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The Recovery in Air Travel from China Is Happening… But It’s Super Slow

Christiana Sciaudone, Skift

July 15th, 2024 at 12:35 PM EDT

The travel industry has been counting on the return of visitors from China. But getting back to 2019 levels is taking much longer than expected.

International air travel from China is recovering, but set to remain at a fraction of what it was in 2019, according to data platform OAG. 

Last year, Chinese business travel spending fell 4.6% as the country has fallen to number two in business travel for the first time since 2014. It had been expected to recover back to the top spot by the end of 2023, but that’s unlikely to have happened, according to the Global Business Travel Association, which will release its final tally in coming weeks.  

“Like the year before, I think China didn’t come back in as big a way internationally and so I think the U.S. will remain the top traveling country in the world,” said Suzanne Neufang, executive director of GBTA. 

And while the frequency of flights between China and the U.S. will more than double this year from last, it will still be one quarter of pre-pandemic frequency thanks to the weak local economy and geopolitical tensions. 

Flights between the countries are estimated to total 4,228 in 2024. That’s up a lot from last year’s 1,435, but in 2019, the same routes totaled more than 17,000 flights. According to OAG, that won’t recover until 2026 at the earliest.

“The expected outpouring of Chinese travelers desperate to get to Thailand and other such destinations didn’t materialize, and that’s a change that is likely to stay with us for some time because of the Chinese economy being weaker,” John Grant, chief analyst at OAG, said in a video interview last month. 

Strength in Domestic Travel

China was one of the last countries to open its borders following pandemic-led closures when it welcomed foreigners back in 2023. 

Domestic travel in China is strong in part because the government has encouraged it, and in part because of the weakness of the yuan. Big overseas airlines are “not putting as much emphasis in getting back there,” Grant said.

Chinese travelers are staying close to home and domestic destinations have benefited, with domestic travel during Lunar New Year exceeding pre-pandemic levels by 19%, according to McKinsey .

Bloomberg reported that the number of travelers carried so far this year is up 45% from last year, according to data from the Association of Asia Pacific Airlines, whose members include Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific Airways, Japan Airlines and Taiwan’s China Airlines. That’s still 13% below 2019 and May data shows that growth is slowing.

Tensions between the U.S. and China ties, the weak Chinese recovery and geopolitical complications (Chinese airlines can fly over Russia, while others cannot).     

The Future’s Uncertain

When will things improve? Maybe never, according to a study by the Asian Development Bank (ADB).

The aviation sector should brace for “a possible permanent reduction in future growth” and for “a potentially long period of high volatility with possible rapid increases or decreases in demand” amid reduced business travel with greater workplace flexibility, more online meetings and increased commitments to emissions reductions.

The sector is still optimistic. Amadeus, for example, said Asia-Pacific was the best performing region for the company in the first quarter of the year, expanding by 31%.

And China is still the second-largest domestic market in the world, totaling $744 billion to the U.S.’s $1 trillion in annual spending, McKinsey said. 

While international visitor spending is expected to remain more than 25% behind 2019 levels this year, the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC) found that the China domestic travel sector is set to inject a record-breaking ¥6.79 trillion ($933 billion) into the economy in 2024. The uneven recovery comes after a push from the Chinese government to support local travel while a weaker economy and softer currency hurts foreign travel.

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Tags: china , china outbound

Photo credit: Air travel from China is slowly recovering lasta29 / Wikimedia Commons

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Modi’s Moscow Visit Showcases a Less Isolated Putin, Angering Ukraine

Prime Minister Narendra Modi of India made his first visit to Russia in five years, even as Ukraine reeled from an attack on a children’s hospital.

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By Paul Sonne and Anupreeta Das

They hugged and strolled under the trees. They sipped tea and exchanged thoughts for hours. They petted horses together at the stables.

The jovial scenes between President Vladimir V. Putin of Russia and Prime Minister Narendra Modi of India, captured during the Indian leader’s first visit to Russia in five years, illustrated a sobering reality.

Despite the West’s campaign to isolate Russia over its 2022 invasion of Ukraine, other nations have pursued their own interests with regard to Moscow, helping Mr. Putin shore up the Russian economy and continue to wage his war. India, which has close ties to the United States, has emerged as the second-biggest importer of Russian oil after China in the years since the invasion.

