ford excursion dually conversion

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six-door, excursion and dually conversions

Are you looking to make your pickup really stand out? We offer a full array of customization options. Excursion, dually and 6 door conversions from mild to wild and anything in between. 

Completed six-door, excursion and dually conversions

Our creation Process

2015 Ford F350 Platinum Pickup

Give us a call and we can build an Excursion or 6 Door to your liking!

WHERE DO WE START……

This Excursion started life as a 2015 Ford F350 Platinum pickup.

Excursion Conversion

Interior: Full platinum interior, 2nd row captains chairs w/ a/c and heat and full power. platinum covered 3rd row. Video in motion to unlock stock navigation, Led conversion, 1000w power inverter, 13″ audiovox drop down with hdmi cord, Escort 9500ci hidden radar w/ shifter, Phoenix gold 12″ SX woofer in custom spare tire enclosure, 5 channel amplifier, ti265cs and ti265cx speakers, roof, floor, doors and sides all sound deadened.

Exterior: 6″ Fabtech Dirt Logic Coil Over lift Pro comp traction bars, BMF Novikane 22×10.5 w/ Toyo Open Country RT 37/12.5/22 tires, Amp Research XL Power Boards.

Front and rear Road Armor bumpers paint matched, Rigid Industries d2 dually fog lights (x4) srm reverse lights, warn vr1200 winch, Recon Headlights with Putco LED conversions hi and low, LED Rear taillights, Recon F350 illuminated fender emblems, Bushwacker’s bolt on style fender flares, color matched and modified for rear door.

Paint match outer shell of grille, install Rough Country 30″ light bars in grille, Kleinn HK9 Pro Blaster triple train horns with upgraded ultra Blastmaster, Clear bra paint protection on bumpers, hood, grille, rockers, fender flares.

Full 5″ MBRP performance exhaust, S&B intake and custom tune.

Email us at [email protected] or give us a call at 605-787-4179 to inquire on your next build!

Our Services

- Hail and Collision Repair

- Remote Car Starters

- Restorations

- Fiberglass and Gel Coat Repair

- Six-Door and Excursion Conversions

- Mobile Audio & Video Installation

- Custom Conversions

Opening Hours

Mon - Fri: 7am - 6pm

2660 Haines Avenue

Rapid City, SD 57701

Tel: 605-787-4179 [email protected]

© 2020 by Kustomz Truck & Auto Inc.

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Superduty Conversions

99-07 F250/F350 to 2022 Ford Super Duty Conversion - Front Kit

99-07 F250/F350 to 2022 Ford Super Duty - Complete Conversion Kit

99-07 F250/F350 to 2022 Ford Super Duty Conversion - Rear LONG Bedsides

99-07 F250/F350 to 2022 Ford Super Duty Conversion - Rear SHORT Bedsides

99-07 to 2020 Conversion - Bumper Extensions Only

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Six Door Conversion: We love to drive trucks, just like our customers. But, sometimes a 4 door truck just isn’t big enough. Enjoy the luxury of added space without the compromise of fuel mileage or towing capabilities. The 6 door is the ultimate truck! Available for Ford, Dodge, GM, and Toyota trucks. Also available for the Ford Excursion. With this conversion there is no need to compromise, you can fit up to 9 people while still having the use of your truck bed.

In order to make sure our customers are completely satisfied, each of our 6 door trucks are planned out step-by step to meet your needs. We use quality factory parts and we ensure that our builds are seamless, inside and out. We never settle and we make sure each of our 6 door trucks look as if they came from the factory, guaranteed.

Interior:  We use factory interior pieces in order to match the original interior front to back.  We build custom headliners and carpet so there are no seams showing. We make sure the new interior plastic matches the original and flows perfectly from front to back. We plan out an interior layout that works for each of our customers. From factory captains chairs and bench seats to custom leather seats and center consoles, we build an interior that is right for you.

Towing and Hauling:  We build trucks for people who tow and haul with them everyday. Our 6 door trucks are no exception. We engineer our frame pieces to maintain the structural integrity of the truck frame. We stand behind our work and we guarantee that you will be able to tow and haul just as much as you did before the conversion without any risk of damaging the frame of your truck. In fact, towing capabilities are improved.

