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Normandy Battle Tours

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Professionally guided battlefield tours for small groups

2004-2024 : 20 YEARS OF PROVIDING THE HIGHEST QUALITY BATTLEFIELD TOURS OF NORMANDY

As we enter our third decade, award winning normandy battle tours is well and truly established amongst the most respected companies offering professionally guided tours of the d-day battlefields. we rank alongside the very highest rated tour operators listed on tripadvisor and we are the longest continously listed company to be recommended by the rick steves travel guide., having lived and worked in normandy since 2004, your guide, an academically trained historian and best selling author, has experienced the priviledge and honour of having met and toured the battlefields of normandy with hundreds of veterans of the campaign which raged in this region in 1944. with the intimate knowledge of the ground which only a resident of the region could possess, our aim is to share with you the stories of those veterans which have been personally inherited by your guide through such cherished encounters., whether you are following in the footsteps of a family member who fought in normandy in 1944, or just curious to learn more about one of the most incredible military feats mankind has ever set themselves to, normandy battle tours is here to gaurantee you achieve the ultimate experience from your visit to our remarkable region. .

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If you're ever going to take a private tour, this is the place in France to do so. No matter how good my description is in my guidebook, there's no way I can do justice to it like a guide like Stuart Robertson does. Steve Smith (author of the Rick Steves France guidebook)

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Sipping coffee & chasing dreams, a self-guided tour of historic d-day sites in normandy.

Visiting the historic D-Day sites is an unforgettable way to spend the day.  It is one of those bucket list trips that leave you better for having made them. June 6, 1944, is one of the most historic dates in world history. The victory achieved on D-Day changed the course of the world.  

The freedoms I have today are in large part due to the battles fought on the shores of Normandy. If you have an opportunity to travel to France, take some time to visit the D-Day sites in Normandy. You’ll never forget it.

In this post, I share my one-day self-guided itinerary to some of the D-Day sites in Normandy, France.  You’ll get a chance to learn about my experience and also see how easy it is to plan your own trip to this historic region. Although I would have preferred a minimum of 2 days for my visit, even with only one day to see the D-Day sites, you can cover a lot of ground and still have an unforgettable trip.

Overview of Our One-Day Itinerary to D-Day Sites in Normandy

Click on the map below to view trip details and driving directions for this route., what we saw on our one day self-guided tour:.

• Church of Sainte-Mere-Eglise
• Airborne Museum at Sainte-Mere-Eglise
• La Cambe German war cemetery
• Pointe du Hoc
• National Guard Association Monument at Omaha Beach
• Omaha Beach Memorial
• Lunch at D-Day House at Omaha Beach
• Normandy American Cemetery

Where We Started Our Road Trip

We took a direct train from Paris to Caen, where we’d booked our hotel and rental car.  In addition to spending one day seeing the D-Day sites, we also spent one day driving to Mont-Saint-Michel . For our one-day D-Day itinerary, we drove from our hotel in Caen to our first stop, the Airborne Museum in Sainte-Mere-Eglise. Then we worked our way back in the direction of Caen for the remainder of the itinerary.

Tip: You could easily make this trip in reverse, and depending on what time of year you go, you may want to.  We discovered during our visit here in October, that places open later and close earlier in the fall and winter.  

So in the case of our route, we arrived at the Airborne Museum, thinking it opened at 9:00 a.m. (according to Google) only to discover it did not open until 10:00. Thus, we could have started at the Normandy American Cemetery, which opened at 9:00 and closed at 5:00 and then saved the Airborne Museum for last, which closed at 6:00 p.m.  Live and learn!

Benefits of a Self-Guided Road Trip to See D-Day Sites

By driving yourself to the D-Day sites, you have more flexibility and choices in which places you see and how long you spend there. Driving in France was easy for me since they drive on the same side of the road as we do in the U.S. As long as you can drive a car with a manual transmission, it is pretty much the same as driving in the States. The road signs may look a little different, but all in all, it’s a very similar experience.

However, if you’re not comfortable with driving on your own in France, there are a lot of tour companies that will drive you around to the historic D-Day sites. You can take 12-hour day trips from Paris, or local tours starting at Caen and Bayeux. So decide on whichever option works best for you and your itinerary.

A Little Background About This Trip

My visit to Normandy, France, was a part of a 2 1/2 month backpacking trip I took with my friend through Europe.  As I planned our route and the “must-see” stops along the way, I knew that visiting Normandy, France, and the historic D-Day sites was a must for me.  Our visit to Normandy was during the final three weeks of our trip through Europe.  

Before arriving in Normandy, we toured the house where Anne Frank hid in the attic before being captured by the Nazis. We visited Berlin and walked over what was once Hitler’s underground bunker and wandered through the Memorial to the Murdered Jews.  Then we traveled to Krakow, Poland, where we took a day trip to the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps. Finally, we went to Normandy, France, and visited some of the historic D-Day sites.  

It was a journey through World War II history, starting with the atrocities that forced people into hiding and ultimately led to the death of millions of people. Our travels brought us full circle to Normandy, and the history surrounding D-Day, the battles leading up to it, and the battles fought afterward. 

Although the history surrounding D-Day was one of tragedy, it was also one of triumph and hope. I saw the bleakness of death at Auschwitz, which only made my visit to the D-Day sites all the more impactful. The price was high, the sacrifice great, but freedom demands we risk everything or end up with nothing. I am so grateful for those who gave their lives so I could live in freedom.

Site 1: Church of Sainte-Mere-Eglise

We started our day of sightseeing in the town of Sainte-Mère-Église. We arrived a little after 9 a.m. and found that the Airborne Museum didn’t open until 10 a.m. So we wandered over to the Church of Sainte-Mère-Église, where a mannequin of a paratrooper’s body hangs from the church steeple.

John M. Steele

We learned more about the paratrooper represented on the church steeple during our visit to the Airborne Museum. His name was John Steele, and he was a paratrooper with the 82nd Airborne Division. During the drop into  Sainte-Mère-Église,  one of the houses caught fire, which unfortunately illuminated the night sky, and thus the paratroopers dropping in. 

John Steele was hit in the foot on his way down and lost control of his parachute. His parachute caught on the church steeple. He hung there for around 2 hours, pretending to be dead before German soldiers came up and brought his body down. They took him as a prisoner, but three days later, he escaped and returned to his division. He survived WWII and returned home after the war was over. 

