cruise control not working abs light on

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FIXED: Cruise Control Turning Off and ABS Light

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Yup, if replacing any part and a problem continues or starts up, alway start checking for a defective replacement part. I learned that with the only NON MOPAR in my stable of 4(a Kia Spectra of my daughter). chased a DTC for a full year until I replaced a part that was installed by a shop when she bought it!  

Glad to hear you got everything fixed. Where did you purchase the moog hub assembly from? I purchased one from Advance and had it go bad after 1.5yrs and about 15k miles, they warrantied it for me without a problem. I don’t know if I had any cruise control problems though as I hardly ever drive highway. I feel that the quality of moog parts just isn’t there anymore. I have to replace the oem left side. I think I’m going to try a hub from Detroit axle as they offer a 10yr warranty. I think I’ll be looking into that scanner as well.  

Both of the Moog hubs, first and replacement, came from Rockauto.com. That's the first Moog part I've had a problem with, so it has me just slightly concerned. The scanner has been a great purchase in just the 1 week I've had it.  

Haven’t had an issue with the moog hub from ra that I put on the Sebring but the one on my avenger didn’t last. Between the 2 cats we’ve been through 2 sets of moog front endlinks each.  

I bought the Bluedriver a couple of years ago, works well.  

I am having The same issue I replaced the hub assembly on all four wheels and now my ABS light and my traction control light is on and I have no cruise control whatsoever I'm assuming it could be the same thing you think? 2014 Dodge Avenger SE  

pull codes, don't just go guessing. Probably just one bad bearing or more likely an abs sensor. Without being able to read all 4 wheels, traction control gets disabled by default. as a bonus, no traction control, no cruise either  

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Cruise control not working, ABS light on, brake light on

Diagnose and fix cruise control not working on gm vehicles.

The infamous GM ignition switch failures can show up in many ways. One that baffles many people is when they the cruise control not working along with the ABS light on and the Red brake light on. The key to diagnosing the issue is when you find there’s no power at fuses 44, 48, 39, 51 and 52 in the rear fuse block.

Chevrolet rear fuse box diagram

Check power at base of steering column

Disconnect connector C201 at the base of the steering column. With the key in the RUN position, check for battery voltage on terminals D1 and B5. If you detect LESS than full battery voltage at D1, check voltage at B5. Both should have full battery voltage. If not, replace the ignition switch

Connector C201 at base of steering column

Replace ignition switch

Disconnect battery

Disable airbag system and wait for it to power down

Remove the hush panel and knee bolster

Remove the steering column trim covers

Insert the key and turn to RUN position.

Push a hex key into the hole on top of the lock cylinder and push down. Pull the lock cylinder straight out.

Use tool J42759 or another tool to release the lock tabs holding the ignition switch in place.

Chevrolet ignition switch

Pull the IGN switch out of the lock cylinder housing. Disconnect the electrical connector

DO NOT ALTER the position of the GEARS between the lock cylinder and the ignition switch. You MUST verify that the gear is in the proper position before installing the new switch. If you don’t, the misalignment will cause the switch to remain in partial ON position and drain your battery. Insert a screwdriver and turn the gear to align if you’ve moved it.

Insert the new IGN switch and make sure the tabs lock into the lock cylinder housing.

Once in place, use a screwdriver to operate the IGN switch to confirm it’s aligned and working properly BEFORE you reinstall the lock cylinder

©, 2018 Rick Muscoplat

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ABS Light and Cruise control not functioning

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Hi, Several months ago my ABS warning light was coming on and off sporadically. Now the light is on all the time. My cruise control was also acting sporadically as well. Now the light is on and my cruise control does not work at all. What should I be looking for? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Chad Brosius  

Get ABS codes pulled. You've probably got a bad speed sensor or wire going to the sensor at one of the front wheels. Cruise will likely be disabled until all four speed sensors are functioning.  

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5 Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

• Updated: March 15, 2023

It would be difficult to find a vehicle on the road today without cruise control. This invaluable feature makes driving long distances easier but can also cause trouble when it malfunctions. Understanding the reasons your cruise control stopped working ensures that you can get the problem fixed quickly for a more enjoyable ride. 

While this fault can cause issues with the cruise control system itself, there could also be an effect on the acceleration of your vehicle. That’s why you want to have it looked at as soon as you notice a problem. Let’s take a quick look at the reasons your cruise control may have stopped working.

Reasons Why Your Cruise Control Stopped Working

The most common reason a cruise control stops working is due to a blown fuse or a defective brake pedal switch . It can also be caused by issues with the throttle control system or the ABS. In older cruise control systems, it can be caused by a broken vacuum line.

Here is a more detailed list of the possible reasons your cruise control is not working:

1. Blown Fuse

All electrical systems in the vehicle are controlled by fuses. Your cruise control system is attached to a fuse that can blow if there is a short circuit or fault. Without a good fuse, the cruise control system can’t work at all.

Thankfully, it’s not difficult to find and replace a blown fuse. Look in the owner’s manual to find the fuse that corresponds with the cruise control technology. 

2. Defective Brake Pedal Switch

The brake pedal switch is responsible for turning the brake lights on and off based on the pedal position. Cruise control systems are designed to disengage whenever your brake pedal gets pressed. 

Because the cruise control is wired into the brake pedal switch, any fault can cause it to stop working. When the brake pedal switch malfunctions, the car believes the brakes are engaged, causing the system to turn off automatically. Not only that, but your car’s brake light might also be stuck on, leaving confused drivers in your wake. 

3. Malfunctioning Speed Sensor

Speed sensors are located on every wheel or differential. The purpose of these sensors is to monitor the speed of the wheels to determine if traction control is needed. 

The speed sensors are also part of the cruise control system. When a sensor fails, the cruise control can stop working and the speedometer might act strange as well. 

If there is an issue with a speed sensor, it will often show with an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

RELATED: 3 Symptoms of a Bad ABS Wheel Speed Sensor

4. Electrical Issues

The cruise control system is electronic, with many components working together to make the system operate. If the cruise control fails to work, you want to check the wiring harness and associated connectors for a fault.

You also need to ensure that the voltage source is supplying enough power to the system. Even the smallest fault can cause defects with the cruise control. In many cases, there can be an issue with the cruise control lever or buttons causing the cruise control to not engage.

If your cruise control buttons are located on the steering wheel it could also be caused by a bad clock spring, which is located behind the steering wheel.

Check the system with an OBD2 scanner to look for any trouble codes related to the cruise control.

RELATED: 5 Symptoms of a Broken Clock Spring, Location & Replacement Cost

5. Damaged Vacuum Actuator, Hoses or Cable (Older cruise control)

If you drive an older vehicle with cruise control, you might have an issue with the vacuum actuator or the cable that connects to the throttle. If there has been damage done to the vacuum hoses or the actuator, the cruise control will stop working altogether.

Additionally, the cable linking the actuator to the throttle must be in good shape. If it has been broken, the cruise control will fail. 

What is Cruise Control?

Cruise control is a feature that is used when you are traveling at a consistent speed. Cruise control was first introduced for automobiles in the 1950s. However, it took many years before it became a staple in the modern vehicle.

This electrical system allows you to set a predetermined speed and take your foot off of the gas pedal. If you are on a long drive, there is less fatigue because you don’t have to try to maintain your speed. Cruise control can also benefit fuel economy because the vehicle uses less fuel when traveling steadily. 

In newer cars, you might be able to find adaptive cruise control , which is a smart technology. Adaptive cruise control allows you to travel at a predetermined speed, but it also helps to maintain a safe distance from the vehicles in front of you with the help of sensors. With conventional cruise control, you need to take over when the car in front of you slows down, but that’s not the case with adaptive cruise control. 

There are also vehicles nowadays with not only cruise control, but fully self-driving vehicles . We will most likely see much more of this in the future.

