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Making the most of your boat trip across the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

Ways to make the most of your trip across ‘The Stream in the Sky’ in North Wales

One of our Little Star Pontcysyllte Aqueduct trip boat skippers and commentary providers describes some of the highlights of the trip and ways to make the most of a visit to this UNESCO world heritage site.

Our Little Star trip boat takes passengers across the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on the Llangollen Canal in North Wales, to experience incredible views across the beautiful Dee Valley.

What are the journey highlights?

Probably the most breath-taking moment is just as you pass the Ash trees on the right of the aqueduct and suddenly a panoramic view of the Dee Valley and the beautiful 17 th  century Cysylltau Bridge, known locally as ‘The Bont’ opens up beneath you. Meanwhile, on the other side the magnificent Cefn Railway viaduct is coming into view; if you’re lucky, you’ll see a train going across the Viaduct! People also find the process of turning the 70ft trip boat fascinating and seeing the lift bridge in operation.

Personally, I’ve got a soft spot for the Fron (pronounced ‘Vron’) Embankment just over the other side of the aqueduct.  It’s a surreal structure made from the spoil excavated when the canal tunnels were built, now lined with trees home to many types of birds, including gold crests, woodpeckers, nut hatches and chaffinches.

Birds fly beneath you!

Crossing the aqueduct as often as I do, you’d have thought you might start taking it all for granted; but one thing that always brings me back into the moment as I’m guiding boats across the aqueduct is the jackdaws that roost under the arches. Often they’ll swoop out from underneath the boat as we are driving along. Birds flying underneath boats, suspended 126 feet above a roaring river. If that ever feels ‘normal’ then I’ll know it’s time to find a new job!

What else can I do when I visit Pontcysyllte Aqueduct?

As well as seeing the aqueduct and the spectacular views of the Dee Valley from the trip boat, people love to experience crossing it on foot, and to enjoy a meal or a drink at the Aqueduct Inn perched up the hill overlooking the canal in Froncysyllte.

The Pontcysyllte Chapel Tea Rooms at Trevor Basin do excellent breakfasts, lunches and cream teas so it’s well worth planning a visit there too.

You can also walk down the steps to the bottom of the valley to see the Aqueduct from below, which really brings home the scale of the structure and the achievements of the canal engineers.

Another option is to head up the hill to the fascinating historic village of Cefn Mawr to see the aqueduct from above. Once the site of iron works, coal mines and brick and tile works, it’s full of little alleyways, steps and stair cases and there some great viewpoints looking out across the valley, with glimpses of the Aqueduct.

Parking at the site

The best place to park to enjoy one our boat trips and visit the Canal & River Trust’s Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Visitor Centre is the public ‘pay and display’ car park at Acrefair, Wrexham, LL14 3SG.  The car park is open daily from 8am to 8pm.

Make sure you put the car park postcode in your Sat Nav or Google maps, rather than simply ‘Pontcysyllte Aqueduct’ to ensure you arrive in the right place

When do the boat trips run?

From 29 March until 30 October 2024 trips depart daily at 11am, 12 noon, 1.30pm, 2.30pm and 3.30pm from Canal Wharf, Trevor, Llangollen LL20 7TT.

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is closed from 2nd January 2024 and reopens in the Spring.

How do I book a boat trip aboard Little Star?

For more information about Little Star and to book ahead, go to Little Star – Anglo Welsh Ltd or call us on 0117 304 1122.

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Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Visitor Centre

Our 'stream in the sky' - Pontcysyllte Aqueduct - has been named as the most captivating UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world.

UNESCO status is given to landmarks or areas that have a major cultural, historical, or scientific form of significance (like the Taj Mahal).

Taking the Llangollen Canal across the River Dee valley in North Wales, the aqueduct took ten years to complete and is a fine example of the incredible feats of engineering you can find on our canal network.

Read this page in Welsh / Darllenwch y dudalen hon yn Gymraeg

Things to do

Our free Trevor Basin Visitor Centre is the best place to start your family day out at Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (pronounced Pont–ker-sulth-teh) or 'Ponty' as we call it, with hands-on models, videos, local information, and gifts. Plenty to keep you busy. Refreshments are available on-site, so grab a drink and a snack, or maybe even an ice cream and enjoy the view.

• Horsedrawn Boats
• Anglo Welsh
• Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Canoe Tour

Walking trails

• Explorer's free education activity guide
• Offa's Dyke Trail runs through the site
• Explorer's aqueduct adventure trail
• Tŷ Mawr Country Park .
• Paddle the right way – an amazing canoe trail following the Llangollen Canal (Welsh version)

Wildlife spotting

You may see swans, coots, moorhens and ducks (you can buy special duck food from our visitor centre).

Planning your visit

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and canal are open sites you can visit at any time.

Trevor Basin Visitor Centre is open daily from 10am - 4pm.

It is free to walk along the towpath and aqueduct, there are charges payable in the car parks.

Toilets are in the small blue badge holders car park approximately 300 yards from the visitor centre.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Trevor Basin Visitor Centre, Trevor Basin, Off Station Road, Trevor, Wrexham, LL20 7TY

By car – Satnav LL14 3SG. Please look out for the brown signs in the area to avoid narrow and steep routes. It is now pay and display parking at Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Trevor Basin. Please note that our car parks are open 8am –8pm, there is no overnight parking permitted and the gates will be locked outside our opening times.

Phone 01978 822912 or email [email protected]

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The stream in the sky

It’s not just an engineering marvel, it’s a remarkable sight, and the story of how it came to be is just as incredible.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

Updated: August 3, 2023

Visiting Llangollen Canal and the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in Wales has to be seen to be believed, while the Llangollen Canal offers a wonderful path into the history of the region.

There are lots of ways that you can visit the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and experience the Llangollen Canal.

• The incredible story behind the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
• The significance of the Llangollen Canal
• What are Llangollen Canal boat trips and how can you take one
• The best way to do the Llangollen Canal walk
• A few options of good Pontcysyllte Aqueduct tours

Seeing a boat slowly chug along a British canal is usually such a delightful sight.

There’s normally something so peaceful about the way it glides through the water, slower than the pedestrians alongside it, making a statement with its speed that this is about the experience rather than the destination.

But here at the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in Wales, the boat that I’m looking at is actually terrifying me. Because it’s slowly travelling along a canal that is suspended in the middle of the air, 40 metres above the ground, with nothing but a long drop beneath it.

It looks so scary and precarious. Yet, somehow, it’s still a delightful sight. In fact – it’s probably even more so!

To visit the aqueduct as part of a tour of North Wales, there are some great options here, depending on where you’re travelling from:

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

Moving water has always been a priority for civilisations and, over the years, we’ve seen empires come up with some ingenious solutions.

I think particularly about Pont du Gard in France , which I visited last year. This enormous bridge was constructed between two hills to allow for the gradual flow of drinking water along an aqueduct.

Here in Wales, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is actually not that different in what it is trying to achieve (although the canal is for boats, not just the movement of water). So the true wonder here is not that someone thought to build a bridge… but HOW they built the bridge.

The engineering behind the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is pure genius and was a symbol of the might of the industrial revolution when it was constructed at the beginning of the 19 th century.

It is 307 metres long, 3.7 metres wide, and just 1.6 metres deep. Seeing how it all comes together is fascinating.

Coming up from the ground (and from the river bed) are 18 tall pillars made of stone. Connecting each of them at the top are arched iron ribs, each spanning 16 metres. And then the iron trough that carries the water sits on top of that.

It really is hard to believe that it’s all possible. Even though it looks quite simple at first glance, the engineering skills to have made it work must be incredible!

