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How to choose the best DMZ Tour (2024 edition)

By: Author Sylvia

Posted on Last updated: January 22, 2024

Are you wondering what’s the best DMZ tour?

When we visited Korea for the first time, we absolutely wanted to visit the DMZ.

We did tremendous research about the best way to visit the DMZ and the best DMZ tour.

What we didn’t know at that time was that the inter-Korean summit would sabotage our plans.

Our DMZ tour was canceled because of the meeting between the North Korean leader Kim Jong-un and South Korea’s President Moon Jae-in.

Covid-19 threw a wrench in the works of our second trip to Korea, but in 2023, the moment finally arrived! We could again travel to Korea, and this time our visit to the DMZ, became a reality. Hooray!

The visit to the DMZ is slightly different after Covid than it used to be. We share all the latest details.

Here’s everything we learned from our extensive research and from our visit in 2023.

There is a really good chance that this post contains affiliate links. If you click one of them, we may receive a small commission (for which we are deeply grateful) at no extra cost to you.

In a hurry? Here you will find the most important information about the DMZ

The DMZ is an interesting place to visit and a perfect way to learn more about Korean history and the current situation of separation between North and South Korea.

• The cheapest way to visit the DMZ is with the DMZ peace train . (The train has stopped running due to COVID-19 and service has not yet resumed at this time. )

DMZ half or full-day trip

• DMZ half or full-day trip ( is slightly cheaper than the one above, but at the moment only runs on Saturday or Sunday )
• DMZ Tour with Optional North Korean Defector
• If you are traveling with a larger family or a group, you could consider a private tour with a guide
• After 2 years of being closed, the JSA is finally reopening. Note that JSA Tours are very popular and are quickly booked up. If you want to visit the JSA you should book your tour as soon as your travel plans are fixed. Read on to learn the difference between the DMZ and the JSA .

Table of Contents

What’s the DMZ

In order to completely understand what the DMZ is all about we will start with some history.

The complete Korean peninsula on which both North and South Korea are currently located was annexed by Japan in 1910. The Japanese treated Korea as a colony. The interests of the Koreans were completely subordinate to the interests of Japan.

Japan was defeated by the Allies at the end of the second world war in 1945.  At that time the Soviet Union had occupied the Northern part of Korea and the United States took control of the Southern part of the Peninsula.  

7 days in Korea, the perfect itinerary. 

The intention of the two superpowers was to create a temporary separation between the 2 parts. Plans existed to create a united and  independent Korea in 5 years but things turned out differently. 

The Cold War ensured that there was no agreement to hold elections for the whole of Korea.

The differences in politics drove the 2 parts further apart instead of coming to each other.

In 1948 the independent Republic of Korea was established in the American zone.  In the same year, the Communist Democratic Korean People’s Republic (North Korea) was founded in the north.

Two years later the Northern army invaded the South with the aim of uniting the two Koreas into one communist state.  This was the start of a 3-year-long civil war that claimed more than 2 million victims.

Initially, the Northern army succeeded in overrunning 90% of the South but they were fought back by US-led reinforcements sent by the UN.

In their turn, they crossed the border and made plans to conquer the whole North, against the will of China that launched a counter-attack.

It took until July 27, 1953, before the Armistice Agreement was signed.

The two parties took long to negotiate where the new border should be but in the end, it was decided that the border remained more or less where it had been all the time. 

The new border diagonally crosses the  38th latitude and was widened with the creation of a four-kilometer-wide weapons-free buffer zone between the states, known as the DMZ.

The war left its traces and further perpetuated the division of Korea leading to a permanent alliance between South Korea and the United States and the establishment of a US base in South Korea.

There has been a truce since then but o fficially the 2 countries are still at war with each other.   We read about how you can literally feel the tension at the border where the armies of both countries are facing each other.

In other parts of South Korea, such as Busan , you do not notice much of the war except that foreign navigation systems, such as Google Maps, do not work because South Korea requires that all mapping data is stored locally. The government also enforces that military bases are removed from maps. Apparently, Google couldn’t promise to obey to all these rules.

In 2018 both countries have done a considerable effort to ease their relations.  At the Korean summit in May 2018, they vowed to officially end the war within a year.

Since then several other meetings have taken place between both parties as well as a historic meeting between President Trump and Kim Jong-un in June.  That was the first time that the sitting leaders of these countries spoke in person.

We are now well past this deadline and nothing has come of it. Relations between the two countries have even deteriorated again.

It would be great news if Korea would finally be reunited but at this point, it doesn’t seem like this will happen anytime soon.

Over time the DMZ will hopefully transition into a more amicable place but nothing has changed for the time being.

It may be one of the world’s most heavily militarized borders but it’s also one of the most visited tourist attractions in Korea.  The DMZ welcomes more than 1.2 million foreign travelers each year, according to the Korea Tourism Organization.

Why visit the DMZ

The guided tours are very educational and some tours have a North Korean defector as a tour guide who can give you more insight into how life is on the other side of the border. 

It is at this point one of the few still active remnants of the cold war and that makes it extra special.

Americans and South Koreans are not allowed to travel into North Korea, for them this will be the closest they can get to this isolated country.  And despite the fact that other nationalities are allowed to travel to the country, there are not many who do it.

The DMZ is described as one of the most volatile regions in the world and it is a border post that has torn thousands of families apart and still holds them hostage in their “new” country. 

It feels strange that at the same time it is one of the top tourist attractions in this country.

We wondered if we would not feel guilty that we as a tourist came to look at a place that is the source of so much misery for other people.

What convinced us is that we believe that, by showing this to people, hopefully, the following generations will learn from the mistakes of the past.

What is the difference between the DMZ and the JSA

With regard to the tours, there is a distinction between the DMZ and the JSA tours in Korea.

JSA refers to the Joint Security Area , this is as close as you can get to North Korea.

The JSA is what most people probably think about when they think about the Korean border.  This is the area with the blue barracks that are used for all the negotiations between the North and the South.

This is an iconic picture of the JSA but things may be different today.  One of the first things that North and South Korea agreed upon was to clear the JSA of all weapons and military.  This disarmament was completed in October 2018.

The good news is that they also decided to preserve the JSA in its current state.

Later on, in this article, we discuss in more depth the different points of interest that DMZ and JSA DMZ tours cover.

Who can visit the DMZ? 

Everybody can join the DMZ tours but at this point, certain restrictions are still in place regarding the JSA.

Since the JSA has been disarmed the expectation is that these restrictions will disappear in the near future.

Until that is a fact, these nationalities can visit the JSA but will need to provide a scan of their passport at the time of booking a tour. Albania – Afghanistan – Algeria – Azerbaijan – Bangladesh – Bahrain – Belarus – China – Cuba – Egypt – Estonia – Georgia – Hong Kong – Iran – Iraq – India – Indonesia – Jordan – Kazakhstan – Kuwait – Kyrgyzstan – Latvia – Lebanon – Libya – Lithuania – Malaysia – Morocco – Moldova – Nigeria – North Korea – Oman – Pakistan – Qatar – Russia – Saudi Arabia – Somalia – Sudan – Syria – Taiwan – Tajikistan – Turkmenistan – Tunisia – Ukraine – United Arab Emirates – Uzbekistan – Vietnam – Yemen Visitors with European, American, or Australian nationality do not have any restrictions when visiting the JSA.

Children must be accompanied by their parents for both the JSA as well as the DMZ tours.

Some tour companies require that children are at least 10 years old before they can participate in a JSA tour.  If you’re planning on doing a DMZ or DMZ/JSA tour with small children we recommend that you check with the tour company.

Things to know when visiting the DMZ

Opening hours.

The DMZ tours don’t run on Mondays and Korean holidays ( except Korea’s New Year and Thanksgiving Day).

If the Korean holiday happens to be during a weekend, there is a chance that the DMZ tours will run anyway.

We cover an alternative DMZ tour that you can do if your only chance is to visit the DMZ would be a Monday. More about this tour later.

Things you should bring

A current valid passport is required for both the DMZ as well as JSA DMZ tour. 

You have to take your passport with you.

Without your passport, you won’t be allowed to join the tour.

A dress code applies when visiting the JSA.

The dress code is expected to disappear now that the disarmament of the JSA is a fact but for the time being, we would advise you to stick to the dress code or to check with your tour operator to confirm what you will be wearing is OK.

This is the dress code:

• Skirts/dresses need to be at least knee length
• No sandals, flip-flops,s or slippers
• No t-shirts: must be collared shirts
• Civilian clothes preferred
• Jeans accepted with no holes (no ripped jeans)
• No tank tops
• No exercise clothes
• No clothing with militarily styled prints
• No stretch pants/tights

The reason that the dress code is in place has nothing to do with security as most would think.

The dress code came after it appeared that North Korea used photos of “sloppy” dressed foreigners to use them in their propaganda.   The North Korean government used the photos to showcase the poor state of the other countries.

For this same reason, it is not allowed to wave to the North Korean guards.  Images of foreigners waving to North Korean guards have been used in propaganda and have been framed as people who wanted to defect to the communist state.

Codes of conduct 

There is still a strict code of conduct in place as we write this article. You mustn’t wave, point, or in any other way signal to the North Korean guards.

Photos are also not allowed everywhere.  The guides will tell you what you can and cannot take pictures of. (eg. it is not allowed to take pictures inside the 3rd infiltration tunnel)

When you tour the JSA you must at all times stay with your guide and the military escorts and comply with all the instructions given by your guide and the military.

The disarmament will result in a more relaxed code of conduct in the future.

Most interesting points of interest

The most interesting sights are the Joint Security Area, the Freedom Bridge, the Infiltration Tunnels, and the Mount Odu Observatory.

The Joint Security Area (JSA)

Located in Panmunjom, the JSA is the closest point a tourist can get to North Korea without getting arrested or shot.

Here you’ll have a chance to physically stand in North Korea. It is also the only spot  in the DMZ, where the South and North Korean soldiers face each other.

The JSA area is occupied by the South Korean and US military. 

Bill Clinton repeatedly called this border post the scariest place on earth but it is touristy at the same time.  There is even a gift shop selling original items from North Korea, including stamps, money, and wine.

A visit to the JSA zone usually starts in Camp Bonifas.  

This is a United Nations Command military post that houses the United Nations Command Security Battalion of the Joint Security Area whose primary mission is to monitor and enforce the Korean Armistice Agreement of 1953.

Here you will normally also be given a 20-minute briefing by an American soldier explaining the rules and possible dangers. 

There are quite a few rules you should follow so listen carefully. You cannot  take any loose items with you, if you bring a coat you have to wear it all the time (you cannot hang it over your arm), you will also have to walk to the actual border in “formation” and have to set up in rows, etc. 

At this point, you’ll also be signing a waiver that absolves South Korea, the UN, and the USA in case any incidents will arise.  The waiver explicitly states that the visitor’s safety is not guaranteed in the event of unanticipated complications.

A standard formality because in recent years there have been no accidents and these tours are done on a regular basis.

This document also provides more information about photo privileges, specifically when and where you’re allowed to take pictures.

Once everybody has signed the waiver a tour bus brings you to the freedom house.

Here two South Korean soldiers of a special unit stand guard facing soldiers from North Korea.   Often there is only one soldier on the side of North Korea.

The JSA is the only part of the DMZ where North and South Korean soldiers are face-to-face. They stare at each other all day long and have been for several years.