A beautiful stained glass window in the Church at Sainte-Mere-Eglise.

There is so much more to John Steele’s story and to the paratroopers that dropped that night. For any of you who have watched “The Longest Day,” you might remember seeing the scene of the paratroopers dropping in.

The real story is full of heroism, as one of his fellow troopers on the ground gave his life to save John’s.  The chaos was compounded by the house fire, which lit up the sky and made them glowing targets.

Go inside the church and take a look around. There is a beautiful stained glass window created in memory of the paratroopers that lost their lives here. There is also another one portraying the angel Michael surrounded by the symbols of the various Allied forces who fought to free  Sainte-Mère-Église.

Time Spent Here: (~ 30 minutes) Location: Church of Sainte-Mère-Église, Rue Koenig, 50480 Sainte-Mère-Église, France Commute Time to Next Site: ~ 1-minute walk across the parking lot.

Site 2: The Airborne Museum at Sainte-Mere-Eglise

The Airborne Museum  is a thoughtfully designed museum made up of multiple buildings as well as an outdoor area. At the ticket desk, you receive a tablet to carry with you as you make your way through the different areas.  The tablet provides additional information about the exhibits and includes interactive features, which if you have kids, they will especially enjoy this feature. For the most part, you won’t need the tablet. However, it guides you in a particular order throughout the museum complex.

The first building we entered after purchasing our tickets was the building designed like the inside of a big parachute.  Inside there are numerous displays of paratrooper’s gear, mementos, and stories of some of those involved in the liberation of  Sainte-Mère-Église . The museum does a beautiful job portraying the details of what these paratroopers must have gone through to prepare for their mission.

In the next building is a large display of an airplane, and on one side is a mannequin of President Eisenhower and a printed copy of his D-Day order.  Many of these guys were barely out of high school. They didn’t have much training, and yet they were going into one of the biggest and most important battles in US history. They would be some of the first boots on the ground for the US military in Normandy, France.

“You are about to embark upon the Great Crusade, toward which we have striven these many months. The eyes of the world are upon you. The hope and prayers of liberty-loving people everywhere march with you.” ~ General Dwight D. Eisenhower

One of the Airborne Museum’s life-sized displays.

In another room, audio speakers play the sounds of battle along with a display of an aerial view of  Sainte-Mère-Église . I also learned during my visit here, that the paratroopers had to carry packs that weighed anywhere from 90 lbs to 180 lbs!  Can you imagine jumping from a plane with a pack the size of a human strapped to your back?

The Soldier’s Stories Helped to Connect on a Personal Level

It was incredible to hear their stories and to take a glimpse into what those men went through. It was heroic yes, but also scary. Real courage isn’t without fear. It’s acknowledging the fear and moving forward in spite of it. Courage understands what’s at stake.

We watched a touching film that showed the images of Holocaust survivors and also the piles of dead bodies. Tears sprang to my eyes as it put in perspective what was being fought for.  All of our future freedoms were at stake if Hitler, and the other countries fighting against democracy, had not been stopped.

I highly recommend making the Airborne Museum a part of your itinerary when visiting D-Day sites in Normandy. They took excellent care to make it a moving and thoughtful museum and memorial to 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions.

Time Spent Here:  (~ 1.5 hours) Location: Airborne Museum, 14 Rue Eisenhower, 50480 Sainte-Mère-Église, France Commute Time to Next Site: ~ 30-minute drive

The entryway in the German war cemetery at La Cambe.

Site 3: La Cambe German War Cemetery

Our next stop is the La Cambe German war cemetery . It is a simple and somber graveyard, and it is also the largest war cemetery in Normandy. There are over 21,000 bodies buried here as compared with the less than 10,000 buried at the American cemetery in Colleville-Sur-Mer.

As you walk through the entrance to the cemetery, you notice straight in front of you, a mound of raised earth (also known as a tumulus). Sitting on top is a giant dark stone cross with a man and a woman on either side. I assume this represents the mother and father of the dead. I recommend you walk to the top and get a bird’s eye view of the enormous size of this cemetery.  

Most of the graves are marked with simple bronze-colored stones set in the ground. There are also rows of dark stone crosses spaced here and there across the cemetery. As I pass by the markers, I notice that most of the soldiers buried here were only 18 or 19 years old.  According to the cemetery , most of the soldiers buried here died between June 6, 1944, and August 20, 1944.

The German soldiers buried here were teenagers sent off to war by the command of their country. A surviving German soldier said that some of the soldiers enlisted in WWII were only 16 years old, forced to go to war, scared to death, wanting to run, but told they’d be shot if they did.  They had families who loved them and mourned their loss.  War is ugly no matter which side you’re on.

A view of the German cemetery at La Cambe from atop the tumulus.

A Comparison of Two Cemeteries

My visit to the German war cemetery at La Cambe provided a thoughtful comparison with my visit to the Normandy American Cemetery at Colleville-Sur-Mer. I left the La Cambe cemetery feeling sorrow at the tragic loss as a result of this war.  Although there is still certainly a sense of loss at the American cemetery, I left it feeling a sense of pride and gratefulness. It was a cemetery that celebrated and thanked those buried within, rather than only mourning their loss.

Time Spent Here:  (~ 30 minutes) Location:  La Cambe German war cemetery, Les Noires Terres, 14230 La Cambe, France Commute Time to Next Site: ~ 20-minute drive

Looking down the path to the memorial for the fallen Rangers at Pointe du Hoc.

Site 4: Pointe du Hoc

Next, we drive to the parking area for Pointe Du Hoc . Near the parking area is a memorial to the Army Rangers who gave their lives during the bloody battle fought here.  It is a moving tribute to their courage and sacrifice. It tells the story of the Ranger’s persistence to scale the cliffs soaking wet in the middle of a storm while being gunned down by Germans from above.

What courage and commitment it took for them to continue scaling the almost 100-foot cliffs! Their fellow soldiers were dying one after another, and yet they continued to climb until at last some of them reached the top and claimed Pointe du Hoc as an Allied stronghold.

The same cliffs at Pointe du Hoc the Rangers once scaled.

