Travel Guide to Buscalan Tattoo Village in Kalinga: Home to Apo Whang-Od

Travel Guide to Buscalan Tattoo Village in Kalinga: Home to Apo Whang-Od

Klara Iskra Añonuevo

  • Where is Buscalan Village? How to get there?

Public transportation from Manila

Guided tour package from manila, flight to baguio from cebu.

  • Where to Stay in Buscalan Village?
  • Why is Apo Whang-Od famous? How Old is Apo Whang-Od?

How Much is Apo Whang-Od Tattoo?

  • What to do in Buscalan Village?

Visit the rice terraces and small waterfalls

Try the buscalan coffee, check out the murals.

  • Eat the local food “etag”

Buy souvenirs

Nearby destinations to visit from buscalan village, sample itinerary for buscalan tattoo village, day 0: travel from manila, day 1: stopover for breakfast + arrival in buscalan, day 2: buscalan exploration + departure, travel tips for apo whang-od buscalan tattoo village.

Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan, Kalinga

Home to over 7,640 islands, the Philippines is popular for its beautiful white sand beaches. But beyond popular destinations like Boracay and Palawan , you can find scenic mountain destinations and a rich and diverse cultural heritage scattered across the archipelago. 

In recent years, a remote destination in the Philippines has gained worldwide popularity: Buscalan in the Province of Kalinga, located in North Luzon . Buscalan is a small mountain village that is home to Apo Whang-Od, the oldest traditional tattoo artist in the Philippines, having been born in 1917. 

Apo Whang-Od

If you are going on a trip to the village of Buscalan, this travel guide can help you with planning your vacation to the tattoo village of Apo Whang-Od. 

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Road going to Buscalan

The Tabuk route requires you to get a bus to Tabuk from Manila. As of this writing, Victory Liner has daily Royal Class Sleeper Bus trips from their Kamias station in Quezon City to Tabuk. The trip can take around 12 hours and leaves the station at night, so make sure to wear comfortable clothing for the trip. After reaching Tabuk in the morning, take a jeepney to Bugnay, and then from there, head to the jump-off point of Buscalan village via a habal-habal or motorcycle.

If you choose to go the Bontoc route, you need to go to the Coda Lines Bus terminal in Cubao, Quezon City. They have daily trips to Bontoc, all leaving at night. Similar to the Tabuk route, you will sleep on the bus, so make sure you wear clothing you can easily snooze in. After arriving in Bontoc, you can take a jeep that will bring you to the jump-off point of Buscalan, from where you’d need to walk to reach the village.

Buscalan from afar

If you are coming from Cebu in the Visayas, it might be better to book a flight to Baguio Airport versus the Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila , as this will already bring you closer to Buscalan, meaning the land travel is shorter.

After you arrive in Baguio, you can take a bus to Bontoc. D’ Rising Sun Transport System Inc. has several trips from Baguio to Bontoc daily, which all leave from the Slaughter Bus Terminal in Magsaysay Avenue. The trip will take around 6 hours. When you arrive in Bontoc, you need to get on a jeep en route the jump-off point of Buscalan. You’ll need to walk the rest of the way from here to get to Buscalan. 

Where to Stay in Buscalan Village? 

Buscalan village

As for food, you can bring your own food and cook it in the kitchen of your homestay. Since the journey to get to Buscalan is long, if you want to cook your own meals, it is recommended that you bring canned goods. There are also eateries in the village where you can buy home-cooked meals from.

Note that there is no WiFi in the village, and mobile signal reception, if there is any, is very weak. Instead of trying to go online, take this opportunity to interact with the friendly and hospitable locals.

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Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan

Apo Whang-Od, who is also known as Maria Oggay, is the 106-year-old mambabatok (traditional tattooist) of Buscalan Village. On February 17, 2024, she will turn 107 years old. Not only is Apo Whang-Od the oldest living mambabatok, but she is also the only female one of her generation, learning how to hand tap traditional tattoos onto skin as a 16-year-old under the mentoring of her father. She has since tattooed countless men and women from her own community, including warriors. Nowadays, she also tattoos visitors from outside the community, including foreigners.

Getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od

Unlike the tattoos you can get in tattoo parlors in the city, the traditional Kalinga tattoo uses a mixture of coal and water for the ink. This is then hand-tapped onto the skin using a pambatok, which is made out of a bamboo stick and a thorn from a pomelo tree. And yes, if you’re wondering, getting a tattoo from a pomelo thorn is more painful than one from a needle.

Apo Whang-Od tattoo ink and materials

Traditionally, Kalinga tattoos were given to the members of the community to mark a milestone in their lives. Men got tattoos to signify that they were warriors and served as a badge of honor after a successful headhunt, while women got them as a mark of beauty. 

Buscalan Kalinga traditional tattoo process

The art of Batok can only be passed down the mambabatok’s bloodline, and while Apo Whang-Od does not have children, she has taught her grandnieces Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan how to hand tap the traditional tattoos. This means that she is no longer the “last mambabatok,” as others have claimed. 

Apo Whang-Od’s grandniece, Grace

The price of the batok tattoo depends on the intricacy and the size of the design you want. If you just want to get Apo Whang-Od’s signature three-dot tattoo, this will only cost you PhP300. Small designs can cost as little as PhP300, while full sleeves can go up to PhP50,000. Also note that you would need to buy a pambatok, which costs PhP200.

Before you decide on a design, you will be taken to the tattoo area and will be shown the different options you have. Each design has its own meaning, and it’s important that you take these into consideration before you finalize your decision. 

Buscalan tattoo designs

What to do in Buscalan Village? 

Buscalan village

Most homestays offer Buscalan Coffee for free, but if yours doesn’t, it’s definitely worth it to try a cup at any of the eateries in the village. Compared to most other Philippine coffee , the taste of the coffee is quite strong, but this is tempered by the brown sugar that it is usually brewed with. Instead of being brewed the usual way, Buscalan Coffee is usually boiled in a cooking pan. You may also purchase coffee to take home with you.

Mural in Buscalan village

Eat the local food “etag”

When sampling local food in Buscalan, you can’t miss etag. Etag is a general term for the Cordilleran way of preserving pork. In Buscalan, they cure a slab of pork before smoking or air-drying it. Because of this, etag usually has a smoky and salty taste.

Souvenir shop in Buscalan village

North Luzon is home to many tourist destinations. If you are planning a longer stay in this region of the Philippines, you may want to consider booking Baguio-Sagada-Banaue tour packages so you can make the most of your vacation by exploring these other places. Here’s what you can expect from a North Luzon itinerary :

Road going to Baguio City

See our popular Baguio Tours and Activities

Sagada village

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Banaue Rice Terraces

07:00 PM - Departure from Manila

4:00 AM - Stopover for breakfast

9:30 AM - Trek to Buscalan Village

10:30 AM - Check-in at homestay

12:00 PM - Lunch at homestay or eatery

01:00 PM - Tattoo session at Buscalan / Explore the village

06:00 PM - Dinner at homestay or eatery

06:00 AM - Breakfast at homestay or eatery

08:00 AM - Tattoo session at Buscalan / Explore the village

10:30 AM - Departure from Buscalan

02:00 PM - Optional stop at Banaue Rice Terraces Viewdeck

10:00 PM - Estimated arrival time in Manila

View of Buscalan from afar with traditional tattoo tool

The best time to go to Buscalan is during the dry season, which usually lasts from December to May. This ensures not only your comfort but also your safety. The route to Buscalan includes winding roads that may be difficult to navigate when it is muddy or raining. The attractions of the village, including the rice terraces, the falls, and the murals, are mostly outdoors and are best explored when the weather is clear.

Plan the duration of your trip depending on your tattoo design. This is especially important because visitors are tattooed on a first-come, first-served basis, and because of Whang-Od’s recent rise in popularity, it’s hard to estimate when there will be a lot of people in a day’s queue. If you have decided to get a bigger tattoo, make sure you consider the time it will take to complete it. Some tattoos can take several days to a week to finish. Weekends are usually when most tourists hike up to the village, so travel during weekdays to avoid the big crowd. 

Portrait of tattooed old woman in Buscalan village

Pack light. To reach Buscalan village, you will have to hike for a while, so it’s best to bring only the essentials in a comfortable backpack. While there will be guides to assist you, they are not porters, so expect to bring your own bags to and from the village.

Bring enough cash. There are no ATMs in the area, and the locals only accept cash for their goods and services. Make sure you withdraw enough money in the city before heading to Buscalan. When in doubt, withdraw more than what you need, but make sure you secure your money along with the rest of your belongings.

Remember, there is no mobile signal in Buscalan. Make sure you let your friends and family know that you are going to the village and that they won’t be able to contact you while you are there. Ensure that you also download or have a printed copy of your tour vouchers or other important documents to avoid any hassle.

Plan your trip to Buscalan village for a stress-free time

Buscalan village in Kalinga

Even if you’re not looking to get inked yourself, Buscalan is one of the most beautiful small towns in the Philippines , and there are plenty of things to see and experience beyond Apo Whang-Od and getting a tattoo. Reaching it might not be a walk in the park like some other tourist destinations, but Buscalan is definitely worth the trip.

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Journey to the legendary whang-od in buscalan, kalinga: an ultimate guide.

  • In Climbing , Natural Beauty
  • February 13, 2024

Journey to the Legendary Whang-Od in Buscalan, Kalinga: An Ultimate Guide

Embarking on a journey to Buscalan, a secluded village in Kalinga, Philippines, is not just a travel experience; it’s a pilgrimage to the heart of ancient artistry. Whang-Od Oggay, the centenarian and the last mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist) of her generation, has put Buscalan on the global map. Travelers and tattoo enthusiasts from around the

Embarking on a journey to Buscalan, a secluded village in Kalinga, Philippines, is not just a travel experience; it’s a pilgrimage to the heart of ancient artistry. Whang-Od Oggay, the centenarian and the last mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist) of her generation, has put Buscalan on the global map. Travelers and tattoo enthusiasts from around the world flock to this remote village to receive a tattoo from her, a mark not just of beauty but of bravery, tradition, and history.

From Manila International Airport to Buscalan, Kalinga

The journey to Buscalan begins at Manila International Airport. From Manila, the most common route is to take a bus or a private vehicle to Bontoc, Mountain Province, which is about 10 to 12 hours. From Bontoc, another hour’s journey by jeepney or hired motorcycle will get you to the jumping-off point for Buscalan. The last leg of the journey involves a trek, which can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on your pace.

Traveling to Buscalan, Kalinga, involves a series of steps that take you deep into the heart of the Cordilleras. Here’s a bulletized guide to navigate your journey:

  • Start at Manila International Airport : Your journey begins in Manila, the capital city of the Philippines.
  • Take a bus from Manila to Baguio City. The trip usually takes about 6 hours.
  • Enjoy a meal break and explore Baguio, known for its cool climate and pine trees.
  • From Baguio, board a bus or a van going to Bontoc. This leg takes approximately 6 hours.
  • The route offers scenic views of the mountainous terrain.
  • In Bontoc, find a jeepney or hire a motorcycle (habal-habal) to take you to the turning point for Buscalan. This ride is about an hour.
  • This is your last chance for modern conveniences before the trek.
  • From the drop-off point, begin the trek to Buscalan. Depending on your pace, this can take between 15 minutes to an hour.
  • The path is well-trodden but can be steep in places, so good footwear is recommended.
  • Pack Light : Carry only essentials to make the trek easier.
  • Stay Hydrated : Bring water for the journey, especially for the trek.
  • Local Guides : Employing a local guide is not just helpful but also a way to contribute to the local economy.
  • Cash : Make sure to bring enough cash as there are no ATMs in Buscalan.
  • Respect Local Customs : Learn about and respect the local culture and traditions.

By following these steps and tips, you’ll be well-prepared for your journey to Buscalan, Kalinga, ready to experience the rich culture and breathtaking landscapes that await.

Along the way, especially if you’re traveling by bus or car, there are numerous places to indulge in local cuisine. Notable stops include Baguio City, known for its fresh strawberries and ube (purple yam) delicacies, and Bontoc, where you can enjoy hearty Igorot dishes like pinikpikan (a traditional chicken soup) and etag (smoked pork).

Tattoo Booking with Whang-Od

To ensure a session with Whang-Od, it’s crucial to plan your visit well in advance. Due to her age and the high demand, her availability can be limited. Contact local guides in Buscalan via social media or phone as they can provide the latest information and assist with bookings. Remember, patience and respect for the process are essential.

One of the local tour guides we have known was Remy:

Alternative Tattoo Artists

If Whang-Od is not available, fear not. Her grandnieces, Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan, are skilled mambabatok who have been trained under Whang-Od’s guidance. They continue the tradition with the same dedication and skill, ensuring the art form survives for future generations.

Nearby Tourist Spots

Kalinga is not just about tattoos. It’s a region rich in culture and natural beauty. Nearby attractions include the Chico River, perfect for whitewater rafting; the historic Banaue Rice Terraces; and the hot springs of Tinglayan. Each offers a unique glimpse into the natural and cultural heritage of the Cordilleras.

Preparing for Your Visit

Visiting Whang-Od and Buscalan requires preparation. Essential tips include:

  • Fitness Level : The trek to Buscalan is manageable for most, but being in good physical condition will make the journey more enjoyable.
  • Cultural Sensitivity : Understand and respect the local customs and traditions. Dress modestly and ask permission before taking photos.
  • Cash : There are no ATMs in Buscalan, so bring enough cash for your entire stay.
  • Accommodations : Homestays are the primary option in Buscalan, offering a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in local life.

Experiences with Whang-Od

Visitors often share stories of Whang-Od’s warm hospitality and her sharp sense of humor. Despite the language barrier, her welcoming nature makes every encounter memorable. Receiving a tattoo from her is described as a deeply moving experience, connecting the individual to centuries of tradition.

Whang-Od Clan History and Traditions

Whang-Od belongs to the Butbut tribe in Kalinga, where the art of batok (tattooing) has been passed down for generations. Traditionally, these tattoos were earned by warriors and headhunters for their acts of bravery. Today, Whang-Od uses the same traditional tools—a bamboo stick and a thorn from a pomelo tree—to create these tattoos. Each design is symbolic, representing elements of nature, tribal identity, and personal milestones.

The story of Whang-Od and the Kalinga tattooing tradition is a testament to the resilience of indigenous cultures. It’s a reminder of the beauty that comes from preserving and respecting ancient traditions.

Traveling to Buscalan to meet Whang-Od is more than just a quest for a tattoo; it’s an adventure into the heart of the Cordilleras, offering a rare glimpse into a way of life that has remained unchanged for centuries. It’s a journey that challenges, rewards, and transforms, leaving an indelible mark both on the skin and the soul.

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Buscalan Village Tinglayan Kalinga Travel Guide (Itinerary + Tips)

Buscalan village is a distant village situated in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. It is home to the Filipina national tattoo artist and living legend named Apo Whang-Od.

Before and after the pandemic both local and international tourists visit the Buscalan village in Kalinga province just to get inked by the last and oldest traditional hand-tap tattoo artist Apo Whang-Od. She is a part of the Kalinga Butbut tribe with rich culture in the lush Cordillera mountains and rice terraces. Apo Whang-Od was born on Feb. 17, 1917 and presently she is 107 years old.

In the past years, due to his old age Apo Whang-Od has successfully immortalized Kalinga Butbut tribe tattoo artistry and tradition by training twenty girls in the process of hand-tap tattooing. Today, these girls are considered the successor of Apo Whang-Od’s brilliant skills in traditional hand-tap tattooing. Moreover, because of Apo Whang-Od, it put Buscalan village and Kalinga province on the map in the past decade bringing numerous number of tourist every year. Despite the fact that Kalinga is one of the less-visited provinces in the Philippines, living legend Apo Whang-Od made it a tourist spot.

“Batok” is a Tagalog word that means hand-tapped tattoo. On the other hand, “mambabatok” is a Tagalog word which means person who practices the art of traditional hand-tap tattooing. Apo Whang-Od signature tattoo composed of three dots that represent herself and her blood-related successors. So if you want to have a traditional tattoo in your body then visiting Buscalan village should be on your top priority.

Buscalan village

Name: Buscalan Village Location: Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga Features: panoramic views of the Cordillera mountain range, rice terraces and rivers.

My trip to Buscalan Village

My friend named Missy invited me to join an organized trip going to Buscalan village. The event date is scheduled for January 15. Presently I have never been to the province of Kalinga so the following day I decided to join the trip hosted by Green Outdoor Tribe. I file a vacation leave in the office for two days and pack up my necessary things to bring prior to the event.

group picture

It was Monday evening around 9 pm when I arrived at our assembly place in Mcdonald’s Kia Theater Cubao, Quezon City. As we waited for the other group members to arrive, we ordered some food at Mcdo and have dinner. When everybody has already arrived at the assembly place, we go inside the private van and the van heads to our main destination which is Buscalan village.

Banaue Rice Terraces

Past 5:30 am when we arrived at Banaue, Ifugao. It was so cold there and we had a quick picture taking at the famous Banaue Rice Terraces. Past 6:45 am when we arrived at Bontoc, Mountain Province. For this reason, we have our breakfast at a small restaurant named Pines Kitchenette and Inn. Their food and quality service are so affordable at only 100 pesos. All I can say is wow, their breakfast food is super yummy and delicious. It makes me want to visit this restaurant again in the near future. After our breakfast, we roamed around Bontoc municipality and ordered some food for our lunch and dinner.

