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The Ultimate Baja, Mexico, Travel Guide

Mexico’s 775-mile-long Baja Peninsula is a magnet for travelers in search of their own arid slice of adventure paradise. From surfing to mountain biking to beach lounging, here’s how to get off the beaten path and do it right.

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More than 75 percent of Baja’s 3.3 million residents live in the northern cities of Tijuana and Ensenada . Much of the rest of the 55,366-square-mile peninsula—surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west coast and the Gulf of California on the east coast—is wide-open space, an increasing amount of which is becoming preserved as federal lands, private reserves, and community projects. In total there are more than 14 million acres of protected land and water, including seven national parks, like Sierra de San Pedro Mártir in northern Baja, where Picacho del Diablo, the peninsula’s highest peak, rises to 10,154 feet. The rocky hike to the top is rewarded with views of the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez. Mountain bikers can get in on ocean views, too, with an exponentially growing network of trails in the mountains surrounding La Paz, Todos Santos, and Los Cabos.

But Baja’s most celebrated feature is its 2,038 miles of jagged coastline , which courts surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, sailors, scuba divers, snorkelers, paddlers, and anglers. Jacques Cousteau famously coined the Sea of Cortez, home to 800 varieties of fish, “the world’s aquarium.” Many of those species are protected in reserves like 27-square-mile Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park on the southern tip of Baja. On the Pacific side, the new, nearly three-million-acre Baja California Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve   is a protective sanctuary for gray whales and sea turtles.

My first experience in Baja started in Tijuana with a fish-bowl sized margarita. It was 1988, and the city was festive and gritty. Its complexity intrigued me. A decade later, I hopped a flight to the pastel-hued 17th-century mission village of Loreto to find it full of Hawaiian-shirt-clad fishermen en route to compete in a tournament for dorado, marlin, and sailfish in the Sea of Cortez. I headed south to the solitude of a nine-room eco-resort (which has since closed) on a searing white-sand beach looking out on the mysterious, cacti-studded Isla Danzante.

Three years ago, my boyfriend and I rented a car to explore the southern tip of the peninsula, mountain-biking the foothills above Los Barriles, snorkeling with sea lions off Isla Espí‪ritu Santo, and eating whole grilled red snapper while sipping jalapeño margaritas at an under-the-radar restaurant on the edge of La Paz’s marina. Along the way, we found a wind-carved canyon pierced by sunlight above the Sea of Cortez and long stretches of empty Pacific white sand.

A few months ago we returned, going deeper into the peninsula, exploring a network of new mountain-bike trails, paddling the newly protected waters of the Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve, and meeting with a young entrepreneur, Adolfo de la Peña, in the old mining community of San Antonio, where he is trying to resurrect his historic community. As quickly as things are changing in Baja, some of the best things remain the same, like that La Paz restaurant, where we returned to eat grilled red snapper. The fish was as exquisitely fresh as we remembered it.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Baja

Baja California

Prepare for warm days and cold water: The Baja sun is hot, but the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean can be cold, so pack protective Buffs, hats, UPF 50, and quick-drying cover-ups. Also bring a solid pair of shoes beyond flip-flops—cactus spines are omnipresent, from the beaches to the mountain-bike trails.

Get supplemental car insurance: If you plan to drive your car into Baja, make sure it’s in prime working order. Pending how remote you plan to get, you may not be able to find replacements parts if needed. For an idea of spare parts to bring along, visit All About Baja’s  Vehicle Preparation Checklist . And be sure to buy a Mexican car-insurance policy as U.S. plans don’t work south of the border. Get a quote from  Lewis and Lewis , a company that has been selling Mexican auto insurance since 1983, from one-day to one-year policies.

Or rent a car: If you aren’t driving down yourself, unless you plan to never leave a resort, you’ll want a car to explore. Note that the minimum age for car rental is 25 years old, but some companies accept drivers 21 and older with a valid driver’s license from another country and add a surcharge to the rental fee. American car-rental agencies like Hertz and Thrifty are ubiquitous at the Los Cabos airport—and be sure to buy the Mexican rental insurance. According to Mexican law, uninsured drivers can be arrested and held for liable damages.

Drive only during the day: For three key reasons: there are wandering cows, the roads are narrow with no shoulders, and in the evening, there are a lot more big-rig cargo trucks.

Find a less expensive flight across the border: Fly to San Diego, then take a 30-minute shuttle, Uber, or taxi to the  Cross Border Xpress  (CBX) facilities, a 390-foot-long pedestrian skybridge that crosses from California into Mexico and goes directly to Tijuana International Airport. If you use the CBX service (from $16 one way, and an additional $12 one way if you use the CBX shuttle), there’s no need to enter Tijuana airport’s main departure lounge. You’ll pass through the CBX’s security and go directly to your gate. On a good day, it’s possible to reach your gate in about twenty minutes (though you should always allow for extra time pending high volume travel days and other factors). Domestic Mexican airline  Volaris offers direct flights to Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos, and Calafia Airlines has direct flights to Loreto and La Paz.

Check travel advisories for the region: The Baja Peninsula is safer than most of mainland Mexico, but the situation is fluid, so keep an eye on U.S. State Department travel advisories.

Do your camping homework: Unlike the U.S., camping is not strictly regulated in Baja, which has its pros and cons. You can find yourself alone on a stretch of golden sand savoring the sunset of a lifetime, but there are also fewer amenities, like toilets and trash receptacles. The best places to camp are near small coastal towns and away from mega resort corridors, like Los Cabos. Read online forums and feel out the vibe of the place before staking the tent.

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Baja?

Baja California

January to March is prime whale-watching season and the height of tourist visits. Summer is the best time to surf and brings temperatures that can soar into the nineties. Spring (May and June) and fall (October and November) have more moderate temperatures—the seventies to eighties—and fewer crowds, but beware that the Pacific Ocean hurricane season runs mid-May through November. In the fall of 2019, the area around La Ventana was deluged with rain, which made the desert lush and green but also left roads impassable in some places. The calmest water for sea kayakers can be had from October through early December, the best time for kiteboarders and windsurfers is mid-October to early April, and anglers can try their luck year-round, depending on what they want to catch.

Where to Go in Baja

Baja California

We’ve separated the peninsula into four general regions and chosen the best adventures and activities to do in each, from drinking world-class wine in Baja Norte, the official designation of the northern half of the state, to surfing off Los Cabos, at the southernmost tip. Driving the entire 775-mile-long peninsula, as many Americans do annually with their dogs, tents, mountain bikes , surfboards , and SUPs , takes a solid week.

Baja Norte 

Baja California

For a great starter Baja road trip, complete with surfing, hiking, canyoneering, kayaking, and an opportunity to redefine your notion of what constitutes Mexican food, try this 346-mile loop, which starts and ends in Tijuana, going through Valle de Guadalupe and its vineyards, the coastal city of Ensenada, and the little-known Constitution of 1857 National Park along the way. Add stuffing yourself with the world’s most authentic fish tacos, and you’ve got way more fun than you can fit into a five-day outing, the ideal amount of time for an introduction to this area. Or simply choose a couple of the destinations or adventures below.

Day 1: Cross the border from San Diego into Tijuana

Tijuana is experiencing a cultural renaissance, with cutting-edge architecture, colorful murals, and a spicy food scene. Enter into Mexico at Mercado Hidalgo, a plaza flapping with Mexican flags and brimming with piñatas, sombreros, and sweet dulces . Stop for lunch at  Telefónica Gastro Park , a former vacant lot turned food-truck haven where creative eats like octopus-and-corn-fungus tacos go well with smoky cucumber margaritas. In the afternoon, meander the mural-and-graffiti-filled pasajes , or artistic corridors, of El Centro. Head to Border Psycho Brewery for a smooth cream ale, then on to 52 Kool for an explosion of traditional central-Mexico flavors and classic Baja ingredients, like seafood, quail, and organic chicken.

Day 2: Head east to Tecate and then on to Valle de Guadalupe

From Tijuana, head east on Highway 2D for 36 miles to Tecate. Stop at Restaurante Amores  in Tecate, where the husband-wife owner-chefs have impressive culinary pedigrees. Order the chile- and garlic-infused tortilla soup, garnished with octopus. From Tecate, turn south on Mexico 3, and drive 46 miles to Valle de Guadalupe. The award-winning wines in this region are the handiwork of a little-known sect of Russian Christians who planted grapes when they immigrated here in 1905. In the past decade, the valley has become Mexico’s answer to Napa, with chic tasting rooms and sleek hotels with infinity pools. At Fauna , a relaxed restaurant within the exquisite hotel Bruma , local David Castro Hussong has created an organic oasis on 200 acres of vineyards, where the stark elegance enhances the surrounding arid landscape.

Day 3: Surf in Ensenada

A tranquilo fishing port 30 miles south of Valle de Guadalupe, the surf here stretches north and south of the city, with serious waves at beaches like La Fonda, El Pico, and Stacks. Gentler breaks are farther south, at Playa Hermosa. Stop in at  Playa Hermosa Surf and Skate Shop for rentals, lessons, or to watch owner Alfredo Jaro and his crew shape boards. About 45 minutes south of the city, you’ll find La Bufadora , the second-largest marine geyser in the world. It’s a well-touristed spot, but it’s awe-inspiring to watch the salt water blow and is also a good way to scout the incredible coasteering options available alongside the rugged Pacific. Ensenada-based X Tour  offers canyoning, rappelling, hiking, kayaking, or a combination of all four in one day.

Day 4: Hike and seek wildlife in Constitution 1857 National Park

The Sierra de Juarez is 60 miles east of Ensenada on Mexico 3. An oasis for mule deer, bighorn sheep, cougars, coyotes, bobcats, and soaring falcons, the 12,380-acre forested park sits at about 5,000 feet and boasts high-alpine Hanson Lake. Hike Jeffrey Route, a two-mile loop from the visitor center. Along the path sits a representation of a Kumeyaay camp, the indigenous people who settled in what is now the southwestern U.S. and Mexico more than 12,000 years ago. Or hike to the top of Hanson Hill, the summit of which is almost 6,000 feet.

Day 5: Head back to Ensenada

Take advantage of the incredible array of fish and shrimp tacos sold at stands on nearly every Ensenada corner. They go well with the locally brewed Aguamala Astillero Imperial IPA. Tijuana is a 70-mile drive north on coast-hugging Mexico 1D.

Where to Stay in Baja Norte 

Baja California

Tijuana:  One Bunk Tijuana , a 14-room boutique hotel in the center of everything, with clean, modern lines, exposed brick walls, and beds so comfortable you can sleep off an all-nighter. Doubles from $55

Valle de Guadalupe: At  Bruma , eight glass-and-wood suites surround a main living room, pool, and deck and are so organically designed that you feel immersed in the surrounding landscape. Doubles from $438

Ensenada: There’s a good array of Airbnbs here, or book an ocean-view room at Torre Lucerna , an updated old-school resort hotel with clean and peaceful rooms. From $131

Camping: There are a few gated campgrounds, like Playa Saldamando, eight miles north of Ensenada. For a more private option, drive south of Ensenada, boot up Google Earth, zoom in, and find dirt tracks that lead to any empty remote coastline, where you can camp as long as you leave no trace.

Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Baja California

On the southern tip of Baja, you’ll find Los Cabos, a collective term for the town of Cabo San Lucas, to the west; the 18th-century mission village of San José del Cabo, to the east; and the 20-mile corridor of sand and rock escarpments in between. Los Cabos deserves its rap as the hub for tequila-slamming, scantily-clad spring breakers, largely because it’s easily accessed by Los Cabos International Airport. But the region still has gorgeous bones, like Cabo El Arco, the craggy rock arch that delineates where the Pacific ends and the Sea of Cortez begins, and, on the far east end of San José del Cabo, Estuary Beach, which is backed by a freshwater lagoon that harbors more than 350 species of vegetation and wildlife. In between are resorts for every budget, 11 major surf breaks, ample opportunities to watch whales or deep-sea fish for wahoo, marlin, and tuna, and culinary oases, like  Flora Farms , a 25-acre organic working farm and an open-air restaurant in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna. For those who prefer more solitude with their sand and waves, the laid-back village of Todos Santos is about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Mexico 19. Beware: many beaches in Los Cabos are often closed to swimming due to deep drop-offs near the shoreline that create dangerous riptides and currents, so heed the signs. The most swimmable spots are Medano Beach, in the heart of Cabo San Lucas; Chileno Beach, in the luxury hotel zone northeast of Cabo San Lucas (and it has lifeguards on duty); and Playa Acapulquito, or Old Man’s Beach, near San José del Cabo.

What to Do in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Baja California

Find surf action for everyone in Los Cabos: From the hard-charging surfer to the adventurous family of five that wants the ultimate multisport ocean vacation, there’s something for everyone in Los Cabos. The string of breaks around Playa Costa Azul is the center of Los Cabos surf culture. Zippers, the rocky right-point break close to the beach, is home to the Los Cabos Open of Surf in June and has been part of the women’s and junior World Surf League pro tours for the past few years, while Old Man’s Beach and Pescadito are favorites for longboarders and beginners.  Costa Azul Surf School  offers rentals, lessons, and expert guides who lead excursions to lesser known breaks.

See a humpback whale breach: It’s one of the most awe-inspiring phenomena in the animal kingdom. Whales begin migrating south to the Los Cabos region in the middle of November, birth their calves in late December and January, nurse them through March and April, then begin their migration north. During this generous six-month window, take a two-and-a-half-hour Zodiac tour with  Whale Watch Cabo (from $89). It’s led by a marine biologist and is the most exciting way to see the whales as safely for them—and for you—as possible.

Go deep-sea fishing: Los Cabos has been hit hard with the illegal harvesting of billfish, so it’s imperative that you do your research on the most ethical charter company before signing up for a day of deep-sea fishing. One of the most long-standing is  Pisces Sportfishing , which started operating in La Paz in 1978 and eventually migrated south to Los Cabos. In 1995, it was honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award for Conservation by the International Game Fish Association. Since then several of its captains have been recognized with the Billfish Foundation Award for most striped marlin released worldwide. The company charters everything from 22-foot skiffs to mega yachts (from $112).

Lose the crowds in Todos Santos: This beautifully preserved 18th-century mission village an hour north of Los Cabos isn’t exactly a secret, but it’s still a nice big resort antidote, with artisan shops, boutique hotels, and Hotel California , mistakenly believed to be the inspiration for the famous 1976 Eagles song. Mountain bikers will want to stop in at Over the Edge , a full-service bike shop that rents current models and full-suspension mountain bikes and can guide riders or point them in the direction of the area’s 30 miles of hand-built trails that roll over dunes and into the foothills and show off panoramic Pacific views.

While Todos Santos is near the Pacific, it’s not actually on the Pacific. Drive west of town, and almost any road will dead-end at a dune from which you can walk the seemingly endless stretch of golden sand known as La Cachora beach. Its water is so rough that surfers gravitate five miles north of town to La Pastora, a sandy beach with fun right breaks. You’ll need four-wheel drive to get there, but it’s worth it, especially since it’s also home to the  Green Room restaurant, named for the ephemeral feel and color on the inside of a wave. The restaurant’s mezcal margaritas and smoked tuna pâté, served right on the beach, are the perfect way to wind down a busy day.

South of Todos Santos is Pescadero, a reef break close to shore, and Cerritos, a sandy-bottom beach break with the most consistent surf in Baja Sur. Los Cerritos Surf Shop rents boards at the beach from sunrise to sunset.  Mario Surf School and  Pescadero Surf Shop , in the small hamlet of El Pescadero, also offer surfboard rentals, in addition to lessons and excursions (including kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding). Fuel up for the morning with a cup or two of organic, honey-processed java and a veggie frittata with spicy Mexican salsa from  Baja Beans , an outdoor café nestled among mango trees.

Three species of endangered sea turtles nest on the beaches of Todos Santos from October through March: the olive ridley, black, and critically endangered leatherback. Help them out by volunteering with  La Sirena Eco Adventures , a nonprofit that needs people to care for hatchlings, relocate nests, clean up the beach, and guard the turtle sanctuary.

Where to Stay in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Baja California

Airbnb and VRBOs are a ubiquitous option Los Cabos—Todos Santos alone offers more than 200 VRBO listings and endless Airbnb rentals, from canvas tents to palatial beachfront haciendas.

Todos Santos:  At the end of a dirt road on isolated Punta Lobos beach, 3.5 miles south of town, the newly opened, 32-room Hotel San Cristóbal  is a throwback to simpler times, where guests gather around a bonfire at night to sip cervezas. The on-site restaurant serves locally harvested bounty, from fish caught earlier in the day to herbs and greens pulled from nearby fields. From $270

Or check out  La Sirena Eco Adventures , which offers basic, clean eco-casitas, some with fully equipped kitchens, for their volunteers. From $60

Los Cabos:  Los Milagros , a 12-room boutique hotel, is a surprisingly inexpensive and peaceful oasis in the heart of Cabo. It was founded by a cyclist who rode his bike the length of the Baja Peninsula and loved Los Cabos so much that he founded the property in 1996. The walled courtyard and trellised bougainvillea are welcome respites from the action outside. From $70

Another great option is the  Montage Los Cabos , the first Montage property to open outside the U.S. This luxurious and intimate new resort fronts a sandy crescent beach on Santa Maria Bay, which protects swimmers and snorkelers from the riptides and waves. There’s a 40,000-square-foot spa, but lounging by the exquisite infinity pool is a meditation unto itself. From $825

The East Cape and La Paz

Baja California

Long the haunt of sea-loving luminaries like John Steinbeck and Jacques Cousteau, Baja’s Sea of Cortez on the east coast is a marine biologist’s dream. It’s also a wind machine from mid-November to early March for kiteboarders and windsurfers. The less traveled East Cape stretches from the marina of San José del Cabo some 90 miles north through Cabo Pulmo National Park to the gentrifying coastal villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana. Fifty miles farther north is La Paz; this city of 240,000 residents, with its hopping malecón, or seaside promenade, is the jumping-off point for the 244 protected World Heritage site islands, the largest of which is Isla Espíritu Santo. Drive 221 miles farther north and you’ll find the 17th-century mission village of Loreto, the original point from which Jesuit priests set out to evangelize the peninsula, and San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter sanctuary of the eastern Pacific gray whale. The best way to access this part of the peninsula is to fly to San Diego, cross the border to the Tijuana airport, and book a flight directly to La Paz on a regional airline. The other option is to fly into Los Cabos International Airport and rent a car. Reliable shuttles like Ecobajatours make multiple trips between the Los Cabos airport and La Paz daily.

What to Do in the East Cape and La Paz

Baja California

Snorkeling and scuba diving at Cabo Pulmo National Marine Reserve: In the 1990s, local fishermen stopped commercial fishing to let the waters and reefs regenerate. Since then, the reefs have rebounded, biodiversity has increased more than fourfold, and every formerly endangered major species has rebounded. Experience the comeback by snorkeling with Cabo Pulmo Sport Center , owned by the descendents of Jesus Castro Fiol, a pearl diver who was born here in 1897 and was instrumental in creating the national marine reserve. The center’s two-and-a-half-hour tour (from $55) explores coral gardens and the sea life that lives in them. Go deeper with  Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort , whose expert instructors offer diving at 14 sites, like the 45-foot deep  El Vencedor  wreck, and possible encounters with tiger and bull sharks at the coral reef La Esperanza (from $139).

Kiteboarding and windsurfing at Los Barriles and La Ventana: November through March, it’s not uncommon for “ El Norte ” to howl down the coastline at almost 30 miles per hour, which is why the fishing villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana, 50 miles farther north, come alive with wind fanatics in the winter months. Based in the beachside  Hotel Playa del Sol (from $140),  Vela Baja is a one-stop shop for kiteboarding, windsurfing, stand-up paddling, freediving, mountain biking, and, now, foiling. The laid-back little enclave offers special foiling clinics from world-champion pros like Daniela Moroz, updated equipment rental, and a community of like-minded souls. La Ventana has a long beach with a natural arc that, thanks to the wind direction, ensures even beginners will eventually wash ashore. The hotel, restaurant, and surf school  Baja Joe’s is situated in the heart of the beach, which means instantaneous action when the wind blows. It  offers International Kiteboarding Association –certified instruction for all levels, three-day camps, equipment rentals, or storage for surfers who bring their own gear.

Mountain biking at Rancho Cacachilas: Mountain bikers head to the hills at  Rancho Cacachilas , a solar-powered adventure resort that sprawls across 35,000 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Ventana and La Paz. With 24 miles of existing and 43 miles of planned International Mountain Biking Association–sanctioned singletrack on the ranch, the riding is designed for all skill levels and and offers great ocean views. There’s also 37 miles of trails for running and hiking, and the ranch offers sustainability-oriented classes like beekeeping, artisan cheesemaking, seed storage, and water collection.

Sea kayaking and snorkeling: La Paz has a three-mile-long seaside promenade that makes for fun people watching during a sunset stroll after dinner at  La Costa , a low-key seafood restaurant tucked into the marina with tables in the sand. Spend a night in the city, then launch into the Sea of Cortez to kayak, snorkel among sea lions and whale sharks, and stretch out on the sand at one of many empty beaches.  Sea Kayak Adventures offers one-to-ten-day journeys from La Paz up to Loreto and over to the Pacific Ocean’s Magdalena Bay. Trips include everything from kayaking to whale-watching to hiking. To take a deep dive into outdoor leadership and personal communication skills, sign on to one of  NOLS ’s three Baja adult expeditions, an eight-day coed or women-only coastal sailing expedition, or a seven-day women’s sea-kayaking expedition.

Surfing: The waves on   the Sea of Cortez are less consistent than the Pacific. Most breaks require a big south swell or a strong storm. If you hit the timing right, you’ll find a nice, lonely right break at Nine Palms Beach in Santa Elena Bay, about an hour east of San José del Cabo. BYO boards.

Hiking: This region of Baja has a rich human history that dates back at least 10,000 years. The aforementioned Sea Kayak Adventures offers a five-day Cowboys and Cave Paintings journey from Loreto to the Sierra de San Francisco, where guests hike to visit many of the thousands of Unesco World Heritage cave paintings of people, deer, snakes, birds, and even whales. Another great day hike between La Paz and La Ventana that offers an opportunity to interact with locals is the old, partially cobblestoned Camino Real de Santa Ana, the route miners used for 300 years to transport precious metals north to San Diego. Start at the Museo Ruta de Plata  in El Triunfo, then hike roughly five miles along the Camino to the town of San Antonio, where local Adolfo de la Peña, whose father was a miner, has started the the cooperative Las Realeños de San Antonio . You can book an appointment with Adolfo, who will guide you through the town’s mining history, complete with a hike to two nearby mines—one of which is underground—and the best local sites, including the home of Bertholita, who cooks visitors spicy empanadas and queso fresco, and a local art cooperative.

Where to Stay in the East Cape and La Paz

Baja California

Cabo Pulmo:  Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort has various-size villas and bungalows, all of them clean and colorful, some with full kitchens, and most within a few steps of the beach. From $89

La Ventana:  Camping La Ventana has ten campsites and three RV sites for rent just 200 feet away from the beach, hot showers, and a washing machine. From $20

Rancho Cacachilas: Chivato Base Camp , the rustic main lodging area at the ranch, has ten cabin tents in addition to six bunk rooms that sleep two people each, plus outdoor showers, composting toilets, and a central outdoor kitchen and gathering space. Or try Los Pisos, a ranch camp higher in the mountains that offers platform safari-style tents surrounding an outdoor kitchen. From $175 all-inclusive, minimum stay two nights; open October 1 to April 30

La Paz:  Posada Luna Sol , within a few blocks of the promenade, is a delightful jumping-off point for Sea of Cortez adventures, with breakfast by the pool, a third-floor terrace with views to La Paz Bay, clean rooms, and cruiser bike rentals for $10 per day. From $55  

On the other end of the promenade, Seven Crown La Paz Centro Historico is located in the heart of La Paz’s historic district and within steps of chic new restaurants, like Marinera Poke and Seafood (try the gyozas del puerto and the pin-up margarita), and offers free breakfasts at a street-side café next door. From $73

How to Be Conscious in Baja

Baja California

Go local: A common practice in Baja is for gringos to buy up rental properties, fishing charters, and yachts, then use them to provide under-the-table tourist services to other out-of-town “friends” without paying local taxes or using local guides. This depletes residents’ resources. Be sure any U.S-owned entities—from fishing guides to hacienda owners—are doing fair and honest business that benefits the locals by providing training and income and puts money back into the communities. Better yet, look for locally owned businesses and guides, like Adolfo de la Peña in San Antonio.