This, of course, is the short version.  The entire story of what occurred at Pointe Du Hoc on June 6, 1944, is an incredible tale of heroism. It is almost unbelievable, like something out of a Hollywood movie, and yet it’s true. These men defied unbelievable odds. 

The craters from the aerial bombings dot the landscape.

Lunar Landscape

F rom the memorial near the parking lot, you continue down a trail leading to the very cliffs these Rangers climbed on that dark and stormy night. You walk past large craters from aerial bombings and get a chance to step inside the bunkers the Germans built to house their 155mm arterial guns. These guns could target ships up to 12 miles offshore! You can understand why it was so crucial for Allied forces to overtake these strongholds to win the fight on D-Day.

The walk to the stone memorial overlooking the water is memorable in itself. It gives you a scope of the type of battle fought here.  Kids will enjoy exploring the craters and empty bunkers. The walk from the parking lot takes about 10 minutes.  Make sure to wear sturdy walking shoes and give yourself enough time to explore the grounds before heading on to your next stop.

Time Spent Here:  (~ 1 hour) Location:  Pointe du Hoc, 14450 Cricqueville-en-Bessin, France Commute Time to Next Site: ~ 15-minute drive

The National Guard Association Monument built atop a former German pillbox.

Site 5: National Guard Association Monument at Omaha Beach

The  National Guard monument  located along Omaha Beach is an inspiring monument dedicated to the soldiers of the National Guard who fought not only in World War I but also in World War II.  That was one of the things written on the monument that stuck out to me. It mentioned how the sons of the National Guardsmen would fight for freedom in WWII just as their fathers had fought for freedom during WWI. What a powerful legacy.

Take time to read the words and quotes engraved on each side of the monument. Close to the monument is another memorial of a National Guardsmen carrying his fellow soldier out of battle. This memorial is in tribute to the National Guardsmen of the 29th Division’s 116th Infantry Regimental Combat Team. 

They were some of the first to land on the area that is now referred to as “bloody Omaha.” They came with brothers, and boyhood friends, never to return home to their families or to live out their lives.  They were so young and so courageous. The soldiers who fought in WWII are true superheroes. 

The tribute to the National Guard titled “Ever Forward.”

Walk along the beach while you’re here and look up at the cliffs. Imagine what it was like for the soldiers who landed on these shores, wet, cold and disoriented, being gunned down in the water before they even had a chance to fight. No matter what, they wouldn’t be stopped.  They knew what they had to do, no matter the cost!

Time Spent Here:  (~ 15 minutes) Location:  National Guard Monument (Secteur Charlie), 12 Boulevard de Cauvigny, 14710 Vierville-sur-Mer, France Commute Time to Next Site:  ~ 5-minute drive

Site 6: Omaha Beach Memorial

We drove along the waterfront for another 5 minutes before reaching the parking area for the Omaha Beach Memorial.  The wind was blowing and the cold air bit into our skin. The skies were blue and clouds dotted the horizon. It made me think of the weather conditions the soldiers dealt with during the early morning hours on June 6, 1944. 

I tried to imagine a much darker and stormier scene.  The first wave of soldiers arriving soaking wet, many drowned before they ever made it to shore. Gunfire raining down from German soldiers perched on the cliffs and the beach. This was war, ugly and chaotic with freedom on the line.  

I live in the light of victory, but on D-Day, victory was still being fought for. It was a scene of tragedy, and decades later, many survivors would continue to have a hard time talking about it. I’ll never truly understand the full cost, but I’ll do my best to live gratefully.

A stone memorial at Omaha beach commemorating D-Day.

Next to the parking lot, there is a large stone marker, which is a memorial to the Allied forces landing here on Omaha Beach on June 6, 1944.  On one side of the stone memorial is the inscription: —No mission too difficult —No sacrifice too great. Duty First. Forced Omaha Beach at dawn 6 June. The other is etched with the images of soldiers and reads:  Erected in memory of those —The 116th RCT 29th Infantry Division AUS landed here June 6, 1944.

Just behind it is a beautiful metal sculpture rising out of the sand just off the shore. The sculpture created by French sculptor Anilore Banon is titled “Les Braves.” According to Banon, the sculpture consists of the following three elements:

The Wings of Hope –  So that the spirit which carried these men on June 6, 1944, continues to inspire us, reminding us that together it is always possible to change the future. 

Rise Freedom! –  So that the example of those who rose against barbarity, helps us remain standing strong against all forms of inhumanity. 

Wings of Fraternity –  So that this surge of brotherhood always reminds us of our responsibility towards others as well as ourselves. On June 6th, 1944, these men were more than soldiers, they were our brothers.

“Les Braves” sculpture on Omaha Beach.

The people of Normandy are still very grateful to the American and Allied forces for freeing them from the Germans.

If you have extra time and want to stop, there is the  Omaha Beach Museum  about a 5-minute walk from the Omaha Beach Memorial.

Time Spent Here:  (~ 1 hour) Location:  Omaha Beach Memorial, Avenue de la Libération, 14710 Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer, France Commute Time to Next Site:  ~ 15 minute drive

Lunch Break

We ate lunch at the D-Day restaurant across from the Omaha Beach Memorial parking lot. It was a choice of convenience. However, it was warm and cozy inside the restaurant. My lunch consisted of some toast topped with ham and cheese. It was a warm break from the chilly weather outside.

I recommend packing snacks and water in your car, and possibly a picnic lunch if you’re able to. I didn’t see too many dining choices along this route.  However, that may be due in part to the time of year when we visited. In the summer, you might find more options available.

Location: D-Day House, 1 Rue Désiré Lemière, 14710 Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer, France

This beautiful cemetery dotted with white crosses is a serene resting place for the heroes buried here.

Site 7: Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial

Next, we drove to  the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial in Colleville-sur-Mer. Due to the delay at the Airborne Museum, we only had about an hour to spend at the cemetery before it closed at 5:00. So we quickly parked and headed down the long path.  We bypassed the visitor’s center, knowing what little time we had and instead continued to follow the path towards the ocean, along the infinity pool, and then curving around to the cemetery.

The beautiful mosaic on the chapel ceiling.

The rows and rows of white crosses stretched out almost endlessly in front of us.  People were milling about through the rows of crosses, searching perhaps for the grave of a loved one.  As you walk throughout the Normandy American cemetery, you feel almost as though you are in a park and not a cemetery. The setting is so lush and green. It is very peaceful.