The result : The ultimate truck.  You get all of the comfort and room you need while still having a truck bed.  Tow 5th wheel trailers without any worry. Our customers all agree, the 6 door conversion is the best way to fit the whole family while still having the luxury and convenience of driving a truck. The truck will tow better, ride smoother, and fit more passengers comfortably.

Please contact us today for more information and pricing on a six door conversion for your truck.  

Six Door 2016 Denali 3500

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2012 Ford F350 six door interior

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2000 Ford F250 six door

2000 Ford F250 Six Door

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6 door Excursion

6 door excursion

2012 Ford F350 Super Duty Six door

2012 Ford F350 Super Duty 6 door

Ford F650 6 door conversion

Platinum 666

Platinum 666 at the Salt Flats

Ford F350 Platinum 6 door

Platinum 666 at sunrise at the salt flats

Questions about a six door conversion?

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RAD-Rides Excursion Conversion

Some of us demand vehicles that are large, rugged and powerful. Sure, you can go pick an SUV or truck up off of the showroom floor, but maybe it’s time you ordered a truck that has been completely customized to your liking.

RAD-Rides , a Texas-based automotive engineering provider, has noticed the need for a capable SUV that can be customized from the ground up. Thus, they created their very own Excursion Conversion Packages . Each of these conversions uses a Ford F250 from years 2011-current. With the truck, they can create either a four-door or six-door Excursion, each coming with 22-inch Fuel Wheels, 37-inch Toyo tires, electric running boards, Bushwacker Flares, 6-inch Pro Comp Lift and a 5 Year 60k Mile Pro Comp Lift Warranty.

[soliloquy id=”99256″]

After the base truck is created, that’s when RAD-Rides gets to work on implementing the myriad of options the customer can choose from. From the interior, to the exterior, each finished Excursion is unique thanks to the options. You can view the options by clicking the plus symbols below.

[accordion] [item title=”Interior Options”]

• Gun Vault – Two Compartments (Code or Remote Lock)
• Gun Vault Light
• Center Console Gun Safe (Combo Lock)
• Gun Dividers
• Third Row Seating
• ARB Cooler Installed
• Captain’s Seats
• Change Cloth to Leather
• Second Row Heated Seats
• Rear Heat & Air (F-Series Trucks)
• Two Tone Leather
• Wood Grain Dash
• Carbon Fiber Dash
• Painted Dash
• Sound Deadener 4DR and 6DR
• Overhead DVD Player
• Seat Back DVD Players

[/item] [item title=”Exterior Options”]

• Rig Dually LED Lights
• Roof Light Bar
• Baja Roof Rack
• Road Armor Bumper Front
• Road Armor Bumper Back
• Remote Controlled Warren Winch 15,000 lbs
• Recon Headlights
• Fender Flares
• Running Boards
• Electric Running Boards 4DR and 6DR
• Leveling Kit
• Dually Excursions
• After-market Tail Lights
• Chrome Door Handles 4DR and 6DR
• Excursion Super Duty Badges
• Light Bar Installed
• Warren Winch 15,000 lbs

[/item] [/accordion]

Aside with the base packages and options, RAD-Rides also offers the Outdoorsman Excursion Package. With this package, you’ll get the same base features as the previously mentioned packages, but you’ll be able to choose from a long list of options that hunters will be fond of. They add space, extra storage and bonus safety features that will come in handy with each camping trip. You can view these options by clicking the plus symbol below.

[youtube id=”DSIDQDwSJSQ” align=”center” mode=”normal” autoplay=”no” maxwidth=”680″]

After the 800 man hours it takes to build each Excursion Conversion from start to finish, customer’s are greeted with the truck of their dreams. Whether they opted for a lush interior with a standard exterior, or an interior perfect for hunting trips with a rugged exterior to match, the customer’s get a truck that could never be bought off of a showroom floor.

To learn more about what RAD-Rides have to offer or to enquire about your own Excursion Conversion, be sure to visit RAD-Rides.com or click the button below.

