. The immobilizer is controlled by a passive transponder. Passive means, among other things, that the transponder in the key does not need its own power source.

How to start Ford Expedition with dead key fob battery

If you have a model of Expedition which only has a key fob with start/stop button and no place to insert a key, then try placing your key fob as close to the start/stop button as you can and then start the vehicle. If it doesn’t work, then look in your vehicle’s operational manual for exact location of key fob placement, as it may vary depending on model.

Tip: You can try starting your Expedition with its second key. It will also rule out any other problem with the first key, for example, water damage.

4. Broken starter motor

A starter is a motor for starting the engine of your Expedition. The average life of a starter motor is about 100,000 to 150,000 miles, and the life will be shortened if the engine is started more frequently. In any case, since the starter motor also has a limited life, it will break down after using the car for a long time, and if the starter motor breaks down, the engine will not start.

Symptom: When you turn the key to start the engine of your Expedition, you will hear a clicking sound, which is the sound of a bad starter motor. And if the starter motor does not work with a healthy battery, suspect a malfunction of the starter.

If the starter fails, it usually needs to be replaced with a new one.

Temporary fix for starter

If the engine does not start due to the starter, the engine may start if you turn the key while hitting the starter motor with something like a stick or metal tool. This workaround is effective when the parts inside the starter are stuck together or the gears are slightly out of alignment.

However, it is possible that the starter is nearing the end of its life, so it is recommended that you have it inspected at a dealer or maintenance shop.

5. Defective alternator

An alternator is a generator that produces electricity. If your Expedition’s alternator fails, it will not be able to produce electricity and the battery will not be able to charge. Therefore, even if you think that the cause of the engine not starting is a battery failure and replace the battery, the battery will soon run out and the engine will not start.

Alternators rarely break down. In particular, modern cars have improved performance, so it is said that they will last 200,000 to 300,000 miles. Still, it can break down depending on how you use it, and in the case of a used car, the alternator may be quite old. Don’t let your guard down.

If the alternator breaks down, it must be replaced with a new alternator.

6. Clogged fuel filter

The fuel filter of your Expedition does not wear out like a mechanical part, but it gets clogged by dirt and airborne particles and clogs over time. The permeability of the filter drops, and so does the fuel pressure. To a certain extent this doesn’t matter, but if the fuel filter is too dirty, the engine will no longer perform at full capacity and in some instance may not start at all. Cleaning is not possible, you can only change the filter.

7. Fuel pump failure

If your Expedition’s fuel pump fails, then the engine won’t start. The pump normally ensures that the necessary amount of fuel is passed from the tank to the injection system of the engine with sufficient pressure.

Before your fuel pump stops working, it usually becomes noticeable: if your car’s engine breaks down from time to time, the car is difficult to start, the engine jerks a little or the engine performance drops, you should have your pump checked.

Wear or contamination of the pump can be the reason for this. If the pump is leaking, a power contact is broken, a line or a pump lever is broken, the fuel pump is usually also noticeable before failure. You can have a defective fuel pump replaced in your workshop.

8. Blown fuse

In rare cases, a blown fuse could also be the culprit in the breakdown of your Expedition. Check all fuses in the fuse box essential for starting the engine. But, be careful when lending a hand yourself to the fuse box! The box is under power and repairs or tests should always be done in a workshop.

9. Defective spark plugs

Without functioning spark plugs, the engine will not start. The spark plugs themselves are often not affected by a defect. Instead, plug connections on the ignition system come loose. If only one plug is actually loose, you can fix the problem yourself on site. If a spark plug has failed, it must be replaced in the workshop.

10. Rodent damage

Rodent damage can be another reason why your Ford Expedition won’t start. The animals crawl under the vehicle and bite through cables and wires. In principle, this can affect all vehicle systems such as the fuel supply, the oil supply or the power supply.

The rodent damage can usually be seen quickly by looking into the engine compartment. The damage caused by the rodent bite can be repaired in the workshop. Be prepared for relatively high costs here.

11. Engine failure

Although very rare, but it can also be the cause of the breakdown of your Expedition. If a vehicle has an engine failure, then nothing works anymore. It is not uncommon for the driver of a vehicle to be responsible for such damage. Typical causes include tearing of the timing belt, incorrect fueling, insufficient oil, hydrolock, overheating of the engine, or continuous driving in an excessive speed range.

Only an experienced mechanic can diagnose engine failure in a workshop.

Use OBD2 scanner for diagnosis

Since Ford Expedition is equipped with on-board diagnostics (OBD), a fault diagnosis can provide initial indications of where the malfunction is located.