Llangollen Canal

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is just a small part of a much longer canal system that was designed to connect the lowlands of England with the rugged terrain in the higher parts of Wales.

The main stretch that goes from Cheshire in England to Llangollen in Wales is now known as the Llangollen Canal. Although back at the start of the 19 th century when the aqueduct was being built, the network was actually a bit of a confusing mess because different routes and stages were being completed at different times (or sometimes not at all).

What’s important to know, though, is that the goal was achieved of using these canals to transport goods.

Boats that were towed along the waterways carried coal, iron, slate and limestone. The industrial revolution in Britain had its fuel, and one of its biggest export commodities, because of these canals!

Although this iron bridge over the River Dee is the highlight, there were actually many other engineering feats along the path of the Llangollen Canal – including another aqueduct (called the Chirk Aqueduct), tunnels, cuttings, and embankments.

An 18 kilometre stretch of the canal that includes both aqueducts and many of the most impressive pieces of engineering has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. There are a few ways to explore it.

Llangollen Canal boat trips

The Llangollen Canal was used for about 150 years to transport good that were needed by various industries. It was only in the middle of the 1900s that it became more inefficient and costly than alternative routes. But the boats didn’t stop – they just started carrying sightseers instead.

The best way to experience the Llangollen Canal is by the very thing that it was intended for – a boat ride. It’s the most popular leisure canal in Britain and probably the most beautiful. You can either go the entire length or just a part of it.

Doing a Llangollen Canal boat trip for the entire 66 kilometre length takes about three days. For a lot of visitors, its better to just do a day trip (or shorter). There are five companies within the World Heritage Site area that offer short trips. You can see the options here .

Llangollen Canal walk

Another good option is to walk along the Llangollen Canal, which is very easy to do because of the towpath along the route.

The most popular stretch is the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct walk between the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen, taking you past many of the waterway’s highlights.

That stretch is about 7.5 kilometres and can be done in as short as 90 minutes (although you’ll probably want a bit longer to enjoy the scenery along the way).

It’s easy to do a loop back along a different route that takes you to the ruins of Castell Dinas Bran, along the Llangollen Panorama Walk, and even a taste of the Offa’s Dyke National Trail.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct tours

Or you may prefer to visit Pontcysyllte Aqueduct as part of a tour. There aren’t really any tours that just come here but there are some great tours of northern Wales that include the aqueduct on their itinerary.

If you’re looking for a shore excursion from Liverpool Port, then there’s this great tour of the sights of North Wales .

Otherwise, there are a few options here, depending on where you want to leave from:

However you choose to experience it, do make sure you walk across the length of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Although it is obviously perfectly safe, it is a strange sensation to be so high up on such a narrow structure – whether it’s in a boat or on foot.

Time Travel Turtle was a guest of  Visit Wales  but the opinions, over-written descriptions and bad jokes are his own.

This site is on the UNESCO World Heritage List ! I'm on a mission to visit as many World Heritage Sites as I can. Only about 800 more to go... eek!

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1 thought on “The stream in the sky”

We have been across here on a hired Narrowboat when on holiday and it was spectacular- but very scary – can’t wait t9 do it on our own boat

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Canal Holidays guide to the Llangollen Canal

The Llangollen Canal is considered the most beautiful waterway in the country.

It includes the famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, one of the wonders of the canals, and is noted for its many lift bridges.

The full length of the canal is a week's cruise full of contrasts, from the staircase locks at Grindley Brook to Shropshire's mini lakes around Ellesmere, from the rolling plains of Cheshire to the hills and mountain scenery around Llangollen.

Cruising the Canal

From the eastern end of the canal cruise through rural scenery past Wrenbury village to Grindley Brook and the market town of Whitchurch.

Traverse the remote Whixall Moss peat bog into the little known Shropshire Lake District and past some of its seven Meres to the unspoilt small country town of Ellesmere.

After Ellesmere the canal continues past farmland and open country to Chirk and through the Chirk Tunnel, with Chirk Castle close by. Cross from England into Wales over the Chirk Aqueduct then cruise on to Thomas Telford's breathtaking Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.

It carries the canal in an iron trough 1,000 feet across the River Dee at a height of 120 feet.

The canal hugs the steep sides of the Dee valley with superb panoramic views before entering Llangollen on a high embankment.

Please note that we have been advised that there is damage to the Middlewich Branch of the Shropshire Union Canal, so it is not possible to access the Cheshire Ring from these bases at present.

Distance, Time, and Locks

• Pleasant week, and a favourite with both new and experienced canal boaters.
• For those seeking a gentle week, the 30 mile long canal section between Llangollen and Whitchurch includes only 2 locks.
• Short breaks are available.

Places of Interest

Grindley Brook staircase locks Ellesmere and lakes Chirk aqueduct: tunnel, and castle Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Llangollen: interesting town with restaurants, pubs, and shops, famous for its International Music Eisteddfod held annually in July. Horse drawn trip boat to the start of the canal at the Horseshoe Falls. Steam railway, motor museum.

Possible Holidays

One Week The whole canal length makes a good one week holiday. Mooring close to Llangollen has improved with the construction of a new marina moorings.

Short Breaks Mid-week and weekend breaks are available from all Canal Holidays Bases on the Llangollen Canal .

Historic Chester may be reached in a midweek break from Base 19 or on a short break from Base 18.

Longer Holidays In a two week trip the Llangollen Canal can be combined with the Four Counties or Cheshire Rings, or can be extended with a visit to Chester, famous for its city walls and historic Rows.

Narrowboat bases on the Llangollen Canal

Click on a boat base below for more information and possible routes from that base.

Customers' Comments

Read what some of our previous clients say about the Llangollen Canal.

"Ellesmere port is a pretty little town with a good food shops and pubs. We'd recommend The Woolpack in Llangollen - it's a very pretty and somewhat eclectic restaurant that looks out over the river. It also had a decent selection of wines." CD, UK

"Wish we were rich...we'd come back and do our Welsh trip all over again. Thanks for a fine time. I won't soon forget when your man jumped off the boat at the bridge...leaving me ALONE AT THE HELM!!" AK, USA

"Our first narrowboat holiday, but the combination of an exciting route and a well fitted boat made it something to be repeated." AH, UK

"The four of us, ranging in age from 53 to 73, all had a marvellous 4 days. Thanks for your help in organising it." MW, Australia

"We voyaged from Chirk to Llangollen to Nantwich and back to Chirk. The route was diverse and characterised by magnificent scenery as well as breathtaking historical canal works. We recorded 32 species of birds. We spent nights alternatively in towns and in rural byways. When they wished, the youngsters would jump ashore and walk or run the towpath, usually reboarding at a bridge site along the way. Other travellers we met were friendly and relaxed." AS, USA

"I think it was one of the best holidays I've ever had and I could've stayed for another four weeks. My partner feels the same way. The boat was clean, reliable and stocked with the groceries that we requested. A friendly chap showed us the ins-and-outs of the boat pretty succinctly and off we went. We actually fell in love with the boat and were very sad to leave her behind." CD, UK

"Most of the route exceeded our expectations. We cynically expected that the best was shown in the brochures but learned that the whole route was full of nice scenery with new surprises at each bend. The Llangollen was fanatastic." MH, USA

"The Llangollen Canal and Montgomery Canal were an outstanding experience. Aside from the natural beauty, the small number of locks was attractive to a wife to whom such things do not appeal." DM, South Africa

"The boat was in perfect condition, perfectly clean, the galley well supplied, and instructions were clear and accurate. The young lady who briefed us was polite and professional and patient. The free parking was a major plus and the Chirk Castle setting another plus. AG, USA

Canal Holidays, Bowers Wharf, Skipton, BD23 2PD, United Kingdom

How To Visit Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in Wales: 6 Best Things To Do

Messing about in boats takes on a whole new dimension at the UNESCO World Heritage Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen Canal in North Wales. In this lush green area packed with historic Welsh castles, one place – quite literally – stands above all others.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct – known as the “ Stream in the Sky ” – is more than just another Victorian edifice.