A little later you can enter the conference room. This is the actual conference room where the armistice agreement was signed.  In this room, you will get the chance to cross the border.  The border cuts the conference room in 2 so when you cross the room to the opposite side you’re effectively in North Korean territory. 

This concludes your visit to the actual JSA zone, next you get a short tour along a lookout point towards North Korea from where you can see the Propaganda Village.

This is a well-tended village just along the North Korean border that is supposedly housing 200 families, several schools, and a hospital. 

Tourists seldom see any movement in the village and it is believed that North Korea only built the town for propaganda purposes.  Hence the name South Koreans gave to the town.

You will also visit the location of the Korean ax murder incident.  Two American soldiers were killed here by North Koreans while cutting a tree.  

Another highlight is the bridge of no return.

This is the bridge where prisoners between the two countries were exchanged after the Korean War. 

The name originates from the final ultimatum that was given to prisoners of war brought to the bridge for repatriation: they could either remain in the country of their captivity or cross the bridge to return to their homeland.

However, once they chose to cross the bridge, they would never be allowed to return, even if they later changed their minds.

After 2 years of being closed, the JSA is finally reopening.

Note that JSA Tours are very popular and book out quickly. We therefore recommend that you book as early as possible so that you can choose your desired date.

Check prices and availability: DMZ-JSA Tour

Imjingak Park and the Freedom Bridge

Imjingak Park has an important sentimental and symbolic meaning. This park commemorates families who are separated because of the split between North and South. 

The remnants of the Freedom Bridge can be seen from the park. This bridge was long 1 of only 2 bridges that crossed the Imjin River.

It had long served peaceful purposes but its position close to the Korean border made it of crucial importance during the Korean War.

The bridge was destroyed early in the war, making the Imjingang bridge alongside it the only connection to supply the Southern troops fighting in the Northern territory with supplies.

After the peace treaty was signed this bridge was also used to exchange the sick and wounded prisoners.

The Third Tunnel of Aggression

The Third Tunnel of Aggression is one of four known tunnels under the border between North and South Korea.

The tunnels have been dug to make a surprise attack from North Korea on South Korea.

North Korea denies this and claims the tunnels are part of a network of tunnels belonging to a coal mine.  This is highly unlikely as coal has never been found in the area.

The Third Tunnel of Aggression is located 44 kilometers from Seoul and was discovered in 1978.  It runs underneath the Demilitarized Zone. 

The incomplete tunnel is 1,635 meters long, with a height and width of 2 meters. It is estimated that the tunnel would be able to accommodate more than 30,000 soldiers with light weapons per hour.

Today the tunnel has become an all-inclusive tourist attraction, with a DMZ video hall, representative sculptures, gift shops, and more.

The tunnel is located 73 meters below the surface and is accessed through a steep tunnel. It makes for quite a tough climb. For a supplement, you can use the monorail pictured above to enter and exit the tunnel. Check in advance with the tour organizer if he can arrange this if you want to use the monorail.

You can walk a part of the tunnel until the MDL (military demarcation line). The tunnel may feel quite cramped and if you’re claustrophobic you want to skip it.

Pictures are not allowed in the tunnel.

The Dora Observatory

The Dora Observatory is the northernmost Observatory.  It is situated on top of Mount Dora.

Here you can catch a rare glimpse of the reclusive North Korean state without setting foot in the country.

You will see the Kijong-dong Propaganda village and, on a clear day, you can see as far as the real city of Kaesong situated about 8km from the DMZ.

Kaesong is the only city that actually changed hands after the Armistice agreement was signed.  It used to be under the control of South Korea but is now ruled by the North. 

The Kaesong Industrial region that borders the city is because of its proximity to the border a special administrative region where both people from the North and the South are allowed to work.

You can also see the Dorasan train station , a station located only 650 meters from the Korean border. 

The railway line used to continue into North Korea all the way to the capital city of Pyongyang.

The tracks are still there and one hopes that in the near future the trains will again operate in between the two current capitals.

The Dorasan Train station 

In 2000 North and South Korea made plans for a rail line that connected both capitals.

The line was completed in 2003 but it took until 2007 before the first freight trains started to run across the border.  Not for long unfortunately because already in December 2008 North Korea decided unilaterally to again hermetically close the border.

The Dorasan Train station is currently hugely oversized.  The DMZ train is the only train that serves the station with exactly one arrival and one departure daily.

But, with a large customs & immigration area, the station is completely ready for the day that the trains will again continue further North.  The original intention was to enable passenger transport in the long term. Let’s hope that this will become a reality in the future.

At this point, Dorasan station is more a symbol of the hope for a reunion between South and North Korea than it is an actual functioning train station.

How to visit the DMZ 

The DMZ area is located 60 km from Seoul and can be visited with the DMZ train or a private guided or group tour.

The DMZ peace train

DMZ peace train service has not yet resumed post-COVID-19.

The cheapest way to visit the DMZ is with the DMZ peace train .

The DMZ peace train runs from  Seoul  to Dorasan station from Tuesdays to Sundays. Just before the train reaches Dorasan station it crosses the Imjingang bridge which gives you a good view of the remnants of the Freedom bridge. 

Once arriving at Dorasan station, you can hop on a bus to visit the DMZ. The bus will take you to the Dorasan peace park, the Dora observatory and you will visit the Third Tunnel of Aggression.

Pros and cons

• The cheapest way to visit the DMZ. You will have to take cash to pay separately for the bus tour (if you don’t join the bus tour the only other option is to hang around for 5 hours at the train station) as well as for your lunch.
• This tour might be for you if you don’t like group tours. It gives you slightly more freedom although you still will have to join the bus once you arrive at Dorasan station.

• No English is spoken on the bus tour.
• This tour takes a whole day. If you are short on time you better opt for an organized half-day DMZ tour allowing you to explore the rest of Seoul during the remaining afternoon
• You cannot visit the JSA.
• No hotel pick up, you will need to get to the train station on your own expense

Although we’re not fans of organized group tours ourselves we have opted for an organized tour to visit the DMZ and we were happy with our choice afterward.

The first reason is that you have to join a tour anyway if you want to see the sights such as the infiltration tunnel that are located inside the DMZ. Otherwise, you can only visit Imjingak park.

The second reason is that many of the sights, including in Imjingak park, don’t say that much unless you hear the story from the guide.

We haven’t been able to visit the JSA yet, that will be for our next trip. If you want to visit it you also need to book a tour with a guide.

Finally, there isn’t a huge price difference between what you would pay if you went to the DMZ on your own and took a tour there or booked an organized tour from the start.

That’s why our advice would be to have a look at the organized tours before you opt for the train.

“The scariest place on Earth” – Former US President, Bill Clinton, during his visit to the DMZ in 1993.

The best DMZ tours from Seoul

The most comfortable way to visit the DMZ is with an organized DMZ tour from Seoul.

We recommend using GetYourGuide to book your DMZ tour in Korea. One of the advantages of GetYourGuide is that most tours have a flexible cancellation policy. Normally you can cancel up to 24hours before the tour to get a full refund.

Here is an overview of all the tours on GetYourGuide.

You have a choice between half-day and full-day DMZ tours.

All DMZ tours will head to Imjingak Peace Park first where they will buy tickets to enter the DMZ area. Depending on how busy it is, your group will have to wait there until it’s your turn to visit the DMZ region.

Your guide will tell you some stories about the most important things at Imjingak when you arrive.

You can use your free time at Imjingak to see several monuments and other elements that tell stories about the Korean War. One of them is this steam locomotive riddled with bullets. This was the last train to cross the border. It was destroyed by US soldiers so that it could not be used by North Korean troops.

Once it is your turn to visit the sights inside the DMZ area, the Dora Observatory, and the Infiltration tunnel, you will board a bus and visit those things in groups.

Know that the end times of all tours are only indicative. Only a limited number of people are allowed in the DMZ area at a time. Therefore, there is a real chance that your group will have to wait and that your tour will be delayed. We recommend not booking any other activities on the day of your DMZ visit.

Make sure to book your DMZ tour from Seoul well in advance to avoid disappointments, especially JSA tours tend to sell out well in advance.

Which Dmz Korea tour is the best one? Here’s a list of the most recommended and popular tours. 

To create this list we looked at the itineraries and the reviews.

This tour visits the DMZ and JSA in 1 day. It is the most complete and popular DMZ tour.

Tours to the JSA zone have only just resumed and availability is currently difficult to find.

Check prices and availability: JSA tour on Viator

• Visit the freedom bridge near Imjingpark and the old steam train
• Learn more about the Korean war by visiting the 3rd infiltration tunnel and the DMZ Exhibition Hall
• See North Korea from the Dora observatory
• Visit the Dora station

They offer both half-day and full-day tours. You can join the half-day tour in the morning or in the afternoon. The morning tour starts at 8 am, the afternoon tour at 11 am.

If you opt for a full-day tour, you will also visit the War Memorial of Korea.

Pickup is included ( see the tour for the exact pickup locations)

• Those who are not interested in the JSA or who are short on time will find that the half-day DMZ tours offer a great alternative.  You will see all the highlights of the DMZ and still have a half-day to discover Seoul.
• If you want to visit the War Memorial of Korea, you should opt for the full day tour.

Check prices and availability: DMZ half or full day trip

DMZ half and full-day tour

• Explore the extraordinary Demilitarized Zone that separates North and South Korea
• Get a rare glimpse of North Korea from the Ganghwa Peace Observatory
• Stop by at the Veterans Memorial Park and learn more about the Korean War
• Watch the statues and monuments at Imjingak Park
• See the Bridge of Freedom

There are both half and full-day tours. 

Both tours will take you to all the highlights of the DMZ. 

In addition, the full-day tour includes an authentic Korean-style lunch (Bibimbap) and a real shooting experience back in Seoul.

Due to COVID-19 measures, the places visited will be Imjingak Park, Bridge of Freedom, 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, Dora Observatory, and Dorasan Station.

Note that at the moment this tour only runs on Saturday and Sunday.

• If you aren’t interested in the JSA or short on time will find that the half-day DMZ tours offer a great alternative.  
• The Ganghwa Peace Observatory is a great alternative for those that are looking to visit a less touristic area of the DMZ.
• If you add up all the costs of the train excursion, the difference between these half-day excursions is negligible.

Check prices and availability: DMZ half and full day

DMZ Tour with a North Korean Defector

• Listen to enlightening commentary from a professional guide and a real North Korean defector
• Ask questions about real North Korean life and hear about the past and present of North Korea
• Enjoy a comprehensive tour of the Korean Demilitarized Zone ( tour of DMZ) and learn about both South and North Korea’s history
• Explore all the must-see spots in the DMZ in one tour
• Catch a rare glimpse of the reclusive North Korean territory

Tours 

With this DMZ tour, you visit the must-see spots in the DMZ zone and you have the possibility to ask questions to a North Korean defector about life in North Korea.

You can opt for a tour with or without hotel pick-up.

This tour is similar to the half-day DMZ tour we listed above but you will be accompanied by a guide and a North Korean defector.  

This is our top recommended tour if you want to learn more about North Korea. 

There’s no better way to learn more about North Korea than to speak to somebody who lived there for several years.

Check prices and availability: Tour with Optional North Korean Defector

Private DMZ Peace Tour: 3rd Invasion Tunnel(Monorail) and Suspension Bridge

If you are traveling with a larger family or a group, consider a private tour with a guide.