Sculptures & Artistic Tributes to the Fallen

Make sure to stop in the cemetery’s chapel.  It is the rotund building at the center of the cemetery. Step inside the small chapel and admire the beauty and thoughtfulness put into the gorgeous mosaic on the chapel’s ceiling. American painter Leon Kroll created this beautiful portrait symbolizing American on one side, sending out her son to battle and France on the other side, taking our fallen soldier in her arms.  It is such a beautiful image.  

After you finish your walk around the cemetery, make your way to the large reflection pool where you’ll see a tall bronze statue rising above from the far end.  This beautiful sculpture created by  Donald Harcourt De Lueis titled “Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves.” It bears an inscription at the bottom that reads “Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord.” On the walls close to it, you’ll find huge maps displaying all of the various forces along the shore and their routes.  It is awe-inspiring!

“The Spirit of American Youth Rising.”

If you have time, walk along the shores of Omaha Beach below the cemetery. Make sure to stop in at the visitor’s center for more helpful information regarding those buried here and to view the beautiful infinity pool.  They have volunteers on staff who can also help you locate any loved ones who are buried here.  

Normandy American Cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer is a beautiful park-like setting, very peaceful.  A wonderful resting place and memorial to these soldiers.

Time Spent Here:  (~ 1 hour) Location:  Normandy American Cemetery, 14710 Colleville-sur-Mer, France Commute Time to Next Site: This was the final stop, and it was about a 45-minute drive back to Caen.

The reflection pool at Normandy American Cemetery.

Tips & Recommendations for a Self-Guided Tour of D-Day Sites

Planning tips.

• Always check the hours for each museum directly on the museum’s website. Google is not always up to date on its listing for hours and operations.
• Pack snacks and drinks in the car to keep your energy up in between stops.
• Make sure you can drive a manual transmission before renting a car in Europe.
• Organize your day, so you have the most time at the sites you want to see. Then if you can’t make it to all the stops on the list, you will at least have seen the ones most important to you first.
• Wear layers and sturdy walking shoes.

How Much Time To Spend Here

There is so much to see that you could spend days or possibly weeks here, depending on your interests.  However, with only one day, you’ll need to pick the top sights you want to see and save the rest for your next trip. One site I would have liked to have fit into our day was Utah Beach. I guess I’ll save that for my next trip!

Getting Here:

You can take a direct train from Paris’ Saint-Lazare station to Caen. This takes approximately 2 hours, 15 minutes. You can also take a train from Caen to Bayeux if you prefer to stay there.  In Bayeux, bus #70 takes you to many of the D-Day sites if you prefer not to drive.  You can also, of course, book a tour of the sites. Caen also has an airport so if you’re coming from somewhere other than Paris, you might check to see if they have flights that go through it.

Recommended Apps to Download Before Your Trip

Google Maps:   This invaluable tool will help you get to each destination along your journey. If you plan to do a self-guided driving itinerary, then you will want to install Google Maps on your phone ahead of time and also download it for offline use.

Normandy D-Day 1944 (by Spot on Locations Ltd):  This  Normandy D-Day app  provides the names and locations for all the various D-Day sites in Normandy. It gives historical details associated with each area and includes over 500 photos and 100 locations. If you like learning more about the history, then consider downloading this app before your trip and looking through the areas you’ll visit and read up on the history associated with each.

Rick Steves Audio Europe:  Consider downloading this app before any trip you take to Europe.  If you enjoy self-guided tours, then you will appreciate this app. Just put your earbuds in, and Rick Steves will guide you on your walking tour to whichever destination you’ve chosen on the app. 

 So say you choose France, you will then see a list of all the audio guides the app has for France.  Look for the one titled “Normandy: D-Day Sites” and listen to this before your trip to D-Day to get an idea about what there is to see and learn more about the history of the region. The app has not only audio walking guides, but also interviews with local experts on a variety of subjects relating to each location.

Roses and flowers left by crosses. Reminders that they are not forgotten.

Closing Thoughts on D-Day

Visiting the D-Day sites in Normandy was like walking through the history books. It is one thing to read about this incredible date in history, but it is something else to see the area firsthand. To see the graves of the thousands of soldiers who lost their lives here, and to read about their individual stories is an incredible and moving way to spend the day.  

Visiting sites like D-Day or even Auschwitz remind me of the beauty of the human spirit. Yes, there is an ugly side to humanity. However, there is also resilience and a determination to overcome even the worst odds for the good of mankind.

I hope you plan a trip to visit Normandy, France, and the historic D-Day sites. However, if you can’t do that right now, why not visit a local Veteran’s Cemetery or museum near you, dedicated to those who gave so we could have freedom.  Say thank you the next time you see a veteran, and let’s use our freedom to show compassion and grace to everyone we meet.

Thank You to All Who Served and Continue to Serve

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10 comments.

I enjoyed your article, very informative and clear. Great tip about a packed lunch. Gives that bit more freedom to go at your own pace and wander away from the bigger sites. Also big thanks for mentioning my app Normandy DDay 1944. It’s not exhaustive on locations but gives a taste for smaller cemeteries and locations off the beaten track. All the best, Evelyn

Hi Evelyn, thank you so much for responding! I think your app is a wonderful way to learn more about the history of the area that I would not have known otherwise. Thank you so much for creating such a valuable tool!

What a wonderful article and very well written. We’re going to Normandy in September. I and excited to visit the area my dad fought in! Thank you for all this information.

Thank you Robin! I am so excited for you to get to visit that area, especially since your dad fought there. I know it will be a special trip!

Excellent overview on visiting normandy sites in a day

Thank you! I hope you enjoy your visit there!

I just got back to my hotel room in Caen. I followed your day, nearly identically, down to the restaurant. I did add Utah Beach to my itinerary, and the finished at the Overlord Museum. What a full and awe-inspiring day. I was so grateful I found your blog. It was the perfect guide to the perfect day.

That’s wonderful! Thank you so much for sharing, it made me smile. I am happy to know you had an inspiring visit. The Normandy area is so beautiful and rich in history.

We followed your itinerary closely and had a magnificent day with lots of things to think about. Thanks you so much Charity for sharing this.