[button color=”red” text=”white” url=”http://bit.ly/1Z0Q1YA” window=”_blank”]Learn More[/button]

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Six Polished Aluminum Dually Wheels, Front and Rear Adapters, Mounting hardware, and Accessories

Available for, chevrolet /gmc.

• 3/4 and 1 Ton Single Wheel Trucks (All Generations)
• 3/4 and 1 Ton Single Wheel Trucks (1967 – Current Models)

Polished aluminum wheels & Steel Adapters

Our Kit 499 gives you everything you need to transform your vehicle into a dually. 

The adapters are designed to mount directly to your existing axle studs and require no modifications to your vehicle. Our adapters are machined specifically to each vehicle’s hub diameter for a perfect hub locating fit every time.  Adapters very in size depending on the vehicle application. Please note that adapters and mounting hardware pictured may not look exactly the same as what you order, but will fit perfectly!

The polished aluminum wheels that come with this kit are 17″ in diameter.

• 6 Polished Aluminum Dually Wheels 
• 1 Pair of Rear Magnum Adapters
• 1 Pair of Front Adapters
• Necessary Mounting Hardware
• 2 Rear Stainless Steel Hub Covers
• 2 Font Stainless Steel Hub Covers
• 32 Chrome Lug Nut Covers
• Instructions

Starting at $1,961

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• 8 Lug Dually Adapters
• 8 to 10 Lug Dually Adapters
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• 33mm Round Spike Lug Nut Cover (6″)
• Get a Quote

The Ford Excursion is still alive and it's available with six doors

The last Ford Excursion rolled off the assembly line in 2005, but one Oklahoma-based shop hasn't let the hulking SUV die.

Based in Guthrie, Oklahoma, Custom Autos by Tim continues to make "new" Ford Excursions. The Detroit News profiled the shop in a Tuesday report. The shop typically marries an older Excursion body to a new F-Series Super Duty pickup chassis to create a "new" vehicle. Buyers have a few options. Current owners can bring their SUVs to owner Tim Huskey for a total rebuild, the shop can start from scratch with a Super Duty chassis the buyer provides, or the shop can use one of its stockpile of Super Duty chassis that it offers to buyers. The shop's biggest hook, however, is the fact that it will use the Super Duty chassis to create a stretched Excursion with six doors.

'New' Ford Excursion SUV from Custom Autos by Time

Prices start at $40,000 for buyers who bring their own vehicles, but Huskey said most people spend between $50,000 and $100,000 for a conversion. The business, to put it bluntly, is quite stable.

Huskey said he's certain he has enough business to last him for the next five years. It takes two months to complete each build, and right now, there's a two-month waiting list. The shop does about 40 Excursions each year.

The work varies for each customer, but Huskey is a master fabricator when it comes to building the "new" models. For example, one Excursion kept the original SUV's engine, dashboard, and transmission, while the rest was made up of used Excursions and F-Series Super Duties that had been scrapped due to damage. With business booming, Huskey said he'll need to start using F-650 chassis since they still match up with the Excursion's body. Unfortunately, he added he's not able to work with the latest trucks from Ford with their aluminum bodies .

At Ford, there's reportedly no regret for ending production of the mammoth SUV more than a decade ago. For Huskey, it created an opportunity.

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• Ford Designs
• 4x4 Van Kits
• E-Series Conversions
• G-Series 4x4 Conversions

Ford Econoline 4x4 Van Core Conversion Kit Gen 4 (1992-2024)

Description:.

The Timberline Ford E-series core 4x4 conversion kit streamlines the van conversion process by providing most non-standard components required for 4-wheel drive integration. This comprehensive approach saves time and money by addressing both the major components and finer details that distinguish Timberline builds apart from other DIY projects. 

Alongside this kit, you'll need to obtain the front axle, driveshafts, shocks, transfer case, and any necessary transmission or exhaust components. While specific requirements may vary based on year, model, engine, and transmission, our kit significantly reduces guesswork and consistently delivers safe, high-performance conversions.

We built several hundred vans over the last decade while designing and tweaking the kit, all with the DIY builder in mind. We are consistently regarded for our excellent instruction manuals and attentive customer support. We'll be there to assist you throughout your build and address any questions that arise along the way.