Mr. Modi’s state visit, which began late Monday with a trip to Mr. Putin’s residence outside Moscow, underscored the point. At the Kremlin on Tuesday, Mr. Putin awarded Mr. Modi the Order of St. Andrew, the Russian government’s highest civilian honor, expressing “sincere gratitude” for his contribution to relations between their states.

“We have had two and a half years now of endless Russian atrocities, and most of the world is not daunted or uncomfortable maintaining some kind of business as usual with Moscow,” said Andrew S. Weiss, the vice president for studies at the Washington-based Carnegie Endowment for International Peace. “That’s a really sad commentary on Russia’s continued geopolitical weight.”

While Mr. Modi was hugging the Russian leader late Monday, rescue workers and volunteers in Kyiv were clearing away rubble from a Russian strike on Ukraine’s biggest pediatric hospital . Images of children outside the destroyed medical facility with their IVs still attached, or in some cases covered in blood, wrenched a nation that has been exhausted by more than two years of Russian bombardment.

“It is a huge disappointment and a devastating blow to peace efforts to see the leader of the world’s largest democracy hug the world’s most bloody criminal in Moscow on such a day,” Ukraine’s president, Volodymyr Zelensky, wrote on X .

The state visit was also juxtaposed against the gathering of NATO countries on Tuesday in Washington, where they discussed continued support for Ukraine.

Western governments have failed to persuade India and many other governments around the world to take a public position against Mr. Putin’s war. Mr. Modi has avoided condemning Russia’s invasion and instead issued general calls for peace, maintaining the warm relations with Moscow that India has cultivated since the days of the Cold War.

The Indian leader said he had discussed Ukraine with Mr. Putin at his residence, agreeing on the need for peace as soon as possible.

“Any person who believes in humanity feels pain when people die, and especially when innocent children die,” Mr. Modi said Tuesday, a possible implicit reference to the hospital attack. “When we feel such pain, the heart simply explodes, and I had the opportunity to talk about these issues with you yesterday.”

The state visit offered still more evidence that Mr. Putin has managed to avoid the pariah status Western leaders tried to force on him after the invasion. Mr. Putin has maintained a robust diplomatic schedule holding two meetings with China’s leader , Xi Jinping, in two months, along with meeting the leaders of Vietnam , Hungary , Belarus and the nations of Central Asia,

On Tuesday, Indian officials said that the two countries had struck various agreements to strengthen economic ties, with the goal of reaching $100 billion in bilateral trade by 2030.

Russia and India also said they would strengthen their military cooperation, including manufacturing more weapon spare parts and units in India. They pledged to continue developing national payment systems, which allow Russia to conduct trade outside U.S. dollars and away from platforms impacted by Western sanctions.

Mr. Modi, who said he had met Mr. Putin 17 times over the course of the past decade, invited Mr. Putin to visit India next year.

“Russia is India’s true friend,” Mr. Modi said at a meeting with members of the Indian community in Moscow, according to the Russian state news agency Tass.

While India imported little Russian crude before the invasion of Ukraine, the nation has since risen to become the No. 2 importer of Russian oil after China, helping fill the Kremlin’s coffers despite a Western ban on most Russian oil imports. In many cases, India has been refining Russian crude and re-exporting it to European nations that are subject to the ban, giving it a lucrative middleman role .

Matthew Miller, the State Department spokesman, told reporters on Tuesday that the U.S. has “been quite clear about our concerns” about India’s relationship with Russia, and has related them “privately, directly to the Indian government” — including within the past 24 hours. “We continue to urge India to support efforts to realize an enduring and just peace in Ukraine,” he said.

Mr. Modi said Tuesday that as a friend, he had always told Mr. Putin that peace was a prerequisite for future generations to have a bright future.

“That is why we believe that war is not a solution,” he said. “There can be no solution through war. Bombs, missiles and rifles cannot ensure peace. That is why we emphasize dialogue.”

India has a long history of friendly relations with Moscow. The Soviet Union and later Russia for decades supplied much of India’s arms and military equipment, though that reliance has decreased in recent years, in part because of pressure from the United States.

“This has been a time-tested relationship, and there is a consensus in India, regardless of political orientation, that the relationship with Russia is one to be preserved and not squandered,” said Rajan Menon, professor emeritus of political science at City College.