Hi Paul, thank you so much for letting me know how your trip went! I am happy to hear my post helped. It is such a beautiful and historically rich area, you are right in saying it gives one lots to think about.

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Rick Steves: Normandy's magnificent Mont-Saint-Michel

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The island abbey of Mont St-Michel, one of the top pilgrimage sites of Christendom through the ages, floats like a mirage on the horizon, just off the Norman coast of France. For more than a thousand years, its distant silhouette has sent pilgrims’ spirits soaring…and it does the same for tourists today.

For centuries, devout Christians endeavored to make a great pilgrimage once in their lifetimes. If they couldn’t afford Rome, Jerusalem, or Santiago de Compostela, they came here, earning the same religious merits.

The vast Bay of Mont St-Michel, which turns into a mudflat at low tide, has long played a key role here. Since the sixth century, hermit monks came to the island in search of solitude. The word “hermit” comes from an ancient Greek word meaning “person of the desert.” The closest thing to a desert in this part of Europe was the sea. Imagine the “desert” this bay provided as the first monk climbed that rock to get nearer to God.

The rock — a small mountain forming an island — was even more isolated by they bay’s dangerous quicksand, disorienting fog, and mythic tides. Pilgrims crossed the mudflat to the island quickly and carefully, knowing that the sea swept in “at the speed of a galloping horse.” In the late 1800s a causeway was built, connecting the island to the mainland and letting pilgrims come and go without hip boots. The result: Much of the bay silted up, and Mont St-Michel started gradually becoming part of the mainland. But in 2005 an ambitious 10-year project was launched to keep it an island — and today a super-sleek, artistically swooping bridge allows water to flow freely around Mont St-Michel, preserving its island character.

The shallow bay it sits in stretches from Normandy to Brittany, fed by the Couesnon River — which marks the historic border between the two lands. Brittany and Normandy have long vied for Mont St-Michel, and the river used to pass on the other side of the abbey, making it part of Brittany. Today Mont St-Michel is just barely — but thoroughly — part of Normandy.

The town of Mont St-Michel — with fewer than 30 residents — now entertains about 3 million tourists a year (and a steady trickle of pilgrims). If this place seems built for tourism, that’s because it was, in a sense. It’s accommodated, fed, watered, and sold trinkets to generations of travelers who visit its towering abbey. Its main street — lined with shops and hotels leading up to the abbey — is always flooded with visitors, and grotesquely commercial. It’s some consolation to remember that, even back in the Middle Ages, this was a retail gauntlet, with stalls selling souvenir medallions, candles, and fast food. Omelets were popular for eat-and-run pilgrims who needed to beat the tide — and they’re still an island specialty and popular with tourists.

Early risers win with the best light — and the fewest other tourists (nearly all of them are daytrippers). As the town fills up, you can skirt the main-street crowds and enjoy Mont St-Michel’s fine 15th-century fortifications by following the ramparts up to the abbey. They were built to defend against a new weapon: the cannon. Instead of designing them too tall to climb, the forward-thinking builders made them low, to make a smaller target. While the English took all the rest of Normandy, they never took this well-fortified island. Because of its stubborn success against the English through all those years, Mont St-Michel became a symbol of French national identity.

For centuries pilgrims and monks have climbed the abbey’s stone steps. The abbey of Mont St-Michel has been a holy site since the year 708, when a local bishop had a vision in which the Archangel Michael convinced him to build here. This was an immense building project evolving over many centuries. It was a marvel — a medieval skyscraper, built upon a rock crowned by a gilded statue of Saint Michael. When you visit, imagine the headaches and hassles of the monks who ferried granite from across the bay and hiked it uphill.

A walk in the abbey is a one-way route through fine — but barren — Gothic rooms. A rented audioguide or English-language tour make this historic sight more meaningful. A highlight is the giant tread-wheel, which six workers once powered hamster-style to haul two-ton loads of stones and supplies from the landing below. This was used until the 19th century.

The centerpiece of this extraordinary construction is its church. While it’s mostly 11th-century Romanesque (with round arches and small windows), the apse behind the altar was built later. It’s Gothic with pointed arches and bigger windows.

The monks built as close to heaven as possible, on the tip of the island rock. The downside: There just wasn’t enough level ground to support such a big abbey and church. The solution: Immense crypts were built under the church to create a platform supporting each of its wings.

Sitting atop all this heavy construction like a delicate flower is the abbey’s cloister. This peaceful zone connected various rooms. Here monks would grow vegetables and medicinal herbs. They’d meditate and read the Bible. The more secluded a monk could be, the closer he was to God.

My best tip for an inspiring visit of your own: Spend the night — a memorable experience for romantics who don’t mind baggage hassles or small, overpriced rooms. Hang out until after dark, when nearly all the tourists are gone and the island is magically floodlit. Ramble the ramparts again early in the morning, and ponder the promise of a life of isolation, simplicity, and beauty that attracted monks to this dramatic spot so long ago.

This article is used with the permission of Rick Steves’ Europe ( www.ricksteves.com ). Rick Steves writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio, and organizes European tours.

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Savoring Norman Hospitality to the Last Drop

Drinking on the job, I’m finishing up a great day in Normandy. My co-author Steve Smith and I spent the day double-teaming the D-Day beaches and then reviewing our favorite restaurants in Bayeux. Our end-of-the-day treat? Dropping by the most enticing restaurant and enjoying the edible and drinkable hospitality that’s so abundant in Normandy. Here’s a big tip: If you’re going to splurge on a nice dinner in France and want the very best value — do it in a small town rather than in Paris. In this video, you’ll see that the food’s gone, the bottle’s empty, but our little party keeps on going.

Here’s how we write up this place in our guidebook: La Rapière is a lovely wood-beamed eatery — calm and romantic — ideal for a refined meal and a rare-these-days cheese platter for your finale. Reservations are wise (€29-52 menus , closed Sun, 53 Rue St. Jean, tel. 03 31 21 05 45, www.larapiere.net , charming Linda).

This is Day 37 of my 100 Days in Europe series. As I research my guidebooks and make new TV shows, I’m reporting on my experiences and lessons learned in Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Bulgaria, Romania, and beyond. Find more at blog.ricksteves.com .