Grey Globetrotters Travel Blog contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. See my  disclaimer  for more information.

About the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen Canal

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is part of the Llangollen Canal that connects the lowlands of England with the rugged Welsh hills, running from Cheshire in Northwest England to Llangollen in Wales. Pontcysyllte is the longest aqueduct in Britain and the highest canal aqueduct in the world.

In the Industrial Revolution, horse-drawn canal barges used the canal network to transport coal, iron, slate, and limestone from Welsh mines to coastal ports for export and to English industrial towns and cities; however, the canals were abandoned when road and rail transport became cheaper and quicker. Today, they are a beautiful leisure network.

The Best Things to Do At Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and the Llangollen Canal

Here are the most popular things to see and do, including crossing the aqueduct

1. The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Walk

The Pontcysyllte aqueduct is 1,007 feet long, which doesn’t sound very far, but its incredible height makes this walk along a narrow towpath thrilling.

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The canal towpath is mounted above the water, with sturdy railings to prevent accidents (and to hold onto if you suffer from vertigo).

The ultimate view is from the centre of the aqueduct, high above the River Dee and the valley over 100ft below. I was proud I managed to conquer my fear and walk Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (even though my knees were knocking the whole time).

Here are a couple of safety tips:

• If you’re travelling with small people – hold on tight to them when crossing the aqueduct!
• Be aware that the towpath is two-way – pedestrians, wheelchairs, buggies and bikes (cyclists must dismount).

You’ll also have a good view of another Telford masterpiece – the double aqueduct at Chirk is well worth a visit too.

2. Pontcysyllte aqueduct boat trips

The best way to experience the Llangollen Canal is on a narrowboat trip. If you have plenty of time, it takes about three days to travel the 46 miles of the canal, including 21 locks.

Alternatively, Llangollen Wharf and Pontcysyllte Aqueduct boat companies offer short horse-drawn and motorised trips.

3. Paddle across the Aqueduct in a Canoe

One of the most exciting ways to experience the Llangollen Canal and to cross the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is by canoe.

You can also take a paddleboard along the Llangollen Canal but must dismount to cross the aqueduct.

4. Walk Down the Valley to the River Dee

After a lofty crossing of the aqueduct, wander down (a lot of steps) to the banks of the River Dee for a completely different perspective of the area and the aqueduct. It’s a very pleasant walk, but remember – all those steps need to be climbed back up again!

There are clearly marked walking trails on both sides of the river, and it only takes about 10 minutes to reach a spot with an outstanding view of the Pontcysyllte aqueduct. From so far below, it almost looks like the narrow boats crossing the aqueduct are flying!

5. Check Out The View from the Old Bridge

Downstream from the aqueduct, a narrow (single-lane) bridge on the B5434 road crosses the River Dee – moments from the Trevor Basin car park.

There’s no formal parking at this point, but you can park safely on the (steep) hill down to the bridge before walking across the bridge to take in the view upstream towards the aqueduct.

6. Explore the Llangollen Canal

The walks along the Llangollen Canal are stunning- even if you’re not usually much of a walker. There are bus stops along the way and plenty of benches to sit on and watch narrowboats pass by. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot herons too.

Pubs along the route include the Telford Arms and the Cornmill at Llangollen, and you will find cafes at both ends of the canal between the Pontcysyllte aqueduct and Llangollen.

• The level, easy walk to the gorgeous Horseshoe Falls takes between 30 mins and 1 hour, depending on your pace.
• A gentle walk from the town of Llangollen towards the viaduct (4 miles) will take about 1 hour – you can either make it a circular walk or catch a bus back from the Trevor basin.
• From Pontcysyllte, there’s also a lovely 4-mile walk to Chirk Aqueduct through two very dark tunnels – remember to pack a torch! Alternatively, hire a bicycle at Trevor – it’s a very pleasant 1 to 1 1/2 hour round trip.

Where to Stay Near Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Wales

If you plan to explore the local area for a few days, Llangollen and Chirk are the most convenient places to stay. Here are some of the best options for you:

• Foxtail Luxury Lodges : Perfect lodges with hot tubs in a convenient location for exploring locally in North Wales
• Moreton Hall Hotel in Chirk is just 6 miles away from the aqueduct.
• Riverside Cottage at Rhewl is adorable and ideally located, while these Shepherd’s huts offer a real taste of rural bliss.

Just 10 miles away, you’ll find Sweeney Hall Hotel in Oswestry, which is a real find and some of my favourites! I’ve been visiting for almost 50 years ( read my review here )

How long did the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct take to build?

The stone and cast iron Pontcysyllte Aqueduct took ten years to design, build and test – from 1795 – it finally opened on 17th November 1805 after six months of testing to make sure there were no leaks!

18 massive, tapering pillars support the 126ft high aqueduct, which has 19 arches, each with a 45ft span.

Water is carried over the aqueduct in a trough made from cast iron plates. The trough is just under 12ft wide and is 5ft 3in deep. It’s a true marvel of early Victorian engineering.

Why was Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Wales Built?

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct was designed to carry the Llangollen Cana l over the River Dee, connecting England and Wales and the rivers Severn, Dee, and Mersey.

Who Built the Aqueduct?

The aqueduct is the masterpiece of famed Scottish civil engineer Thomas Telford (1757-1834).

His projects also included the Caledonian Canal , the Menai Suspension Bridge , the incredible Neptunes Staircase in Banavie, Scotland, and The Iron Bridge – the world’s first iron bridge.

Telford was so influential that he became the first president of the Institute of Civil Engineers in 1820.  

Two other eminent Victorians were key to the success of the project:

• Consulting engineer : William Jessop (23 January 1745 – 18 November 1814)
• Structural engineer: William Hazeldine (6 April 1763 – 26 October 1840)

Gaining UNESCO World Heritage Status

In recognition of the feat of civil engineering employed in designing and building the aqueduct, the Grade 1 listed structure and the Llangollen Canal were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in June 2009.

The World Heritage site includes the two most famous aqueducts in Wales, Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Chirk Aqueduct , plus the Chirk Viaduct , tunnels, cuttings, and 11 miles of the Llangollen canal, running from Gledrid Bridge near Rhoswiel to the incredible Horseshoe Falls .

A masterpiece of creative genius UNESCO

Fun Facts About Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

• The mortar used to build the aqueduct was made of oxblood, lime, and water.
• The aqueduct carries 1.5 million litres of water and takes 2 hours to drain.
• Otters are regularly spotted in the Llangollen canal – but not on the aqueduct itself.

Where is Pontcysyllte?

The aqueduct is located in the beautiful Vale of Glamorgan in North East Wales, about an hour away from Liverpool and Manchester and 2 hours from Birmingham.

Location: Station Rd, Trevor, Llangollen LL20 7TY

How to get to Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

Most visitors drive to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Llangollen Canal; however, there are good sustainable travel options too.

By Public Transport : Chirk and Ruabon are the nearest train stations, while local buses serve the area from Llangollen and Wrexham. (You’ll need a taxi from Ruabon to Llangollen).

Before you book a taxi – check out these taxi safety tips .

By Foot: The aqueduct is a 4-mile walk from Llangollen and is about 3 miles from Chirk.

By Car : Parking is both plentiful and well signposted. Dedicated parking for disabled blue badge and permit holders is very close to the aqueduct.