Mr. Putin has cast his invasion of Ukraine as an anti-imperial struggle against an encroaching West, and that message has resonated in parts of the developing world that once lived under Western colonialism. According to a Pew Research Center poll conducted this year, just 16 percent of respondents in India expressed unfavorable views of Russia, compared with 46 percent who voiced positive associations.

During his talks with Mr. Putin, Mr. Modi sought the early discharge of all I ndian nationals who were recruited by the Russian army under “false pretenses,” according to government officials. The contentious issue had introduced a sour note in the countries’ friendly relations. Mr. Putin agreed to the discharge of those citizens, who India has said number between 35 and 50.

Mr. Menon predicted that India would continue to cultivate deeper ties with the United States over the long term, but not at a cost of having to choose sides.

“Anyone who expects you can peel India off and put it in the U.S. column — that is not going to happen,” he said. “Would you rather be completely dependent on the United States or Russia, or have a position of maneuverability between the two?”

Michael Crowley contributed reporting.

Paul Sonne is an international correspondent, focusing on Russia and the varied impacts of President Vladimir V. Putin’s domestic and foreign policies, with a focus on the war against Ukraine. More about Paul Sonne

Anupreeta Das is the finance editor of The New York Times, overseeing broad coverage of Wall Street, including banking, investing, markets and consumer finance. She was previously the deputy business editor of The Wall Street Journal. More about Anupreeta Das

Our Coverage of the War in Ukraine

News and Analysis

After meeting with Donald Trump, Prime Minister Viktor Orban of Hungary wrote to a top E.U. official to say that Trump had told him he was planning a swift push for a peace deal  between Russia and Ukraine.

Ukraine’s Parliament is in a state of disarray , denting the government’s credibility as it struggles to reset its war effort after months of Russian advances.

Russian forces pushed into Urozhaine, a southern village won back by Ukraine last summer, the latest in a series of slow but steady advances  that are reversing hard-won Ukrainian victories.

The Rise of Slaughterbots: Driven by the war, many Ukrainian companies are working on a major leap forward in  the weaponization of consumer technology .

Motorcycles and Mayhem: In the latest tactic for storming trenches, Russians use motorcycles and dune buggies  to speed across open space, often into a hail of gunfire.

Escaping the Russian Army: Facing grim job prospects, a young Nepali signed up to join Russia’s military, which sent him to fight in Ukraine. His ordeal turned into a tale worthy of Hollywood .

How We Verify Our Reporting

Our team of visual journalists analyzes satellite images, photographs , videos and radio transmissions  to independently confirm troop movements and other details.

We monitor and authenticate reports on social media, corroborating these with eyewitness accounts and interviews. Read more about our reporting efforts .

10 Top Day Trips from New Orleans

Updated : July 10, 2024

AAA Travel Editor, WA

Table of contents.

•  Chalmette Battlefield & National Cemetery
•  Barataria Preserve
•  Honey Island Swamp
•  Fontainebleau State Park
•  Abita Mystery House/UCM Museum
•  The Whitney Plantation
•  Gulfport, Mississippi
•  Baton Rouge, Louisiana
•  Grand Isle, Louisiana
• Lafayette, Louisiana

Plan Your Trip to New Orleans With AAA

New Orleans is one of the most stylistically unique cultural gems of the United States, delighting its visitors with a treasury of attractions: from the French Quarter to Saint Louis Cemetery, from the Preservation Hall Jazz Band to the unrivaled revelry of Mardi Gras.

Yet the Big Easy also serves as a great starting point for other regional destinations, including primal swamps, white-sand beaches and other natural sanctuaries as well as historical sites, small-town jewels and culinary hotspots. In short, the area offers much more outside of what is typically expected. For inspiration and planning convenience, we’ve rounded up the 10 top day trips from New Orleans.

1. Chalmette Battlefield & National Cemetery

• Distance From New Orleans: About six miles

The Chalmette Battlefield in Chalmette, LA , part of the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park & Preserve (named after the legendary French pirate who operated along the Louisiana coast in the early 1800s), marks the site of the Battle of New Orleans on January 8, 1815. That was shortly after the Treaty of Ghent established the conditions for ending the War of 1812, but before it had been ratified. Outnumbered American forces under General Andrew Jackson soundly defeated the British Army, a victory that, for some time after, saw the eighth of January celebrated as a national holiday in the U.S.