6 Replies to “Savoring Norman Hospitality to the Last Drop”

not your finest post; better stick to the herb

Is it rude to take an unfinished bottle of wine with you at the end of dinner?

I hope you were within walking distance from your B&B. A hard day’s work researching your great guide books deserves a suitable finish. Bonsoir!

Looks amazing! Love seeing you so completely content and joyful! More of these candid moments, please! :D

Discovered this wonderful restaurant on my very first Rick Steves tour in 2001. Brings back fond memories. I’ve recommended this many times in the forum.

I enjoyed this video..it looks like you are having a great time, enjoying the food and wine. We can’t wait to go there again!

Comments are closed.

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DALE, YOUR GUIDE

Dale Booth Founder

After an obsessed childhood of anything war related, at the age of 16, I joined the British Army as an Infantryman, serving in The 2nd Battalion, The Royal Anglian Regiment. After 2 active tours, and postings to Germany, The United States, Northern Ireland and the United Kingdom, I went out into the big wide world, becoming ensnared in Sales management. But my heart was still in the military.

With many of my family serving in the military during WW2, including participation in the D Day landings, I never seemed to be too far away from my passion. That passion would become reinvigorated when I visited the open air museum, that is the Normandy Battlefield, with friends in 1998. This would eventually lead to our permanent move to the heart of the Normandy Battlefield in 2003.

Since 2004 I have been working as a Battlefield guide in Normandy. With an insatiable hunger for , knowledge of both the D Day landings and the many inland battles of Normandy,  my depth and knowledge would eventually lead to becoming a published D Day author, with the book “Following in the footsteps of hero’s”. During this long period I have also built up local knowledge and have come to love the Normandy region.

Here is a link to my book that I am author of, GERONIMO'S MEDICS .  You may find it an interesting read whether you are visiting Normandy alone or with a guide.

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Rick Steves Snapshot Normandy Paperback – December 27, 2022

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• Rick's firsthand, up-to-date advice on Normandy's best sights, restaurants, hotels, and more, plus tips to beat the crowds, skip the lines, and avoid tourist traps
• Top sights and local experiences: Visit the Big Clock in Rouen that dates back to the Renaissance, and see the famed Bayeux Tapestry. Pay your respects at the D-Day beaches, and cross the causeway towards the towering Mont St. Michel. Savor creamy Camembert, sip fresh local cider, or take a bike ride through the countryside
• Helpful maps and self-guided walking tours to keep you on track
• Part of series Rick Steves Snapshot
• Print length 152 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Rick Steves
• Publication date December 27, 2022
• Dimensions 4.5 x 0.8 x 7.9 inches
• ISBN-10 1641715014
• ISBN-13 978-1641715010
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What sets Rick Steves apart from other travel guides?

A personal and experienced take - Rick Steves has spent over 40 years traveling Europe and he shares his favorite spots and essential travel strategies with you.

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Rick and his team fan out across Europe personally checking and updating each listing in his guidebooks. These are the most accurate guides to Europe!

Why should I use a Rick Steves guidebook?

Rick will point you toward worthwhile experiences and help avoid expensive mistakes. A Rick Steves book is like having a tour guide in your pocket!

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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Rick Steves; 6th edition (December 27, 2022)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 152 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1641715014
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1641715010
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2.31 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 4.5 x 0.8 x 7.9 inches
• #2 in Normandy Travel Guides
• #26 in General France Travel Guides
• #123 in Tourist Destinations & Museums Guides

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Rick steves.

Guidebook author and travel TV host Rick Steves is America's most respected authority on European travel. Rick took his first trip to Europe in 1969, visiting piano factories with his father, a piano importer. As an 18-year-old, Rick began traveling on his own, funding his trips by teaching piano lessons. In 1976, he started his business, Rick Steves' Europe, which has grown from a one-man operation to a company with a staff of 100 full-time, well-travelled employees at his headquarters in Washington state. There he produces more than 50 guidebooks on European travel, America's most popular travel series on public television, a weekly hour-long national public radio show, a weekly syndicated column, and free travel information available through his travel center and ricksteves.com. Rick Steves' Europe also runs a successful European tour program. Rick Steves lives and works in his hometown of Edmonds, Washington. His office window overlooks his old junior high school.

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Rick Steves' Top Destinations When Traveling To The Netherlands

T he Netherlands is a small nation, yet it's packed with delights. And if you've spent your whole life in the U.S., where modern architecture dominates the skylines, then you'll immediately notice a stark contrast when you step into practically any Dutch city. The numerous canals and gabled houses transport you back in time, showing you a completely different side of the world, where bicycles populate the streets instead of cars.

If you're interested in taking a trip to this country, then you're in luck. The Netherlands' special characteristics haven't gone unnoticed, especially by European travel expert Rick Steves . Thanks to his extensive experience and passion, he's got some insider tips to help you look beyond typical touristy activities. If you take his advice, then you'll be able to experience true gems that are off the beaten path.

Whether you're booking a weekend getaway or a weeks-long vacation in Europe, don't skip the Netherlands. As you'll see, it's dotted with cities and towns that offer you glimpses into the Dutch lifestyle. Below are travel expert Rick Steves' top destinations you should jot down.

Read more: 28 Bucket List Destinations That Everyone Needs To Experience At Least Once

Amsterdam is the first Dutch destination anyone thinks about when you say the words "the Netherlands." It's the capital, after all, and millions of people flock to this city every year. It's true that the allure for many people has to do with the decriminalization of marijuana and the legality of sex work, but if you look beyond that, there's more than meets the eye.

For example, as Rick Steves points out, Amsterdam has retained its Golden Age architecture, so you can see the same sights people did centuries ago when they walked down the same streets. Plus, the best museums in Amsterdam  show you beautiful works from artists who are either Dutch or have lived in the Netherlands. There are also plenty of cafes and restaurants to get a taste of local food and drinks, as well as WWII walking tours .

While Steves encourages tourists to look beyond Amsterdam, he still thinks it's worth spending a day or two there to get a feel for the Netherlands. Plus, it's a good central base for visiting the other cities on his list. Most are around one hour away by train, so you won't have to go far.

