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5 Reasons Your Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter Outlets Keeps Tripping

Ground-fault circuit interrupters are designed for your safety. Circuit interrupters, or "trips" as they are commonly referred to, are intended to reduce the risk of fire or electrocution. If they trip, it's an indication there is a problem and you'll need an electrician you can trust.

What Causes Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter To Trip?

The top five reasons your GFCI outlet keeps tripping are ground-fault occurrences, moisture in the receptacle box, an overloaded circuit, an electrical fault, and a faulty GFCI outlet. We'll cover each of these issues, including causes and solutions.

1. Ground-Fault Occurrence

Ground faults occur when the hot wire or live wire comes into contact with the ground wire or the grounded area of an appliance. Usually, GFCIs function by detecting when the current is flowing along an unintended path (e.g., through water or a person).

The instant the GFCI detects there is even the slightest of current leakage as low as 0.005 amps, it trips right away.

How do you determine if the current is leaking? Unplug everything on that circuit and make sure all the switches are off. Check for any wear that may have occurred to the equipment. Any slight damage means the electrical part is no longer protected from contact.

2. Moisture in the Receptacle Box

The accumulation of moisture is another major cause of GFCI tripping. Outdoor GFCI outlets are the most vulnerable, and rain is the most common culprit. However, due to the tropical climate of Florida, high humidity can also cause moisture buildup and make it harder for any water trapped in a receptacle box to evaporate.

Start your search by inspecting the receptacle box. Be sure to turn off the breaker before opening the box containing the receptacle. The box must be dry before you attempt to reset the GFCI. It is possible to speed up this drying process using a simple tool such as a blow dryer, but that part is best left to a professional.

If the installation is outdoors or located in high humidity areas, such as the bathroom or kitchen, make sure the box is weatherproof and locked even when the receptor is in use. The presence of moisture can expose you to the risk of accidental electric shock.

3. Overloaded Circuit

Circuit overload occurs when more amperage flows through an electric wire or circuit than it can handle. This may happen if you connect malfunctioning or defective appliances. Loose, corroded wires or connections may also be to blame. Once the GFCI outlet senses an overload, it trips or "breaks" the circuit.

If you want to determine if overloading is really the problem, follow these steps in order.

• Unplug all the appliances connected to the circuit in question
• Reset the circuit on your fuse box
• Wait several minutes
• Plug an appliance back in and turn it on
• Check to see that your circuit has not tripped
• Plug in the next appliance, turn it on, check the breaker, and so on

You may find you'll need to replace the items causing the problem.

If the problem keeps reoccurring, you may need a new dedicated circuit and outlet that can handle the amperage required by the appliances.

4. Electrical Fault

If your GFCI outlet trips consistently, it could be an electric fault resulting from faulty structural wiring. An electrical outlet connected to the same circuit could also be the source of the problem, especially if it was not part of the original wiring of your home. In the case of an electrical fault, you will need a professional electrician to fix the problem.

5. Faulty GFCI Outlet

If you've tried all else and the GFCI outlet reset doesn't solve the problem, that means the outlet itself is defective. GFCI outlets have highly responsive internal circuitry to detect whenever there's a flaw in the electric system. With time, the sensitive circuitry wears out, rendering the outlet dysfunctional. In this case, the outlet will need repairing or even replacing and should be done by a qualified electrician.

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David Gray Electrical Services offers a range of commercial and electric services. We have highly trained, licensed, and equipped technicians. If you're experiencing GFCI outlet tripping issues in the Jacksonville area, contact us to schedule an appointment .

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Troubleshooting Ground Fault Circuit Breaker Testing

Troubleshooting a ground fault circuit interrupt, or GFI, breaker is pretty straightforward. Troubleshooting the circuit itself can be quite time-consuming. The GFI breaker is designed with a test button incorporated into the breaker itself. Pushing the test button should trip the breaker. On GFI-style breakers the neutral wire going into the house's outlets is connected to the breaker's neutral connector, the white neutral that comes out of the breaker is connected to the neutral bus in the panel, isolating the neutral bus from the neutral wire going into the house. The test button actually shorts the neutral wire feeding the circuit to the neutral bus in the electrical panel creating a ground fault that should trip the breaker. It is considered a ground fault because the neutral bus in the main electrical panel is actually connected to the ground bus through the panel's metal casing.

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What to do if the test button isn't tripping the breaker

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Push the test button on the GFI breaker. The breaker should trip. If the breaker does not trip, then it may be that the breaker has already tripped and just looks like it's on. The position of the switch may only move slightly from the on position towards the off position when tripped.

Push the switch on the GFI breaker all of the way toward the off position. It may take some force to get the breaker to reset. Turn the breaker back to the on position. When the breaker has been reset properly you should feel some resistance when pushing the switch back on.

Push the test button again and the breaker should trip. If the breaker still doesn't trip then you should test for power at the screw connections inside of the electrical panel. Remove the screw that holds the dead front covering the breaker's connections. Remove the dead front cover.

Test for power with your voltmeter set on AC volts on the highest scale. For a single pole GFI breaker, touch the black lead from the tester to the silver screw on the GFI breaker and touch the red lead from the tester to the brass screw on the GFI breaker. You should see 110 volts on the tester. If voltage is seen but the test button won't trip the breaker, then the breaker is bad and should be replaced.

Test for power on a two pole breaker by touching the red voltmeter lead to one of screws with a black or red wire connected to it. Touch the black lead to the other screw with a black or red wire connected to it. You should read 220 volts or close to it on your voltmeter. If you read voltage and the test button won't trip, the breaker is bad and needs to be replaced.

What to do if the breaker won't reset and keeps tripping when turned on

Unplug everything that is plugged into any of the outlets on the circuit in question. Try resetting the breaker again by pushing the switch all the way to the off position and then turning it back to the on position. If it won't reset and trips when the breaker's switch hits the on position, it could be a bad breaker or a problem in the circuit itself.

Use your straight-tipped screwdriver to loosen the brass connection screw or screws on the GFI breaker. Pull the black hot wire, or wires, out of the breaker's connectors. Loosen the silver screw the white wire is connected to and remove it from the GFI breaker.

Push the switch all the way to the off position. Turn the switch back to the on position. If the breaker still won't reset, then the problem is the breaker itself and it should be replaced with a new one of the same size, brand and model. If the breaker resets normally and the test button trips the breaker when pushed, the problem is in the circuit itself and an electrician should be called to find your ground fault.

Reconnect the black wire, or wires, to the brass screws on the GFI breaker. Reconnect the white wire to the silver screw on the GFI breaker.

Replace the dead front cover into the breaker panel. Install the screw or screws that hold the dead front in place.

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Why a GFCI Keeps Tripping (Solved)

Hubert Miles | Licensed Home Inspector, CMI, CPI

Updated on February 17, 2024

There are several different reasons why a GFCI keeps tripping. The most common reason is water or moisture that has gotten into the receptacle box or outlet. However, a tripping GFCI device could also get caused by an overloaded circuit, a malfunctioning outlet, electrical issues, or improper installation. 

According to the National Electric Code (NEC), you must install Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets and breakers in specific locations throughout your home. GFCI protection offers an extra layer of protection to your home’s electrical system. Still, they can be highly inconvenient if they’re constantly tripping and killing power to your outlets. 

When a GFCI keeps tripping, it’s inconvenient, but it often happens for a reason. You must get to the root of the cause behind your tripping outlet or breaker, especially if the electrical problems persist. It’s also essential to understand the purpose of GFCI devices and why electricians install them in the first place. 

Get FREE estimates from licensed electricians in your area today. Whether you need to replace an outlet, hang a ceiling fan, a new electrical panel, or repair wiring, We Can Help!

What is the Purpose of GFCI? 

Ground fault circuit interrupters protect you from a fatal electrical shock around your home. GFCI devices can detect small electrical leaks between hot wires and neutral wires.

A ground fault occurs when the incoming electrical current flow exits on the hot side of the outlet but doesn’t return the same electric current flow to the neutral side. If the current flows aren’t the same, the device will trip and terminate electricity like a breaker. 

An electrical leakage current is when the electric current deviates from its intended path. The electric leak will attempt to take the shortest unintended path to the ground, creating an electric shock that can be fatal.

While there’s usually a good reason for a GFCI outlet to trip, it can also happen accidentally. Accidental trips are highly inconvenient and are often the result of improper wiring or installation or a faulty outlet. However, whenever a GFCI outlet is not working , you must get to the bottom of the problem, or it will keep happening. 