• The main Pontcysyllte Aqueduct car park is near Cefn Mawr (LL14 3SG)
• The dedicated car park for disabled blue badge and permit holders is off Station Road (LL20 7TY)
• There’s also an overspill car park at Wimbourne Gate, Queens Street, Cefn Mawr (LL14 3NP)

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct FAQs

How do you pronounce pontcysyllte.

Pontcysyllte is a Welsh word that means “the bridge that connects”. It’s pronounced pont – ker – sulth – the, but it’s also known locally as “Ponty”.

Is the Aqueduct one way?

The aqueduct is two-way – both for narrowboats and for pedestrians.

How often is the aqueduct drained for maintenance?

Every five years, both ends of the aqueduct are closed. A plug located in one of the highest spans is opened to drain the canal water to allow inspection and maintenance of the trough. The water plume takes at least 3 seconds to reach the River Dee, 111 feet below. The trough was last emptied in 2019, so the next time to see this spectacle will be in 2024.

More things to do and see in the local area

• Try white water rafting with this tour down the epic rapids (Serpent’s Tail and Town Falls) on the River Dee
• Discover Chirk : Visit Chirk Castle, Chirk Aqueduct, and Chirk Viaduct.
• Climb to the summit of the ruined medieval Castell Dinas Bran
• Visit the bewitching Roman City of Chester to see its city walls, Roman amphitheatre, and 1,000-year-old cathedral
• Potter around Llangollen – home of the internationally renowned original Eisteddfod festival

We loved visiting the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal World Heritage site. If you’re looking for something a little different to do on a trip to Wales, don’t miss this special place.

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Foxtail Chirk: Are These North Wales Lodges With Hot Tubs Worth It?

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Sweeney Hall, Shropshire: A Review of this Historic & Unique Hotel

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Coralie Thornton, the owner and author of Grey Globetrotters, has been a traveller for more than four decades. Her passion for adventure has led her through over 40 countries, seeking cultural experiences, delicious foods, and hidden gems. Today, she helps others experience the UK, Europe, Egypt and China, with meticulously crafted travel itineraries and affordable luxury travel guides.

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Llangollen and Return

Llangollen canal route guide.

The Llangollen canal meanders around the Welsh border and is one of the most popular holiday routes for narrow boaters.

If you're wondering why Llangollen canal trips are so popular, the route has lots to offer – including picturesque countryside, plenty of places to stop, minimal locks (only 2 locks on the whole stretch from Whitchurch to Llangollen), 2 tunnels, and 2 aqueducts including the spectacular World Heritage site Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, appropriately nicknamed ‘The Stream in the Sky’. What’s not to like?

Our helpful team have put together this seven-day guide of what you could expect on your own Llangollen canal trip – including detailing the best Llangollen canal pubs, mooring spots and more.

He gave us suggestions about where to moor on the route and where to get a good meal on our last night! He even came with us on the boat until we had negotiated the first swing bridge before waving us off on our narrowboat adventure. As there were only 2 of us, we had chosen one of the smaller boats in the ABC Boat Hire fleet. The Black Headed Bunting was just perfect for us, especially as the galley is at the back of the boat, so when you are making meals and drinks you can still talk to your tiller person.

Even though there are no locks on the Llangollen between Whitchurch and Ellesmere, there are a few swing bridges, so we got some practice at using our windlass to open and close them. The cruise is then quiet and peaceful, and we were able to spend time looking at the lovely countryside and spotting a duck with all her chicks under her wing aah! We decided to have lunch on the move – so I put together a salad and we took it in turns to leave the tiller to eat. Shortly before reaching Ellesmere, we could see the Ellesmere tunnel coming up. Its only short (87 yds), and we could see there was nobody coming the other way, so we gently cruised in. As we did though, 2 men on a boat behind us started shouting "speed up"! I was on the tiller and couldn't understand why they wanted me to go faster through a tunnel until one of them shouted "I can’t stop"! As their boat was now on a collision course with ours, I did speed up. It wasn't until afterwards that I wondered why they couldn't go into reverse to slow down, but maybe they were even newer than us at this narrow boating lark and had a bit of a panic...

Once we got to Ellesmere, we remembered that Ed had suggested we don't go up the Ellesmere Arm, so we didn't, but cruised past it and found a mooring next to the towpath just after the Arm. It turned out to be good advice, as the Arm was full – and we would have had to go all the way up just to turn round and come all the way back again. We were also facing the right way to carry on cruising the next day, so we were happy with our little spot. Time to leave our boat in search of an evening meal. We walked up the Arm and saw an advert for a Greek restaurant called Meze.

We decided to go there and got a really tasty meal - £15 for 5 courses to share AND a big bowl of chips! Suitably fed and watered, we retired back to our boat where I unearthed the bottle of Baileys I had brought with me and plotted our route for the next day (basically just keep going, that should be easy).

We set off at 8.30am with our aim for the day to reach Chirk, where Ed had given us another tip about a good place to moor. It was a beautiful day with gorgeous countryside, and in what seemed like no time at all, we found ourselves passing the top of the Montgomery Canal at Lower Frankton. The Montgomery is slowly being restored, and you can only go down it if you have booked your boat's passage beforehand.

It looked really pretty as we cruised past. After the junction, the bridge numbers on the Llangollen start again with a W after them, and once you've gone past bridge 11W, you know the locks are coming up. David moored us up on the centre rope before the first lock, and then I was able to untie us and hop straight back on the boat to go into the lock - easy! After that, there was a short stretch before the 2nd lock where we repeated the operation, only to find ourselves waiting for a canoe to come out of the lock which was a bit of a surprise. Immediately after the 2nd lock we saw some water points on the right-hand side, so we pulled over to top up our water before carrying on towards Chirk. Now the cruise started getting really interesting, as the Chirk Aqueduct is immediately followed by the Chirk tunnel.

I had been a bit nervous about the aqueducts, but once we were on the Chirk one I loved it - fantastic views of the viaduct and the surrounding countryside. There's even a notice on it telling you not to walk on the edge, as if anyone would do that... There was a boat behind us going into the Chirk tunnel, so after getting David to switch all our lights on including the headlight, I sped up a bit just to make sure nobody tried to hit us from behind again! Upon emerging from the tunnel, we looked for an inlet on the right-hand side where Ed had told us we could moor. It was almost immediately after the end of the tunnel, so we overshot it and had to reverse back to get into it.

Just one spot left, just the right size for our little boat. Cruising completed for the day and it was only 2.30pm! By now the weather was absolutely glorious, the kind of day you don’t often get in the UK, so we decided to make the most of it and walked up to Chirk Castle through the countryside. The castle is on a hill (not the one in the Ed Sheeran song) with stunning views to all sides. It’s a National Trust property and well worth a visit, especially if you are a member. Having walked all the way back, our thoughts turned to food, so after watching Eggheads on our tv (yes, there was a good reception!) we walked into Chirk itself and decided to eat our evening meal at the Hand Hotel in the centre.

The food was really good and the bar area was furnished with an eye-catching carved Welsh dragon which was apparently made locally. Having enjoyed our pub meal, it was a 10 minute amble back to our boat; the mooring inlet wed chosen was lovely and quiet and we had a great night’s sleep!

We were up and breakfasted early, excited at the prospect of getting to the famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and our final destination at Llangollen. Casting off at about 7.45am, we cruised through gentle shady countryside, through the Whitehouse tunnel (191 yds), and onwards to negotiate a Lift bridge at Frontcysyllte. I was just thinking it wouldn't be long now before the aqueduct when we rounded a corner and there it was facing us with a boat coming across it in the opposite direction! We had to hurriedly get our boat over to the other side of the canal, out of their way, before we could see the aqueduct was clear and we could proceed.