Delft is another city that's retained its Golden Age architecture, and you'll see twin towers at the city gate. This city in North Holland has a white drawbridge across a canal moat, which is a remnant of Delft's old fortified days. Rick Steves describes Delft as "an idyllic mini-Amsterdam...urban Holland with training wheels," and it's true. If you don't want to deal with the large and claustrophobic crowds in Amsterdam but still want a similar atmosphere, then this is the place to go.

If you're a fan of the Dutch painter Johannes Vermeer, then this city will show you where all his inspiration came from. He's buried in the Oude Kerk (Old Church), which is located in Delft's old town. You can visit the church to view his simple marker on the ground.

In addition, this city is what Delftware is named for. This type of pottery has intricate blue designs painted on white earthenware and is inspired by Chinese porcelain. If you're interested in learning more and want to pick up some souvenirs, then you can tour Royal Delft . This 17th-century factory, which is still producing pieces, is also a museum.

Waterland is a region located north of Amsterdam, and it includes the cities of Edam, Volendam, and Marken. As the name suggests, they're all located by the sea, meaning you can get fresh seafood at the harbors. You can make an afternoon trip to all three, as they're only a 30-minute bus ride away from each other, despite being in the countryside. It's the perfect way to spend a day away from the typical tourists in Amsterdam, although Volendam is the most touristy one of all three. There are lots of souvenir shops that Rick Steves says are filled with "Dutch cliches." However, it's still a fun time, so don't discount Volendam.

Those who love cheese will have a blast in Edam, which is the city where the cheese comes from. Grab a free tour booklet from the tourist office, and make sure to stop off at the Edam Museum . You'll learn all about the history of Edam while also seeing firsthand what a 400-year-old canal house is like.

Next, make your way to Marken, which is a village peninsula. It's known for its quaint and traditional wooden houses, which were built high up on hills to prevent flooding when Marken used to be an island. There are fewer than 2,000 inhabitants here, which means it'll definitely give off a charming vibe.

Haarlem is but a 15-minute train ride west of Amsterdam, and the fact that it's a quieter, slower-paced city makes it an excellent and easy getaway. Rick Steves says that the city "[offers] small-town warmth and quick access to nearby Amsterdam." If the name sounds familiar, it's because New York's Harlem draws its name from this Dutch City. In fact, before the English took over and renamed it, New York used to be called New Amsterdam, which is why the neighborhoods within had Dutch names.

It won't be difficult to get around Haarlem, as 10 streets meet at Grote Markt ("Big Market," or the Market Square). Most of the city's activities happen here, and there are many cafes and restaurants to rest and refuel at. While you're here, check out the Grote Kerk (Big Church), which is a large and imposing building that's hard to miss. You'll find the country's largest pipe organ inside, and if you're in Haarlem during the summer, you can catch a free concert, too.

If you have a thirst for knowledge, then there are several museums where you can spend your time. For example, there's the Museum Haarlem (formerly known as Verwey Museum Haarlem), which educates visitors about what Haarlem used to be like, and the Corrie Ten Boom House , which offers you a look at real hiding places used during WWII. In addition, there's the Teylers Museum , a center for contemporary art and science.

If you love Golden Age towns, then you're in luck. Hoorn is yet another "merchant's town" from this era, per Rick Steves, but with a twist: it's had a relatively new transformation. You'll find it on the IJsselmeer, which is a lake, and it'll take around 30 minutes by train to get to Hoorn from Amsterdam. This makes it ideal for a day trip if you want to head up north.

"All buildings have been restored and many have been given a new function," according to  In Hoorn . As a result, you'll still observe typical Dutch architecture, but with a much newer appearance. In addition, things may not be as they appear. For instance, you'll see restaurants in old cheese warehouses, which adds a delightful and authentic touch to modern.

To really experience the city's history, you should look outside of the city center. More specifically, stroll down to the harbor, where you'll view the Hoofdtoren, the main tower of Hoorn. It was constructed in 1532, though it no longer served its original purpose by 1614. Other historical things you'll notice include ships and houses.

By train, Enkhuizen is an hour north of Amsterdam, so you'll want to leave early to see the sights. It's extremely rich in historic buildings with 366 monuments, to be exact. Whether you walk through the city on your own or book a tour, you'll feel as if you're living and breathing the Golden Age. If you decide to do a self-guided tour through Enkhuizen, then make sure to stop by the VVV Enkhuizen. Here, you can pick up free booklets to soak in the facts of the city and gain a newfound appreciation for it.

The highlight of Enkhuizen is its open-air museum, the Zuiderzeemuseum , the outdoor portion of which is temporarily closed until March 29, 2024. Here, you can learn about lost Zuiderzee culture. The outdoor museum spans 140 historic buildings, allowing you to wander around and experience life as it was centuries ago. According to Rick Steves , "You'll meet people who do a convincing job of role-playing non-nonsense 1905 villagers." And in the indoor museum, you can view old but gorgeous boats, as well as other related collections.

Rick Steves calls Alkmaar "Holland's tasty cheese capital," so cheese lovers can't go wrong here. There's a large cheese market  open every Friday from 10:00 a.m. until 1:00 p.m. in Waagplein, from late March until late September. During July and August, the market is also open from 7:00 p.m. until 9:00 p.m. on Tuesdays. In addition, there's a children's cheese market for kids ages 6 through 12 during these months.

In Alkmaar's main square, you'll see countless cheese wheels spread out in neat rows. There are also cheese carriers who go around with traditional barrows, bringing the cheese to the Waaggebouw, where the wheels are weighed. After that, the cheese is sold to traders. You can take plenty of pictures and videos of this spectacle and even get a selfie with the cheese girls, who educate visitors about the cheese market.

Like many other Dutch cities, Alkmaar still has its Golden Age feel, meaning that an amble down Old Town is very cozy. You can stop off at various museums as well, such as the Stedelijk Museum , where you can discover more about the city's history. Considering that it's only a 30-minute train ride north from Amsterdam, Alkmaar is a worthy city to visit, especially if you'd like a taste of authentic Dutch cheese.

Zaandijk is another city that's a half-hour train ride from Amsterdam, making it a fantastic destination for a day trip when combined with the others on this list. Admittedly, it can be touristy at times, but Zaandijk is rural enough for it not to feel stifling. Plus, it's open-air museum, Zaanse Schans, "puts Dutch culture...on a lazy Susan," says Rick Steves . So if you want a quick run-through of Dutchness, this is where you should be.