This tour visits all the important stops such as the freedom bridge and the Mangbaedan altar, the third tunnel, Dora Observatory, and more.

You will also have the option to visit Gamaksan Chulleong Bridge or Majang Lake.

The Gamaksan Chulleong Bridge is with length of 150 meters one of the longest suspension bridges in Korea. This bridge was a fierce battlefield during the Korean War. 

Majang Lake is the lake where the Allied Forces fought a fierce battle during the Korean War.

Check prices and availability: Private DMZ Tour

A journey to South Korea is not complete without a visit to the DMZ.  It may feel strange to travel to a very controversial border post as a tourist but it is the best way to learn about the rich albeit sad history of the 2 Korean countries.

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• Disclosures

How to Visit North Korea’s DMZ Border (Updated 2023)

A s controversial a place as North Korea is, it's swiftly gaining attention from the curious tourist eye. Our intrigue to see it was piqued during a visit to Seoul with friends. Having now taken the DMZ tour ourselves, this highly informative if not haunting experience is one we would highly recommend . So, if you've got guts and a desire to get a snippet into one of the most closed countries on earth, here's how to do it!

Getting there & where to stay

First, you need to get yourself to Seoul, which is the nearest major city to the DMZ border. South Korea is only reachable by flight, with most planes flying into Incheon International Airport. Use Skyscanner and search by entire month to see the cheapest dates to fly. Be sure to check our flight booking hacks here to get yourself the best price. And don't forget to book your airport transfer and a 4G Data SIM card before you land!

A fast way to get a big discount on your flight is to sign up for the Chase Sapphire Preferred credit card. This card offers a massive sign-up bonus of 60,000 bonus points (worth $750 ) after spending $4,000 in the first 3 months. United and Singapore Airlines are both partner airlines of this card, and both offer flights to Seoul, meaning you can convert your points to these airline loyalty programs, or just book directly through Chase Ultimate Rewards.

Seoul is a buzzing megacity with plenty of enticing accommodation options. There are plentiful  AirBNBs  and  hotel  selections, but be sure to reserve ahead in peak season. Some convenient neighbourhood options include Hongdae, Itaewon, Myeongdong, Gangnam, and Jamsil. Check  TripAdvisor  for more local tips and advice.

There is plenty to explore in Seoul itself, and a local guide can help ensure you catch the best of the best. Be sure to check out the Gyeongbok Palace & Temple , or grab the Seoul Pass , which grants free entry to 65 attractions and discounted entry to 101 more.

How to visit North Korea's DMZ Border:

Step 1. choose your points of interest.

There are several companies that operate DMZ tours. As much as I despise group tours, you can only visit the DMZ with a tour , as it has restricted civilian access and requires a mandatory military escort.

No two tours are the same, but you should choose one based on your budget, customer reviews, and points of interest that are included. Tours can be browsed with reviews, prices, and instant confirmation through Klook , GetYourGuide and Viator . The main highlights to select from are as follows:

The Joint Security Area (JSA)

Located in Panmunjom, the JSA is the closest point a tourist can get to North Korea . At this spot, you'll have a chance to physically stand in North Korea itself and take a photo as proof (more on that below). This area is occupied by the South Korean and US military, and is complete with a gift shop selling original items from North Korea, including stamps, money, and wine (which in our experience tastes like nail polish remover and turpentine but hey, at least you can say you tried it).

NOTE: As of 2023, the JSA is still closed to visitors due to COVID, and is not included in any tours.

Odusan Unification Observatory

One can safely view day-to-day life in North Korea without setting foot in the country at Mt Odu Observatory. Binoculars (free of charge) provide ultra zoomed up views of North Korea opposite the Han river below. On our visit we were able to see civilians walking around on the other side.

Infiltration Tunnels

Scarily enough, around the time that the North and South were having peace talks, North Korea began digging underground tunnels to infiltrate the South. They were never completed, but were discovered in 1984. The longest tunnel is 1,082 metres. The 3rd tunnel is the closest to Seoul (only 44km away) and could move ~30,000 troops and artillery per hour.

Dora Observatory

This observatory offers binocular views of North Korea's fake town, Kijong-dong. The town was first built in the 1950's to lure South Koreans to defect and move across the border. From visual observations from the South, it has been uninhabited with windowless, incomplete buildings since its construction.

Dora Observatory is so named after Dorasan the mountain on which it sits. The nearest train station has a fully completed train line that runs to Pyongyang. Though the North cooperated in its completion, it was never used. It is hoped that when re-unification is reached, the train line will be used to connect the two Koreas.

Freedom Bridge

The Freedom Bridge connects North and South Korea, though a massive barricade blocks entry to the connecting point over the river. If the two sides are ever connected, this bridge could be used to enter and exit North Korea.

Step 2. Select a tour

Once you've decided on your must-see highlights (as listed above), you can select a tour.

There are traditional tour companies to choose from, which are listed at the end of this article along with prices and contact information, but it's much easier to book tours online with Klook , GetYourGuide  and Viator . You pay in advance and get fast confirmation, so all you need to do is bring your voucher to the tour. There are reviews, photos, and videos that make choosing the right tour simple. The traditional companies require back and forth e-mail or phone communication when booking direct, so Klook , GetYourGuide  and  Viator are convenient ways to avoid all that hassle.

One of the most popular tours is this day tour on Klook , with more than 50,000 bookings. This is the tour most of our readers have chosen, and is the tour we would select today. Our trip was now several years ago, and at the time we took the Special Panmunjom Tour by Panmunjeom Travel Center  which does not visit the tunnels but goes to Odu Observatory and the JSA. This tour offered the chance to speak with a North Korean refugee (defector). This allowed us to learn about how people escape the North, how they adapt to life afterwards, and what knowledge they have of the outside world living in North Korea.

Get $10 USD off your first Klook purchase with coupon code THRIFTY10 (minimum spend $120 USD, new users only)

Here are some of the top-rated tours that can be booked online:

South Korea Demilitarized Zone Half-Day Tour (Bestseller)

From Seoul: Half-Day Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Tour

DMZ Past and Present: Korean Demilitarized Zone Tour from Seoul

Step 3. take ( lots of ) photos of north korea.

Much of the road towards the JSA border runs parallel to the Han River, which separates the two countries. It's nothing short of unique to be sitting in a bus with views of North Korea passing by out your window.

The binoculars at the Dora and Odu observatory provide ultra zoomed views of North Korea. One can even see North Korean civilians walking around on the other side, as we did during our visit at Odu . At Dora Observatory, North Korea's fake town, Kijong-dong, is viewed.

Step 4. Cross the border into North Korea

On a tension-free day at the JSA, one can legally take a step into North Korea. But how and why ?

The blue buildings pictured below are UN Command neutral zones. Midway, the inside of these blue buildings cross the North/South Korea border. Inside the building on the right (UNCMAC) is where meetings between the two countries are housed.

If you want photo evidence that you physically stood in North Korea, this can be done . You can pose with a South Korean soldier within  North Korea at the back of the UNCMAC room. Be warned though (and you will be), if you cross through the door behind you, no one is responsible for your safety as you'll be alone and in North Korea.

Important Points About DMZ Tours

• Many tours require reservation 2-5 days in advance , so check ahead.
• If visiting the JSA, you must sign a waiver agreeing that no one is responsible for accident, injury, or even death . Take comfort in the fact that these tours are done every day and you are accompanied by military escorts at the border!
• You must bring your passport for most tours , and it is checked by army personnel on arrival at the JSA.
• You must adhere to the specified dress code (e.g. no ripped jeans, sandals, or unkempt hair). These rules are strictly enforced as North Korean soldiers take photos and produce false propaganda that other countries are too poor to afford proper clothing.
• Tours can end unexpectedly at any time if tensions rise at the border . That means you are not be guaranteed to step into the UNCMAC at the JSA, nor is it certain you'll get a photo across the border.

In Summary…

Partaking in the DMZ tour allows yourself to gain much more depth on a humanitarian crisis that the world does not know enough about. If you have the chance to do this trip, I'd highly recommend it.

Tour Companies & Pricing

Alternatively, you can contact one of the tour companies below directly and book with them.

Panmunjeom Travel Center Website : www.panmunjomtour.com Telephone : +82-2-771-5593 (Korean, English, Japanese) Price : 80,000-77,000 won (~$60-$77 USD). All tours include lunch. Note : Tours offered in Korean, English, and Japanese. This is the only company that allows you to meet a North Korean defector/refugee, ask them questions, and better understand the human rights issues of North Korea.

VIP Travel Website: http://www.vviptravel.com/eng/ Telephone: 02-739-3501 ext. 4 Price: 55,000-135,000 won ($48 – $120 USD). Most tours include lunch. Notes: Tours offered in English, Japanese, Chinese. None of the tours include any forced shopping stops.

Koridoor Website :  www.koridoor.co.kr Telephone : 02-6383-2570 ext. 2 Price : 43-89,000 won (~$41-$80 USD). Most tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in English.

JSA Tour Website : www.jsatour.com Telephone : +82-2-2266-3350 Price : 85,000-120,000 won (~$85-$120 USD). All tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

DMZ Spy Tour Website : www.dmzspytour.com Telephone : +82-10-3950-8350 Price: 88,000-114,000 won (~$88-$114 USD). Tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

International Culture Service Club Website : www.tourdmz.com Telephone : +82-2-755-0073 Price : 65,000-85,000 won (~$65-$85 USD). All tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English and Japanese. This is the only company that does Saturday tours.

Seoul City Tour Website : www.seoulcitytour.net Telephone : +82-2-774-3345 Price: 40,000-125,000 won (~$40-$125 USD). Only some tours include lunch. Notes : Tours are offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

KTB Tour Website : www.go2korea.co.kr Telephone : +82-2-778-0150 Price : 65,000-130,000 won (~$65-$130 USD). All tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

DMZ & JSA Tour (Professional Guide Service / Celebrity's choice Agency) Website : www.cosmojin.com Telephone : +82-2-318-0345 (Korean, English, Japanese), +82-2-318-0425 (Chinese) Price : 46,000 won (~$46 USD) for half-day tour, 87,000 won (~$87 USD) for full day tour. Lunch included on full day tour. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese.

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You guys are so brave! This makes me a bit nervous and I’m not sure I would be able to do it!

The link to the GetYourGuide tour you provided doesn’t work. Do you have an updated link by any chance? Thank you!

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DMZ Tour Review (+ How To Choose The Best One)

by Mark and Kristen Morgan

Published: May 8, 2023

A typical DMZ tour includes Imjingak Park, the 3rd Tunnel and Dora Observatory . Most tours last 6-10 hours and you can choose additional options such as the gondola, suspension bridge or JSA. Our review will highlight the difference between each tour option so you don’t miss out.

In this guide, we’ll tell you everything you need to know about booking a tour of the DMZ including pros and cons from our experience.

Disclosure : We paid for our own DMZ tour and this is not a sponsored post.

Our DMZ Tour Experience

We spent 14 days exploring Seoul in March 2023 and during this trip, we personally went to the DMZ . Visiting the DMZ was at the top of our bucket list so we booked a tour for the first full day we were in Seoul. It was the best way to start our trip!

But we ran into a few problems during our tour . So our detailed and honest DMZ tour review will tell you everything you need to know including a step by step account of our experience. Depending on what you want to see, you might need to book a different tour and we want to help you make the most of your trip. Read more  about us .

What Is The DMZ?