Cruise Control Repair Cost

The cost to repair your cruise control system depends on what caused it to fail. If you need to replace a cruise control or brake switch, you might spend between $125 and $350, including parts and labor. However, the cost to change a fuse is only a few dollars and you can perform the replacement yourself in just a matter of seconds. 

On the other hand, when something major fails, such as the actuator, you could be looking at a much higher repair bill. In some vehicles, the cost to replace a cruise control actuator can cost more than $700. These costs rise if you drive a luxury vehicle or one that is difficult to get parts for. 

It might not seem immediately important for you to fix the broken cruise control, but this defective system can affect other performance aspects. You could start to notice issues with acceleration or have trouble with the speedometer. To play it safe, it’s always best to have the cruise control repaired as soon as you notice a problem.

Is there a fuse for the cruise control?

Yes. If the cruise control is installed from the factory, you should check your car’s owner’s manual for the fuse location. If it’s an aftermarket cruise control, you’ll need to follow the wires to find the fuse.

Does the brake switch affect the cruise control system?

Yes. The brake switch affects the cruise control system. The brake switch sends a signal to the cruise control system to let it know when the brakes are being applied for the engine to know when it should stop accelerating.

Will the cruise control work if the check engine light is on?

The cruise control function will be disabled when the check engine light is on in most car models, even if the cause of the check engine light is not the cruise control itself. This is mainly due to safety reasons.

Can a vacuum leak affect cruise control?

Older vehicles use vacuum to control the throttle for the cruise control, and in this case a vacuum leak can heavily affect the cruise control. However, modern cruise controls are fully electric and in most cases will not be affected by a vacuum leak if the check engine light is not illuminated.

Although many people may think that the cruise control system is unimportant and not worth spending money to repair, the problem can be caused by a faulty part that will affect the engine’s performance or durability. Therefore, it is best not to ignore the problem if your cruise control is not working without first diagnosing the car properly.

If your cruise control still isn’t working after trying all the tips in this article, it’s probably time to take it in for a professional opinion from a mechanic. It may be a more serious problem that requires replacement parts or repairs. In the meantime, drive safe and enjoy the open road!

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NO Cruise control, abs and brake light on

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So ive been reading through the various forums for our trucks and have not been able to find a solution to my problem. I have a 2007.5 Ram 2500 4x4 6.7 and about six months ago on a cold snowy winter day i hit a big pothole and the truck chimed and the abs and brake lights came on. Shortly after that i realized my cruise control was not working as well. Seeing as it was snowy out the next time i go to hit the brakes the tires locked up so my abs was obviously not working. Then upon acceleration the back tires broke loose in the snow and i noticed that the speedometer was no longer in sync with the speed from the rear wheels but from the front wheels, so as my rear wheels were spinning at prolly around 45mph the fronts were barley rolling through the snow and the speedo was only reading 10-15mph. I immediately suspected the rear wheel speed sensor, so i went right to the auto parts store and picked up a new one and installed it, it didnt change a thing. A friend suggested that i try replacing the hubs in the front but they were not that old and i really didnt think they were the cause so i held off until a couple weeks ago. I replaced both hubs in the front and still no cruise control and both the abs and brake light are still on and it is still reading speed from the front tires now instead of the rear tires. Once in a while if i would pressure wash the entire truck including the underside of the truck the lights would go away for a couple of hours and the cruise would work. then get intermittent for a couple of hours, then come on permanently after about 24hrs and no more cruise. I just inspected the wires going from the rear wheel speed sensor up to the main harness at the frame and cannot find a break or corrosion and the plug looks good. i have checked the fuses a million times and cant find any that are blown. Does anybody have any suggestions?? Im a cruise control addict and its been driving me crazy all summer and fall and im about to be taking my truck on a road trip in a week and cant stand the thought of no cruise control or ABS. Thanks for any help  

I had this happen to me on my 08 1500, it turned out to be the drivers side front ABS sensor wire. The wheel well sliced into the harness above the connector where the grommet is behind the wheel well. But i did loose my cruise and 4WD and the ABS light would come on randomly after a rain storm...and then go away.  

Get that thing scanned... Should tell you exactly what's up no need to guess and waste more money! Throwing parts into something is not very smart especially when there's a warning lamp on  

I been having the same problem for months now, for me it's fuse #30 that's marked as a spare. Every time I replace the fuse it keeps blowing. Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App  

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• Why is my Cruise Control not Working? [14 reasons]

14 Reasons Why your Cruise Control may NOT Be Working

The reason for your cruise control not working could be as simple as a blown fuse to really complex electrical problems. Defective switches, sensors, and even “check engine” light, all could contribute to this problem.

If you like to travel and own a car fitted with cruise control, you know how comfortable it can be to maintain a constant speed! When a cruise control system gets damaged, it is just as annoying as it is dangerous.

Cruise control is connected to several components of the car, and when it fails it can mean that something could be wrong with the CC itself. It could also be a signal that something wrong is happening with any other component of the car.

Why is my cruise control not working?

In this article, I am going to show you the main reasons why your cruise control may not be working (from the simplest to the more complex ones):

Reason #1. Bad or blown fuse

The cruise control’s circuit (like many other electronic components of your car), is protected by a fuse that will blow to protect the system from short circuits and overloads. If your vehicle’s cruise control fuse is blown, the system will stop working.

You can replace the fuse with a new one of the correct amperage, according to your vehicle’s owner manual. If the new fuse doesn’t blow again, everything will be ok; if the fuse blows again, you have to keep searching for what is making that fuse blow.

Reason #2. Burnt brake lamp

Some cruise control systems are disabled when the brake lamp is blown. Check your brake lights. If you find a burnt brake light, just replace it and test the system again.

Reason #3. Defective brake light switch

A defective pedal switch can also make your cruise control stop working. Remember that all cruise control systems are automatically disengaged as soon as the brake pedal is pressed down.

If the cruise control didn’t stop working when a fault in the brake light or brake pedal switch is detected, it could be dangerous; that’s why the CC control unit constantly monitors the status of this switch.

Reason #4. Clutch pedal switch deactivation (for manual transmission vehicles)

Cruise control is deactivated when the clutch is pressed by the driver in manual transmission cars. The CC control unit monitors this switch as it does the brake light switch.

Reason #5. The vehicle speed sensor is not working

A vehicle’s cruise control needs to be able to determine the vehicle’s actual speed. This enables the system to determine how much throttle needs to be applied in order to keep a certain speed, among other things.

The speedometer speed sensor is not always the sensor used by cruise control. Some systems rely on the ABS speed sensors, others do an average and some have a dedicated speed sensor.

If the system can’t detect the vehicle’s speed or detects a problem with the speed sensor, it will stop working.

Reason #6. Faulty throttle body or accelerator pedal

In modern engines, the throttle body is driven electronically by the engine control unit (ECU), and the accelerator pedal works like a potentiometer. The processor managing the cruise control system will act as the accelerator pedal, sending more or less voltage to the throttle body to open or close the throttle body’s butterfly valve.

If there is a problem with your vehicle’s throttle body, your cruise control won’t work.

Reason #7. Check Engine light is “ON”

If your vehicle instrument panel has the “Check Engine Light” ON and the fault stored in the ECU’s memory is related to some component vital for the cruise control system, you will not be able to use your cruise control until you have fixed that problem.

Reason #8. Faulty steering wheel’s spiral cable/clock spring

The spiral cable connects all the switches from the steering wheel (in case your steering wheel has switches) to their respective modules. This includes the connection of the driver’s airbag.

These wires (also called clock springs) are prone to get cut. A faulty spiral cable may have an open circuit making it unable to reach the vehicle’s cruise control module (CCM).

Reason #9. Bad Cruise Control Switch

Your vehicle’s cruise control switches have internal contacts that wear out. If that happens, the switches won’t be able to contact the CCM.

Depending on which buttons are faulty, your whole cruise control can stop working or just some functions won’t work.