Kits come with a 140-page color-bound manual that is thoughtfully constructed and thorough, covering many variations with helpful tips and tricks we've found along the way. 

We have both a " Prerunner " kit and a more comprehensive " Everything But The Axle " kit. We can build you a custom-kit if you need a few things added or deleted and just send you a link to checkout, you'll have to email for that.

How does this work?

1) Start with the  FAQ section and Ford Design pages will help you wrap your head around everything that goes into this process and at some point you'll want to visit the How-to section , particularly if this is a new concept for you. Call us for a consult if you have questions. 720-515-5933.

2) Choose the kit type from our available options and if you like, email us over your VIN number and a few photos of your van for a more detailed build sheet, mentioning what kit you'd like to work with. 

3) Order your parts either from our site, or we can send you a checkout link or pay by phone/mobile. 

4) Source your remaining parts and assemble your axle while we wrap up your kit and ship it to you, and once it arrives you can get right to work! 

Manual Sample

Here are some sample pages from our Ford 4x4 conversion manual. Our manuals include detailed photography, mechanical drawings, torque specs and helpful tips.

It is our goal to make the process as seamless and productive as possible and we've gone to a great deal to design a product that is field-tested and made for a pain-resistant install.  

4-Link & Track Bar design

We chose the 4-link suspension system for several reasons. Having worked on Superduty trucks before vans, we knew they were sturdy but not ideal for everyday driving with varying loads and occasional off-road trips. Many agree that the extra pivot point and adjustable axle placement of a 4-link setup make for a smoother ride compared to standard radius arms.

Setting up the geometry correctly can be challenging. Through years of testing, we've developed a plug-and-play system that consistently works well with our other components. Our parallel 4-link design is simple, durable, and low-maintenance, thanks to high-quality leaf spring bushings, grade 10 hardware, and easy bolt-up installation.

The track bar system is our most rigid and durable design to date. It reinforces the cradle, provides a deflection free pivot link between the axle and the frame, and it's even now available as a bolt-in affair. If you can weld, that kit is a little more affordable to install and can be done in slightly less time. Drilling is minimized as much as we can across all kits.

Coil springs vs. leaf springs

The ongoing debate between leaf springs and coil springs for 4x4 van conversions has clear benefits favoring the more modern coil spring design. Here's why:

Ride Quality : Your van was designed with coil springs by Ford, tailored to its specific needs. Coil springs offer varied spring rates matching different vehicles, ensuring a comfortable ride without guesswork. Additional weight from the conversion sits below the coil springs.

Turning Radius : Coil spring Superduty axles boast a tighter turning radius compared to leaf spring axles, making parking, U-turns, and navigating tight spots on trails easier.

Compatibility : Superduty axles require no extra programming or wiring for E-series vans from 1975 to 2023, seamlessly integrating with traction control and anti-lock brakes systems.

Availability : The 2005+ Superduty axle is widely accessible, with parts readily available and easy to work with. Our 4-link system is compatible with front truck axles from 2005 to 2023, and our track bar system works with axles up to 2016. Kits for 2017+ axles are available upon request.

While we respect other designs, the advantages of coil springs are apparent. Now, leaf springs can make sense in specific scenarios. Very heavy vans and extreme off-road enthusiasts may benefit from their durability and forgiving nature when other suspension components wear out, but with proper components and care, choosing a coil spring rig ensures a satisfying ride without regrets.

Where do I get an axle & T-case

We cover more of this in the How-to section , but the following is helpful even before you read up there: We've found the site   car-part.com   to be the easiest solution to finding an axle across the country.

2005-2010 F-250 & F-350 axles are the easiest to find in many gear ratios, make sure the axle you're buying has the ratio your van currently has or the one you plan to run.

Single rear wheel and dual rear wheel F-250/F-350 axles are identical with the exception of the dually adapter stubs and the front hub thread pitch which doesn't matter. Our kits are also compatible with the Super 60, Fatboy, Widetrack, etc, axles and Cab/Chassis units.  