Speak the language: It’s always respectful to speak the language of the country you’re visiting, so study up on your rusty high school Spanish.

If camping, pack out what you pack in: Garbage collection isn’t always consistent, so keep it with you until you can find a place to properly dispose of it.

Be frugal with your water use: Baja Californians have the country’s   lowest availability of fresh water per inhabitant—785 cubic meters per year—when the Mexican  national average is 4,200, according to data from the National Institute of Statistics, Geography and Information Technology. The lack of water will become a serious issue soon, especially if resort development remains unchecked. Be conscientious of your usage, and choose lodging and outfitters who are as well.

See marine life and other wildlife in an ethical way: Baja is one of the only places in the world guests can get within close proximity to gray whales after they’ve birthed calves in the Sea of Cortez lagoons or humpback whales as they start to migrate north to cooler Pacific waters. The most ethical way to see these giants is with boat operators who give them wide berths and heed local rules, like obeying limits on the numbers of vessels allowed on the water at any given time.

Looped video (seen on the desktop version) by ianmcdonnell/Getty

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More information: WebsiteLocation Map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Vkqx81yycJRokvMS6Address: Blvd Lázaro Cárdenas, Club Rotario 1421, Zona Centro, 22880 Ensenada, B.C.

More information : Website Location Map : https://maps.app.goo.gl/Vkqx81yycJRokvMS6 Address: Blvd Lázaro Cárdenas, Club Rotario 1421, Zona Centro, 22880 Ensenada, B.C.

May 29 (Wednesday) - June 2 (Sunday) (GMT-07:00)

Centro Cultural Riviera de Ensenada

01 jun All Day Festival Día Mundial del Medio Ambiente Festival

Festival Día Mundial del Medio Ambiente

More information: WebsiteLocation Map: https://maps.app.goo.gl/GbMyR7DGMHG7h5pF9Address: Avenida Cuchumá 1602, Lomitas del Cuchumá Tecate, Baja California, 21447

More information : Website Location Map : https://maps.app.goo.gl/GbMyR7DGMHG7h5pF9 Address: Avenida Cuchumá 1602, Lomitas del Cuchumá Tecate, Baja California, 21447

All Day (Saturday) (GMT-07:00)

Parque El Profesor

travel in baja

La Paz Balandra Beach Baja California Sur Mexico vanlife

The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico

With its endless stretch of pristine coastline, infinite camping possibilities, and hidden gems tucked far away from tourist hotspots, Baja may just be the ultimate roadtrip destination for those seeking adventure south of the border. 

Even more than the beaches and the prices, you’ll fall in love with the ‘no bad days’ attitude and easy living that come along with being in Baja, the simple pleasures of eating freshly caught clams right on the sandy beach or paddling out for sunrises that seem to burn only for you. As you’ll soon discover, the peninsula hides incomprehensible magic, best discovered with a loose agenda and your own set of wheels.

This guide contains everything you need to know about road tripping in Baja, including required paperwork for driving across the border, advice for hiring a car, Mexican auto insurance , driving conditions, military checkpoints, road rules, petrol stations & so much more! 

What's in this travel guide

A little intro to Baja, Mexico

The Baja Peninsula, often referred to simply as  Baja , is a 1200km-long, slender promontory of land bordered to the north by California (and a bit of Arizona), to the east by the Gulf of California/Sea of Cortez, and to the west by the Pacific Ocean. 

Map of Baja

Although many people talk about Baja as a single entity (and indeed it was once united as  The Californias , including what is now American California), it’s actually  comprised of 2 different Mexican states: 

  • Baja California (also called Baja Norte)
  • Baja California Sur (abbreviated BCS)

Both Baja states are culturally and ecologically distinct from mainland Mexico in a multitude of ways, and the landscape here is an incredible blend of Arizona mountains (think: the Superstitions ), California deserts (think: Joshua Tree ), and wild, untamed Mexican coastline (unlike anything else). The image of cacti leading right up to the ocean is something you’re unlikely to experience anywhere else in the world.

Bahia Concepcion Baja California Sur Mexico vanlife

Prepare to enjoy:

  • the freshest seafood you’ve ever had, caught by locals on remote stretches of the Baja coast and sold in small roadside taco stands
  • beachfront camping where you can walk from your van or tent right into the ocean in a few strides
  • colourful historical towns with cobbled lanes
  • unique wildlife encounters with everything from whale sharks and friendly grey whales to hatching sea turtles and curious stingrays
  • real magic away from the tourists who don’t leave their resorts in Cabo
  • unlimited snorkelling, diving, kayaking, and swimming opportunities… the list goes on!!

Guadalupe Canyon Oasis Hot Springs Mexicali Baja

Baja roadtrip overview

Outside of only a few tourist hotspots and busy metropolitan centres, the Baja Peninsula is largely undeveloped— a complete lack of public transport means that the best (and often only) way to explore Baja’s wide open beaches, hidden hot springs, and remote coves is on a road trip!

For those who’ve yet to do it, however, the idea of driving in Mexico can be pretty intimidating. I’ll cover heaps more details about all of these topics in the sections below, but let me assure you of a few things up front:

  • Is Baja, Mexico safe? Travelling in Baja is really no more dangerous than travelling anywhere else in North America, and as long as you use common sense and don’t go looking for trouble, you’re unlikely to find it. The crime rate in Baja is incredibly low and, outside of the border cities, suffers from almost none of the political turmoil or drug violence that you’re probably worried about (but truly needn’t be). I’ve spent over a year travelling all around Mexico, almost exclusively in a vehicle, and I often refer to Baja as “Mexico Lite” : there is a long history of American and Canadian retirees coming down here in their RVs and they’ve beautifully paved the way for a prominent “camper culture”, with plenty of English, accessible services, and a general sense of familiarity between locals and gringos.
  • Sure, but is it safe to DRIVE in Baja? Generally speaking, Baja is an incredibly safe place to road-trip, with well-maintained highways, friendly locals, and plentiful campsites. The one challenge with Baja is that you’ll often find yourself out of service, so you need to be comfortable navigating offline and also being out of communication on occasion . See my connectivity section below for some tips on staying safe without reception.
  • What are the road conditions like? A majority of your time in Baja will be spent driving on beautifully paved, brand-new highways, but to access some of the best camping, you’ll inevitably travel off Highway 1 and onto sandy roads that lead out to the beach. This is more challenging and there are a lot of areas I wouldn’t have felt comfortable driving my van by myself because I’m simply too inexperienced with rough terrain. Based on your own comfort/experience, you can stick to developed areas or venture out to wild camping sites; you’ll always have options!

Bahia Concepcion Baja California Sur Mexico vanlife

Getting to Baja

You have 3 options for getting to Mexico’s Baja Peninsula for an epic road trip:

  • Fly in to one of several international airports (& pick up a hire car)
  • Drive across the US-Mexico border in your own vehicle
  • Catch the ferry from mainland Mexico (with or without a vehicle)

Option 1 : Flying to Baja

If your Baja roadtrip will span the entire length of the peninsula (recommended!), you can fly into either the north or south end to start:

  • Tijuana (TIJ) or Mexicali (MXL) International Airports, both at the far northern border of Baja California *note that my suggested Baja itinerary begins in Mexicali
  • Los Cabos (SJD) or Cabo San Lucas (CSL) International Airports, both at the southern tip of Baja California Sur

For those looking to do only a portion of Baja California Sur on their roadtrip, I’d recommend flying into either:

  • La Paz (LAP) International Airport, the capital city of Baja California Sur

Search the best flight deals for your trip to Baja ↯

Option 2: Driving across the US-Mexico border to Baja

If you’re coming from the US and have a car, van or camper already, driving across the border is incredibly easy and a fantastic way to explore Baja!

There are 6 ports of entry between California, USA and Baja California, Mexico accessible to public vehicles, with the busiest being  San Ysidro (the busiest land border in the entire world!)  and the least trafficked being Andrade (about 15min from Yuma, Arizona, although the actual crossing is in California).

If you’re following my Baja itinerary , I highly recommend crossing in Calexico East /Mexicali II , which is usually very quiet, quick, and without hassle!

Required documents for crossing the US-Mexico border

  • Proof of Mexican Auto Insurance (read this post for details)
  • Vehicle Registration (original & copy)
  • Vehicle Title (copy) or Lien Agreement
  • FMM Tourist Card

For more information about all of this paperwork and step-by-step instructions for the border crossing, check out this post ↯

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

Option 3: Ferry from mainland Mexico to Baja

There are  2 ferry companies operating between Baja and mainland Mexico  ( TMC  and  Baja Ferries ), departing from both Mazatlán and Topolobampo, Sinaloa on the mainland and arriving into La Paz, BCS on the southern end of the peninsula. These ferries transport passengers as well as cars (I took my van from Baja to mainland Mexico on TMC in 2022), so it’s a great way to continue your road trip or just skip a potentially pricey domestic flight if you’re already in Mexico.

If you’re thinking about taking the ferry between mainland Mexico and Baja, be sure to read this super detailed post that will walk you through the process in great detail — it’s written from Baja to mainland, but applies in the other direction, too ↯

Vanlife Mexico: everything you need to know about the ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico (La Paz to Mazatlán)

Mulege Baja California Sur vanlife road trip Mexico

Getting around Baja

Option 1: driving your own vehicle to baja.

If you opted to drive your own car, camper, or van across the US-Mexico border into Baja, the most important requirement that you need to be aware of is Mexican auto insurance.

As a condition of entry to Mexico (the Baja Peninsula and/or mainland), you are required to obtain a Mexican auto insurance policy with a minimum of third-party liability coverage—  this just means that your insurance company would pay out (up to the stated maximum) in the event that another vehicle is damaged or another driver is injured and you are deemed to be at fault. Unless you’re driving an incredibly inexpensive car and have no fear of theft/damage/vandalism, then you’ll likely want to invest in a more comprehensive policy. I wrote an insanely detailed comparison of Mexican auto insurance options that will help you understand what kind of coverage is best for you ↯

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: How to get the best Mexican auto insurance for a converted van or camper

My recommendation: Baja Bound Insurance

During my first 6-month Mexico roadtrip, we actually had an accident in our van and our agent at Baja Bound handled the entire process for us , from speaking to the police, getting insurance information from the other driver, and we didn’t pay a single PESO out of pocket— it was an unbelievably easy and stress-free process, so I truly can’t recommend this company highly enough!

travel in baja

Option 2: Hiring a car in Baja

I’ve rented a car in Mexico on several occasions and you can expect the rates to be very reasonable— but you’ll pay about 2x the actual rental rate for required insurance, a detail that car hire companies like to hide in fine print until you arrive to pick up the keys.

  • Including the most basic insurance option, it costs about $45USD/day to rent a compact car in Mexico (even with different pick-up and drop-off locations)
  • You may want to consider something with high clearance and maybe even 4WD if you intend to camp on the beach, which is such a magical part of exploring the peninsula. In this case, you can expect to pay more like $120USD/day for an SUV (inclusive of insurance).

If you’re following my recommended Baja itinerary, set the pick-up location to Mexicali International Airport (MXL) and the drop-off to Los Cabos International Airport (SJD). Search for the best rates using DiscoverCars , which compares dozens of companies to find you the best deal ↯

Bahia Concepcion Baja California Sur Mexico vanlife

All about driving in Baja

Highway driving.

A good deal of Baja driving is on the highway, and although there used to be dicey stretches (particularly in Baja Norte), I’m pleased to report that all major highways are in excellent shape as of 2022 and driving on the highway in Baja is now fairly straightforward! The only thing worth noting is just how narrow the roads are, often with no shoulder, so be cautious as large trucks come flying by.

There are a few interesting idiosyncrasies when it comes to driving in Mexico, so here are a couple important road rules/customs to be aware of:

  • When driving on the highway, you’ll notice slower vehicles pull partly onto the shoulder and sometimes even put on their left blinker— this is a signal for you to pass , driving partly in your lane and partly in the opposing lane in what can quickly became a dangerous game of chicken with oncoming traffic. Most of the time, this works incredibly smoothly and you’ll come to appreciate the easy flow of cars around you! I’ve also had enormous trucks come barreling down the highway directly at me and move back into their lane only seconds away from a collision, so just be aware that this is not only customary here, but extremely common. I’m not encouraging you to pass at dangerous times, of course, but if you notice cars banking up behind you, it IS expected that you’ll move partly into the shoulder to let them by.
  • This can become very confusing if you are actually trying to turn left off the highway, as people behind you might think you’re signalling them to pass and accelerate right into your path— to avoid this, the law in Mexico states that you should pull onto the right shoulder and wait for a break in traffic before turning left across both lanes. 

Free vs toll highways While mainland Mexico is littered with a confusing network of free roads ( libre ) and paid toll roads ( cuota ), you can easily manage my entire north to south Baja itinerary on free highways in excellent condition. Unless you decide to cross the border in Tijuana (in which case you may indeed want to hop on a toll road), then you can just stick to the libre .

Bahia de los Angeles Baja California Norte Mexico vanlife

Military checkpoints

There are half a dozen military checkpoints located along the length of the Baja Peninsula and you’ll hit most if not all of them on my recommended Baja road-trip itinerary.

For the most part, this is no big deal— you’ll be asked where you’re from and where you’re going, and then the officers will have a look inside your vehicle. However, there is always the potential that the officers will swing to the other extreme and spend an hour tearing your car/van apart, possibly with drug dogs.

In VERY FEW instances, this can be an opportunity for corruption to appear. The police in Baja are rarely brazen enough to demand a bribe outright, but the military guards may bait you with questions like “can I have these headphones” or otherwise try to suggest that you’ve violated some rule to see if you’ll offer money. It’s almost always enough to simply say NO and, when in doubt, pretend not to speak any Spanish while acting politely confused and the officer will quickly relent. You don’t need to be concerned about things becoming violent or scary, as you’re right in front of the checkpoint; in all likelihood, you’ll pass through without any incident!

The location of military checkpoints are noted within the driving directions on my Baja itinerary post so you can plan ahead : BAJA VANLIFE ROAD TRIP ITINERARY FOR 1-3 MONTHS (+ DRIVING DIRECTIONS & CAMPING IN 2022)

San Ignacio Baja California Sur vanlife road trip Mexico

Street/town driving

One of the bigger challenge of driving through Baja is on small town streets, like in Mulegé or Loreto. These street are often cobbled and only wide enough for one car at a time (despite technically being two-way), so proceed with caution and, if you’re in a larger vehicle or a van, consider parking outside of town and walking in to avoid hitting your mirrors on the side of buildings, as I did multiple times.

Google Maps Baja towns are extremely poorly mapped on Google, so if you’re following navigation with Google Maps, you’ll regularly be taken the wrong way down one-way streets and routed in circles through the city centre. When you’re in town, keep your eyes open for signs; on the highway, Google Maps is very reliable.

San Jose del Cabo Baja Mexico

Beware: topes!

This is certainly the most boggling feature of Mexican roads and you’ll come to loathe them with a fierce passion. A tope is essentially a speed bump , but in Mexico, the height and shape of these bumps have absolutely no standards and are placed with WILD abandon throughout town streets, highways, dirt tracks , and basically anywhere you would never expect to find a speed bump.

You’ll only have to hit a few surprise topes to realise how damaging these can be to your vehicle, and for some inexplicable reason, a majority are not painted or signed in any fashion. Constant vigilance!

Tope

Driving on the beach

Some of Baja’s best free camping spots are located directly on the beach— it’s a big part of what makes a road-trip through Baja so spectacular, but can also be concerning for those who have a heavy 2WD van and little experience driving on sand. Here are some recommendations:

  • Invest in all-terrain tires : before travelling to Baja, I swapped my tires for what many consider to be the BEST all-terrain tires on the market ( BF Goodrich KO2 ). Costco and Discount Tire routinely run specials, but even at full price, they are absolutely worth the money and were invaluable in safely navigating sandy or rocky terrain in Baja!
  • Travel with an air inflator and pressure gauge : deflating your tires is probably the single best thing you can do to avoid getting stuck on the beach and often lowering the pressure further does more than traction boards OR hours of digging if you do get spun in. I ran 65/80psi (front/rear) for standard road driving, but aired-down to 30/40psi for sand and found it made a huge difference. 
  • Walk the route: whenever I arrived at a new beach, I parked the van and walked through the sand to check for loose/deep areas that I needed to avoid and suss out the best route forward. I know this saved me from getting stuck several times, since the sand can get deep quickly in areas where it’s not possible to turn around, but often there are alternate routes if you take the time to look.
  • Chat to other travellers : I always tried to introduce ourselves to at least one other camper on the beach, knowing that people will be far more inclined to help (if I did get stuck) after a friendly conversation. And as a rule, never push your limits on a super sandy beach when there are no other cars around!
  • Know your limits: the best tires aired down to 20psi still won’t get a 2WD van onto every sandy beach, so knowing when to turn around and find another camp is very important. Typically, there will be easier-access sites a few dozen metres from the beach, and a 30sec walk to the water is much better than spending 2hrs getting your van un-stuck. When that fails, just head to the next beach— there’s no shortage in Baja!

Bahia Concepcion Baja California Sur Mexico vanlife

Safety tips for driving in Baja

  • Out of an abundance of caution, NEVER drive at night in Baja
  • Once beyond the urban centres of Tijuana and Mexicali, Baja Norte has long stretches of very empty highway, so it’s really important to fill up whenever you pass a petrol station around the middle of the peninsula (and in particular, be sure to leave San Felipe with a full tank of fuel)
  • In anticipation of the very limited mobile reception that I mentioned above and will discuss in more detail below, I’d recommend downloading offline Google Maps so that you always know where you’re going, even without service

San Felipe Baja Norte Mexico Vanlife

Services in Baja

In the not so distant past, all petrol stations in Mexico were government-operated— you’ll still see heaps of Pemex around , particularly in small towns, but you’ll also find American petrol stations like Chevron, Arco, and even Costco in larger cities.

I consistently found Costco Fuel to be ~3 pesos cheaper than all other petrol stations , which may not sound like much, but adds up to around $15USD if you’re filling the tank!

  • A 24-gallon (90L) fuel tank like the one in my Promaster 2500 van costs about 1700-2100 pesos ($95-120) to fill , which works out to be very similar to fuel prices I was paying in Washington or Oregon, and even a little cheaper than California. *based on 2023 fuel prices
  • As of 2023, you can expect to pay around 22-24 pesos per litre.

In Baja, gas station attendants always fill your tank for you , so it’s helpful to familiarise yourself with a few phrases:

  • magna for standard unleaded petrol
  • lleno, por favor for a full tank
  • es posible pagar con tarjeta if you wish to pay by credit card (which I’d recommend, since this will blow through your cash quickly and you’ll definitely need it when paying for food and camping)

These attendants work entirely on tips, so it’s a good idea to carry around some 10 pesos coins and 20 peso notes for tipping — I gave a larger tip if they washed my windscreen, which most do!

Bahia de los Angeles Baja California Norte Mexico vanlife

Wifi & mobile reception

As mentioned previously, one of the largest challenging of travelling in Baja is the lack of consistent mobile reception for long stretches of the highway and certainly at many campsites— I’d say that I had zero bars at camp more often than I had usable data.

Modern technology offers a few excellent work-arounds in the form of StarLink (satellite wifi that works EVERYWHERE) or the cheaper option of PLB/sat-phones like the Garmin In-Reach Mini , which is how I personally checked in with family while out of service and was prepared to call for help in the event that my van broke down. This is excellent peace of mind on long drives and at remote campsites!

For mobile service in Mexico, I use  Airalo , an amazing app that offers data eSIM packages for nearly every country in the world — you can activate the eSIM entirely from your phone, so you’ll have service as soon as you drive across the border or land in Baja without needing to track down a local mobile shop! Use code BROOKE2994 for $3 off your first eSIM with  Airalo !

travel in baja

Purified water

One of my biggest concerns before travelling to Baja was refilling the fresh water tank in the van, but it truly couldn’t be easier to find purified water ( agua purificada ) on the road in Mexico!

Locals rely on “water stores” for their own drinking water, so every single town will have a designated shop where you can purchase clean water, and almost all of these will allow you to fill your tank directly with a hose ( manguera ).

  • Over 6 weeks in Baja, I spent just $14USD on water— expect to pay about 1 peso per litre (~$0.05USD)!
  • Use iOverlander to find water refill spots around Baja or simply ask locals for the nearest ‘ agua purificada ‘

Vanlife Baja Mexico

Where to stay in Baja

Camping in baja.

For those with a van or camper (or the willingness to pitch a tent), Baja has some of the most spectacular campsites of all time. All your dreams of camping on the sand with the ocean a few steps out your door are totally possible— no 4WD required! Here are some of your options:

  • Facilities:  electrical hook-ups, dump station, toilets, hot water showers, laundry, WIFI, sometimes even a pool
  • Typical cost:  250-800 pesos ($12-40USD)

Established campgrounds

  • Facilities:  toilets, palapas, occasionally a restaurant (which might offer WIFI for customers)
  • Typical cost:  100-300 pesos ($5-15USD)

Boondocking

  • Facilities:  none
  • Typical cost:  FREE!

Following my recommended Baja itinerary for 6 weeks, I spent just $24USD on camping. Check out this post to find out how , plus for a downloadable Google Map with GPS coordinates of every single campsite!

Guadalupe Canyon Oasis Hot Springs Mexicali Baja

Hotels & Airbnbs in Baja

Although camping is the best way to experience Baja, it’s also possible to road trip the peninsula staying in a mix of hotels and Airbnbs . This will limit you to more populated areas and greatly extend your budget, but of course it’s an option for those not travelling in a van/camper or with a tent!

Accommodation prices vary wildly, but you won’t struggle to find something for every budget in places like La Paz, San José del Cabo, Loreto, and Todos Santos. Smaller towns, such as Mulegé and Guerrero Negro, have far fewer options, but generally speaking, you can find a comfortable hotel room in just about every main town for an affordable price. Check Booking.com for the best deals ↯

Ensenada de Muertos Baja California Sur Mexico vanlife

The perfect Baja road trip itinerary

After my experience driving from Mexicali to the tip of Los Cabos in my van, I put together a super-detailed 1-3 month road trip itinerary through Baja that you can use as a blueprint for your own epic adventure!

Here’s a quick summary (north to south) of all my recommended stops , but be sure to check out my full itinerary for heaps of information on what to do, where to eat, and where to camp in each destination, plus practical information like the drive time/conditions between each stop and the location of military checkpoints.

Baja California (Norte)

  • Guadalupe Canyon
  • Bahía de los Ángeles

Baja California Sur

  • Guerrero Negro
  • San Ignacio
  • Bahía Concepción
  • La Ventana & Ensenada de Muertos
  • Cabo Pulmo National Park
  • Los Cabos : San Jose del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas
  • Todos Santos
Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

Mulege Baja California Sur vanlife road trip Mexico

Read more about Baja, Mexico

start here -> The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico

How to get the best Mexican auto insurance for a converted van or camper

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

The ultimate Baja camping guide (+ 35 of the best vanlife & RV campsites!)

Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

Ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico (La Paz to Mazatlán)

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brooke brisbine

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics, teaching at a university & securing permanent residency in Australia. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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Baja California Travel

Your ultimate guide to baja mexico, baja california travel guide contents.

Quick Tips | Getting There | Top Destinations  |  Things to Do  |  Baja Tours  | Baja Blogs |  Baja Safety  | FAQ

Baja California travel guide

Where is baja california located.

Baja California Mexico, consists of two states that make up the Baja Peninsula on the country’s west coast — Baja California Sur (South) and Baja California (sometimes called Baja California Norte, or Baja North).