What Causes GFCI to Trip? 

Troubleshooting your GFCI devices is often a process of elimination. There are five main reasons why these outlets and breakers trip, and it’s challenging to put your finger on the right one without an in-depth investigation. To help you get started, let’s go over the five main reasons why GFI outlets trip and what to do about it. 

There is Moisture Near the Outlet 

The most common reason GFCI outlets trip is because of moisture or water in the outlet or outlet box. Water is hazardous around electricity, so GFCI outlets often get installed in potentially moist areas. These include bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, outdoor areas, and unfinished basements or attics. 

A physical splash of water is typically the cause of moisture in an outlet box and is easily detectable. However, in humid areas, such as Florida, it’s also possible for enough humidity to accumulate inside the outlet and cause it to trip.  

The best way to prevent this is to install a new GFCI outlet and box with extra protection. Modern GFCI outlet boxes are waterproof and can withstand rain, humidity, and flooding. You should replace your old GFCI outlet with one to prevent further tripping. 

Exterior outlets need GFCI protection and a bubble-type weatherproof cover to keep moisture at bay.

An Overloaded Circuit 

Another common reason your GFCI will trip is an overloaded electrical circuit. An overloaded circuit happens when you are trying to operate too many appliances or electrical devices on the same circuit. Depending on the size of your electrical wiring, your GFCI circuit can only handle so much power. 

An overloaded circuit can short circuit due to faulty or exposed electrical wiring. If two exposed wires are touching one another, it will cause the GFCI breaker or receptacle that’s powering them to trip. Unplug all the devices receiving power from the GFCI circuit breaker or outlet to determine if an overloaded circuit is a problem. 

Next, plug everything back in, one device at a time, and see if the problem reoccurs. If it does, an overloaded circuit is likely the cause of your tripping GFCI.

Plugging appliances in one at a time is also an excellent way to determine which appliance is causing the problem. It may be necessary to wire it into a separate circuit or run a new circuit entirely. 

A Ground-Fault Occurrence 

Ground faults are when the hot wire touches the ground wire or something grounded. Ground faults get caused by several different things, including: 

• Worn out insulation 

The older your electrical wiring is, the more likely it is to have worn-out wiring insulation. When the insulation wears down enough, the hot wire can contact the ground wire and cause a ground fault. 

• Corroded wires 

The same is true for corroded or pinched wires.  

• Dust or debris 

If enough conductive dust collects in the outlet box, it can become an electrical conductor and leak electricity from the hot wire to the ground. 

• Loose connections

When either a hot or neutral wire connections are loose, arcing (short circuit) occurs, which will trip the GFCI. The loose wire connection can be anywhere on the branch circuit between the circuit breaker and the GFCI receptacle outlet.

If you can’t visibly see the ground wire touching the hot wire, there’s still possibly enough electricity leakage to cause a tripped GFCI. You should contact a professional electrician or use an electricity leakage tester to see if this is the problem. If the insulation is worn enough, electricity can leak from the hot wire onto the ground. 

• Defective appliances

A defective appliance can cause GFCI tripping to occur. A hairdryer can be a defective appliance. Defective electric motors inside common household appliances can cause current leakage, tripping a GFCI.

Nuisance Trips from a Refrigerator or Freezer

When a refrigerator trips a GFCI outlet, this usually means that it is drawing too much power from the circuit, usually when the compressor turns on. To prevent further trips, check if too many appliances are plugged into the same circuit and unplug any unnecessary items.

In older homes, it’s common for the kitchen lights and outlets to share one circuit. Since the refrigerator shares the circuit, the excessive draw can cause the refrigerator trips the GFCI breaker or outlet.

Be sure the outlet your refrigerator is plugged into has a 20-amp rating. If not, consider installing a dedicated 20-amp circuit for the refrigerator.

Many people like to put a spare refrigerator or freezer in their garage . These can often trip GFCIs that the NEC requires inside garages. If your new refrigerator keeps causing GFCI outlet trips, consider plugging it into a different outlet or installing a dedicated circuit.

Your Outlet Has Gone Bad

Like all electrical devices and components, outlets tend to go bad. On average, GFCI outlets last 15 to 20 years, but they can last longer or shorter depending on how your licensed electrician installed them. However, a faulty GFCI outlet will trip for no reason other than that it can’t handle electricity. 

It’s good to test your electrical outlets once a month by pushing the TEST button on the outlet’s face. If it trips, the power outlet is working as it should. Press the RESET button once you have finished your test. 

Improper Installation 

Finally, it’s possible that you or an electrician didn’t install the GFCI outlet correctly. GFCI outlets have to get wired a certain way, and attaching the wrong wire to the wrong spot will cause your device to trip endlessly or not work. 

How to fix a GFCI that Keeps Tripping? 

When a GFCI outlet keeps tripping, it signals that a problem exists and needs your attention. The only way to permanently fix a GFCI that keeps tripping is to get to the root of the problem.

Nuisance tripping occurs when a GFCI trips for no apparent reason. Getting to the source of the problem of nuisance trips is the only way to ensure that tripping doesn’t reoccur, and you should take this seriously.

Your qualified electrician will likely need to replace the GFCI outlet or breaker and ensure no loose connections exist.

GFCI Keeps Tripping FAQs 

When a GFCI keeps tripping, you probably have questions about how to troubleshoot why nuisance GFCI tripping occurs frequently.

Can moisture cause a GFCI to trip? 

Moisture is one of the leading causes of a tripping GFCI outlet. Water can result from excess humidity, rain, or flooding. 

Will a GFCI trip if it’s overloaded? 

A circuit overload is when you try to power too many devices on the same circuit, and it will cause your GFCI to trip as a safety measure. 

What causes a GFCI to trip repeatedly?

A GFCI may repeatedly trip if there is an electrical fault, such as a short circuit, or a ground fault, meaning the electricity exits the outlet via an unnatural path. It can also be caused by moisture exposure, worn-out wiring, overloaded circuits, or a bad GFCI sensor.

Final Thoughts 

While tripping GFCI outlets is inconvenient, it’s a safety measure. In most cases, a tripping GFCI outlet is good and prevents you from getting electrocuted. These devices rarely trip for no reason, but they can happen. Whether you perform tests yourself or hire an electrician, you must get to why your GFCI is tripping in the first place. 

Hubert Miles is a licensed home inspector (RBI# 2556) with more than two decades of experience in inspection and construction. Since 2008, he has been serving South Carolina through his company, Patriot Home Inspections LLC. As a Certified Master Inspector, Hubert is dedicated to providing his expertise in home inspections, repairs, maintenance, and DIY projects.

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Why Is My Circuit Breaker Tripping? 4 Potential Problems and Solutions

By: Glenda Taylor , Bob Vila , Evelyn Auer

Updated on Dec 21, 2023 8:55 PM EST

6 minute read

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Q: Every few hours—sometimes minutes!—my living room and one side of my kitchen lose electrical power. I’ll check the breaker panel and, sure enough, a circuit breaker has tripped…again. Should I call an electrician, or is there a simple DIY fix I can try first?

A: While it’s frustrating when a circuit breaker keeps tripping, they are important safety mechanisms. Designed to shut off the electrical current when something goes wrong, circuit breakers are one of the best ways of protecting a home from an electrical fire. “When a circuit breaker trips, typically it is because we use too much electricity, which causes it to overload and turn off,” says Christopher Haas, expert electrician and owner of Haas & Sons Electric in Millersville, Maryland. For those who need an electrical panels 101 refresher course or aren’t sure how to reset circuit breakers, each breaker has an on/off switch and controls a separate electrical circuit in the home. When a breaker trips, its switch automatically flips “off,” and it must be manually turned back on to restore electricity to the circuit. For those wondering, “Is it dangerous if a circuit breaker keeps tripping?” the answer is that it can be, depending on the source of the problem. An electrician can ultimately deal with the root issue, but a little sleuthing will reveal whether it’s something that’s easily remedied.

In many cases, the cause of a circuit breaking tripping is an overloaded circuit.