Self-guided exhibits, ranger-led talks, living-history events and the Chalmette Monument are among the attractions at the battlefield. Immediately downriver lies the Chalmette National Cemetery, which inters more than 15,000 American veterans of the War of 1812, Civil War, Spanish-American War, both World Wars and the Vietnam War.

2. Barataria Preserve

• Distance From New Orleans: 17.5 miles

Another unit of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park & Preserve, the Barataria Preserve is a wetland wonderland showcasing the ecological splendor of the Barataria-Terrebonne National Estuary. The preserve protects close to 30,000 acres of bottomland hardwood forest, swamp, marshland and bayou, explorable via hiking trails and paddling routes.

Wildlife is abundant here: More than 200 species of birds have been recorded in the Barataria, striking critters such as green anoles and nine-banded armadillos are commonly observed and there’s a very healthy and readily seen population of those lords of the Louisiana swamps, American alligators.

3. Honey Island Swamp

• Distance From New Orleans: 36 miles

Alligators also abound within the marvelous Honey Island Swamp, an enchanting swath of riverine swamp and bottomland hardwood forest widely regarded as one of the most pristine forested wetlands in the country. Gators aren’t the only megafauna here: The swamp’s a precious refuge for the elusive Louisiana black bear, too.

The location offers multiple options for guided boat and paddling tours into this spectacular waterlogged wilderness, much of which lies within the bounds of the Pearl River Wildlife Management Area. Keep your eyes peeled for the swamp’s very own cryptid, the Honey Island Monster.

4. Fontainebleau State Park

• Distance From New Orleans : About 40 miles

Set on the north shore of Lake Ponchartrain and edged by Bayou Cane and Bayou Castine, the 2,800-acre Fontainebleau State Park is another of the top New Orleans day trips and outdoor escapes. It offers a well laid-out visitor center with exhibits, hiking paths, the multiuse Rails-to-Trails Tammany Trace, a fishing pier, picnic grounds and one of the Big Easy area’s go-to beaches. History buffs will be intrigued by the ruins of Bernard de Marigny de Mandeville’s 19th-century sugar mill. Extend your Fontainebleau State Park getaway by overnighting in the campground or one of the lakefront cabins.

5. Abita Mystery House/UCM Museum

• Distance From New Orleans: 43 miles

One of the great roadside attractions in America is the Abita Mystery House, known as the UCM (“You See ‘Em”) Museum. It houses a head-spinning, eclectic (and eccentric) collection of folk art, memorabilia and good old-fashioned oddities. Those include more than a few stuffed part-alligator hybrid beasties: Pay your respects to “Darrel the Dogigator” and “Bufford the Bassigator.”

Situated in Abita Springs near the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain, the mystery house’s entrance beckons through a vintage gas station and the property also includes a historic Creole cottage.

6. The Whitney Plantation

• Distance From New Orleans: 46 miles

Not all preserved Southern plantations do a good job addressing the awful legacy of slavery that’s inextricably linked to their history. Luckily that’s not the case at the Whitney Plantation , managed by the non-profit Whitney Institute as a plantation museum expressly dedicated to educating visitors about the history of that terrible institution.

Established in 1752 as an indigo plantation by German immigrant Ambroise Heidel, the Whitney Plantation also produced sugar and rice over its long commercial existence; its surviving historical structures include the 1790-built Big House, multiple slaves’ quarters and a French Creole-style barn. The visitor center includes such exhibits as The History of the Transatlantic Slave Trade and Slavery in Louisiana and you can explore the grounds and ponder the lives of the plantation’s enslaved African-Americans on a self-guided multilingual audio tour or a guided walk-through.

7. Gulfport, Mississippi

• Distance From New Orleans: 78 miles

The second-biggest city in Mississippi offers one of the most popular beach getaways from New Orleans, with some six miles of sandy Gulf Coast strand awaiting. Take the ferry out to Ship Island—part of the National Park Service-managed Gulf Islands National Seashore—for additional beachgoing opportunities.

Other Gulfport attractions include the Lynn Meadows Discovery Center (a children’s museum), the Mississippi Aquarium and the Fishbone Alley artists’ quarter, plus a whole slew of restaurants, breweries and stores.

8. Baton Rouge, Louisiana

• Distance From New Orleans: 82 miles

Louisiana’s capital city has plenty to attract daytrippers from New Orleans, including some grand historical architecture, such as the “Louisiana White House” of the Old Governor’s Mansion. It also offers such cultural attractions as the Shaw Center for the Arts, the Louisiana Art & Science Museum and the Rural Life Museum. On top of that, Baton Rouge serves as an educational center, home to Southern University (the biggest historically black college or university in the state) and Louisiana State University; consider putting an LSU Fighting Tigers football game on your bucket list.