Reason #10. Electrical problems with different modules and wiring

Modern cruise control systems use electrical and electronic components, and they are connected to other modules and systems of the vehicle. Some of these systems are the ECU, ABS, and/or Stability Control Systems like ESP.

The CCM makes a check of these systems once the key is switched to ON, and if some of these components are not working in optimal conditions, the CCM won’t engage. If none of the above items seem to be the problem, the vehicle needs to be taken to a professional who can perform a full scan of all the components, check that all the voltages, wiring harnesses, and connectors are ok.

The professional is going to detect if there are any connection problems between modules and will be able to find the reason why the cruise control is not working.

Reason #11. Dirty or faulty camera or sensor (only for vehicles fitted with adaptive cruise controls)

Newer vehicles have adaptive cruise control systems. These devices not only keep a fixed speed by the driver; they also can detect other vehicles ahead and behind and are able to keep a safe fixed distance to avoid collisions.

Some of these new systems have laser sensors while others have cameras to calculate the right distance to follow considering the vehicle’s speed and acceleration. Any problem with the sensors will prevent adaptive cruise control from working.

Problems with older cruise control systems

Before electronic injection and electronic throttle bodies, some cars had the cruise control function. In fact, the first cruise controls were introduced in the early 1950s.

These electromechanical cruise controls are pretty simple. They have a vacuum actuator connected to the throttle linkage that opens and closes the throttle to maintain the vehicle’s speed.

In early injection cars, the throttle linkage was replaced by a cable. Some common faults of these old cruise control systems are:

• A faulty vacuum actuator. Vacuum actuators have a diaphragm inside that can break. Any vacuum leak will lead to failure.
• Faulty vacuum control solenoid. It can prevent the actuator from operating normally.
• Broken throttle cable. If the throttle cable or linkage is broken, it needs to be replaced.

I hope you enjoyed my guide to cruise control problems. Even though it doesn’t explain how to fix your cruise control, it gives you an idea of where to start looking if you are going to do it yourself.

Now you will have an idea about how the system works and what are the possible reasons why it’s failing (in case you have to take your vehicle to a shop to be repaired).

Attention! This article is for informational purposes ONLY and is NOT a replacement for professional advice! ALWAYS consult your local specialist for an appropriate solution to your problem. All statements, prices, contact information, recommendations, and reviews contained herein came from sources that we believe to be reliable, but the accuracy or completeness thereof is not guaranteed. Please contact the service provider for complete details and updates.

I always Know and admit that even though I went to school for ABR grad. In 1994 3.36gpa still have go go back to school for upgrades due to vehicle advancement but I still learned alot although I am dealing with an 05 f150 stx which has more recalls then a auto parts store where the employees don’t know a inerta. Switch from an ignition switch ,thanks for the information

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10 potential reasons why your cruise control is not working

What is cruise control.

Cruise control is a way of maintaining a selected constant speed without needing to use the accelerator pedal. It is closely integrated with the traction control and braking systems.

How do I know if my cruise control is not working?

Cruise control systems have become steadily more complex over time. This means it's not always easy to pinpoint why a cruise control system is not working - especially in newer models.

What happens if my cruise control stops working?

While cruise control can make long journeys easier and less stressful, if the system fails it can be dangerous. For example, it may not be possible to cancel a faulty cruise control system - which could have dire consequences. So if your cruise control only works sometimes, or not at all, avoid using it until you can find a solution - by taking it to a trusted mechanic. Alternatively, you may decide to research the issue and attempt to fix it yourself. However, the safest option is to take it to a garage.

Note: You should always check your vehicle handbook for any fault remedy before carrying out any work on your vehicle. If you are unsure of what is required to fix any problems, please consult a professional.

In this article we'll look at 10 of the most common reasons for a malfunctioning cruise control system.

How do cruise control systems work?

Before we begin, it's important to understand how cruise control systems work.

You must first activate the system by pressing the cruise control 'on' button - normally located by the steering wheel. However, this does not activate the system by itself.

Once you've set the cruising speed, the cruise control module (CCM) notes the present speed, then takes over the throttle body to maintain the speed of the car.

As the vehicle’s speed increases or decreases (due to inclines, for example), the CCM makes adjustments to the throttle body opening.

The desired cruising speed is maintained by modulating the engine speed. This speed can be adjusted, or cruise control can be cancelled by pressing 'cancel' or 'off'. The system is also cancelled if the driver applies the brakes.

Paying attention on the road

Cruise control systems are available with varying levels of complexity.

Aside from basic cruise control systems, ‘adaptive cruise control systems’ are often fitted with radar for maintaining safe distances between vehicles behind and ahead. Some even control engine speed in response to nearby vehicles.

Whichever cruise control system your car has, it's critical you still pay attention to other road users in order to avoid collisions. Cruise control should not be considered a fully ‘autonomous’ driving system.

Electronic throttle control systems (ETCS)

With electronic throttle control systems, cruise control is integrated with the engine control module (ECM). These are also known as 'drive-by-wire' systems because of their semi-autonomous nature.

Note that ETCS system failures may require the attention of a trained mechanic.

What are the top reasons for cruise control failure?

Brake light switch fault.

Cruise control systems will not activate if they cannot detect a working brake light switch. This is because cruise control systems automatically cancelled once the brakes are applied.

How do you repair a break light switch fault?

If you have some understanding of car mechanics, you may be able to examine the brake light switch, which is located below the steering wheel. However, because such systems have multiple wires, it can be difficult to identify any fault.

You may decide to invest in a multi-application service tool/OBD scanner, which can plug directly into your engine’s computer and pinpoint any fault with your brake light switch.

However, rather than spend money on an OBD scanner and learn how to use it, many people simply replace the brake light switch. Many aftermarket brake light switch replacements are available.

Cruise control switch function: worn out

It's possible for a cruise control switch to wear out over time by being pressed too much or too hard. It may also get damaged by drink spillages or by solvent used when cleaning the steering wheel.

This could mean the CCM cannot be communicated with, potentially disabling cruise control entirely.

How do you check if the cruise control switch function has worn out?

You may be able to confirm this is the issue with an OBD scanner. However, you can check this by looking to see if the cruise control light appears on the dashboard when the switch is operated.

Brake light issues

Some cruise control systems will not activate if they detect a blown brake light. Some aftermarket LED lights draw less current than factory-new lights, which can make the cruise control think a light has been blown.

Spiral cable fault

The spiral cable connects electrical circuits in the steering column to elements in the steering wheel - such as the cruise control activation button. If the spiral cable has an open circuit, the switch may be unable to communicate with the CCM.

Check engine light

Engine or transmission problems may automatically lead to the disabling of cruise control - especially if it's of the ETCS type.

Fuses and relays

The cruise control actuator circuit may be protected by fuses or relays. If these are blown or damaged, the cruise control system may not activate.

Vacuum leak

On some older cars vacuum actuators are used to manage the throttle body when cruise control is activated. A cracked tub or shoe could result in a leak, preventing the system from working. It might also make the engine idle higher.

Vehicle speed sensor fault

The modern car often has multiple speed sensors. If the ECM speed sensor signal used by the CCM is lost, cruise control will not work.

ABS sensor faults

If any of the ABS sensors are faulty (there is normally one on each wheel), the cruise control system will not activate.

Electrical problems

Electrical components are integral to cruise control systems, and should therefore be thoroughly checked in the event of a fault. Issues with source voltage, connectors and wiring harness could disable the system.

Credit: xzotica65 - stock.adobe.com

Ford cruise control not working?

If the cruise control system on your Ford is not working, the most likely culprits are still those listed above. However, experienced Ford mechanic “ Build It Make It ” on YouTube argues that burned out brake lights are the most common reasons for cruise control failure - especially on models such as the Ford F150.

The next most common reason for faulty Ford cruise control is a blown fuse . Fuses can be checked with a multimeter if you have the required experience, and then replaced.