Afterward, our van left Bontoc and drive towards Buscalan village. The road going to Buscalan village is very scenic and unforgettable that I can’t close my eyes for a second because I want my brain to absorb and remember the stunning view of the Cordillera mountains, the greeny rice terraces and the pristine Chico River. On the other hand, the road trip is dangerous because of the high cliffside part and lots of twists and turns that make other members of the group vomit and become dizzy. The long road is definitely not for the faint-hearted.

group picture of tourist visiting Buscalan village

Nevertheless, we arrived at the Buscalan village jump-off point around 8 am. We got out of the van and we saw several foreigners from the United States. For this reason, I take pictures of them as a remembrance of how popular this place is among the foreigners and locals. Our group have a short walk and we started taking pictures of the beautiful village and the surrounding mountain.

At 8:30 am our group registered and secured our local guide. After that, we start the trek going to the village. The first part is we walk for a few meters on flat ground and then we descend a 500-meter pathway. Although the descent is not very steep the trail is slippery, so we need to be very cautious. After descending, the trail becomes flat and later becomes a continuous assault on the mountain slope. As a result, our group takes several stops along the trail. We drink our bottled water inside the bag and rest for seven minutes.

descending

Afterward, we continued the hike going to Buscalan village. As I go up I have a short talk with our local guide regarding the trail we walk on. According to the local guide, before the concrete stairs and path walk was made the hike to the village takes a minimum of two hours. So our group is lucky because the hiking experience is a little easier and safer compared to several years ago. In fact, we reached the village after only fifty minutes of hiking.

group picture at Buscalan village

We take a quick rest at the small house and after that, we go to our homestay which is located on the second floor. Then we leave our bags at the house and we explore the village. A few moments later, I realized that Buscalan village is more than just a tattoo enthusiasts’ destination, it’s an interesting tribal community with rich culture tucked in the lush Cordillera mountains and rice terraces. On the other hand, I noticed that there are no restaurants in the village, only a few local stores and souvenir shops selling Buscalan shirts, coffee, and bag tags.

mountain cliffside view

We continue to roam the village and we spotted Apo Whang-Od’s house. We snapped photos of the house and we saw a small lovely dog named Luna. After that our local guide directed us to Apo Whang-Od and I finally see the legendary tattoo artist who made Kalinga province a tourist destination. Even though she was old already, she looks strong and fair. Some of the group members have a tattoo session with him and some just take pictures of him. After the tattoo session is done, we have our group picture along with national artist Apo Whang-Od.

picture taking with Apo Whang-Od

At 12:20 pm, we returned to our rented homestay and we had our lunch. After our group lunch, we relax for a little time and prepared for our second tattoo session with the grandnieces and successors of legendary Apo Whang-Od. It was 1:45 pm when the second tattoo session started. I noticed that the needle is made of a pomelo thorn and there are a lot of traditional and meaningful designs to choose from. A small and simple design costs 300 pesos.

group picture while having lunch

While waiting for other to finish their tattoo session, we sip a freshly brewed Buscalan coffee which is so mouthwatering. Then Gina (one of the group member) told us this is her first time to get inked and he has low pain tolerance when it comes to the needle. Nevertheless there’s no turning back and she finished the tattoo session in forty-five minutes. Meanwhile other group members have a compass tattoo design in their body.

tattoo session in Buscalan village

According to the locals there, it was more than a decade ago when Apo Whang-Od had trained her bloodline successor named Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan to continue her people’s tattoo artistry and tradition. Apart from this, Apo Whang-Od also trained eighteen young girls to immortalize the Butbut tribe’s craft and tradition. Presently these girls are the emerging tattoo young artists of Buscalan village. We finish our tattoo session with the grandnieces of Apo Whang-Od at 4:20 pm. Finally we got inked in Buscalan village.

dinner at Buscalan village

Then we prepare and cooked our dinner. It was 6 pm when we have our dinner with unlimited rice and almost fully loaded dishes. After done eating, we have our socializing time. We drink some beer, gin and emperador and we share some thoughts about the tattoo session. One member said that she found this more painful than her dog tattoo. Moreover we talk about our current work and life inside the busy city of Metro Manila. We were laughing and joking while sharing different perspectives and thoughts. Past 10 pm when we go to our room and have a goodnight sleep.

our homestay in Buscalan village

We woke up around 5 am in the morning and we have our breakfast at 6:25 am. We drink the free brewed coffee of Buscalan and after that we roam the village. Our group take lots of pictures of the remote village and we even give donations to the locals there. We wash up around 9:15 am and we check out at 10:10 am. Our group bid farewell to the locals and we started to descend all the way back to the main road where our driver was waiting for us. After twenty-eight minutes of descending we finally reached the main road and the van left Buscalan village at 10:56 am.

Sagada Mountain Province

The van headed to our side trip destination and we arrived at Sagada, Mountain Province past 12:30 pm. We take our lunch there and we satisfy our meat cravings. Then we explored Sagada famous tourist spot like Blue Soil Hills, Sugong Hanging Coffins, Echo Valley and the Church of Saint Mary the Virgin. After exploring the beautiful town of Sagada, the driver of the van take us to Baguio City where we buy souvenirs and strawberry jam. Around 5:25 pm when our van left Baguio City and I saw one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life.

Three hours later we had our dinner at Leeza’s Restaurant in Sison, Pangasinan. It was 12:45 am when we arrived in Metro Manila. We bid goodbye to each other and I came home past 2 am. Thanks be to God for guiding us and keeping us safe all the way. It was an unfogerttable experience to meet and greet the living legend Apo Whang-Od. Also another bucket list was unlocked. I will truly miss the scenery, the cold weather and the brewed coffee of Buscalan village. All in all the long trip is all worth it.

Sample 2-Day itinerary to Buscalan Village (by private vehicle)

Day 0 8:30PM – Meetup at Mcdonald’s Kia Theater Cubao, Quezon City 9:30PM – ETD going to Buscalan village

Day 1 5:30AM – ETA Banaue Rice Terraces 6:30AM – ETA Bontoc, Mountain Province, breakfast and buy food 7AM – Departure going to Buscalan village 8AM – Arrival at Buscalan, register, secure guide and start trek 9AM – Buscalan Village, go to homestay and relax 10:30AM – Meet and greet Apo Whang-Od, picture taking and tattoo session 1PM – Lunch 2PM – Explore the village and another tattoo session 5:30PM – Dinner and socials 9PM – Lights off

Day 2 5AM – Wake up call, breakfast 6:15AM – See the sunrise, photo-ops 8AM – Tidy-up and pack up 9AM – Start descent 10AM – Back at the jump-off point 10:30AM – Departure going to the sidetrip (Sagada) 12PM – Lunch time 1PM – Open time, explore Sagada 5PM – Arrival at Baguio City, buy souvenirs 5:45PM – ETD to Manila

Disclaimer: the above itinerary may change depending on the situation like weather conditions and participants pacing.

Things to bring on your visit to Buscalan Village:

Water and tumbler Snacks First Aid Kit Pocket money Extra set of clothes Jacket Alcohol Hiking sandals Valid ID and vaccination card Camera and powerbank Personal medications Scarf, cap, umbrella Toiletries like bath soap, toothbrush and small towel Plastic bag for your trash Waterproofing for gadgets if rainy season Sunblock (optional)

How to Go to Buscalan Village

By commuting from Metro Manila

  • From Victory Liner bus station in Quezon City, ride a deluxe bus bound to Tabuk, Kalinga. The travel time is almost eleven hours.
  • Then from Tabuk city ride a jeep going to the municipality of Tinglayan and drop off at the junction near the Buscalan village jump-off point.
  • From Coda Lines Terminal in Cubao, Quezon City, ride a bus going to the municipality of Bontoc in Mountain Province. 
  • From Bontoc municipality, ride a jeep bound to Buscalan village jump-off point or tourism site. 

Note: The daily trip schedule of the Coda Line bus bound to Bontoc municipality is 9 pm.

By commuting from Bontoc, Mountain Province

  • From Bontoc, there’s a tricycle terminal near Cable Cafe & Restaurant in Poblacion, Bontoc. One of the tricycle drivers is Jayson. You can contact Jayson from this cellphone number 0930-307-6300. The tricycle fare range from 1500 to 2000 pesos and it’s good for a day tour roundtrip from Bontoc to Kalinga and vice versa. If overnight the tricycle fare range from 2500-3000 pesos. 
  • Then from Buscalan turning point trek for thirty minutes or more going to the house of Apo Whang Od.
  • Ride a jeepney from Bontoc going to Bugnay. The travel time is one hour and the jeepney fare is around 200 pesos. But please take note that you need to wait for a long time maybe one hour or more to make the jeepney full and started going to Bugnay. (but it all depends)
  • From Bugnay ride a motorcycle going to Buscalan. The motorcycle fare is 150 pesos.

By commuting from Baguio City

  • From Baguio City, ride a bus going to Bontoc, Mountain Province.
  • Then from Bontoc municipality ride a jeep or bus going to Tabuk, Kalinga and drop off at the village of Bugnay. The approximate travel time is one hour and thirty minutes.
  • From Bugnay village, ride a jeep or motorcycle going to the municipality of Tinglayan and alight at Buscalan Village jump-off point.

Reminders and Tips:

  • I highly advised you to join an organized trip for only 3500 pesos or less per head going to Buscalan village for a hassle-free trip and accommodation. The inclusion in the Buscalan organized tour for 2 days and 1 night is roundtrip private van transportation (Manila-Kalinga-Manila), homestay, two hosted meal (lunch and dinner), registration fee, tourism fee, local guide fee, toll fee, drivers fee, parking fee, unlimited brewed coffee, and bag tag. Meanwhile, the exclusion is all things not mentioned above like tattoo sessions, personal food and restroom fees.
  • At the jump-off point or the tourism office, you will be asked to fill out an individual registration form and have to show your vaccination card and a valid ID. Also, you are required to register your group and your time of arrival so you can get your local guide and appointment slot with Apo Whang-Od. Please take note that all tourists are required to get a local guide per group and your guide will be the one to book your slot with Apo Whang-Od. The tattooing schedule is on a first-come-first-served basis.
  • Make sure to pack light only and get yourself a porter for hire if you have so many things to bring up in Buscalan village. 
  • Standard health protocols should be properly observed at all times.
  • It is important to follow the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles at all times to make sure the place you’re visiting is clean and good.
  • Bring trekking sandals that are thick and have a strap. Personally, I prefer the Sandugo brand because it is durable.
  • Cellphone signal in Buscalan village is so weak and there is no Automated teller machine (ATM) so bring sufficient cash and pocket money before the trip. Also, take note that the nearest ATM machines can be found in Bontoc municipality.
  • For the Buscalan tattoo homestay kindly call or message Gaspar B. Laguinday (Gaspar Laguinday homestay). Mobile number is 09994805012 and 09067368404. 
  • The price for a homestay are ranging from 200 to 400 pesos per night and per head. Inclusive of unlimited rice and Kalinga brewed coffee.
  • Your host or tour organizer can cook food for an additional fee. However, if you’re on a tight budget better bring your own food and cook there.
  • There is no guarantee that you’ll meet Apo Whang-Od on your first day since your group turn will depend on your timestamp order or time of arrival at the tourism office in Buscalan village.
  • The price of each tattoo varies depending on the size, details, and design. The price ranges from 300 pesos up to 2000 pesos. The sun and moon design is 500 pesos and above depending on the size of the tattoo.
  • You can only get an Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo after getting a traditional tattoo from any of their artists. However, there are some days when Apo Whang-Od is down for some tattoo session.
  • Please remember that aside from Apo Whang-Od, Grace and Elyang her successors are allowed to ink the meaningful three-dot signature tattoo.
  • As of today, Buscalan village is open for all local and foreign visitors.
  • Last but not least, I highly advise you to visit Buscalan village on weekdays because it’s not crowded there. Our group went there on weekdays (Tuesday and Wednesday) so we had a greater opportunity to meet and greet Apo Whang-Od (the last traditional tattoo artist of Kalinga).

Notable fees in Buscalan Village:

  • The guide fee is 1000 pesos per day for a group of 5 people.
  • The registration fee is 75 pesos per person.
  • Photo session with Apo Whang-Od is 50 pesos per head.
  • Pambatok stick made of bamboo and citrus thorn is 100 pesos per piece.
  • The support stick is 20 pesos per piece.
  • The signature tattoo of Apo Whang-Od (three dots) is 100 pesos.
  • The dog tattoo is 300 pesos.
  • Ref magnet is 50 pesos each.

I took the one less traveled by and that has made all the difference. It was not the place nor the view that made it so special, it was the people we met along the way. Overall, I hope this Buscalan village travel guide has been helpful to you and inspired you to try visiting the village and meet Apo Whang-Od. Moreover, don’t forget to share this with your friends, groups and colleagues if ever you plan travelling to Buscalan village in Kalinga. God bless you in all your future travels. Thanks for reading.

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jervisergino

Hi. I’m Jervis, a nature lover. This blog is dedicated to helping people know more about the best hiking and tourist destinations in the Philippines.

Mt. Purgatory

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Buscalan Village: Budget Kalinga Travel Guide

A po Whang Od is famously known as the  last mambabatok of the Kalinga .  Batok is a form of traditional tattoo; given to warriors with unprecedented achievement during the early times. Travelers, not just from the Philippines, all over the world visit her just to have this traditional tattoo as a form of lifetime and meaningful souvenir, but visiting her place is quite challenging. We visited Apo Whang Od on a 2D1N trip and this is our comprehensive travel guide to Apo Whang Od’s place:  Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines.

This post is updated on November 16,   2020.

As of November 16, 2020: All tourism activities in the municipality of Tinglayan, Kalinga are still suspended until further notice. For now, feel free to read this blog post and save it for future reference. Stay safe everyone!

  • How to go? Manila to Buscalan
  • From Tabuk to Tinglayan (Top Load Kalinga Style)
  • Habal-Habal from Barangay Bugnay to Turning Point (List of Tour Guides)
  • Hike from Turning Point to Buscalan
  • Arrival at Buscalan
  • Receiving Kalinga Tattoo
  • Our Trip Expenses

Our Buscalan Itinerary

Apo Whang Od

Day 0: From Manila

How to go manila to buscalan.

Visiting Apo Whang Od is quite difficult and it took us a total of  17 grueling hours just to reach their village. There are  two routes to choose from:

  • Manila to Tabuk City, Kalinga to Tinglayan, Kalinga or;
  • Manila to Bontoc, Mountain Province to Tinglayan, Kalinga

We are going to show the directions for the first route (Manila to  Tabuk City, Kalinga  to  Tinglayan, Kalinga)  since this is the route that we used for this trip.

Deluxe Bus going to Tabuk City, Kalinga

Option 1: Victory Liner Bus to Tabuk City – (9 hours)

This is the first part of the trip: We took a bus from  Victory Liner in  Kamias, Quezon City going to  Tabuk City, Kalinga . The fare is ₱887 (as of November 15, 2020)  for  Deluxe Class and the bus leaves at 1900H (7:00 PM) every day. There are only two bus classes for this trip –  deluxe and first class .

Update as of November 15, 2020: There are now two (2) available Victory Liner Bus Stations in Manila going to Tabuk City in Kalinga. See the table below:

When we visited Buscalan, we took a Deluxe Bus from Kamias Station going to Tabuk City. Take note that there are now two available bus stations in Manila going to Tabuk City. You can take whichever bus station you prefer depending on your convenience and schedule. Just inform the bus conductor that you will alight in Bulanao near St. William’s Cathedral.

Make sure to  purchase your tickets in advance! We bought our tickets a few days before our trip. There are many passengers going to Tabuk City every day and it is better to purchase your tickets in advance.

Option 2: Bontoc to Buscalan

This is the second option going to Buscalan: take a bus ride from  Coda Bus Line in  Quezon City going to  Bontoc, Mountain Province . Here are Coda Bus Line’s updated bus schedule and fare:

To prevent the long queues of buying your tickets at the station, it is recommended to reserve your tickets online in their website. Here’s the link: http://codalines.philippinebus.com

Pros and Cons

Both options has their own pros and cons. Choosing Option 1 will give you shorter travel time, but the trip going to Tinglayan from Tabuk City takes at 4-5 hours.

Option 2,  on the other hand, has longer travel time at 11 hours but, the trip from Bontoc to Tinglayan is shorter at around 2-3 hours. Once you arrived at Bontoc, you can take a van, jeep or mini bus going to Tinglayan, Kalinga.

Bottom line, it all depends on your preferred schedule. We chose option 1 since the bus schedule of Victory Liner is more appropriate in our condition than in option 2.

Day 1: Arrival in Tabuk City, Kalinga

We arrived in  Tabuk City at 0400H (4:00 AM) and alighted in front of St. William’s Cathedral . The next step is to take either a jeep, van or minibus going to  Tinglayan, Kalinga . The problem is that,  the first trip will start at 0700H (7:00 AM).

We stayed in the nearest police station for the next three hours of the trip. The police station is located in front of  St. William’s Cathedral . Just ask permission to the police on duty before staying in their place. You can also stay in a sari-sari store in front of the cathedral where you can buy snacks or sip some brewed Kalinga coffee.

St. William's Cathedral in Tabuk City, Kalinga

There is also a  Mister Donut just beside  St. William’s Cathedral . This is where we had our breakfast at 0630H   enough to refuel ourselves for the upcoming trip ahead.