Baja California Mexico map

baja california mexico map

Baja Mexico Travel: Baja Sur vs Baja Norte

Baja California Sur is undoubtedly the more popular state for tourism — though both Baja states have things to offer.

In Baja Sur, the famous beaches of Los Cabos ( Cabo San Lucas  and  San Jose del Cabo ) and  La Paz  await! There’s also whale watching in winters, and the  pueblos magicos (Mexico magic towns) of  Todos Santos and  Loreto .

In the northern Baja Mexico state , there’s  Valle de Guadalupe , AKA the “Napa Valley of Mexico,” and the lively beach towns like  Rosarito , Ensenada and Tijuana.

There are also calmer beach towns like Puerto Nuevo and San Felipe, the Tecate pueblo magico , beautiful Bahía Concepción (Bay of Conception), and Mulegé (pronounced mu-lay-he), an oasis town on the Gulf of California.

Baja California Mexico: Know before you go

  • 💰 Currency: Mexican Peso
  • ⏰ Time Zone: Pacific Daylight Time (GMT-6)
  • 🗣 Language: Spanish, though English is common, and you may even hear some indigenous languages
  • 🎫 Mexico Visa: The vast majority of travelers do not need a visa for Mexico — this includes Americans, Canadians, Japanese and most Europeans. Head here to see if you need a Mexico travel visa.
  • 🔌 Electricity Socket : You’ll mostly find Type A (two-prong) and Type B (three-prong) — the same as used in the United States. For visitors from other countries, you’ll need this  universal travel adaptor .
  • 📲 Mexico SIM Card : Wondering, Do I need a SIM card for Mexico? The answer is yes, every traveler will want a one for the reasons explained in this article all about the best Mexico SIM cards .
  • 🚙 Car Rentals : The Mexico rental car process can be a bit daunting, and many people are apprehensive to drive in a foreign country. I get it! Check out this guide to Renting a Car in Mexico for info on the process.

What’s the best airport for Baja Mexico?

Los Cabos International Airport (code: SJD) and Tijuana International Airport (code: TIJ) are the two largest airports in Baja California Mexico, and the ones most visitors will use.

If you’re going to Baja California Sur state, opt for Los Cabos Airport, and for Baja California state, use Tijuana Airport. There are also a few other smaller airports you can use, like the ones listed below ⤵

✈️ Baja California Sur State

  • Cabo San Lucas : Los Cabos International (code: SJD)
  • San Jose del Cabo : Los Cabos International
  • Todos Santos : Los Cabos International
  • La Paz : La Paz International (code: LAP)
  • Loreto : Loreto International (code: LTO)

✈️ Baja California State

  • Tijuana : Tijuana Airport (code: TIJ)
  • Ensenada : Tijuana International
  • Rosarito : Tijuana International
  • Valle de Guadalupe : Tijuana International

Top Baja California Travel Destinations

travel in baja

Los Cabos & Cabo San Lucas , Baja Sur Mexico

Cabo San Lucas is a Mexican beach resort city on the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula. For decades now, it has been one of the top travel destinations in Mexico.

Just north, San Jose del Cabo , where the Cabo Airport is located, has a more chill vibe. Unlike Cabo San Lucas, this Baja beach town is known more for its art scene than its party scene.

Note: These two “cabos” are part of the Los Cabos Municipality.

travel in baja

La Paz, Baja Sur Mexico

La Paz has some of the best swimming beaches in Mexico outside of the Caribbean. As not all Baja beaches are great for swimming, La Paz stands out with its calm blue waters and soft white sand.

The best beaches in La Paz Mexico begin just outside of downtown, and continue for miles. Of them all, the undeniable star of the La Paz Mexico beach scene is picturesque Playa Balandra .

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Valle de Guadalupe, Baja Mexico

Mexico has a few wine regions, though none more popular than Valle de Guadalupe, AKA The Napa of Mexico. It has about 100 vineyards and wineries — much more than Queretaro State , the second biggest Mexico wine region.

The closest beach town to Valle de Guadalupe is Ensenada Mexico . It is just two hours from the U.S.-Mexico border, and among the best party beach towns in Mexico and Baja.

Best places & things to do in Baja Mexico

There is a seemingly endless amount of things to do in Baja California Mexico, one of the top vacation spots in Mexico.

The majority of them involve being in, on, or near the water — though there’s a lot to see in the surrounding deserts as well. Click on any image below to learn more ⤵

Colorful Mexican folk art flags (papel picado) on a street in Todos Santos pueblo magico (magic town), a great place for Solo Mexico travel in Baja California, Mexico,

Todos Santos

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Cabo Arch & Playa del Amor

travel in baja

La Bufadora Blowhole

colorful homes on the water and mountains in the background in beautiful loreto, one of the Best Mexican Beach Towns

Magdalena Bay ( Gray Whales )

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Cabo Pulmo National Park

colorful umbrellas and a lot of people on the beach in Roasrito, one of the Best Mexican Beach Towns

Isla Espiritu Santo Island

the beautiful blue water and mountains along Blandera Beach in La Paz, one of the Best Mexican Beach Towns

Playa Balandra Beach

Best baja mexico tours.

Tours in Baja Mexico are a great way to see the peninsula — and unless you’re planning to rent a car in Mexico, this is the best way to get around because transportation fees add up quickly! 💡 Note: If you do want to have a car in Baja, make sure to check out this guide to Renting a Car in Cabo .

Is Baja safe for travelers?

According to experts, you are statistically quite safe while visiting Mexico.

In fact, the Baja Peninsula is one of the safest parts in Mexico — though some parts are safer than others — for example, you’ll want to exercise extra caution in Tijuana, which has good parts, and bad   parts . Now, that’s not to say bad things don’t happen in other parts of Baja; they do.

Millions of Americans go to Mexico on vacation every year, so if we play the numbers game, the number of incidents is very small… When I’m asked if Mexico is a safe place to go travel on vacation, my response is  yes . —Carlos Barron, FBI Veteran (source:  Forbes )

As with traveling anywhere, follow general travel safety like not walking home alone at night, watching your alcohol consumption and staying aware of yourself and surroundings.

For an added safety measure, pack these  travel safety items , dress in a way so your Mexico outfits blend in with the locals, and buy a Mexico SIM card .

A few places in Baja California are big party destinations, like  Cabo San Lucas , Tijuana and Ensenada , and safety can go out the window when there’s alcohol involved, so be mindful.

If you want to venture off the beaten path, do some research to make sure there aren’t any travel warnings where you’re headed — especially if you’re doing a Baja road trip .

What’s the best travel insurance for Mexico?

travel insurance for mexico paperwork

This is a question I get a lot as a Mexico travel writer and Mexico expat. To determine which Mexico travel insurance is best for you , consider factors like the policy’s total cost, your deductible, the coverage you need, your medical benefits, etc.

🏆 In general, I only ever recommend three companies to purchase Mexico travel insurance from:

  • World Nomads — For general travelers and adventure travelers.
  • SafetyWing — For general travelers and digital nomads in Mexico.
  • Travel Insurance Master — Mexico travel insurance search tool, for those who want to compare policies.
  • 👉 Click on any of the links above to get a FREE quote on your policy!

Baja Blogs: Learn more about Mexico travel 🇲🇽

four woman on one of the best cabo san lucas private boat tours

10 Best Cabo San Lucas Private Boat Tours in 2024

man fishing in Mexico | Cabo fishing charters

10 Best Cabo Fishing Charters and Tours in 2024

woman renting a car in la paz mexico

Renting a Car in La Paz Mexico: What to Know in 2024

Baja california travel: frequently asked questions, can you drink the water in baja mexico.

No — Unfiltered Mexico tap water is not safe for human consumption. However, you will need to keep drinking water and to stay extra hydrated, as Mexico is quite close to the Equator. In fact, dehydration is one of the most common ways people get sick in Mexico.

So what can you do?

  • If you’re renting a home with a kitchen, you can boil the water before drinking it.
  • You can keep buying bottled water — Though this gets expensive, and is horrible for the planet!
  • Use the Water-To-Go Filterable Bottle . This refillable bottle not only keeps you hydrated, but also filters your water so you don’t get sick in Mexico, and is good for the planet ♻️ Get 15% OFF with code SOLO15!

water bottles

The Water-To-Go Bottle has a built-in, three-stage filtration system that removes 99.9999% of all water-borne contaminants. These include bacteria, microplastics, viruses, heavy metals, chemicals and more. I personally own one, as you can drink Mexico water from any source (even the tap), and be completely safe.

packing list for mexico

🧳 Mexico Packing list

Wondering what else you need on your packing list for Mexico? Check out this guide — Ultimate Packing List for Mexico + FREE Checklist Download !

What’s the best time to visit Baja Mexico?

With its desert climate, Baja is basically a year-round destination . Its weather is similar to that of San Diego, California — which is pretty much perfect all year long — so you can expect warm, sunny days, and cool, crispy nights on your trip.

There is a short Baja rainy season from about mid-July to September, but other than that, Baja is ideal all year.

For the best value: You’ll get the most bang for your buck in the summers, from July to September . This is the rainy season, but with its desert climate, it doesn’t rain too much in Cabo.

Besides the rains, it is quite humid in the summers, but if you don’t mind the non-ideal weather, you will enjoy lower prices and smaller crowds.

When is the Baja whale season?

Winter is the best time to see whales in Baja, Mexico — whether that’s the friendly gray whales in Magdalena Bay , or the giant humpback whales in Cabo Pulmo National Park near Cabo San Lucas.

🗣 Mexico Language

Mexico Fun Fact : There’s actually no official language of Mexico!

Spanish is the most widely-spoken, so some mistakenly say Spanish is the official language of Mexico. However, the government actually recognizes 68 national languages, including the Nahuatl Aztec language, and the Maya language.

💰 Mexico Currency

Mexican Peso — Exchange rates vary, but have hovered around $18-21 pesos to $1 USD for about the last decade. You will find some places that take U.S. dollars, but usually at an unfavorable rate, so stick to using pesos in Mexico .

☀️ Mexico Weather

Mexico is a big country — the 7th largest on Earth, in fact! It’s hard to generalize the weather in Mexico, because it will vary greatly by where you’re traveling.

In general, temperatures are mostly mild everywhere all year long, though summers on the coast are hot and humid, and winters in Central and Northern Mexico are on the colder side. Throughout the whole country, the rainy season runs from (about) April through September.

✈️ Mexico Busy Season & Slow Season

• Mexico Busy Season: The busy season in Mexico runs October to March, as this is the dry season and you’ll get the best weather. December is the busiest month for tourism in Mexico.

• Mexico Slow Season : If you don’t mind some rain, you’ll often find the best travel deal during the Mexico slow season of April to September. Do keep in mind that June 1-November 1 is Hurricane Season, and Mexico beaches are all susceptible.

• Mexico Shoulder Season : The shoulder season is that magical time when prices are still low and the weather is good. The Mexico shoulder season is from about mid-October to November and January to early-April.

🧳 Download your FREE Mexico Packing Checklist here!

Check out this Ultimate Packing List for Mexico — so you know what to pack and what NOT to pack for Mexico! This article offers advice on packing for Mexico cities, and packing for a Mexico beach vacation.

Beyond what Mexico outfits and clothing you’ll want to bring, here are a few extra things to consider:

• Filterable Water Bottle: Mexico is close to the Equator, so you’ll need to stay extra hydrated. In fact, dehydration is one of the most common ways people get sick in Mexico.

A filterable, refillable water bottle not only keeps you hydrated, but also filters your water so you don’t get sick in Mexico.

The Water-To-Go Bottle has a built-in, three-stage filtration system that removes 99.9999% of all water-borne contaminants. These include bacteria, microplastics, viruses, heavy metals and chemicals.

• Mexico SIM Card: Want to be able to use your phone in Mexico?! Of course you do! Pick up a TELCEL Mexico SIM card before your trip, and swap it out on the plane while you’re waiting to exit, so you have phone and data service the second you arrive in Mexico.

•  Anti-Hangover Meds: Planning to party hardy?! Make sure you’re not wasting any of your precious travel time with a hangover. Liquid I.V. has about 70,000 reviews on Amazon, and is considered the best defense against a hangover.

•  Sun Hat: No matter if you’re headed to the beach or a city, you’ll want to wear a hat to shield yourself from the strong Mexican sun. This cute sun hat is the perfect stylish and practical accessory for your Mexico vacation.

•   Sunscreen: As you’ll want to reapply a few times throughout the day, a light, Mineral-Based Sunscreen is ideal.

Headed to the beach? Do your part to practice responsible tourism in Mexico by only using an eco-friendly reef safe sunscreen while swimming. You can even ditch the sunscreen altogether and opt for a long sleeve swimsuit (AKA rash guard) instead.

•   Bug Repellent: Mosquitoes are common throughout Mexico — especially on the beaches! REPEL Insect Repellent is an eco-friendly brand that’s DEET-free and plant based, with a pleasant lemon and eucalyptus scent. Don’t want to use a spray? Pick up some Mosquito Repellent Bracelets .

The vast majority of travelers do not need a visa for Mexico — this includes Americans, Canadians, and most Europeans. Head here to see if you need a Mexico travel visa.

🤔 What is the mexico FMM ?

When you go through Customs & Immigration to enter the country, you’ll receive your Forma Migratoria Multiple , or FMM Tourist Card (sometimes listed as FMT). If you’re coming by plane or cruise ship, there is no charge; for those driving across the border, the FMM costs about $30USD.

In most circumstances, all visitors get a 180-day (six month) visa — so you can legally stay up to six months!

🚨 Have your FMM on you at all times

Keep in mind that though it’s called an FMM card , it’s actually just a small piece of paper. Keep your FMM on you at all times in your wallet, as this proves your legal status in Mexico. It’s rare, but if an officer stops you, they can ask to see your FMM.

🎫 Don’t lose your FMM!

You need to have your FMM on you at all times, as proof of your legal status in the country.

Be sure to keep track of your FMM, as you’ll have to give it back to an Immigration officer at the airport, cruise port, or land crossing when you’re leaving the country.

If you lose your FMM, there is a $600 peso ($30 USD) cost to replace it, and some paperwork you’ll need to fill out before you can leave the country.

If you’re flying home, plan to arrive at the airport about one hour earlier than you normally would to do the paperwork and pay the fine.

As this question doesn’t have a yes/no answer ( I wish it did! ), I do my best to answer it in depth in this article, Is Mexico Safe for Travelers Right Now ? However, for the most part, Mexico is actually statistically quite safe for all travelers — including solo travelers.

Check my Solo Female Mexico Travel page for more info.

💃 Mexico solo travel guides

Mexico is a big country, and it has plenty of amazing solo female travel destinations — like the ones featured in this article, Mexico Solo Travel: 20 Safe Destinations for Female Travelers .

In it, you’ll get recommendations of places to visit in Mexico, from solo travelers who have actually been to them.

🎧 solo travel podcasts

• Ep. 34 |  Planning your first Mexico solo trip • Ep. 40 | Tips for safe solo travel in Mexico • Ep. 53 | 30 Solo female travel tips, Pt. 1

To answer the question, Is it safe to drive in Mexico? — YES , it’s considered safe to rent a car and drive in Mexico.

As the country is quite large, road trips are a great way to see a lot in a little time, and especially popular in the Yucatan Peninsula and Baja California Peninsula.

The one caveat to Mexico driving safety is that you’ll be in a foreign country, unfamiliar with their laws and customs. Head here for a complete guide to Renting A Car in Mexico: Everything You Need to Know , where you’ll also get 10 useful Mexico driving tips!

🚙💨 Looking for the best Mexico car rental company? Discover Cars works with both local Mexican companies and international companies to get you the best rates. Not only do I recommend them — I also use them!

Find Your Rental Car

As a general rule, you’ll want to know at least a few words of Spanish when visiting anywhere in Mexico. This is both a sign of respect, and will also help you have a better, smoother trip.

If you stick to the more touristic places in Mexico, you should be fine with basic Spanish. For those planning to venture off the beaten path, be advised most people in pueblos  (small towns) speak little to no English.

🗣 Here are some options:

  • Brush up on your Spanish: Use a language-learning program like Rocket Spanish , so you’re confident, and conversational, before your trip.
  • Download the Google Translate App: For this to work at all times, you’ll need a Mexico SIM card with data — as the app won’t work when you’re off-WiFi.
  • Travel with a Mexico phrasebook: This Lonely Planet Spanish Phrasebook is an Amazon best seller, and a great non-digital language assistant!
  • Save this infographic an image on your phone. This way, you have access to these common words, phrases and questions, even when you’re off-WiFi.

Cabo San Lucas, Baja California, Mexico

Getty Images/Gallo Images

Southern Baja

Cardón cacti, boojum trees, ocotillo, cholla and other desert marvels thrive in this beautiful desert area that sometimes doesn’t receive any rain for a decade. Look out for crumbling missions, date palms, coconuts and mangrove swamps as you meander southward.

Money and Costs

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Experience the real Southern Baja. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

The Arch and Land's End at sunset, Cabo San Lucas.

Cabo San Lucas

Land’s End is the most impressive attraction in Cabo. Hop on a panga (skiff), kayak or stand-up paddleboard and head to El Arco (the Arch), a jagged…

The beach of Bahía Concepción, Baja California Sur.

Bahía Concepción

One of the most stunningly beautiful stretches of coast in Baja for its blue-green waters, white sandy coves and lack of construction. Great for kayaking…

A gray whale breaches in San Ignacio Lagoon, Mexico.

Laguna San Ignacio

Along with Laguna Ojo de Liebre and Bahía Magdalena, Laguna San Ignacio is one of the Pacific coast’s major winter whale-watching sites. The Mexican…

Paddle boarding (SUP) off the island of Espiritu Santo, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in the Gulf of California, Mexico.

Espíritu Santo

A treasure trove of shallow azure inlets and sorbet-pink cliffs, Espíritu Santo is one of La Paz’s gems. It’s part of a Unesco World Heritage site…

Parque Marine Nacional Bahía de Loreto

Parque Marine Nacional Bahía de Loreto

This park makes Loreto a world-class destination for all types of outdoor activities; a number of outfitters offer everything from kayaking and diving to…

Iglesia Santa Bárbara

Iglesia Santa Bárbara

Designed and erected for Paris’ 1889 World’s Fair, then disassembled and stored in Brussels for shipping to West Africa, Gustave Eiffel’s (yes, of Eiffel…

Mision San Ignacio Kadakaaman, in San Ignacio, Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán

With lava-block walls nearly 1.2m (4ft) thick, the former Jesuit Misión San Ignacio de Kadakaamán stands directly across from San Ignacio's small plaza…

Lovers Beach (Playa del Amor) in Cabo San Lucas, Los Cabos, Mexico.

Playa del Amor

Baja's most famous beach, Playa del Amor (Lover's Beach) has stunning white sands adjacent to El Arco on the Pacific and bay sides. You can walk between…

Planning Tools

Expert guidance to help you plan your trip.

Free Things to Do

Los Cabos is primarily regarded as a five-star destination – and rightly so. But this bit of Baja coast isn't out of the question on a shoe-string budget.

Plan with a local

Experience the real Mexico

Let a local expert craft your dream trip.

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Graced with tantalizing desert landscapes, lush oases and rich marine life, Baja California is one of the most compelling and popular destinations in Mexico. Its human history is no less enticing, with a legacy of remote cave paintings, crumbling Spanish missions, luxury beach resorts and fabulous seafood. Yet even today, Baja maintains a palpable air of isolation from the rest of Mexico. The peninsula lies over 1300km west of Mexico City, and the sheer distances involved in traversing its length – it’s over 1700km long – are not conducive to quick exploration.

Bahía de los Ángeles

Valle de guadalupe, guerrero negro, south to la paz, the east cape, wine tasting in todos, surf and swim el pescadero, when to visit los cabos, sand falls and neptune’s finger, the corridor’s best beaches, lobster town, baja legends: halfway house and la fonda, the transpeninsular highway (hwy-1), practicalities.

One of the most magical sights in Baja is the annual grey whale migration from December to April; the best places to see the whales are the Laguna Ojo de Liebre, just off Guerrero Negro, or the lagoon near San Ignacio, where the town is an attraction in itself. The peninsula is also home to some of the most bewitching and thought-provoking cave art in the world – the Sierra de San Francisco, between Bahía de los Angeles and Loreto, was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993 because of its five hundred particularly vivid rock-art sites.

And all along the coast you’ll find turquoise waters and white-sand beaches; most towns in Baja California Sur offer fantastic opportunities for diving, fishing and kayaking, but Bahía Concepción, Loreto, La Paz and the remote settlements on the East Cape are the standouts among them. In complete contrast, right at the end of the peninsula, the booming resort of Los Cabos offers its own special blend of boutique hotels, beach activities, top-notch restaurants and wild nightlife.

You never know where your Baja California adventure will take you, so don't set off without securing great value travel insurance from our trusted partner Heymondo .

Tailor-made travel itineraries for Mexico, created by local experts

The Magic of the Yucatan and Mexico City

17 days  / from 1590 USD

The Magic of the Yucatan and Mexico City

Explore the magic of the Yucatan Peninsula: from colonial towns like Merida to Archaeological sites like Uxmal and Calakmul, close to the Guatemala border, to beaches in Bacalar and Tulum, this itinerary shows you the real Yucatan before heading out to explore Mexico City.

Mexico City, Oaxaca & the Yucatan

15 days  / from 1430 USD

Mexico City, Oaxaca & the Yucatan

Explore Central Mexico with its ever-busy capital Mexico City, visiting Teotihuacan and the famous museums in the city. Further on to Oaxaca City, the gateway to the Archaeological Site Monte Alban. Afterwards, continue to the white beaches of the Yucatan: Cancun and Isla Holbox await.

Fascinating Mexico: From Guanajuato to the Yucatan

18 days  / from 1735 USD

Fascinating Mexico: From Guanajuato to the Yucatan

Discover Mexico from fascinating San Miguel de Allende over busy Mexico City all the way to the Yucatan Peninsula. This itinerary combines public transportation with domestic flights to ensure you can make the most of discovering fascinating Mexico within two weeks.

If you have your own transport, a worthy detour off Hwy-1 is BAHÍA DE LOS ÁNGELES (also known as L.A. Bay), a small community of fewer than one thousand on the Sea of Cortez. The town maintains an underdeveloped, frontier feeling, little changed from when Steinbeck sailed through in 1941, while the eponymous bay teems with sea life and is hemmed in by contorted mountains and lots of enticing beaches. Because of the difficulty getting supplies to the bay, lodging and food are more expensive than you’d expect, and there are no banks or ATMs, so make sure you have enough cash.

Perched on the edge of the Bahía de Todos Santos, 100km south of Tijuana, the attractive port of ENSENADA is far calmer, cheaper and smaller than its northern rival, making for an inviting pit-stop and jumping-off point for the wineries to the east. Like Tijuana, Ensenada is a relatively recent creation by Mexican standards, despite being officially “founded” (ie discovered by the Spanish) in 1542; nothing much happened until 1872, when gold was unearthed in nearby Real de Castillo. Ensenada was gradually developed as a port, the modern town effectively planned and developed by American investor George H. Sisson and the British-owned Mexican Land & Colonization Co in the 1880s. The town remained a backwater, however, with tourism and modern development only taking off in the 1950s. Note that US cruise excursions to Ensenada are booming, so be prepared for crowds on days that ships are in port (mainly during the summer months).

While you're here, don't miss the Mercado de Mariscos (aka Mercado Negro) at the northwest end of the Malecón, where you'll find numerous stalls selling the day’s catches. The diversity of what’s on display – from squirming eel and smoked fish to giant abalone – is impressive, and it’s a good place to try the town’s lauded fish tacos, which were supposedly invented in Ensenada and have been served at the market since it opened in 1958.

The vineyards of the Valle de Guadalupe, just east of Ensenada, are not quite Napa Valley standard, but the region is clearly on the right track, as illustrated by growing international acclaim and the pioneering work of French-trained winemaker Hugo d’Acosta since the 1990s. Though you can show up at the major wineries without a reservation, it is best to call vineyards before visiting, especially if you’re coming in the warmer months (July–Sept). The villages of San Antonio de las Minas in the southwest and Francisco Zarco and El Porvenir in the northeast are the centres of the valley’s production.