9. Grand Isle, Louisiana

• Distance From New Orleans: 108 miles

The only inhabited barrier island in Louisiana, Grand Isle is something like a slice of paradise on NOLA’s doorstep (relatively speaking). Expansive beaches are a top draw here, but there’s also some famously first-rate birding opportunities, like the Migratory Bird Festival, celebrating Grand Isle avifauna.

10. Lafayette, Louisiana

• Distance From New Orleans: 136 miles

Another of the best day trips from New Orleans, unquestionably, is the vivacious hub of Louisiana’s Cajun Country, or Acadiana: Lafayette . An epicenter of Cajun/Creole cuisine, Zydeco music and other regional touchstones, Lafayette includes the exhibits and interpretive programs of the Acadian Cultural Center (another of the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park & Preserve), concerts by the Acadiana Symphony Orchestra and so much more.

Join the over a million people who are AAA members and start planning your trip to New Orleans today. Dream up the perfect trip and use your membership to get the best discounts on hotels , rental cars and entertainment tickets.

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The travel industry is waking up to pet parents’ $259 billion annual budget as hotels, restaurants, and tours cater to our four-legged friends

Pet ownership is on the rise, with 66% of U.S. households owning a pet in 2024 . As a result, pet parents are rightly demanding a better world for their animal companions in which they are welcomed everywhere—in their communities, their places of work, and increasingly, on their travels.  

Last year, pet travel was the subject of over 19 million Google searches in the U.S. alone , with 65% of pet parents saying they’re likely to travel with their pets in the next year . Traveling with our beloved pets can make trips more joy-filled, but it also comes with an extra layer of planning. From reading reviews to ensuring a hotel understands what it means to be pet-friendly, there’s a lot of research that needs to happen before hitting the “Book Now” button.

In fact, we know that many pet parents curb their travel aspirations because they’re concerned about the experience of bringing their pets along, but also don’t want to leave them behind. Many only take a vacation “once every few years” or less because of pets, while a third have actually altered travel plans because of difficulty traveling with them. I’ve experienced this myself when trying to see where I can take my dog Bella on a trip.  

Rather than seeing pet travel as a hindrance, we need to rally more hospitality businesses to embrace pet parents. As competition grows, pet-friendly experiences can help hotels, restaurants, and even tour operators distinguish themselves from the pack.

The business benefits of being pet-friendly

We know that pet parents love to spoil their animal companions with birthday cakes, toys, and food—and this shows no signs of slowing. The global pet care market is expected to grow from $259.37 billion in 2024 to $427.75 billion by 2032 . So, it comes as no surprise that they’d be willing to splash out on a hotel that goes the extra mile for their cat or dog with pet-friendly policies.

Many hotel chains across the globe have opened their doors to create a home away from home for travelers and their pets, with some hotels in the U.S. and Canada offering on-demand pet health, wellness, and behavioral support resources.  

This kind of hospitality can go a long way toward building loyalty, which increases the possibility that guests will book again and share their experiences online. Pet-friendly getaways can also be an excellent tactic to increase occupancy out of season when both city and rural destinations can become more welcoming for tranquil walks and fresh-air adventures.

As supply gradually catches up with demand, we can also expect to see an uptick in customized adventures for people to enjoy with their pets, including walking tours, training weekends, eco breaks, spa days, and more.

Meeting pet parents on digital channels

Today’s pet parents are operating in a digital world and using technology to access the information they need at the swipe of a screen. It’s the same group who read every review of where they can take their pets. By enhancing the tools they already use, we can help take the work out of planning and refocus their energy on enjoying the experience.

AI, for example, is already shaping a new era of quick, seamless, and personalized experiences through 24-7 chatbots that connect people to nearby vet clinics, shops to buy food, and more. By listening to pet parents, we’ve collaborated with travel operators to use AI to create personalized travel itineraries —a vital tool in building digital pet-friendly communities and reaching the “always connected” pet parent of today.

The travel and pet industries have a responsibility to innovate and collaborate to set a new standard for pet-friendly travel. When you share your life with a four-legged friend, it’s natural to want to take them away with you. And for restaurants and hotels, there is a clear business imperative in opening your doors to support and celebrate the future of pet-friendly travel.