To begin troubleshooting, you must first connect the diagnostic tool to your Expedition. The OBDII connector is usually located under the dashboard. With the wire connected, you should turn the ignition on. But be careful not to start the engine. Most diagnostic devices then ask for some information about the vehicle. It is important that you enter this 100% correctly, otherwise the result of the search may be falsified. In addition to the vehicle manufacturer and model, you usually also have to type in the engine and vehicle ID number. For exact troubleshooting, always check whether the information is correct.

There are many reasons why your Expedition may not start. When looking for the trigger, it is advisable to use the exclusion principle and only start with the most obvious cause, the empty battery.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to call a breakdown service or a workshop. In the event of a defect, the latter can directly initiate the repair.

We’re is transmission neutral bypass switch

I was changing my starter solenoid on the firewall on my 2001 expedition it shorted cuz I didn’t disconnect the battery now I have no power at all anybody know how to fix it

If you’re lucky, only some fuse is blown or the battery has died. Otherwise, you may have fried some electronic components/modules which could get costly to replace.

my 2000 expedition will not start. New battery when I try to start it all the lights and everything come on but it just will not start.

Did you find the problem mine is doing this.

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Ford Expedition

The Ford Expedition is a full-size SUV assembled by the American automaker Ford Motor Company. Introduced as the four-door successor of the two-door Ford Bronco, the Expedition has remained in production since the 1997 model year; it is currently in its third model generation.

Danny @cudang

Posted: Jan 30, 2023

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No crank no start issue

Hi everybody, hope everyone having a great day. I need some directions on go about trouble shooting my ford expedition 2003. I went to pick up my son from school last year, while I was waiting, I turn the engine off thinking nothing was wrong. After my son was buckle in, I turn the key to start the car. It crank and came on, only for 2 seconds, then it went dead. I thought must be drain battery, so we walk home from there, I came back with the battery jumper and it did not help. I car remain dead. All lights and signal still shine bright, no anti theft flashes check engine light on and car would not crank or start. So I hammer the starter and tried to listen for fuel pump. Nothing… no changes so I ended up towing it home where I remain working on it. I check sensors, I’ve change alternator and check starter, everything look ok. Finally I had a chance to check the wiring from battery to ground and positive wiring also. I even change the fuse box hoping that be enough. Still nothing. Unplug pcm and plug harness back in one at a time. The first one went in, no change, second one went half way in and I got starter to crank but still no fuel pump. Third harnest got same result. So I jump fuel pump relay and crank the car. Still doesn’t kick on. Now I don’t know what else to do. I’m lost and about to give up on the car but that’s my only transportation. So if anyone out there who has same problems or know how or what to do, please shared your thoughts and help me out. I can’t afford to take it to the shop, I barely making end meets… so I appreciate everyone for their time and efforts. Someday good will come to those who help others… thank you

Is this a good question?

Did you ever figure out what was wrong because this is exactly what we are dealing with right now

Jan 11, 2024 by Tina

jayeff @jayeff

Rep: 449.8k

Posted: Feb 3, 2023

Here's the starter motor wiring diagram that may help.

(click on image)

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3 Comments:

replace: the right size battery - alternator with chip - starter -all new fuses and relays check motherboard under the fuses -- new ignition switch - new neutral park switch. turn key gages move bells come on but no crank & start i can hear the relays in the fuse box. what am i missing

Feb 5, 2023 by Michael J Camillucci

@mike4850073

Use a test lamp or a voltmeter to prove that the wiring between all the components in the starter motor circuit is OK

For example:

If the starter relay operates check there is 12V on the yellow/light blue wire at the starter motor.

If OK check the earth on the starter motor is OK.

If they're both OK the solenoid should click and it should connect the battery directly to the starter motor and it should crank the motor

If no voltage at the starter motor yellow/light blue wire, check fuse 101 for voltage. If that is OK check for voltage on pin 30 of the starter relay etc

Feb 5, 2023 by jayeff

Did you check the neutral safety switch to make sure it's in the park try putting it in neutral and then try starting it again see if th

at works there's a shot in the dark

Jan 28, 2024 by Lee A Marshall

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When will interest rates fall? Not until November say big banks, as 'incredibly strong' migration makes the RBA's task 'more difficult'

Commonwealth Bank economists have revised their interest rate forecasts, saying they now don't expect the Reserve Bank to cut rates until November.

They had been expecting a rate cut in September, followed by one in November and another in December.

But after last week's stronger-than-expected  March quarter inflation figure, they say the only rate cut Australians will see this year will probably be in November.

Their revised forecasts mean the economics teams working for Australia's "Big Four" banks are now all on the same page.

They all predict there will only be one rate cut this year, in November, worth 0.25 percentage points.

CBA senior economist Gareth Aird says extremely strong population growth is making it much harder for the RBA to return inflation to target.

"Monetary and fiscal policy are working in tandem," he wrote on Tuesday.

"But incredibly strong net overseas immigration has put upward pressure on some components of the consumer price index basket. This has made the RBA's task of returning inflation to target more difficult.