Tabuk City to Tinglayan, Kalinga – (4 hours)

There are  three options available going to  Tinglayan, Kalinga :

  • Take a Van – there are vans available located a few meters away from  St. William’s Cathedral and the  Police Station . These vans will go directly to the  turning point .  (The TURNING POINT is the starting place of hike going to  Buscalan Village ).  The fare costs at ₱150 .
  • Take a Minibus   – you can also stay in front of  St. William’s Cathedral and wait for a  minibus  bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province . The fare costs at  ₱130 . Just inform the driver that you will alight in  Barangay Bugnay in  Tinglayan .
  • Take a Top Load Jeep – if you want to be adventurous, then you can also ride a  top load jeep bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province . Just tell the driver or conductor that you will alight in  Barangay Bugnay  in  Tinglayan . The fare costs  ₱130 .

For this trip, we took a top load jeep for  4 hours from  Tabuk City to  Barangay Bugnay in  Tinglayan, Kalinga . Top loading is a common form of transportation here in the north and it is not suitable for the faint-of-heart.

WARNING:  The route from  Tabuk City to  Tinglayan is considered perilous because of its tortuous highways. Its road is absent of guard rails and there are ravines waiting for a vehicle to dive into. Just look into the photographs I took during our top load ride.

Top loading in Kalinga

The experience is both a mixture of fear and amazement. Without minding the danger, I just enjoyed the view of towering mountains, endless forests, and cool winds brushing off my body.

FRIENDLY REMINDERS FOR RIDING A TOP LOAD JEEP

  • Always stay hydrated! The top load ride from  Tabuk City to  Tinglayan is a total of  4 hours . Make sure to have adequate supply of water to keep yourself hydrated.
  • Protect yourself from the sun! This type of transportation is also a form of respect. The passengers staying inside the vehicle are designated for women and elders. To protect yourself from the scorching heat of the sun, I advised wearing sunscreen or clothes with long sleeves.
  • Stay alert! Always stay alert during the top load ride. Do not fall asleep or you might fall into the waiting cliffs of  Cordillera Mountain Range.
  • Bring snacks with you!  The 4-hour top load ride is a no joke, and bringing a snack will give you a quick fix for a rumbling tummy. However, there’s a stopover available in  Good Samaritan Restaurant  in  Tinglayan, Kalinga . A few kilometers away from  Good Samaritan Restaurant is the  Barangay Bugnay .

Good Samaritan Restaurant in Tinglayan, Kalinga

Take a Habal-Habal from Barangay Bugnay to Turning Point

We arrived in  Barangay Bugnay at  1100H (11:00 AM) . From there we met our guide  Bulut  (cousin of our contact guide, Oliver).  It is a must to have a contacted guide before heading for this trip. We contacted  sir Oliver a week prior for this escapade.

Oliver – 09397741477 (Our Recommended Tour Guide)

Please be patient when contacting sir Oliver or the other guides in Buscalan ,  because the signal reception in their area is incredibly weak and expect delays in text messages; rest assured that these people are very accommodating. Without them, our trip will not be possible. Here are the contact numbers of other tour guides in Buscalan.

The view of Barangay Bugnay, Tinglayan, Kalinga while riding a habal-habal.

From  Barangay Bugnay , we took a  habal-habal up to the turning point ; the fare costs  ₱100 . This is the advantage of taking a van I mentioned earlier in this post. These vans will take you directly to the  turning point.  Since we are feeling adventurous that morning, we opted for a top load jeep instead.

Hike from Turning Point to Buscalan Village (1 hour and 30 minutes)

This is the last part of the trip going to Buscalan Village. The total hike time from the turning point to the village is a total of 1 hour and 30 minutes; depending on your pace and fitness level.

Turning Point in Tinglayan, Kalinga

TAKE NOTE:  Every traveler needs to hike starting from the turning point because the path going to the village is inaccessible by any land vehicles. This hike is not designed for people with certain medical conditions and physical disabilities since the trail is  dangerous.

FACING THE BUSCALAN CLIFF

Part of the trail of this hike is the Buscalan Cliff . Yes! You need to climb down a cliff, and  it is the only way going to the village.  Always be careful while stepping down on this cliff.  There are no available guide ropes in the area to hold on . See the pictures of our hike down in the Buscalan Cliff.

Climbing down the Buscalan Cliff

The cliff is very steep and one wrong move you’ll fall into the ravine. Keep it slow, take your time and do not rush. Your guide will be there to help you in this hike.

UPDATE:  Based from recent travelers who went to Buscalan, there’s already a man-made rail in this area. Hiking to the village is now safer than before. (February 26, 2018)

TAKE NOTE:  Always keep yourself hydrated during the hike to prevent heat exhaustion. You can rest for a while during the hike to restore energy and prevent fatigue.

Hello Buscalan Village!

Finally, we reached the village! We arrived at  1230H (12:30 PM) and went to our accommodation at  Vista Resthouse . This lodge is the home of our tour guides, Sir Oliver and Sir Bulut . They converted a part of their home into a relaxing rest house for travelers. The accommodation fee is  ₱250 a night, per person.

Our accommodation in Buscalan Village, Kalinga

Our tiny bedroom is made up of wood and it can accommodate up to 2 persons. There’s a thin bed mattress on it with available pillows and blankets.

Quick breakfast in Vista Resthouse Buscalan Kalinga

Part of our accommodation is the  unlimited Kalinga coffee  and  free rice . For our meal, we just brought our canned goods adequate for our whole stay in Buscalan Village.

Kalinga Tattoo

This is the highlight of our trip and your guide will help you sign up for the tattooing session. Receiving a tattoo either from  Apo Whang Od  or  Grace  (Apo Whang Od’s grandniece) is both an honor and a humbling experience. This is your reward after that long travel going to this village.

Traditional Tattoo designs in Kalinga

You can choose a design presented in this piece of plywood, or let  Grace  or  Apo Whang Od choose a design for you.

TAKE NOTE: We recommend taking a bath first before having a tattoo. Our guide told us that you are not allowed to take a bath after the tattoo session to prevent the ink from being washed off.

Steps or Process of Batok in Buscalan Kalinga

The price of your newly inked tattoos depends on its size and complexity. It can range from  ₱100  to  ₱2,000 . My tattoo was a  standing eagle/hawk design which means a messenger and freedom; it costed  ₱500 .

With Apo Whang Od

TAKE NOTE:  Please do not haggle or ask for bargain.  Apo Whang Od will determine the price of your tattoo. The price provided is just right and it’s also a way of helping the community of  Buscalan .

OTHER ACTIVITIES IN BUSCALAN KALINGA

  • Socialization with the locals and other travelers
  • Picture taking of the amazing mountainous topography of Buscalan Village
  • Play basketball with the locals in the nearby court
  • Try farming with the locals
  • We also donated school supplies to the children of Buscalan. – I highly recommend this activity.

Day 2: Going Back to Manila

Tinglayan, kalinga to bontoc, mountain province (1 hour and 30 minutes).

We woke up around  0600H (6:00 AM)  the next day; had a quick breakfast, and packed our things. Before hiking back, we paid sir Bulut for the guide fee ( ₱1,000 good for 2-4 people). We started our hike back to the turning point at  0800H (8:00 AM) . From the  turning point , a minibus bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province  was waiting for us.

Mini Bus going to Bontoc Mountain Province

We took the minibus bound to  Bontoc, Mountain Province  and once again we rode on top load again.

Mini bus top load going to Bontoc

The route from  Tinglayan, Kalinga to  Bontoc, Mountain Province  offers a more beautiful view than the route we took the previous day. Though it’s more scenic, the path is also more dangerous than the first because some roads are positioned at the edge of a cliff.

Dangerous cliff going to Bontoc

The bus fare costs  ₱100 ,   and we arrived in  Bontoc, Mountain Province  at  1100H (11:00 AM)

From Bontoc, Mountain Province to Manila

We had our lunch in  Bontoc, Mountain Province in one of the available eateries in the area, and made our reservations for a bus bound to  Manila . We took the  Coda Bus Line at a fare of  ₱685 .

Crossing Samoki Bridge going to Cable Cafe and Restaurant in Bontoc, Mountain, Province.

TAKE NOTE:  Make sure to contact  Coda Bus Line for reservation first. Their contact number is  09159596377 . The bus will leave at 1600H (4:00 PM) and their station is located inside  Cable Cafe and Restaurant after crossing  Samoki Bridge . It’s just a few meters away from drop off point of the minibus so you could walk from it with ease.

UPDATE:  You can reserve your bus tickets online for convenience for Bontoc to Manila trip. Here’s the company link:  http://www.codalinesph.com/online-bus-ticket-booking/

Our Trip Expenses (excluding food)

Come and visit  Buscalan Village and experience an unforgettable adventure. Learn about the culture of  Butbut tribe and their way of life. Get a tattoo from  the last mambabatok of Kalinga –  Apo Whang Od ,   and bring a meaningful mark that you will carry for a lifetime.

If you find this travel guide helpful and relevant. Please share it to your friends! Always remember that sharing is caring 🙂

This post was originally published on May 15, 2017 and updated on November 15, 2020.

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82 comments . leave new.

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hi, may idea ka ba kung okay pumunta ng buscalan sa july? thanks.

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Hi Jay, Yes, pwedeng pwede naman. The only problem is the weather. Just keep an eye on the weather. The rainy season can mess up the road, making it unsafe for tourists.

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Hello po. Magtatanong lang po kung mas ok po ba na sumama sa mga groups or mas ok mag commute? Tsaka kung safe naman po ang daan sa pag trek ngayon. Mas ok po ba na konti lang ang bitbit basta madadala ung importanteng gamit? At anu po usual na magandang token or dala para sa mga native pp ng Buscalan? Thanks po in advance sa pag sagot. God bless 🙂

To be honest, it’s been 3 years since the last time I visited Buscalan Village. Pero, I know a group that is a good resource about traveling to Buscalan. Here’s the link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/164620733642453

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I ‘d mention that most of us visitors are endowed to exist in a fabulous place with very many wonderful individuals with very helpful things.

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Hi sir blaine ganda ng blog mo super detailed, i just want to ask if yung bus/van from turning point to bontoc is available to regularly or pag peak days lang? Thank you sir 😊😊😊💖💖

Hey PandaBear, sorry for the late reply. As of now, Buscalan Village is temporarily closed to the public due to the pandemic. But during our trip, the bus from turning point to Bontoc has a twice a day schedule. Not sure though if they updated the trip schedule. Stay safe always!

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Hi Sir Blaine,

tanong ko lang po kung may idea kayo, what if may dala sariling sasakyan? san kaya possible iwan sasakyan upon going to buscalan village? thanks!

Hello Mark, sorry for the late reply, I just moved in here in Houston, TX. Yes pwedeng magdala ng sariling sasakyan, pwede ring ipark yung private vehicles sa Turning Point.

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Hi Blaine. Just checking if you know a guide who can provide us a tour, itenerary package for 2 days and 1 night for Tinglayan Tour. We will be coming from Tabuk so no need to include fare from Manila going to Tabuk. Thank you and I look forward to your response.

Hello Emmanuel, sorry for the late reply. I just moved in here in Houston Texas. You can try checking the FB group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od”, it’s a great source of tour information.

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hi,blaine. salamat po sa blog mo,salamat dahil naka tulong po kayo sa amin.dahil gusto kong pumonta sa buskalan,para makita ang the last manbabatok.at higit sa lahat gusto kong mag tatto..blaine salamat tinuro mo ang DAAN nga gusto kong puntahan,salamat

Sobrang nakakataba naman ng puso ang iyong comment. Sobrang salamat po ^_^, nga pala sorry sa late reply, I just moved in here sa Houston Texas kaya sobrang busy po. Salamat po ulet.

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Hi Kuya Blaine,

We’re planning to go up and visit Apo Whang Od this coming August and because of your napaka informative na blog, di ko feel na mawawala kami 🤣 Napaka helpful kuya dahil detailed siya. 😂 Wala pa pero excited na kami tumawa este mag hike 🤣

Hi Liza, Thanks for your comment. Just FYI, it’s been a while since we updated this post. I recommend visiting the FB group “Tattooed by Whang Od.” It’s a great resource; many travelers use this group to ask questions and look for travel guides. Stay cool! https://www.facebook.com/groups/164620733642453

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I found your blog very helpful however just want ask if you have any idea if there are any parking space if will bring our own car? is it safe as well? how much will we pay per day?

Hello JV, I know you will kill me for my late reply hahaha. I just moved in here in Houston Texas kaya sobrang busy po. Anyway, there’s parking available in Turning Point. The parking is free that time but I’m not sure today.

hey blaine,

Your blog is very useful and informative. I’m planning to visit by April 2019.

Ask ko lng po once we conctacted Sir Oliver automatic na din po ba may reservation kay apo whang od? para atleast once we arrived in the morning by afternoon dretso na kay apo whang od sana. limited ang kasi ang bakasyon pag uwi.

Oh no! You have 2 comments pala for follow-up I’m so sorry. I think, I updated this post for 2019 and I included the other contact numbers of other guides. You can contact them for reference. Sorry po talaga sa late reply T-T

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after I read 4 other blogs, I think this one was really helpful and accurate and updated. Thankyou 😊

Wow super salamat Angelica ^_^

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Hey there Blaine! I am planning on going to the Philippines just to head to Buscalan. I am super nervous about it yet so excited. I don’t have internationally calling for the tour guides, is there any other way of getting in contact with them?

Long story short, where do I start for my trip? It will be me and one other person.

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Hello, would like to ask how long would the travel period be should we be travelling from Cubao bus terminal? Thank you and your blog is really helpful.

Hi Jeni! Thank you for visiting our blog. Are you talking about the Coda Bus Line in Cubao going to Bontoc? Travel time is 11 hours. For Victory Liner Bus from either Kamias or Sampaloc Manila to Tabuk City in Kalinga, travel time is 9 hours.

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Hi, Blaine!

Good thing I stumbled upon your blog. It’s really helpful. I’m going to Buscalan this coming weekend. You said that you guys donated some school supplies. How many children are there? Is it okay to just distribute it to them or do I need to talk to someone from the municipal. Also, is it okay to give them some chocolates & candies? Will appreciate your response! Good day!

Sorry for the late reply Gena, we’ve been updating this website for almost 2 weeks now. I think we donated to at least a hundred children in the village. We just asked Bulut, our guide, in helping us to dustribute the school supplies. We do not recommend giving chocolates or candies as it may affect the dental health of the kids. You may opt for healthy and nutritious snacks instead. 😊

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Hi Blaine! Nice blog btw, Very informative :). However, is there any chance I could catch a bus de route to the town from Pampanga? (since plane ticket bought is direct flight from Dvo-clark) Thank you. 🙂

Hello Gladys! Upon checking, there’s a Victory bus station in Dau, Mabalacat, Pampanga. That’s around 10 kilometers from the airport. I’m not sure if there are buses going to Kalinga from that terminal. You can check their website for further info.

Hello Blaine, I have to visit your blog again for some info that might help us (tour guide number etc. since your blog got the most updated info so far).. Hahah. Anyway, We will be coming to Buscalan nextweek with a friend but we decided to go there thru motorcycle ride ( roadtrip 😀 ) Do you happen to know if may pag iiwanan ng motor sa turning point before going to the village?. 🙂

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May i ask? Is it okay for a Solo backpacker to go in Buscalan?

How much will be the damages?

Hello Nadine, yes this trip is good for solo backpackers and the expenses will be higher than with a group. Just check our expenses on this post and calculate it. I think it will cost you around PHP 4,000.

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Hi po. Magkakaproblema po kaya if weekdays ako pumunta? Plano ko po kasi Monday ako pumunta. Okay lang po ba siya gawin mag-isa?

Hello Roger, there will be no problem if you’re going to visit on a Monday. In fact, we visited Buscalan on a Monday too. The tourists are few in which you will surely enjoy your stay. 🙂

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Good day. Ask ko lang po kung may byahe pa victory liner pa tabuk? Nagttry po kasi ako magbook walang choices to tabuk. Ty po

Yes there is, but Victory Liner do not have an online booking for Kamuning to Tabuk yet. You have to go the bus station in Kamuning for advance booking. 🙂

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Hi Blaine, Loved your blog. Tinglayan looks like an amazing remote site to visit. Would you know how many tourists/trekkers visit Tinglayan annually? I would love to get in touch with any tourism officer or tour guides there if you have their contacts. Thank you

Sorry for the late reply Joyce, I don’t know the estimated number of tourists in Tinglayan every year. You can contact the Kalinga Tourism Office for more details.

Office on Tourism Services Governor’s Office, Provincial Capitol, Bulanao, Tabuk Provincial Tourism Officer: Ms. Grace Kidang

Provincial Tourism Council Chairperson: Ms. Nancy Tuazon c/o Kalinga Provincial Capitol Tel # 0918-715-7402

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Hi Blaine, may pila ba kay Whang-od?

Yep! Merong pila. You have to register your name in the souvenir shop in Buscalan Village 😊

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Hi Blaine! This blog is indeed very helpful. I have one concern though, we are taking option 2 in going to Bontoc, that means if we continue all along our ETA in Buscalan will already be 6pm. Is it doable? If yes, would it be safe? If not, is sleeping in an inn near terminal a good option? Will be glad to hear your advise on this one. Muchisimas gracias.