We must band together to ensure a better world for pets, making traveling with them as fun, accessible, and inclusive as possible, while also helping pets and travelers create lifelong memories. After all, that’s what being a pet parent is all about.

More must-read commentary published by  Fortune :

• How  U.S.-China competition is benefiting the world —and reshaping the global economy
• Venture capital could be  NATO’s ultimate weapon . Here’s why
• Gen Z’s enthusiasm for all things touchable is  resurrecting the analog economy —and costing parents
• Fearless Fund counsel : The court ruling barring grants to Black women entrepreneurs should terrify CEOs

The opinions expressed in Fortune.com commentary pieces are solely the views of their authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and beliefs of  Fortune .

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I Took My Daughter to See the Eras Tour in Ireland—And Lived to Tell the Tale

The day I decided to have a baby on my own , I met a famous Irish movie star at a Sam Shepard play and asked if he wanted to be my anonymous sperm donor. When he apologized that he’d recently had a vasectomy (“I’m fixed, darlin’!”), I asked if he knew Colin Farrell.

Which is to say, I’ve always been obsessed with the Irish. Growing up in Massachusetts in a tight-knit Jewish family that never drank much or mingled, many of my friends were from wicked fun and wickedly funny Irish families, who socialized like it was a high art. I idolized them, and all their shenanigans.

My Irish fetish never faded. And why would it? Samuel Beckett. Sharon Horgan! Sweater weather. The Boston Celtics. Irish twins. Irish goodbyes. Irish coffee. Lucky Charms! Normal People . The Hot Priest! Stoicism. Chitchat. Guilt. Humor! Hell!

When I did indeed get pregnant with an anonymous sperm donor (not Irish, as I ultimately didn’t want to deal with the sunblock) my mother urged me not to name an innocent child “Siobhan Shelasky.” So instead, I leaned into mainstream Irish grandma-core, and named my baby Hazel.

Hazel is now nine years old. And a lot has happened . I met a great guy (a quarter Irish!) when she was a baby, and we’ve since had another child, a boy, named River. We all love each other very much—but possibly not quite as much as Hazel loves Taylor Swift .

So, with the news that The Eras Tour was coming to Dublin, coupled with my uncanny attachment to Ireland, we (well, I) decided to plan a family trip there. Hazel and I would go to the concert, and then the four of us would explore the country I’ve romanticized forever.

In case our travel plans went sideways, I waited until the airport to tell Hazel about the concert. To maximize the reveal, I pulled some strings to get us into the new, super-luxe Delta One lounge—the It girl of all airport lounges, according to the deities at Las Culturistas . We sat down at a bistro table that felt like we were in Balthazaar, and I handed Hazel a present of 30 friendship bracelets, code for: We are going to Taylor Swift! We screamed. We cried. Then instantly, a beaming tween ran over and asked Hazel if she wanted to swap bracelets, and if they could be friends. Then another Delta One Swiftie came over. And another! Each time, my heart swelled.

On to Dublin. I was told by my jet-set literary agent that the Shelbourne was the place to be, and she was right. The lobby, restaurants, and lounges were aflutter with bubbly, attractive people all day and night. (More than once, I thought to myself, “To be single and child-free and sitting at that bar….”)

Instead, though, I paced nervously while considering our journey to the Aviva Stadium, overwhelmed by the minutiae that go into attending a massive event in a foreign country. The heroic team at the Shelbourne, however, took special care of all its Swiftie guests, of which there were hordes. Dublin as a whole, that weekend, was a sea of young women shimmering in watermelon Glow Recipe and Forever 21 sequins. (I wore a more sensible look of a black tee with chunky rhinestones, mom jeans, and white Freda Salvador flats.)

The concert was, needless to say, heaven on a homemade scone. Hazel sang and danced for hours straight. I too sang and danced, while sporadically crying my eyes out every time I looked up at the steel blue sky, thinking about everyone I’ve ever loved, and anyone I’ve ever lost. (Ireland will do that to you—it’s heavy!) The friendship bracelets and free hugs came faster and more feverishly at the show. I’ve never seen such an extroverted, inclusive, open-hearted community as the Swifties. And I’ve been to BravoCon.