The DMZ or Demilitarized Zone is one of the most notorious and heavily fortified strips of land in the world running between North and South Korea. Additionally, the Military Demarcation Line (MDL) is the official land border between the two countries. On either side of the MDL, you’ll find the official DMZ area.

After the Korean war, an Armistice Agreement was signed on July 27th, 1953 formally ending the war. This was one of the longest negotiated armistice in history spanning over two years and 158 meetings. As part of this agreement, North Korea and South Korea were to remain separate and each country kept similar territories they occupied before the war.

Both the DMZ and DML were created from the 1953 Armistice Agreement. This buffer zone spans 4km wide and 250km in length along the 38th parallel between the two Korean countries . Soldiers from each county patrol their respective sides.

While the DMZ is one of the most heavily guarded borders on the planet, there is no threat to visitors or civilians. The DMZ is still considered to be an active war zone, but it has now become a place of peace and is safe to visit making the DMZ one of the best day trips from Seoul .

It’s also interesting to note, travelers with American and South Korean passports are not allowed to enter North Korea . So for many, a tour of the DMZ is the closest they will ever come to this very secluded and secretive country.

The Joint Security Area

If you want to book a tour, you can visit both the DMZ and the Joint Security Area (JSA). Inside the Demilitarized Zone, you’ll find the former village of Panmunjom which is now known as Truce Village on the western coast of the peninsula along the Military Demarcation Line.

Located near this village, the JSA is the closest point to North Korea within the Civilian Controlled Zone . This is where North and South Korean soldiers stand face to face.

The JSA has several blue barracks that have historically been used for negotiations between the two nations. Supported by the United Nations Command Military Armistice Commission (UNCMAC), the JSA is now considered to be a neutral place. You can visit as part of a tour and visitors are allowed to enter one of the Military Armistice Commission conference rooms.

In 2019, Donald Trump was the first U.S. President to set foot on North Korean soil. He met with Kim Jong Un for about an hour and then both leaders stepped back into South Korean territory where they were greeted by South Korea’s President, Moon Jae-In . If you visit the JSA, you’ll be able to see where this historical meeting took place.

However, the JSA is heavily regulated by South Korea and the US military. Unfortunately, no visitors under the age of 12 can visit and there is a dress code in place. If you choose to visit the JSA, you’ll be given a 20-minute briefing by an American soldier outlining the possible dangers .

You’ll also be required to sign a waiver which absolves South Korea, the US and the UN if any incident arises. JSA tours were suspended last year in 2023 because a US soldier ran into North Korea during his tour and unfortunately, the JSA is no longer allowing tours.

Travel Tip : It might take at least 72 hours in advance to make a reservation if you plan to visit the JSA so if this is something you want to do, you will have to plan ahead.

Can You Visit The DMZ Without A Tour?

No, you can not go to the DMZ in South Korea without a tour and you must have a registered guide from an official tour company. However, you can visit Imjingak Park without a tour or a guide . This park is located just outside the DMZ and it also does not require any additional security screening to visit.

At Imjingak Park, you can ride a gondola over the DMZ line, see the Freedom Bridge, visit the National Memorial For Abductees, buy North Korean money and so much more. If you don’t want to take a tour of the DMZ, we’ll show you how to visit Imjingak Park on your own. However, we recommend you book a DMZ tour from Seoul to make the most of your South Korea experience.

READ : Best things to do at Imjingak Park

Should I Visit The DMZ Or JSA?

Because you can’t travel to the DMZ without a guide, many of the tours follow similar routes. However, the first decision you should make is whether you want to visit the DMZ, JSA or both.

If you choose the DMZ, you can expect to visit :

• Imjingak Park including Freedom Bridge
• The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel
• Dora Observatory

If you choose to visit the JSA, you can expect to visit :

• Camp Bonifas
• Freedom House
• Military Armistice Commission Conference Room

Then depending on how much time you have in Seoul itinerary, you can choose a half day or full day option . We chose a full day tour to the DMZ with Klook and had a great experience. Later in this DMZ tour review, we’ll give you a full walk through of our tour so you know exactly what to expect.

When we visit in March 2023, the JSA was still closed for tours due to covid, but it opened a few months later. However, the JSA closed once again in July 2023 because the US soldier ran into North Korea.

Personally, we chose the DMZ over the JSA because we wanted the best chance of being able to go on a tour . While both the DMZ and the JSA can close to tours, the JSA is a much more restricted area with high political tension so it’s often the first to close over the DMZ. If you book a JSA tour and it closes last minute, all DMZ tours might be fully booked.

Things To Know Before Booking

As we mentioned earlier, the DMZ and the JSA are active military zones so you can’t always expect a perfect tour. For example, the week before we took our DMZ tour, North Korea was carrying out missile testing so all DMZ tours were cancelled for a few days while this took place.

When we visited in March 2023, there was also a surge in tourism and the tickets for DMZ were extremely limited on a first come, first serve basis with timed entry. We had to move our tour time a few hours ahead to ensure we arrived early enough in the day to secure our tickets.

Travel Tip : Book your DMZ trip at the beginning of your Seoul itinerary so if your tour is altered for any reason, you have a few days of buffer room to reschedule if needed.

Two important things to know when booking your DMZ / JSA tour:

• You must bring your passport (or ARC, local Alien Registration Card for South Koreans)
• Dress code is important when visiting the JSA

Dress code is enforced at the JSA because North Korea has previously used photos of carelessly dressed tourists as propaganda suggesting how poor the rest of the world is to their citizens. So if you choose to visit the JSA, you’re not allowed to wear revealing or suggestive clothing such as:

• Ripped or faded jeans
• Sleeveless shirts or tank tops including a revealing midriff
• Shorts and miniskirts
• Clothing with military print
• Anything that could suggest your nationality (like a national flag)
• Workout gear

Overall, we found it best to dress appropriate yet casual. Keep in mind this is a geopolitical area so taking the time think about your outfit shows respect. If you’re fully covered and casually dressed, you’ll be fine for your DMZ tour.

Most Popular DMZ Tour Options

We chose to book our DMZ tour through Klook because they offer some of the best deals. Each tour company varies in cost depending on time of year so always check prices before booking.

• Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Tour from Seoul – Chinese, English or Japanese speaking guide with admission to attractions and optional suspension bridge (this was the tour we booked).
• DMZ Adventure Tour – 9 hour tour with English or Korean speaking guide with suspension bridge and boat voyage

Get Your Guide :

• South Korea DMZ Tour Option – Half or full day tour option with I LOVE SEOUL TOUR including an English speaking guide
• From Seoul: DMZ Guided Day Trip – Another half or full day tour option (6-9 hours) with Seoul N Tour and English speaking guide
• Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Tour – 6 hour tour with SEOUL CITY TOUR CO. including Tongilchon-gil, the unification village
• Private DMZ Tour Option – Experience a 9-10 hour private tour including Gamaksan Chulleong Bridge or Majang Lake

JSA Options :

• DMZ JSA with VIP Travel – Limited seats and may sell out quickly
• Paju JSA + DMZ One Day Bus Tour – A very popular option by Klook
• JSA Tour with Viator – Sometimes unavailable so check before your trip

Booking Tip : Make sure you carefully read the description for each tour option and it includes what you want to see.

Our DMZ Tour Walkthrough

Even if you choose to visit both the JSA and DMZ, you’ll visit most of the places we did during our tour. The main difference is you’ll have less time at each location . Here is what we experienced on our full day tour (8:00am – 6:00pm) of the DMZ:

1. Booking And Tour Departure Times

The tour we booked with Klook offered an 8:00am or 10:00am departure time. We chose the 10:00am time slot. But we learned to be flexible because we received a phone call and text from our tour guide the day before asking if we could start earlier in the day at 8:00am.

Unfortunately, when we visited Seoul, the DMZ was still working on a limited number of tickets per day on a first come first serve basis. So we potentially would not get tickets if we arrived later in the day . Our tour started around 8:00am and we were picked up by private car in front of our Seoul hotel. The driver was hilarious and he dropped us off at the bus where everyone else was waiting.

2. The Bus Ride

Our DMZ tour group met outside Hongik University Station . Once everyone was accounted for our tour guide, Spring , introduced herself and told us about the plan for the day. Because the DMZ was limiting tickets due to an influx of visitors, she had to secure the tickets and this was her first priority when getting to Imjingak Park.

The bus ride from Seoul to Imjingak Park was about 1 hour and 30 minutes with traffic. During the drive, Spring spoke about numerous things including the history of South Korea, what we could expect for the day and the current situation at the DMZ.

Travel Tip : Your passport is required to visit the Third Infiltration Tunnel and the Dora Observatory.

3. Imjingak Park

Once at Imjingak Park, Spring got in line for our DMZ tickets and we had a little bit of time to look around the area ourselves. If you’re hungry, there are many food options including a few local stalls, Dunkin Donuts and burgers.

Luckily, Spring secured our tickets and our entry time for the DMZ was 12:00pm . So we had an additional few hours to explore Imjingak Park which was not part of the original itinerary. This was actually a blessing in disguise because we now had a few hours to see as much as possible. Spring led us around to several of the important areas and explained their significance.

We then had more free time to visit the rest of the park on our own. Personally, we thought Imjingak Park was worth visiting and to see everything, you’ll need at least a few hours. We recommend you read our guide featuring the best things to do at Imjingak Park before your visit.

4. Freedom Bridge

The Freedom Bridge is one of the most important symbols found at Imjingak Park. However, you won’t be able to cross it because you can only see it from a distance. This bridge was built in 1953 for the temporary purpose of exchanging 12,773 Prisoners of War (POW) from the Korean War between North and South Korea.

During this time, the POWs crossed the Freedom Bridge on foot after arriving to the bridge of the Gyeongui Line via motor vehicles. And today it represents the tragedies from the war.

5. The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel

The next stop on our DMZ Korea tour was the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel and we thought this tunnel was the most interesting part of the entire tour . Sometimes also known as the Third Tunnel of Aggression , this is one of four known tunnels under the border between North and South Korea and it’s located about 50 km (~30 miles) from Seoul.

The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel was built by North Korea for a surprise attack on Seoul . This underpass could accommodate about 30,000 men per hour including weaponry. Discovered by South Korea in 1978, the 3rd Tunnel spans 1,635m in length, 2m in width and 2m in height.

During a DMZ tour, you’ll be able to walk a portion of the 3rd Tunnel . It’s a very steep incline down into the tunnel, but it has railings for support and it’s lit extremely well.

Travel Tip : There are no photos allowed in the 3rd Tunnel and you’ll be asked to leave your belongings in a locker including your phone. Please respect the rules and don’t take any photos.

6. Dora Observatory

After the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, we headed to Dora Observatory. Sitting on top of Dorasan (Mount Dora) in Paju and first opened in 1987, the observatory allows visitors to see the North Korean propaganda village as well as the city of Kaesong. This is where you’ll get to see panoramic views of the Demilitarized Zone using binoculars from the top of Dora Observatory.

We had fun playing with the tower viewers where we could easily see regions of North Korea including the flag flying high in the sky from a nearby village. This is also your chance to snap a selfie with North Korea in the background!

7. DMZ Souvenir Shop

The last stop on our DMZ tour was a souvenir shop and it lasted for about 15 minutes. However, this wasn’t a forced shopping experience and you could choose to stay on the bus. It was a good place to buy products such as wine, chocolate and ice cream which are produced only in the DMZ area. If you’re looking for a unique gift to take back home, this might just be it.