"As a consequence, monetary policy is now likely to stay at a restrictive setting for longer.

"We now see a more elongated and conservative easing cycle than previously expected. Our base case sees the cash rate gradually cut from November 2024 to reach 3.10 per cent at end‑2025," he wrote.

The cash rate target is currently 4.35 per cent.

Within hours of CBA releasing its revised forecasts on Tuesday, new data from the Bureau of Statistics showed retail spending had fallen by 0.4 per cent in March, which was a much larger fall than expected.

ABS officials said the decline in retail spending in March was the weakest on record, outside of the pandemic period and introduction of the GST, when comparing turnover to the same time in the previous year.

Retail turnover grew by 1 per cent in January, and by 0.2 per cent in February with help from Taylor Swift's Australian tour.

But that Taylor Swift-inspired boost to retail spending in February was wiped away in March, driven by large declines in New South Wales (-1.1 per cent) and Victoria (-0.8 per cent).

Callam Pickering, APAC economist at global job site Indeed, said there had been a clear shift in sentiment after last week's surprise inflation figures, with some economists arguing there was now a clear case for more interest rate hikes.

However, he said, those calls for rate hikes seemed "somewhat premature" and higher interest rates risked pushing the economy into recession.

"Australian households are struggling and retail conditions are dire," Mr Pickering said.

"Given rising prices and strong population growth, the average Australian household is buying considerably fewer retail goods than they were a year ago.

"Further tightening in the current environment would leave the nation at clear risk of severe downturn or recession," he said.

Anneke Thompson, CreditorWatch chief economist, said the very weak retail sales figures in March would be a relief to the RBA and reduced the threat of "sticky inflation" in the goods category.

But she said spending on services was still driving inflation — and services inflation was less impacted by monetary policy.

"The RBA can take comfort that their tightening measures are helping drive down inflation," she said on Tuesday.

"However, this will be of little comfort to businesses in the retail trade, food and beverage and construction sectors, where default and external administrations are on a rising trend," she warned.

Sean Langcake, head of macroeconomic forecasting for Oxford Economics Australia, said last week's surprise inflation data had sparked concerns that the RBA would have to raise rates again to rein in inflation, but consumer demand was clearly "very restrained" at the moment.

"The underlying trend in retail spending remains very weak, with spending up just 0.8 per cent on a year earlier. Considering the brisk pace of population growth, this is a very soft trend," he said.

"Strong price inflation for essentials like health and education and higher rent and mortgage costs are still putting the squeeze on household budgets and discretionary spending," Mr Langcake said.

But late on Tuesday, Abhijit Surya from Capital Economics pushed back against the idea that weak retail sales would encourage the RBA to sit on its hands for a while.

He said his view was not the consensus, but he predicted the RBA would "take out an insurance policy" with one final rate increase at next week's RBA board meeting.

"Given the RBA's ostensible resolve to return inflation to target within a reasonable time frame, it can ill afford to look past the upside surprises in the latest CPI and labour market data," Mr Surya said.

After last week's higher-than-expected inflation figure, Judo Bank chief economic adviser Warren Hogan warned the RBA would have to raise rates three times this year , to 5.1 per cent, to ensure inflation didn't get out of control.

But on Tuesday, Mr Aird from Commonwealth Bank said he thought the RBA would keep rates on hold for the next six months, given the economy was "still contracting" on a per person basis.

"Our expectation for below‑trend economic growth to continue over 2024 means that the labour market will further loosen and wages pressures will moderate," he wrote on Tuesday.

"This will help to drag inflation back to the RBA's target band.

"Notwithstanding, the disinflation process is likely to take a little longer than we previously anticipated due to very strong population growth continuing to put upward pressure on some non‑discretionary components of the CPI basket," he said.

Interest rate cuts can't come soon enough for banks struggling to maintain profits

CBA's revised interest rate forecasts will feed into the debate about the profitability of Australia's banking sector.

Many analysts see the rate cutting cycle as an opportunity for the major banks to claw back some of the net interest margin they have been losing by not passing on any rate cuts in full, when rate cuts finally eventuate, across all their mortgage products.

It's part of a larger conversation about whether or not shareholders are overvaluing bank stocks at the moment.

The "big four" banks have enjoyed a strong run on the share market in the past six months – CBA and Westpac's share prices are up 26 per cent from where they were back in November, NAB is up 22 per cent and ANZ is up 14 per cent.

Sentiment has cooled a bit of late, with the CBA giving up 5 per cent of its gains and the others a little less.

But the total shareholder returns of the banks so far this year is 6 per cent, around double the ASX200 average, and they're trading at price-to-earnings multiples 16 per cent higher than the industrials.

Importantly, the three big banks reporting over the next two weeks are all expected to show a slide in profits from a year ago.