A circuit overloads when more electrical current is being drawn through the wires than they can handle, tripping the circuit breaker. If this happens, there may be a few additional signs:

• Buzzing noises coming from outlets
• Devices charging slowly
• Electrical outlets not working
• Flickering lights
• Scorch marks on outlets and light switches

If a circuit breaker keeps tripping in one room, homeowners can test for circuit overload by turning off all the switches in the affected area and unplugging all appliances and devices. After the breaker is flipped back on, the devices can be turned back on one at a time, with homeowners waiting a few minutes in between to see if the circuit remains on. If the breaker trips before all the appliances are turned on, the experiment can be repeated, this time turning them on in a different order. It may be necessary to do this several times to find out how many appliances can be operated at once before the circuit overloads.

“As a short-term solution, you can unplug unnecessary appliances to prevent tripping circuit breakers. You may still get some trips, but you can limit them by unplugging devices that you don’t need to use,” advises Dan Mock, vice president of operations at Mister Sparky , an electrical company with 90 locations in the U.S. The best long-term solution, however, is to pay an electrician for the cost to rewire the house and add additional circuits. The cost to replace an electrical panel is about $1,274 on average.

Other times, the issue may be caused by a short circuit.

A “short” circuit means that two wires that should not be coming into contact are inadvertently touching, triggering a sudden surge of electricity through the wires. A short can occur in an outlet, a switch, or within an appliance if wires are loose or have been chewed through by mice or pets. Some signs of a short circuit include:

• Popping sounds
• Discolored outlets or switches
• Burning smells

Testing to see if an appliance has a short is similar to testing for an overloaded circuit. When an appliance that has a short in its wiring is turned on, it will immediately trip the circuit. Homeowners can also try plugging it into an outlet in a different room. If the breaker for that room trips, there’s a short in the appliance (if it’s unclear what breaker goes to what room, the breaker can be identified with one of the best circuit breaker finders ). Electrical shorts can be a major fire hazard, so it’s a good idea to call a licensed electrician for this circuit breaker repair. It’s wise to stop using the outlet or appliance until a pro takes care of the problem.

Another potential cause of a circuit breaker tripping is a ground fault.

A ground fault occurs when the electricity running through a home’s wiring diverts from the wiring loop and travels to the ground, usually due to faulty wiring or water infiltration in an outlet or switch box. Water is a conductor, which is why walking through puddles is often listed as something not to do in a power outage in case of downed power lines. Once water makes contact with wires, electricity can jump from the wiring loop and follow the water trail. This creates a surge in electricity leading to a tripped circuit breaker. If a person comes in contact with the electricity that is on its way to the ground, this can result in electrocution. Homeowners may notice a few signs of a ground fault, including:

• Tripped GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets;
• A burning smell coming from an outlet; and
• Lights flickering.

Newer electrical breakers have features designed to protect against the danger of ground faults. According to Haas, “Ground fault breakers sense electricity going to earth as opposed to going through the wires of the circuit. You’ll find [these] for bathrooms, kitchens, garages, exteriors, and basements.” GFCI outlets are another safety feature that shut off the electric current within a fraction of a second of sensing a ground fault.

If a ground fault is the problem, the cause of the errant water must be discovered and repaired, and any damaged wiring must also be replaced. It’s also a good idea to install GFCI outlets in rooms where water is commonly used. A GFCI outlet costs $210 on average.

Sometimes a bad or worn-out circuit breaker can be the culprit.

In some cases, the circuit breaker itself may be faulty. Breakers that are old, damaged, or were installed incorrectly may trip frequently for no apparent reason. Alternatively, faulty breakers may not trip when they are supposed to, leaving the home at risk of electrical fire. Some signs of a bad circuit breaker include:

• The circuit breaker getting hot and tripping frequently;
• The circuit breaker won’t reset;
• It has been over 10 years since the breaker was last serviced; and
• The breaker has scorch marks.

An important electrical safety tip to keep in mind is that resetting a breaker over and over again can cause what is called an arc flash, which is a small electrical explosion that can be deadly. If resetting the breaker once does not remedy the issue, it’s a good idea for the homeowner to hire an electrician near them who knows how to replace a circuit breaker safely. Mock warns, “Don’t take any chances with circuit breakers. Instead, call a licensed electrician who knows the safe ways to replace breaker boxes, upgrade circuits, and diagnose potential electrical problems in your home.” Wiring a breaker box is a job to leave to an experienced electrician.

A professional electrician can help determine the specific cause of a frequently tripping circuit breaker.

Most circuit breaker problems—aside from those explained in the sections above—will need to be inspected and addressed by a licensed electrician. According to the Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI) , each year “thousands of people in the United States are critically injured and electrocuted as a result of electrical fires, accidents, [or] electrocution in their own homes.” While homeowners may be tempted to save on electrician costs by attempting circuit breaker replacement or repair themselves, electrical work is not suitable for casual DIYers. “Yes, you have to pay, but you can save many hours of head-scratching by hiring an electrician. Electricians will also have all the right tools for diagnosing and repairing the circuit,” Haas adds. “Lastly, they will come with a warranty/guarantee should something arise, and they will typically return at no additional cost.”

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Troubleshooting Guide: What to Do When Your GFCI Keeps Tripping

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) are crucial electrical safety devices that protect us from electrical shocks and potential hazards. However, it can be frustrating when a GFCI repeatedly trips, disrupting power to multiple outlets. Let’s explore the common causes behind GFCI tripping and provide a step-by-step troubleshooting guide to help you resolve the issue.

Role of a GFCI

To effectively troubleshoot a GFCI tripping issue, it’s essential to understand how it works. A GFCI monitors the electrical current flowing through a circuit. If it detects even a slight imbalance, such as current leakage due to a ground fault, it automatically shuts off the power to prevent electric shock.

Identify Potential Causes

There are several potential causes for GFCI tripping that you should be aware of. Here are a few of the most common causes you may encounter:

Ground Faults

The most common cause of GFCI tripping is a ground fault. This occurs when a hot wire encounters a ground wire or conductive material, creating a short circuit and causing the GFCI to trip.

Overloaded Circuits

GFCIs are designed to handle a specific amount of current. Overloading the circuit by plugging in multiple high-power devices simultaneously can cause the GFCI to trip.

Faulty Appliances or Wiring

If a specific appliance or wiring in the circuit has a fault, it can trigger the GFCI to trip. Identifying the faulty device is crucial to resolving the issue.

Resetting the GFCI

When the GFCI trips, the first step is to reset it. Locate the GFCI outlet or breaker and press the reset button. If it clicks and stays in place, the issue may have been a temporary fault. However, if it immediately trips again, proceed with the following steps:

1) Isolate the Problem

Unplug all devices from the GFCI-protected outlets.

2) Reset the GFCI

Gradually plug in one device at a time and reset the GFCI after each plug-in. If the GFCI trips after plugging in a specific device, that device may be faulty and needs further inspection or repair.

3) Check for Ground Faults

Inspect outlets, switches, and connections for damage, security, exposed wires in the circuit, and moisture in areas like bathrooms or outdoor outlets to prevent ground faults.

4) Address Overloaded Circuits

Identify outlets connected to the GFCI circuit and consider redistributing the load by connecting certain devices to non-GFCI outlets.

5) Seek Professional Help

If the issue persists or you are uncomfortable dealing with electrical troubleshooting, it’s best to contact a qualified electrician. They have the expertise to identify and resolve complex electrical problems safely.

Ready to Get Rid of GFCI Tripping?

GFCI tripping can be a nuisance, but understanding the causes and following a systematic troubleshooting approach can help you resolve the issue. By isolating the problem, checking for ground faults, addressing overloaded circuits , and seeking professional assistance when needed, you can ensure the safety and functionality of your electrical system.

Electrical work can be dangerous, so it’s crucial to prioritize your safety and consult a professional if you’re unsure about any aspect of the troubleshooting process. If you’re concerned about your GFCI tripping, contact Grounded Solutions to inspect it. We’re here to help you with any and all maintenance, installation, or general electrical needs!

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5 Reasons Your Circuit Breaker Keeps Tripping and What You Can Do About It

Keep losing power, and aren't sure why here are five of the most common reasons why a circuit breaker keeps tripping, and what you can do to fix the problem..

1. Ground Fault

2. short circuit, 3. circuit overload, 4. arc fault, 5. damaged breakers, circuit breaker keeps tripping.

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GFCI outlet Keeps Tripping: Causes and How to Fix It.

Ground fault circuit interrupters protect against electric shock. If your own gfci outlet keeps tripping, read on to find out why.

A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) trips when it detects a ground fault , or current leakage even as little as 5mA between the hot and ground wire .

When the gfci detects the leakage current, it trips to protect you and the appliances plugged into the outlet.