David had agreed to man the tiller over the aqueduct so that I could get some pictures, and I excitedly walked over to the open side of the aqueduct, only to quickly scuttle back to the other side - it's really scary! There is literally nothing but a sheer drop between you and the Dee Valley below, and even though we knew we were quite safe in our little channel full of water, its got to be one of the most breath-taking experiences I have ever had. Just have a look at the photos... Once safely over the aqueduct you find yourself at Trevor basin where Thomas Telford stayed at the Trevor Inn while the aqueduct was being built. Telford was the architect who designed the Pontcysyllte and it took 10 years to complete.

We made a sharp left-hand turn to continue our journey along the Llangollen canal, and just after going under the first bridge, a man on the towpath walked towards us shouting "there's chaos just ahead!" The canal gets very narrow on the final stretch to Llangollen, and there are a couple of sections where it is one-way. Even though there is an occasional passing place, it's a good idea for one of your crew to get off the boat and walk up ahead so that they can tell you if it's safe to proceed. That hadn't happened on this day and so there was a bit of a boat traffic jam! Having waited for it to clear, we had a lovely cruise into Llangollen with incredible views over the Dee valley to the left of us virtually all the way. Upon arriving in Llangollen, we moored up at one of the water points near Bridge 45W (this is permitted, unlike other water points where waiting is restricted to half an hour). David walked to the nearby cafe to buy our mooring permit - you have to pay to moor at Llangollen but its only £6 for 24 hours so hopefully won't break the bank.

We hadn't topped up with water since the previous day, so we decided to get the hose out and..... it was gone! Despite my suspicious questioning of my poor husband (are you sure you put it back in the boat?), David was adamant that he put it back there safely after our last top up, so we could only conclude that the phantom hose stealer had purloined it while we were moored up at Chirk.... A very kind couple in the boat moored next to ours let us borrow their hose, and I phoned Whitchurch marina to let them know.

We reckoned we'd probably manage for water until we got back to Ellesmere and decided we could call in at Blackwater Meadow marina there to fill up again before the end of our holiday. Having solved that little dilemma, we decided to go and explore Llangollen, but before we'd actually left the canal we spotted rides being organised on a horse-drawn narrowboat (£7 a ticket), cruising up a small feeder canal. There is no turning point on the feeder so hire boats can't go up it, but the horse drawn boats just turn the horse round and tow the boat back again! It was a lovely experience, so peaceful with no engine running; it must have been much quieter in the days when all boats were horse drawn. We then decided to continue our holiday making with a trip on the Llangollen steam railway.

The railway was closed in 1968 but rescued by local enthusiasts, and the train now looks very splendid indeed and was a pleasure to be aboard. It was £15 a ticket to go to Corwen and return. After a bit of souvenir shopping, we had a meal in one of the many eateries in Llangollen, before walking back up the hill to the canal and our boat. We noticed that almost everyone had already turned their boat to be ready to set off back towards Trevor the next day, but by now it was dark so we decided to turn in the morning. Time for my evening tumbler of Baileys!

We passed a man walking his dog along the towpath who told us that 3 boats had travelled ahead of us at 5.30am; now that's just ridiculous.... Time for a second crossing of the magnificent Pontcysyllte aqueduct and David did a superb job on the tiller again, although just before the end I could hear him keeping himself focused on the task by talking to himself aloud 'look straight ahead, look straight ahead'. He says it's OK so long as you don't look down! I took the opportunity to take in one last look at the incredible panoramic view. If you do this route, glance across the valley as you return from Llangollen to Trevor. If you're lucky you'll see a boat crossing the aqueduct and it looks spectacular. We cruised on merrily back towards Chirk, through the Whitehouse tunnel, then the Chirk tunnel, back over the Chirk Aqueduct. We had thought about mooring up at the Lion Quays Hotel at bridge 17, but as it was only 12 noon when we got there we decided we would carry on, go through the 2 locks and then finish our day's cruising at the Jack Mytton Inn at Hindford (first stop after the locks). At about 12.30pm we were approaching the locks when we noticed what looked like a HUGE queue of boats all along the left-hand side of the canal. As we got nearer, people on the towpath started signalling to us that we should pull over.

It turned out this was the queue to go back through the locks and everyone was temporarily mooring up while they waited. I jumped off the boat to see how many boats were ahead of us and counted 11. With etiquette at locks being for boats to take it in turns to come through up and down, it looked like we were going to be there for quite a long time! Never mind, it was a nice day and we chatted to some of the other boaters in the queue, had our lunch, and by 1.30pm we were up from 12th to 7th in the queue. We finally got through the locks at 3.30pm, and thought how lucky we were that we had started out so early. Having escaped from our lock-queueing extravaganza, we got to Hindford at 4pm. There were quite a few boats already moored up, but luckily for us our little boat just fitted into a gap in the mooring inlet right next to the pub. As the day wore on, it seemed as though every ABC Boat Hire boat on the canal decided to do the same as us and we ended up at the head of a parade of smart green and red boats.

Our dining experience that evening was at the Jack Mytton Inn next to the canal - its pub sign is a curious picture of a man riding a bear. Jack Mytton was an eccentric local aristocrat born in the late 18th century who inherited a substantial estate when his father died when Jack was only 2 years old. One of his many practical jokes was to arrive at a dinner party at Halston Hall riding a bear, hence the picture on the pub sign bearing his name. History lesson aside, we dined on Bear Pie (I don't think it was made out of bears) and Bangers & Mash. It was the most delicious meal of the whole week and I thoroughly recommend stopping there if you can bear it! **Please note: since writing this blog, the Jack Mytton Inn has apparently closed down which is a great shame (updated information June 2018).

Having made such brilliant progress yesterday, we set off for Ellesmere at 9am and arrived just after 11am, meaning we'd got almost the whole day at leisure! First port of call was Blackwater Meadow marina to pick up a replacement water hose, and then we ambled into Ellesmere.

After about 20 minutes we found ourselves at the Ellesmere itself and we treated ourselves to a boat trip around the lake (£5 for half an hour) this time skippered by someone else so we could relax and look at the scenery. The Mere is 70ft deep in the middle and was formed 10,000 years ago when the ice age ended. Today, it's really pretty with water lilies, a folly at the far side, and plenty of wildlife including Jemima Puddleduck who came to say hello to us. We spent the rest of the day wandering around looking in the little art gallery and various quirky shops, before plumping for the Black Lion public house for our evening meal, which was delicious and reasonably priced. Time to go back to the Black Headed Bunting where I was sad to find I was draining the final glass of Baileys from the bottle.

Turned out that in such windy weather I needed to use a lot more revs to counteract the effect of being blown about. Once we'd successfully moored up, I thanked him for his help; he replied in a gruff voice "we've all got to learn". Having topped up our water, we spent the day lazily cruising our way back to Whitchurch. Ed had given us a tip of where to spend our final night aboard and where we could moor, but first of all I wanted to have another go at boat manoeuvring (glutton for punishment), so tried to turn the boat round in one of the winding holes near the marina. Once again the wind sabotaged my attempts, pushing the boat sideways just when I'd got it halfway round, so I ended up with the boat drifting out of the winding hole sideways to the narrower part of the canal.

By this time, I was rapidly losing confidence, until David appeared next to me and said look at the stern. So I looked, and wondrous to behold, it was very slowly turning and success was eventually achieved. Phew! Having turned back again, we proceeded to cruise just past Whitchurch Marina to the top of the Grindley Brook staircase of locks. There are moorings there and a winding hole just at the top, so we turned the boat there (I let David do it, aren't I generous) and moored up for our final night facing the right way to travel back to the marina in the morning. We had a look at the staircase itself which consists of 3 locks in a row, followed by another 3 locks quite soon afterwards.