Build It Make It then lists a broken brake light switch as being the next most common reason. A faulty shifter actuator is listed as the next most common fault cause. This is a lock to ensure you’re not gear shifting when you don’t have the brake engaged. Since the car cannot detect which gear you’re in, it will deactivate the cruise control as a safety measure.

And the fifth most common reason for Ford cruise control not working is faulty control switches . Unless you have extensive automotive mechanical experience, it may be best to have your control switches replaced by a trained Ford mechanic.

More possible Ford cruise control fault reasons

Auto Repair Guys on YouTube list the following as common reasons for Ford cruise control not working:

• Faulty cruise control fuse (often located under glove box) Note: newer Fords may not have fuses for cruise control
• Faulty control switches
• Faulty brake light switch (sometimes integrated with the cruise control switch)
• Faulty ‘cork spring’ or ‘spiral cable’ - as mentioned this connects the steering wheel controls to the car’s computer.
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Repair guides and support for cars and other vehicles produced by the Chrysler division of the Fiat Chrysler Automobiles US LLC.

john b @johnb78160

Posted: Aug 15, 2015

• Unsubscribe

cruise control quit working

nothing works with the cruise, the "cruise on " indicator light doesn't come on when I push the cruise on/off button on steering wheel

2012 town and country

Is this a good question?

2006 dodge grand caravan. ABS and Break lights come on. I have never used cruise control. Bought it used 3 yes ago. When I turn off the engine the servo unit keeps running. WTD?

Jan 29, 2021 by Robert

I read all the comments and I'll be damned if hitting the steering wheel got mine working aswell!!! Woot! I use it ALL THE TIME! Was lost with out it! 2011 Chrysler Town and Country!

Sep 6, 2021 by Susan May

I can’t believe it…it works! Two hard pounds to the back of the steering wheel near the cruise control switches BOOM ? Thank you to those that answered and commented!

Sep 21, 2021 by Linda Gray

It also worked for me. How long? But it worked. Thank you

Dec 10, 2021 by Richard Dudek

Hello 2014 grand caravan with same issue , a little hit in the steering wheel and works! Thank you

Jun 5, 2022 by Leonel Flores

Show 4 more comments

L Pfaff @lpfaff1

Rep: 101.2k

Posted: Nov 16, 2016

john b , Defective speed sensor, bad cruise switch/wire connection, bad brake light switch,etc can cause cruise not to work properly. If engine light on, record the code to help diagnose the issue. You may have to find a good Tech. to diagnose and estimate repair. Good luck.

I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button.

Was this answer helpful?

43 Comments:

Smacking the dash and steering wheel worked for me as well

Apr 30, 2019 by robertashmead2

Son of a ##&&%, my cruise wasnt working, so i just smacked dash and steering wheel. Sure as $@$* it started working again lol

Feb 15, 2020 by winetoursbyshane

Smacking the dash and wheel worked for us too! Thanks!

Jun 10, 2020 by Valarie Jolly

Holy s@$&! Smacking the steering wheel worked for me too! I had to try it after reading the comments

Jun 26, 2020 by jessica

Holy crap!! Dash & wheel smack on my 2016 just worked for me, too!!!!! I don’t know if I love this or am really upset by it...

Jul 4, 2020 by landmama

Show 38 more comments

Barry Wilhelm @barrygood1956

I have a 2012 Dodge Charger. The cruise control on off button sticks or doesn't make contact to turn on. I have found that if you whack the steering wheel hard on the back side of the module a few times it will most likely start working again. I know this isn't ideal and the module needs replaced but it does work until you can replace it.

27 Comments:

We are on a long road trip to florida and the cruise quit. Started reading every post about it and found this one. Smacked the side of the steering wheel and I’ll be hanged if it dodnt turn back on.

Jun 6, 2018 by Jeremy Moremen

This just happened to me and it worked! Seriously!! Jeremy... did you do anything long term?

Jun 20, 2018 by aawest47

It worked for me too!

Jul 1, 2018 by Alexis Wallace

Unbelievable I'm driving down the freeway hit the back of my steering wheel and it works

Sep 12, 2018 by Shane John

10/10. Worked in Canada too. Thanks Barry. You’re a genius.

Sep 19, 2018 by Mary Koop

Show 22 more comments

Gary @gskuc

Posted: Sep 20, 2018

I have a 2014 T&C. I made a fist and smacked the side of the steering wheel (where the cruise control cluster of buttons is mounted) firmly 2x. I did not hit the buttons themselves or their housing directly. Result? Cruise icon lights up in the dash and cruise function works!

Omg! It totally works!

May 3, 2023 by nicnac242

cortec @cortec

Posted: Mar 2, 2019

My wife has a 2012 T & C and turning ON the cruise was intermittent at best. I am an electronics tech, and decided to try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in the air gap around the ON/OFF switch in the steering wheel controls before going to the next level and replacing the switch. After applying the contact cleaner, I then dried it at the same point with a can of compressed air (computer keyboard cleaner). No more issues, cruise switch works every time now.

8 Comments:

Omg it worked for me too. 2012 grand caravan crew. Up here in Canada.

Sep 13, 2019 by tommy.an

I mean hitting the steering column and steering wheel.

I have a 2012 crysler 200 cruise works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't what can I do

Jun 2, 2020 by Frances Payne

So I thought all the comments above were a joke but.....it actually worked

Jul 5, 2020 by magpye

2015 Town & Country. No cruise, read the smack solution. Bam bam, works! Thanks!

Aug 3, 2020 by jgbaltz

Show 3 more comments

Michael Pippin @how2fixedu

Is the Check Engine light on? Alot of newer cars will disable the cruise control when the check engine light is on .

Amanda Villeda @avilleda27

Posted: Jul 6, 2021

That's crazy!!! I just tried this and it worked!!! I've been without cruise control for a few weeks. Amazing!!!

Phil Racicot @philracicot

Posted: May 31, 2021

I removed the switch, opened it and cleaned the tiny connectors that were corroded where they touch the female connector from the wiring. The cruise control worked ever since…

Sep 21, 2021 by Phil Racicot

Jim Kennedy @jimkennedy48322

Posted: Jul 23, 2022

I just worked on replacing brakes then my cruise control would not work. Thought it was a speed sensor but I have no warning lights on. Read these comments and I hit the steering wheel to see if that would fix it. Like magic it works now.

cheryl madden @cherylmadden

Posted: Oct 5, 2022

Holy Crap!! I googled this…My 2014 T&C Chrysler, cruise overnight Stopped working. Saw this, tried it, And It did work 🤗

Alexandria Burdick @alexandria48514

Posted: Jun 18, 2023

Just smacked it after driving four hours . WORKED WTF!!

Add your answer

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Cruise Control not Working (Diagnosis and Troubleshooting)

What makes cruise control not work.

Bad brake pedal/light switch — This means communication between you, cruise control and the car is interrupted, and you can’t have immediate manual control of the car.

Bad fuse — Fuses blow to protect the electrical system. Cruise control fuses will do the same, to protect the system and circuits in your car the fuse will break and then need repairing.

Failing speed sensor — Speed sensors are important in cruise control because your car needs to remain at the same speed consistently. Broken speed sensors will affect more than cruise control and need to be serviced urgently

Bad actuator vacuum, hose, or cable –The actuator vacuum is what connects and activates the throttle control. The fault may be with the hoses in the vacuum actuator or the cable linking the system together.

Symptoms of bad cruise control switch

• Symptom 1 — brake pedal does not disengage cruise control

There’s a switch fixed to the bases of the brake pedal and if cruise control does not deactivate when braking then it’s a sign that this switch is faulty.

• Symptom 2 — Hissing noises are heard from under the dash.

The cruise control switch is a vacuum system and for some vehicles, it is mounted near the brake pedals under the dash. If you can hear hissing, it could indicate that the switch or one of the switch’s vacuum hoses is broken.