The National Electrical Code recommends GFCI installation in every home, mostly in the bathroom and kitchen, to prevent electrocution and damage to appliances.

Related post : How to Install a GFCI Outlet in your Bathroom and Kitchen

Table of Contents

What causes a GFCI outlet to keep tripping?

A gfci device trips for so many reasons such as:

Ground faults

Ground faults occur when currents take an unintended path to the ground. Or when a hot wire touches the earth . When the ground fault occurs, currents leak to the ground.

The function of the GFCI receptacle is to detect when currents flow through an unintended path, which may be water or human.

Once the receptacle detects the current leakage, even as little as 0.005 amps, it shuts down.

This ground fault protection from the GFCI device helps protect us from electrical shock.

Related post: Circuit breaker keeps tripping without load . Causes and how to resolve them.

Causes of ground fault

• Faulty wiring
• Water touching the outlets or any naked cable.
• Worn out insulation.

Consult a qualified electrician to find the cause of the breaker trip.

Overload Circuit 

Circuit overload occurs when you plug more appliances into a circuit than it can carry. Normally, a GFCL outlet handles between 15 and 20 amps. When you plug-in devices that draw more current than required, it trips the gfci.

Many things can cause circuit overload, including defective appliances, rusted wires, permanently installed electric motors, and others.

To see if the load is causing the tripping issues, do:

• Unplug the appliances plugged into the electrical outlet.
• Reset the gfci by pressing the reset button and wait for a few minutes to see if it will go off again. If it does, other faults may be responsible, but if it doesn’t trip, suspect the load.
• Plug back the appliances and watch if it goes off again. If it is the load that is causing the tripping, reduce it.

Wet receptacles

Since water is an excellent conductor of electricity, it can cause your outlet to trip. A wet receptacle can allow currents to flow through it to the ground, leading to loss of current.

This loss can vary the amount of currents going in and out of the circuit. Thus causing your GFCI to trip.

Electrical fault

If your GFCI breaker continues to go off, there may be an electrical issue arising from wrong connection.

Faulty connections can cause a current to leak to the ground, leading to a ground fault.

Faulty GFCI outlet

If, after trying the above methods, the GFCI still trips, replace the receptacle box with a new gfci.

You can buy a new outlet here@ Amazon

Call a licensed electrician to replace the outlet to avoid faulty connections.

You can also contact us at mariaelectrical.com to troubleshoot and replace the outlets for you.

How to troubleshoot and fix a tripping ground fault circuit interrupter (gfci)

Here are some steps you can take to fix a tripping GFCI:

Check the appliances

Unplug all the appliances connected to the GFCI and check if any part or wire is bad. A damaged wire or device can short circuit , causing the outlet to trip. If there is fault, change or replace the wire.

Check for overload

A GFCI can only handle a certain amount of electrical load . If you have too many appliances or devices connected to the outlet, it may trip. Try unplugging some devices and see if that fixes the problem.

Look for loose connection or bad wiring

Remove the plate cover from your outlet and inspect the wire connection. Make sure that the wiring is OK. And there is no loose connection or burnt wire.

If you are not familiar with wiring, call an electrician to inspect the wiring.

Check for moisture

GFCIs outlets trip when they detect moisture or water, make sure the environment is dry. If it is wet, clean it with dryer so that it will not conduct electricity.

Test and reset the gfci outlet

Press the “Test” button on the outlet to trip it. Then press the “Reset” button to restore power. If it trips again, the GFCI may need to be replaced.

Call a qualified electrician for assistance.

Mariaelectricals offers a range of electrical services and inspections. We have professionally trained and licensed electricians for your electrical work.

If your gfci outlet is constantly tripping, contact us to schedule an appointment .

Related articles

• What are the Differences Between Circuit Breakers and GFCIs?
• GFCI Won’t reset, 7 Causes and How to Fix it.
• Ungrounded Outlets Explained! Dangers and How to Fix the Issue.

About mariaelectricals

Hi, I am Emmanuel Nwankwo, a commercial electrician and the founder of mariaelectricals.com . I established this blog to share my decades of work experience in electrical installations and repairs.

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How Does a Ground Fault Circuit Breaker Work? – Explanation

Written by  Edwin Jones  / Fact checked by  Andrew Wright

If you were thinking, “How does a ground fault circuit breaker work?” maybe learning about them would help you know whether to upgrade your current circuit.

GFCI breakers protect the user from the risk of electrocution. However, switching to a GFCI circuit breaker is quite expensive. Alternatively, you can consider using a GFCI outlet to replace the traditional receptacle for additional safety.

Continue reading this article to learn about the different types of GFCI devices and how they work.

Table of Contents

• How Does a GFCI Work?

1. GFCI Circuit Breaker Definition

2. gfci outlet, 3. portable gfci, how does a gfci work .

The GFCI circuit breaker works as a standard circuit breaker in your panel. It compares the power sent to and from appliances to detect any differences and reacts quickly to circuit overloads. However, this type of circuit breaker also has advanced features designed to detect a ground fault.

A ground fault occurs when a hot wire touches the ground wire and interacts with water or any sort of debris. In the event of a ground fault, the GFCI will immediately trip. This is the primary purpose of GFCI circuit breakers and GFCI outlets; they are there for a user’s protection.

In addition, installing a GFCI circuit and receptacles are now required by the NEC. It is important to keep in mind that local electrical codes also have requirements to follow to pass an electrical inspection, and this may include ground fault protection.

Always look for an electrical diagram when installing a GFCI circuit or hire a professional.

What are GFCI Devices?

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, often referred to as GFCI, is a device used to detect a ground fault that can cause electrocution or electrical shock. The GFCI is mainly installed in the bathroom, kitchen, or even garage. Usually, it is installed where the circuit can come in contact with water.

There are three types of GFCI devices: a circuit breaker, an outlet, and a portable GFCI. Though they’re used in different applications or installations, their function is all the same. Here is a short overview to learn more about these three types of GFCI.

A Ground Fault Breaker or GFCI circuit breaker is a special circuit breaker that protects the entire circuit. It means that all the receptacles currently linked to the circuit with the GFCI breaker have its protection.

However, its effectiveness comes at a cost—it is more expensive than a typical circuit breaker currently used in most residential places.

Aside from GFCI circuit breakers, there are also combined GFCI and AFCI circuit breakers. This breaker has the dual protection of GFCI operation and AFCI operation. This means it has the ability to detect both ground faults and arc faults somewhere in the electrical system.

Tips: You can use a GFCI outlet as an alternative for GFCI breakers if you want the same protection at a lower cost.

A GFCI outlet is like an outlet that has a built-in circuit breaker inside. It is commonly used to replace a typical receptacle for additional protection. Unlike the GFCI circuit breaker that protects the entire circuit, the GFCI outlet protection is limited to a single area.

However, compared to resetting a GFCI circuit breaker, resetting a GFCI is more straightforward. With the GFCI outlet, it is a simple matter of pushing the reset button. For the GFCI circuit breaker, however, you need to go to the breaker box to reset it.

Tip: You can use multiple-location wiring to extend your GFCI features to other outlets. This video by Terry Peterman will explain how this works.

The Portable GFCI has the same feature as the GFCI outlet and circuit breaker. Many contractors use it as GFCI protection on their working sites.

It is quite affordable and can be plugged into an outlet or handheld equipment like saws. For outdoor use, there are portable GFCI products that are waterproof.

Now that you know how does a ground fault circuit breaker work, it will change how you look at your electrical system. You may want to change or upgrade your circuit breaker for additional safety.

Though it does provide excellent protection, upgrading your breaker or changing the receptacle to GFCI only makes sense when the circuit is near or associated with water.

Is there anything in the article that you’d like to know more about? Let me know what you think in the comments section below.

I am Edwin Jones, in charge of designing content for Galvinpower. I aspire to use my experiences in marketing to create reliable and necessary information to help our readers. It has been fun to work with Andrew and apply his incredible knowledge to our content.

Guide to Ground Fault Sensing

Ground faults arise when current flows from an energized conductor to ground inadvertently. The return path of the fault current is through living beings or equipment touching the grounding system. Ground fault detection is critical to protecting people and animals from shock or death.

It doesn’t take much ground-fault current to cause harm. Extensive research in the 1960s determined the amount of current and voltage needed to cause ventricular fibrillation (where a heart stops beating) in humans. These studies found that as little as 70 mA through the heart was enough to cause fibrillation. The refinement of transistor technology provided a means of sensing currents as low as 0.003 A (3 mA) to energize a relay that would decouple the power supply.