8. Bus Ride Back

On the bus ride home, our entire tour group was pretty tired from the long day. We were back on the road about 4:00 pm so it was almost 6:00pm by the time we arrived back in Seoul . The bus ride home was much more quieter compared to the morning. We also hit a little bit more traffic heading back into the city.

The Morgan Conclusion

The DMZ is one of the few places in the world where visitors can experience first hand what a Cold War era looks and feels like . It’s a great reminder that we need to continually build peace wherever we go. It’s also the only place on earth where you’ll get to see a glimpse of North Korea through binoculars.

So is a DMZ Tour worth it?

Yes, the DMZ tour near Seoul is absolutely worth it because it’s one of the most fascinating places we’ve ever visited . A tour gave us a great perspective about the current climate of South Korea as well as the opportunity to learn about the history between North and South Korea. Personally, we think taking a DMZ tour is something any first time visitor to Seoul must experience.

Here is what we liked and didn’t like to help sway your decision:

• We had a very knowledgable tour guide and learned so much
• Ability to see places we couldn’t visit ourselves
• Tour bus provided so we didn’t have to worry about our own transport
• Left alone to explore Imjingak Park
• Affordable day trip option
• Tours may be cancelled last minute
• Having to wait for a tour time (unknown amount)
• The JSA has age restrictions for children

We learned so much about South Korea from our DMZ tour, we couldn’t learn elsewhere. Sometimes you need to experience things to better understand them for yourself. Our tour showed us the walls which easily separate democracy from communism still exist today and this is more important than ever as we look to the future. This tour is a very eye opening experience.

Our DMZ Tour Photos

We took many photos during our DMZ tour and this review wouldn’t be complete without sharing some of our favorites!

Our Seoul Guides

• 46 cool things to see in Seoul
• Best things to do at Imjingak Park
• How to visit Seoul Sky Observatory
• Guide to visiting N Seoul Tower
• How to visit Gyeongbokgung Palace
• Things to do inside Changdeokgung
• Unique things to see at Huwon Secret Garden
• Best palaces in Seoul to visit
• What to see at the Jongmyo Shrine
• How to visit the Seodaemun Prison
• 20 best hotels in Seoul South Korea

Want more Seoul content? Head over to our South Korea Travel Guides to explore the very best of Seoul and beyond.

We hope this detailed review about our DMZ tour helps you decide if this attraction should be included on your Seoul Itinerary!

Please let us know if you have any questions about the South Korea DMZ tour or traveling through Seoul in the comments below.

Happy Travels ,

Mark and Kristen

Enjoy this DMZ tour review? Pin it for your trip!

Note : This article contains affiliate links. When you make a purchase using one of these affiliate links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

All Rights Reserved © Where Are Those Morgans, LLC. Republishing this article and/or any of its contents (text, photography, maps, graphics, etc.) in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Mark and Kristen Morgan are travel, hiking and photography experts. Over the last 6 years traveling full time, they have explored more than 40 countries and 30 US states.

Where Are Those Morgans has been featured in USA Today, Gestalten, Get Your Guide, CityPASS and Condé Nast Traveler along with various other publications. Read more about us .

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Leading Culture and Adventure Travel Blog by Becki Enright. Looking at the world with a different angle to change perceptions of misunderstood places, for the best in travel.

Misunderstood Destinations , North Korea , South Korea

Visit the DMZ in North Korea and South Korea – The Story From Both Sides

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To visit the DMZ from North Korea is tense and from South Korea, less so. What is it like to tour the DMZ and JSA and witness the world’s most heavily armed border?

I remember the first time I saw what visiting the DMZ in Korea was all about. I was 15 years old and watched Michael Palin go there on one of his travel series called Full Circle. He stood in a bland-looking room, spoke of the history of the Korean War, told us how he had to basically sign his life away on a piece of paper.

He then crossed an area of the room where there was a line marking on the floor. “Here I’m in North Korea,” he said, before moving his feet just a few inches and adding, “Now I’m in South Korea.” 

I marvelled at the location of the DMZ, thinking about how you can stand in two countries at the same time, compounded by the horror that a divided Korea had such an intimidating, military-armed border. Would a trip to the world’s most heavily fortified border, dubbed “the scariest place on Earth” by former US President, Bill Clinton, during his visit in 1993, put a person’s life at risk in case of any outbreaks of gunfire, fighting, and attacks?

Rather, the DMZ Demilitarized Zone that slices Korea in two is something important to try and comprehend. Why does the DMZ exist? Is it a scary place? Why has the DMZ become a tourist attraction? Here’s what you need to know before you go. 

What is the DMZ Demilitarized Zone?

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The DMZ is a four-kilometre wide belt stretching 250 km, cutting the Korean peninsula almost in half at the 38 th parallel , and was put in place in 1953 as a ceasefire to the Korean War.

The Chinese and North Koreans pulled back 2km north and the UN forces 2km to the south, creating a ‘No Man’s Land’. Tanks, heavy artillery and mines exist on the Northern and Southern Limit Lines that are lined with barbed wire fences, but not within the DMZ itself, as was part of the armistice agreement.

Running through the middle of the 4km belt of ‘No Man’s Land’ is the Military Demarcation Line (the ‘actual’ border) and here sits Panmunjom – the “truce village”.

Within the neutral Panmunjom is the Joint Security Area (JSA). This is where negotiations between both sides took place and where today, democracy and communism now stand face-to-face in animosity. The Joint Security Area is the only section of the Korean DMZ where North and South Korean forces stand face-to-face.

The DMZ Military Demarcation Line at Panmunjom, Korea.

When you travel to the Korean DMZ on a tour, you will visit the JSA. Here, you enter the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room – the only place where anyone can freely ‘cross’ the Demarcation Line.

An explanation of the DMZ and JSA area by a North Korean guard.

I have seen the DMZ from both sides of Korea. 

For me, it’s how I wanted to see and understand it – from the TWO viewing points in Panmunjom.  I stood on the North Korean side in November 2012, and in South Korea a year later.

However, despite the viewing lines being only meters away from each other and the room you enter being the same one, they were both very different experiences.

North Korean Guards at the DMZ DPRK Side

South Korean Guards at the DMZ facing the North Korean side

Visiting the DMZ from North Korea was filled with adrenalin and a little fear. Not only were we in the world’s most closed country, but we were also on the world’s most dangerous border between two countries still technically at war.

To say we were on our guard here, despite being in the safety of a group, is an understatement. It took us around three hours to reach Panmunjom from the Capital of Pyongyang, where we all waited at a busy check-in area (complete with souvenir shops) as we watched our North Korean guides have their passports swiped firmly out of their hands.

It was time to get on the coach and drive the short way to the JSA, driving through a long road lined with large square boulders that would fall and block the road should any sign of attack be imminent (the same tactic exists on the South Korean side).

It felt tense, yet we were calmed upon arrival by the opportunity to look through historical artefacts, documents, and historical boards in a building designated as a North Korea museum – propaganda and all. It was, in fact, where the Korean Armistice Agreement was signed.

Our North Korean military guide was an approachable man, and not half as scary as I imagined him to be. He spoke the North Korean version of events, yet it wasn’t as propaganda heavy as other situations we had found ourselves in. It felt far more serious here, being so close to the ‘opposition’.

A DMZ JSA tour from North Korea.

Taking us through to the viewing platform, through an imposing, beige building, we all stood on the steps of the building looking out over to the building on the South Korean side. It was surprisingly calm, yet it felt incredibly eerie. No South Korean soldiers were present, just North Korean soldiers keeping guard.

There wasn’t the grand face-off we hear about in the media. I guess this is toned down during visits, with designated times given to both sides for tourist arrivals.

Only when we are gone, do they stand literally face-to-face with one another.

After 10 minutes or so, we were then taken into the blue hut – the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room that straddles the Demarcation Line. We were allowed to sit at the table (the ‘line’ cutting through the middle of the table) and, watched over by our guide, we all sat on either side of the table shaking hands across it, marking the peace we all wish for.

Visiting the DMZ Military Armistice Commission Conference Room

One North Korean guard stood staunchly guarding the door that leads to the South Korean side of the JSA, his fierce and set expression creating an atmosphere in the room that signalled this as very serious business. It was a day none of us could forget.

READ MORE: Travel to North Korea – Where Preconceptions and Reality Collide

In South Korea, DMZ tourism is a big business. Here, you can choose from a multitude of DMZ tours from Seoul, from full-day visits, JSA only tours to hikes and tours with North Korean defectors.

I decided on a full-day tour in order to see a series of historical sites and relics that can help formulate a better picture of the division between North and South Korea and setbacks to reunification.

The sites you see on this tour include:

The ‘Friendship Bridge’, a train station that links both countries via a single line, but whose full service is obviously not in use. However, some tours do allow you the opportunity to take a short journey on part of it, on the DMZ Peace Train from Imjingak to Dorosan Station, which you also visit. 

View to the Friendship bridge from unused sections of the railway line intended to connect South and North Korea.

The Friendship Bridge – part of a railway intended to link both countries via a single line.

The metal relic of an old steam locomotive, derailed by bombs during the Korean War.

Inside Dorasan Train Station – part of the ‘Peace Train’ intended to connect to Pyeongyang, the capital of North Korea.

Dorasan Train Station Memorial.

The Dora Observatory where you can look out over North Korea. The most prominent lookout point is to the North Korean ‘Propaganda Village’.

The Dora Observatory at the DMZ – the main lookout point facing North Korea.

Binocular views to North Korea.

The Dora Observatory where visitors eagerly gaze into North Korea’s Propaganda Village.

The North Korea Propaganda Village as seen on a DMZ tour.

The 3 rd Tunnel (Third Infiltration Tunnel) – a 1,632m tunnel dug by the North Koreans, from which they could pass through into Seoul within an hour and invade, alongside tourism documentation and video centres.

The artwork depicting reunification, marking the entrance site of the Third Infiltration Tunnel at the DMZ.

The last stop of the DMZ tour is the main site – the Joint Security Area (JSA) at Panmunjom. Here, you are shown a video and given a short introduction about South Korea’s version of events and how the US military operates here, before visiting the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room (one if the blue buildings). You are not allowed to sit down or touch anything in the Conference Room, contrary to the more relaxed visit when entering from the North Korean side. 

The most significant site when you tour the DMZ, is the Joint Security Area (JSA) Visitor Centre.

American military guides you throughout the JSA tour, seen here before entering the Conference Room.

A South Korean guard in Taekwondo stance inside the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room.

As a tourist site, there are a few aspects of the DMZ tours that conflict with the seriousness of the situation. 

For many of the tourists at the DMZ, I don’t think they really understood exactly where they were. At times, it felt like a day trip to Disneyland. This is at no fault of the tour company, which facilitates your transport between each of the sites and provides knowledgeable background and historical insights on the coach along the way, but the fault of who is behind the tourism surrounding this particular area. It could be the government, or whoever thought it was acceptable to build a fairground next to the area where the bridge is. Or those who thought it was acceptable to allow the Observation Deck to turn into a zoo-like atmosphere, surrounded by the screams of people looking through telescopes exclaiming, “Oh.My.God. I just saw an actual North Korean.” Yes, this really happened.