Hi Bernadette! Thank you for passing by our blog. If you’re going to try the route going to Bontoc then Tinglayan Kalinga, then the ETA is estimated around lunch time too. Bontoc to Tinglayan Kalinga is shorter than Tabuk to Tinglayan route 😊

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Hello Blaine! Thanks so much for this wonderful and informative blog. Me and my cousins (8pax) are planning to visit and meet Apo Whang-Od this Sunday. We are planning to bring our private vehicle. San kaya pwede iwan yung vehicle? And active pa din ba number ni Sir Oliver?

Thank you for visiting our blog 😊 You can park your car/van at the jump off point. Yes, this is Oliver’s current number. Just be patient because the signal in their area is weak. You can also join the “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” group in FB and check out for any updates like safety since it’s the rainy season, you can ask if the roads going there are passable or not 😊 Have a safe trip this Sunday. 😁

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Hi Blaine, Thank you for your very useful information. 🙂

You’re welcome Arnel! Glad to know that you found useful information from our blog. 😊

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Hi sir blaine… i saw your blog and napaka useful. may ask lang po ako about sa tourguide and accomodation na pag stayyan po? and sir pwede ko din po makuha ung contact niyopo. salamat po.

Hello Angelo! Sorry late reply, Been busy these past few days. Our guide, Oliver, provided their place for our stay. The name is Vista Homestay and it’s only for PHP 250 a night last year. I’m not sure if the prices are still the same. Also, you can go to “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” FB group, you’ll find more info about homestays and guides in that group 😊

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hi Blaine, very helpful blog… would schedule sometime soon when I come home for vacation. btw, I would like to invite you to visit our province in Davao…Food and Accommodation on me. Revert if you are interested.

you may start reading about our place, see and let me know yea? LOCATION: MATI, Davao Oriental

Cheers! and keep up the great work.

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Hello. You’re blog is very useful and I’m using it as reference. I’m planning on going to Whang Od this August and will be departing from Manila on the eve of Aug. 18th. However I’m doubtful about the weather condition if it’s safe to go this August.

Hello Franz! Thank you so much for passing by on our blog. August is still under the rainy season here in the Philippines. Wherein the risk of landslides are high and most highways are impassable. I would recommend to reschedule your trip maybe on November where there’s less rain and typhoon.

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Hello Blaine,

Your blog is very helpful and informative. My husband and I are planning to go this December. We’re bringing our motorcycle and coming from Manila to Bontoc. A rider here at work recommended to leave Manila at night and we’ll arrive at Bontoc around afternoon. Are there any sights you can recommend in Bontoc? We were also told we need to leave our motorcycle at the town proper. You may not have an info about this but I would still ask if you know where we can entrust our mc? With your blog, we’re planning to stay 2 days at Buscalan and enjoy the scenery and peace. Then take a side trip to Sagada and Baguio before returning home.

Thank you for visiting our blog Annie. I haven’t explored Bontoc yet, but we have plans in visiting Mt. Kufafey and Mt. Fato soon (located in Bontoc, Mountain Province). With regards to your MC, I think you can leave it at the jump-off point in Tinglayan, Kalinga. You can contact a local guide there, like Oliver, and ask for assistance before your planned trip. If you have a Facebook account, you can join the group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” and ask questions about your trip. You’ll get insights and feedback from fellow travelers and locals of Buscalan. Have a safe trip ahead 😊

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Hi Blaine! Sobrang helpful nitong blog mo and thank you for that, by the way, I’m a college student and I am planning to visit the village a week or two from now for my thesis about “Batek” tattooes. I have no experiences and ideas about sa mga travel but I would love to try. Gusto ko lang tanong if ok lang ba to conduct interview kay Wang Od and if may bayad ba? Is it also ok to shoot documentaries dun sa village about the people? pumapayag ba yung people magpainterview and kung may bayad ba? Thank you! 🙂

Also to add if may electricity ba dun? Like pwede po bang magcharge ng kahit anong devices? Thank you!

Thank you for passing by on our blog Jay. Pwede namang mag-shoot ng documentaries around the area for educational purposes. With regards to the interview, I am not sure if you need to pay a certain amount to Apo. You can try contacting Oliver, our recommended tour guide, and inquire about your purpose of the trip. There’s also electricity in the area so you can charge your electronic devices.

Thank you for the response. I’m planning to travel next week July 19, do you think its safe now? And also what is the difference between the Deluxe and First Class Bus? May aircon yung isa ganun po? Thank you!

Hello! Both has Deluxe and First Class have AC. My only concern is the weather since it’s the rainy season. There might be risk of landslide in some areas so proceed with caution.

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Hi Blaine! Thanks for a really helpful blog! I just want to know at what point of the trip should I contact the guide (Oliver) ? And is there anyway to contact him in advance to the trip from overseas? (e.g facebook, email, etc) Thank you!

Hello Linh!

Thank you for visiting our blog! He has a Facebook account, but he seldom goes online. You have to text/call Oliver in advance (2 weeks before the trip is recommended) before going to Buscalan. Just a heads up, the network signal in the area is very weak. Text him multiple times, so he can receive your messages.

If you’re planning to go on July, I am concern with safety because of landslide risks in the mountainous highway of Kalinga. I prefer you join a travel and tours group for this. You can join the group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od” group on Facebook, and there are a lot of travel companies there offering package tours to Buscalan.

If you have further questions, just let me know and have a safe trip!

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Hi Blaine, thank you for sharing this very detailed experience ! 😉 I plan to fly to Manila end of August 2018 and go for this trip to see Whang Od. Will the weather be okay (I know it’s stormy/typhoon season in the summer) and could I still proceed with the trip? Thank you.

Good evening Audrey!

Thank you for visiting the blog, and I’m glad that you find it really helpful. Yes you are correct! The weather will be rainy by September based on the previous weather records of Kalinga by Accuweather. I am quite concern with safety of travel, since the road going to the village are perilous and risk of landslides are high during the rainy season. With the risks involved, I would not recommend visiting this place during the rainy season due to safety concerns.

If you have further questions, feel free to send an email. Thank you 🙂

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Sir Blain, why I can’t contact Mr. Oliver? was trying to call him but out of coverage area. Is there any way? any option. It’ s hard to go there without appointment. Planning to go there when the weather is good. Thanks alot

Hello Pamela, thank you for visiting the blog. The signal reception in Buscalan is extremely bad. You have to text Mr. Oliver frequently, because he might not receive these messages due to weak network coverage. Upon checking, the number posted in our website is still the updated contact number of Oliver. Just have patience, and he will reply to you soon.

Alternatively, if you have a Facebook account, you can join the group “Tattooed by Apo Whang Od”, you can post your inquiry there and ask for contact numbers of other tour guides in the village.

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Hi Blaine! Is there another minibus trip from Turning point to Bontoc aside from that 9:30 am trip? thanks for your reply!

Thank you for visiting the blog. The usual check out time in the village is at 8:00 AM. The hike back going to the turning point takes around 1-1 hour and a half, and usually the local guides will charter a mini-bus for travelers going to Bontoc.

If you’re planning to leave the village at a later time, you have to ride a habal-habal from the turning point going down the highway; and from there, you have to wait for a jeep or minibus going to Bontoc.

If you have any further questions, just let me know 🙂

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Hi.. Just an update.. I went there last monday and the man made rail has been removed… So it’s the same experienced as yours.. It’s really hard going to the village but it was all paid off after getting tattooed by apo whang od

Thank you for the information. We highly appreciated your update. I am surprised that the man-made rails are removed; the hike going to the village is once again difficult and challenging as before.

Yeah. Our tourist guide showed us the man made trail and it’s not passable at the moment. She said that they’re fixing it to be safer and easier for travellers.

Sounds great! Hope they can fix it immediately. Thank you for updating us AJ, we appreciate it. 👍🏼

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Good info sir. My wife and I are coming from California. I think we might need to stay 2-3 days to take good photos of the whole town. I don’t need a tatoo just there to take photos. Salamat.

Good day Jong,

Sorry for the late reply, I just came from a short trip in the Mountain Province. The tattoo is optional, it is up to you if you will have it or not. I agree with your plan of staying in the village for 2-3 days, you will surely enjoy the scenery of the village and its simplistic lifestyle. Don’t forget to bring your camera though, I know you will capture a lot of good photos of the place.

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Planning to go in Buscalan this July 2018, given the trekking needed is it fine or safe if we can bring a toddler 20 months old by then? Hope you’ll respond. Thank you!

Hello Erica!

Thank you for passing by in our blog. Base in my experience, I haven’t seen any travelers bringing their kids going to this place. The hike going to the village is physically challenging, and I think a 20-month old toddler will be stressed going to this place.

I have a reader who asked the same question last year; but in the end, they didn’t bring their children going to the village. They realized their decision was right when they saw the trail going to Buscalan.

The village is beautiful and picturesque, you’ll be amazed in their culture, tradition and way of life; but I think the long hours of travel going to Buscalan is not fit for kids.

Again, thank you for passing by in our blog Erica. Feel free to share this travel guide to your friends. 🙂

Have a safe and wonderful trip ahead!

Your blog is very helpful. I’m going to follow your guide. Is it safe to go to Apo whang Od on solo? I don’t have company in going there. Is your travel guide Oliver ok? Can he be trusted? Thank you.

Good morning Pam!

It’s possible to do a solo travel in Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga. I saw a number of travelers, especially foreigners, who went solo for this trip. But I do recommend for you to have a companion in going in this place for safety purposes. If you don’t have any company going there, it’s also fine. You will love the beauty of the place, and it’s isolated from the modern life we usually live in. Always remember that safety is our priority in every trip we have.

With regards to the guide, Oliver is one of the popular and recommended tour guides in the village. He’s been doing it for 2-3 years now, and he caters both locals and foreigners. If I’m going back to Buscalan, I will choose Oliver and his cousin Bulut as my guide.

Hope you have a wonderful trip!

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Hello…read and love your Buscalan adventure. Now me and my fiance want to try this adventure…question is…Is it possible to travel by car? Thank you

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Hello, I am planning to get a tatoo in sept-nov 2018 and i would like you to provide me with a travel agency contact number that organize such tours. Thank you

Hi Coralie, from which country you’re coming?

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Really enjoyed reading your blog about visiting Buscalan. What’s your recommendation in the event of wet weather? It looking like a dry ascent, but our return could get a bit wet. Should we continue with our plan, or reschedule to a dry time of year? Keep in mind, I’m traveling from half a world away.

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Hi Blaine! I really like your shots, can you please share any techniques sa shooting while on a moving car? Bago lang po ako sa photography and would like to learn paano po kau nkakuha ng malinaw na shots.

and nga po pala wala ko DSLR and olympus pen model po ang gamit ko na camera, possible pa rin po ba na makakuha ako clear shots?

Hey Kristine, thank you for visiting my blog. The ideal technique in capturing your subject while you are inside a moving vehicle is to increase the shutter speed of your camera to prevent any blurry photographs. You can google it for further info 🙂

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A travel & food blog

Apo Whang-Od tattoo

Getting A Tribal Tattoo from Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan, Kalinga

One of the best cultural experiences you can have in the Philippines is getting a tribal tattoo from Apo Whang-Od. Apo Whang-Od is an indigenous tribeswoman considered to be the last “mambabatok” (hand-tapped tattoo artist) of the Butbut Tribe in Buscalan Village, Kalinga.

This article includes my experience in getting a tattoo and a guide on how you can get here too.

My trip to Buscalan Village for a tribal tattoo

From quezon city, jump-off point to buscalan village, about the butbut tribe and tattooing, about getting a tribal tattoo, important tattoo care, 2 days itinerary to buscalan, other things to do in buscalan village, kalinga, budget and expenses, travel tips, what to read next:.

In the summer of 2015, I went to Kalinga for an outreach drive with friends. Visiting Kalinga was something I’d been looking forward for so long. There is something profound in immersing yourself in a culture that may eventually be lost in time. Our country has so much stories that are slowly fading a way, and to be inked by the oldest mambabatok in Kalinga is a way to preserve those stories.

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From Manila, we drove to the mountains in Kalinga Province, located north of the Philippines. About 14 hours later, we arrived in Tinglayan, the hometown of Apo Whang-Od. On our way, we had stopovers to see the popular rice terraces in the area.

Tinglayan rice terraces

We trekked across a cemented walkway and then had a stopover in a waterfall.

Finally, we arrived at Buscalan Village in Kalinga. We were greeted by the villagers and given coffee, which were as good as the brews in Batangas. One thing that I noticed in the village is that black pigs were freely roaming around. For someone like me who grew up in the city, this was an uncommon sight to see.

Native person in Kalinga

We settled our bags in the homestay prepared for us and then gathered at the tattoo site. Once Apo Whang-Od arrived, everyone in there was in awe. We wanted to capture the smiles and laughs she greeted us with.

The tattoo session began. Only one person was tattooed by Apo Whang-Od that day. It was a birthday person in our group who chose to have a centipede design. The centipede tattoo means protection and represents a spiritual guide, which is fitting for someone celebrating another year of life.

Tattoo artist Apo Whang-od

The next morning, some of my companions went to the outreach site, while I went to see Apo Whang-Od. There was already a long line of people waiting.

Apo Whang-Od’s niece, Grace, was the first to start tattooing the visitors. After a while, another niece named Eliang joined in. The organizer for the session formed a loop that included one person from each visotor group so that everyone would have the chance to be tattooed.

I was third in line to be tattooed by the legendary Apo Whang-Od. While waiting, I browsed through the book about Kalinga tattoos. Initially, I was interested in the tattoo for “kidlat” (thunder).Then I learned that this design was derived from “karayan” (river), which means influence or to influence. Eventually I decided to get the karayan design on my left arm.

Before my turn, Apo Whang-Od had lunch. It was already a half day of waiting. I didn’t mind although I did miss the outreach event, and when she was back, the session began.

Souvenir photos of visitors of Apo Whang-od

The hand tapping was painful. After a while, the skin began to numb and the pain lessened, but whenever the needle hit the bone, especially the nerve, I would jerk in pain. I took pictures while being tattooed, and Apo did not mind.

We were tattooed in a hut with pictures of a lot of visitors glued or taped on the wood just below the roof. The view was a bliss. We were surrounded by greenery, and the only noise were the giggles and laughter of the other visitors. It was quite an experience.

Apo Whang-Od tattoo design

After my tattoo was done, Apo Whang-Od spread coconut oil on the fresh wound. Coconut oil changes when it stays longer in the cold. I hugged Apo Whang-Od after the session and took a picture with her.

I was happy about my tattoo, although I’ve only learned a little about the history of the tribe on my visit. I haven’t had the chance to talk to Apo Whang-Od to ask about the history of the traditional tattooing in their tribe and other stories due to language barrier. Instead, what I learned I read from the tattoo book.

We packed our things and were thankful for the safe and wonderful experience.

Update : Hali had his tattoo done by Apo Whang-Od in 2015. He initially wanted to have the design go around his arm, but Apo Whang-Od got tired so it was only done at the front. The design healed well, but there were permanent small holes on the skin. Regardless, Hali is happy about his tattoo since he considers it an important cultural mark.

How to get to Buscalan, Kalinga

From Manila, it will take you around 12-14 hours to reach Buscalan Village in Kalinga Province.

Bus terminals can be found in Cubao and Quezon City.

  • From Cubao, ride a Coda Lines bus bound for Bontoc. Travel time is 10 hours, fare is P725 per person.
  • ( Option 1 ): From Bontoc, ride a jeepney to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village. Travel time is 2 hours, fare is P100 per person.
  • ( Option 2 ): Alternatively, you can also ride a bus bound for Tabuk and get off at Bugnay Village in Tinglayan. Travel time is 1.5 hour, fare is P70 per person. From there, ride a motorcycle to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village.
  • From Kamias in Quezon City, ride a Victory Liner bus bound for Tabuk and get off at St. Williams Cathedral in the city. Travel time is 10 hours, fare is P800 per person.
  • From Tabuk, ride a bus or jeepney bound for Bontoc and get off at Bugnay Village in Tinglayan. Travel time is 2 hours, fare is P200 per person. From there, ride a motorcycle to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village.

From the jump-off point, trek for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Here’s a little background about the ButBut Tribe in Buscalan Village in Kalinga and the history and culture of tattooing.

Apo Whang-Od

The ButBut Tribe is one of the 30+ ethnic groups in the region. They live in a simple community, raising farm animals and tending to the rice terraces. In fact, the Tinglayan Rice Terraces is one of the most scenic landscapes in the Cordillera Region. The tribe also makes their own Arabica coffee.

The tribal tattoos are part of the culture of the ButBut Tribe. It was previously given to tribal warriors for killing an enemy and women for decoration. The new indigenous laws indicate that the tattoo is a property of the whole community.

The tattooing method is called “ Batok .” It uses pomelo plant thorn as needle and powdered charcoal and water as ink. It is said to be more painful than modern tattoos done with a machine.

Apo Whang-Od is considered the last mambabatok (tattoo artist in the village). Traditionally, this skill is only passed down to lineage, but since she is childless, she has taught her nieces and other women in the village to do it as well.

Tribal tattooing in Buscalan Village, Kalinga

Here are the things you need to know if you plan on getting a tribal tattoo:

  • Both local and foreigner visitors are welcome to get a tattoo.
  • You’ll be given a book of tattoo designs with their meanings or associations, from which you can choose which one to get.
  • As of this writing (2022), Apo Whang-Od is over 100 years old so she no longer tattoos large designs. Instead, she only does her signature tattoo (the three dots). Moreover, having a tattoo with Apo Whang-Od is not always guaranteed — especially on weekends when there is usually a long line of tourists. Apo Whang-Od only speaks the local dialect (not Filipino or English), but her family can help translate between the two of you so you can communicate properly.