OSHA documents spell out the general relationship between the amount of current received and the reaction when current flows from the hand to the foot for just one second.

• At 1 mA, you feel a slight tingle.
• At 5 mA, you feel a slight shock, not painful but disturbing. The average individual can let go, but involuntary reactions can lead to injuries.
• At 6–25 mA, there is painful shock, and muscular control is lost.
• The 9–30 mA level is called the freezing current or “let-go” range. At this level, many humans cannot get their muscles to work, and they can’t open their hand to let go of a live conductor.
• At 50–150 mA, there will be extreme pain, respiratory arrest, and severe muscular contractions. The individual cannot let go, and death is possible.
• At 1,000–4,300 mA, there is ventricular fibrillation. Muscular contraction and nerve damage occur. Death is most likely.
• At 10,000+ mA, there will be cardiac arrest with severe burns and probable death.

Besides endangering lives, ground faults can also lead to costly fires and other equipment damage. Numerous safety regulations and electrical codes exist to prevent and protect against ground faults.

Ground fault regulations

The size of conductors, set points, and subsequent actions are all considerations for selecting a ground fault sensor. What do the local codes require for protection and disconnect? What is the main goal in setting up a ground fault device? Is it focused on personnel protection or electrical device/process protection?

In North America, ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) have been required by the National Electric Code (NEC) since the late 1960s. As the technology became more reliable, the NEC mandated GFCIs in many more applications to reduce the number of deaths from electrical shock.

GFCI receptacles and circuit breakers were a huge step forward from prior designs using core balance transformers connected to current sensitive relays. The compact form factor, one-piece design, and simple installation of receptacles and circuit breakers resulted in a significant reduction in fatalities leading to a greater interest in ground fault protection. The NEC sets requirements for where a GFCI will be installed. The system design engineer follows the NEC requirements based on Underwriters Laboratories standard UL 943, Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters . The UL specification designates what fault current level will cause the circuit to be de-energized, how quickly it must disconnect, and several other points, including a self-test function. The minimum amount of latency between when the fault occurs and when the circuit is de-energized is based on a mathematical formula so that more time can elapse when the fault is low than when the fault is more severe:

The Time in seconds (T) = (20 / F I) [ fault current in mA to the power of 1.43].

T = (20 / 6) 1.43 = 5.593 for a fault of 6 mA.

The circuit must be disconnected in 5.59 seconds to meet this requirement. If the fault is more significant at 30 mA, the circuit must be de-energized in 0.56 seconds, 560 ms. If the fault is 250 ms or higher, the monitored circuit must be disconnected in 25 ms.

The NEC refers to personnel protection as ground fault circuit interrupters tested to UL 943A requirements, while in Canada, the standard is CSA (Canadian Standards Association) C22.2 and in Mexico NMX-J-520 from UL.

Industrial ground fault sensors should be marked as recognized under UL 1053 (Standard for Ground-Fault Sensing and Relaying Equipment) , UL 508 (Standard for Industrial Control Equipment) , or one of the other categories of UL 943: Class B, C, or D.

• UL 1053 is specific for ground fault sensing and relaying equipment with no stated current levels or time to operate.
• UL 508 is an even broader category that covers a variety of automation components.

When using a ground fault sensor to control a shunt-trip breaker, both components (sensing device and circuit breaker) must be tested together to verify the circuit is interrupted quickly enough to be considered a GFCI that meets UL 943 requirements, and that the two parts, sensing and disconnecting method, meet the other specific UL requirements for this standard.

Protecting processes

While personnel safety is a major concern of ground fault protection, industrial settings dictate additional considerations. Manufacturing facilities normally employ a variety of safety protections for employees working with electrical machinery. Personal Safety Devices (PSD) used properly help minimize exposure to electrical dangers and allow fault current trip levels to be safely raised, minimizing nuisance trips and preventing undesired process interruptions. Ground fault detection can also be used to initiate controlled stops, alert other upstream processes, and even be used as part of a predictive maintenance program to repair or renovate equipment before a complete breakdown can occur.

The requirements of UL 943 for personnel protection (avoiding shock to humans) are well established and under constant refinement, while standards for equipment protection are less stringent. The primary aim of equipment protection is to keep a fault from damaging machinery. Circuits supplying heating loads (heat strips, heat trace, and snow melting equipment) are usually not disconnected until the fault current exceeds 30 mA or more. Electric vehicle charging stations are now required to have GFCI personnel protection according to 625.22, under a separate UL Standard, UL 2231-1 (Standard for Safety for Personnel Protection Systems for Electric Vehicle (EV) Supply Circuits: General Requirements).

The 2017 NEC says the following:

Ground-fault protection of equipment shall be provided for fixed outdoor electric deicing and snow-melting equipment.  [Section 426.28]

Section 427.22 also requires that:

Ground-fault protection of equipment shall be provided for electric heat tracing and heating panels. This requirement shall not apply in industrial establishments where there is alarm indication of ground faults, and the following conditions apply:

1) Conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installed systems, and

2) continued circuit operation is necessary for the safe operation of equipment or processes. [Section 427.22]

The 2020 NEC  states:

Ground-fault protection of Equipment: Ground-Fault protection of equipment shall be provided for fixed outdoor electric deicing and snow-melting equipment. [Section 426.28]

2017 NEC states:

The overcurrent protective devices that supply the marina, boatyards, and commercial and noncommercial docking facilities shall have ground-fault protection not exceeding 30 mA. [Section 555.3]

For the 2020 NEC , the ground-fault protection (GFP) requirements of marinas, boatyards, and docking facilities was extensively revised. These GFP requirements (previously located at 555.3) were divided into three parts to provide clarify for these important ground-fault requirements. Section 555.35(A)(1) addresses shore power receptacles with individual GFPE not to exceed 30 milliamperes (mA). Section 555.35(A)(2) addresses 15- and 20-ampere receptacles for other than shore power with Class A GFCI protection (4 to 6 mA) being provided in accordance with 210.8 through a reference at 555.33(B)(1). Section 555.35(A)(3) addresses feeder and branch-circuit conductors providing power to individual slips or piers and installed on docking facilities to be provided with GFPE set to open at currents not exceeding 100 mA with coordination with downstream GFPE permitted at the feeder overcurrent protective device.

The 2017 NEC calls for ground-fault protection for high-current supplies, too. Sections 215.10 and 230.95 deal with currents of 1,000 A or more and voltages of 480 or higher. Section 517.17 also stipulates where fault detection is required in hospitals and other health care facilities.

The importance of protecting an electrical system against faults-to-earth cannot be overstated. This type of fault sensing is not over-current detection, so fusing or circuit breakers will keep the conductors and insulation from being damaged.

Detection methods

The primary method of fault detection utilizes a single ring of magnetically permeable metal wound with many turns of small gauge wire (forming a current transformer or toroid) surrounding all the current-carrying conductors. If there is more current supplied to the load than is returned to the source, this sensing toroid produces a low voltage in the windings. This voltage is amplified and used to trigger an action such as energizing a solenoid to open a set of contacts (see figure 1).

It is also possible to place a current transformer over each conductor and to connect the secondaries to a sensing device installed to monitor the resulting current unbalance (see figure 2). Each current transformer must be rated to handle the maximum current in each conductor. The accuracy of this multiple current transformer method is inherently less precise than using a single toroid due to manufacturing and material tolerances.

A similar approach can be used to monitor the entire load of a machine or distribution panel supplied by a wye-connected (star) transformer and bonded to earth at the machine location (see figure 3). Passing only the bonding conductor through a ground fault sensor will perform the same function as using a large toroid over all the conductors.

In most industrial equipment protection applications, the ground-fault sensor output performs one of two operations: A contact closes a circuit to energize the operating solenoid of a shunt trip circuit breaker, or a contact opens a circuit powering a contactor or motor starter operating coil. How the sensor output interacts with the rest of the control system is completely at the discretion of the system designer.

Circuit breakers come in a variety of styles. Some can accept feature-enhancing accessories (such as for under-voltage trip, alarm contacts, and interchangeable trip plugs). The most common is the shunt-trip breaker that allows the circuit to be opened from a remote location (acting as if there was an over-current condition). This action is commonly accomplished by a magnetically operated solenoid that pushes or pulls a latching mechanism to open the breaker contacts. In some applications, the shunt-trip device turns off a load in an emergency.