Baja wines: five of the best

Once derided for watery grapes and poor vintage, Baja wines have gathered a loyal following since the late 1990s thanks to small-production, high-quality boutique wines. These are five of the best:

  • Vino de Piedra, Casa de Piedra Tones of black fruit lace this blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon.
  • Viñas de Camou, Château Camou Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
  • Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Monte Xanic Smooth, dark-red wine with a peppery aroma.
  • Special Reserve Chardonnay, Château Camou One of the best white wines in the valley.
  • Gabriel, Adobe Guadalupe Another exquisite red-wine blend (55 percent Merlot), produced by Hugo d’Acosta.

Continuing south on the main highway, there’s little between El Rosario and the 28th parallel, where an enormous metal monument marks the border between the states of Baja California and Baja California Sur ; you’ll have to set your watch forward an hour when you cross. GUERRERO NEGRO , just across the border, offers little in the way of respite from the heat and aridity that has gone before (winters, however, can find the town quite chilly). Flat and dust-blown, it was only established in the 1950s as a supply centre for Exportadora de Sal, the world’s largest salt manufacturer, and is surrounded by vast saltpans and drab storage warehouses. At most times of year you’ll want to do little more than grab a drink and carry straight on, especially if you don’t have a car – it’s a dispiriting place to navigate on foot. In January and February (and, peripherally, Dec & March–April), however, Guerrero Negro is home to one of Mexico’s most extraordinary natural phenomena, the congregation of scores of grey whales just off the coast.

Everyone ends up in LA PAZ eventually, the state capital and largest city of Baja California Sur. The outskirts may be an ugly sprawl, but the old town centre near the languid malecón, modernized as it is, has managed to preserve something of its sleepy provincial atmosphere. During the last week in February, La Paz livens up with its boisterous carnival, a plethora of colourful parades and cultural events that transform the town, while eating here is a real pleasure at any time. There’s not much to see in the city itself, but the surrounding beaches are lots of fun, and a boat trip to the Isla Espíritu Santo, rich in marine life, should not be missed.

South of Ensenada, most travellers follow Hwy-1 as it shifts from suburban sprawl to farmland and then into curvy, hilly passes that eventually drop into the Santo Tomás valley. From here it’s around 1375km to La Paz, a journey which can take twenty hours direct or preferably several days, taking in the entrancing landscapes and small towns along the way – you’ll see far fewer tourists on this stretch of the Transpeninsular Highway. The alternative (if you have your own transport) is to detour via Hwy-3 and Hwy-5 to San Felipe, then take the rugged route along the Sea of Cortez to rejoin Hwy-1 north of Guerrero Negro.

Bahía Concepción

There is good diving and fishing immediately around Mulegé, but the best beaches are between 10km and 50km south of town along the shore of Bahía Concepción, for once easily accessible from Hwy-1 – the drive down to Loreto along this stretch of road is truly spectacular. The bay ranges from 3km to 6.5km wide, is 48km long and is enclosed on three sides and dotted with islands. The blue-green waters, tranquil bays and white-sand beaches are spellbinding and relatively undeveloped – though you will at times find teams of RVs lining the waters – and it’s a good place to break your journey for a day or so before travelling south. As far as kayaking goes, there are few places better than Bahía Concepción.

Whale watching from Guerrero Negro

Whale-watching is the principal reason people visit Guerrero Negro, as hordes of friendly California grey whales (up to two thousand at a time), which spend most of their lives in the icy Bering Sea around Alaska, can be observed (at remarkably close quarters) from within the nearby Laguna Ojo de Liebre (aka Scammon’s Lagoon), thrity minutes south of town. It’s a magical experience – and many visitors actually get to touch the whales, which sometimes come right up to bobbing vessels after the engines are switched off.

Organized tours begin in Guerrero, but you can also drive to the lagoon and hire a cheaper panguero (boat) yourself. Take Hwy-1 south for 9km and look for the sign to the Parque Natural de la Ballena Gris. From here it’s 6km along a rough dirt road to a gate (which someone will open, but only during the whale-watching season Jan–March), and another 18km to the lagoon. You’ll probably be asked to pay the park entrance fee here.

San Ignacio

Leaving Guerrero Negro, Hwy-1 winds 142km inland for the hottest, driest stage of the journey, across the Desierto Vizcaíno. In the midst of this landscape, SAN IGNACIO’s appeal is immediate, even from a distance. Gone are the dust and concrete that define the peninsula, replaced by green palms and a cool breeze; despite being hammered by Hurricane Odile in 2014, it remains an oasis any desert traveller would hope for, and another excellent base for whale-watching and cave art tours. There are no banks in town and few places accept credit cards – it’s best to come with a supply of cash.

Tours and trips from San Ignacio

Whale watching.

Although whales are most in evidence in January and February, whale-watching tours to the nearby Laguna San Ignacio (around 50km from town, on mostly paved road) are offered from December to April. If you have your own car you can cut your expenses considerably (allow 1hr to be safe).

Cave-art tours from San Ignacio focus on the Sierra de San Francisco about 45km north of town, where 320 sites exist, dating back some eight thousand years; tour operators usually pass through the little town of San Francisco de la Sierra and head for the easily accessible Cueva del Ratón, or remoter caves such as the Cueva Pintada and Cueva de las Flechas in Cañón San Pablo, which require a minimum of two days.

The Tides of San Felipe

The upper reaches of the Sea of Cortez experience the world’s third largest tides – fluctuations of 6–7m are common. You’ll soon realize why tide calendars are so common in San Felipe; water that laps lazily against the beach in the morning can recede a kilometre into the hazy distance by mid-afternoon.

Legend has it that while walking in the hills around Santa Rosalía in 1868, rancher José Villavicencio chanced upon a boleo, a blue-green globule of rock that proved to be just a taster of a mineral vein containing more than twenty percent copper. By 1880, the wealth of the small-scale mining concessions came to the notice of the Rothschilds, who provided financing for the French Compagnie du Boléo (or “El Boleo”) to buy mining rights and to build a massive extraction and smelting operation in 1885. Six hundred kilometres of tunnels were dug, a foundry was shipped out from Europe, and a new wharf built to transport the smelted ore north to Washington State for refining. Ships returned with lumber for the construction of a new town, laid out with houses built to a standard commensurate with their occupier’s status within the company.

By 1954, falling profits from the nearly spent mines forced the French to sell the pits and smelter to the Mexican government who, though the mines were eventually left idle, continued to smelt ore from the mainland until the 1990s. Starting in 2004, Canadian-listed Baja Mining Corp worked hard to reopen the mine – despite running into financing problems in 2012 (Korean Resources Corp is now the main shareholder) and damage caused by Hurricane Odile, production of copper, cobalt and zinc finally began in 2015, with the new El Boleo expected to have a minimum life of 22 years. Minera y Metalúrgica del Boleo has promised to work with local authorities to develop housing, infrastructure and utilities, and so far has created around a thousand new jobs in the area (with 65 percent local hires).

Cave art around Mulegé

Other than as a springboard for the beaches to the south, the main reason to stop at Mulegé is to take one of the cave art tours out to the Sierra de Guadalupe. This range boasts the densest collection of rock art in Baja, as well as some of the most accessible at La Trinidad (29 km west of town), requiring as little as five hours for the round trip (including 6.5km on foot). Getting a group together to cut costs shouldn’t prove a problem in high season, but you still need to shop around as the tours differ considerably. Overnight excursions are possible too, including a night at a 260-year-old ranch and two different cave locations. Head to Las Casitas in Mulegé (615 153 0019), which also acts as an informal tourist office for information on other local attractions and tours. They can connect you with Mulegé Tours, run by Salvador Castro Drew (615 153 0232) – Salvador grew up in the area and is one of the most knowledgeable local guides.

Sea lions, whale sharks and Isla Espíritu Santo

There are plenty of opportunities for fishing, diving and boat trips from La Paz, but it would be a shame to leave without visiting the azure waters of uninhabited Isla Espíritu Santo, a short boat ride north of the city. Protected within the Parque Nacional Archipiélago de Espíritu Santo (including the nearby Los Islotes, a small group of islands that hosts a colony of sea lions), snorkelling trips invariably encounter dolphins, manta rays, and depending on the time of year, fin whales and whale sharks (Nov–March) – the sea lions are a sure bet and always the most entertaining.

Another popular escape for fishing and diving enthusiasts, LORETO was the site of the earliest permanent settlement in the Californias. Founded in 1697 by Juan María Salvatierra as the first Jesuit mission to the region, Loreto served as the administrative capital of the entire California territory until a devastating hurricane struck in 1829 and La Paz took on the role. Today Loreto is booming again; much of the centre is given over to craft shops and galleries, many selling silver, while the seafront malecón and central Plaza Cívica have been spruced up in recent years.

Some 8km south of town lies the largely expat community of Nopoló (aka Villages at Loreto Bay ), one of the most ambitious residential developments in Mexico, and the posh Villa del Palmar resort. Construction has provided a massive economic boost to the entire region, but critics claim that the project threatens to overwhelm the already limited water supply and Loreto’s delicate natural assets: Mexico’s largest marine park, Parque Nacional Bahía de Loreto , lies just offshore, while the weathered landscapes of the Sierra de la Giganta provide a stunning backdrop.

South of La Paz, Baja California finally runs out of land where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez come together in spectacular fashion. The ocean and sea meet at the sister towns of Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, known collectively as Los Cabos – easily the most exclusive parcel of land in Baja California. Undeniably beautiful and home to the lion’s share of the peninsula’s lavish resorts, golf courses and oft-photographed beaches, the area is one of the fastest-developing regions in Mexico (despite being hammered by Hurricane Odile in 2014), supporting a sizeable North American expat population and hordes of time-share owners.

But Los Cabos is just a tiny part of the cape. Many of its most remarkable areas still require a great deal of time and preparation to access, and many travellers rent cars to drive the loop north of Cabo San Lucas: via the fast Hwy-19 running straight up the Pacific coast through historic Todos Santos; the older Transpeninsular Highway (Hwy-1) trailing north from San José del Cabo to La Paz; and the third, most exhausting route along the East Cape.

The East Cape region features 120km of wild coastline, littered with stunningly beautiful beaches, especially around Cabo Pulmo. There is only a handful of towns and villages, with far less development than Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, though thanks to a major influx of North American “snowbirds”, US dollars are also widely accepted here, and English is often spoken.

The best of the East Cape is protected within Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, with pristine beaches and a rare hard coral reef just offshore. The area is anchored by the off-the-grid village of CABO PULMO, which has a population of around 250, basic facilities (only solar power), no paragliders and no jet skis. The beach here is rocky with strong riptides, but just fifteen minutes’ drive south on a bumpy gravel road is Playa Los Arbolites (entry M$30), a gorgeous privately owned beach with palapas, toilets and showers, and decent snorkelling. About five minutes further south by car is Playa Los Frailes (free, no facilities), a picturesque cove with sensational snorkelling – it can be like swimming in a fish tank, with rays and turtles also gliding around. There’s also a sea lion colony about 1km further along the shore, accessed by boat, kayak or by a combination of wading and swimming (strong swimmers only). Rent snorkelling gear back in Cabo Pulmo.

The largest and most accessible resort town on the East Cape is LOS BARRILES, a sportfishing and windsurfing centre some 66km north of Los Cabos airport on Hwy-1 (beyond the turning to Cabo Pulmo). Though it gets busy in the winter, it retains a fairly laid-back scene, with low-key development along the shore.

Visit La Bodega de Todos Santos (612 152 0181) on Hidalgo, between Militar and Juárez, for Baja wine tastings (mostly Valle de Guadalupe), every Monday 5–8pm. The wine shop is otherwise open Tuesday–Saturday noon–7pm, with red wine tasting (and Doña Guillermina’s tamales) on Wednesdays 5–8pm. Also sells its own olive oil from the Valle de Ensenada.

Before heading further south consider stopping at El Pescadero, just 12km from Todos, a small dusty village close to some of the best surf breaks and beaches on the coast: Playa San Pedrito, a short walk from the village, and gorgeous Playa Los Cerritos, 1km south (look for the turn at km 65). Both beaches are good for swimming. Mario’s Surf School (612 142 6156) rents surf boards and offers lessons at Playa Los Cerritos, and there's a good choice of accommodation and eating options in the area. Most buses stop at Pescadero, on Hwy-19 (every 30min or so in both directions), but you really need a car to make the most of the area.

High season in Los Cabos, as in the rest of Baja, is November through until May, though domestic tourists also provide a mini boom July and August. January and February is the best time to see whales. Avoid Christmas and Easter (packed) and spring break (Feb/March) if you want to sleep; the fishing competition season in October and November can be fun but also busy. In the summer and early autumn off-season (May–June and Sept–Oct), the heat (up to 42 °C) makes things less appealing (though the sea is warm; many locals swim at night). Whenever you visit, you can be assured that it rarely rains – all the fresh water comes from desalination plants.

Dive trips are big business in Cabo. Experienced divers shouldn’t miss the rim of a marine canyon at a site known as Anegada, off Playa del Amor, where unusual conditions at 30m create the “Sand Falls” (famously discovered by Jacques Cousteau in the 1970s), with streams of sand starting their 2000m fall to the canyon bottom. Nearby, Neptune’s Finger is a rock pile smothered in sea sponges, gorgonias and sea fans.

The distinction between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo blurs further each year as new resorts are erected along the 33km Corredor Turístico (aka Hwy-1), or just the CORRIDOR, separating the two towns. As a general rule, Sea of Cortez beaches may be swimmable and Pacific beaches never are, but before you swim or surf anywhere in Los Cabos, ask a local and read any posted signs. Obey any signs warning you off wet sand and note that beaches deemed safe one season may not be safe year round – summer especially can be hazardous.

The good news is that every beach is free and open to the public, though getting to and from them can be a hassle without your own car. With the exception of Playa El Médano in Cabo San Lucas and Palmilla in San José, you can’t comfortably reach any of the beaches on foot unless you’re staying at one of the adjacent resorts. If you’ve got your own transport you can turn off Hwy-1 at any of the beaches and park in the sand; local buses (M$17–23) run up and down the highway every twenty to thirty minutes between around 5am and 10pm daily (just flag them down). There are no toilets or lifeguards at the beaches and if you want shade, food or drink, bring your own. All distances here are measured east from Cabo San Lucas towards San José del Cabo, 33km away.

Barco Varado, km 9. The remains of a Japanese trawler that sank in 1966 lie offshore here, making diving the main focus of this beach, though it’s also a popular surfing spot. Take the marked dirt access road off the highway; mind the rocks on your way down.

Bahía Santa María, km 13. You can scuba and snorkel on rock reefs (rays and turtles hang out here) at both ends of this horseshoe cove, and go swimming at the protected beach in the middle. There’s a secure parking lot ten minutes’ walk from the beach (signposted from the highway).

Bahía Chileno, km 14.5. There are toilets here (the only beach that has them) and a dive shop that rents watersports equipment (nothing with a motor, though), making Chileno one of the easiest beaches to enjoy. Definitely the best family beach; excellent for swimming, diving and snorkelling, or just relaxing along the well-packed sand – it’s also one of the few beaches with shady palm trees. Look for the signs to “Chileno Beach Club”. It’s popular, so go early.

Playa Palmilla, km 27. Good, safe 1.5km-long beach used by San José hotel residents needing escape from the strong riptide closer to home. Point and reef breaks when surf’s up. Popular for standup paddle boarding. Access the beach by following signs to One & Only Palmilla and taking the only dirt-road cut-off to the left, about 2km from Hwy-1.

Playa Acapulquito, km 28. AKA Old Man’s, this is a top surfing beach for beginners, blurring into Costa Azul. Also home to super-cool Cabo Surf.

Costa Azul, km 28.5. The region’s best surfing beach is known for the Zippers and La Roca breaks during the summer (look out for rocks at low tide). Board rentals available at the car park. Swimming is possible during the late winter and early spring, but ask at Zippers beach restaurant (daily 11am–10.30pm; T 624 172 6162) before you dip in.

American day-trippers have been coming to TIJUANA, the definitive booze-soaked border town, in significant numbers since the 1950s. Visits crashed ninety percent between 2005 and 2009 thanks to escalating drug-related violence and subsequent US travel warnings, but things are much improved since then, and the main commercial drag, Avenida Revolución, or La Revo, has recovered some of its former colour. Indeed, police crackdowns have left central Tijuana safer than ever before, and drug violence rarely affects tourist areas.

Founded in 1889, Tijuana now has a population of almost two million, and despite its often shabby appearance, the region’s duty-free status and its legion of maquiladores (assembly plants) have helped make it one of the richest cities in Mexico. The city has developed dynamic arts and culinary scenes, with institutions like Centro Cultural Tijuana (CECUT) emerging as a breeding ground for home-grown artistic and cultural movements. In the Zona Río, beyond the areas where most tourists venture, you’ll find sophisticated restaurants, clubs and modern concrete and glass buildings, offering the best glimpse of Tijuana’s other life – one that has more in common with San Diego than the adult-themed carnival atmosphere of La Revo. And the food is fabulous – Tijuana excels at tasty street snacks but also boasts some of the best restaurants in Mexico.

Once not much more than a dusty roadside settlement between Rosarito and Ensenada at Hwy-1 km 44, Puerto Nuevo is nowadays known the length of the peninsula for its near-fanatical devotion to the local speciality that bears its name: Puerto Nuevo-style grilled Pacific lobster. Found off the coast and throughout the rest of the Pacific Rim, these lobsters don’t grow as large as their Atlantic counterparts (actually, they’re giant langoustines more closely related to shrimps) and they don’t have claws, but they’re just as delicious.

Choosing where to sample the revered dish is made easy enough by the town’s one-way street plan, which juts to the west from Hwy-1; almost every one of the more than thirty restaurants here serves lobsters the same way, grilled and split in half with beans, rice and warm flour tortillas (M$150–300 depending on the size of the lobster). Most restaurants open 10am to 8pm on weekdays, with some open until 11pm Friday and Saturday. Cash only.

Some 25km south of Rosarito, the legendary Halfway House (“halfway” between Tijuana and Ensenada, at Hwy-1 km 53; 661 614 0372), opened as a cantina in 1922 on a cliff overlooking the ocean. Today the old-fashioned dining room may have changed little since the 1920s, but the menu certainly has: think quality seafood and the infamous “golden cadillac” margaritas.

A little further south, at km 59.5 in La Misión, La Fonda Hotel (646 155 0308) was established in 1962 by Eve Stocker. The ageing, rustic Mexican inn comes with ocean views, great Sunday brunches and easy access to the beach (one of the best surf breaks in Baja). Eclectic decor, handmade furniture, a breezy deck and decent Bloody Marys at the bar (all-you-can drink on Sun) enhance the experience.

The Transpeninsular Highway is one of North America’s great road trips. Part of the thrill comes from the long spaces separating major towns, the narrow segments of highway that snake along precarious cliffs and the animals and washouts that can block the road. But the biggest draw is the near-constant beauty of the desert, mountain, sea and ocean vistas and their illumination by brilliant blue skies and starry nights. The times here include necessary stops for petrol and army inspections; all cars and buses are searched at military checkpoints stationed between Tijuana and Ensenada (2); north of El Rosario; north of Guerrero Negro; north of San Ignacio; and north of La Paz.

Tijuana to Mexicali

Mexicali to San Felipe

San Felipe to Ensenada

Tijuana to Ensenada

Ensenada to San Quintín

San Quintín to El Rosario

El Rosario to Cataviña

Cataviña to Parador Punta Prieta

Parador Punta Prieta to Bahía de los Angeles

Parador Punta Prieta to Guerrero Negro

Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio

San Ignacio to Santa Rosalía

Santa Rosalía to Mulegé

Mulegé to Loreto

Loreto to Ciudad Insurgentes

Ciudad Insurgentes to La Paz

La Paz to Todos Santos

Todos Santos to Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas to San José del Cabo

Many Americans and Canadians take their cars to Baja; despite the scary headlines when it comes to drug violence along the US-Mexico border, this is generally easy and safe. If you intend to go on from Baja to mainland Mexico, you need to apply for a Temporary Importation of Vehicle Permit (see

"). Car insurance is not mandatory but is highly recommended. There are many companies along the US-Mexico border that sell Mexican car insurance by the day, week or month (most normal US insurance policies don’t provide coverage for driving in Mexico). Note also that in Tijuana, tinted windows are now banned. Other nationalities can always

on arrival – easy enough in Los Cabos or Tijuana.

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written by Andy Turner

updated 26.04.2021

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Mexico Travel Buddy

Is Baja California Safe? 10+ First-Hand Tips

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About the author

Alex Gomez, the founder of Mexico Travel Buddy, combines his firsthand, on-the-ground experiences in Mexico with a personal connection to the country, fostered through his Mexican wife and numerous explorations. More info

Edited by Brenna Harris on 21-Nov-2023

Baja California is one of Mexico’s largest states, and it’s a big hit among avid travelers thanks to its beautiful beaches, granite mountains, and mesmerizing islands. Surely, this all sounds great on paper, but is Baja California safe?

According to the U.S. State Department , Baja California is safe to travel to, with moderate crime. There are low levels of robberies, carjackings, and hate crimes and a high level of corruption and bribery. 

Among the safest cities, Ensenada, Rosarito, and Guadalupe Valley have the lowest crime rates year over year and are some of the most highly touted destinations throughout Baja in their own regard. 

Ready to do a deep dive on safety in Baja? This comprehensive guide has everything you need to know to ensure your holiday goes smoothly and everyone gets home safe and sound.

Jump to 👇 – Exploring Baja As A Solo Female Traveler

travel in baja

Is Baja California Safe?

Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico crime rate stats by Numbeo

According to Numbeo.com, Baja California is moderately safe. However, you should still travel with increased caution. In the past three years, crime has been on the rise due to uncertainty among the people and their government.

As a tourist, you’ll most likely encounter petty crimes like theft- if any. That’s assuming you’re not doing things that could get you in trouble, such as breaking the law, making a scene, or hanging out with the wrong people.

See also: Top Things to Do in Baja California

If you decide to travel to Baja California, it’s best to go with a group of people and not alone. Also, sticking to towns that are known to be touristy such as Ensenada, Rosarito, San Felipe, and Guadalupe Valley is a great way to ensure high security levels.

What Makes Baja California Safe?

Considering the size of Baja, Mexico, and the population factor, the crime rate is actually relatively low compared to other areas in Mexico. But what is it that makes Baja, Mexico, a safe place?

Baja, Mexico is safe because the people are friendly and welcoming, and the crime, although prevalent, is usually petty.

Moreover, more than 1.9 million tourists travel yearly to Baja California Sur, Mexico. Being home to popular tourist towns such as Cabo and La Paz, you can rest assured knowing police present a strong presence in the touristy areas.

What Are The Most Common Crimes in Baja? 

According to Numbeo.com, the most common crimes in Baja are: 

  • Petty Theft/Pickpocketing
  • Drug Crimes
  • Assault/Armed Robbery

What Are The Safest Areas in Baja California?

When it comes to deciding if Baja California is safe, choosing the right destination is key. Below are some of the safest areas you can visit in Baja, Mexico.

A sunset in San Felipe, Baja Mexico

San Felipe is a very safe town on the eastern coast of Baja California. This fishing village is home to less than 20,000 citizens and is known to be much calmer than bigger cities within the state, like Rosarito.

See also: Best Hiking in Baja California

San Felipe also has a lot of gorgeous beaches where you can soak up the sun, swim, and of course, fish.

A view Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico

Ensenada, Mexico, is one of the most laidback cities in Baja Mexico, and as a result, this town has lower crime rates. Additionally, police and citizens carry a strong level of trust in each other, ensuring the city remains safe.

Ensenada is a coastal city and also happens to be the third-largest city when it comes to population. You can find local wines, delicious seafood, and a lot of fantastic beaches. As if that’s not enough, the weather there is consistently superb for almost nine months out of the year.

Todos Santos

The beach in Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico

Since Todos Santos is a popular tourist city, local police presence is apparent, and quick to respond to any petty crimes that may occur while visiting. This makes Todos Santos a safe and enjoyable place to visit.