Never once did I feel the DMZ visit in South Korea was a serious issue or treated as a serious place.  The US soldier, our guide, was young, knowledgeable and delivered a fantastic presentation that was factual and historically sound. Yet, for the most part, it’s treated as a bit of fun peering into the hermit kingdom. While people on the ground cannot change the ignorance and stupidity of some of the tourists who visit, there could be more educational markers put in place and the enforcement of more rules to encourage a little respect.

I felt that ‘reunification’ was nothing more than a throwaway term , later confounded by many South Koreans I met who said: “Many of us are not bothered by it”.

North Korean guards were present; they lurked in the shadows and behind the pillars of the beige building I had once stood at months before. We were informed of some rules to follow – we were not to take pictures of any North Korean guards that may appear in the building in the background, and not to make any faces or hand gestures that they can film and use as propaganda, or as a means of retaliation. Whilst I felt safe, the viewing point time felt unnerving, especially being around US soldiers who had a frivolous, laddish, macho attitude, and were themselves making gestures. 

Time in the JSA conference room is more strict. Back in the blue building (the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room), we were once again told about the DMZ and the guard line, except we were not allowed to sit at the table, only stand around it. South Korean guards stood in their fierce Taekwondo stance – something of which they are famous for – yet tourists giggled and replicated the pose for photos.

That was something we would never have dreamt of doing on the North Korean side.

READ MORE: Travelling in South Korea – A Guide (But Glad I Gave it a Chance)

A visit to the DMZ is without a doubt an eye-opener and a must-see for those interested in history and current affairs. While a visit to North Korea is undoubtedly going to be fuelled by a more serious attitude, where you have to be guarded and ‘on your best behaviour’ at all times, I sadly think people miss the point when visiting on the South Korean side. A few people around me expressed disappointment with the way things were handled.

It’s a given that the majority of visitors will visit from South Korea, and so I would personally cut out the full-day tour and just stick with the specific JSA tour, yet be prepared for mixed signals regarding the seriousness of the current situation. However, for those with a deep interest in what is going on here, you will certainly take a lot more from the full-day visit of multiple sites. 

As one South Korean woman said to me: “People have lost the meaning of what the  DMZ  is and what it’s there for. Like it’s a fun thing to do.” So when you visit the DMZ be sure to remember exactly what it stands for, why it exists and the people who have died protecting the border or trying to escape from it.

Book a DMZ Tour

I visited the DMZ on the North Korean side during my trip to the country with Koryo Tours. The JSA tour formed one afternoon as part of a seven-day trip to the country.

In South Korea, my visit to the DMZ was a day tour with VIP Travel, considered to be the best DMZ/JSR tour agency in Seoul.

The full-day ‘DMZ and Panmunjeom Tour’ (from 8 am until 5 pm) runs every day (except on Sundays, Mondays, National Holidays, and Military Training Days) and costs 135,000 Korean Won / around $120 US per person. You can read a full overview of the trip here.

The sites you see on this tour are:   Imjingak Park → The Bridge of Freedom → The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel → DMZ Theater & Exhibition Hall → Dora Observatory → Dorasan Station → Pass by Unification Village → ID Check Point → Camp Bonifas → JSA (Freedom House, Conference Room)

Bookings need to be made at least 48 hours before the chosen day of the tour.

About Becki

Becki Enright is a British Travel Press Award-winning writer whose work focuses on changing perceptions about misunderstood aspects of destinations. Her writing combines storytelling with insight into the social, historical, political and economic factors that shape the country or place in relation to tourism. Becki has appeared live on Sky News and CNN and has contributed to high profile media including National Geographic, Time.com, Guardian online, New York Times, Grazia and Buzzfeed.

Arthur Hernandez says

16 March 2019 at 6:00 am

December 1967 thru January 1968. I was assigned as an Army medic to an infantry company with the 2nd Infantry Division that made patrols along the DMZ. We lived in tents in the JSA area. I remember that there was a chopper pad, a small hut that served as a PX where we bought Playboy, candy, writing stationery, tooth paste and other small items that were part of our infantry lives. Along the DMZ on our patrols there was not much of a fence and sometimes you would see holes that had been cut so that a person(s) could make their way through. We found a tunnel and the Captain lined up five infantry guys shoulder to shoulder with full packs to get an idea of how many troops could pass through. I remember Freedom Village, Freedom Bridge and the Imjin River. Most of all, I remember the grunts, the Infantry guys. I do not remember so much their names but their faces when it was bitter cold and it snowed or it rained sheets of rain and they did guard duty in foxholes manning the 50 caliber machine gun. During this time period, the Pueblo ship was seized and North Korean infiltrators came across to kill the South Korean President. On one of our patrols, we captured two of them and killed one of them who was about to throw a grenade. Second Infantry Division-Second to None! I salute the grunts who called me Doc and took care of me. I still remember.

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Touring Korea’s DMZ

“If you look to your right you’ll see a large building. In the third window in on the fourth floor, you’ll see a North Korean sniper. His job is to watch us. Please, don’t point or wave.”

Yeah, shit just got real.

It’s 8am on a cool October morning and myself and a dozen other tourists just came to the realization that touring Korea’s DMZ (demilitarized zone) isn’t all fun and games. All that separates us from death (and the outset of a second Korean War) is the trigger finger of one doubtlessly underfed and underpaid North Korean soldier. It’s a sobering thought.

There are countless companies offering tours of the infamous DMZ, but only the USO gives access to the JSA (Joint Security Area) – which is as close to North Korea as most people will ever get. In fact, at one point during the tour, you’re actually able to stand on North Korean soil. It shouldn’t mean much, but there’s a strange rush in standing on soil that belongs to one of the most secretive nations in the modern world.

Starting out at the crack of dawn, my friends and I made our bleary eyed way to the USO Base in the heart of Seoul. In a reflection of just how isolated the city of Gwangju is from the rest of the world, I think most of us are more excited about a vending machine stocked with American soda and candy than we are about the tour itself. At 7am in the morning, nothing sounds more appealing than a handful of Jolly Ranchers washed down with a can of ice cold Dr. Pepper. The breakfast of champions.

Soon we’re bundled onto the bus and making our way through the empty streets and up towards the DMZ. On the way we’re given a brief introduction to the whole experience by the US serviceman charged with acting as tourguide/babysitter for the morning, but most of us are still preoccupied with our American junkfood/trying to snatch a few more minutes of sleep. While some of our party lived in Seoul, most of us had caught the 2am bus from Gwangju and hadn’t managed much sleep during the journey.

Our first stop of the day is Camp Bonifas, where we’re brought into a briefing room and shown a short slide show detailing the history of the Korean War and the establishment of the DMZ. With the lecture given by a hard as nails soldier rather than a tourism worker with relentless optimism, we’re immediately hit with the fact that this is a very real and potentially dangerous place to be. While incidents on the actual border are few and far between, it’s a rare year where the world media doesn’t sensationalize some melee between the South and it’s insular northern neighbors.

From there, we’re divided into smaller groups and taken out to experience the most heavily militiarized border in the world first hand. Our first stop is also the most memorable, as we’re taken past our sniper friend and into the MAC (Military Armistice Commission) building – the site where North and South Korean officials can ostensibly meet to discuss things on neutral ground. On the South Korean side of the border are local Korean soldiers standing board straight and stock still as they monitor the north. You can’t see many North Korean soldiers, but we’re assured that they’re there. The glint of a rifle scope in the window of a building across the border is all the reminder I need. If any of us were stupid enough to try and enter into North Korea, we’d be dead before our feet touched northern soil.

The room itself is unremarkable, split in two by the border between the two countries and  painted in an unassuming blue. It is filled with polished tables. There are foot prints on these tables, which I am told are from North Korean soldiers who stand barefoot on them at night with their backs to South Korea in a sign of disrespect. I can’t imagine they’re not doing this on orders from higher up. The soldiers in the room with us are South Korean, but they don’t move as we enter and remain unmoving as we walk around the room and pose for photos.

“Don’t go too close to them,” our US guide informs us, “They are trained to put you down with lethal force if necessary. Even we don’t go near them”.

It’s a far cry from the carefree drunkards that you typically encounter in South Korean bars and noraebangs. These young men are, in spite of their slight appearances, capable of exerting lethal force if need be. After all, it’s these brave draftees who stand between modern South Korea and the war machine that is the North Korean military.

All too soon we’re moving away from the border and onto the areas that are accessible by other DMZ tours. I won’t lie – it was a relief to have the threat of death by trigger happy North Korean sniper lifted from above my head.  We visit a variety of other sites including the Pagoda at Freedom House (which I don’t recall), and the infamous Checkpoint #3. This last site’s bloody past signalled the end of a shared DMZ after North Korean soldiers used axes to murder a pair of unarmed US soldiers who were in the process of trimming some poplar trees. While the tree under which the murders took place has long since been cut down, a monument still remains to the moment that could well have sparked a renewal of hostilities between north and south.

After that sobering sight comes the Bridge of No Return. At the time I visited, this was the sole link between North and South Korea. The tour doesn’t allow tourists to stop and look at the bridge, but a brief glimpse out my window as the bus rolled passed still painted a grim picture of the vast difference between north and south.

The tour then covers a variety of other sites. There’s a stop off at a lookout to witness the aptly named Propaganda Village – from which a massive flag and loudspeakers proclaim North Korea’s ‘superiority’ over its southern cousins. This is followed by a long (and not particularly interesting) lecture about the surrounding region. Truth be told, I spent this portion of the tour catching up on some much needed sleep.

There are also visits to the four tunnels which the North Koreans have dug in the past to access South Korean soil – including the 1.7km long Third Tunnel of Aggression which came perilously close to Seoul and could have allowed up to 30,000 soldiers an hour to march onto Korean soil had it been completed.

Touring the tunnel was certainly an experience. After descending seemingly forever, the cramped and damp confines of the tunnel really tested the claustrophobic in me. There’s only so much dynamite blasted rock and exposed piping one can see before things get a bit dull, but there’s no turning back once you’re in the crowded tunnel. Still, after a morning spent largely in a bus eating junk food, the exercise is certainly a welcome change of pace.

The day ends in the park surrounding the aforementioned tunnel. There’s artworks and various tourist things for you to check out – including a gift shop where you can buy everything from t-shirts to pieces of barbed wire salvaged from the actual DMZ. They’re all affordable too – like most things in the peninsula.

All told, the tour took about four hours and ranged from ridiculously cool (the JSA in particular) to mind-numbingly dull (the lecture towards the end). But truth is, the price of admission is worth it solely for the thrill of standing on North Korean soil and being in the midst of one of the most hostile environments in the world. Rememebr: North & South Korea are still technically at war. This isn’t some old border that no longer has any significance, and you’re constantly reminded of that as you tour the area.

If you’re looking to do a DMZ tour, contact the USO. You might find cheaper tours elsewhere, but none of them will take you to the JSA and none of them are of the same quality. It’s an early morning start, but suck it up – experiences like this are worth a little tiredness.

All photos courtesy of Kirk Murray.

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DMZ: All Access Cards on Building 21 Explained - Location & Secret Rooms

On the DMZ map Building 21 in Warzone 2 , you can find various key or access cards. In our guide we will tell you which access cards are available, where you can find them and what they are good for.

Here's what's going on: The new Warzone 2 DMZ map called Building 21 offers you a total of 4 different key cards. A fifth one, if you count the access card you have to find in Al Mazrah to even enter Building 21. Today we'll explain what the black, blue, green, and red key cards are and where you can find them.