If it’s your first time to have a tattoo, make sure to read up on tattoo care . The tattoo is a “wound” that needs to be taken cared of, so it will heal properly and avoid infections.

Here are basic tattoo care you should know:

  • Avoid getting the tattoo dirty especially after the session.
  • Wash it with soap and water in the morning and at night.
  • Apply coconut oil or petroleum jelly to speed up the healing process.
  • Let the tattoo heal naturally. Do not scratch it even if it gets itchy.
  • If you start to see signs of infection, consult a doctor immediately.

Here’s a sample 2 days itinerary to Buscalan Village, Kalinga. This is ideal for weekend trips.

Generally, it’s recommended to spend at least 3 days here so you have more time for cultural immersion with locals.

Aside from getting a tribal tattoo, here are other things you can do in Buscalan Village.

  • See the surrounding rice terraces and waterfall.
  • Explore the wall paintings within the village.
  • Taste local dishes such as etag (cured pork) and locally brewed coffee.
  • Check out the souvenir items, including necklaces and ref magnets.
  • For those looking for side trips, Banaue and Sagada are close destinations.

Here are the current rates for your trip to Kalinga ( Updated as of 2022 ):

A few things to note:

  • Aside from the usual registration fees above, guide fee is also required. Guides are posted at the jump-off point and they are required to enter the village.
  • It is challenging to go to Buscalan Village alone, so it’s recommended to go on a joiner tour instead. The rate is around P3500 for an overnight tour.

And here are important things to know before you go.

  • What to bring : Bring enough cash. There are no ATMs in the village; the nearest ATM can be found in Bontoc. Also, bring a reusable travel bottle for the hike.
  • Where to stay : Currently, homestays are the only available accommodation in the village. An overnight booking includes unlimited rice and coffee. You may also bring your own food or buy canned goods at the store and have your host cook it for you for a small additional fee. If the homestays at Buscalan Village are fully booked, you can book an accommodation in Bontoc or Sagada Instead.
  • When to visit : It’s best to go here on weekdays to avoid the crowd. Reservation is not required, but it’s recommended especially if you decide to go on weekends or holidays.

Other reminders and tips:

  • Be respectful to the indigenous community.
  • There is no signal or wifi connection in the village. Be prepared to disconnect during your stay.
  • Feel free to take photos of the tattooing session, as well as the surrounding community (with locals’ persmission) and terraces. However, take note that use of drones is not allowed.
  • Occasionally, the tattoo artists in Buscalan Village join tattoo events in Metro Manila or other nearby locations. If you do not want the hassle of going to Kalinga, this might be an option for you.

For questions about visiting Buscalan Village in Kalinga, you may contact Kalinga Tourism in Facebook .

Has this guide to getting a tribal tattoo in Buscalan Village in Kalinga been helpful to you? If you have questions, let us know in the comments section below!

Here are similar posts:

  • Getting a Sak Yant Tattoo

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Hali Navarro is a backpacker and outdoor enthusiast. He is also a 2D/3D animator. He likes backpacking and adventure activities like hiking, swimming, and cliff jumping. He claims to have a personal army of ants.

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10 Comments

Thanks for the very detailed article – can you please let me know if there are any changes to how to get there and what I need to know before?

I intend to travel there next month

Hi! is it safe to travel now (Nov. 2021) ? Do they welcome tourist ? What is the fastest route to Buscalan from Cebu? Thanks in advance. Your blog is very informative by the way 🙂

Katherine Cortes

Hi Rose! Buscalan is now open to tourists. If I’m not mistaken, you need to be fully vaccinated. I don’t know about the fastest route from Cebu, since I live in Manila. 🙂

This looks nothing but AMAZING! I’ve always wanted to visit Kalinga but never got the chance… yet. I hope to go here sometime soon! 🙂

This is so interesting. I have read about others going to have Apo Whang give tattoos and I am in awe. This was the first time I saw the instruments that they used for the tattoo. I am not sure if I would be brave enough but since it seems like a great honor you would really want to have it done. What a beautiful trip you had!

Marge Gavan

He drank alcohol before the tattoo? That’s actually discouraged before the proceed because it tends to make the blood thin, therefore, it would be more bloody? So was his tattoo session bloody?

I got my Apo Whang-Od mark in 2014 and I remember feeling starstruck the first time I laid eyes on her. The batok was really painful but I endured it because I wanted Apo to do it even when they said Grace does it gently.

No, but other people did. I guess alcohol being a blood thinner isn’t that known. Anyway, yes he still bled. 🙂

Ang galing ng experience ninyo. 🙂 You saw some really scenic views and to ba tattooed the traditional way… gosh, looking at the photos already is enough for me to feel the pain, and yes, I also have a tattoo I got way back when I lived in Boracay. The pain… and yes, gin is recommended.

Thanks, Kuya Robert. Sayang wasn’t able to come with Hali, I was in a beach trip during this time. Want to get a tattoo as well, but Apo Whang-od only has limited designs, which she gets from a book, and I want a different design sana. 🙂

jendialouise

oh gosh.. it does really look painful. But seeing that kind of art is just so amazing. There are a lot of fascinating places and culture in our country that needs to be discovered. You’re so lucky enough to witness such beauty and talent of Apo Whang.

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whang od tour package 2022

BUSCALAN: 3-Day Itinerary, Budget + Travel Guide To Visit Apo Whang Od

Buscalan at a glance.

Apo Whang Od is probably one of the most revered Filipinas of our generation. She is a living national treasure being hailed as the oldest “ Mambabatok ” of the native tribe of Butbut in Buscalan Village, Kalinga. Mambabatok refers to the people who practice the art of traditional tattoo making called Batok which is popular among the tribal warriors of the Cordillera region. It uses the thorn of a pomelo plant as the needle and powdered charcoal mixed with water as the ink or paint. The process starts by stenciling the design with charcoal ink. Then using the thorn attached to a bamboo handle, the ink will be etched to the skin by hitting it gently with another bamboo/wood stick. The tattoo designs symbolize many things. For the Butbut tribe, they signify greatness, bravery, beauty, protection, or affluence. In the old times, these tattoos indicated a warrior’s worth in battle or a document of a traveler’s exploits or one’s political and religious affiliation.

Most of the Mambabatok were men and rarely women. During the 21st century, only a handful of these Mambabatok remains and one of them is Apo Whang Od who also became the face of this tradition. Words about her work spread like wildfire among the traveling community, attracting travelers even from outside the country. It was doubled when social media came into play. It put Kalinga into the map in an instant, bringing in a staggering number of visitors to Buscalan Village day after day. For a traveler such as I who love to discover and experience culture, going to Buscalan Village and meeting Apo Whang Od is an ultimate goal. Getting a tattoo is a treat. What’s even better is getting to know the lovely tribe of Butbut and to witness their lifestyle and how they evolve throughout the times.

My Buscalan Travel Story

Going to Buscalan Village is easier now than in the previous years although the journey still takes a painstaking 15-18 hours from Manila. The popular route is via Tabuk but I chose the route I’m more familiar with which is via Bontoc. I made my way to Banaue first via Coda Lines. I haven’t really seen much of Banaue during my first visit to Ifugao because I opted for the magnificence of Batad so I thought of giving it at least a few hours instead of riding the bus all the way to Bontoc. I headed to one of the town’s viewing areas via a tricycle and was blessed to witness a golden sunrise over the vast terraces of rice paddies. The warmth of the sun felt so good against my skin as it chased the chill of the morning breeze away.

After kick-starting my tour perfectly with a view of the famed Banaue Rice Terraces and a cup of coffee in my hand, I headed to see Bontoc. It was 8 AM when I left in a van along with the other passengers. I would have loved to doze off a bit but the view along the way was just otherworldly. The Cordillera mountains have always been a magnificent sight. It looked formidable and filled with the unknown but something in me wants to fully comprehend its mystery. Almost two hours into the journey and the marvelous terraces of Bay-yo came into view. Soon after, we reached Bontoc.

There were buses ready to depart for Tabuk that will pass by the diversion road going to Buscalan but I settled for the jeepney that will take me directly to the village instead. It was to depart at 2:30 PM. A little bit late but I didn’t have any worries since I will be with the company of Buscalan villagers. I took the time I had to explore Bontoc from the town’s museum to the nearby viewing areas. I also had a sumptuous lunch and coffee at Cable Cafe and Restaurant. When it was about time to go, I simply walked my way back to the jeepney terminal.

I sat among the eager villagers inside the jeep and looked at them with delight as we waited to depart. I have always admired the features of the Cordillera people. Chinky eyes, high-bridged nose, red cheeks over perfectly tanned skin, and shiny jet black hair. What could have been more beautiful? It was also amusing to see they were not so far behind with technology. Some of the young ones even have smartphones with them but I wondered what they used it for since their village has a weak coverage even for simple texts and calls which is why it was hard for me to get a hold of a local guide or a host for my visit. I just set the thought aside and continued to observe.

We finally got moving towards Buscalan at 2:45 PM. I fell asleep during the first 30 minutes of the ride out of exhaustion. I woke up to the sun shining brightly at my face. Adjusting to the light, my eyes caught a glimpse of a scenic view of the valleys below. The most captivating was the village of Sadanga. It looked so surreal, like an Elven paradise covered in trees surrounded by vast plains of greens. While I was in the midst of my reverie, a woman approached me. She asked whether I already have a guide and a homestay. I told her I didn’t and she gladly offered her home and services which I didn’t hesitate to accept. Suddenly, I was in the middle of a conversation, the villagers slowly warmed up to me.

We stopped by a market to allow the villagers to do last-minute shopping. The ride then went on until we reached another village near the diversion road to Buscalan. We waited for about 15 minutes before continuing the journey. Going to Buscalan was an uphill ride along a narrow concrete road. It has lots of blind curves and dangerous turns but the jeep didn’t seem to have any difficulty navigating through. We reached the jump-off to Buscalan Village at 5 PM. The tourism office was already closed but local guides still awaited for visitors to arrive. My host said she will go ahead to prepare dinner for me and left me in the care of her friend.

From the jump-off point, going to the village requires a 1-hr trek. Trekking would start off with a descent that will stretch to about 500 meters. The descent is not very steep and barely straightforward. It will be a little difficult and slippery during rains but it should be manageable even for newbies. We quickly covered the descent and reached the base just after 10 minutes. We then passed by a bridge and traced the path leading to where the ascent to the village would start. I heard a gushing of the waterfall nearby. It was so soothing. Slowly, we ascended the concrete stairs with my guide leading the way.

The ascent was arduous for me that I lost my balance for a moment and was gasping for air 10 minutes into it. I was carrying my 30L backpack. My throat was dry and I was dead thirsty but my water bottle was empty. My guide quickly refilled it with spring water. I kind of hesitated because I have a sensitive stomach. I worried about upsetting my tummy but I was more concerned about me passing out so I took a sip just enough to quench my thirst. When I recovered, we continued the trek up the concrete stairs until we reached the village. We stopped by at the registration point to rest a bit. There, I also filled out my info on a form and paid the fees. We continued the trek to my homestay after and reached it just before sunset.

The night was perfectly quiet. I had a cool, refreshing bath then a filling dinner before heading to bed. I only paid P300/night for my homestay which also includes unlimited coffee and rice. Quite a bargain, huh. I had a clean and spacious room. My foam bed was on the floor but it had clean sheets, three pillows, and a warm comforter. I stayed out on the terrace for a bit to gaze at the starlit skies. I had a whole tumbler of freshly brewed Kalinga coffee made for me by my host. In just a few hours of my stay, I fell deeply in love with Buscalan that it wasn’t really hard to decide to stay for one more night. I didn’t wanna leave in a hurry and as much as I can, I wanted to make the most out of my time in the village.

The following day, I had boiled eggs, corned beef, and rice for breakfast. They went perfectly without saying with my Kalinga coffee. At exactly 9 PM, my guide picked me up and we went to see Apo Whang Od. We arrived at her empty house which was made of concrete with a design typical to most Filipinos. I always thought they still live in their native huts (baluy) but sadly, just like in Batad, they no longer do. More than adapting to the demands of the modern world, sustainability was the major consideration since cogon grass and the other materials used to build the native huts have been scarce in the recent years. Although, it made me glad to see that most of the houses in the village retained the old design.

It felt nerve-wracking just to sit and wait for Apo Whang Od to show up. I didn’t know where the nerve was coming from. Could it be from finally meeting the living legend or from getting a batok tattoo for the first time. I couldn’t seem to put my hands on it but all I knew was when she finally showed up, I was awestruck. Her demeanor reminded me somehow of my old and unmarried female dean in college. Cold and somehow grumpy. She didn’t seem so amused of the handful of people waiting for her. We observed her in silence as she prepared her stuff. She didn’t say a word and that scared me even more. When she finally gestured that she was ready to start tattooing, my heart jumped to my throat and I almost didn’t budge from where I stood.

I was the first to get tattooed by Apo Whang Od that day. I first handed her my gift, a loaf of bread that she accepted gracefully. She then went to ask where I wanna put the tattoo. I handed her my right arm and pointed at my forearm just an inch away from my wrist. She quickly did a stencil of her signature, a 3-dot tattoo. She doesn’t work on complicated designs anymore and has left the task to the young women of the village. She quickly started working on my tattoo. I noticed a quick shift in the atmosphere. Apo Whang Od suddenly became cheerful. She spoke with enthusiasm with the other villagers around and was even laughing heartily. I didn’t understand what they were saying but seeing how she was just happy made me relax a bit. She finished working on my tattoo in an instant and we posed for a photo together. I stayed a bit to admire her some more. When the crowd became overwhelming, I left and went back to my homestay.

An hour after I got a tattoo from Apo Whang Od, I had another tattoo from a young girl who was my host’s daughter. I chose the fern to put on my forearm just beside the first batok tattoo I got earlier. The process with this other tattoo didn’t go smoothly. It took longer than expected and I bled so much that I was too sore after. I slept for the rest of the day and only went to explore the village an hour before sunset. After a quick shower and a delicious dinner, I spent several hours staring at the skies filled with a million stars. The wind was cold and the night was quiet. The silence in the mountains has always been the reason I’m so drawn to places like Batad and Sagada . My only hope is for these places not to lose their culture and tradition in this ever changing world. I sighed while I took a sip on my cup of coffee. I was to leave another magical place come the light of the morning but a promise of seeing it another time is yet again sealed in my heart.

How To Go To Buscalan

From Manila – In Cubao, ride a Coda Lines bus going to Bontoc (10Hrs ; P725/way). From Bontoc, ride a jeepney going to Buscalan Village jump-off (2Hrs ; P100). Alternatively from Bontoc, you can ride a jeep or a bus bound for Tabuk and alight in Bugnay Village in Tinglayan (1.5Hrs ; P70). From there, you will need to ride a motorcycle to Buscalan Village jump-off. Once you’re at the jump-off, you will need to hike for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Another option from Manila is to ride a Victory Liner bus in Kamias going to Tabuk (10Hrs ; P800/way). Alight in St. Williams Cathedral in Tabuk City. From there, ride a jeep or a bus going to Bontoc and alight in Brgy. Bugnay in Tinglayan (2Hrs ; P200). You will need to ride a motorcycle (habal-habal) to reach Buscalan Village jump-off.

From Baguio – Ride a bus from Dangwa Terminal going to Bontoc (8Hrs ; P250). Trips start at 2 AM. From Bontoc, ride a jeepney going to Buscalan Village jump-off (2Hrs ; P100). Alternatively from Bontoc, you can ride a jeep or a bus bound for Tabuk and alight in Bugnay Village in Tinglayan (1.5Hrs ; P70). From there, you will need to ride a motorcycle to Buscalan Village jump-off. Once you’re at the jump-off, you will need to hike for 30 minutes to 1 hour to reach the village.

Buscalan Travel Tips

  • If your way is via Bontoc, note that the jeep which goes directly to Buscalan Village only has one trip daily and it departs at 2 PM. The terminal is just beside the Mountain Province State Polytechnic College. The same jeep will take you back to Bontoc from Buscalan and it departs once daily at 9 AM.
  • If you missed the jeep to Buscalan Village or if you are in a hurry then you can simply ride the jeep or bus from Bontoc going to Tabuk and alight in Bugnay near the diversion road to Buscalan Village. Trips are available at a 30-minute to an hour interval from 7 AM to 4 PM daily.
  • Expect a scenic ride full of twists and turns. You will be traveling along the Cordillera mountains. The roads are kind of dangerous so as an additional precaution, jeeps and buses only run at moderate and controlled speeds.
  • Guides are required in order to enter and explore Buscalan Village. They are also necessary for getting an appointment with Apo Whang Od. Reservation is not necessary but might be an advantage if you will go there during weekends and peak seasons. Guides await for visitors at the jump-off. Guide fee is P1000/day/5People.
  • There are no hotels/inns in Buscalan Village but the villagers offer their home for P300/head/night which is inclusive of bed, bath, and unlimited rice and coffee.
  • The villagers can understand and speak English but not fluently. Tagalog is also widely spoken.
  • Cellular network coverage is weak to zero in Buscalan Village. Globe has better coverage than other networks and can still send texts and make calls using a basic phone.
  • Your host can also cook food for you for an additional fee. If you are on a budget, you can bring with you canned goods or buy them from some stores in the village.
  • Avoid going to Buscalan Village during weekends as it is packed with tourists and you might find it difficult to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od.
  • Bring enough cash. There is no ATM in the village. The nearest ATMs are in Bontoc and Tabuk City.
  • 3 days and 2 nights is recommended to fully experience Buscalan Village but if you’re in a hurry and is only after the tattoo or seeing Apo Whang Od then 2 days and 1 night should do it for you.