Plus, it’s a hip surf town where you can find some of the most breathtaking views in the entire country. It’s situated on the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains’ foothills and the Pacific coast of the (Baja California) Peninsula. This natural paradise is made of stone streets and uncrowded beaches but it also features a ton of natural beauty and world-class waves.

Other Destinations

Overall, the southern part of Baja is known to be the safest place in the entire country. This part of Mexico is not attributed to the drug war and has had no major problems.

In addition to the aforementioned cities, here are some popular tourist destinations with a safe rap: 

See also: Best Time to Visit Baja California: Events and Festivals

  • San Quintin

These are some of the safest areas in all of Mexico and some of the most exciting because they’re the home to acclaimed national parks and amazing caves.

Hiking and camping are generally considered to be quite safe throughout Baja, but it’s highly recommended that you never venture out alone and try to stay close to other outdoorsy groups. 

While “safety in numbers” is always a good strategy to employ, this is not just to protect you from wildlife or backroad criminals.

Many of Baja’s remote locations have really poor (or nonexistent) cell and Wi-Fi service. In the event of an emergency, you’ll want other people around to get you some help.

How to Stay Safe in Baja California

Traveling to Baja is not dangerous as long as you come prepared and know what to watch out for. Here are a few tips on how to protect yourself during your travels:

Is Baja California Safe? Top safety tips

1. Check your country’s recommendations for travel to Baja Mexico

Many countries will put out safety advisories for destinations/cities that will help you understand the current political/crime climate at any given moment. It’s important to remember that the safety situation can change in an instant, so turning to the government for up-to-date information is wise. 

That said, especially when it comes to Mexico, these safety concerns can be overblown. Do your homework, read the references they provide, and then you can make an informed decision in combination with articles like the one you’re reading right now. 

Seeking a healthy mix of local and international context is the key to being a cautious traveler. 

Need help finding resources? Here are a few helpful government advisory links:

  • United States

2. Follow the laws while driving

Many travelers make the trip to Baja California in their vehicle as it’s right across the border from California. That said, the moment you cross the border, driving conditions and laws change, so make you understand all the requirements to travel to Mexico by car . To get started, these are a few quick things to keep in mind: 

  • Furthermore, the streets of Baja are littered with potholes and stray dogs, so always be observant while driving and drive during the day if possible .
  • Be aware that you need Mexican car insurance to drive in Baja California and surrounding areas. Otherwise, you risk huge legal fees. Plus, many locals don’t have insurance, so if you do get into an accident, at least you’ll be covered. Pro tip: Don’t get just any insurance; it’s best to get affordable yet reputable insurance like Baja Bound , who’s been in business for decades.

Driving to Mexico? You MUST have third-party liability insurance. Ensure you read my guide for more info.

  • It’s best to avoid driving at night if possible, as your visibility is reduced, and criminals are generally more active at this time. Cartels have been known to create illegal roadblocks as a way to demand money before allowing you to pass through.
  • Also, armed muggings can occur while stopped, especially in crowded cities, so try to limit how often you stop and plan your trip ahead to ensure you’re taking the best routes.

3. Stay vigilant while wandering the streets

When it comes to exploring the cities in Baja, there are a few very simple rules you should follow to increase your safety.

  • Never walk alone . Walking around alone is never a good idea, especially in a foreign city. It’s best to travel in a large group, or at least with two other people. Venturing around a city in Baja alone is just inviting trouble. Skip the trouble, don’t walk alone. Simple.
  • Avoid exploring Baja at night – Exploring a city at night is not the best idea, as this is when crime is at its highest and you’re most vulnerable. If you do decide to explore at night, go with a group and make sure to bring an extremely bright flashlight and try to stay near the tourist areas as they tend to be safer.

4. Watch out for petty crimes

Thefts, snatch-and-grabs, and pickpocketing happen a lot in Mexico, especially in crowded areas, so try to avoid them. With that being said, be aware of who is around you at all times, don’t leave your personal belongings lying around, and certainly don’t carry all of your money with you.

Use common sense, stay alert, and don’t draw attention to yourself. Avoid wearing fancy jewelry and brand-name clothes, which may draw unwanted attention, ultimately leading the criminals right to you.

There are a also few common tourist scams you’ll want to look out for, especially in the larger cities. For example, people asking you to take their picture/offering to take yours do not always have the best intentions, and if anyone offers you assistance at the ATM, you should politely decline and walk away. 

Trust me, at the end of the day, staying vigilant and keeping to yourself should be enough to keep you safe, so there’s no need to panic.

5. Don’t resort to violence

Although petty crime is the most common experience for all visitors, both physical and sexual violence is also at an all-time high. In fact, in recent years, it’s been well documented that Mexico has had a notably high murder rate (with most of the victims being Mexican nationals).

If you’re in a situation where you are being threatened for money or valuables, do not resist and/or fight back. 

My aim is not to scare anyone but rather to inform you of the reality. Although, violent crimes should be easily avoidable using common sense.

Here are some key tips to avoid violent crimes:

  • Don’t get involved with the wrong people
  • Avoid attracting any kind of attention to yourself
  • Be respectful and courteous
  • Never find yourself in a situation where you are alone
  • Don’t buy, sell, or use drugs

6. Don’t get involved with drugs

Most of the violent crimes in Mexico revolve around cartels and drugs. So the equation is simple. Avoid drugs and cartels. Then you avoid violence.

Expect to find yourself in trouble if you consider buying drugs while in Baja, Mexico. If I were you, I would avoid drugs, drug dealers, and any drug-related activities altogether in order to increase your overall safety.

Exploring Baja As A Solo Female Traveler

As we all well know, traveling on your own as a woman comes with its own unique set of challenges and safety concerns. While Baja is considered a safe destination for solo female travelers, you’ll want to take some additional measures to protect yourself.

Here are just a few tips and tricks if this will be your first trip without a companion:

1. Invest in an international phone plan so you can check in with your loved ones

It’s important that someone knows where you are and that you’ve made it back to the hotel safely. You can also share Uber driver information and other tracking info this way in case it’s needed.

2. Be mindful of your social media use

I totally understand the urge to post about your vacation as soon as you set foot on international soil, but giving away your location as a solo female traveler isn’t the wisest course of action. I typically avoid placing any geotags on my content and keeping my location ambiguous if I really can’t wait.

Otherwise, I will avoid sharing any highly specific content (hotel partnership anyone?) until I return home. Get those brand deals and brag about staying at that 5-star resort, by all means, but protect yourself while you’re at it.

3. Read reviews written by other solo female travelers

If another woman felt unsafe or insecure at any given hotel/vacation rental/attraction/part of town, chances are she’s going to warn others. We have to stick together, right? Before booking anything, I always comb through reviews for ones that seem to be written by someone like myself. If the overwhelming consensus is that they felt safe during their stay, then I go ahead with my plans.

4. Don’t feel bad about telling a fib

I get it, you don’t want to lie to someone’s face. But if you feel like a conversation is veering in a direction you’re uncomfortable with or you have to get into a taxi alone, there’s no harm in mentioning that you have a boyfriend/husband waiting for you back in the hotel room/at the restaurant. Being polite is never worth sacrificing your safety.

5. Take a walking tour before venturing out on your own

This might sound a little silly, but local tour guides know all the best spots in town (and the shadiest). If you want to know which areas to avoid, they’ll almost certainly point them out, and there’s no harm in asking about which areas are okay after dark or where to steer clear of. That said, I’d avoid mentioning that you’re on your own.

Police corruption and bribes in Baja California

Police corruption and “mandatory” bribes are not a huge concern in Baja, but this is something that occurs in some of the larger, more dangerous cities, especially those near the border. 

Namely, this is more of a concern in Tijuana. Mexicali and Tecate. While the chances of being stopped are low, if you are, it is important to remain calm and level-headed. They will never be framed as a bribe right off the bat, and the officers will inform you that you have broken the law in some way, such as a minor driving infraction. 

Generally, the bribes requested could range from $100-$500 USD, and will typically go up if they can see that you have a lot of cash on you. For this reason, it’s best not to flash your money around while counting it out.

Advice on how to handle these bribe stops is varied, but from what I’ve seen, it may be best to pay the fine and move on rather than run the risk of garnering too much attention. 

You may find it’s worth requesting that they take you to the police station to pay the fine, but this is not a foolproof strategy.

Is Baja California Safe? – FAQs

Is the food in baja safe.

The food in Baja California is relatively safe to consume. To minimize your risk of foodborne illness, here are a few tips:

1. Always check the reviews of restaurants online before dining out 2. Avoid eating perishable foods that are room temperature or look like it’s been left out for a long time. 3. Make sure the meat you eat is cooked all the way through before consuming. 4. If eating at a street stand, watch to see if the person who handles the money is also the same person making and serving the food.

Is it safe to drink tap water in Baja California?

Waterborne illness can also be a concern, so to avoid a medical emergency (or even some uncomfortable tummy grumbles) don’t drink the tap water.

You can easily stock up on bottled water at convenience and grocery stores, but you’ll also want to be mindful about ice at the bar or produce that doesn’t have a peel.

Is Driving through Baja Safe?

Driving through Baja is generally safe. Be sure to stick to the main roads, avoid picking up hitchhikers, and try not to stop unless it’s an emergency. Also, drive during the day if possible and have Mexican vehicle insurance in case of an accident.

Is the Cartel in Baja?

There is always a cartel presence in Baja California. However, the cartel does not generally wreak havoc on tourists because they are their main source of income. As long as you don’t get involved in any of the cartel’s business, they will leave you alone.

Is Baja California safe for the LGTQIA2S+ community?

Within the smaller, catholic communities throughout Mexico, there’s definitely still a lingering stigma when it comes to LGBTQIA2S+ people, and PDA is discouraged for your own safety. This is true of Baja as well.   That said, there are several “resort” destinations throughout the state that are gay-friendly and highly inclusive. Los Cabos, Cabo San Lucas, and La Paz all come highly recommend and purpleroofs.com is a great resource if you’re looking for places where you’re 100% free to be yourself.

In Conclusion – Is Baja California Safe?

If you’re looking to travel to Baja, Mexico, but you’re worried about the state’s overall safety, you can travel with confidence, knowing you’re already increasing your safety just by consuming helpful content such as this article.

alex gomez mexico travel buddy

Alex Gomez, the founder of Mexico Travel Buddy, combines his firsthand, on-the-ground experiences in Mexico with a personal connection to the country, fostered through his Mexican wife and numerous explorations. As a professional writer and avid travel enthusiast, his favorite destination remains anywhere within Mexico's diverse landscapes. His extensive travels have equipped him with a treasure trove of tips, tricks, and insights, which he enthusiastically shares with his audience. Alex's stories and photos on the website not only showcase his love for Mexico but also offer readers a deeply authentic and engaging perspective.

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The Perfect 2024 Baja California Sur Road Trip Itinerary

12/27/2023 by Kristin Addis 6 Comments

The plane glided overhead, me eagerly watching the landscape below as we made for Cabo, cerulean lagoon after rolling mountains populating the landscape of the peninsula. 

One could see the entire width of Baja from the window seat. The mountains made way for washes, carved by water that used to roam through it in abundance, now literal wrinkles in time for wild mile after wild mile of that arid desert. Home to cacti, low bushes, and a surprising abundance of life both in the mountains and the sea, I was witnessing the rugged beauty of Baja California Sur unfold. 

I had two weeks ahead of me to road trip through Baja California Sur in Mexico, beginning in San Jose del Cabo. Since I didn’t get to head north this time around, I have invited Sally from Sally Sees , who visited most of the beautiful spots that I couldn’t make it to on this trip to share her experience. Here’s an epic Baja Sur itinerary for you: 

Table of Contents

1. Todos Santos

Todos Santos Baja California

Upon landing in SJD, G and I picked up the rental car (more on avoiding scams later in this post) and immediately made our way for dreamy Todos Santos. 

Translating to ‘all saints,’ — which is a nice name, no? — Todos Santos is a designated pueblo magico, or ‘magic town’ in Baja. With its sweeping views of the Pacific and bird’s eye views of whales breaching on their way south, this artsy little town fits its designation.

To be honest I just chilled the F out in Todos Santos. The beach isn’t swimmable, due to big waves and rocks, but this is something you get used to in Baja. Book a place with a view and a pool and you’re set ( I loved this one! ).

Things to do in Todos Santos: 

Baja California road trip

  • Hike the Sugar Port Trail: Get gorgeous views on this 2-mile hike along the coastline. Check the starting point here.
  • 4×4: Want to access the wild side? The mountains are right there, too, and lots of fun 4×4 roading that those terrible rental cars can’t do for you! Rent in town or take a Jeep tour and let someone show you the best spots.
  • Surf: Just south you’ll find a surfing wave if you’re into it, or consider hiking to palm beach for a lovely beach day.

Where to Eat in Todos Santos:

baja california road trip

  • Seafood: Santos Pecados Restaurant & Bar, Todos Santos not only has amazing service, but amazing seafood! The tequila fish is to die for (and doesn’t taste like tequila, don’t worry).
  • Brunch: The vibe is on point at La Esquina Todos Santos. It’s mostly outdoors, open-air and has veggie and healthy options as well as great breakfast. There’s a farmer’s market on Sunday, too!
  • Tacos: Tacos El Poblano in the evening for cheap al pastor and Tacos George’s for fish tacos during the day. They’re right next to each other with opposite hours.
  • Dessert: Baja Tasty, near Santos Pecados, has amazing ice cream!

Where to Stay in Todos Santos:

The pool photo featured above was at Los Colibris Casitas , a gorgeous boutique hotel with plenty of privacy and awesome views. I loved the King Suite!

Balandra Beach la paz

La Paz, meaning ‘the peace’ — also a nice name, right? — is the best jumping off point for the gorgeous beach pictured above and whale shark swims.

La Paz is certainly bigger than Todos Santos, and I recommend you follow all traffic rules perfectly because the police are out in full force, but once in town you’ll see why people love La Paz. The Sea of Cortez is beautiful and it’s perfectly positioned for amazing sunsets.

Things to do in La Paz:

cancun things to do

The Sea of Cortez is brimming with life, and depending on the season, you can swim with all kinds of amazing things out there. Keep in mind for Espiritu Santo you’ll be required to wear a life jacket, which some people won’t mind and others (like me) will mind a lot!

  • Swim with Whale Sharks: La Paz’s whale-shark season runs annually from October to May. Unlike in Cancun , you don’t have to wear a life jacket in the water if you’re wearing a wetsuit. It’s tightly regulated, and the only way to see them is via boat tour. It was too windy when we were there to go, but Alonso tours were so responsive, upfront, and helpful and friends of mine who went with them later loved them. If you prefer to book in English, you can do so here . (BTW both are much cheaper than some of the bigger companies, and both are good!)
  • Visit Isla Espiritu Santo: Swim with sea lions in beautiful bays on this trip. When I saw this island from the plane, I was dying to visit, but life jackets are required even in the water. I understand it’s a regulation, but that would ruin it for me. If that wouldn’t bother you, sign up to do it here . I’ve heard great things, and sea lions are so interactive!
  • Visit Balandra Beach: You’ll need a vehicle for this one, or a taxi. Balandra has strict capacity limits and usually operates in two time slots, morning and afternoon. Check with your accommodation for the latest restrictions as they change frequently. Or, take a boat or jetski over from a neighboring beach. We found a tour guide on Pichilingue who just added us to his boat and dropped us off, then picked us back up five hours later for 500 MXN total for two people. Ask around, haggle, and find yourself a private stretch of sand – there’s a lot of it, see below:

La Paz baja california

What to Eat in La Paz:

  • Bakery and BBQ: Vrentino Restaurant has delicious pies and cakes and their grilled fish and pulled pork were on point!

Where to Stay in La Paz:

Since we splurged a bit on other spots, we went budget in La Paz at Araiza Palmira , which was fine, especially for the price, but had I known strong winds would have meant we’d spend a lot more time inside, I would have booked Hotel Catedral with that awesome rooftop instead.

3. Magdalena Bay

Magdalena Bay baja california

Single-handedly the most amazing thing I have ever done in my life was to see the gray whales in Magdalena Bay.

Each year between January – March, gray whales migrate from the cool waters of Alaska to the warm, sheltered lagoons off the Pacific Coast of Baja to mate and give birth.  

But something really special and unusual happens down here. The gray whales in Baja are friendly and interactive.

They approach boats, stick their heads out of the water to look at you (spy-hopping) and welcome pats and kisses. No one really knows why, but the experience is completely ethical. The whales are free to move as they please, and if you don’t give them the attention they want, they will find another boat that will!

Things to do in Magdalena Bay

Magdalena Bay Baja California

  • Gray whale watching: It’s all about the whales! To see them, you will head into the bay on a panga (skiff-style boat) with a local captain. It’s a game of patience waiting to find whales, and sometimes they won’t be interested in playing or interacting. We saw lots of whales from a distance on our first day, but it was our second day that we had some amazing encounters with a mamma who spent hours with our boat. 
  • Snorkeling the sardine run: Magdalena Bay is still worth visiting if you can’t make it for the whale season. Between October – December each year there is a sardine run, which draws in predators like marlins, sea lions, dolphins and sharks that you can snorkel, free dive or dive with.

Where to Eat and Stay in Magdalena Bay

We opted for a package with Magdalena Bay Whales , one of the local tour companies. We glamped for two nights on an island in Magdalena Bay and had all our meals home cooked for us. It was one of the greatest travel experiences we have ever had, and we can’t recommend this enough!

Magdalena Bay Baja California

As soon as I saw the iconic photo of Mulege, with the river snaking through a grove of palm trees and arid mountains rising up in the background, I knew I had to visit.

Mulege is a very small town known as ‘the oasis town’, for its large freshwater source in the middle of the desert, the Rio Mulege (Mulege River).

A historic Jesuit mission, some of the best beaches in Baja and a picturesque oasis, there is enough in Mulege to see and do. But it’s also the perfect place to slow down, relax and take it easy.

Things to do in Mulege

Mulege Baja California

  • Visit the Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé: A Jesuit mission that was built here for its freshwater source. The main drawcard of the mission is the vantage point to see the river and the palm grove below.
  • See the oasis in the desert : It is such a rare sight in Baja to see fresh water and lush greenery, the Rio Mulege really is an amazing spectacle. We wandered along the banks of the river near town, but the best view was from the mission.
  • The incredible beaches of Bahia Concepcion : Between Loreto and Mulege is this enclosed bay, with dozens of empty beaches. Some of the best in Baja, the water is bright blue, calm and so scenic with tiny offshore islands and mountains everywhere you look.

Where to Eat in Mulege

  • Beer and bar snacks: Mulege Brewing Company is the main watering hole in Mulege, with craft beers on tap, pizzas and other bar snacks.
  • Street food stalls: For some cheap local tacos, burritos and aguas frescas, head to Mulege’s main plaza Jardin Corona and see what stalls are open.
  • Mexican fare: Try Restaurant Bar Los Equipales for a typical Mexican restaurant with colourful tablecloths, all the usual suspects on the menu and friendly service.

Where to Stay in Mulege

  • In town: There is nothing fancy in Mulege. Accommodation is typically in self-contained casita-style rooms. Clementine’s is the best option.
  • On the beach: There are some really unique stays along the beach in Bahia Concepcion. Sleep on a sailboat in the bay or go glamping .

Loreto Baja California

Loreto exceeded all our expectations and turned out to be our favourite destination in Baja. We think it is completely underrated! There are some retired snowbirds who come down for the winter, but you avoid the crowds and craziness of Cabo, with a real laidback Baja vibe.

Loreto is the second of just two pueblo magicos in Baja Sur, and it totally deserves its title. It’s a small, historic town with charming plazas, a waterfront Malecon and so many outdoor adventures on sea and land.

Things to do in Loreto

Loreto Baja California

  • Explore the historic centro : Home to the first Jesuit mission in Baja, tree-lined pedestrian streets, cafes in the plaza and a waterfront Malecon boardwalk, we wandered aimlessly for hours.
  • Hike Tabor Canyon : A stunning hike into a desert canyon, requiring some rock scrambling and a bit of intense climbing but we loved it. You can go solo ( follow this trail ) or take a local guide.
  • Visit Isla Coronado: One of five islands in the Loreto Bay National Park, Coronado has the best beaches in Loreto. We took a boat tour out to the island, spotting dolphins, sea lions and blue-footed boobie birds on the way.
  • Get underwater in the Sea of Cortez: Jacques Cousteau did not call this the aquarium of the world for nothing! Snorkel, free dive or scuba dive to discover sea lions, dolphins, whales, rays, turtles and other marine life. Blue Nation Baja is a great dive shop.
  • Go blue whale watching: Witnessing the biggest animal in the world up close was an incredible experience. From February – March blue whales hang out in the Bay of Loreto. We learnt so much from the marine biologist on our tour with Loreto Sea & Land .
  • Visit the San Javier Mission: The one-hour drive into the desert was so scenic. Another Jesuit mission, built in the middle of nowhere because there was a freshwater source there. The colonial-style building in the desert landscape was so unique. Drive your rental car or take a tour.

Where to Eat in Loreto

  • Tacos: El Rey del Taco is a Loreto institution with the best Baja-style fish tacos. Asadero Súper Burro is the go-to for meat tacos, with juicy arrachera and asado.
  • Seafood: El Caloron serves up all kinds of seafood, overlooking the waterfront on the Malecon. Hotel Oasis does a clam bake buffet on the beach every Saturday night.
  • Coffee: La Route café in the plaza was some of the nicest coffee we had in Baja.
  • Desserts: La Creperia for amazing crepes with all kinds of toppings. Try a traditional southern Mexican marquesita from Mare Lindo food truck (check their Facebook for their current location).

Where to Stay in Loreto

Loreto Baja California

  • Top end: There are some lovely boutique hotels in Loreto. Many resorts are out of town, but it’s worth staying in the heart of the action. Try Posada Las Flores or La Mision Loreto.
  • Budget-friendly: There are some cute apartments on Airbnb for something private but affordable. We stayed in this apartment and it was the perfect location.

6. La Ventana

La Ventana Baja California

La Ventana is a favorite for kite boarders and lovers of the ocean. I heard it’s so-named for the window of time in the morning before the winds pick up and create the perfect conditions for kiters.

There was a weeklong wind storm that foiled most of my plans for the Sea of Cortez and Isla Cerralvo, which doesn’t have the life jacket requirement.

Though I didn’t see as much as I’d hoped, we nearly managed to get in with a HUGE pod of dolphins and we swam with sea lions as well. You can see some of it in the video below:

When the conditions are better, I’ve seen amazing videos with Orcas, Sperm Whales, and big fish. It’s enough to make me want to try again!

Things to do in La Ventana:

isla ceralvo sea lions

  • Snorkel and freedive: Isla Cerralvo is typically pretty good for swimming with sea lions and having better clarity than other areas closer to shore for snorkeling. Again, I got unlucky when I went, but we still swam with a few of these guys. It’s best to book this directly with a boat captain, as hotels will double the price. Check out my where to stay section for help on getting a cheaper (and just as good) boat.
  • Kite Board: La Ventana is famous as a kiting spot. Don’t know how? No worries, take some lessons from Girl on a Board .
  • Mountain Bike: This isn’t so much my sport, but if you’re into it, there are many trails through the mountains that frame La Ventana.
  • Check out the hot springs: They’re right on the beach! Find them here . Be careful, some of the areas are suuuuper hot!

What to Eat in La Ventana:

  • Tacos: The best tacos I had in Baja Sur were right here . It’s just a little yellow stand with a friendly female owner and 20-pesos taco heaven.
  • Seafood: Mariscos El Cone has yummy grilled fish and the portions are huge!
  • Pizza: If you want some pasta or pizza, San Siro – Risto.Pizza.Bar does it well!

Where to Stay in La Ventana:

I stayed at an Airbnb (pictured above) that was a little off the beaten path but beautiful and affordable. I loved the landscaping, the remoteness, the sunrise and sunset views, and the cool way it was constructed into little pods! Ask the host to help you book a boat excursion directly with a captain.