These are All the Key Cards on Building 21 in DMZ

Unlike the standard access card, which stays for a week and gives you access to Building 21, you can use the rest of the key cards only once. However, you can collect them and take them again and again, as long as you don't use them up or lose them.

The Blue Access Card

Here you can find blue Access cards: You can find the blue key cards, like the standard access card, on Al Mazrah. You can find them in orange crates and supply drops:

• Air Drops: planes often drop supply crates over the map, secure and search them.
• Boss Supply Drops: Kill a boss, like the Chemist, and loot his supply crate.
• SAM Site Drops: Capture an air defense and complete the associated tasks. Then loot the drops.

You can also find the blue key cards inside building 21. However, they are distributed quite randomly and can be contained in bags or in defeated enemies.

You will need blue access cards for this: go to the data center on the first floor, where you also need to go when collecting weapon crates and go to the room opposite. Directly on the left, you will find the blue door to open. Here you will find orange supply boxes, gas masks, revival kits, money, and more.

The Red Access Card

Here you can find red access cards: You can also find the red key cards on Al Mazrah. Also in orange crates and supply drops:

• Air Drops: planes drop supply crates over the map more often, secure and search them.

Also in building 21 you can find randomly distributed red key cards. Either in various boxes and bags or in defeated enemies.

You will need red access cards for this: Open the red door on the second floor in the offices at the northern end of the map. Here you will also find plenty of high-quality loot.

The Green Access Card

Here you can find green access cards: The green key cards cannot be found on Al Mazrah, but only on building 21. They are also not dropped randomly by enemies. Instead, you get them when you open safes in secured zones. These zones are always somewhere else, for example on the second floor in the archive room or on the first floor in the generator room.

For this you need green access cards: With the green key card you open the green doors, of course. There are also several of these in building 21, but they are all on the first floor in the garage and the surrounding area. Here you will also find the same loot as with the red and blue key cards:

The Black Access Card

Here you can find black access cards: The black key card is guaranteed to drop the boss in building 21, but Velikan only appears later, about halfway through the timer. He is a tough guy and hard to defeat. Our Velikan guide will tell you, how to beat him .

You will need black access cards: The room with the black door can be found on the first floor again. From the garage, walk along the southern corridor towards the west, and you will come across the door with an engraved circle on it. The room is secret and therefore not marked on the regular map that you can find on every staircase. Here again, you will find plenty of loot and weapons.

Would you like to join our community and discuss Warzone 2 DMZ? Then join our Discord server , we look forward to seeing you!

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Best of Moscow by high speed train

By shuguley , February 15, 2014 in Regent Seven Seas Cruises

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Sure would appreciate someone who has taken "Best of Moscow by high speed train" from St. Petersburg could please share their impressions of this shore excursion. From the description this sounds like a very long day.

Wondering how the 4 hour train trip was in terms of accommodations, etc. Also what time did you leave the ship and what time at night did you return? Were both legs of the trip on the high speed rail (I read that slower trains also travel the same tracks)?

My wife and I are considering this excursion. We thought that if we are making all the effort to go to Russia then how could we pass up going to Moscow, walking in Red Square, seeing St. Basil, etc.

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If you are considering this on the 2015 June Baltic cruise on Voyager; my suggestion is don't. There is so much to do in St. Petersburg and although a train is one of my favorite ways to travel the time would be far better spent in St. P.

Thanks for the advice. Yes, this would be on the Voyager during the 2015 season but not yet sure exactly which cruise.

We did the Moscow excursion "on a different luxury line", but from your brief description it sounds very much like the same trip, so I will operate on that assumption. It is a VERY long day! We left the ship at 5:30 AM and returned at 12:30 AM. The highspeed train trip is comfortable, and while they call it "Business Class" it does not compare well to the equivalent class on say Rail Europe. When we did it in 2011, we did have highspeed both ways, and the trip back seemed much longer as the adrenaline and excitement had worn off!:D

Moscow itself is not that terribly different from any other big city in the world, but this Cold War kid never thought he would ever stand in Red Square, never mind walk the grounds of The Kremlin, or tour The Kremlin Palace, or see (but not visit) Lenin's Tomb, or visit The Armoury. But he did, and he loved every minute of it! Yes, it is a long day, and you barely scratch a scratch on the surface, but it is worth it. There is a tremendous amount to see in St. Petersburg, but every Baltic cruise goes to St. Petersburg, so you can go back if you choose to. Not every cruiseline offers you the chance to see Moscow.

I have not personally done this tour, but our last time in St Petersburg, the private guide that we hired for a day was leading the regent tour to Moscow on the high speed train the next day. He said it was way better than the previous alternative, which was flying to Moscow and back. He said that you actually got to Moscow faster because you didn't have to deal with airline checkin etc. it did seem like a very long day to me, and there is so much to see and do in st. Petersburg that I didn't consider doing it.

countflorida

We toured to Moscow from St. Petersburg via the hi-speed SAPSAN train last September, from a Baltic cruise on the Oceania Marina. You need to have a two-night, three day port call in St. Petersburg to take this tour because the tour typically leaves the ship around 5:00 - 5:30 AM and doesn't return until after midnight the next day. We didn't take the ship's tour; we made private arrangements with TravelAllRussia for three days of touring, the first and third days in St. Petersburg and the second day the tour to Moscow by train. Our cost for the private tour for three days was about the same as what the ship charged for the excursion to Moscow alone. There are a number of private tour agencies that operate in St. Petersburg and offer the Moscow train tours; we would strongly recommend them over the ship's tours.

All three days had private guides with car and driver. The second day, the driver picked us up at the ship and took us to the train, but we were alone on the train, and met in Moscow by the guide on the station platform. After our tour and dinner, we were brought back to the train and after the return train trip met by the driver and taken back to the ship. Because you are alone on the train you must have your own Russian visas.

If this is your first visit to St. Petersburg, I would agree there is much more to see there. We found Moscow somewhat a disappointment, particularly Red Square. The Kremlin and the cathedral in Red Square were also worth seeing. But the best thing we saw was the Moscow subway! I worked for the Washington Metro system back in the 1980s as it grew from 40 to 80 miles and although I was in the computer area, I learned a lot about the challenges of running a subway system. We used the Moscow system to get across the city from where we had dinner to the train station, and I was amazed at the cleanliness', speed of operation, the short headways maintained, and the courtesy of everyone involved. A very impressive experience!

We had been to St. Petersburg before, and so had the time to take a day and go to Moscow. Also, I really like trains, and the SAPSAN is a German train set running on Russian rails. Seats are like first class domestic air, spacious but not too plush or comfortable, but with enough room. Not too much recline, and almost 8 hours on the train in two shots is a lot for an old man. They come through and sell drinks, candy, etc. but the sellers don't speak English and no one around us helped, so we had just poor coffee once coming, and brought stuff with us for the trip back. Not too much to see from the train either, particularly on the return when it is night the whole way.

If you decide to go, take a private tour and avoid the overly expensive ship's tour. I'm glad we did it, but wouldn't bother to repeat the tour; we've seen Moscow.

Thanks so much to all of you for the thorough and thought insight. Yhe information you have provided is most helpful.

countflorida: Your detailed post is very helpful. We are not quite ready for a Baltic cruise but should do so within a year. Time enough to do our pre travel research, bookings and visa gathering.:) Thank you!

Emperor Norton

Sure would appreciate someone who has taken "Best of Moscow by high speed train" from St. Petersburg could please share their impressions of this shore excursion. From the description this sounds like a very long day.   Wondering how the 4 hour train trip was in terms of accommodations, etc. Also what time did you leave the ship and what time at night did you return? Were both legs of the trip on the high speed rail (I read that slower trains also travel the same tracks)?   My wife and I are considering this excursion. We thought that if we are making all the effort to go to Russia then how could we pass up going to Moscow, walking in Red Square, seeing St. Basil, etc.

I did this on Seabourn. IMO DONT. Take Aeroflop (er Aeroflot). The train has non folding seats where you are literally knee to knee with your fellow passenger (facing each other). Further they don't believe in air conditioning. It's also the worlds slowed bullet train. I think I would have found more enjoyment wandering around the St. Petersburg and Moscow airports.

Countflorida,

This is a little off topic,, however we had planned a river cruise in Russia but decided we would rather stay on land and have booked about two weeks with Travel-All-Russia using the private guide and driver. I'm curious as to how you found them as a tour company.

The guides they provided were fine. We had a different guide each of the days in St. Petersburg, but both were flexible, pleasant, knowledgeable and spoke English very well, as did the guide in Moscow, incidentally. She was a bit aloof, distant, not too friendly, but otherwise fine. In fact, she was the one who suggested taking the Metro, which unexpectedly became one of the highlights of the Moscow excursion. If I have a complaint with AllTravelRussia, it is with their plan and its execution (more later).

I had requested emphasis on World War II (in Russia, the Great Patriotic War) sites and info. In scheduling us, they weren't careful about dates and a couple of the sites we wanted to see were scheduled on the third day, after we'd been to Moscow. But both sites were closed that day of the week, and that info was readily available, right on web sites describing them. Also, the included meals (lunches in St. Pete, dinner in Moscow) were not what we asked for: light meals with some choices, so we could avoid things we didn't like and choose things we did like. My request was ignored; we were given full Russian meals with a fixed menu, no choice. On the first day, a fish dish was the entre, but I am allergic to fish. Fortunately, I had the e-mail I'd sent with me and showed it to the guide, and she was able to change my entre to chicken, which was very good actually. But we didn't want a 3-4 course lunches or dinner (in Moscow). We had the guide drop the lunch the third day, although we never got any credit or refund. But, particularly in contrast to the ship's tours, the prices were so reasonable we didn't worry too much about it.

The people who were on the ship's tour to Moscow saw us boarding the same train for which they were forced to queue up and wait on the way back, and asked us what we had done. I was candid and open so they were not happy when I explained what we had arranged and particularly what it had cost. Also, when we returned to the ship, we found they had laid on a late supper for those who had gone to Moscow, so up we went and had something. Well, it turns out the late supper was supposed to be just for those on the ship's tour, but we and others on 'independent' tours, there were a dozen or more of us, crashed the party, actually got there first, and they didn't realize it until the larger group arrived and there weren't enough tables/places set. By that time, the 'independents' had all gotten served and were eating; what could they do?

A couple from the larger group sat down with us and asked us about our tour, and they were the ones I told about our arrangement and its cost. They turned to others who’d been with them and announced the details, loudly enough so the whole room heard, which started a lot of bitching and complaining. I gathered they weren't very happy with the ship's tour to begin with, and this was the straw that broke the camel's back. We finished up and beat it out of there, but overheard later that one of the excursion staff came to check on something and ran into a real mess. I caught a cold on the trip, which forced me to bed the second day following in Tallinn, so by the time we reappeared we heard about the contretemps' but apparently no one recalled who started it, thankfully.

Because of what happened to us, I would probably not use AllTravelRussia if I were to go again, or if I did, I would be sure to get confirmation of every detail of the tour. They do have good reviews generally, and we were certainly helped by their visa department and liked the guides and drivers. Their weakness, I say now with full 20:20 hindsight, is that once the sales person who plans the tour, sells it to you and collects your money, he (or she) transfers the plan to their Russia office for implementation; there is no follow-up to make sure it gets done right. And that is where our problems arose; we paid for a custom tour but got a standard package with a few destinations switched, and no one checked them out, even to see when they were open the day we were scheduled to go. If you check every detail that’s important to you, it should be OK, but that’s a hell of a way to have to do business, in my opinion.