There's a friendly cafe right by the staircase and we went in for a cup of tea. I was slightly unnerved though by two gigantic effigies of Rosie & Jim which appeared to be suspended from the wall, they didn't look very happy up there..... Eds recommendation for our final evening meal was the Horse & Jockey restaurant and bar, which is just a 5 minute walk from the locks and 10 minutes from our moorings. It's very popular so we did book a table a few hours before, but it was well worth it as the food and ambience was really good and welcoming.

Just 20 minutes' cruising got us back to Whitchurch for 9am, to reluctantly part with our floating home after an unforgettable week on the Llangollen. No wonder its popular - we'd love to go back again and perhaps try the Montgomery canal next time. If you're thinking of cruising the Llangollen, don't think any more, just do it!

Click here to download the pdf and see more photos

Find out more about our Llangollen and return route now – or get in touch with our friendly team to book your next canal boat holiday.

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From £55 Per Person

Pontcysyllte aqueduct canoe tour.

Paddle in the Sky – the best way to experience the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.

A phenomenal canoe trip over the stream in the sky. Available for all abilities with any level of experience. 

Join us on one of our Llangollen Aqueduct Canoe Tours .  Canoe over Thomas Telford’s world heritage marvel of engineering which stands 38 metres (126 ft) above the River Dee after a tranquil and picturesque journey down the Llangollen Canal. 

A not-to-be-missed activity in Llangollen, North Wales. Perfect for individuals, couples, family adventures, school groups, stag & hen dos and corporate team training. Everyone is welcome. We have both 2 and 3-seater Canoes so any group size can be accommodated.

Perfectly situated close to the A5 route into Snowdonia, add this half-day activity to a weekend break in North Wales.

A stunning family-friendly thing to do. An unforgettable activity for anyone tailored for any size of group. Dog friendly at owners’ own risk.

This canoe experience includes a half-day paddle on the Llangollen Canal including logistics. Suitable for anyone over the age of 8. Younger children are welcome accompanied by a parent. 

We can run an adapted version of this session for anyone wanting to do an Aqueduct Kayak Tour. 

Have you seen our alternative tour? Please book our alternative Canoe Trip if you fancy a change or have a fear of hights as the Chirk Aqueduct is more protected without the shear drop next to you. Chirk Aqueduct & Tunnel Canoe Tour

Aqueduct Facts

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct was completed in 1805 and is the highest aqueduct in Britain. The cast-iron trough construction is 3.4 metres (11 ft) wide and 1.6 metres (5.25 ft) deep. Eighteen stone arches support the aqueduct 38 metres (126 ft) above the River Dee.

My Wife and I chose the 3 hour canoe experience, across the viaduct. We would recommend this to anyone. It was a great enjoyable morning. Really pleased we booked this activity. Chris our tutor/guide was fab Gary

The Details

Price:  .

£59 per person – 13 Yrs + (min 2 people)

£55 per person – 12yrs and under (with at least one adult)

Individual private sessions for £89

Age 8+ and confident in water.

If over 16 stone please contact us before booking.

Younger children can be accompanied by Parent/Guardian.

Dog friendly at owners risk.

All safety equipment is provided, you will need outdoor clothing with sturdy footwear to suit the conditions that could get wet, and a head for heights.

3hr session most days of the year!

09:30-12:30 or 13:30-16:30

0915 or 1315 Park and walk to the meeting place

See booking confirmation of where to park. No more than a 5 mninute walk.

Meet 0930 or 1330

See booking confirmation or Map below for exact location

Kit Up and Briefing (30 mins)

Equipment distribution & fitting, Carrying Canoes to waterside, Saftey Brief. This activity is run on locaton. Alike many great adventures to make the most of time and location. There are public Toilets where we meet.

Canoe Familiarisation and Instruction for the Journey (up to 15 mins)

Some profesional instruction of keeping your balance, how to haddle, steer and keep you Canoe going in a straight line

Canoe Tour along Llangollen Canal to incorporate paddling over the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (approx 2 hours)

This tour will be adapted to the groups wants and needs and will involve a jourey Up and down the Canal including the Aqueduct at least Twice should you want to paddle over it.

Approx 1215 or 1615 Return to Trevor Basin

All good advetures have to end at some point, we will dismount where we got on, return equipment back to the Trailer and share photos with you before saying good bye.

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Llangollen Wharf is one of the longest-established visitor attractions in the North Wales market town of Llangollen, with visitors enjoying trips for over 100 years .

About Llangollen Wharf

Llangollen Wharf is one of the longest-established visitor attractions in the North Wales market town of Llangollen, with visitors enjoying trips for over 100 years. 

From the Wharf you can embark on either a horse drawn boat trip along the feeder for the main canal, or a motorised aqueduct boat trip that takes you across the famous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct built by Thomas Telford. Both of these boat trips take in the magical sights and sounds of this beautiful World Heritage Site. Group rates apply on all trips for larger groups, whilst lunches and cream teas can be pre-ordered for the aqueduct trips and takeaway food for the Horse Boat Trips. Mulled Wine Special trips operate on the motor boat over the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct at weekends in November and December. Other Special Trips are available throughout the year.

We also have two purpose-built 32' self-steer day hire boats for groups of up to 10 people. This is an ideal way to take a leisurely cruise along the Llangollen Canal and across the unforgettable Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Perfect for families, groups of friends and corporate teams alike, a private boat for the day is a totally unique experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you allow dogs on your trips?

We allow dogs on our horse drawn boat trips and on our self-drive day hire boats but not on the motorised aqueduct cruise.

Do you have parking at the Wharf?

We only have a pick up and drop off point at the Wharf but it is only a 5 minute walk from any of the car parks in Llangollen town.

What times are the Aqueduct Cruises?

We run 2 trips per day. The first departs Llangollen Wharf at 11.45am and takes 2 hours to cross the Aqueduct where a coach is waiting to bring the passengers back to Llangollen town centre. For the second trip you need to check in at Llangollen Wharf by 1.30pm where you will be directed to the coach pick up point which will take you to the boat for your cruise back into Llangollen Wharf.

Why is there no availability for a self-drive boat on your booking site?

When you book a self-drive boat on our website enter 1 when asked how many are in your party. The booking is per boat not per person. The maximum allowed on the boat is 10 people and this includes babies. Please note you will need a £70 cash damage deposit on the day of hire.

Do you have toilets on the boat?

The motor boat which does the Aqueduct Trips does have a toilet. The Horse Drawn trips boats do not have toilet facilities. There are toilets with disabled access at the Wharf. The Day Hire Boats have a toilet.

Is there disabled access?

There is disabled access to the Tea Room and toilets at the Wharf. We can load wheelchairs onto the Horse Boats but you should note that we cannot off load them at the Chain Bridge on the 2 hour Horse Drawn Boat trip. We are not able to take Wheelchairs on the Aqueduct Trip although people with some mobility may be able to board and we can carry folded wheelchairs. There is a bus transfer so the usual criteria we use it that if the individual can get on a bus then they will be able to get on the boat. If unsure please contact us to discuss.

Can we get food on the boats?

There are no catering facilities on the Horse Boats. Take Away food and drinks are available from the Tea Room. The motor boat has a licenced bar and tea, coffee, soft drinks and light refreshments are available on board. We can provide lunches on the 11.45 trip which need to be pre-ordered on the day. Please order at least half an hour before your trip to allow us to prepare the food in the Tea Room. We can also provide Welsh Cream Teas on the afternoon trip. Ordering in advance is recommended.

Book online for this unique experience!