NAB is first to report on Thursday, and it is forecast to deliver a half-year cash profit of $3.6 billion, down around 13 per cent from the same period last year.

The story is likely to be the same at Westpac on Monday next week – a 13 per cent decline in profit to $3.6 billion, while the next day ANZ is tipped to produce a $3.6 billion profit, down 10 per cent.

Morgan Stanley's bank watchers think shareholders are too optimistic about the big fours' prospects in this environment.

"In our view, reporting season won't deliver sufficient (earnings) upgrades to justify the optimism reflected in current trading multiples," Morgan Stanley's veteran bank analyst Richard Wiles recently wrote.

Mr Wiles believes investors have got it wrong in their assessment of the timing and size of any rate cuts coming from the Reserve Bank and the implications of those rate cuts for the big banks and their earnings.

He believes the banks' loan growth will remain modest, margins won't rebound meaningfully, and costs will remain high for some time.

"In our view, trading multiples now reflect all the potential benefits of a soft landing and a less competitive environment," Mr Wiles said.

Andrew Triggs from JP Morgan is a bit more positive, although he agrees Australian bank stocks are currently expensive.

"The majors head into 1H24 reporting with decent prospects of holding consensus EPS (earnings per share) at current levels or seeing small BDD-driven (bad and doubtful debt) upgrades," Mr Triggs said.

Mr Triggs said while the quality of the banks' loan books is likely to show a gradual deterioration, the loan-loss charges should be contained and unlikely to need any costly top-up provisions.

"We expect dividends to be flat in 1H24 and 2H24 for NAB and Westpac despite the weaker earnings outlook which will likely be offset by higher payout ratios," he said.

"For ANZ, we expect the dividend will step down meaningfully in 1H24E — on non-recurrence of the 'top-up' paid in 2H23 for reduced franking credits attached to each dividend — and then remain flat."

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'can't write off the possibility' of a rate hike, economist warns, as inflation comes in higher than expected.

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• 1st Gen - 1997 - 2002

Engine cranks but wont start

• Thread starter Scottimyers
• Start date Aug 6, 2023

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• Aug 6, 2023

Scottimyers

I have a 2002 gen 1 expedition 4.6 Triton V8 XLT. It was running lumpy and the idle revs were going up and down and finally the engine stopped. I disconnected the battery and took the air intake apart and i found that the air intake hose that connects to the engine had come away. So i reconnected it and put the air intake back together. Reconnected the battery and then i started the engine. It was still lumpy for first couple minutes and then it evened out and started to run smooth. I took it for a short test drive then parked it up and turned off the engine. The next day i went out to start it and it just cranks without firing. Ive reset the ECU and taken a look at everything that I think it can be but im stuck. I cant find the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?  

Yupster Dog

Super moderator.

Have you tested to see if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail?  

No I havent. How do I do that? Sorry if I sound naive but my mechanical knowledge is limited.  

• Aug 7, 2023

Scottimyers said: How do I do that? Click to expand...

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• Chinese researchers start 2024 Arctic expedition at Yellow River Station

This photo taken by a mobile phone on April 30, 2024 shows members of Chinese Arctic expedition team posing for photos in front of China's Yellow River Station at Ny-Alesund in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean. Three Chinese researchers arrived at China's Yellow River Station in the Arctic on Monday to conduct a variety of scientific surveys across the region over the year. (Chinese Arctic expedition team/Handout via Xinhua)

Three Chinese researchers arrived at China's Yellow River Station in the Arctic on Monday to conduct a variety of scientific surveys across the region over the year.

Hu Zhengyi, head of the Yellow River Station, told Xinhua that the station expects to host over 50 researchers this year, who will engage in seasonal expeditions spanning four quarters.

Post-pandemic expeditions at the Yellow River Station have resumed gradually since last July, during which team members have carried out a range of operational surveys and scientific research projects in the fields of glaciology, terrestrial and marine ecology and space physics.

Chinese and Norwegian scientists have also jointly undertaken studies on environmental pollutants in the Arctic.

Established in July 2004, the Yellow River Station is China's first Arctic research station, located in Ny-Alesund, a small town in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean.

In recent years, China has successfully carried out multiple Arctic scientific expeditions using platforms such as the polar icebreakers "Xuelong" and "Xuelong 2," the Arctic Yellow River Station and the China-Iceland Arctic Science Observatory. 

This photo taken by a mobile phone on April 30, 2024 shows China's Yellow River Station at Ny-Alesund in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean. Three Chinese researchers arrived at China's Yellow River Station in the Arctic on Monday to conduct a variety of scientific surveys across the region over the year. (Chinese Arctic expedition team/Handout via Xinhua)

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• Three Chinese researchers arrived at China's Yellow River Station in the Arctic on Monday to conduct a variety of scientific surveys across the region over the year.