Thank you for the 20/20 hindsight observation on your Russian tour operator, and better priced than the ship's excursion cost.

Thanks very much for the feedback.

We had the same experience as you so far as price. We originally booked a Viking Cruise but, hearing some things about the river cruises that made us unhappy, looked into other options. T-A-R cost the same or less than a cruise and had us in hotels for 11 days. We opted for the private tour. They have three tour levels, based on hotels. We originally opted for the four star as it did not cost much more than the three star hotels. Finally we decided to throw it all in and upgraded to five star. In Moscow we will be at the newly opened Kempinsky which is two blocks from Red Square. In St. Petersburg it is the Grand Hotel Europe, one of the most vaunted luxury hotels in Russia. Location is important for us as the tours use up only part of the day so being in the center of everything for our independent touring is important. As with many other cities, the less you pay, the farther out of the center of town you are.

We have been working with our salesman in D.C. and he seems to get back to us with the changes we want. He recently returned from Russia so is up on everything. When I asked they said they paid the full TA commission if I wanted so I got my usual TA on board so he is watching our back and giving us that extra level of comfort. He also set up our air, which I know pays him little or nothing, and got us business class for much less than T-A-R wanted for economy, though it took working for a while with a consolidator. He's happy to get his 10 percent on this trip without having booked it. He also took care of the trip insurance. We've been doing a lot of research on the CC sister site Trip Advisor and will write a report there. We will, I guess, become a source of info for CC members after having spent 5 days in Moscow and 6 in SP.

• 4 months later...

scubacruiserx2

Anybody considering a day trip to Moscow from St. Petersburg on the Sapsan may want to look at our travelogue filled with pictures.

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1927687

Very informative. Thanks dor sharing. Jeff

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Radisson Collection Hotel, Moscow

Stay in palatial style on the Moskva River

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Welcome to our striking hotel with modern amenities in Moscow

Discover Moscow from one of its most iconic architectural symbols nestled along the banks of the Moskva River. Inside the landmark property, grandeur and opulence reign: from beautifully appointed rooms, suites, and serviced apartments to impressive amenities such as the 19 elegant restaurants, innovative sports and wellness facilities, and a panoramic bar on the 31st floor. Palatial surroundings, an excellent location, and exclusive services await.

Centrally located, the Radisson Collection Hotel, Moscow offers excellent transportation links to the four surrounding airports and top attractions. The hotel also commands a flotilla of ten yachts, offering year-round river cruises for a unique perspective of city landmarks.

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At Radisson Collection Hotel, Moscow, the take-away breakfast includes the following and has a cost of RUB 3950. 

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The Comprehensive Guide to Moscow Nightlife

• Posted on April 14, 2018 July 26, 2018
• by Kings of Russia
• 8 minute read

Moscow’s nightlife scene is thriving, and arguably one of the best the world has to offer – top-notch Russian women, coupled with a never-ending list of venues, Moscow has a little bit of something for everyone’s taste. Moscow nightlife is not for the faint of heart – and if you’re coming, you better be ready to go Friday and Saturday night into the early morning.

This comprehensive guide to Moscow nightlife will run you through the nuts and bolts of all you need to know about Moscow’s nightclubs and give you a solid blueprint to operate with during your time in Moscow.

What you need to know before hitting Moscow nightclubs

Prices in moscow nightlife.

Before you head out and start gaming all the sexy Moscow girls , we have to talk money first. Bring plenty because in Moscow you can never bring a big enough bankroll. Remember, you’re the man so making a fuzz of not paying a drink here or there will not go down well.

Luckily most Moscow clubs don’t do cover fees. Some electro clubs will charge 15-20$, depending on their lineup. There’s the odd club with a minimum spend of 20-30$, which you’ll drop on drinks easily. By and large, you can scope out the venues for free, which is a big plus.

Bottle service is a great deal in Moscow. At top-tier clubs, it starts at 1,000$. That’ll go a long way with premium vodka at 250$, especially if you have three or four guys chipping in. Not to mention that it’s a massive status boost for getting girls, especially at high-end clubs.

Without bottle service, you should estimate a budget of 100-150$ per night. That is if you drink a lot and hit the top clubs with the hottest girls. Scale down for less alcohol and more basic places.

Dress code & Face control

Door policy in Moscow is called “face control” and it’s always the guy behind the two gorillas that gives the green light if you’re in or out.

In Moscow nightlife there’s only one rule when it comes to dress codes:

You can never be underdressed.

People dress A LOT sharper than, say, in the US and that goes for both sexes. For high-end clubs, you definitely want to roll with a sharp blazer and a pocket square, not to mention dress shoes in tip-top condition. Those are the minimum requirements to level the playing field vis a vis with other sharply dressed guys that have a lot more money than you do. Unless you plan to hit explicit electro or underground clubs, which have their own dress code, you are always on the money with that style.

Getting in a Moscow club isn’t as hard as it seems: dress sharp, speak English at the door and look like you’re in the mood to spend all that money that you supposedly have (even if you don’t). That will open almost any door in Moscow’s nightlife for you.

Types of Moscow Nightclubs

In Moscow there are four types of clubs with the accompanying female clientele:

High-end clubs:

These are often crossovers between restaurants and clubs with lots of tables and very little space to dance. Heavy accent on bottle service most of the time but you can work the room from the bar as well. The hottest and most expensive girls in Moscow go there. Bring deep pockets and lots of self-confidence and you have a shot at swooping them.

Regular Mid-level clubs:

They probably resemble more what you’re used to in a nightclub: big dancefloors, stages and more space to roam around. Bottle service will make you stand out more but you can also do well without. You can find all types of girls but most will be in the 6-8 range. Your targets should always be the girls drinking and ideally in pairs. It’s impossible not to swoop if your game is at least half-decent.

Basic clubs/dive bars:

Usually spots with very cheap booze and lax face control. If you’re dressed too sharp and speak no Russian, you might attract the wrong type of attention so be vigilant. If you know the local scene you can swoop 6s and 7s almost at will. Usually students and girls from the suburbs.

Electro/underground clubs:

Home of the hipsters and creatives. Parties there don’t mean meeting girls and getting drunk but doing pills and spacing out to the music. Lots of attractive hipster girls if that is your niche. That is its own scene with a different dress code as well.

What time to go out in Moscow

Moscow nightlife starts late. Don’t show up at bars and preparty spots before 11pm because you’ll feel fairly alone. Peak time is between 1am and 3am. That is also the time of Moscow nightlife’s biggest nuisance: concerts by artists you won’t know and who only distract your girls from drinking and being gamed. From 4am to 6am the regular clubs are emptying out but plenty of people, women included, still hit up one of the many afterparty clubs. Those last till well past 10am.

As far as days go: Fridays and Saturdays are peak days. Thursday is an OK day, all other days are fairly weak and you have to know the right venues.

The Ultimate Moscow Nightclub List

Short disclaimer: I didn’t add basic and electro clubs since you’re coming for the girls, not for the music. This list will give you more options than you’ll be able to handle on a weekend.

Preparty – start here at 11PM

Classic restaurant club with lots of tables and a smallish bar and dancefloor. Come here between 11pm and 12am when the concert is over and they start with the actual party. Even early in the night tons of sexy women here, who lean slightly older (25 and up).

The second floor of the Ugolek restaurant is an extra bar with dim lights and house music tunes. Very small and cozy with a slight hipster vibe but generally draws plenty of attractive women too. A bit slower vibe than Valenok.

Very cool, spread-out venue that has a modern library theme. Not always full with people but when it is, it’s brimming with top-tier women. Slow vibe here and better for grabbing contacts and moving on.

High-end: err on the side of being too early rather than too late because of face control.

Secret Room

Probably the top venue at the moment in Moscow . Very small but wildly popular club, which is crammed with tables but always packed. They do parties on Thursdays and Sundays as well. This club has a hip-hop/high-end theme, meaning most girls are gold diggers, IG models, and tattooed hip hop chicks. Very unfavorable logistics because there is almost no room no move inside the club but the party vibe makes it worth it. Strict face control.

Close to Secret Room and with a much more favorable and spacious three-part layout. This place attracts very hot women but also lots of ball busters and fakes that will leave you blue-balled. Come early because after 4am it starts getting empty fast. Electronic music.

A slightly kitsch restaurant club that plays Russian pop and is full of gold diggers, semi-pros, and men from the Caucasus republics. Thursday is the strongest night but that dynamic might be changing since Secret Room opened its doors. You can swoop here but it will be a struggle.

Mid-level: your sweet spot in terms of ease and attractiveness of girls for an average budget.

Started going downwards in 2018 due to lax face control and this might get even worse with the World Cup. In terms of layout one of the best Moscow nightclubs because it’s very big and bottle service gives you a good edge here. Still attracts lots of cute girls with loose morals but plenty of provincial girls (and guys) as well. Swooping is fairly easy here.

I haven’t been at this place in over a year, ever since it started becoming ground zero for drunken teenagers. Similar clientele to Icon but less chic, younger and drunker. Decent mainstream music that attracts plenty of tourists. Girls are easy here as well.

Sort of a Coyote Ugly (the real one in Moscow sucks) with party music and lots of drunken people licking each others’ faces. Very entertaining with the right amount of alcohol and very easy to pull in there. Don’t think about staying sober in here, you’ll hate it.

Artel Bessonitsa/Shakti Terrace

Electronic music club that is sort of a high-end place with an underground clientele and located between the teenager clubs Icon and Gipsy. Very good music but a bit all over the place with their vibe and their branding. You can swoop almost any type of girl here from high-heeled beauty to coked-up hipsters, provided they’re not too sober.

Afterparty: if by 5AM  you haven’t pulled, it’s time to move here.

Best afterparty spot in terms of trying to get girls. Pretty much no one is sober in there and savage gorilla game goes a long way. Lots of very hot and slutty-looking girls but it can be hard to tell apart who is looking for dick and who is just on drugs but not interested. If by 9-10am you haven’t pulled, it is probably better to surrender.

The hipster alternative for afterparties, where even more drugs are in play. Plenty of attractive girls there but you have to know how to work this type of club. A nicer atmosphere and better music but if you’re desperate to pull, you’ll probably go to Miks.

Weekday jokers: if you’re on the hunt for some sexy Russian girls during the week, here are two tips to make your life easier.

Chesterfield

Ladies night on Wednesdays means this place gets pretty packed with smashed teenagers and 6s and 7s. Don’t pull out the three-piece suit in here because it’s a “simpler” crowd. Definitely your best shot on Wednesdays.

If you haven’t pulled at Chesterfield, you can throw a Hail Mary and hit up Garage’s Black Music Wednesdays. Fills up really late but there are some cute Black Music groupies in here. Very small club. Thursday through Saturday they do afterparties and you have an excellent shot and swooping girls that are probably high.

Shishas Sferum

This is pretty much your only shot on Mondays and Tuesdays because they offer free or almost free drinks for women. A fairly low-class club where you should watch your drinks. As always the case in Moscow, there will be cute girls here on any day of the week but it’s nowhere near as good as on the weekend.

In a nutshell, that is all you need to know about where to meet Moscow girls in nightlife. There are tons of options, and it all depends on what best fits your style, based on the type of girls that you’re looking for.

Related Topics

• moscow girls
• moscow nightlife

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