For example, most auto fuel dispensing stations have an emergency switch that disconnects all fuel pumps if there is a problem. This switch closes the circuit to operate a shunt-trip breaker, removing power from the pumps. The circuit breaker must be reset manually once the fault condition has been addressed and mitigated.

When a shunt-trip is used with an auto-reset ground fault sensor, the sensor contact closes the circuit to the shunt solenoid when it detects a fault over the sensor trip point. As in other cases, the breaker must be reset manually after the cause of the fault is determined and mitigated. Because power to the monitored load is turned off, and the only way to restore power is to reset the circuit breaker. Using a shunt-trip accessory effectively transforms an automatically resetting sensor into a latching device.

Even if the cause of the fault is removed from the load and the sensor remains powered from an isolated source (recommended for all installations), the load cannot be energized until the breaker is reset. A latching output sensor, like the auto-reset models, is typically equipped with an integral test button. Two additional terminals allow attachment of an external contact — usually a button mounted to the enclosure door — enabling the sensor to be reset after a fault is detected without opening the panel.

Another common method used with a ground fault sensor is to have the contact open the circuit providing power to a contactor coil, de-energizing the load – typically multiple heating elements or a motor-driven pump or fan. Opening a contact in a control system sounds easy, but in most ground-fault sensing applications, that contact must be closed before the monitored load is energized to allow the contactor coil to do its job.

Manufacturers offer both normally energized and normally de-energized versions of auto-reset ground-fault sensors. The more common of the two is normally de-energized in which the output, whether solid-state or an electromechanical relay, does not change state unless there is a fault-to-ground exceeding the trip point.

The normally energized version is sometimes referred to as fail-safe. Here, the output changes state when the sensor first powers up. The output returns to normal or “shelf-state” condition when one of two things happens: the sensed fault current exceeds the trip point or the power to the sensor is removed.

In the case where a normally open, normally energized solid-state output model opens the circuit powering a contactor coil, the output contact would be open at shelf state and closed when the monitored circuit is not passing current to ground, and the sensor is energized. The sensor output will open, turning off the monitored load if the sensor power is interrupted or if the load passes current to ground exceeding the trip point. It is important to understand that the monitored circuit might not energize if the sensor did not see power first, as energizing the sensor closes the output contact. More commonly, the sensor selection would be normally closed, normally de-energized (solid-state) with the contact opening only when current exceeding the trip point passes to ground.

With electromechanical relay outputs, the operation is the same. In normally energized versions, the output relay is energized with sensor power applied, so the contacts change state when the sensor has power. The relay will then return to shelf state when there is a loss of power to the sensor, or the fault current exceeds the trip point.

When an auto-reset sensor output controls a contactor, it’s best to use a three-wire connection method (like a standard momentary motor-start/stop-button setup utilizing a mechanical interlock on the contactor), so the contactor must be re-engaged after the sensor trips. Alternatively, a latching-output version of the sensor is an option.

In some code jurisdictions, a contactor might not be considered a circuit disconnect. The local inspector, specifier, or AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) has the final say based on the locally adopted Code .

Many system designers tend to specify sensors that will monitor several loads simultaneously by installing the sensor before a final distribution point. The problem is that any minor leakage in each load accumulates, resulting in a higher leakage current level overall.

As an example, visualize a machine that produces silicon wafers for electronics. Several heating elements warm chemical wash processes, several motors perform product positioning, and there are transformers adjusting voltage levels for various process controls. Sensors can be set to trip at relatively low levels if the motors, transformer loads, and heating elements are monitored for faults individually. But if a single sensor protects all loads, the trip point likely must be set much higher, reducing the protection level of each piece of equipment.

Heating elements seldom leak low-level current the way motors and transformers do. In most cases when heaters fail, there is a direct short-to-ground, or the circuit is completely open. Heat trace cable runs do tend to leak small amounts of current to earth, or there may be capacitance losses in long runs.

With loads such as motors and transformers, small imperfections in the varnish insulation of the windings can let low levels of current pass to earth. While humans can seldom feel 3 or 4 mA currents, this low current leakage can rise over time until it becomes a concern both to personnel and the equipment itself.

The ability to precisely monitor ground-fault leakage lets the operator decide how to handle any ground-fault conditions. In applications where deterioration over time is expected, the monitoring of ground leakage levels can determine specific maintenance or replacement needs and prevent costly unexpected equipment failure and shutdowns. There are numerous applications where leakage-to-ground can exceed 30 mA yet not cause harm. And in some circumstances, disconnecting power prematurely may cause significant machine or process damage. Environmental conditions, such as excessively humid or wet conditions caused by washdown or failing enclosure seals, may elevate leakage.

In applications where actions are required at predetermined or specified leakage levels, the factory calibrated setpoint will simplify setup. Once the setpoint is established, the designer chooses how to specifically handle the fault. Local codes may determine the sequence of events once a fault occurs.

Environments characterized by widely ranging temperature and moisture conditions wreak havoc on electrical systems. Changes in heat and humidity eventually break down protective insulation to cause ground leakage. Wet environments pose additional concerns as potential shock hazards multiply.

Unlike moisture sensors that must be wired back to the motor control center, the ground fault sensor installs directly in the control panel, minimizing wiring. Industrial electrical heaters are prone to ground leakage from the breakdown or contamination of insulation. The on/off output of the ground-fault sensor can be used to trigger a circuit interruption device (such as a shunt-trip breaker) or a monitoring device (like a PLC) to determine the required action.

Special Situations

It can be useful to review how ground-fault equipment has served in particular applications that have unique needs. For example, recent updates to NEC Article 555 require that marina owners consider ground-fault protection at both the individual slips and at the power distribution center feeding the separate branches to each slip’s power pedestal. Typical power feeds now require sensors that can handle conductors carrying more than 300 A, necessitating the use of additional components.

To address this problem, manufactures such as NK Technologies have developed a sensor with an aperture measuring four inches in diameter, allowing conductors (carrying 800 A or more) to pass through the sensor easily (see figure 4).

These large-aperture AG-LC sensors can monitor the main circuit feeding the pedestals and energize a shunt trip breaker protecting the entire docking facility. Smaller aperture sensors can monitor individual power pedestals at each slip, with the sensor output energizing a shunt-trip breaker at the pedestal.

In the case of kitchens, NEC 2017 Section 210.8(B)(2) requires GFCI for personnel protection in commercial kitchen equipment with “single-phase receptacles rated 150 V to ground or less, 50 A or less, and three-phase receptacles rated 150 V to ground or less, 100 A or less.” Prior to this change, only 15- and 20- A single-phase circuits of 125 V or less needed this level of protection. Circuit breakers and receptacles meeting this requirement are readily available and quite common. Requirements above 20 A or needing three-phase protection are a more difficult issue.

Additionally, commercial kitchen steamers and grills sometimes retain humidity while stored prior to installation, so units must be “burned in” or energized for at least two hours before normal use. The additional moisture present during this process increases the ground-fault leakage to a point above the 5-mA trip level. To avoid nuisance tripping during the burn-in cycle, a ground-fault sensor must allow a temporary rise in the setpoint.

To handle such situations, some sensors offer adjustable capabilities as a standard feature. A factory placed range jumper is installed at the highest setpoint (30 mA), allowing the equipment to operate during the initial burn-in. With the burn-in complete, the sensors can be readjusted to the 5-mA setpoint (see figure 5).

The fabrication of silicon wafers into semiconductor chips involves hazardous chemicals and extreme heat. The SEMI standard S22-071b provides guidelines regarding the safety of semiconductor processing equipment, including Emergency Mains Off (EMO) circuitry design. This standard requires a means for the operator to easily disconnect mains power should any problem arise during processing.

Because there are electrical heating elements throughout the fabrication equipment, ground fault protection is paramount. The elements are monitored in each process segment, and fault detectors are set at fairly low trip points. If there is a fault-to-earth through the heating element, sensors selectively shut down only the affected part of the process. If several heating processes short simultaneously, a sensor with a bit of delay and higher trip point shuts off the main power feed. Here, sensors with adjustable setpoints and delays help manage the controlled shut down of the system in case of critical failures (see figure 6).

It is relatively easy and quite common to detect low-level current in ac circuits. In North America, codes require all electrical outlets mounted in wet conditions to be protected with ground-fault circuit interrupters. If AC current of 4 to 6 mA passes to ground, a circuit breaker or the contacts in the power receptacle open before there’s an electrocution. Most electrical heating elements must also be protected to keep equipment from damage in the event of a fault.