Fitment Designed For:

Van Side: 1992-2014 current Ford E-150/E-250/E-350/E-450, Cab and chassis/cutaway variants included

Truck Side: Fits 2005-201 Ford F-250/F-350 SRW or DRW axles, 2013-2016 Ford F-250/F-350 axles (For largest brakes) 

Included in kit:

Dana 60 2005+ Steering Stabilizer Kit Easy-Wire Transfer Case Range LED Indicator Kit Econoline Pitman Arm for Superduty Drag Link Ford 4x4 Van Heavy Duty Pitman Stabilizer Kit Ford Econoline 4x4 Conversion Driveshaft + T-case Hardware Kit Ford Econoline 4x4 Van Bump Stop Drop Kit Ford Econoline Extended Front Brake Lines Ford Econoline Steel Fuel Tank Shortening Blank Ford Econoline to Superduty ABS Wire Jumpers Ford Econoline to Superduty Sway Bar + Link Kit Ford Econoline Transmission Drop Brackets Ford E-series 4x4 Conversion Rear Lift Kit NP271 NV271 Transfer Case Shifter Kit Superduty to Econoline Spring Perch Kit Timberline 4x4 Ford Master Conversion Manual Timberline Econoline to Superduty Trackbar Kit Timberline E-Series Conversion Lower Radiator Hose Guard Timberline Ford 4 Link Kit Timberline Helper Kit

Tools Required:

We have a standard list of tools that we recommend listed in the front of our manual and the Ford Design . It's pretty basic stuff, if you have your own workshop with a lift, you probably have nearly all of them. 

Tips / Skill Level: 

Tips / Skill Level:

1-10 (10 being most difficult) Level 7. There's a great chance if you've made it this far, you more than have the skill-set to complete this conversion. It is involved, but it's very straightforward. If you've done things like lift kits, pulled a transmission, and done a set of ball joints, this will just be another job at the shop. 

This product may work with other model vehicles.  

Price, Shipping, Fulfillment, Taxes, Quality and Returns

• Price + Shipping:  Core-kit flat-rate shipping to the lower 48 is $330 currently. Residential delivery and lift gate service add $90 each so try to work out a commercial delivery address with 2 big humans or a forklift, most kits weigh 200-250lbs.
• We have a Canadian export license and can ship directly to customers as well as handle duties. Alaska, Hawaii, and International shipping is available on request. Typically Canadian GST is 4.5% for businesses and 10% for private individuals. We are charged a $125 brokering fee for Canadian LTL shipments. Due to vast expanse of the great north, shipping and orders must be processed manually for Canadian customers. 
• Shipping time for full kits:   Timberline produces parts and kits on a block schedule listed on the main home-page. Order periods are book-ended at present to ensure consistent fulfillment times. Typically full kits fulfill in 4-8 weeks depending on where in line your order is placed. 
• Taxes : Colorado residents must pay sales tax of 7.5%, no sales tax is collected on out-of-state shipments currently. 
• Quality and Returns:   We are consistently complimented on the quality of our products and the ease of install. Components are hand-built here almost exclusively in Colorado by seasoned professionals who are fanatics about design and execution. If you are in any way disappointed in the components we will issue a full refund less the cost of shipping when the product is returned. If you decide to return any components that didn't apply to your build or you changed your mind about, shipping and a 15% restocking fee will be deducted from the purchase refund. 

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Excursion Dually Conversion

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I have seen several pictures of Excursion Duallys and have sourced the rear fenders. I have done several F250 and F350 dually conversions in the past but have never attempted an Excursion. I have always just swapped out the axles from a wrecked dually truck to avoid any use of spacers or adapters. Will this same principle work for an Excursion? I'm assuming it will. I just completed doing an '07 coil spring swap into an '00 F250 and would probably go the same rout with the Excursion. The ride is so much better. Anybody out there done this? If so any advice and pictures.  

I guess this isn't a very common or popular conversion. Although when you google it there are pictures of a bunch of them. Oh well I guess I'll just have to do some more homework.  

I didn't reply because I have no experience, but, if you consider that the Ex is essentially an F-250 with a different body, you should be able to do nearly anything (suspension-wise) to it that you could do to an 00-05 F-250.  

masakimm said: Fiberglass Rear Dually Fenders Adapters Wheels Conversion Kits. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk Click to expand...