7. Santiago

santiago waterfall baja sur

This desert oasis in the interior of Baja Sur was magical, and I highly recommend checking out the hot springs and the Canon de la Zorra. Consider spending the night , as well!

It’s a dirt road for much of the drive out of Santiago, but it was passable in our chevy sedan rental. I know things can change after the rain, so reconsider this trip if it’s been pouring lately.

Things to do in Santiago:

santa rita hot springs

  • Sol De Mayo: The waterfall pictured above is truly magical. The water is crisp, there are several crystal clear pools of water, and bonus, there are little fish in there who will nibble your feet – hey natural fish spa! Entrance is 150 mxn per person via the Rancho Ecologico Sol De Mayo , which I recommend staying at, too!
  • Santa Rita Hot Spring: There are two hot springs in the area, but this is the prettier of the two. Access it via San Jorge. It’s easy to hit both the waterfall and the hot spring in an afternoon! Entrance is 150 mxn per person, and you can camp here as well. Avoid visiting on weekends when it can get busy. It’s also closed on Wednesdays.
  • Canyon tours: I didn’t do this, so can’t recommend a specific tour, but if you’re down for canyoning and going through caves, you can book a tour in Santiago or nearby to do this!

Where to Stay in Santiago:

You can camp at the Santa Rita Hot Springs if you have your own gear, or you can spend the night at the Rancho at the waterfall on Airbnb . There’s no electricity, but it looks like a wonderful experience and one I’d probably do next time!

8. San Jose Del Cabo

secrets los cabos

I have a confession to make, I stayed at an all inclusive in San Jose Del Cabo and I honestly loved it, though I felt torn, too!

My reason for going back down to Cabo was to swim with sharks out of Cabo San Lucas, but I don’t find that Cabo San Lucas has many redeeming qualities, so I decided to book Garrett and I into a fancy hotel in San Jose with a gorgeous view. I honestly hadn’t realized until after I booked it that it was an all inclusive!

The great part: How easy it was to just relax and enjoy the surroundings. We didn’t have to think about anything, and I thought that the food was good.

The bad part? All inclusive tends to inspire a lot of excess and therefore tend to be quite wasteful, I also didn’t appreciate all of the plastic that they used in the hotel. I’m talking everything from shampoo bottles to the device you use to order room service (that has to be torn out of the plastic to charge it anyways) were wrapped up. I really wish they wouldn’t!

That said, for one night of bliss, we were super careful to only order what we would eat, and if you’d like the same experience, this is how I paid for it entirely in points, and this is where you can book at yourself.

Things to do in San Jose Del Cabo:

cabo san lucas shark swimming

There’s all kinds of sea life at the end of the peninsula where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific. At any given time of year, you could see whales, different kinds of sharks, Mobula rays, and more.

I recommend freediving with sharks with Baja Shark Experience, who also run Magdalena Bay trips. The trip was a bit pricey, but totally worth it when we got to swim with a blue shark for over 2 hours! 

Road trip itinerary

When planning your Baja Sur road trip, you have two options in terms of the route:

1. Do a round trip, renting and returning a car from the same place. SJD (Los Cabos International Airport) is the best place for this, and you will fly in and out of this airport.

2. Do a one-way rental, starting from Los Cabos and returning the car in Loreto. You will fly into SJD and fly out of LTO Loreto International Airport.

Our road trips were both return trips, starting and finishing in Cabo, and the route we shared here is for a return trip.

But if you want to do a one-way trip, we would recommend this route:

  • San Jose del Cabo
  • Todos Santos
  • Magdalena Bay

Renting a car at the airport in San Jose Del Cabo

If you’ve ever rented a car before in Mexico , you’ll know that what you see is not what you get in terms of the price online. Even if they promise that it includes all of the insurance, you will still arrive in Mexico only to be told that the insurance costs extra. I’m always prepared for this in Cancun , but in Baja Sur it’s the worst, where the price can quadruple.

For this reason, I recommend not booking and paying for a car ahead of time, but rather haggling in person when you’re there. Make sure that you get everything clearly in writing, do calculations for the currency rate, and film the car before renting. It’s one of the more scammy rental experiences I’ve had – just Google any car rental agency down there and you’ll see nothing but one star reviews. But if you know how to play the game you’ll be fine. We were able to get a 16 day sedan rental from Sixt for $480, which wasn’t bad!

The best way to get a good price is to take a van to Hertz or Sixt and negotiate in person, or only talk to the people at the actual labeled booths right near the exit of the airport. Always be willing to walk away.

It’s annoying, but it’s just the way it’s done down there!

Renting or returning a car in Loreto

There are a number of car rental agencies at the airport in Loreto. If you don’t want to do a round trip and drive all the way back to San Jose del Cabo, you can coordinate to pick your car up in Cabo and return it in Loreto or vice versa.

The same rules apply about the confusing pricing and insurance add-ons if you’re picking up a car in Loreto.

Loreto has a small international airport that has limited flights within Mexico and to some US and Canadian cities, so you can start or end your Baja California Sur road trip there.

All in all, Baja has so many adventures, and there’s something enchanting about the way the cacti stretch right out to the sea, and this road trip through Baja Sur gives you an amazing taste of it. Enjoy the starry nights, the calmness, and the amazing aquatic adventures!

baja california itinerary

About Sally: Sally Rodrick is the voice behind Sally Sees . She has spent months travelling in Mexico and Central America, and helps thousands of readers discover the magic of Latin America. Sharing detailed guides to inspire and equip them with the knowledge they need to plan their own epic adventures in this incredible part of the world.

About Kristin Addis

Kristin Addis is the founder and CEO of Be My Travel Muse, a resource for female travelers all around the world since 2012. She's traveled solo to over 65 countries and has brought over 150 women on her all-female adventure tours from Botswana to the Alaskan tundra.

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12/18/2020 at 8:38 pm

Another great write-up of a trip I’ve always wanted to do, although I think, given the time, I’d prefer to drive down from California, rather than fly. Did you guys have many problems driving around in the bigger cities?

Kristin says

12/20/2020 at 3:54 pm

The police pulled us over for ‘running a yellow’ in La Paz, which is obviously not against the law but he just wanted a bribe. I’d just show your license rather than handing it over and only keep a small amount of money in your wallet to show, like 100-200, to get it squared away if it does happen. Just keep talking and keep it light. The longer you keep him talking the more he’ll just want to take what you offer and get it over with.

12/24/2020 at 1:09 pm

Good advice – thanks!

01/15/2021 at 7:14 pm

Thank you for this. Very Helpful

Claire says

07/02/2021 at 3:31 pm

Hi, Thanks for this info, super helpful! I have a question, do you know if there is always water in the santiago waterfalls? Or is that seasonal?

07/03/2021 at 10:29 am

I believe it’s always going.

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AllAboutBaja.com

Travel Guide to the Baja California Peninsula

4 Important Travel Tips for Baja

AllAboutBaja.com Travel Tips for Baja California Mexico

Baja Travel Tips

Preparing for your journey to baja.

The very best way to experience Baja is by driving, but make sure to… Be Prepared! Check out our travel tips below.

If you are driving to Baja from California, we recommend that you use our Tijuana border crossing map!

Getting ready for a journey to Baja can present completely different scenarios, depending on how you plan to travel and how long you plan to stay. For many, it can be as easy as throwing a few pairs of shorts, some shirts (or blouses), and a bathing suit, or two, into a bag. For others, it can be considerably more complicated.

If you are flying to Baja, your task can be pretty easy, again, depending on the length of your stay. If you are driving, it can become as involved as preparing a well-equipped 4×4 vehicle for heavy-duty off-road use.

For others, it can mean packing of a motorhome or large trailer for a multi-month trip to a deserted beach where few supplies are available nearby. We have witnessed some really incredible examples of RV packing tricks, that defy the limits of both space and gravity.

Do I dare drive the family car to Baja? Of course, this is done every day. Make sure your vehicle has recently been serviced and be sure to check it over very, very carefully. Follow our instructions on the Be Well Prepared… The List page and remember that you are not in an off-road vehicle. You should be okay if you follow these travel tips.

Fishing-oriented travelers may have to get the boat, trailer and all of their fishing equipment dusted off and put into good working order for their next Baja adventure. Quite possibly, they will end up having to buy some extra coolers for all of the fish they are going to bring home.

For others, it may involve the prep of motorcycles or quads for the desert, dusty roads, and sandy beaches they plan to explore during their next Baja adventure.

In any case, getting ready for your first or your 30th Baja journey will usually bring on a feeling of exhilaration not usually associated with any normal vacation. Getting ready to experience “The Baja Feeling” is usually accompanied by a wonderfully exciting inner emotion.

Preparing for a drive down the Baja peninsula?

4 important travel tips.

First –  Make absolutely sure that your vehicle is up for the trip. See: Driving to Baja?   Be well prepared…The List . This should be done well before you are ready to leave.

Second –  Be sure to get a Mexican Car Insurance Policy , your U.S. car insurance policy is not good in México. Try to purchase your México auto insurance online or at one of the many insurance outlets, near all border crossings. Do not wait until you get to México! Change some dollars into pesos. Keep a bunch of small U.S. Dollar bills (1’s, 5’s, and 10’s, just in case). Do not count on all Mexican gas stations accepting your credit card (some do – some don’t). Not all gas stations will accept U.S. Dollars, although most will. Please note: You may even consider purchasing Travel Insurance !

Third –  You will need to obtain a tourist form FMM (they do not call it a Visa anymore) if you are planning on driving south of Ensenada or San Felipe on the eastern coast. For information on how and where to get your FMM, call the Mexican Consulate in San Diego at (619) 231-8414, in Phoenix at (602) 242-7398, or in Yuma at (928) 343-0066. No special auto permit or bond is necessary as long as you intend to stay on the Baja peninsula.  Alert : You may not be able to get an FMM in Ensenada, so do it at the border just to be safe.

Fourth –  First Day of Driving. Try to drive to San Quintín , El Rosario , Cataviña , or even Guerrero Negro for your first overnight stop. We often drive as far south as San Ignacio but that is really pushing the limit, for most drivers. For your second day, you may then plan a much more leisurely pace. Enjoy your drive, take in the beautiful scenery, and enjoy the abundant pleasures that Baja has to offer.

If you know just a few words of Spanish, always try to find a chance to use them, even if your pronunciation is not correct. If you know nothing of the Spanish language, try to learn a little before your trip. Just trying to speak a little Spanish can mean an awful lot to many Mexicans, who will take this as an extremely friendly gesture. Spanish for Travelers

How do I get to Baja?

It is very easy to get to Baja! The question is; which means of travel is best for you?

The very best way to experience Baja is by driving, it is usually a truly incredible experience!

If you are driving to Baja, from California, we recommend that you use our Tijuana border crossing map!

FMM Tourist Permit:

You will need to obtain a tourist permit (FMM) if you are planning on driving south of Ensenada or San Felipe on the eastern coast. You also need to get a permit if you plan to stay near the border for more than 7 days. For the best information about the FMM, call the Mexican Consulate (Visa Section) in San Diego at (619) 308-9953. The Consulate can also advise you as to what you need if you intend to travel with a pet. No special auto permit or bond is necessary as long as you intend to stay on the Baja peninsula.

The very best place to get an FMM is right after you pass through the customs lanes in Tijuana. The immigration office is on the right, just past the divided lanes. If you are staying seven days or less, the visa is free, if you are staying more than 7 days the cost is $20.00 U.S. You can request a multiple-entry visa that will be good for 180 days. If you wait until Ensenada or Guerrero Negro to get your permit, you will probably be subject to a fine (it’s not the good old days any longer) of up to $75.00 U.S. Airlines and cruise ships will provide the FMM for you.

Walking Travel Tips:

This is the poorest choice of any! Walking across the border, into México, is just not something we can recommend to anyone. It does not matter how many times you have done it in the past, walking across the border is just not a good idea. If you are thinking about taking a bus down the peninsula, think about using a U.S.-based tour company to get you to the bus station inside of México. Check the Internet yellow pages, you should be able to find a transportation company near the border that has the proper permits to take you across the border.

Airlines Travel Tips:

We do not hesitate to recommend flying into México, except for the border cities. The border cities are what you want to stay away from, for now. Flying to any location in southern Baja is the safest option. If you are planning to fly into Southern Baja, there should be no cause for any changes to your travel plans. Los Cabos, La Paz, and Loreto each have international airports, and these areas are some of the safest in all of México. Major U.S. and Mexican airlines have many flights scheduled into these airports, on a daily basis (except for Loreto).

Private Aircraft Travel Tips:

Private aircraft make flights into Baja on a daily basis. There are several remote resorts and beach camps in Baja where this actually has become one of the preferred means of travel to get to these particular locations. Private pilots must clear out of the U.S., with customs officials, and then check in with Mexican customs and immigration officials. You just reverse the situation when leaving México.

Cruise Ship Travel Tips:

Cruise ships serve Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, and Loreto. Even though we do not currently recommend visiting Ensenada, there must not have been many problems reported by their passengers. If there were any problems, the cruise lines would halt service to that destination. There are several smaller cruise lines, with much smaller boats, that offer whale-watching trips and ecological cruises out of Cabo San Lucas and La Paz.

Driving Travel Tips:

Driving is my favorite way to travel in Baja. It is a relatively easy option and this is the very best way to enjoy all of the incredible scenery that the wonderful Baja peninsula has to offer its visitors. This option offers travelers a free choice of how much time they choose to spend in each special location.

If you are driving, it is impossible to avoid the border area cities in northern Baja. With that in mind, there are some extra precautions you should be prepared to take.

If you are going to drive to Baja from anywhere east of California, we suggest you drive, at least, to Yuma, AZ on Interstate 8, before crossing the border. You can also cross the border just west of Yuma, at Andrade, CA (not recommended), or better yet, drive farther west to Calexico (recommended) where there are two places to cross the border. Crossing into Mexicali from the easternmost border crossing is your best bet. Many Baja aficionados who travel from all over the eastern U.S. prefer to cross at Tijuana. This route just seems to get you into the heart of Baja much quicker. Remember, that recent U.S. laws require you to have a passport to return to the U.S.

Bus or Shuttle Travel Tips:

You also have the option of taking a shuttle to Tijuana or a bus to Rosarito Beach. Mexicoach runs a shuttle and bus service from the parking lot by the end of the San Diego trolley line, on the U.S. side of the border.

DRIVING PRECAUTIONS : Purchase your Mexican Auto Insurance (this is a must) before you enter México. We recommend Baja Bound Insurance Services , they are reliable and they make it really easy. Cross the border as early in the morning as possible and do it with a full tank of gas and some pesos in your pocket (get these on the U.S. side of the border). When possible, try to travel in groups or small caravans. Keep an eye out for others on the road, or when you are stopped, that are driving south, and try to arrange some sort of an impromptu caravan. Try to get as far south as possible before stopping for the first night.

Try to drive to San Quintín, El Rosario, Cataviña, or even Guerrero Negro for your first overnight stop. Cataviña and Guerrero Negro are pretty long drives so plan for an early departure if this is your choice. We often drive as far south as San Ignacio, but that is not something I recommend for everyone. For your second day, you may plan a more leisurely pace. Enjoy the drive, take in the beautiful scenery, and enjoy the abundant pleasures that Baja has to offer.

***Once you arrive in México there are a few practical ways to go that extra step to assure a safe and pleasant trip. Always use common sense and avoid any overt displays of wealth, such as wearing a lot of fancy jewelry, expensive watches, or flashing large wads of cash. (If you must wear the jewelry or that Rolex, wait until you are comfortably situated in your hotel).

Remember, to always be polite and respectful of the local people. Leave the “Hurry Up” attitude at home, things happen at a much less frantic pace south of the border. Get used to it – it is very real – go with the flow and you should have an enjoyable trip.

Even if you know just a few words of Spanish, always try to find a chance to use them, even if your pronunciation is not correct. If you know nothing of the Spanish language, try to learn a little before your trip. Just trying to speak a little Spanish can mean an awful lot to many Mexicans, who will take this as an extremely friendly gesture. We have a page, “ Spanish for Baja Travelers “, that you can print and take with you, although I suggest you purchase a good Spanish language book.

There are also two ferry routes that bring travelers from mainland México to Baja. If you’re using this means of transit to arrive in Baja, you are probably already well-versed in what it takes to use the ferries, so we will not go into any detail about this method of travel. If you plan on going to the mainland from Baja, you will have to post a special bond.

So far, there have been no major problems in any areas of Southern Baja. Baja Sur is considered to be the safest place in all of México.

Baja Mileage Chart – Highway Distances

Routes, Highways, and Driving Distances in Baja, Mexico. To print this Baja mileage chart – Click on the link directly below. The map will open in a new window as a PDF file.

NOTE : The chart will print only the first section of the Baja mileage chart – “Highway 1 – Distances In Miles”

Print the Baja Mileage Chart from the open PDF window – then close the PDF window and continue browsing this site.

CLICK HERE to Print – the Baja mileage chart will open in a new window as a PDF file.

Important Telephone Numbers

Tourist Assistance – Toll-Free from anywhere in México 01 (800) 903-9200

Green Angels: (Roadside Assistance) 01 (800) 987-8224 or dial 078, where possible.

When dialing a local number from the U.S. or Canada: Dial 011 – 52 –  three-digit area code (from the list below) – dial the local number. To dial a Mexican cell phone from the U.S. – Dial 011 – 52 – 1 – three-digit area code (from the list below) – dial the local number. From within México: Dial 01 – the three-digit area code – then the local number. Locally: Just dial the number shown (as you would at home).

Emergency Telephone Numbers

Emergencies: (Police, traffic, fire, etc.) Northern Baja: 066 Southern Baja: 066

Immigration: Tijuana: (664) 636-6017 Ensenada: (646) 174-0164 La Paz: (612) 122-0429 Los Cabos: (624) 143-0135

Tourist Assistance Hotline: 078

Area Codes: Northern Baja

Tijuana: (664) Rosarito Beach: (661) Ensenada: (646) Tecate: (665) Mexicali and San Felipe: (686)

Area Codes: Southern Baja

Guerrero Negro, Santa Rosalia, Mulege: (615) Ciudad Constitucíon and Loreto: (613) La Paz and Todos Santos: (612) Los Cabos and The East Cape: (624)

Lost or Stolen Credit Cards/Travelers Check (Toll-Free)

American Express: 01 (800) 001-3600 Visa: 001 (800) 847-2911 MasterCard: 001 (800) 307-7309 Citibank: 01 (800) 849-4479

Medical Services

Dial: 066 for Police, Ambulance, or Fire from anywhere in Baja.

If you are going to be staying in an area away from a town, always check with the nearest hotel to get a local number for a doctor in the area that speaks English. Write that number down and give it to all members of your group.

Consulates & Tourism Offices

American: Tijuana: (664) 622-7400 Los Cabos: (624) 143-3566

Canadian: Tijuana: (664) 684-0461 Los Cabos: (624) 142-4333

British: (Los Cabos) (624) 173-9500 Ext. 220

Mexican Tourism Office in Los Angeles: (213) 351-2069

Banks (Toll-Free)

Banamex: 01 (800) 111-2020 Bancomer:  01 (800) 112-2999 CitiBank: 01 (800) 681-9875 Scotiabank Inverlat: 01 (800) 704-5900 HSBC: 01 (800) 712-4825

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RVing Baja, Mexico: Road Trip to Paradise

RVing Baja Mexico

Flanked by the big surf of the Pacific ocean and the tranquil Sea of Cortez, with three mountain ranges and a cactus-studded desert running up the middle, Baja is what camper dreams are made of! With basically one main road escorting you to the big highlights and a few dozen spurs into unspoiled wilderness, it’s as easy or adventurous as you want it to be.

Even though we have spent extensive time in Mexico ( housesitting , vacationing, even road tripping ) and consider this country one of our favorites in the world, we were a little nervous about RVing Baja. This is in part because Mexico is often portrayed as “dangerous” in the news, but also because we didn’t know if our slapdash RV style would fly. We wild camp in the middle of nowhere, drive well past sunset, and own a vehicle you could break into with a can opener. When we realized these were our own problems and ones we could easily fix, it was time to discover the Baja magic!  

Table of Contents

Our Baja Road Trip Route

Bahía Concepción has some of the prettiest beaches and not a single chain hotel! Driving from the Pueblo Mágico of Loreto there is a bit of a lull, but when you reach the city of La Paz and its surrounding islands and mountains, it’s wondrous all over again. Greater La Paz was even worth hopping out of the camper for a few days of island glamping on Espíritu Santo and a rancho homestay in the Sierra de La Laguna. (If you want to carry on farther south, check out this blog from a previous trip around Los Cabos ). Read on for our favorite tips from roads less traveled.  

Baja Camping 101

RVing Baja

Let’s start with the basics of camping in Baja. The average cost of an ocean-view campsite is around $7 and quite often free. To discover them, start by downloading the iOverlander app . This led us to a variety of gems, from secluded sand dunes to family-owned restaurants that let you stay in exchange for buying a burrito. The app also maps out where to find propane, fresh water, showers, dump stations, and more with their handy filters. If you like the social aspect of camping, check out the VanLife app or Xscapers to connect with fellow adventurers. FYI, camping on our own always felt totally safe and serene. To help make this happen, we didn’t drive after dark, read the comments for each iOverlander listing, and stopped going down dirt roads if rain was in the forecast (after we LEARNED THIS THE HARD WAY !).  

Tecate Border Crossing

Baja via Tecate Border

Instead of entering Mexico via the busy Tijuana crossing, we went 45 minutes inland to Tecate. This town is not just the home of Tecate brewery, but it is a Pueblo Mágico, (a special designation for Mexico’s most culturally rich and historic towns). There was one car in line and when it was our turn, the officer only asked for our car registration (not even our license or passports!) and to take a glance inside the camper before he sent us on our way. While we kept driving to make sunset in wine country, we would recommend staying a night in Tecate to get your Mexican bearings and enjoy its traditional town square, 1,500-year old cave paintings, and tour the peninsula’s most beloved brewery.  

Valle de Guadalupe: Wine Country Camping

Mexico wine country

Highway 3 carries on through beautiful mountain passes to Valle de Guadalupe’s “Ruta del Vino.” The region has been making wine for over 100 years, but the industry only started booming 20 years ago. Today there are more than 150 wineries, making it the “Tuscany of Mexico.”

For our first night in the country, we seized the opportunity to use our Harvest Hosts membership and camp at a winery (free of charge in exchange for buying a bottle). We pulled into L.A. Cetto just as the sun was hitting the mountains and casting its glow on their 4,000 acres of vines. Save from a security guard looking after the place (gracias, señor!), we had the entire place to ourselves. The next day we were happy to repay one of the country’s oldest and largest wineries with a tour and tasting. We’d also recommend Las Nubes and Bar Bura, not just for their wine but for their views of this gorgeous region.  

Punta Banda: Hot Springs & Marine Geysers

Punta Banda Baja

Less than an hour south of Ensenada (home of the original fish taco and Baja’s oldest cantina, the great Hussong’s), lies our favorite sliver of the far north: Punta Banda peninsula. It is full of natural wonders, starting with their hot spring beach! At low tide, you can see steam rising from the sand—those are your hot spots and where you want to start digging. We plunged our shovel (see our Baja packing list below) and 100-degree water bubbled up! In just fifteen minutes, we had a natural jacuzzi with views to the bluffs! Could Punta Banda get any better? It did.

At the tip of peninsula, we found Campo El Mirador , a campground on a mountain spine that drops to the sea and the famed La Bufadora marine geyser. At high tide, this blowhole shoots water up to 90 feet in the air! From your campsite, it’s a gorgeous hike through coastal succulent gardens and free when you arrive by foot! Hot Springs Intel : There is no name or sign for Punta Banda’s hot springs. This is what RVing Baja is all about! To get there, follow these GPS coordinates (31.7167, -116.6661) and park at the mini mart (good to buy some cervezas from them to earn your spot). On the right, there is unassuming long narrow path between properties that leads down to this delightful public-access beach!  