Buscalan Batok Tattoo Designs, Meaning & Prices

Reminder: Please note that the prices here are not standard and can change from one Mambabatok to another.

Budget, Itinerary & Other Essentials

There you have it lovelies.

I hope you enjoyed my trip to Buscalan and found it useful. For questions and suggestions, feel free to leave them on the comments. Don’t forget to share!!! Until next time. Ciao!

My Kalinga/Batok Tattoo Turned Out To Be The Absolute Worst

Hong kong: travel guide for filipino first-timers (budget + itinerary), related posts, tibiao kawa hot bath: diy travel guide on a budget to the original kawa hot bath in antique, malalison island: diy travel guide, budget + itinerary for when you need a time on the road less taken, antique: 3d2n budget travel guide + itinerary & useful tips, 46 comments.

Thank you!! Ive been looking for directions from Tabuk! Thank you for the wonderful information!

Hi Kim. No worries! Have fun on your trip.

How many days would I need to stay if I just wanted to get the three dots from Apo Wang Od? If I were to Leave Manila on a Friday? Arriving Buscalan Friday night?

If you’re only after the tattoo, you can leave on Saturday after getting tattoed by Apo Whang Od.

Where do I book for travel guide?

I can refer you to a travel organizer. Here are his schedules:

August 12-13/sat-sun August 19-20/sat-sun August 26-27/sat-sun

₱3500/head all in na po yan.

Is end of August a good time to go? I am looking into going Aug 30- Sep 1.

Love reading your journey! And for the research it’s wonderful!

One question: how did you book your homestay? Did you book in advance or upon arrival?

Hopefully you can read this comment before me and my boyfriend go😊

Hi Alyssa! Thanks. I got our homestay upon arrival.

How are the twist and turns Keza? I heard some experienced nausea because of it. How was it for you? Are the twist and turns only specific to Bontoc going to Buscalan?

Hi Mae. It wasn’t that bad for me. Probably because our driver drove the jeep at moderate speed so the sudden turn was barely felt. There were lots of twist and turns from Banaue to Bontoc then to Buscalan. If you’re the type to get sick during trips, I suggest taking the appropriate medication beforehand. Enjoy and stay safe.

When did you go to Apo? I was able to visit last 2016. There might be changes since we had a pandemic. Anyway, it is so refreshing to read your article and memories from my past travel there became vivid. Thanks for sharing!

Hi Lou. I traveled December before the pandemic. Agree. There are probably changes but dunno what those are. Glad I helped you reminisce your trip there.

Hi,planning to go on a solo trip to buscalan to get my very first tattoo. I wanted it done by Apo Whang Od. Hope to go there real soon.

Good luck on your trip then!

Hi, Keza! I was planning on going there and my senior (cool) mom wants to tag along! Haha However, I am not familiar how difficult the trek going to the village is. My mom is not an active individual (in terms of exercise and the likes) but she likes doing stuffs all the time so I am worried that the trek might be too much for her…

Hi Maye. The trek is reall not that difficult since the trail is already established and most of it is a concrete path/ladder. It’s steep though but I think your mom can manage given enough breathers in between and if she has less baggage.

Hello may I ask how much is your budget from Manila going to Whang-ods village including the guide fee ?

Budget depends on your itinerary and mode of transport. If you would follow mine, I have a breakdown of the cost on the blog.

I wandering how to get a guide or host yo stay. Do you need to book ing advance?

Hello Judy. I didn’t book in advance. I got the guide and my host upon arriving in Buscalan.

Im going to Baguio tomorrow for a day and on the next day off to Buscalan Apo Wang Od. Never been to Baguio North Area. But I’m happy if any interested joiner.

Me too. We could exchange numbers

Hi Jonathan, sorry I lost connection. I’m here at Bontoc at the moment plan to go Buscalan tomorrow morning.

Hi Keza, thanks! Very informative to and helpful. I’m planning to go there next month hopefully ma follow ko yung nasa itinerary mo.

Have fun po and keep safe.

Thanks for this very informative blog, I’m also planning to go there next month and thankfully I read this, I now have an idea or maybe I’ll just follow your itinerary. Thanks Keza!

Thank you po for sharing ung experience niyo po! nagadvance book po ba kayo ng ticket mula bontoc pauwi ng maynila?

Hello Pow. Yes. Nag advance booking ako nung nasa Sagada ako para di ako maubusan ng seat sa preferred time of departure ko.

Hi, do you have sample computation of how much did you spend from Manila going there?

Hi. It’s all on the blog. Thanks

Awesome. Thank you for the response. Is it pretty easy to find a jeep going to Bontoc from Banaue? I am American and not finding much good information on the internet lol thank you again for your response!

Hi Claude. Yes. There are passenger jeeps and vans at the public market going to Bontoc from Banaue every hour. You can also utilize the bus. You can check the tourism office for info once you get to Banaue to avoid getting ripped off.

Hi Claude, are you travelling solo or with groups? I am a solo bagpacker you might want a companion ofcourse I will pay for my own lol

Hi Keza! I wanted to take the route you did because I would like to see the Banaue rice terraces as well. I was going to take a Ohayami bus to Banaue but from there, how exactly did you get to Buscalan? Did you book another bus, or just find local transit?

Hello Claude. From Banaue, we took a jeep to Bontoc then in Bontoc, we rode a jeep to Buscalan.

HI . SAN PO PWEDE MAGSTAY FOR 1 NIGHT?

Hi. You can stay in Buscalan. Meron nman mga homestays dun.

Hi magkano un charge nila sa tattoo?

Hello Kathy. Depends on the design. Rate starts at P300 the time I went there.

How did you contact lokal guide and book for the home stay

I didn’t contact her in advance. They just offered their services once I got there.

Hello po. Did you visit this year? Are tourists allowed to visit the village and whang od during this pendemic? thank you!!

Prepandemic po. Di pa po allowed travel to Buscalan.

Hi how about this coming december? Pwede n po kayang magtravel?

Hello Gio. Kalinga is now open to tourist. You can ask from their official fb page if nagppasok na sa Buscalan.

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BUSCALAN Trip: Getting a Tattoo from APO WHANG OD

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Who would have thought that I’d get a tattoo? And it’s not just an ordinary tattoo, it’s from Apo Whang Od of Buscalan, Kalinga. The legendary Apo Whang Od.

If you happen to know me, I’m just a regular dude who loves traveling. I appreciate the art of tattoos but I’ve never imagined it on my skin. I was just okay with everything. Okay with no tattoos. Chill.

But everything changed since the pandemic. A lot of things happened that made me realize to enjoy life and take risks more. Don’t expect to change your life if you do the same thing over and over again, right? We should at least try something new once in a while to make us feel alive.

I’m with Apo Whang Od. 🙂

So when I had the chance to travel to Buscalan in Kalinga to meet Apo Whang Od and probably get a tattoo, I didn’t think twice.

Buscalan, Kalinga Experience

Our call time was 3 PM at Mcdonald’s in Dasmarinas, Cavite. I was there early so I just had a quick merienda . After 2 years, I’m happy to be back traveling again. This time it will be with a group of travelers from Cavite. I’ve been living in Cavite for more than 7 years but I realized that I don’t have that much friends here. Poor Jon. LOL! So this is also an opportunity to meet some new friends in the area.

We departed at 4 PM and embarked on a long land travel going to the North. We did a stopover at a gas station at NLEX to have some dinner. Then continued our journey to the Cordillera region. It was early in the morning when we arrived at the jump-off area in Buscalan. All visitors are required to register.

Buscalan Kalinga

That’s the village. 🙂

Buscalan Kalinga

The registration area.

From the jump-off area, you could already see the Buscalan’s butbut tribe, the small village where Apo Whang Od lives. You’d also have an idea of the long hike that you need to endure going there. We just rested for a while, met our guide, and started the hike.

It was tough. I don’t want to sugarcoat anything, but the hike was challenging. That’s coming from an overweight dude with minimal physical exercise during the pandemic. If you’re someone like me, I suggest you that your time. Don’t feel pressured that your companions are a lot faster. If you need to rest, take some rest. There’s only one trail and everyone will arrive at the village. You’ll just be a little late. Haha! but it doesn’t matter. The hiking reminded me of my adventures in Batad Ifugao, going to Tappiyah Falls. Lots and lots of concrete stairs in the mountain.

READ THE BLOG POST: Tappiyah Falls in Batad, Ifugao: A Grueling But Worthy Trek

Buscalan Kalinga

Kapagod ah. LOL

The Village

You don’t have any idea of my relief by the time we reached the village. Finally, the grueling hike was over. There’s a small souvenir shop to welcome you once you arrive. It was a perfect time to chill after the trek. I was one of the slow hikers to arrive there. The group was almost complete.

After a quick break, it was time to go to our Transient house. One important tip by the time you arrive in the village is to go straight to Apo Whang Od’s place and register. There are many travelers who want to be inked by Apo, so there’s a queue for that. There was already a long list of groups registered there, so it was already the next day when we got the tattoo. So register first before going to your transient house.

Buscalan Kalinga

The view from our guest house.

Where to stay in Buscalan

We then go straight to our Transient House. This is definitely the best transient house in Buscalan with stunning views of the mountains. This is GL’s Crib located at the farthest part of the village next to the rice fields. It has 4 rooms on the second floor perfect for groups and families. Our room was good for 4 people so I shared it with other fellow travelers and new friends.

While our breakfast was being prepared, we just relaxed in the common area on the second floor. The view was just breathtaking. It was a perfect chill moment after the tiring hike.

Buscalan Kalinga

Then the food was served. We all enjoyed our breakfast with this stunning view. I enjoyed my stay at this transient house. They have everything you need from food and other necessities. Please understand that the price of some food and snacks is a little bit higher because they still have to transport the products to the mountains. Imagine that.

The bathroom was clean, complete with a heater. The cool weather and the relaxing nature helped a lot for a sound sleep.

The Tattoos

One thing that every traveler in Buscalan must know, is that Apo Whang Od is now only tattooing her signature 3-dot design. I think because of her age (105 years old) and health, she’s not doing those elaborate designs anymore. This is also to accommodate the huge number of people lining up to have her tattoos.

So, if you want to get those bigger and well-designed traditional tattoos, there are other artists who can do that for you, mostly Apo’s granddaughters too, and one of them is Emily Oggay. While some of the group opted for other tattoo artists, the five of us – Pepe, Kelly, Richard, Jason, and me – chose Emily. We waited for a few hours and it was already late afternoon when we had our tattoos. We enjoyed talking and laughing with Emily. She’s a terrific tattoo artist with a smiley, positive personality.

Buscalan Kalinga

That’s Emily. Thanks Jason for the photo!

Buscalan Kalinga

Emily with Pepe and Kelly.

I chose the ‘sun’ design. I just think that after all that we’ve gone through the pandemic, the sun will shine through as a symbol of hope and a new beginning. Naks!

Apo Whang Od’s Tattoos

The time has come. After our breakfast the next day, we packed our bags and we were ready to go. But not without the tattoo from Apo Whang Od. Remember that we registered the previous day and expected to get the tattoo the next day. Well, not without waiting and queuing for hours. Again.

After lunchtime, It was finally our group’s turn. We were 12 and one by one, we were finally inked by Apo. It was a little painful, but honestly, it was tolerable. Probably because I was expecting it to be too painful just like what I’ve read and heard in the past.

Here’s the video.

It was surreal, that the person that you usually read about is actually tattooing you for real. I just couldn’t help but look at Apo Whang Od’s face while she was inking my arms. I liked seeing her smile. It was like it was love at first sight. LOL! You know what I mean. At her age, she’s such a beauty with a vibrant personality.

Buscalan Kalinga

After getting the tattoo, it was time to go back. It was kinda’ sad to leave this charming village. This has got to be one of the most relaxing places that I’ve been to in the Philippines. The experience was even more special because of Apo, and also the new friends that I met during this travel.

Buscalan Kalinga

Nice meeting you, guys! Thanks to Khalid of Yabang Outdoor for the photo,

As I walked on the trails and rice terraces going back, I couldn’t help but reflect on the entire experience. I got a tattoo. Unbelievable. It’s from Apo Whang Od.

Then, a sense of fulfillment. It’s true that doing something new will always make you feel alive. After being stuck at home during the pandemic, I’ve felt alive again. A lot of things happened in the past months, but I’m okay, and I know that everything will be alright.

How to get to Buscalan

If you’re going to commute from Metro Manila going to Buscalan, here are some options.

Via Bontoc Coda Lines Terminal in Cubao has a daily 9 PM trip going to Bontoc, Mountain Province. Once you arrive in Bontoc, there are jeepneys going to Buscalan jump-off area.

Via Baguio If you happen to explore Baguio before going to Buscalan, you just have to ride a bus going to Bontoc, Mountain Province. In Bontoc, there are jeepneys that will take you to the Buscalan village jump-off area.

Via Tabuk, Kalinga Victory Liner in Cubao has a daily trip going to Tabuk, Kalinga. The travel time is about 11 to 12 hours. Once you arrive in Tabuk, there are jeepneys that will take you to Tinglayan. Tell the driver to drop you off near the Buscalan village tourism site or jump-off area.

Of course, you can also join some group tours. In my case, I joined Yabang Outdoor . I had fun and met some new friends. Highly recommended!

Buscalan Kalinga

Che, Pepe, Kelly, Patrick and ako. Thanks Jason sa picture.

Buscalan Itinerary

Here’s an example of a 2D1N itinerary for your next Buscalan Trip.

Day 0 – 1 4 PM – Depart Metro Manila 5 AM – (next day) Arrive at the jump-off area in Buscalan 6 AM – Start the trek 7 AM – Arrive at the village 8:30 AM – Register at Apo Whang Od’s place. Expect a long queue, expect to have the tattoo either within the day or next day. 8 AM – Check in to your guest house and breakfast 9 AM – Chill time. (Free time) 12 NN – Lunch 1 PM – Time to have some tattoos. Apo’s granddaughters can do the tattoo for you. As I mentioned in this post, Apo Whang Od is only tattooing the 3-dot design. 5 PM – Free time. Relax at the guesthouse 7 PM – Dinner 9 PM – Lights out

Day 2 7 AM – Breakfast 8 AM – Picture taking at the rice terraces. Free time 12 NN – Lunch Time 1 PM – Time for Apo Whang Od’s Tattoo. This depends on the queue. If there are fewer people, you can have the tattoo before lunch, so be flexible. 2 PM – Time to trek back to the jump-off area. 3 PM – Arrive at the jump-off area. 3:30 PM – Travel back home 11:30 PM – Back at home

Buscalan Kalinga

Buscalan Travel Tips

  • For a more comfortable journey to Buscalan, there are many travel and tour operators that offer their service. In my case, I joined Yabang Outdoor which is based in Cavite. If you’re from Cavite, it’s much better to join this group. Rather than traveling to Manila before going to Buscalan.
  • If you’re not that “fit” you know, be prepared mentally for the hike. Take your time, don’t rush. Don’t be pressured by your travel buddies who hike way faster. Rest if you need to.
  • Once you arrive in Buscalan, go straight to Apo Whang Od’s place to register, to make sure you get your slots faster. In our case because of too many visitors, we were able to get the tattoo, the next day.
  • Pack light. Okay? You don’t need to bring your entire wardrobe for an overnight stay. Remember, you’re going to hike in the mountains.
  • Cell phone signal and data are so weak. Don’t expect that you’re going to have a real-time update with your followers and bashers. It can wait.
  • We’re in the mountains. No ATM. Bring enough cash. Don’t you dare buy something in the village with your credit card. LOL!
  • If you have a choice, go there on weekdays. It’s more relaxing and comfortable.
  • Of course, always practice LNT – Leave no trace.

Buscalan Travel Guide 2024

Visiting Buscalan in Kalinga offers a rich cultural experience, especially if you’re interested in the traditional tattoo art of Apo Whang-Od. Here’s a guide to help you plan your trip:

Travel and Accommodation

  • Transportation: The journey to Buscalan can be adventurous. The route from Tabuk City to Tinglayan is known for its perilous roads, absent of guard rails and with deep ravines. It takes about 4 hours to travel from Tabuk City to Tinglayan on a top load jeep, an experience that mixes fear and amazement.
  • Accommodation: Buscalan offers basic homestay accommodations owned by locals. The cost for an overnight stay is around PHP 500 per person. Expect basic facilities and immerse yourself in the local way of living.
  • Food: You can either pack canned goods or dine in local eateries, known as karenderyas , where a meal costs about PHP 100-150, including a viand, unlimited rice, and brewed coffee.