• Symptom 3 — The cruise control switch/button itself does not work

When trying to turn on the function or while cruising it turns off, this is an indicator of a faulty switch and can be related to wiring issues or the above (1-2) symptoms

• Symptom 4 — A blown fuse

A blown fuse could be a simple error and fix. The switch circuit or fuse may just need to be replaced for the problem to resolve.

Possible Cruise control failure Scenarios

1. Cruise control not working after battery change

• Possible cause — This differs from vehicle to vehicle and among brands. Some drivers’ cruise control malfunctions after jump-starting their battery, and this is because the battery is still discharged. Newer cars have many electronic systems, and most are powered by the battery. So, if the battery is discharged or low-powered, the electrical cruise control system can be affected.
• Solution — Putting your battery on a trickle charger (2-5 amp) for 12 hours or driving on cruise for a couple of hours may resolve this issue.

2. Cruise control turns off while driving

• Possible cause — Damaged speed sensor or actuator, these two could be internally malfunctioning and causing the cruise control to disengage without input from you.
• Solution — Have a technician or mechanic run a diagnostic with the speed sensor and check the actuator hoses and cables.

3. Cruise control works intermittently

• Possible cause — this may relate to the brake pedal switch. If cruise control is intermittently disengaging, it could be a wiring issue with the switch.
• Solution — Have the brake pedal to cruise control switch investigated by a mechanic or technician and determine if there is a faulty wire to blame. You may need to have the switch or some of its parts replaced.

4. Cruise control turns on but will not set

• Possible cause — The brake pedal switch may be the issue. The brake pedal deactivates cruise control and if it is stuck in the open position, it may cause the cruise control to not engage or set properly.
• Solution — Ask your mechanic or technician to check for this issue specifically in their diagnostic and service.

5. Cruise control turns on by itself

• Possible cause — There may be a failure with the Electronic Control Module (ECM) which manages the actuators or Electronic Control Unit (ECU) which controls the speed in your cruise control
• Solution — You could attempt to reprogram the ECU and ECM if you have the computer tools, otherwise take it into a trusted mechanic or technician.

There are many helpful forums run by mechanics and amateurs:  These are always great for solving those specific problems you might experience.

When CC does not set: https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/34795/cruise-control-will-not-turn-on-cannot-be-enabled-nor-set

When CC is faulty after battery change: https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/help-cruise-control-not-working-after-dead-battery.4464553/

For cruise control and other general repairs, watch this channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf2f4MeZzSksVMe1z3Lp3hw

Can cruise control cause check engine light?

When the check engine light or MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is on, the cruise control light may blink to signal that cruise control has been disabled. This is a safety control as the vehicle is programmed to not go on ‘autopilot’ should the engine or mechanical issue relate to the cruise control systems. If the error or fault is with the cruise control systems, then the MIL may be lit for that as well.

How much does it cost to fix cruise control malfunctions?

• For switch repair (parts and labour) it’s estimated at $125- $350
• For fuse repairs, it could be up to $10 to buy the fuse and replace it yourself in a few minutes — there are many helpful YouTube tutorials on simple car repairs like this one.
• For actuator repairs, some cost more than $700
• Therefore, it’s important to know WHAT the issue is to get an idea of HOW MUCH it will cost you.

Does cruise control malfunction trigger the check engine light?

The function of a check engine light or MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is to communicate engine or mechanical failures in your vehicle to prevent an accident on the road. The MIL can be lit for simple reasons like the gas cap is loose. Should your CC system fail or run incorrectly, the MIL could light up. Often when there are other failures or engine faults, the MIL will light and the cruise control with a flicker to signal it has been disabled for safety reasons. Once the cruise control or other issues are fixed, all the lights should go back to being turned off.

Author: Dave Johnston

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Cruise Control Not Working? 9 Potential Causes

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Cruise control reduces stress and fatigue on long drives, but if the system isn't working properly, it can become dangerous. If your vehicle's cruise control isn't working, one of the following nine issues may be the root cause.

How Cruise Control Works

Cruise control is a system to maintain vehicle speed without direct driver input. When you want to engage cruise control, you first turn the system “On” with a button or switch. However, this alone does not start the cruise control. When you “Set” cruising speed, the cruise control module (CCM) records the current speed, then takes control of the throttle body to maintain vehicle speed. When vehicle speed increases or decreases (due to wind or hills, for example), the CCM decreases or increases throttle body opening accordingly.

By modulating engine speed, the CCM can maintain your desired cruising speed on the highway. You can increase or decrease cruise speed by tapping a button or lever, and you can cancel cruise control by hitting the “Cancel” or “Off” buttons or stepping on the brake.

Throttle body control has changed over the years. Early systems used a vacuum motor and cable, but these eventually changed over to electric motors. Most recently, with the development of drive-by-wire or electronic throttle control systems (ETCS), cruise control is built into the engine control module (ECM), which controls the throttle body electronically.

Basic cruise control systems still require the driver to pay attention to changing road and traffic conditions. Adaptive cruise control systems, sometimes called "smart" cruise, use radar or laser detection to maintain safe distances from vehicles ahead. Some adaptive cruise control systems merely reduce engine speed to maintain distance, but some of the newest adaptive cruise control systems can also engage the brakes to slow or stop the vehicle. Still, even with adaptive cruise control, it's important that drivers never take their eyes off the road.

Why Is My Cruise Control Not Working?

There are a few basic ways that cruise control can fail, depending on how the system is designed. You may not be able to do much about ETCS cruise control systems, but there are a few things you can check:

Brake Light Switch – As cruise control is automatically cancelled by depressing the brake, some vehicles may disengage cruise control if it cannot detect the brake light switch.

Brake Lights – In some systems, cruise control is disabled when a brake light is blown. Aftermarket lighting, such as LED brake light conversion, might trick the CCM into thinking a brake light is blown, as LED bulbs draw less current than incandescent bulbs.

Fuses and Relays – On some vehicles, fuses and relays are used to protect the cruise control actuator circuit . If the fuse is blown or the relay is faulty, the system won’t work.

Spiral Cable – Many vehicles mount the cruise control switch on the steering wheel. A faulty spiral cable may have an open circuit, preventing the switch from contacting the CCM.

Control Switch – If the internal contacts wear out, the cruise control switch may not be able to contact the CCM. This might disable cruise control completely, or it might not react to the cancel or accelerate functions.

Check Engine Light – On some modern vehicles, particularly those equipped with ETCS, cruise control may be disabled if there is an engine or transmission problem .

Vacuum Leak – Some older vehicles used vacuum actuators to control the throttle body during cruise control operation. If there is a leak, such as a cracked hose or tube, the system won’t work. A vacuum leak might cause the engine to idler higher or set a fuel trim code.

Vehicle Speed Sensor – There are usually multiple vehicle speed sensors (VSS) on any given vehicle. The CCM might use a VSS feed from the ECM, instrument cluster, or transmission. If that signal is lost, the CCM can’t detect vehicle speed, disabling cruise control.

Electrical Problems – As most cruise control systems use electrical or electronic components, any diagnosis should include a thorough check of source voltage, wiring harnesses, and connectors. Anything loose or broken could disable the system entirely.

If your cruise control isn’t working properly, avoid using it until it is repaired. A faulty cruise control system may not cancel on demand, which will create a safety hazard for you and those around you. After assessing your cruise control yourself, take your vehicle to a trusted mechanic for a check or a couple diagnosis and repair.

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Home » Troubleshooting » Chevy Cruze ABS light is on – causes and how to reset

Chevy Cruze ABS light is on – causes and how to reset

The ABS, short for anti-lock braking system, is a safety feature in Chevy Cruze which prevents the wheels from locking up during braking. This makes it possible to maintain steerability and directional stability even when braking hard, allowing the driver to avoid obstacles. If the ABS light illuminates in the instrument cluster of Cruze, it means the anti-lock braking system has malfunctioned.