Pretty sure the excursion and the f250 ecsb share the same frame. The excursion springs are junk so swap those rear springs at the same time.  

Yup. Go with the X/Modified B or X/C springs. I don't actually think B and C are the right codes for the dually version of the springs, but most of those decent spring websites......nevermind, I decided to do the leg work for you. lol While I am not saying you should buy from this site, it's a really good resource for determining spring needs. So, over at SD Springs, it looks like the C codes ARE the dually designated springs and B codes are SRW. However, for the record, either would fit, they just change the ride height, spring rate, etc. Anyway, what's really interesting is that the same code spring changes in dimensions depending on what year you pick. They may all be 3" wide and 25 inches from front to center, but the spring pack thickness and the spring arch changes...as well as the add-on spring changes too. Either way, check THIS webpage out for the basic Excursion spring swap info. HERE is the page which shows what springs go to what vehicles. Just click on the super duty and take a look at the various codes and years to determine what you need/want. For example, the C codes from '02-'04 have an arch height of 8 3/16", while the '05-'06 arch is 6 7/8"....but as it turns out, the C code for '02-'04 is for duallys but the C code for '05-'06 is for SRW. So, takes a little research to figure out exactly what you need, but at least the resources are there.  

Wow what a great website. Thank you so much for the info. It will definitely help in making a decision on the springs.  

Much thanks to Weatherlite for the great info and link to the spring company. I thought I had it all figured out and that I was going to go with the C code dually springs. Then I watched a couple of videos of guys going with 08 and up springs. The front mounting hanger has to be moved 8" forward because of the longer springs but from the videos they are supposed to give better load capacity and a much smoother ride. You can either reuse the stock hangers and drill new holes or there is company that makes custom hangers just for this purpose that use existing holes in the frame. Anybody heard of or had any experience with this. If I'm under the truck doing all this work anyway I want to make it the best it can be. Any thoughts?  

I guess it all depends on what kind of ride you're looking for. I went with what amounts to C codes (I modded B codes for extra capacity and arch) and she still rides great. If you want better articulation and smoother ride, I'm sure the08 and up could be great. One question, though.....what would you use for the front to be able to match the rear's improved ride?  

Well I did the front coil spring conversion on my 2000 F350 and the ride and turning radius is amazing so I plan on doing it to the Ex also. I used Fabtech radius arms and Icon progressive rate springs on the F350 but this time I want to go with 4 link arms. They help the ride and stability even more by keeping the camber stable all the way through the articulation of the axle. I have built several wild one off pickups from F150's all the way to a Monster F650 and all in between but never an Ex. I getting older so this might be my last build so I want it to be special and unique.  

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Ford Super Duty Excursion Conversion on JTX Forged Wheels

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2008-2010 Super Duty Front Clip Conversion On 2004 Ford Excursion

The Ford Excursion is the biggest and baddest SUV ever built. But unfortunately, it was only built from 1999-2005. Wouldn’t it be great to have a newer version? Wouldn’t it be great if you could update the look of your current Excursion?

Well, you can.

Ford-trucks.com forum member ‘archtaan’ set out to convert his 2004 Ford Excursion (Eddie Bauer) to a 2010 front clip. He had already swapped to a 2005 grill and 2010 mirrors, but wanted something newer.

In addition to the front clip conversion, he also chose to add fender flares and try to make a 2008-2010 Road Armor winch bumper fit the 2004 front frame horns.

Ordering Parts:

Here is the parts list….. Please do yourself a favor and order them from one of our sponsors. Don’t scrimp on aftermarket sheetmetal. The 2008-2010 stuff requires massaging and tweaking to fit, I could not imagine what aftermarket would be like.