In the past, this area fulfilled a lot of the world's industrial needs. The many houses of Zaanse Schans showcase craftsmen who demonstrate their skills in things like barrel making and sail cloth manufacturing. Do note that most houses charge admission, so you'll have to pick the ones you go into wisely. To save money, you can get the Zaanse Schans Card , which, according to the site, gives you access to "several museums, two windmills, and crafts" for €29.50 (€20 for children).

Southeast of Amsterdam is Utrecht, which takes half an hour to reach by train. Many visitors consider it a smaller version of Amsterdam, like Delft, so it's one more place to add to the list if you want to avoid huge crowds. It's still very lively though, as it's not only a medieval city but also home to Utrecht University. Plus, it's the fourth-largest city in The Netherlands.

Spend the day walking around town, but put aside some time for the museums here. Rick Steves claims that Utrecht has the "best railway museum," and while that may sound strange or even dull, The Railway Museum isn't at all. According to its site, there's a "real-life station, a theatre, exciting attractions, and a variety of temporary exhibitions and events." If that's still not your cup of tea, then tour the Nijntje Museum , especially if you're with your kids. You probably better know the museum's central focus as Miffy, and did you know she was Dutch, not Japanese?

If you enjoyed a canal tour during your time in Amsterdam, then you're sure to like one in Utrecht too. You'll sail through the wide canals and get a different perspective on the beautiful old buildings. Those who feel adventurous can also go stand-up paddleboarding or canoeing.

Hop on a southbound train for 35 minutes and you'll be in Leiden, a small university city that also hosted English Pilgrims. In 1608, a decent number of the English sought refuge from religious persecution in their own country and made a temporary home in the Netherlands. Eventually, they set sail for North America between 1620 and 1643, and these people are the renowned Pilgrims whom we honor every Thanksgiving. To find out more, visit the Leiden American Pilgrim Museum , which is one of the smallest museums in the Netherlands.

As we've previously said, Leiden is a college town, with the oldest university in the nation. Leiden University was founded in 1575 by William of Orange, and according to its site , is "one of the leading international research universities in Europe." So if you or your kids are thinking of getting an education overseas, this is the perfect time to tour the campus and kill two birds with one stone. In addition, the university owns the Hortus Botanicus Leiden , which is the oldest botanical garden in the country (it's been around since 1590), so it's worth a look around.

The Hague And Scheveningen

Just a 15-minute train ride south of Leiden is The Hague, where you'll find the Binnenhof, or the country's parliament building. It's been in use since 1446, and you may catch a glimpse of Dutch politicians leaving an important meeting while you're in town. Plus, since you're in the heart of the city center, it'll be easier to get to all other points of interest in The Hague.  Rick Steves describes The Hague as "bigger and less cozy than Delft, Leiden, or Haarlem," but he still feels it's worth spending a few hours here. 

If you're vacationing during the summer, then head over to Scheveningen Beach if you have a few hours to spare. It's one of the most popular beaches in the Netherlands since it's large with a roomy boardwalk. There's also a pier with multiple shops, restaurants, and a place outside to zipline and bungee jump. When you get tired, there are many beach bars where you can rest your weary feet and sip on tasty cocktails.

At this point, you might've realized that many Dutch cities retain an old-timey look. That may be fascinating, but what about modern architecture? If that piques your interest, then you'll want to go to Rotterdam, which is 45 minutes away from Amsterdam by train.

You'll notice a stark difference in building appearances as soon as you pull into the station. This is because most are under 100 years old, after much of the city was destroyed in a German bombing during WWII. If you're feeling homesick, then you should feel right at home in this metropolitan city, as the streets are wide and the buildings are tall. In addition, there are unique points of interest, such as the Erasmus Bridge,  the Cube Houses , and the Markthal.

What's also noteworthy is that the Port of Rotterdam is the largest seaport in Europe. Take a moment to appreciate how powerful it is, and watch the ships come in and out. Not only do shipping vessels frequent the Port of Rotterdam, but ferries and cruise ships do as well.

Lisse And Aalsmeer

The Netherlands is known for its tulips, so it's no surprise that Rick Steves recommends visiting Keukenhof , the nation's most treasured flower garden that was established in the 15th century. It may take you a little over an hour to get from Amsterdam to the garden's home in Lisse, but it's totally worth it, especially if you're here at the right time. The garden is only open for about two months every year, and you can view beautiful spring flowers , including tulips. Not only can you take a peaceful stroll through the grounds, but you can take a whisper boat and go cycling too.

If you aren't able to go to Keukenhof during its opening times, then travel to Aalsmeer instead. This trip also takes about an hour from Amsterdam, and places you at the world's largest flower auction. Royal FloraHolland is open all year long, with over 30,000 species of flowers and plants. Not only will you gaze upon a rainbow of colors, but you'll also witness the inner workings of an efficient flower market.

History buffs will love Arnhem, as a significant part of WWII happened here. The Germans won the Battle of Arnhem in 1944, and the city was a ghost town for a while. To find out more about this battle, spend some time at the Airborne Museum Hartenstein  in Villa Hartenstein and the  Airborne Museum at the Bridge in the city center. Both will give you a newfound appreciation for the sacrifices made during wartime.

Plus, if you liked the open-air museum at Zaandijk, then you'll definitely have a positive experience at the Arnhem Open-Air Folk Museum . Rick Steves says , "You'll enjoy a huge park of windmills, old farmhouses, and other buildings,...traditional crafts in action, and a pleasant education-by-immersion in Dutch culture." It's a great family activity, and you can easily spend a whole day here, making it worth the 1.5-hour train journey from Amsterdam.

As for the city itself, Arnhem is known for its fashion and design scene. Check out the Modekwartier and the 7 Straatjes to get some serious shopping done. You're sure to get some special finds at the unique boutique stores.

Our Methodology For Picking These Destinations

Rick Steves is a renowned travel expert who started "Rick Steves' Europe" in 1976. According to his website , he "brings more than 30,000 people to Europe annually." In addition to being a small business owner, Rick Steves is also a "popular public television host" and "a best-selling guidebook author." We based our list of top destinations in the Netherlands on his website recommendations. 

Read the original article on Explore .