In contrast, trying to detect the same fault condition in a dc circuit with a floating ground is not as simple. With the proliferation of photovoltaic panels and other alternative power sources, the need for ground-fault detection in dc-powered systems is critical.

Solar panels or battery-operated systems use positive and negative conductors that are insulated. When connections get wet, this insulation becomes compromised, and current can pass to earth. Water is the most common cause of dc fault current, while deteriorating insulation and contaminants on battery housings are additional factors. Because DC current leakage to earth presents a dangerous situation, early fault detection is essential. Fault detection that doesn’t add impedance to the monitored circuit is the safest approach.

• NFPA 70®: National Electrical Code®, 2017 edition. Copyright © 2016, National Fire Protection Association. For a full copy of NFPA 70, please go to www.nfpa.org .
• NK Technologies,  www.nktechnologies.com

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• Similarities & Differences
• Gound Faults
• Short Circuits
• Ground Fault or Short Circuit?

Several electrical problems can cause the same apparent symptom: a circuit that suddenly goes dead and causes lights and appliances to stop working. Both short circuits and ground faults can cause this problem. The two are closely related but different.

A short circuit occurs when two nodes of an electric circuit, intended to be at different voltages, are connected. This happens when a "hot" conductor comes into contact with a neutral or ground conductor. A ground fault occurs when an energized conductor unintentionally comes in contact with the equipment frame or the ground.

The Spruce / J. R. Bee

Ground Fault vs. Short Circuit: Similarities & Differences

Short circuits and ground faults both involve hot wires but differ in how the wires touch. In a short circuit, the hot and neutral wires touch, while in a ground fault, the hot wire touches the ground. Both short circuits and ground faults will result in blown fuses and circuit or circuit breakers respectively. If a ground fault happens, your GFCI outlet will act as an alert but in a short circuit, you may be alerted by smoke or sparks. Both events can be caused by damaged wiring. Loose connections in the fuse box may cause short circuits, while overloaded circuits can result in ground faults.

What Is a Ground Fault?

An electrical system can experience a number of different types of faults—defined as any abnormal flow of electricity. A ground fault is a type of fault in which the unintentional pathway of the straying electrical current flows directly to the earth (to the ground). Here, too, the circuit is "short," in that it has bypassed the circuit wiring, so a ground fault can technically be defined as one type of short circuit. And, as with any short circuit, the immediate impact is a sudden reduction in resistance that causes current to flow in an unimpeded fashion. Like other types of short circuits, a ground fault causes the circuit breaker to trip due to the uncontrolled flow.

But for an electrician, a ground fault is generally defined as the situation when a hot wire makes contact with either the grounding wire or a grounded portion of the system, such as a metal electrical box. Electricians, therefore, think of a ground fault as being different than a short circuit, although an electrical engineer would see it somewhat differently.

The main danger of ground faults comes in the likelihood of shock if a person happens to be in contact with the path of least resistance to the ground. This is why the danger of shock is much more pronounced in situations where a person is standing on the ground or in a damp location.

Protection against ground faults is offered by circuit breakers that trip if the flow of electricity suddenly increases, and by a system of grounding wires in the circuits that provide a direct pathway back to ground should current stray outside its established circuit wiring. There are also ground-fault circuit interrupter outlets that can be used in situations where ground faults are particularly likely, such as in outdoor locations, near plumbing fixtures, and in below-grade locations.

What Is a Short Circuit?

A short circuit is any electrical flow that strays outside its intended circuit with little or no resistance to that flow. The usual cause is bare wires touching one another or wire connections that have come loose. The immediate impact is that a large amount of current suddenly begins to flow. This in turn causes the circuit breaker to trip , instantly stopping all current flow. This condition is known as a "short" circuit because the current is bypassing the full circuit wiring and flowing back immediately to the source by a shorter pathway.

For electricians, a short circuit is usually defined as a situation in which a hot wire makes contact with a neutral wire, such as when a hot wire loosens from its connection and makes contact with the neutral wire or vice versa.

Short circuits can occur when insulation on wires melts and exposes bare wires. The principal danger of a short circuit is arcing or sparking that may occur as electrical current jumps from a hot wire to a neutral. This situation can easily cause fires. Short circuits can also occur within the wiring of individual devices, such as lamps or other plug-in appliances. Frayed or otherwise damaged electrical extension cords or appliance cords can also cause short circuits.

Protection against short circuits is provided mostly by circuit breakers, which trip and shut the circuit off when current begins to flow in an uncontrolled fashion. A special type of circuit breaker, an arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) is now commonly used. It senses arcing, or sparking, and shuts off the current even before the current flow overloads the breaker.

When It's a Ground Fault or a Short Circuit

Both short circuits and ground faults can happen if you fail to turn off power to the circuit before working on it. Bare wires can inevitably touch the wrong places: Hot wire to neutral wire means a short circuit that causes sparks to fly; hot wire to grounding wire, or to grounded metal box means ground fault and possible shock but sparks again will fly and burn can occur if you are touching the ground wire or metal box. To avoid these serious problems, always turn off the circuit before you begin working on any section of it.

Common Causes of Ground Faults

• Water leaking into an electrical box can cause a ground fault, since water is a conductor of electricity.
• Worn hot wires or hot wires that are not completely seated into their terminals may come into contact with ground wires or grounding devices or boxes .
• Power tools or appliances without proper insulation can cause a ground fault if faulty wiring causes current to flow directly to ground. When working outdoors or below grade, always plug tools into GFCI outlets or use GFCI-protected extension cords .

Common Causes of Short Circuits

• A loose connection on one of two wires in a junction box or outlet box or incorrect wiring may cause a short circuit.
• A short circuit can occur when a wire slips off of a terminal on an electrical device, such as an outlet. When it touches another wire, a short circuit ensues.
• An appliance may encounter an internal wiring problem, causing a hot wire and neutral wire to accidentally touch.
• Insects or rodents may chew the wire insulation and cause a short circuit between two wires within a cable bundle.

Protect with tripped circuit breaker/GFCI outlets

Prevent by testing ground fault equipment

Perform checks for worn wire insulation

Protect with tripped circuit breakers/AFCI devices

Prevent by updating outlets over 15 years old

Perform annual circuit breaker maintenance

A line-to-ground fault is a short circuit between one line and the ground. It's often caused by physical contact due to lightning or storm damage. This is the most common fault occurrence.

A ground fault occurs when electrical current unintentionally flows directly to the ground, bypassing the circuit wiring, resulting in what can technically be called a "short" circuit. Like any short circuit, it causes a sudden reduction in resistance, allowing current to flow freely.

Signs of a ground fault include tripped circuit breakers, flickering lights, a burning smell near electrical sources or clicking and buzzing sounds coming from outlets.

Grondzik, Walter T., and Alison G. Kwok. Mechanical and Electrical Equipment for Buildings . Wiley , 2015.

More from The Spruce

• Understanding Arc Faults and AFCI Protection
• How to Reset a Tripped Breaker
• What Happens When a Fuse Blows
• Tips for How to Wire an Outlet and Three-Way Switch
• What Is a Short Circuit, and What Causes One?
• GFCI Receptacle vs. GFCI Circuit Breaker
• How Does a Light Switch Work?
• What Is a Circuit Breaker Panel?
• Line or Load With GFCI Connection
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• Understanding Electrical Grounding and How It Works
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How to Fix a Breaker That Keeps Tripping

"Ok, where's the flashlight?"

We've all had to deal with tripped circuit breakers . They're annoying and happen at the worst times. As a licensed electrician, I've seen my fair share of breakers, tripped or otherwise.

Circuit breakers monitor the flow of electricity through a circuit. If it exceeds a preset amount, it opens the circuit to stop the current flow. They're a vital piece of your home's electrical system. And when they trip, they're trying to tell you something.

Occasional trips are not something to be alarmed about. But if a circuit breaker in your home keeps tripping, it could be a sign something's wrong.

How To Know if Your Circuit Breaker Is Tripping

If your breaker trips, go to your electrical panel and open the front cover. There should be two columns of circuit breakers and, hopefully, nice labels indicating what circuits each one controls. Most breakers will be on, so look for the one with the handle in a different position than the others.