• Hood – Much heavier than the 2004 hood.
• Hood striker that mounts to the hood – U shaped
• Hood hinges
• Fender emblems (upper and lower, vent is two piece)
• Cowl panels (L&R, where the windshield wipers are)
• Grill – I went with the Chrome package grill
• Grill supports that bolt to the hood and grill bolts to it (these support the grill from moving horizontally when the hood is down) + hardware
• Hood striker for the latch + hardware
• Headlights (L&R) – you don’t need the header panel
• Head light plugs to adapt wiring. I just made my own
• Full front bumper with all the brackets (If you are going with a factory bumper)
• Windshield washer nozzles, and the plastic pins that help affix the grill to the hood
• Wiper motor – you can modify the earlier one but it’s a pain in my option
• Hood Hinges
• Hood release
• Secondary hood release cable assembly
• Hood bumpers
• Hood shocks
• Hood retaining bolts (4)
• Shock mounting bolts (2) – the shock attachment ***** are much larger
• Grill bolts, retaining hardware (7)
• Grill bumper (rubber bumpers prevent flexing in the wind)
• Complete set of inner fender retaining hardware (you can reuse some of your old stuff but you need all new push fasteners
• 2010 inner fenders (optional) – you can modify the existing ones. Its probably not worth it

2008 Road Armor Stealth bumper with pre-runner guard. Going to add (2) Lightforce Blitz and (2) Light force Lancers w/ IR covers:

Pocket for (4) Piaa lights. Piaa’s are the only ones that will mount without modification:

Disassembly:

Disconnect battery (both if dual battery setup).

Remove the grill, fog lights and wiring connectors, both fenders, bumper, bumper supports, hood, disconnect windshield wiper hoses (The 2010 has them on the hood instead of the cowl), remove wipers, wiper motor, headlights, header panel, all rubber shielding, hood release, hood struts, hood hinges. Tow hooks. Teardown is pretty straight forward.

Sheetmetal Install / Mockup:

Once all the original factory front parts are removed, fit the 2010 fenders on first. You will need to cut the factory mounting tabs on the back side of the fender near the door edge. It’s the middle tab. It gets in the way with the body tabs already there. These tabs push the fender out too far. Also, the horn is behind the passenger fender. It will need to be relocated to where the window washer bottle is inside the inner structure. It’s too wide for the new fenders. You disconnect the factory wiring harness, relocate it and plug it in. I attached it to the inner fender with a few sheetmetal screws. It’s a tight fit with the washer bottle there, but it does fit.

You’ll need to make a couple of the top fender bolt holes larger to allow more movement/adjustment left/right/front/back. Fit the fender to the door and then go forward. The lower bolt hole stays the same but required 3/4″ worth of shims. You will need to make one mounting plate/bracket to screw to the fender, then the plate will bolt to the truck’s mounting tab. The new fenders mount much higher in the front near the cowl support, and will require spacers to fit. You also need to trim the factory sheetmetal mounting holes, and use larger washers to cover up some of the cutting. I pre-fabbed all the tabs and holes prior to paint.

Here are two photos of the holes. Notice the square holes at both ends are notched.

Miller Diversion Tig welder. I used this to make all the brackets and tabs.

This tab is needed to secure the fender in the centerline. After tigging (welding) it in, you need to test fit it and make an adjustment hole. I used a step bit and a Dremel to get it right. Large washers are your friend.

This gives you an idea of how much higher the fenders sit.

Front near cowl:

Rear most vertical bolt:

OK, fenders and hood back from paint. Nothing fancy.

Hood – be sure to tape all your edges. Also, run a tap through the bolt holes. The hood is a minimum (2) person job. It’s twice as heavy as the 2004 hood, and even worse with the grill and supports on it.

Mount the hood latch. I used Loctite, but may not be necessary.

Now the Fenders – Don’t mount the grill inserts yet!!!! You need to get your hand in there to tighten the bolts for the custom tab!

This sheet metal screw goes through the top factory bracket to secure the fender to the a-pillar area. You mount it by opening the door and coming at it from the side. Pre drill the hole! Don’t go crazy and push through and dent your fenders! A really long drill bit helps here a lot!

This is the tab you have to make. This was painted when the fenders were painted at the shop. This is a mock-up photo:

Lines are looking pretty! Note the 2-piece fender emblem. It is easy to install and remove without the top piece attached. You have to mount this part after you reach in and tighten down the tab bolt. The fender looses its bow so to speak with this in, it is semi-structural in a way I guess.