The Otherworldly Desierto Central

Desierto Central Mexico

Baja’s tourists generally stick close to the border and Los Cabos in the far south, but little do they know that Baja’s most iconic beauty lies in the middle. The Valle de los Cirios is the second largest protected natural area in Mexico, spanning from coast to coast all way to the state line with Guerrero Negro. Towns vanish and cacti are the new skyscrapers. Fifty-foot tall cardons, Dr Suess-like cirios plants, pink barrel cacti, and boulders are strewn about the sierras.

The first sign of civilization you’ll encounter is one created 1,000 years ago by the Cochimí people at the incredible Cataviña cave paintings. We took the short, steep hike and ducked into the ancient art gallery. Spared from wind and rain, the ceiling retained its vibrant depictions of dancers, animals, and geometric motifs. Rather than hike back the way we came, we climbed down the backside to the river valley for some fun rock scrambling among this palm-tree oasis.

Connectivity Tip : There is no cell service between El Rosario and Guererro Negro. Hotel Mision Cataviña offers WiFi by the hour, plus a decent restaurant, bathrooms, and a beautiful cactus garden.  

Ojo de Liebre: Communing with Gray Whales

Oje de Liebre Whale Watching

In addition to warm weather, gorgeous scenery, and fantastic people, the reason we came to Baja, Mexico is for the one-of-a-kind whale watching. Each winter hundreds of gray whales migrate from their feeding grounds in the Arctic to their breeding grounds in Baja. They come to birth and raise their calves in three Pacific lagoons: Magdalena Bay, San Ignacio, and Ojo de Liebre. With whale hunting a thing of the past, generations of whales have come to see boats and humans as a chance for friendly interactions. It seems unbelievable but mothers actively encourage their babies to approach panga boats!

So excited by this prospect, we seized the first whale-watching opportunity on our route. Leaving from Guerrero Negro with Mario’s Tours ($50 for three hours, plus lunch), eight of us hopped in a little boat and cruised along the sand dunes until we got to Ojo de Liebre. We saw whales spouting off in every direction and with patience, a mother and calf came to play with us for 25 minutes ( and we caught it on video !). Spyhopping and diving just inches from our boat, this was by far the most intimate whale encounter we have ever had. Though speaking of intimate, we later saw three whales rolling around in a courtship ritual!

Whale Watching Tip : While we loved our experience out of Guerrero Negro, the town of San Ignacio is a much cuter basecamp (a Spanish colonial charmer) and supposedly their lagoon has even friendlier whales!  

Don’t Miss These Spanish Missions

Best Missions Baja

Heading out to the Sea of Cortez, incredible Spanish colonial missions begin to appear. Starting with Misión San Ignacio Kadakaamán, you’ll drive alongside gorgeous palm-lined lagoons and this stone beauty from 1728 appears in the heart of San Ignacio village. At the start of Bahía Concepción, the expat haven of Mulegé is great for getting gringo comforts and propane refills and, of course, its mission. Tucked high above town and up a snaking side street, it’s easy to miss but well worth the efforts to see this foreboding structure overlooking the river and sea. (Interesting fact, it doubled as a stronghold in defeating the invading Americanos during the Mexican-American War of 1846-1848.)

Farther south, the 17th-century Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó is the first mission the Spanish built in the region, making it mother of all Baja and Alta California missions. If you have the time, Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó is an hour off the main road from Loreto and supposedly the prettiest of them all!

Santa Rosalía: French Baja

Baja Travel Guide

Santa Rosalía is the first real town when Highway 1 hits the Sea of Cortez, and while it’s far from the prettiest, it is the quirkiest. It was started by a French mining company in 1884 so the architecture is unlike anywhere on the peninsula, with its ornate wooden homes and a metal church designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel of Paris tower fame. The owner of the mining company, snatched it up after its appearance in the World’s Fair and had it flat packed on a boat to Baja to bring some religious sophistication to town. He also made sure they had a quality French bakery—the one and only, El Boleo. We followed our nose to this institution and a worker motioned us over for a behind-the-scenes tour of their pastry chefs making the original recipes in the 19th-century stone ovens.  

Bahía Concepción: The Best of Baja RV Beach Camping

Bahia de Concepcion

When you see those idyllic photos of Baja with turquoise waters, cactus-studded islands and white-sand beaches, it’s probably somewhere along Bahía Concepción. While there are surprisingly few tourists, there are few enclaves of snowbirds that have it all figured out. When we got to Playa Santispac, this beach cove dotted with islets took our breath away, as did the volume of RVers. We would normally be turned off by such a crowd and $10 camping fee, but something interesting was happening here. This was a world unto itself where over 100 retirees set up camp for months at a time, completely cut off from the outside world, with nothing but this stunning beach, the facilities of their RVs, and one rocking bar.

After a glorious kayak around the islands, we walked the beach chitchatting with people from Alberta, Michigan, and virtually every cold weather region in North America. Then the music sparked up! Turns out, the original Van Halen drummer winters down here and he’s formed a solid local band. We may have been 25 years younger than anyone at this party, but they were dancing us under the table until Baja Midnight (9pm) and rewriting the definition of a retirement community. For something more chill along Bahía Concepcion, Playa El Requesón is a stunning spit that fans into two coves and beaches like Playa Armenta are plenty beautiful for the price of free.  

Kayaking Bahía de Loreto National Park

            View this post on Instagram                         A post shared by Mike & Anne – HoneyTrek.com (@honeytrek) on Mar 8, 2020 at 1:31am PST

The town of Loreto is a tourist favorite with its ancient mission, ficus-tree archways, margarita happy hours…but to us, it’s all about the Bahía de Loreto National Park. This UNESCO biosphere reserve and Mexico’s largest marine preserve is ripe for island hopping, scuba diving, and kayaking. For a self-guided kayak adventure, we honed in on Isla Coronado, a volcanic island with beach coves, rock scrambling, reptile spotting (16 species!) and sand spits too shallow to be reached by motor boats.

In the protected bay there was very little wind so we cruised alongside the birds, fishies, and bobbing sea turtles. After three miles of paddling, we reached the white sand beach, without a soul on it, and hiked the black boulders to the ridge. On the way home, our arms were feeling the burn, but a sandbar island and the lunch in our drybag kept us motivated. Our craft skidded ashore, feeling like this low-tide island only emerges for adventurers like us. Kayaking Tip : For the put-in spot, follow signs to “La Picazon” restaurant and have faith that the long dirt road will get you to a good parking spot (GPS: 26.0897, -111.3256) and a short path down to the beach.  

The Road Angels of Lonchería Lupita

best roadside restaurants baja

After Bahía de Loreto, Highway 1 does a massive S-curve into the desert abyss until it swoops back out to the Sea of Cortez, and even though it’s not the most interesting stretch, we had one of our favorite cultural experiences here. It was getting dark so we consulted iOverlander and they listed “Lonchería Lupita” as a roadside cafe that’s friendly to RVers. We arrived as they were closing but instead of turning us away, the family invited us into their personal kitchen for an off-menu burrito feast complete with a mountain of steamed veggies (a vegan dream!).

While Lupita was preparing dinner, Mike and her grandson invented games with a ball and a box, while I enjoyed a chat with the patriarch. Then, in walks the daughter with her eight-day-old baby. Even though she’d only known us a few minutes, she put her newborn in my arms as if we were part of the family.  

La Paz Carnaval

La Paz Mexico Carnaval

We reached the vibrant city of La Paz, just in time for Carnaval! It’s said to be one of biggest pre-Lent celebrations in the country, so if you’re arriving in February, try to align your trip with the festivities ( dates here ). This five-day festival takes over the malecón (seaside promenade) with parades, bands, rides, games, and countless food stalls. With our expat friend Kristen Gill as an accomplice, we dove head first into the carnaval revelry. We cheered on the parade, sampled junk food, drank the legendary Doble Canalas (beer, clamato, and vodka), danced at every bandstand, and rode the swirling swings for 360-views over town.  

Bahía de La Paz: Snorkeling with Whale Sharks

Whale Shark Tour La Paz Baja

Every winter upwards of 100 adolescent whale sharks come to feed in the Bay of La Paz. While this happens in various locations around the world, this is one of the most accessible and responsibly managed destinations for these wildlife encounters (read: no feeding or crowding). We went on a full-day boat trip with RED Travel , a Baja leader in sustainable tourism, and it exceeded our expectations. To make sure the whale sharks have ample space, a limited amount of boats can be in the sanctuary at any time. The good news is, “waiting your turn” means a boat trip into the archipelago to see rare birds like the blue-footed boobies, the San Rafaelito sea lion colony, and Balandra Beach (known to be one of Mexico’s most beautiful).

After a whale shark orientation by our brilliant young guide and biologist, Andrea Quintero, we were ready to swim with the world’s largest fish. The main rule is to stay out of their path (as docile as they are, they move like freight train). We swam alongside a baby, then a 25-footer, marveling at their gorgeous spotted skin, swishing fins, and the symbiotic fishes hitching a ride.

Swimming with Dolphins in Bahia de La Paz

As if our wildlife encounters couldn’t get better, a pod of dolphins was diving around our boat and our guide asked, “Want to swim with them?” With a heck yea, we dove back in and were eye-to-eye with a half dozen bottlenose beauties! To end the perfect day, we docked on a deserted beach for ceviche (cod or quinoa style), cervezas, and sunbathing. See this incredible day on film, here .  

Glamping Isla Espíritu Santo

Featured in our book Comfortably Wild: The Best Glamping Destinations in North America , Camp Cecil earns its spot in the “Safari” chapter and our hearts. During our three days on the island we cruised alongside dolphins, swam with baby sea lions, and spotted birds rarely seen outside of the Galapagos. Better yet, whenever we sailed or paddled back to camp, fine food and fabulous tents awaited us with big smiles. Watch this video —it’s time to go glamping Baja style!  

Ranchero Culture in the Sierra de la Laguna

Trips to Sierra de la Laguna

The Sierra de La Laguna is also a UNESCO biosphere reserve, recognized for its contrasting ecosystems and volume of endemic species. Our two favorite tour operators Todos Santos Eco Adventures and RED Travel both offer trips here. As tempting as it was to try the brand new Camp Cecil de La Sierra glamp camp, we were excited to try an overnight trip with RED and learn more about their Mexican culture and reforestation programs. We arrived to the fourth-generation Mesa family ranch and were welcomed with a vegetarian feast. Sitting on their terrace, surrounded by tropical fruits and looking out to the rolling cow pastures, we started to see the interconnectedness of life on the ranch and food on the table.

Tortilla-Making in La Paz

Over the course of two days, Ricardo showed us how to milk cows and Cristina taught us to turn that fresh milk into cheese. We visited the neighbors who proudly showed us their thriving vegetable fields. In the evening, we spent time in the thatch-roof kitchen learning the art of tortilla-making, over the same comal Richie’s mother cooked on 70 years ago. As we were eating dinner, our guide spotted a pair of endemic elf owls and it inspired a nocturnal safari that lasted until 11pm, followed by another birdwatching session at sunrise. Despite its UNESCO status, the Sierra de la Laguna is being threatened by mineral exploration.

To prove that the cultural value of the Sierras is greater than the proceeds of mining, we need families like the Mesas, tour operators like RED, and tourists like you. Check out RED’s environmental and community initiatives here .  

Returning North

Road Tripping Baja Route 5

While it could be a bummer to retrace a 1,000-mile route, Baja is so gorgeous it’s worth a second pass. Plus, the recently paved Highway 5 makes it easy to switch things up with a drive along the Sea of Cortez to the Mexicali border. We cruised into the desert abyss, then Gonzaga Bay appeared like a mirage. Big mountains, sweeping beach coves, and islands spiking out of the sea, it was Baja at its rawest beauty. We pulled into the Papa Fernandez campground, where they charged us a whole $5 to camp on a million dollar beach (GPS: 29.8321, -114.4028) with only one other RV.

Further up the coast, make sure to stop at the unassuming town of Puertecitos and their ocean hot springs at low tide, when their rock pools hit the perfect temperature. For our last night on the Sea of Cortez, we stayed in the sleepy tourist town of San Felipe, walking the malecón, drinking margaritas, and toasting to one heck of a trip.  

Mexicali & Mechanics All Over Baja

RV Repairs in Baja Mexico

As we were approaching the Mexicali border, it dawned on us that Mexico has some of the best and most affordable mechanics and we’d be remiss to not get a little more work done. We pulled into Super Mofles to weld a crack in our manifold downpipe, partly because it was a good deal, but also because auto shops had proved to be a priceless opportunity for cultural exchange. When we got our leaf springs done at Muelles Verdugo in La Paz, we felt so fortunate to spend the day with a pair of brothers in a medieval-style blacksmith shop passed down from their father, where they were literally reshaping metal with a coal fire, an anvil, and brute force.

We bonded and as a tip, we gave their adorable son my old Razor scooter and them a six pack of beer so we could raise a glass to their incredible work. All told we got a new muffler ($55), catalytic converter ($100), welded manifold downpipe ($10), oil change ($5), rebuilt front sway bar + bushings ($25), four new leaf springs (quoted at $1,100 in the US and $180 in Mexico), and an even better Buddy the Camper. From the Verdugo brothers welding to Lupita’s luncheonette, the warmth of the Mexican people is as strong as the sunshine.  

RVing Baja, Mexico: Planning and Packing

RVing Baja Mexico

We love Baja and hope you fell in love with it too. Looking forward to your thoughts and questions in the comments below!

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Wow! What an adventure! I want to re-create this so bad. You had me at wine country camping. I’ve always wanted to see more of Mexico and this really is pushing me to go as soon as we get the chance. I love that some of the older folks were able to dance you guys under the table – that’s great! Also, I’ve found people in Mexico to be the most sincere, kind, and familial. The fact that your new friend felt comfortable allowing you to hold her most precious treasure, her newborn in your arms says it all. Exceptional post!

You totally should re-create it Stephanie. It was honestly one of the coolest road trips we have ever done. Most people just fly to Cabo, or go to the border town of Tijuana…and they totally skip all the magic in the middle! And you are spot on about the beauty of the Mexican people, they are so warm and giving (contrary to what the media would have you believe)

Baja is a place that has been on our travel wish list for awhile. We had a small taste test when we went wine tasting in Ensenada as a cruise port stop. We too were surprised with how great the wine from this region was. I can see why it would be a great spot for an RV trip. Some of those camping spots look simply stunning! I love that mix of desert and cactus with roaring seas! So cool that you were there when the grey whales visited. But scuba diving with whale sharks is on our absolute travel wish list. What an amazing experience that must have been!

Valle de Guadelupe was quite sophisticated and Ensenada is definitely getting trendier with its microbreweries and vegan food stalls. Though our favorite part of that area was just south on Punta Banda…it would actually be an easy weekend trip from San Diego if you’re ever that way! Baja is so darn pretty, all our camping spots were incredible and oh my goodness, the whale sharks! Hope you get back down to Baja!

I love it! This has always been. dream of mine and I love how thorough you were with your guide! Some of my must sees are the Marine Geysers and the whale watching! Cap it off with some whale sharks, I don’t think I’ll ever leave!

Glad you enjoyed it Joe! We felt the exact same way…we totally didn’t want to leave, and we are already planning our return, once this COVID madness is over.

Baja looks like it has everything! The outdoors, amazing beaches, those gray whales, good food, and of course wine tasting. Just added it to my list when I eventually get south of the border!

It has all of those things….and so much more! We spent 3 weeks there, and we EASILY could have spent 3 months on the peninsula!

I love road trips by RV. Last year we traveled for six months in a camper truck from Alaska to Florida. But we would like to make a similar trip to Mexico. I have added the places you guys visited to my list. Especially Valle de Guadelupe, because we are also wine lovers. And Punta Banda because we love hot springs, and when we only have a chance, we visit hot springs. And I would love to kayaking Bahía de Loreto National Park. You had such a beautiful adventure!

Hey Agnes, welcome! You guys did a road trip from Alaska for Florida….for serious? Did you do any blogs about it? Mexico was soooooo amazing, and so much safer than we thought (or rather, were told by the news) it would be! Thanks for the love girl!

This looks like the perfect life. I usually go with my car and stay in camping grounds, and my dream is to have a van or a camper to have the whole house with me. RVing Baja in Mexico looks an amazing destination, I’d love to be able to camp or glamp there one day. How long have you been traveling around?

Oh yeah camper/rv/van through Baja is the ONLY way to explore it (in our humble opinion)…we have been traveling North America full time for 3 years, and we can’t imagine a better way to see the continent!

Wow! This looks amazing! I haven’t had the courage to go RVing, but it is something that I have always wanted to do 🙂 You had me at the wine tasting, then I started seeing all the pics and I fell hard! The Ranchero Culture in the Sierra de la Laguna looked very unique, so raw and true. I always try to dive in the local culture of the places I travel to. Thank you so much for sharing this with us!

Lulia, oh wow, thanks for the lovely reply. You TOTALLY need to try the RV style. It is such a unique way to meet people, and also to explore a country…because you are no longer bound by the city centers and where the public transportation goes. You can really get out in the country and into places most people never visit!

I love your photos at Bahía de Loreto National Park!

My husband and I are planning to do some boondocking in Baja. Curious on what type of auto insurance coverage you purchased? Full coverage or liability?

Baja is incredible, you’ll have a blast! We Sanborn’s liability insurance.

Greetings! My husband and met in San Felipe, Baja 31 years ago. On a subsequent trip we made it all the way to Baja de Los Angeles. It has been on our list to travel the whole of Baja by vehicle.

We are now 64 and 60 years old and we have another adventure to plan! We are looking at starting our trip in 12 months when we get ‘off the wheel’ – so to speak.

We will down size our home of 20+ years into a 5th wheel and rent the house out! Whoo hoo!

Putting this plan in writing makes me so excited as it makes it more real!

Your tips and guide are just what I was looking for to help in the process.

Kim & Steve Rapholz Ojai, California

Kim & Steve, congrats on the big downsize and upcoming adventures! We gave up our house 10 years ago for a life of travel it was the best decision we ever made! We love helping more people hit the road…have you checked out our Trip Coach page: http://www.HoneyTrek.com/TripCoach ? We’ve helped 60+ people successfully hit the road for multi-month and multi-year journeys and hope we can do the same for you!

Your trip sounded perfect, incredible write up! Thank you! I want to leave for a Baja trip next week and this answered many questions I had.

One question that comes to mind is: How fluent are you two in Spanish? If you are fluent how did that impact the trip and same question if you are not fluent.

I know very little Spanish and wonder if this trip would be best next winter with more knowledge of the language, or take this trip and learn with the locals lol?

So glad our post was helpful! Anne is close to fluent and I know a good bit of Spanish so it’s hard to gauge how hard a trip would be without it but what we do know is that the locals are incredibly friendly and that most have enough English to understand what you’re saying…and of course use however much Spanish you have to show you’re trying. Don’t wait…go for it!

Hi, I’m so thrilled that I landed in your Baja blog. I too have a Sunrader and just wanted to learn about how the roads were for your SR. Any tips for preparing my toyhome? I’m heading south in a few weeks!

Thanks and enjoy the holiday season!!! Ruby

yay for Sunraders!!! You’ll love Baja, just check the weather before you go off-roading so you don’t get in too deep. Did you see our “Boondocking Gone Wrong” article? that’s what I’m talking about lol. So glad you enjoyed our post and have so much fun in Baja…it’s camper heaven!!!

We went on a full-day boat trip with RED Travel, a Baja leader in sustainable tourism, and it exceeded our expectations. Nice post thank you!

That’s fantastic! Love RED and so glad you enjoyed our post : )

Thanks for the great article !! I would love to go . I’m a full time solo female rv ‘er. Is it safe , do able for someone traveling alone ?

So glad you enjoyed the article! Baja felt very safe…met lots of solo travelers and also groups to tap into when you wanted company. Lots of vanlife meetups and communities of rvers. Have so much fun!

Awesome read….I have always wanted to take our RV to Baja….i think you just gave us the courage to do it!

Hi. What a fantastic story about your adventure in Baja. I am solo female traveler with a 25 foot 2019 Ford Transit based class C motorhome (Leisure Travel Van). It has very low clearance and it’s only a rear wheel drive. Would it be possible to replicate your route with such a vehicle? I’m a little concerned about getting stuck in soft sand when beach boondocking. Thanks.

Besides our renegade “boondocking gone wrong” experience, which is largely because we didn’t check the weather and you never want to drive down sandy/clay roads around a rainstorm, we were totally fine. Our camper is an old dog, you’re 2019 Transit will do great! have so much fun!!!!

Hi, Anne and Mike! Thank you for sharing your experience. I’ve read a few posts on RVing Baja because it’s a trip I’m looking forward to do soon and yours is the one I liked the most. I was wondering if this will be a suitable trip to do with a five year old kid and a toddler. What do you think? Thank you again! Ber

Hey Bernardo. Thanks for your kind words about our Baja RVing blog post…glad we were your favorite.

As for Baja, it felt SUPER SUPER safe. And I would say it’s the perfect trip for people of any age. So many amazing beaches to explore, hikes through MASSIVE cactuses, and just super friendly people at every turn. P.S. Just don’t plan to spend much time in Cabo, it’s super touristy and hella expensive 🙂

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WE'RE THE RUSSOS

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Beach Camping in Baja

RV Travel in Baja California – Everything We Learned

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We recently completed our first RV trip to Baja California and in this post we’ll share everything we learned and tips for your Baja camping adventure . This guide will cover getting a Mexican Tourist Card, Baja auto insurance, Mexican customs restrictions, border crossing into Baja, driving in Baja, getting fuel in Baja, safety, beach camping, and other resources for RV travel in Baja.

RV Travel in Baja Beach Camping

RV Travel in Baja

Going to Baja in an RV has been on our travel bucket list since we started full-time RVing in 2015. When Bob Wohler’s of Off-Road Safety Academy announced he was offering a guided tour through Baja California, we both jumped at the opportunity. Check out our Overland Tours and Events Roundup .

Both Baja peninsulas are popular Mexico travel destinations for RVers and our week long trip did not disappoint. Watch our Baja travel video below or keep reading.

Table of Contents

Mexican Tourist Card (FFM) for Baja

Mexican Tourist Card FMM

We each applied for a Mexican Tourist Card or FFM for our Baja California trip. The process to obtain the FFM was very easy through the Instituto Nacional de Migración website . After paying $575 Pesos per application we each received an email to download and print our Mexican tourist card.

You can also obtain a FFM at the INM office when you cross the border into Mexico. Since we were on a group tour, everyone applied for their FFM online and brought a printed copy. Make sure to print a copy of your FFM receipt to show the INM office at the border crossing. Otherwise, you may have to pay the fee again before you can get the official stamp, which someone on our tour experienced.

Baja Auto Insurance

There are several insurance carriers based in the United States that specialize in Baja auto insurance policies. Because we were on a guided Baja caravan trip, we were required to purchase our auto policy through Baja Bound . One of the reasons everyone on the group tour was required to use the same Baja insurance carrier was so that if any of the RVs had an issue, there was only one number to call rather than trying to figure out who has which insurance.

If you’re not required to purchase through a specific insurance carrier for your Baja RV trip, be sure to shop around and check with your U.S. auto and RV insurance provider. We’ve used Progressive and Geico for our auto and RV insurance in the United States and both companies offer Mexico auto insurance coverage.

Make sure to do your research and understand the policy you are getting. In my article on RV Safety and Preparedness , one of the tips is to understand your policies before you need them. Talk to the insurance agent and read through the policy so you know what is covered and what is not covered.

Baja Bound Insurance Experience

Baja Bound is an insurance broker. They work with multiple companies so you have options when deciding which policy is right for you. The experience of purchasing our auto insurance through Baja Bound was very good. Shauna was our contact and she promptly responded to all our questions via e-mail and on the phone.

Since we own a heavily modified 2000 F350 truck and pop-up camper we wanted to make sure the aftermarket upgrades were covered by the policy. We were able to set a cash value for the truck and a separate cash value for the camper. For nine days and the maximum liability limit, our policy ended up costing just over $300.

When you get a quote through Baja Bound , you can check for daily rate, 6 month rate, or an annual rate. Since we were on a seven night, eight day Baja tour, we opted for the daily rate. We also had the option of extending our coverage while we were there but we’re told it had to be done during the week while the office was open. If you plan to spend an extended amount of time in Baja, it may be more economical to purchase a six month or even an annual auto policy.