On every breaker, there will be an "On" and "Off" position. On a tripped breaker, the handle will be in the middle, neither On nor Off. To reset, flip the handle to Off first, then to On. Stand to the side of the panel and turn your face away when flipping breakers. If an arc flash occurs, it may save your life.

Why Does My Circuit Breaker Keep Tripping?

Circuit breakers trip when too much electricity flows through the breaker. Circuit breakers are rated based on how much electricity can safely flow through the electrical circuit they're protecting. When that's exceeded, the breakers trip. A 20-amp breaker trips when more than 20 amps of current is on the circuit.

Circuit breakers trip for three main reasons:

• Short circuits;
• Ground faults.

What Is a Circuit Overload?

An overloaded circuit has too many things running on it at once.

Imagine a kitchen with a microwave and an air fryer next to each other. Kitchen small appliance circuits are 20 amps. A 1,200-watt microwave draws 10 amps. A 1,700-watt air fryer draws about 14 amps. Running both appliances at the same time puts 24 amps on a circuit designed for 20 amps.

Over time, those extra amps will damage the wires by generating excessive heat. A circuit breaker stops this overload condition by opening the circuit.

What Is a Short Circuit?

A short circuit happens when a hot wire comes in contact with another hot wire, or the neutral or ground. When a circuit operates normally, current flows on the hot wire from your electrical panel to a light, appliance or other load. Then it goes back to the panel via the neutral.

If the hot and neutral accidentally touch each other, the current takes a "shortcut" back to the panel instead of going to the load. The electricity generated by this contact is many times higher than if it was being used by a light or appliance. It's an extremely dangerous situation that can cause shocks and fires.

What Is a Ground Fault?

A ground fault is a type of short circuit. Ground faults happen when a hot wire touches a non-current carrying part of the electrical circuit, like a metal box or pipe. It's important for that unintentional, really high current to have a place to go, so non-current-carrying parts of your home's electrical system are bonded together and connected to a ground.

If there's no purposeful path to channel that ground fault current safely, it will go through anything available, including you. Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) are specifically designed to monitor for ground faults, but regular circuit breakers also provide protection.

How To Fix a Circuit Breaker That Keeps Tripping

If your breaker keeps tripping, investigate and fix the problem. Here are a few ways to narrow down the possibilities. Always call a licensed electrician if the issue becomes too involved.

Check for overload

Figure out which area of the house the tripped breaker controls, then turn off and unplug everything in that area. Lights, microwaves, computers, everything. Then go turn on the breaker. If the breaker trips immediately, even with nothing plugged in, it's likely you have a short, not an overload.

If the breaker holds, go back to the room and start plugging things in and turning them on one by one. After each item, pause, then do the next one. When the breaker trips again, you know you've reached your limit for that circuit. Redistribute the loads more evenly between circuits if possible.

Check for a short in a specific appliance

Shorts and ground faults can occur within an appliance or other electrical device when a hot wire touches the housing.

Note the last thing you plugged in when the breaker tripped while checking for an overload. If you plug that appliance or device into another circuit, does that circuit trip as well? If so, unplug the device immediately and don't use it until it's replaced or serviced.

Call an electrician for shorts and ground faults in the wiring

If the breaker trips immediately upon resetting, even with nothing plugged in or turned on, it's likely something in your home's wiring causing the problem. This could be a loose connection at a receptacle or other device, or something more complicated, like worn insulation within your walls.

If you have electrical experience and can determine which device is causing the short, replace the device or correct the loose wire. If you're not experienced, or you smell something burning or see scorch marks on your walls, call a professional licensed electrician. Do the same if you have repeated problems with flickering lights or tripping breakers.

Electrical fires and shocks are dangerous, and shorts and ground faults are difficult to find. A pro can diagnose and fix the issue, providing peace of mind.

The Circuit Detective

Home electrical troubleshooting, afci circuit breaker troubleshooting.

An arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) is a circuit breaker* located in your electrical panel that serves the functions of a normal breaker but also senses hazardous arcing on its circuit and will trip off for this. It can be identified by the special colored test-button near its handle. (Ground-fault breakers also have a button, so read with a magnifying glass to be sure which kind your breaker is.)

*A different device is now allowed away from your breaker panel. It resembles the familiar GFCI receptacles. (Its installation is more strict, however.) It is called an "outlet/ branch-circuit type of AFCI" or simply AFCI outlet or AFCI receptacle.

AFCI breakers began to be required by Code in 2002 for new wiring supplying bedrooms. The areas to be protected were expanded in 2008 (where that national Code has been adopted locally) to most rooms of the home. The areas left out of the requirement were garage, bathroom, kitchen, and laundry; these were already required to have ground-fault protection for receptacles, but the 2017 Code includes them in the AFCI requirement too.

It is relevant to AFCI circuit breaker troubleshooting that most AFCIs have a level of ground-fault protection built into them as well. (If this level becomes standardized to meet Code for GFCI protection, such AFCIs will make it possible to meet both AFCI and GFCI codes simultaneously.)

The Five Possible Causes of an AFCI Breaker Tripping

A standard breaker will trip for an overload, a short circuit, or overheating at itself (the first three causes below). To solve their tripping usually involves sorting out which of these three causes is at work. But with an arc-fault breaker, there can be two additional causes to add to the list (the fourth and fifth below):

• An Overload - when electrical usage would have begun to overheat a circuit's wires
• A Short Circuit - very high current resulting from a fault on the circuit
• An Overheating Breaker - when the breaker itself has poor contacts or connections
• A Ground-Fault - smaller leakage off of the intended circuit. In this I include shock hazards, neutral to ground faults, and the differing current on the neutral wire when it is being shared by another circuit.
• An Arc-Fault - sparking happening on the circuit or its lights or appliances

Troubleshooting an AFCI That Trips

Which of the five causes has tripped an AFCI breaker can be quite important in how you go about solving the problem. Some AFCI brands may have an indicator on them that will show (if you haven't already reset!) whether the cause of the last trip was an arc-fault or not. But you will still need to know what to fix and where. The table below also shows some additional causes having to do with the breaker itself or with long-standing things about the wiring in the house.

NOTES to narrow down which cause:

• To tell whether immediate tripping is from a ground-fault versus a short circuit, you might have to temporarily replace the AFCI breaker with a standard breaker (putting the solid white wire from the AFCI's terminal into the panel's neutral/ground bar). If the standard breaker holds, then the problem is more often a ground-fault, less often an arc-fault.
• In the case of an arc-fault device introduced into an existing home, a common cause of tripping will be that the neutral of the circuit is mixed somewhere with the neutral of another circuit ["(4)" above]. The two common places this mixing of neutrals would occur are at a 2-gang or 3-gang switch box where both circuits are present, or in a 3-way switch system where the neutral for the light(s) has been borrowed (improperly) from the other circuit.
• Although I have never yet been called to find the location of an actual arc that was tripping an AFCI, here is what could be done. As long as you do not leave it in place beyond your time of vigilant searching, a standard breaker could be put in the panel in place of the AFCI. You might then be able to hear, see, or smell signs of heat or arcing; blinking lights on the circuit would give additional clues. I am comfortable suggesting what might sound like playing with fire, because few cases of arcing are ever able to start fires. In most homes (most don't have AFCIs), when arcing at connection points ("series" arcing) has been happening for a while, it does commonly show itself eventually as a partial outage of the circuit, from the arcing point on. This can then be troubleshot more easily.
• Some appliance models, during their normal operation, have been known to trip an AFCI, by its sensitivity to either arcing (in flat-screen TV, vacuum, other motor) or to ground-faults (in treadmill, fluorescent lights). There may not be anything wrong with the appliance or breaker, unfortunately. HAM radio transmissions have also been known to cause GFCI and AFCI tripping (see this site for details).
• If the AFCI breaker lets you reset it and does not repeat its tripping, you do not need to know or to worry about the cause. For the record, it was probably an overload or arc-fault that was only a one-time event.

By the 2014 Code, anyone (including homeowners) replacing a receptacle in most rooms of a house will be required to make it be arc-fault protected. This will have to be accomplished by installing a costly device there or earlier in the circuit. No more "if it's broken, just replace it." From the beginning, homeowners, electricians, and contractors have questioned the importance and suitability of AFCIs.

"I'm a retired police Lieutenant so writing a note to a detective is familiar to me. What wasn't familiar, (because I just found your site and bought your e-book), was how to troubleshoot an AFCI! The information posted on your site confirmed my solution. Now I'll have your Circuit Down to follow in the future." -Mike