You will need to massage the panel into place and probably remove and reinstall it several times to get it right.

You need the vents out to get your hand in there to tighten the bolt.

Here is a backside photo of the fender vents:

Since the top part is removable, I plan on getting a custom one made with the Excursion logo. Just need to get around to having it done. I have F250 ones right now. The bottom portions won’t stay in securely without the top portion, and both are needed to add rigidity to the fender.

The grill, fenders, and hood are on.

Note – These photos are all pre-paint. I mocked everything up to make sure all the adjustment slots, shims, etc were good to go.

The hood is simple. Bolt it up to the hinges which have the new struts attached. Don’t tighten it all down until after you get the fenders pretty much squared away. I had to shim under the drivers side hinge to get the height right. Once you have all your lines pretty and even, start tightening it all down.

You have to use the 2008 struts, and you will need the 2008 fender strut ball as well, since the attachment point is larger. The 2004 struts were too weak to hold up the heavier hood. The hinges can be reused.

The grill is easy to install. The grill has vertical tabs that fit into holes in the leading edge of the hood. Snap it in. You will the mount the (7) upper attachment nuts. After that bolt, the (2) vertical grill supports using m10 fasteners. Finally install the Hood bumpers and the grill bumpers. Adjust as necessary.

Now the fun begins…..

You will notice in the photo above that the 2004 frame horns are in the way of the grill, and do not allow the hood to close all the way. They have to go. The 2008-2010 front frame bends downward in the front and is about 9-inches lower than the 2004. Not a hard fix. You need a plasma cutter. (A cutoff tool, Oxy/ace torch will work too…)

While the torch is hot (or you can use a cut off wheel), you might as well make your clearance cuts for the headlights. Make sure you know what is behind before you cut!!!!

Here is an idea of what has to go:

Here you can see another cut needed for headlights. Again, be careful what is behind where you are cutting.

Once the cutting is done, clean up your edges and apply some paint to protect them from rust.

The top tab of the headlight will need to be bolted to the core support. Mock it up, drill a hole, and attach the bolt.

The headlight just pushes into the tabs in the fender. The lights want to push the outside edge of the fender in, so I used threaded rod to support the front of the fender to the inner fender. If you are using a factory 2008 bumper, it will have the needed brackets to attach everything.

Here’s the front clip all mounted up without the bumpers. You can see where the factory frame horns get in the way during mock up, and how the headlights bow out the fenders. Prior to threaded rod.

Wiring was pretty easy. Black to Black and Black (one ground is high / one ground is low) Blue to low, and Red to high beam. The marker bulb and turn signals simply mounted in, no modifications required.

After paint and frame horns cut off.

I also pulled all the Trim off as well.

You have to make some mounts to get the front of the fenders to pull back in and line everything back up. I used threaded rod.

Bumper Time:

Ok, this sucker is heavy, and takes at least (3) people to put into position.

My application required some heavy customizing.

A 12×6 plate of 500 Brinnell armor plate steel was welded vertically flush to the frame horn. Triangulated braces were then cut and welded to the lower blocker bar and frame area. (4) bolt holes were drilled, 3-inch DOM steel tube spacers were cut, and Grade 8 hardware was used to mount her all up. I also pre-mounted the winch and (1) set of the PIAA’s. The other set was back ordered.

I still need to mount the cowl panels, mess with the inner fender liners, and the other (2) tabs for the other two light force lights.

The fender liners can be massaged into place with a heat gun. You can see here where they are not attached since they are shorter than the 2008 style.

So here is where we are so far. You can see why fender covers are needed:

Fender Flares:

Laying out the Bushwacker Fender Flares. This is a 2008-2010 Flare. The fenders and stone guards were Line-X’d. Cost was $100.00 locally.

The front is pretty much a bolt on deal. The extra bolts also help keep the inner liner in place.

The rears are a much different story.

Since rears are not made for the Excursion, you have to get the 1999-2005 Superduty flares. Here is the problem:

The flare covers the door and doesn’t fit the rear contour correctly. The answer for me was to vertically trim the flare matching the door line, and then filling the inside of the pieces with fiberglass since they are hollow.

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