But the come-down, plus the jet lag, was rough—and by day three in Dublin, even Hazel was ready to leave the electromagnetic Swiftie scene to chill in the countryside. Our first stop was Dromoland Castle , in County Clare, a sprawling country pile set on 500 acres of wildflowers, lily ponds, golf courses, tennis courts, and helicopter landing strips. (Think Saltburn meets Logan Roy meets Champagne all day.) Once we got over the shock factor of staying in a proper castle and being treated like real-life royalty, we took a falconry lesson with a falconer named Clementine and a hawk named Aria. We relaxed in the drawing room over chicken goujons (for the kids) and frothy iced lattes (for us). We strolled through the woods, with little fairy abodes galore, making wishes for ourselves and each other and the world. My mother always says old money loves no money (which doesn’t really track), but nevertheless, it might explain why I felt the love at Dromoland.

From the castle, we drove inland toward Cashel Palace in County Tipperary, a grand manor owned by ultra-wealthy horse people who have exceptional taste in art, rugs, upholstery, sconces, settees, sea-salted chocolate, and staff. Think: your fabulous and rich Auntie’s country house, and then give her a couple more million, and an “ equine concierge ” who looks a little like Emily Blunt. The best part about the Cashel Palace, for me, was the location. We had the Rock of Cashel, a spiritual and historical wow , in our backyard, and a charming Irish town in the front, which meant I could easily pop out to escape my kids who were, at this point, in their “murder each other” era. With the whole intimate yet palatial, run-by-a-prestigious-family, dazzling nature of it all, the Cashel Palace reminded me of my favorite hotel in the world, the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni on Lake Como.

Which leads me to mention that Ireland is… not Lake Como. The July weather—chilly, rainy, with seldom sun—can be disheartening. Symptomatic of that, none of the sundresses that I packed worked, which sounds superficial but is shorthand for—vulnerability alert—I kind of looked like crap, a mild indignity on holiday. Luckily, baggy clothes are probably for the best. The food in most of Ireland, while hearty and honest, is what one might call gut-unfriendly. (Would a wee kale salad kill ya?) But if it sounds like I was turning on Ireland, I was not. Not exactly. I was just a bit worried that the absence of good hair days (on my end) and decent avocado toast (on their end), might make for a destination that was not particularly… sexy. Which is fine, as it was a family trip, but would I actually yearn to return?

As I wondered about that, we made our way south to a seaside hotel in Waterford that was the one wildcard reservation. I had a Hotels.com gift card that could cover something special, and so I rolled the dice and went with a random place I had never heard of or read about called The Cliff House in the fishing village of Ardmore. After an hour on the road, with little expectations, our eyes began to widen at the aquamarine water ahead. A flowery, beachy, superchill oasis—straight out of an indie film directed by Sofia Coppola—was up around the bend. And it slowly unfolded to be what I would call: Irish Malibu. Suddenly, not only was Ireland crazy stupid sexy, but it was finally in a healthy relationship with the sun.

The Cliff House was built so that every room faces the sea. The whole thing has a funky 1970s feel. I sort of anticipated a washed-up rockstar to surface from the bar, but instead, cheerful friends and families perched on a big cliffside terrace, drinking, smoking, gossiping—European summer style. For the first time all trip, I recited the three transcendent words: Aperol spritz, please? Back in our groovy room after swimming in the ocean, sunkissed and satisfied on every level, Hazel turned up Taylor’s apropos song, “Style”: And when we go crashing down, we come back every time… ’Cause we never go out of style, we never go out of style.

By now, I was beginning to feel a bit depressed as our very own Eras Tour of Ireland was drawing to a close. But we had a marvelous time. The country is as warm and welcoming as the band of Swifties. Our trip embodied The Tortured Poets Department and Folklore all at once. Best hotels. Deep thoughts. Crashing waves. I felt proud that I made the concert happen, just as I made my own motherhood happen. I always knew I’d give my daughter a happy life—I just had no idea the soundtrack would be this good.

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Dominican Republic or Jamaica

Digital Costco Shop Card with Every Package

Oahu: The Kahala Hotel & Resort Package

$260 Resort Credit

Costco Anywhere Visa® Card by Citi

Use Your Costco Anywhere Visa Card by Citi to

Earn 3% Cash Back on Eligible Travel Purchases

Travel Items on Costco.com

Member-only savings.

Valid 6/19/24 - 7/21/24

iPad & Tablets

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