The ABS light comes on in the dashboard of Chevy Cruze when one or more of the wheel speed sensors have malfunctioned, brake fluid is too low, the fuse is blown or the relay is bad, tire pressure is low, or if the ABS module has developed a defect.

1. Bad wheel speed sensor

Chevy Cruze has an ABS sensor at each wheel hub which measures the speed of the respective wheel and transmits the information to the ABS control unit. If a sensor develops a defect and sends inaccurate or no speed information, the ABS light illuminates in the instrument cluster.

Bad wheel speed sensor is one of the leading causes of ABS warning light in Cruze, as they are exposed to harsh conditions due to their close proximity to the wheels.

How to check ABS sensor

It isn’t usually possible to identify the faulty ABS sensor in Cruze by physical inspection. The only most reliable method of diagnosing an ABS speed sensor is by connecting an OBDII scanner to your vehicle and reading out the error codes. The error code also makes it easy to determine which sensor is affected. The faulty sensor must be replaced to resolve the issue. Note: Make sure the code reader you are using can read your vehicle’s ABS codes. Not all readers can.

Damaged speed sensor wire, or bad connector

It is possible the sensor is functioning properly in your Cruze, but the signal is interrupted due to damaged wire or corroded connector. Before replacing the sensor, the wiring and connectors of the affected sensor should be physically inspected for any signs of damage or corrosion.

Recommended video

2. Low brake fluid

Excessively low level of brake fluid can trigger ABS light in Cruze. Check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir, the level should sit near the high marking on the reservoir.

Causes of low brake fluid

In case the brake fluid level is low, topping it off should turn off the ABS warning light in Cruze. But it is important to further investigate the reason for low brake fluid level. The three common causes of low brake fluid are worn brake pads, worn rotors, and a leak in the system. Check the condition of the brake pads and rotors, also see if there is any sign of fluid leak under your vehicle and on the wheel hubs.

3. Bad ABS pump or control module

The ABS pump, also called Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU), consists of an electronic and a mechanical-hydraulic part. When you brake hard at high speed and the wheels lock, the hydraulic part of the unit actuates the valves to reduce hydraulic pressure to the brake at the affected wheels. A malfunction in the ABS pump can cause the ABS light to illuminate in Cruze, and a fault code is stored in the memory. Connect a diagnostic device to your vehicle to read the code.

4. Low tire pressure

Low tire pressure in one of the wheels of Chevy Cruze can cause the ABS light to turn on. The diameter of the wheel is reduced when its tire is underinflated, this causes the wheel to spin faster than other wheels in the vehicle. When the speed difference between the wheels is detected by the control module, an ABS fault code is triggered for the speed sensor of the wheel with low tire pressure.

TPMS warning light

5. Blown fuse or bad relay

A blown fuse or bad relay can cause the ABS system to stop functioning. Check the owners manual of your vehicle or the fuse box cover to find the exact location of the fuse for the ABS system. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new one with the specified amp rating.

Is it safe to drive with ABS light on?

When the ABS light illuminates in the instrument cluster of Cruze, the ABS system is disabled and the braking system acts like older traditional braking system. The braking pressure from the master cylinder to the brake calipers is undiminished. What this means is, you can brake normally with moderate braking in dry conditions. But in case of wet or snowy conditions, or when braking hard, you may lose steerability of the vehicle. Therefore, when the ABS light is on, drive with extreme caution and fix the issue as soon as possible.

How to reset the ABS light

Fix the issue.

Resetting the ABS light in Cruze without solving the underlying issue may not help, as the warning light will turn back on when the system again detects the fault. The light should disappear automatically after fixing the issue. If it doesn’t turn off immediately, driving your vehicle for a few miles should help.

OBDII scanner method

The proper way to reset the ABS light in Cruze is by clearing the codes with an OBDII scanner. If the warning light doesn’t turn off automatically after fixing the issue, you will have to do it manually by connecting a diagnostic device and then deleting all the error codes related to the ABS system.

Disconnect the battery

If you don’t have a diagnostic device, it may be possible to reset the ABS light in Cruze by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery first, then from the positive terminal. With the battery disconnected, press the horn button a few times and turn on the headlights to drain out all the residual electricity from the system. After about 15 minutes, reconnect the battery in reverse order: positive cable first, then negative cable.

Use OBD2 scanner for diagnosis

Since Chevy Cruze is equipped with on-board diagnostics (OBD), a fault diagnosis can provide initial indications of where the malfunction is located.

To begin troubleshooting, you must first connect the diagnostic tool to your Cruze. The OBDII connector is usually located under the dashboard. With the tool connected, turn on the ignition. Most diagnostic devices then ask for some information about the vehicle. It is important that you enter this 100% correctly, otherwise the result of the search may be inaccurate. In addition to the vehicle make, model, and engine type, you usually also have to type in the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). Since some OBD codes are manufacturer-specific, the scanner will be able to give you more accurate information if you enter more details about your Cruze.

There are many reasons why the ABS light is turned on in your Chevy Cruze. To pinpoint the cause, you must use a diagnostic tool and scan for codes. For example, if one of the speed sensors has failed, the scanner will tell you exactly which wheel sensor is causing the problem.

In any case, it is advisable for laypersons to visit a workshop. A professional mechanic can swiftly diagnose the ABS issue for you.

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2013 grand caravan Abs and traction control lights on and cruise control stopped working

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I noticed that my ABS trouble light is on, the traction controlindicator lamp is now on, and the cruise control stopped working, all at the same time. Attempts to toggle traction control on or off yield no change the the traction control lamp which is lit. The other controls on the steering column work, including radio controls back side of the wheel, the step button rolls thru the outside Air temp, mpg, trip and odometer readings, but the cruise control indicator lamp does not activate by using the cruise on/off button, and accel/decel don't do anything to the throttle nor does the set button lock the vehicle speed. The airbag indicate is off.  

There is a fault in one of the systems, probably the ABS, that must be addressed. You really need to have a dealer or another shop with a scanner sophisticated enough to access the ABS and other systems to diagnose the problem.  

Welcome to Allpar. I'll wager that all 3 are related to the same issue. Some Auto Parts stores have a customer-use scan tool that can read ABS codes.  

Same problem with 2009 was ABS control module. $200 for the part and $100 to program. And that thing is d#mn near impossible to reach and replace on the 09 without knowing the trick to get to it. FSM didn't tell me how to do it.  

Get the codes first. It can be anything from a simple steering angle sensor recalibration to a module (and many things in between).  

When I had my ABS and brake lights come on last Fall, I bought this code reader. Paid for itself with one use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  

No traction control = no cruise.  

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• Dealer Service, Maintenance, and Warranty Issues

[SOLVED] Suddenly, WARNING LIGHTS on all at once and no paddle shifting

• Add to quote
• CHECK ENGINE
• AT OIL TEMP (flashing; not always on)
• CRUISE CONTROL (clock-like symbol is flashing)
• HILL ASSIST ( i.e. warning light lit up indicating the Hill Assist is actually OFF)
• VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control)

To follow up... still have not been driving my car except short distances, but now need to repair (or correct) soon.. Will be calling SOA shortly. Just wondering if anybody in this forum, thinks the dealer could've screwed up the brake lamp recall (or, outside chance, not done anything at all)?.. resulting in my current technical issue? I have recently read a few negative reviews about the dealership that performed the recalls on my Crosstrek.  

There has been many reports of the brake light switch not being adjusted properly causing issues.I haven't heard of that causing the paddle shifters to stop working.However,most people never use them so maybe they just didn't notice they weren't working.  

Marty1 said: You could have a bad battery that isn't taking a full charge. I haven't experienced it with a Crosstrek, but I know the newer Honda CRV's bring up all sorts of unrelated alarms when the battery starts to fail. The fact that the engine still starts does NOT mean the battery is ok. Not driving much would exacerbate the situation. A flooded cell vehicle battery at rest should never read below 12.2 volts, as the plates in the cells will start to sulfate prematurely. Check your battery voltage with a digital voltmeter with the engine shut off and no load on the battery. Here's a chart that gives a guide to battery condition: Click to expand...