Activities and Attractions

  • Tattoo Experience: Getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od or her successors, Grace and Elyang, is a highlight. The price ranges from PHP 300 up to thousands of pesos, depending on the size and design. Apo Whang-Od’s signature three-dot tattoo costs PHP 300.
  • Exploring the Village: Take time to explore the village, visit the rice terraces, check out local wall paintings, and try the local brewed coffee. Engage in social activities with the locals, as there is no mobile reception or internet in the village.
  • Nearby Attractions: Visit the Lubo and Mangali Rice Terraces, Palang-ah Falls, and experience Chico River white water rafting. The Chico River offers opportunities for swimming, kayaking, and tubing.
  • Cultural Immersion: Engage with the local community and learn about their traditions. Visitors are encouraged to dress modestly and respect local norms.
  • Cash: Bring enough cash as ATMs are located only in the city proper.
  • Packing: Pack personal medicine, snacks, toiletries, and a reusable water bottle. Trail snacks and water are essential for the trek to the village.
  • Respect Local Culture: Always respect the indigenous people and their culture. Photography is allowed but drone use is discouraged.
  • Safety: Be cautious during the jeep rides and the hike to the village. The hike from the turning point to Buscalan Village takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Budget Planning

  • Include various expenses: Consider costs for transportation, accommodation, meals, tourist fees, guides, souvenirs, and emergency funds.

Visiting Buscalan is more than just a tourist trip; it’s an opportunity to immerse yourself in the unique culture and traditions of the Kalinga people. Prepare well to fully enjoy and respect this enriching experience​​​​​​​​​​.

Update Logs Travel: July 2022 Updated guide for 2024

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Love the energy behind your blog here and I finally get to make my way up to the village to hopefully meet the legendary Whang Od next year. A dream ever since I’ve read about her for the first time over 5 years ago.

Sad to read, she’s only doing the three dot design from now on but well understandable of course.

Anyway, I wondered, which tour company you went with, perhaps you could help us out ?

Since it would suit us much much better to travel with similar or same schedule rather than leaving Manila at 8 or even 9pm.

Best Regards Paz

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On the Road Diary

Apo Whang-Od : Road to the Oldest Tattoo Artist in the World

Apo Whang-Od : rice terraces viewed from a mountain with a blue sky and the sun shining in buscalan in the philippines

It would be a shame to visit the Philippines without exploring the tribe of the oldest tattoo artist in the world, Apo Whang-Od . This legendary woman has been tattooing people for more than 80 years now and truly is a national treasure. 

Apo Whang-Od : girl getting a hand poke tattoo by the oldest tattoo artist in the Philippines

On my way to Bali for an internship, I stopped in Shanghai for a long layover , but also in the Philippines for a 4 days solo backpacking trip . I asked myself how I could make the most of my t ime there and found the absolute best way… A trip to the middle of nowhere in the Mountain Province !

I heard about the famous and legendary woman Apo Whang-Od several times and was really intrigued. What could be better to discover a part of Filipinos culture ? Before getting more into the details of Apo Whang-Od biography , Apo Whang-Od tattoos and Apo Whang-Od location , you can check out  the video I did about the whole experience.

Who is Apo Whang-Od?

Apo Whang-Od age is as legendary as the woman herself. She turned 103 years old when I booked my Apo Whang-Od tour package in 2019. It makes her THE oldest tattoo artist in the world. 

She is also the last Mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooists) and is part of the Butbut people of the larger Kalinga ethnic group. She is keeping alive a 1000 year Filipino tradition. Traditionally, only men with special tattooing ancestry could learn the art. Apo Whang-Od was an exception due to her talent seen by her father, the master tattooist of Buscalan.

She has been doing tattoos on headhunters and indigenous people of Butbut since she was 15 years old and has always added 3 dots as her art signature. The Butbut warriors, who used to earn tattoos through protecting villages or killing enemies, no longer exist. Despite that, Whang Od continues to tattoo tourists visiting Buscalan. She well earned her place on the list of Filipinos who transformed the nation .

Apo Whang-Od tour package 2020

After spending a day in Manila at the incredible Z Hostel , I decided I NEEDED to go from Manila to Apo Whang – Od ! I trusted Corhey Travel & Tours for this crazy road trip.  And let me tell you, the Road to Buscalan is not an easy one.

Doing it through a travel agency is way safer and it allows you to avoid the pain in the ass of having to book several buses and jeepneys. The organisation takes care of the car and tour guide. It’s a long ten to fifteen hours trip in the mountains so if you’re usually sick, I strongly advised taking preventive medicine.

Apo Whang-Od : rice terraces viewed from a mountain with a blue sky and the sun shining in buscalan in the philippines

At the parking, a tour guide will take the leadership of the group and you’ll walk through wonderful small paths in the mountains and rice terraces to join Buscalan village. Once arrived, you’ll need to register. Depending on how busy Apo Whang-Od is, you may not get a tattoo from her on the day of your arrival. But you can get one from her nieces, Grace and Ilyang, to whom she untrusted her knowledge.

Apo Whang-Od tattoo design and meaning

Each symbol she tattoos has a different meaning. Apo Whang – Od tattoo design s are usually tribal prints, animals or forms like circles and lines. Some of them represent nature like the sun or the mountains, and others have deeper meaning, like strength or infertility. Apo Whang – Od best tattoo , or I would rather say, the one she did the most, is her signature. This is three aligned dots, that can easily be tattooed anywhere on the body.

Kalinga Tattoo : how she does it?

We were lucky enough to be taken care of on our first morning there. Apo, seated on a little stool on the ground, was already working on someone’s design when we arrived. It was quite impressive to see as she’s repeatedly hitting the skin with her traditional hand tools. She uses a lemon thorn needle that is attached to the end of a small bamboo stick and to another shorter stick to tap the thorn into the skin. The ink is a mixture of water and soot. Pambabatok , compared to other conventional tattooing techniques, is relatively painful. But if you’re only doing the three dots, it’s only a matter of minutes.

Apo Whang-Od : groupe of four women of all nationalities and ages in a trek in the mountains

During the whole weekend, the village took really good care of us. We slept in one of the bamboo houses all together and ate a fish & rice breakfast, a nice dinner and another breakfast with the best coffee I’ve ever tasted.

Travelling truly allows you to open your eyes, mind and heart. That’s why it can be so challenging sometimes. Travel basically is all about learning how to travel with no money and how to swim in the unknown, outside of our comfort zone.

It also teaches you how to feel deeply with the fear of getting attached to places and people you may never see again. But that’s also what makes those experiences so beautiful, worth it and rewarding !

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2024 Complete Buscalan DIY Itinerary & Budget: Everything You Need to Know

Joana Paola Gutierrez

Updated expenses as of March 2024 for Buscalan DIY Itinerary & Budget. Changes made (1) Apo’s signature tattoo now costs PhP 300.00 and (2) homestay now costs PhP 500.00/person.

It wasn’t my first time in the village, I’ve been to Buscalan before the pandemic back in 2018. Looking back to the first time I visited, so much has changed. Of course the atmosphere and the vibe is still the same. The local kids playing in the village, the simple life, the native food “ etag ” and katutubo accent, the bed weather and the serene atmosphere. Yes , I am definitely back in Buscalan — home of the famous 104 year old mambabatok .

Read my first DIY Buscalan Travel Guide here .

buscalan travel guide

Table of Contents

Buscalan Village 2022: What To Expect

It has been 4 years since I first visited Buscalan village. Some of the changes I noticed includes the houses and homestays. The houses before were very simple and typical, you can feel that you are in a secluded village. But now most houses were reconstructed and built to modern generation houses. The trail going to the village also changed which is good because the trail is now easier than before.

Time flies so fast and of course, time changed the expenses too. The guide fee, environmental fees and overnight homestays went up as expected.

buscalan travel guide

Important Things You Need To Know: Buscalan DIY Itinerary

Here are the things you need to know and prepare before your trip.

How To Go To Buscalan, Kalinga?

To start of, since Buscalan is now open I think the real question would be the transportation. “How am I gonna get there?” or “ Are public transportations open?

Good news is DIY transportation is available. Bad news is, it’s pricey and inconvenient. Most transportations are limited in a day due to the pandemic situation. From Baguio City, the buses going to Bontoc are now operating. Same with the jeepney from Bontoc going to Bugnay. But then again, keep in mind that the schedules and fares vary from the availability. It will not be smart for you to commute if you are trying to save money.

How To Go To Buscalan DIY Way?

Alternatively, if you have a private vehicle might as well go on a road trip with your friends or join a tour. There are lots of joiner tours available in Manila.

Upon arriving at the turning point, pay the necessary fees like eco cultural fee and environmental fee. Hire a guide and start the 30 minutes trek to the village.

buscalan travel guide

Contact Your Tour Guide

It’s very important to contact your guide 1 week prior your plan to get there. I highly recommend Kuya Mindo Wigan. He is a relative of Apo Whang Od and he is also very thoughtful and welcoming to us. If you want to get a photo with Apo Whang Od, arrange a tattoo session with Grace or Elyang, he can assist you! You can also ask him for homestays in the village.

Kuya Mindo Wigan 09485815554

Food & Homestays in Buscalan

For your food , you have a choice to either (1) pack canned goods or (2) eat in local karenderyas . You can cook food in your homestay, most homestays offer unlimited rice and brewed coffee. But if you want to skip the dilemma, there are karenderyas available for approximately 100-150 pesos which includes 1 viand and unlimited rice and brewed coffee.

Homestays are everywhere! No problem with this. There are no hotels or inns here, all accommodations are owned by the locals. The new price for an overnight homestay is PhP500.00 per person. Our guide Kuya Mindo also offers a homestay just below the house of Apo Whang Od.

etag

Signal & Reception

This is one of the best thing about Buscalan. There’s no signal or internet connection. My favorite way to disconnect is to go to places where the signal is weak or where there is absolutely no signal at all. Buscalan remains free from binge watching on Youtube and social media addiction. This is where you can spend the whole day socializing with people.

Updated Expenses (2022)

As mentioned earlier, prices changed and went up too. Check out the list of expenses to expect in 20222.

Tattoo Meanings & Prices

I got the chance to have a small chitchat with Grace while she’s working. We talked about things like the issue with the infamous foreign blogger, oops ! And some additional changes in the village compared to the previous days.

Below are the available designs you can choose from. Grace and Elyang can also do customized tattoo designs as long as the details are still traditionally inspired. Expect additional charges for customized designs too.

buscalan tattoo designs

The price range of the tattoo vary from the size and design. It ranges from PhP 300.00 – 50,000.00. According to Grace said, a full sleeve tattoo will take her 1 week to finish it and it costs around PhP 50,000.00.

Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo (3 dot tattoo) now costs PhP 300.00 and to take a picture with her is PhP 100.00.

buscalan travel guide

Materials Used

The materials used for batok is still the same. Pomelo thorn is still used for the needle and charcoal is still used for the ink. Before, tourists gets the chance to take home the thorn used to them. Nowadays, tourists will each buy the bamboo stick used for the batok and gets to take it home together with the needle used. The bamboo stick cost PhP 100.00 each and is great for a souvenir too!

“It’s an idea made by the young generation in Buscalan” Grace said.

buscalan travel guide

Important Tattoo Care

  • Coconut Oil  – bring your coconut oil or buy one once you get back in Manila. This is the best oil to put in your tattoo to speed up the healing process.
  • Petroleum jelly  can be an alternative.
  • Clean it with  soap and water  in the morning and before you go to bed.
  • DON’T SCRATCH OR PEEL IT OFF!  Let time heal it. It can be really itchy on its first week, but you have to prevent from scratching it if you don’t want to get tattoo keloids.

Helpful link: Clink  here  for more tattoo care suggestions and why it’s important to take care of it.

Things To Do In Buscalan Village, Kalinga

Aside from getting a tattoo the traditional way and meeting Apo Whang-Od, there are a few things you can do in the village. (Buscalan Travel Guide)

  • Explore the village – visit the rice terraces, basketball court, wall paintings and the nearby small waterfalls
  • Try eating the native food called “ etag”
  • Check out the souvenirs like ref magnets crafted by the local teens in Buscalan
  • Try the brewed coffee in Buscalan

Additional Info: Drones not allowed! 🙂

whang od tour package 2022

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5 thoughts on “ 2024 complete buscalan diy itinerary & budget: everything you need to know ”.

Thank you for the tips when traveling Buscalan. Looking at the pictures I’m sure the travel is totally worth it. The place is so relaxing. Will surely visit Buscalan soon and will follow your tips.

Thank you so much Shan!

Thank you for taking the time to write this guide quite eloquently and concisely. I’ve been researching the proper way to reach Apo Whang Ohd and so far your guide fits the bill.

I’m planning on visiting Apo around the second week within the month of October with my wife and I would like your guidance in attaining this goal. How would I be able to reach Kuya Mindo Wigan and hoiw do I go about secure a home stay ahead of time? What would be the best times to work with Apo and her nieces and what would you say the average time and cost that it would take to do a half sleeve tattoo?

I currently reside out of the Philippines and would like to organize this visit properly, so quite frankly, your guide has given out the most up-to-date information while being user friendly. I’d like to keep in contact with you in mind as a mediary while I plan out the trip if that would be appropriate with you.

Thank you very much for you time Ms. Joana. Cheers!!!

Hello Jonas! Thank you for showing interest to visit Buscalan. As for your guide’s contact, I indicated the phone number which you can message via SMS.

Hello, thank you for this helpful guide! We are hoping to head that way in a week or so. Do you know if in 2024 this info for the guide (Kuya Mindo Wigan 09485815554) is still the correct phone number? We generally use WhatsApp for foreign numbers so we were unsure about area codes. Thanks!

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CHALLENGE THE SUMMIT

Treks and Expedition

Buscalan by Apo Whang Od + Mt. Pulag Ambangeg Trail (June 06-08, 2024)

TRIP BUSCALAN BY APO WHANG OD + MT PULAG AMBANGEG TRAIL. Good for begineers Baguio City Meet up

PACKAGE INCLUSIONS: Buscalan by Apo Whang Od • 1 Night Room sharing Accommodation • Round trip Van Transfers

  • Baguio Buscalan-Pulag-Baguio • Tour guide and coordinator • Environmental Fees • Permit fees • Local Guide fees • Unli rice & brewed Kalinga coffee • Driver’s fee & Lodging

Mt Pulag via ambangeg trail 💰Registration Fee 🚶‍♀️Guide Fee 🏃‍♂️Coordinator Fee 🏞️Environmental Fee 🏤DENR FEE 🥘Hosted Meal 🏷️Permit

  • Food / personal or optional activities & others not specified in the inclusions are at participants account. *Tent and mattress (Mt pulag) ₱500 pesos

PAX ADDITIONAL ACCOUNT: (For Optional Activities) • Personal Tattoo session with the master Whang-Od (tattoo rate varies depending on the sizes & designs)

Requirements

  • Must be fully/completely vaccinate

GENERAL ITINERARY June 06 0030 Meetup Jollibee Baguio caltex branch. Front of Victory liner 0100 ETD Baguio 0530H ETA Buscalan, taytoo seasain explore the area.

June 07 0700H ETD Buscalan 1500H ETA Ambangeg, camp, dinner lights off

June 08 0130H breakfast 0200H Trek to summit 0600H summit 0630H start descent 1200H End of climb. Lunch 1400H back to baguio 1900H ETA Baguio

Best Regards, CHALLENGE THE SUMMIT TOURS TREKS AND EXPEDITION

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1 Comment on "Buscalan by Apo Whang Od + Mt. Pulag Ambangeg Trail (June 06-08, 2024)"

Hi do you have an earlier date like June 8 onwards? for Pulag and buscalan

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2024 Travel Guide to Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga

As a Filipino national, I have always been proud and fascinated with how Philippines has very rich, diverse and unique culture. I would brave long drives and take flights and ferries from an island to another just to experience it myself. I have seen how a few ethnic groups do their rituals and how their way of lives interestingly are in documentaries and even textbooks but it’s way better to experience it with them. There’s a lot of ethnic groups that still thrive in one of the Philippines’ great divide, Luzon, and they exist in the outskirts – to the highest, farthest mountains. It is not the tradition only that one can best enjoy but also the breathtaking view that it offers. If we seemingly happen to be in the same wavelength, off we go to the Cordilleras and here’s a Buscalan Travel Guide to help you start with that!

About Tinglayan Village

whang od tour package 2022

Tinglayan is a small, remote village that sits at the mountain side of Buscalan in Kalinga. It has been popularly known to be the home of the living legend and an indigenous tattoo artist, Maria Oggay also known as Apo Whang Od. In the recent years, it has become a popular tourist destination to adventurers and tattoo enthusiasts alike.

whang od tour package 2022

The language that is widely spoken in the village is Butbut . However, you can still engage in chitchats with the Butbuts especially if you speak Filipino/Tagalog as some of them have been fluent in this language.

Things to Do in Buscalan Village

1. take a sip of their rice coffee.

Aside from getting inked, there are other things to enjoy in Buscalan. First, you can sit down over a coffee with the locals and talk about their culture and traditions. Their rice coffee is a must try! For only Php 100.00 ($2.00) I was able to take home 250g of it!

whang od tour package 2022

2. Explore the beauty of Padjao Rice Terraces

It can also be best enjoyed when welcoming the sunrise, getting a dose of fresh air and cold breeze at Padjao rice terraces.

whang od tour package 2022

3. Chasing Waterfalls

On your descent or ascent, you can also try bathing into the waterfalls that you can pass by at the trail. Should you decide to stay longer, you can also try hiking into the nearby mountains.