Choose from 45-minute and 2-hour horse drawn boat rides and enjoy everything this World Heritage Site has to offer from the perfect vantage point.

The Tea Room and Gift Shop at Llangollen Wharf is located in the old canal warehouse. All of our food is prepared and cooked on the premises, promising absolute freshness. 

We serve breakfast and a variety of light lunches throughout the day.  Welsh Cream Teas are always available with our own homemade scones and bara brith, complemented by jam and clotted cream. We also do afternoon Teas with a selection of sandwiches, tray bakes and home made cakes. Our homemade cakes are our speciality, which are all baked and iced daily in our kitchen. A selection of herb and fruit teas are available in addition to hot chocolate and freshly ground coffee. 

The Tea Room will be open from 9.30am to 4.30pm daily for Takeaway Tea, Coffee. Sandwiches,  Breakfast Baps, and  Ice Creams,.  We can also provide  tray bakes, panninis  and cakes to takeaway. 

In addition we can provide Welsh Cream Teas  and Afternoon Teas in a Box to take away.  These can be ordered in advance on 01978 860702  or prepared while you wait.

We have completed a Covid 19 risk assessment and  have all the recommended hygiene rules in place.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal World Heritage site

Llangollen Tour

❮ All Tours

Introduction

Llangollen developed around the bridge over the River Dee from the 1300s onwards. Abundant water from the River Dee powered corn mills and later fulling mills as the town grew and prospered. Most of the farms in the hills were sheep farms and both spinning and weaving were important in the area.

The Llangollen Canal boosted trade, bringing in coal to fire the limekilns in the Valley and providing cheaper, more reliable transport for slate and limestone quarried from the hills above. It also provided another reliable water source to power mills.

The A5 Holyhead Road, built in the 1820s to speed the journey from London to Dublin, and later the railway brought more trade and tourism to Llangollen and the Dee Valley.

Click on any Point of Interest marker to view the description

The Corn Mill

Listen to…

…the sound of cyclists on the towpath

1. St Collen’s Church

Llangollen takes its name from the church founded by Saint Collen around 600AD. Collen was a champion of Christianity and is said to have come here after murdering a local man-eating giantess who guarded the nearby Horseshoe Pass. A well at the top of the Pass is believed to be the natural spring where Collen washed his bloody hands and sword.

St Collen’s Church © Jo Danson

The present church dates from the 1200s, replacing an earlier wooden church. A wooden tower was added in 1500 but later replaced by the stone tower.

Inside the church is a spectacular carved oak ceiling that dates from 1530 and is amongst the greatest medieval treasures in Denbighshire. An ancient oak chest has three keyholes so that all three church wardens had to be present when it was opened!

The church was changed from a double nave form into a more conventional three aisled church in the mid-1860s.

Inside the church there is a plaque donated by Dr Mary Gordon who wrote a book about the Ladies of Llangollen in the mid 1930s. Strangely the figures were not modelled on the ladies, but on Mary Gordon and her sculptress Violet Labouchere. Immediately outside the church is a triangular memorial to the Ladies and their maid Mary Carryl.

St Collen painting by Edward Pugh © National Museum Wales

Ladies of Llangollen Memorial © Jo Danson

2. Llangollen Bridge

Llangollen Bridge is one of the seven wonders of Wales as described in the rhyme

Llangollen Bridge © Jo Danson

A bridge was recorded as early as 1284, but the existing bridge is said to have been constructed by John Trevor, Bishop of St Asaph in the 1500s. A major rebuilding of the bridge took place in 1656 at a cost of £250, indicating a great deal of work was required. Fragments of decorated slabs from Valle Crucis Abbey were found, so it seems likely that the abbey must have been used as a quarry during the 1656 alterations.

An extra arch, complete with a round castellated tower was added in 1863 to allow the railway into town. The roadway had to be raised and the parapets were rebuilt to achieve the necessary height. There was a café in the tower to serve the many visitors to the town.

The bridge was only 8 feet wide and so by 1873 it could not cope with the increase in traffic as industry prospered. It was decided to double its width, faithfully reproducing the original design, with all the necessary work done on the side next to the new station.

The castellated tower was demolished by 1940 to help improve the road layout but traffic problems continued and the bridge was widened again in the late 1960s on the same upstream side.

Today the V shaped stonework that helps to divert the river around the bridge piers also provides a safe space on the bridge to watch the river and the daring kayakers descending the challenging rapids. The scene on the river would have been very different in the late 1800s when fishermen used coracles to fish for salmon.

© Heather Williams

© Crown copyright: RCAHMW

Image from the collections of the National Monuments Record of Wales © Thomas Lloyd Collection

Traditional coracle 1890s © Llangollen Museum

© Crown copyright RCAHMW

3. Hand Hotel, Bridge Street

The Hand Hotel was one of the most important coaching inns in Llangollen when Bridge Street was the main road through town before the A5 was built. The hotel takes its name from the red or bloody hand which formed the crest of the Myddelton family of Chirk Castle.

It was much favoured by travellers who made an overnight stay here on their coach journey from London to Dublin. It had a reputation for luxury accommodation with a nearby building provided rooms for the servants accompanying wealthy visitors.

Hand Hotel 1860s © Llangollen Museum

From 1752 the Hand was kept by Thomas Edwards. He became friendly with Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby, the ‘Ladies of Llangollen’, no doubt because many of their famous visitors stayed at the Hand. In the 1780s he begged them to use his pew in the church!

Jos Phillips owned the Hand Hotel in 1830 when Princess Victoria stopped in Llangollen with her mother and apparently his young daughter presented the Princess with a doll dressed in full Welsh costume.

Famous visitors to the Hand include Charles Darwin who stayed here in 1831 at the start of a geological tour of North Wales and the poet Robert Browning who stayed here for ten weeks in 1886 with frequent visits to his friends Sir Theodore and Lady Helena Martin at nearby Llantysilio.

By the 1920s the hotel had 60 bedrooms, a drawing room, dining room, billiards room, a smoking room and a writing room together with a covered garage with space for 30 cars.

Today the Hand Hotel continues to welcome guests, although some of the public rooms have changed their functions to reflect modern times and visitors can relax watching the river from the hotel gardens.

© Llangollen Museum

4. The Royal Hotel, Bridge Street

The Royal Hotel overlooking the River Dee dates back to the mid 1750s when it was called The King’s Head and was an important coaching inn. It was first rebuilt and enlarged in 1815, with further alterations later as more tourists came to Llangollen.

The hotel used to employ harpists to play Welsh music here. In 1829 the German composer Felix Mendelssohn stayed at the hotel and was not impressed. He wrote ‘A harpist sits in the hall of every reputable tavern incessantly playing so-called folk melodies – dreadful, vulgar, out of tune trash… A fellow in the hall is playing, it’s making me so angry I can’t go on!’

W T Simpson had a different view! In his book he says ‘the ale brewed in Llangollen is in great and deserved repute all over the kingdom’ and goes on to say that that the excellent accommodation at the Hand and the King’s Head were unsurpassed. Post carriages and horses were kept at both and the harp resounded in their halls.

Taking advantage of Princess Victoria’s journey through the town, the hotel changed its name to the Royal Hotel in the mid-1800s although there are conflicting reports as to where the horses were changed!

© Crown copyright RCAHMW

Royal Hotel early 1900s © Llangollen Museum

Royal Hotel 1900 © Llangollen Museum

5. Castle Square, Castle Street

Castle Street has some fine buildings dating from the 1860s as the town was developing into an important shopping centre.

The Town Hall was built by Morris Roberts in 1867. Shoppers originally entered through open arches to where the market was held. Shortly afterwards the market area was divided up into separate shops which is how it appears today.