I had a loose air hose and my cruise control quit working  

Thanks for the suggestions. We determined our battery to be in good shape. Our local mechanic determined codes to be P700 (generic transmission control - MIL request); C1431 (TCM Fault); C1422 (VDC Interruption for "Engine Convenience"); **MOST RELEVENT code: C2763 (Lock Up Duty Solenoid Circuit High; other solenoid issues). Indications: valve body and/or TCM (transmission control module) issue. He said dealer needed to make repairs or "flash"/reset codes.) All the aforementioned lights and glitches were happening because Crosstrek went into "safe mode" to coerce us to get into the dealership/repair shop pronto, although a flashing CEL light would be even more serious - ours was not flashing. Called SOA and said I was concerned whether these codes indicated a common problem resulting from the two recalls - brake light switch, and valve springs replacement. SOA offered $400 towing cost into Subaru dealership to figure out- 2 hours away. Called dealership for appointment and also found out SOA would likely balk at repair cost because CVT-related repairs (extended warranty) would have to be within 100,000+ miles or happen by 2023. Our XV has over 122K. The Subaru dealership said if codes were accurate, valve body needed replacement (nothing to do with recalls) and would cost about $1300, including $175 diagnosis. They would keep car two to three days and loaner would cost $30/day. I had planned to request from SOA to cover loaner costs. Also, dealership said manager would request repair cost coverage, but doubtful SOA would cover. We decided to research a couple of import mechanics closer to us. Found a mechanic/NAPA repair shop a half hour away who diagnosed same codes for $150. Then, repaired and replaced broken valve body and related solenoids with genuine Subaru kit ordered from aforementioned Subaru dealership... A four-part system as I understand it. NAPA two-year repair warranty includes official Subaru warranty for their valve kit. The NAPA shop felt this issue is common Subaru problem because the dealership had at least four kits in stock. Subaru valve kit about $800+ plus other parts. B illed $1118 plus $150 diagnosis = total about $1270. So, no big savings versus dealership, but time saved from dealing with a towing service, a loaner and getting back a forth for repair two hours away. Also, not sure if SOA would've helped out with loaner or repair/part cost, so decided to take care of it out of pocket, locally...Ouch. Time and (in)convenience is money. We also took calculated risk to drive, not tow, 35 miles to the repair shop. Everything works great now and back to normal. Hope this helps some of you. If your car has less than 100,000 miles and has these issues, get it fixed by 2023 and there's some chance SOA will pay for any CVT-issue repair.  

Hi when you say have it repaired by 2023, doe it mean CVT repairs will still be covered even if you are out of standard warranty coverage>?... cheers  

I know this post is dated but I hope my situation can help someone. I have a 2014 Forester with 133,000 miles. Recently got the Christmas Tree dash of AT oil temp, hill assist, ABS, traction control. Intermittent at first then consistent. When lights were on and driving at any speed rpms would drop to 1000 when foot was removed from the gas pedal. Other than that drove fine, car has always been jerky since we got it a year ago. After plugging in my Autel scanner 1 code was in the transmission for the solenoid Value high. I knew it was the valve body after some quick research. I found that Subaru extended warranty to 100k. Went to my local dealer for official diagnosis and documentation. They said of course it needs a valve body $1500 plus labor plus new fluid $250. I responded “so Subaru won’t do anything with this?” Dealer “no, and your way over 100k so there’s nothing I can do but you can contact. Subaru corporate and see if they will help you.” They were completing the rear spring recall too, so 20 minutes later the service advisor came out and said she had some news. She said she had her manger contact their regional rep at Subaru of America and he agreed to to cover the repair in full because it’s such a common problem. The only stipulation was he requested a fluid change that I would have to cover because it’s considered a normal maintenance item. In the end I paid $262 out the door with new fluid, valve body, rear springs. I hope this information helps someone, thx. If anyone is curious I Live in RI and the dealer was Balise Subaru  

@Joepi Thanks for the great story about SOA support! Recently, I also reconnected with Subaru of America after my last post describing how we finally resolved our Valve Body situation. Months afterwards, I thought it wouldn't hurt to follow through and ask the "SOA Advocate" that had been communicating with me earlier, if SOA would be open to contributing financially to the Valve Body repair even though I did not go to an official Subaru dealership and even though our Crosstrek was sitting at over 100,000 miles; also, given the NAPA mechanic had ordered the official Subaru part/valve body; plus, ultimately I saved SOA the $400 they had offered to cover towing to the dealership a couple hundred miles away. Long story short (and a great ender!): SOA, through my assigned "advocate", agreed to reimburse me $750.00 toward the valve body repair*... basically covering the cost of the part. The advocate said she wanted to offer support for the experience we had to endure and hopefully contribute to ongoing loyalty to the Subaru brand. * We were asked to submit photocopies of our repair estimate and invoice from the mechanic; also, I voluntarily included a photo of the barcode from the new Subaru Valve Body box, which contained the old faulty part, which we had requested to be returned. Indeed, we will be looking into buying a Forester in the future. Love... Is What Makes A Subaru!  

It seems they have been at least giving half off or 1k off very often on these valve body replacements they seem to be the most common issue with the cvt. Always call Subaru of America and try to get some money back towards it, they seem to usually offer some money.  

I've talked to Subaru Canada about this. Most service bulletins issued by SOA apply in Canada, but not necessarily all. Ask your dealer about the TSB in question and they can tell you.  

Marty1 said: I've talked to Subaru Canada about this. Most service bulletins issued by SOA apply in Canada, but not necessarily all. Ask your dealer about the TSB in question and they can tell you. Click to expand...

W0w so any advice on what to start to say to SOA when i call ..?? Ive just replaced my VVT’s x 4 and now getting all warning lights on - hill assist - engine light - ect ect .. 168k 2015 xv limited with eyesight .. had brake light switch replaced via recall at dealer last year or two ago.. acting like same issue again. so after replacing vvt - codes indicate needing to re program my ecm or replace .. so called local subaru shop and asked and they claim i need to Replace it and have something else done to synch up or wont start either .. anticipating cost is billing me as they not called back yet.. also im thinking i may need new seals as oil getting into my dang overflow tank .. wtf .? uhgg .. what else ..hmm codes showing are p0016 p0024 p00B p00D p0014 not always the same tho some are persistent.. but all seem to relate to vvt saying to repair/replace vvt - which i already have done .. so i hoped flashing ecm but now apparently not .:/ as now getting cam codes — About to just dump this car ..:/ don’t want to But also not going to get into this deep when i can use that $ for down on a new ram truck or wrangler or something .. im stuck .  

Sorry to hear of the frustrating end to your fun day but stoked that it all worked out for you. And pleased to hear of your experience with Gold Rush Auburn--that's my dealer and I've wondered how ther service department would be once I have need.  

Hey Mate, after experiencing very similar problems to you. (ABS, hill assist, traction control, at oil temp, emmission and cruise control, the car jumping when accelerating over 20kms) I received advice from the mechanic, he scanned the car with a little system checker and it came up with a bunch of codes, I have been told it is quite possibly the transmission and that it needs to be taken to the dealership so they can work it out. My quote is more than the car is worth, I am not financially ready for this nor do I want to sell the car as I am currently paying it off. I am considering taking my car to another mechanic for a second opinion, as I feel the transmission may not be the answer. Please help!!  

Wife's car had all the same warning lights except engine light. Hooked it to a code reader and it threw a 1431 code. After much research seemed to point to either valve body $2k replacement cost) or brake light pressure switch ($35 part). Decided to try the pressure switch first before taking it to a mechanic, although confirmed brake lights were working. 1/2 hr to install but all warning lights were still on. No issues with car other than paddle shifters and cruuse control not working. Planning on taking it to a mechanic on mon but needed to move my daughter over the weekend 60 miles away. On way home i heard a beep and warning lights went out! I remember reading somewhere that in sometimes it takes a while for warning lights to clear so glad i did not take to a mechanic as it would likely have cost 2k for a valve bidy replacement. Saw many articles about 1st replacing brake pressure switch, which did not make the light go out, so assumed it was valve body and had mechanic replace. Wondering if it just needed some miles to clear. Hope this helps others not make this mistake.  