The good news is we did not need to use our Baja Bound insurance while traveling in Baja. That means I can’t provide any feedback on that part of the experience with Baja Bound.

Driving a Financed Vehicle in Baja

Are you driving a financed vehicle to the Baja peninsula? Be sure to contact your lien holder about their requirements for taking the vehicle across the border into Mexico. Below are some articles we found on driving a financed vehicle to Baja including information on whether you need an official letter of permission.

Crossing Into Mexico with a Financed Vehicle

How to Drive Financed Vehicles into Mexico

Vehicle Permits and Financed Vehicles

Mexican Customs Restrictions

Whenever we travel to another country, we always look up the customs regulations for that country. This is especially important when traveling in an RV because we’re bringing our home on wheels and what’s allowed in one country may not be allowed in another or the amount may be limited. Going to Mexico is not our first international border crossing, we have visited several Canadian Provinces in an RV.

So what should you bring to Baja? Or more importantly, what can you bring to Baja Mexico? Visit the Mexican Customs website for the most up to date information on how to clear customs at the Baja Mexico border. There is a section on item/goods you cannot bring into Mexico as well as answers to other questions.

To make it easy on ourselves, we arrived with a few beers chilling in the fridge and opted to purchase fresh produce and other food items as we traveled around Baja.

Since we purchased our insurance through Baja Bound, we read many of the resource articles on their website about traveling to Baja in a vehicle. This post details what items you can bring driving into Baja .

Border Crossing by Land into Baja Mexico

Border Crossing by Land US to Baja Mexico

There are several border crossing options when driving from the United States to Baja Mexico. Our caravan of nine campers crossed at Puerto Mexicali II on a Sunday morning and had a very smooth border crossing.

Prior to crossing, our guide held a group meeting and checked everyone’s documents to make sure we had everything in order. He had sent a very detailed email to each of us so we knew what we had to bring. When we arrived at the border, our tour guide presented an official invitation letter from the Baja Tourism Board to the immigration office.

All nine vehicles pulled into the inspection area where the agents asked us questions and inspected our campers. There was also a dog working the area and sniffing the vehicles. We were not asked to open our fridge or any of the storage bays and cabinets in our camper. The border agent was very friendly and had limited English. After the inspection we walked over to the immigration office to show our passports, turn in the “Entrada” portion of our FFM and get the “Salida” portion stamped.

Before You Go Checklist

Whether you’re going on a guided tour of Baja or exploring on your own, put together your own Before You Go Checklist. This list may include your RVing tool kit , essential RV gear , your travel water filter and items specific for international travel.

This Before You Go Checklist contains items that you may not have considered, but are good to have on your list. It’s also good practice to check the U.S. Department of State’s page on traveling to Mexico for the latest information and travel advisories.

One important tip I want to share with you is to bring copy of your FMM receipt. When we crossed the border into Baja, a couple people in our group did not have a printed copy of their receipt and had to pay the fee again at the immigration office.

Driving in Baja California

Driving in Baja California

We drove a good portion of Baja California, but we did not make it down to Baja California Sur. Our experience of driving in Baja was very good. The roads were well paved, the road signs were easy to read and follow, and when we did get off the pavement, the sand was hard packed with some ruts and washboard sections.

Despite being well paved, many sections of the road were very narrow with no shoulder and drop offs on either side. We encountered many large semi-trucks which had us slowing down and hugging the edge of the pavement. The local drivers tended to speed and would pass at any opportunity, even in blind curves – so watch out! We got in one situation on a two lane road where we had cars 3-4 wide all passing at the same time! Many of our road rules don’t apply in Mexico so be very aware.

To give you an idea, we drove Mexico 5 south through San Felipe to an off-road detour to Coco’s Corner before getting back on Mexico 5 towards Mexico 1 to Bahia de los Angeles. From there we made our way north on Mexico 1 to Ensenada then drove Mexico 3 to Tecate then ended up on Mexico 2D, which is a toll road that got us to the Otay Mesa Land Port of Entry. In total, we drove over 800 miles in Baja California.

Baja California Maps

Baja California Maps

We downloaded the NatGeo Baja California map on our Gaia GPS mobile app , which came in very handy. The app also tracked our entire trip which we can export or share with friends. See our post on Essential Apps for RVing for other apps we use while traveling.

gaiagps

If you prefer to have paper maps, both of NatGeo Baja maps are available for purchase on Amazon.

Tips for Driving in Baja

Do a quick search for Baja driving tips and you’ll find some common tips that are mentioned over and over again. The most popular one we came across was don’t drive at night , which we never did.

Once we got on the road in Baja we understood why it’s not recommended to drive at night. The roads can get very narrow and sharing the road with large trucks when it’s dark just did not seem like a good idea. Plus, shoulders often had a steep drop off, if there was a shoulder for that section of the highway.

Baja Bound has an extensive article on Baja driving tips that includes paperwork to have with you and dealing with the police during traffic violations.

Gas and ULSD Diesel in Baja

Baja Gas Stations Pemex

Pemex (Petróleos Mexicanos) is the state owned chain of gas stations in Baja. We did see Arco, BP and Chevron stations throughout our trip, but we only added fuel at Pemex. Out of the nine campers on our Baja trip, five ran on gas and four ran on diesel, including our truck. One of the diesel trucks required Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) which was available at every station we stopped for fuel.

The NatGeo Baja map had gas and diesel stations clearly marked, which made it easier to plan our next fuel stop. Our guide recommended filing up as often as we stopped because the next station could be out of fuel.

Since we have a 51 gallon after market fuel tank , we didn’t have to fill up as often as other people on the tour. At the Pemex station, there was always a separate area for the diesel pumps and these have a black handle, not the green that we’re used to in the United States.

Diesel and ULSD in Baja

At each gas station, we had to wait for an attendant to come by and pump the fuel for us and we always paid in cash. The fuel prices didn’t vary too much in Baja California, but we noticed it was less expensive on the Pacific side compared to the Sea of Cortez side.

Most of the gas stations had very clean bathrooms with toilet paper, trash cans and a market to buy snacks and supplies. At one Pemex station we even bought a delicious seeded watermelon out of the bed of a truck in the parking lot.

Military Checkpoints

Military Checkpoint Baja Mexico

Depending on where you go in Baja, you’ll likely come across one or more military checkpoints. The first military checkpoint we encountered was right before San Felipe heading south on Mexico 5. That one felt slightly intimidating because it was our first one and we didn’t know what to expect. They asked us where we were going and asked us to open the camper so they could take a look inside. Then we were waved through the check point and pulled over to wait for the rest of the group.

These military check points are part of traveling in Baja and vary in terms of how in depth they examine the camper and what questions they ask. At one military check point, they opened both of our backpacks and looked through the contents.

Everyone we encountered was friendly and some spoke a very limited amount of English. Kait and I both used the tiny bit of Spanish we knew to engage in casual conversations.

A note regarding medications – when our backpacks were checked, the officer went through each pocket, looking over the items. Of note, he pulled out the bottle of generic Excedrin I carry and asked about it. When he realized it was “like Aspirin,” he seemed content and put it back. If you do carry prescriptions, make sure to look up what documentation you need to show it’s a prescription. We would advise against putting any pills, etc in unmarked containers and they may raise concerns if you’re searched.

Beach Camping in Baja

Beach Camping in Baja

There is plenty of beach camping in Baja California on the Sea of Cortez side as well as the Pacific Ocean side. Before we started our Baja trip, our guide recommended the book Traveler’s Guide to Camping Mexico’s Baja: Explore Baja and Puerto Peñasco with Your RV or Tent . It’s a good resource to have before and during your Baja trip.

Beach camping on the Sea of Cortez side was one of the highlights of our trip through Baja. Our favorite spot was Playa La Gringa in Bahía de los Ángeles . Expect to be boondocking as it’s a primitive camping area with no hookups or amenities. There were a few trashcans scattered along the beach. It was very peaceful and quiet during our stay and the water was nice and calm for kayaking.

Since we were on a guided tour, we didn’t have to worry about finding campgrounds each night, but if we were to go back on our own, we would also reference iOverlander to finding camping in Baja.

The campground amenities in Baja varied as will the price. We stayed at basic campgrounds without any hookups and very basic amenities. These campground cost between $10 and $40 per night and one of the most basic campground was also the most expensive.

Some campgrounds in Baja had flushing toilets and cold water showers, others had hot showers, flushing toilets and even fresh water to fill your tanks. Read our post on water filtration systems for RVs .

None of the campgrounds we stayed at had toilet paper in the bathrooms so we always made sure to bring our own.

Food and Drink in Baja California

Fish Tacos in Bahia de los Angeles

While one of the perks of RV travel in Baja is having your home with you, we still enjoyed sampling the local fare.

Of course the number one item on our list of things to eat in Baja were fish tacos . China’s Place walk up taco stand in Bahía de los Ángeles had great made to order tacos. We enjoyed the fish and shrimp tacos so much we ended up going back for round two. There is a convenience store next door where you can grab an ice cold beer to enjoy with the tacos.

Tostadas at La Guerrerense in Ensenada

The best food we had in Baja were tostadas at La Guerrerense in Ensenada. We decided to break away from our tour on the last day in order to try these amazing tostadas. Everything we ordered was amazing including the shrimp ceviche and the tostada especial with cod and octopus topped with sliced avocados.

There was no shortage of great food in Baja California. With the exception of the tostada spot, all the restaurants we found were by walking around. One of Joe’s favorite restaurants served Sinaloa style grilled chicken with freshly made tortillas.

Safety and RV Travel in Baja

Safety RV Travel in Baja

When we told friends and family we were going to Baja, one questions we kept getting was “Is it safe to travel through Baja California?” We did not have any safety concerns traveling in Baja Mexico. That said, it is so important to be prepared and have safety plans in place when you’re out on the road.

The current times have taught us how crucial it is to not get caught off guard and have to scramble when emergencies arise. It’s also important to not let fear stop you from living the life you want , but preparing for all scenarios will serve you well if things go wrong.

We recommend taking these steps to ensure you’re prepared for whatever comes your way while traveling. Read our post on RV safety .

Border Crossing by Land Back to United States

Border Crossing Mexico to US

Crossing the border back into the United States from Baja California was quite the memorable experience for us.

We got in line at the Tecate Port of Entry around 1 p.m. on Sunday afternoon and we could see the truck campers from the tour were about 20-30 cars in front of us. The line was inching along when we received a call from our guide telling us that the border hours of operation had changed due to the pandemic. Any vehicles that didn’t make it passed the gate by 2 p.m. would have to go to another border crossing.

Unfortunately we missed the cut off by a few vehicles and drove to Otay Mesa Port of Entry. We ended up in line for five hours before finally getting back to the U.S. The big lesson here is to double check the hours for the port of entry and don’t assume it will be open during the hours posted (Tecate’s border crossing was still listed as being open until 10pm). Also, have at least one backup border crossings with driving directions.

While waiting in line in Otay Mesa to get back to the U.S., we saw a wide variety of food vendors, trash collectors, and even entertainment along the route. There were also signs for public restrooms, which we did not use since we had our portable camping toilet in the camper.

Be prepared for a long wait (we were in line at Otay Mesa for over five hours) and don’t forget to check the U.S. customs regulations on things such as items to declare, duty-free limits, and prohibited items. Check out Baja Bound’s post on re-entering the U.S. from Mexico .

Resources for RV Travel in Baja

There are a variety of resources on RV travel in Baja. Here is a list of the ones that we used (some have been mentioned above):

  • Baja Mexico Auto Policy through Baja Bound
  • Traveler’s Guide to Camping Mexico’s Baja
  • iOverlander Mobile App
  • NatGeo Baja maps for Gaia GPS Mobile App
  • NatGeo Paper Maps of Baja
  • Mexican Customs
  • U.S. Customs and Border Protection

That’s it! I hope you found this post helpful in planning your own RV trip to Baja California.

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10 thoughts on “rv travel in baja california – everything we learned”.

We’re hoping to travel to Baja this fall in our 4WD camper which runs on ULSD Diesal. We were wondering how far south you an travel and reliably get it. We have an auxiliary after market fuel tank so we can put in sixty gallons at a time. What is the furthest south city where we’ll be able to fill up? We’d ideally like to get to Loreto. Thank-you very much for any help you can give us.

Thanks, Mary

Hi Mary – from my understanding and research, all of Baja has ULSD. During our trip there, most of the other diesel trucks required ULSD and they had no problems. I would suggest doing some more research to confirm this before going down because there is no indication on the pumps, etc what kind of diesel it is. I also remember reading that even those who knew Spanish well and could ask the attendants, the attendants had no idea.

Hi guys, we love following your adventures! We are retired and enjoy taking road trips in our 30 ft fifth wheel. Is this a trip we can take without guides and feel safe and able to find good spots to camp in a bigger rig? We want to do a trip from Baja to Canada. We need all the advice we can get! Thanks! The Greshams

We felt safe but that’s all relative and how comfortable you are. Speaking Spanish would definitely help (we don’t) but you can get along with only English. There’s all different sizes of camping options and most places we went had more than enough room for larger rigs. Just be careful of driving in sand.

hi guys, my question for you: do i need a special permit to drive a utility trailer 6×12 in baja california with my artwork? thank you

I don’t believe you need a special permit but you need to have the trailer registered in your name. I’d suggest asking the insurance company when you call to get your Mexico vehicle insurance as they will have a better idea.

Great read on travelling Baja! Very informative and down to earth. We’ll be back for more of your stories and advice. Safe travel

Thanks for all the useful info! We are headed there in October! What tour group did you use?

We went with Bob of Off-Road Safety Academy.

Hi Joe & Kait, love the information, thanks. Going to Mex in a 4×4 is something my husband and I have talked about doing.

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travel in baja

RV and Motorhome Travel in Baja

The Baja Peninsula is a popular destination for travelers with RVs and motorhomes. With the warm winter weather, beautiful beaches, delicious food, outdoor activities, and Mexican hospitality, Baja is a perfect spot for snowbirds and adventurous travelers.

RV Parks with Full Hookups

There are over 100 RV friendly campsites throughout Baja California. These facilities range from minimal campgrounds to large RV parks with full hook ups. Check out our picks for some Baja RV parks with full hookups on the peininsula.

Mexican Auto Insurance for your RV

Discover Baja is pleased to offer Mexican auto insurance for your motorhome or RV. Both full coverage and liability-only policies are available. Our special super-saver policies (available only for Discover Baja members) are valid for a full year and can save you hundreds of dollars if you will be spending less than 120 days out of the year in Baja. You can learn more or get a quote on our Mexican Auto Insurance for RVs and Motorhomes Page .

Resources for RVing in Baja

  • We recommend getting a copy of the book “Camping Mexico’s Baja” by Mike & Terri Church for a full list of campsites and RV parks on the peninsula.
  • A good Baja map  is another important essential.

DBTC Insider Tips for RVing in Baja

  • For large RVs and motorhomes (and/or if you are towing units), the Mexicali East border crossing is an easy border crossing to use because there is plenty of space and the border crossing avoids the congestion of town.
  • Diesel gas is available throughout the peninsula. Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) is widely available throughout most of Baja California (Norte), but is currently not available in Baja California Sur.
  • Roads can be narrow and windy along highway Mexico 1. It’s especially important for larger vehicles to drive slowly (we recommend keeping it under 50 mph) and only during daylight hours.
  • As with driving any vehicle in Baja, it’s recommended that you bring spare parts for your rig as specific parts can be difficult to find in certain areas of the peninsula.

travel in baja

Is It Safe to Travel to Ensenada in Baja California, Mexico?

B aja California awoke to tragedy on Sunday, May 5. The bodies of three surfers had been discovered, tragically murdered under mysterious circumstances. The case is still under investigation, but it is believed that they were killed resisting a carjacking, CNN reported . The incident has sent shock waves through the tight-knit surfing community and the community of travelers who have been touring Baja for years. It has prompted concerns about the region's safety among travelers looking to take a trip to the peninsula.

The victims, identified as Jack Carter Rhoad (an American) and Australian brothers Jake and Callum Robinson, were found with gunshot wounds to the head. According to CBS News , the suspect in custody, Jesus Gerardo "N", aka "El Kekas," is being prosecuted. The three men had been camping in a remote beachside area when they were killed in what investigators are saying was a robbery attempt.

"Our hearts are broken and the world has become a darker place for us," Debra Robinson, the mother of the two Australian brothers, said in a tribute . "They were young men enjoying their passion of surfing together."

The crime is a stark reminder of the inherent risks associated with travel to any destination, no matter how idyllic it may seem. It also is a reminder to travelers to be extremely vigilant.

"The incident took place in a remote region, and the victims were wild-camping alone with no facilities, campground, or other infrastructure-no electricity, mobile phone connectivity, or even paved roads," Zach Rabinor, CEO of Journey Mexico , a luxury destination management company based in Mexico, told a concerned client-a response he then shared with Afar.

We need to keep in mind that this is a random act of violence and not the case for most of the Baja.

Rabinor's advice to travelers in the region is to avoid overnighting and wild-camping in remote areas. If you are going to adventure, it is best to travel in groups, even during the day, with a local expert planning and leading the expedition-an expert who has access to real-time, local intelligence.

"We offer our clients fully guided trip extensions in Baja," said Todd Smith, founder and president of AdventureSmith Explorations , an expedition cruise and wilderness tour operator with tours to Baja. "A lot of people in North America don‘t realize this is a thing. You can go to the islands in the Sea of Cortez. You can go to beautiful beaches with not a soul around. There is this great adventure, and it‘s so cool. We want to raise awareness that fully guided trips are a thing in Baja."

If you are traveling on your own, staying in reputable hotels or marked campsites is always the safer choice.

"There's no boondocking in Baja. It's all private land," said Nathan Stuart, co-founder and guide with Legends Overlanding . "If you're somewhere where you think you're in the middle of nowhere and you think you're staying for free, you're only staying for free if the owner doesn't come and charge you."

The Mexican state of Baja California borders California. It is home to popular tourist destinations like Tijuana, Rosarito, and Ensenada. When it comes to tourism, Mexico is generally considered a safe destination for travelers, and any attacks directly involving tourists are extremely rare. Still, Mexico is a country that has its share of crime and corruption, like many other countries in the world. Violent crime, including kidnapping and human trafficking, is a risk in parts of the country. As of August 2023, the U.S. State Department has issued a Level 3 classification for the state of Baja California, advising visitors to "reconsider travel," specifically because of crime and kidnapping.

"The aggression to these three people, a regrettable attack, had nothing to do with these three being surfers. They were killed because they were at the wrong moment," said Baja California Attorney General María Elena Andrade Ramírez in a taped press conference.

Baja California is not the only tourist destination in the world with a Level 3 advisory. Guatemala, Colombia, and Jamaica also share Level 3 status .

"It‘s also important to put this into perspective in the context of international travel," Rabinor‘s response continued, noting that violent acts occur throughout the world, including in developing and developed countries, such as the United States, the United Kingdom, and others.

While the incident was an unexpected and horrific tragedy, many parts of Baja are still considered safe, including the tourist areas of Ensenada and Rosarito, as well as the tourist destinations in the southern half of the peninsula in the state of Baja California Sur.

Baja California Sur, which has a Level 2 advisory , is home to popular resort destinations such as Los Cabos, Todos Santos, La Paz, and Loreto.

"I am so devastated about what happened to these young men. As a parent I cannot imagine the grief [theirs] are dealing with," said Sharon Walters, founder of Sharon Walters Travel , and a homeowner in Baja California Sur. "Unfortunately, the border towns between the U.S. and Mexico along the northern part of Baja can sometimes be a difficult place to visit. While this part of Baja has endless beautiful beaches, there is an element of danger here due to lack of policing and remote locations."

She added, "Just as you would in any location, it is best to stick to the touristed areas and check with locals and hotel staff about what places to avoid. When something like this happens in Mexico, it seems to get extra bad press than it would in other countries. But we need to keep in mind that this is a random act of violence and not the case for most of the Baja."

The tragedy highlights the need for travelers to be responsible and informed when embarking on their adventures. This means staying abreast of travel advisories, heeding local customs and laws, and exercising caution and vigilance at all times.

Locals and tour operators in the region advise travelers to use local guides and tour companies when they are traveling in Baja.

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After 3 Tourists Go Missing, Bodies Are Found in Baja California

Mexican authorities recovered the three bodies as a search went on for two Australian tourists and a U.S. citizen who disappeared while on vacation.

An overhead view of three pickup trucks and a group of people in an off-road area along the sea.

By Emiliano Rodríguez Mega

Reporting from Mexico City

A dayslong search for three missing tourists who disappeared near a surfing town close to the U.S.-Mexico border ended tragically on Friday as the authorities said that they had located three bodies in a water hole.

Two Australian brothers, Callum and Jake Robinson, and their friend, Jack Carter Rhoad, a U.S. citizen, had been on vacation surfing and camping along the coast near the Mexican city of Ensenada when they disappeared on Saturday.

Debra Robinson, the mother of the brothers, said in a social media post on Wednesday that they had booked an Airbnb in another coastal town north of Ensenada but never showed up there.

“Reaching out to anyone who has seen my two sons. They have not contacted us,” she pleaded to the more than 120,000 members of a community Facebook page created for people interested in touring Mexico’s Baja California peninsula.

She added that Callum was a Type 1 diabetic.

The state’s attorney general, María Elena Andrade Ramírez, said in a news conference on Thursday that prosecutors were investigating three people related to the case but that crucial time had passed since the disappearance of the three men.

“Unfortunately, it wasn’t until the last few days that they were reported missing,” Ms. Andrade Ramírez told reporters. “So, that meant that important hours or time was lost.”

In an interview, Ms. Andrade Ramírez said that after close examination of a 50-foot-deep water hole in La Bocana beach, near the town of Santo Tomás, Mexican authorities found three male bodies early on Friday. The already decomposed remains, she added, “meet the characteristics to assume with a high degree of probability” that they are the Robinson siblings and Mr. Rhoad.

Researchers will perform DNA tests to confirm the findings.

Prosecutors also believe that the three people tied to the deaths tried to seize the victims’ vehicle. When they resisted, Ms. Andrade Ramírez said, one man took out a gun, opened fire and then tried to dispose of their bodies. That person has been arrested.

“This aggression seems to have occurred in an unforeseen, circumstantial manner,” she added. “We pledge that this crime will not go unpunished.”

Human remains of a fourth male body, which has not yet been identified and is not connected to this case, was also found at the same site.

In 2022, 192 American citizens died in Mexico, State Department figures show , but most of those deaths were accidents or suicides. Only 46 were ruled as homicides.

The big waves in Baja California have long attracted throngs of surfers and travelers, many of whom have dealt with rising crime rates for nearly two decades.

But record levels of violence have hit the state in recent years. Government data shows that Baja California currently holds first place in vehicle theft and second place in homicides, most of which are related to drug dealing or organized crime, Mexico’s secretary of defense, Luis Cresencio Sandoval, said this year.

An official familiar with the investigation, who was not authorized to speak publicly, said a white pickup truck that the missing tourists had been traveling in was found charred near La Bocana beach. Other belongings and pieces of evidence were also being analyzed, the official added.

The swift effort to find the tourists was a rare exception in a country where nearly 100,000 people remain missing, according to the latest count provided by Mexican officials in March.

A majority of cases remain unsolved. Family members and volunteers are left on their own to follow up on leads, but the presence of cartels and a lack of support from the authorities make searching a dangerous mission .

The recent case in Ensenada recalled an episode in 2015 in which two Australian surfers, Adam Coleman and Dean Lucas, were killed as they drove across Sinaloa, another state in northern Mexico. Local authorities arrested three people who said they shot the two friends after they resisted a robbery. Their bodies were found inside their van, which had been doused in gasoline and set on fire.

Emiliano Rodríguez Mega is a reporter and researcher for The Times based in Mexico City, covering Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean. More about Emiliano Rodríguez Mega

Parents identify bodies of U.S., Australian tourists missing in Mexico

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Members of the United States and Australian embassies and the parents of missing U.S. and Australian tourists leave the Forensic Medical Service in Ensenada

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