Castle Square 1920 © Llangollen Museum

The area opposite the Royal Hotel was called ‘Ham and Egg Square’ in the 1800s as residents in the cottages used to cook quick and easy meals, usually ham and eggs, for travellers on the London to Holyhead road as well as for rail passengers.

Later it was known as Castle Square with businesses including a draper, a milliner and a farmers’ supply store.

Nearby is the former Welsh Baptist Chapel which was built at the same time. It was designed to hold a congregation of 400 but by 1982 the chapel was no longer needed. The building was restored and in 2003 it was opened by the great Welsh artist Kyffin Williams. Now called Y Capel, it houses a Tourist Information Centre, an exhibition space and a library on the upper floor.

John Brown Provisions 1920 © Llangollen Museum

6. Corn Mill and Victoria Promenade

Corn was ground in the mill from the 1200s when it was founded by the Cistercian monks of Valle Crucis Abbey and continued until 1895. After this time it was still used to produce animal feed until it closed in 1974.

Much of the original water-powered machinery was removed but a water wheel has been preserved and can be seen through glass floors in the restaurant.

The beautiful riverside walk along the River Dee starts by the Corn Mill. The scenic river is over 70 miles long and flows from its source beyond Lake Bala through Llangollen and Chester to Liverpool Bay. The river is nationally important and is home to Atlantic salmon, freshwater pearl mussels and otters.

The walk was originally called Ceryg y Llan and was thought to be one of the finest riverside walks in the United Kingdom. It was re-named Victoria Promenade to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of the Queen Victoria in 1897 – the people of Llangollen fondly remembering another visit of Victoria to the Llangollen area in 1889. The walk became very popular with locals and visitors alike, with groups of people promenading on summer Sundays dressed in their best clothes.

The promenade leads to the Riverside Park. The land was purchased from a fairground operator James Cook in 1920 and opened as a park in 1921 with further improvements carried out in 1922.

William Jones, Corn Mill owner, 1887 © Llangollen Museum

Corn Mill 1945 © Llangollen Museum

Victoria Promenade 1920 © Llangollen Museum

© Jo Danson

7. Plas Newydd

Plas Newydd was the home of the ‘Ladies of Llangollen’ in the late 1700s. Lady Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby had run away from Ireland and settled here, describing Llangollen to be ‘the most beautifullest country in the world’.

© Denbigshire County Council

Ladies of Llangollen – Champions of the Picturesque

They set up home in a cottage and renamed it Plas Newydd. They spent their time writing, reading, sketching and embroidering, as well as transforming the house and gardens. They added a porch in 1814 and held a ‘porch warming’ party for selected friends!

Cows grazed in the meadow in front of the house. The lower woodland garden where the Cyflymen stream runs was enhanced with rustic bridges, seats and a grotto, said to have come from Valle Crucis along with a font.

North Wales was becoming popular with tourists at that time and the Ladies together with their house and gardens became quite an attraction. The Ladies had a distinctive style, dressed in long dark coats with white ornamental neck cloths and top hats. Many famous people visited them including the Duke of Wellington, Lord Byron, Sir Walter Scott and William Wordsworth. After his visit Wordsworth sent the ladies a poem composed in the grounds but Ladies were not amused by the house being referred to as a ‘low roofed cot’ and thought they could write better poetry themselves! Anne Lister of Gentleman Jack fame was another visitor.

After the deaths of Lady Eleanor Butler in 1829 and Miss Sarah Ponsonby two years later, the house and contents were sold in an auction lasting seven days.

Visitors can enjoy the beautiful house and gardens today.

© Denbigshire County Council

Plas Newydd 1813 Thomas Woolnoth © By permission of The National Library of Wales

Plas Newydd 1840 W Walton © By permission of The National Library of Wales

Plas Newydd 1875 John Thomas © By permission of The National Library of Wales

8. Llangollen Museum

Llangollen Museum is packed with many fascinating objects telling the history of Llangollen and the surrounding area. It has an impressive collection of over 1500 objects and more than 7000 photographs and documents, mostly donated by the local community. A wide variety of talks, events and exhibitions are organised during the year.

The striking replica of the Eliseg’s Pillar is a focal point of the museum. The weather worn pillar, which can be seen a short distance from Llangollen, dates back to AD 800s and originally had the names of the rulers of Powys on it. The pillar is all that remains of the original cross which gives its name to Valle Crucis, the Cistercian abbey nearby. You can find out more by listening to the fully bi-lingual animatronic monk talking about life in medieval times.

The Museum has a chain link from Chain Bridge, built in 1817.

Visit the Museum website for more information.

9. Llangollen Station and Railway

The Vale of Llangollen railway was approved and completed by the railway engineer Sir Henry Robertson and opened for passengers in 1862. Work started on the extension to Corwen the following year and opened in 1865.

An extension to Barmouth was built by the Cambrian Railway, which became part of the Great Western Railway in 1923.

The station still has the distinctive chocolate and cream colours of the company. Further alterations and extensions were carried out at the station in 1898 when the track was doubled in width and new facilities provided including longer platforms, waiting shelters, a new signal box and a footbridge.

Flood damage closed the line between Llangollen and Bala in 1964. The following year it closed permanently following the Beeching Report on how to make the railways viable and the last British Railways train steamed into the station in 1968.

Thankfully railway enthusiasts rallied round and by September 1975 an open day saw 60 feet of track laid and the heritage Llangollen Railway line was born. As the number of volunteers grew, so did the line that was extended to Carrog in 1996 and again to Corwen East on the edge of the town in 2015, making a total length of 10 miles.

Thomas the Tank Engine, The Flying Scotsman and the Mallard all regularly make an appearance and while thousands of tourists enjoy travelling on the heritage railway many more enjoy watching it up and down the line.

Bridge & Railway Station John Thomas 1875 © By permission of The National Library of Wales

Flying Scotsman 1994 © Neil Kennedy

Thomas the Tank 2016 © Hywel Williams

10. Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod

Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod started as a peace initiative to bring war weary countries of Europe together in the beautiful Dee Valley. The first Eisteddfod was held in July 1947, attended by 40 overseas groups representing 14 different countries.

The first group of Germans to attend the Eisteddfod was the Luebeck Mixed Choir in July 1949. The compere was Hywel Roberts whose brother had been killed in the war. The audience were electrified to hear him greet the choir as ‘our friends from West Germany’. The Eisteddfod soon gained its reputation as ‘Where Wales meets the World’.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip came to the Eisteddfod in July 1953, shortly after the Coronation. The celebrated Welsh poet Dylan Thomas also attended and his impressions of the town were published the following year in ‘Quite early one morning’. It paints a wonderful description of the town with ‘the streets painted with tunes’ and ‘All day the song and dancing in this transformed valley, this green cup of countries in the country of Wales, goes on until the sun goes in’.

The Eisteddfod moved to its present location in 1958 with an enormous marquee erected for the event each year. As the competition grew, better facilities were needed and the Queen re-visited the Eisteddfod in 1992 to open the new pavilion.

During the Eisteddfod singers, dancers and musicians from around the world take part in over 20 high quality competitions, followed each evening by concerts where competitors sometimes share the stage with professional artists. Over 5000 people from around 50 countries perform to audiences of more than 50,000 over the six days of the event. There is also a parade through the town with competitors in their brightly coloured costumes.

Famous performers include Luciano Pavarotti, who first competed in 1955 with a choir from his home town Modena, flautist James Galway, violinist Nigel Kennedy, baritone Bryn Terfel and mezzo-soprano Katherine Jenkins.

Find out more about Llangollen International Music Eisteddfod here

Queen Elizabeth 1953 © Llangollen Museum