I'm happy this thread exists, it's been immensely helpful so thank you. I've been pulling my hair out over this exact same issue with my 2013 XV Crosstrek (120k miles). I thought the issue originally had to do with my battery (which died, had to jumpstart, then recharged) and/or hot weather when the warning lights fired off. I replaced the old battery which I thought fixed the problem until about 5 or 10 miles of driving until the warning lights were set off again. I finally pulled the exact same codes with an OBD Scanner P0700 & P2764. I have yet to get it officially diagnosed, but I'm pretty confident it's a solenoid issue and I'm going to need a valve body replacement.  

Joepj said: I know this post is dated but I hope my situation can help someone. I have a 2014 Forester with 133,000 miles. Recently got the Christmas Tree dash of AT oil temp, hill assist, ABS, traction control. Intermittent at first then consistent. When lights were on and driving at any speed rpms would drop to 1000 when foot was removed from the gas pedal. Other than that drove fine, car has always been jerky since we got it a year ago. After plugging in my Autel scanner 1 code was in the transmission for the solenoid Value high. I knew it was the valve body after some quick research. I found that Subaru extended warranty to 100k. Went to my local dealer for official diagnosis and documentation. They said of course it needs a valve body $1500 plus labor plus new fluid $250. I responded “so Subaru won’t do anything with this?” Dealer “no, and your way over 100k so there’s nothing I can do but you can contact. Subaru corporate and see if they will help you.” They were completing the rear spring recall too, so 20 minutes later the service advisor came out and said she had some news. She said she had her manger contact their regional rep at Subaru of America and he agreed to to cover the repair in full because it’s such a common problem. The only stipulation was he requested a fluid change that I would have to cover because it’s considered a normal maintenance item. In the end I paid $262 out the door with new fluid, valve body, rear springs. I hope this information helps someone, thx. If anyone is curious I Live in RI and the dealer was Balise Subaru Click to expand...

Just had this issue come up, and getting to this thread fast helped me and saved a ton of time. I have a 2013, under 100k. All lights came on, with the flashing oil temp light. Got towed to a dealership, and was able to point them in this direction from the start. Confirmed the issues, and confirmed covered up to 100k. Thanks to anyone who posted here before.  

It happened to our 2016 Crosstrek at 59500 miles. Dealer repaired it under warranty. It just happened again at 146000 miles. I’m not happy.  

Since this thread was so helpful to me and it helped me avoid a trip to the mechanic which i guarantee would have ended with a bill no less than 1k i am sharing my experience. I am driving a 2014 subaru impreza and suddenly my “at oil temp” light starting blinking and the lights came on for my uphill and abs its over 100k miles and i know its a matter of time before the transmission starts failing but i looked at some of the solutions on this thread and found that sometimes a faulty battery can set off these signals and i found white powder built up on one of the pos/neg terminals. i unscrewed it, tapped the white cake build up off and rescrewed it and since then the lights have not returned. tomorrow im buying a new battery and it should run for at least a little while longer. Thank you everyone for your replies and posts, you’re amazing! Except for the people who just “took it to the dealership and it was fixed,” very unhelpful. By!  

Has anyone tried replacing your ground wires, battery cables, etc.??  

Has anyone connected this issue to the faulty TCM? 2013 Crosstrek here. Took it in for Key/stuck in ignition issue (98,000 mi) and told them to check for issues with the TCM because there was an intermittent clicking sound coming from under shifter when approaching stop lights. They had my car for weeks because they only had one technician that could pull the engine to fix the key issue. I get it back and was so glad they fixed a list of issues. A year later- Dash lights up. I take it in-drivability fine except for the burnt trans oil smell. Same guy behind counter. He never noted the problem and I can't expect him to remember. Of course, now a code pops up indicating TCM. Embarrassed to say- my Grand Cherokee made the same sound and they replaced it without hesitation..  

I have been having issues with my 2014 Forester since Nov 2022 where all the lights come on - ABS, engine light, uphill assist, cruise control. My local dealership has been fixing a plethora of issues every time. I first replaced the A/F sensor, had the CVT trans removed, cleaned, dried, resealed, and a decarb, fuel-injection kit redone for a whopping $2217. Then I went back in in Feb 2023 for the same set of lights and that time, they installed a new exhaust manifold and replaced the gaskets for another $865. The array of lights came on again in May 2023 and that time they only updated my software (it apparently should have been done but hadn't the previous time I was in). No charge for that one. The lights came on again the following month (June 2023) and that time they adjusted my break lamp switch saying it wasn't always making contact. The lights came on again in Oct 2023 and it was recommended that I replace the mass air flow sensor (replaced it myself). Went back in this month for the same lights (plus the At Oil Temp light) and was told to replaced both O2 sensors, wheel bearings and resealed axels (because apparently those mechanical issues could also cause the engine lights to come on) and paid $2400. Less than 75 miles after picking up my car, the same set of lights came on (this time the at oil temp light did not come on, just the uphill assist, abs, engine, etc), my car did a weird thing where the whole dash flashed and then it shut off, took it in immediately, and was told that the transmission valve body needed to be replaced. I ordered the part and got it done (another $2000), called SOA but they said I was too far out of the 10 year, 100k warranty to help me. My car is at 122k miles. I picked up my car yesterday and it's shuddering a bit. This morning the dashboard flashed at me and it felt like it was going to shut off (I was coming to a stop at a stop sign). What are your recommendations?  

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cruise control not working

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I went through a real bad mudhole and now the ESP light, traction loss light and ABS light are all stuck on. And my cruise control isn't working anymore. IV got a real long drive next weekend and want cruise control lol... IV cleaned all mud put from around sensors for ABS and still nothing. Any ideas??  

you might try honking the horn for the cruise control, there are some other threads on here about steering wheel controls not working due to a spring in the steering column and that honking the horn will sometimes fix those issues. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/esp-bas-warning-light-2010-jk-4dr-136016.html http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/steering-wheel-radio-controls-133206.html  

I don't have all the stearing wheel controls. . 07 jk sport. Just the cruise control. But I tried the horn and it didn't help o_0 any other ideas?  

Start it up turn all the way to the left. Then turn all the way to the right. Turn of the engine. Restart it and drive for about 30 seconds and you traction light will go off. Maybe after you reset the lights the cruise will work.  

I barely got out of the parking spot!! Thanks, this has been bugging the crap outta me!!:dance:  

If you have a bad wheel sensor than your cruse will not work and the lights will stay on.  

tribangle said: +2 Just got back from the dealer for a wheel sensor issue. Lights were on an no cruise control. Bad wire was replaced, and now everything is fine. Click to expand...

MrSig said: If you have a bad wheel sensor than your cruse will not work and the lights will stay on. Click to expand...

If your clock spring is bad, you wont have cruise and all your lights will stay on. The clock spring now has an extended warranty so you might still be covered  

How much does a sensor wire run? And I will probable be out of warrenty nearing 70000ks now  

For those of you that on 97-2023 CJ and the cruise does not work but the cruise light comes on the problem is in the set switch. After awhile the small metal contact will slide out of the holder. These switches are no longer made and a lot of the switches do this. If you are handy take the sw out and you will see on the bottom side is the rocker pivot ( small white pivot), gently press one in and remove the sw cover, then you will see a rubber cover, remove carefully because the contacts are under that. One one them or several may fall out. put the contacts back in place and cover and recheck for continuity when pressed. Carefully replace sw cover and reinstall and test drive. If you order one on ebay make sure it works. I was skunked on one when I decided to fix my own.  

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