4. Get a hand-tapped tattoo

What you should definitely not miss when visiting Buscalan Village is getting a tattoo in a traditional way. There are various locals who could do it other than Apo Whang Od herself and her nieces, Grace and Elyang. The rate for tattoo starts at Php 500.00 for a basic design that is about 2×2″ in size. Apo Whang Od’s signature (three dots) costs Php 300.00.

whang od tour package 2022

The tribes in Kalinga are known for doing the traditional tattooing locally known as “Batok” or hand-tapped. They use thorn from a fruit-bearing tree and charcoal in this technique.

Thinking of getting a tattoo in Buscalan soon? Here’s something that you may find interesting: What You Should Know About Getting a Tattoo in Buscalan Village

whang od tour package 2022

How to Go To Buscalan Village in Tinglayan, Kalinga

There are several ways that this Buscalan Travel guide suggests for you to get to the Village. You can get there via Tuguegarao City , Baguio or Tabuk City, Kalinga from Manila .

Option 1: Manila to Tinglayan via Tabuk City, Kalinga

A. From Kamias, Quezon City, you can take a Victory Liner bus straight to Tabuk. Check their Facebook page for the trip schedule. B. From Tabuk, get into a jeep bound for Tinglayan, alight at Bugnay (turning point/ junction).

Option 2: Manila to Tinglayan via Bontoc, Ifugao

A. From Cubao, you can take a Coda Lines bus to Bontoc (Departs between 8:00 PM and 10:00 PM) B. Alight at Bontoc then take a bus or jeep to Tabuk. The first trip departs at 7:00 AM while the second is at 9:00 AM. The next trips depart in the afternoon at 1:00 PM. C. From Tabuk, get into a jeep bound for Tinglayan, alight at Bugnay (turning point/ junction).

Option 3: Tuguegarao City, Cagayan to Tinglayan via Tabuk City

A. From the city center, take a van to Tabuk. B.  From Tabuk, get into a jeep bound for Tinglayan, alight at Bugnay (turning point/ junction).

Option 4: Baguio City to Tinglayan via Tabuk City, Kalinga

A. Take a bus to Bontoc B.  Alight at Bontoc then take a bus or jeep to Tabuk. C.  From Tabuk, get into a jeep bound for Tinglayan, alight at Bugnay (turning point/ junction)

whang od tour package 2022

Buscalan Village Important Fees

Before proceeding to Tinglayan Village, take note that you should pay for the following fees:

  • Environmental fee – Php 50.00 per person ($1.00)
  • Cultural Tourism Fee – Php 50.00 per person ($1.00)
  • Local Guide Fees (day trip) – for a group of 5 ($19.00)
  • Local Guide fees (overnight trip) – Php 1,500.00 for a group of 5 ($28.00)

On the other hand, here’s a list of fees that you may wanna know:

  • Photo op with Apo Whang Od – Php 100.00 ($2.00)
  • Apo Whang Od’s signature (three dots) – Php 300.00 ($6.00)
  • Bamboo thorn holder – Php 100.00 ($2.00)

Traditional tattoo designs start at Php 500.00 for a 2×2″ size.

Where to Stay in Buscalan Village

whang od tour package 2022

Buscalan Village will welcome you with Butbut kids running around and wandering boars. Expect no fancy inns nor hotels and warm showers in the village for you got to live a basic life with the locals. 

There are no hostels nor inns in the village but that shouldn’t worry you. They offer their own homes for homestays ranging for only Php 350.00 a night. You’ll be provided with mattresses, blankets, pillows, food and a room at their own houses. The locals are very accommodating that they would really give and assist you with what you need. They’ll really treat you like their own family. You can actually sit down with them and talk about everything under the sun.

whang od tour package 2022

Sample Buscalan Itinerary

This Buscalan Travel Guide includes a side trip to Ifugao’s Rice Terraces. This is ideal if you’re to bring your own vehicle.

8:00pm – depart from Manila

6:00am – ETA at Bontoc/ breakfast 7:00am – ETD to Junction 9:00am – ETA Junction/ start trek 10:00am – ETA Buscalan Village/ take stuff to homestay 12:00nn – LUNCH 1:00pm onwards – tattoo session/ photo ops at Padjao Rice Terraces/ socials/ coffee 10:00pm – Star gazing/ socials

5:00am – watch the sun rise (it’s one of the most glorious sunrise you’ll ever see!)/ coffee 6:30am – breakfast 7:30am – 9:00am – tattoo session/ photo ops with Whang Od 10:00am – pack up 10:30am – start descent 11:30am – ETA junction/ Depart to Bontoc 1:00pm – late lunch 2:00pm – Bagyo Rice Terraces 2:30pm – Viewpoint (Banaue Rice Terraces) 3:30pm – Home bound 6:00pm – dinner  at Solano 2:00am – ETA Manila

Tips and Reminders when visiting Tinglayan Village in Buscalan

  • Always coordinate with a local guide prior to your visit.
  • Bring enough cash. The nearest ATMs are located at the city proper.
  • Expect basic accommodation in the village since only homestays are available. It is also a good way to connect with the locals.
  • There is no mobile reception or network signal in the village at all.
  • You can take photos all you want but they discourage the use of drones.
  • Respect the indigenous people and their culture.
  • Make sure that you’ll bring everything that you need, even personal medicine, snacks and toiletries, as the convenience stores in the village only offer limited goods.
  • Bring trail snack and water (preferably in a reusable water bottle) prior to your trek to the village.
  • There are local eateries in the village. Take this as an opportunity to try their cooking especially their local food.

whang od tour package 2022

Buscalan, Kalinga Travel Requirements 2023

The only travel requirement needed to get into Kalinga is an LGU-issued vaccination card or vaccination certificate from https://vaxcert.doh.gov.ph/ . The standard health protocols should be observed at all times.

Buscalan Travel Guide, In a Nutshell

Did this Buscalan Travel Guide help or does it, in any way, need improvements? Let us know through the comments section!

Other places to see and explore in North Luzon:

Meanwhile, here are the other places in north Luzon that you may want to explore other than the quaint village of Buscalan:

  • North Luzon Loop Road Trip Travel Guide 2023
  • La Union’s Tangadan Falls DIY Travel Guide 2023
  • Landingan Viewpoint, Nagtipunan, Quirino Province DIY Travel Guide 2023

Top Places to Visit in Sagada, Mountain Province

  • ISABELA PROVINCE TRAVEL GUIDE 2023
  • 2023 DIY ILOCOS NORTE TRAVEL GUIDE

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Anne Elizabeth Gumiran

Anne Elizabeth Gumiran, also known as Queenie, is a 20-something, full-time public school teacher, a part-time travel blogger and a freediver. She started putting her stories of adventures and misadventures into words and pictures in 2017 and continues to do so as she shares her advocacy, Sustainable Traveling.

whang od tour package 2022

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28 comments.

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Hi. Ask ko lang kung pagdating sa drop off point papuntang buscalan. Meron nang available na tour guide. Mag DIY lang kasi kami ng friend ko. Thanks.

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I love what you do here, Queenie!

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Thank you, Melody! 🙂

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Amazing! I have been to Banaue und Sagada and fell in love! Unfortunately not visiting Wang Od. Can you tell me how to schedule a tattoo-session with her? I mean, is she all time free and available? 😀

Buscalan, Kalinga is another place that you should be if you loved those two as this one gives a different local vibe! 🙂 Contacting and hiring a tour guide is a must in here. As for the tattoo session, you have to coordinate it with him or her and he/she will let you know about when can you get inked 🙂

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Hi, I want to know if from tabuk, where to take the Jeep, and do I need to wait for a while for the keep to Bugnay? When I alight at Bugnay, should I take a motorbike to turning point?

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Hi dear Anna, I find your story very fascinating. I am alone travelling from Manila and I basically have 2 days and half(arriving in the morning and leaving back from manila on the 3d day). Is there any way to do what you have done booking through a tour guide or contacting someone there to be sure that at mine arrival there will be someone. I dewm of seeing the rice terrace and having a tattoo done.

Thank you so much for your help!!

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Thank you for sharing your experience. It’s very detailed . I have the same question as above. Any information would help. I’ve been trying to reach out to guides or travel companies that can help with finding a guide in Buscalan.

Also would you know if the village still does tattoos during the holiday season from Dec 20th onwards ?

Thank you ♥️

Hello! You may contact the local who guided us during our visit in there last time, Ate Annie . Buscalan is open for tourists during the holiday season and they also accept tattooing services. As per Ate Annie, some tourists would also opt to spend the holidays in there! 🙂

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hellotraveller

this is very informative thank you! just wanna ask if they are accepting tourists this pandemic? like, are there any requirements or do we need to test for covid first?

Hello! Thank you for reading! As far as I know, they are still not allowing tourists in the town. It would be risky especially for those who live in Buscalan.

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angelito Abueg almero

May We have a number to contact where we can stay overnight and cook our food

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Sonny Alforque

Will a trip to Buscalan involve unusually demanding physical challenges for elderly travellers?

Hi, Sonny, unfortunately, yes. There’s a 40-minute to an hour trek that is uphill and I’m afraid it would really be challenging for an elderly as it was for us.

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Mike Angelo Gotladera

Hello. I love the detailed explation by the way. Can i travel solo to buscalan? And where do i find my guide ? Thank you.

Hello, Mike! Thanks for reading! Yes, you may but it may be a bit pricey. You may want to contact our guide Ate Annie Cumitag if ever you decide to visit.

MIKE ANGELO GOTLADERA

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Hello Anne, My husband and I, with our son, are planning a trip to Buscalan. We intend to drive there. A couple questions. First, what can you tell me about check points or issues on the road? My husband is not pinoy but i am and we are from Negros. So im cocerned if check points might be a problem. Any issues or worries about other non government groups on the route to Buscalan? Lastly, are we able to park our vehical at the Buscalan Turning Point?

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Yes, you can travel alone. I was a single traveler and joined a random group out of Manila for my visit to Buscalan in April of 2019. I was the only American in the village at that time. We got a guide from the village (college student) that set up our time to see Apo Whang Od. We stayed overnight in the village and saw Apo and Grace the next day.

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Hi there. I sent a message a couple of days ago to Ms Annie D Bayog through messenger but I don’t have any reply. Is she still in charge of bookings?

I would like to come for a few days, starting December 9th. I am a solo traveller. Could you please put me in touch of any travel company that would organise my trip?

I am also happy to do things on my own but I know in the Philippines we need a guide for everything:)

Hello! The message may have slid into her spam. She’s very responsive 🙂 For organized tours, you may want to reach out to a friend, John of Byahero .

I would like to visit and I am a solo traveller but your contact Annie G is not replying. Did someone else took over her?

Hi! I just told her about it. Please bear with her. The signal isn’t good in their area 🙂

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Very helpful guide! We’re a group of four planning a DIY trip during the first week of January next year. I was wondering if your sample itinerary is tailored for a DIY experience or for a private car. I’m considering booking a bus via Coda Lines (Cubao-Bontoc) but concerned about the availability of jeepneys upon our early arrival in Bontoc. Any insights would be appreciated! Thank you!

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Hi Anne! Your guide is incredibly helpful! We’re a group of four planning a DIY trip during the first week of January next year. I was wondering if your sample itinerary is tailored for a DIY experience or if for a private car. I’m considering booking a bus via Coda Lines (Cubao-Bontoc) but concerned about the availability of jeepneys upon our early arrival in Bontoc. Any insights would be appreciated! Thank you!

Hi, JC thanks for checking this blog out! Glad you found it helpful. To answer your questions, Bontoc is pretty much a gateway to a lot of destinations in the Cordilleras. There are lots of jeeps (and even buses) available as early as 7:00 AM up to 4:00 PM only. The itinerary I tailored for this Buscalan trip is for DIY travel (at least it was the actual for our group but take note that we are a group of 10) but give it an allowance of say an hour or two due to several factors like waiting time for passengers and all. Hope these help! 🙂

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Hello. Saw this as I was researching for the beat route to buscalan. We’re planning to got there this weekend but we’ll be doing so via DIY trip only since weekday sched namin.. We’re planning na magtake ng bus if possible past 11pm to midnight sana na trip. Is the option you provided applicable or you have better suggestions? Ang gulo kasi ng guide namin sabi Victory Liner daw na bus pa tabuk pero check ko yung page nila ang until 9pm lg ganong byahe.. accurate rin ba yung nasa site? Hehe. Anyways, I appreciate if ever you can give your insight. Thanks so much!

Hello! Victory Liner’s bus schedule may vary the reason why I opted not to put it on the blog 🙂 They usually update and post about it on their website/ page. Th Coda Lines bus schedule is the most definite of all. Its 10:00 PM schedule is the best for me.

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3D/ 1N BUSCALAN TOUR “whang-od”

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3D1N BANAUE – BUSCALAN

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✅ Roundtrip Van Transfers MNL – BUSCALAN – MNL ✅ Room Accommodation ✅ 3 days complimentary breakfast ✅ Entrance Fees ✅ Complete Tour ✅ Gas, Toll Fee, Parking Fee

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  • (Manila–Calatagan –Manila)
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* Food/ personal or optional activities & others not specified in the inclusions are at participants account.

* Sample Itinerary is ready upon request

ADVENTURE HIGHLIGHTS:

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Starfish Island

  • Sandbar Little Boracay
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Adventure Highlights:

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  1. Whang-od Village un-edited Trek

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  2. Kalinga Tour Package

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  4. BUSCALAN: 3-Day Itinerary, Budget + Travel Guide To Visit Apo Whang Od

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  5. BUSCALAN TRAVEL VLOG 2022|APO WHANG OD|BUSCALAN, TINGLAYAN, KALINGA

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  6. Whang-od: Der Letzte Echte Tätowierer

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COMMENTS

  1. Kalinga Buscalan Tour Package

    Home of the Last Mambabatok. Whang-od Oggay is famed as the last mambabatok, a Filipina tattoo artist from Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga. Visitors from all over the world visit Buscalan for a chance to be inked by the oldest tattoo artist in the Philippines. Private Tour Package. PHP2,300/guest @ 14 Participants. PHP2,400/guest @ 13 Participants.

  2. Kalinga Tour Package

    Kalinga Tour Package harry 2022-08-16T09:53:49+00:00. Availability. Grab our Best Affordable deal Today! ... PACKAGE INCLUSIONS: Meet Apo Whang-Od-a living legend of Kalinga culture! Room Accommodation; Round trip AC Van Transfers (Manila-Kalinga-Manila) (Diesel, Toll fees, Parking fees)

  3. 2-Day Adventure to Buscalan Kalinga Tattoo Village of Apo Whang-Od from

    You may also get a small Apo Whang-Od signature tattoo from her. Then around 10:30 AM, you'll check out and leave where your 2-day, 1-night Buscalan trip ends. You will then have lunch on the way to the iconic Banaue Rice Terraces Viewdeck. After your time here, you'll make your way back to Manila. Spend 2 days in the historic village of ...

  4. Scenic 3-Day Sagada and Buscalan Apo Whang-Od Tattoo Village Package

    Explore some of the natural gems of North Luzon when you book this 3-day Sagada and Buscalan tour package. This package is perfect for those visiting the two destinations for the first time as it already comes with roundtrip transportation from and to Manila, homestay accommodations in Buscalan and Sagada, tours in both destinations, a coordinator, and select meals.

  5. Travel Guide to Buscalan Tattoo Village in Kalinga: Home to Apo Whang-Od

    Photo from 2-day Buscalan Kalinga Apo Whang-Od Tour Package from Manila. Home to over 7,640 islands, the Philippines is popular for its beautiful white sand beaches. But beyond popular destinations like Boracay and Palawan, you can find scenic mountain destinations and a rich and diverse cultural heritage scattered across the archipelago.. In recent years, a remote destination in the ...

  6. Kalinga Tour Package (with Whang-od Tattoo)

    Experience the cultural richness of the Philippines with our Kalinga Tour Package. Journey to the heart of the Cordilleras, meet the legendary mambabatok Whang-od, and get a traditional Kalinga tattoo.

  7. Journey to the Legendary Whang-Od in Buscalan, Kalinga: An Ultimate

    Embarking on a journey to Buscalan, a secluded village in Kalinga, Philippines, is not just a travel experience; it's a pilgrimage to the heart of ancient artistry. Whang-Od Oggay, the centenarian and the last mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist) of her generation, has put Buscalan on the global map. Travelers and tattoo enthusiasts from ...

  8. Buscalan Village Tinglayan Kalinga Travel Guide (Itinerary + Tips)

    Apo Whang-Od signature tattoo composed of three dots that represent herself and her blood-related successors. So if you want to have a traditional tattoo in your body then visiting Buscalan village should be on your top priority. ... Batanes Travel Guide September 13, 2022 Bell Church December 16, 2023 Saud Beach July 1, 2023. Hi everyone! I am ...

  9. Buscalan Village: Budget Kalinga Travel Guide

    We visited Apo Whang Od on a 2D1N trip and this is our comprehensive travel guide to Apo Whang Od's place: ... 2022 10:47 AM. Hi Jay, Yes, pwedeng pwede naman. The only problem is the weather. ... and there are a lot of travel companies there offering package tours to Buscalan. If you have further questions, just let me know and have a safe ...

  10. Getting A Tribal Tattoo from Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan, Kalinga

    Travel time is 10 hours, fare is P725 per person. (Option 1): From Bontoc, ride a jeepney to the jump-off point to Buscalan Village. Travel time is 2 hours, fare is P100 per person. ... (2022), Apo Whang-Od is over 100 years old so she no longer tattoos large designs. Instead, she only does her signature tattoo (the three dots). Moreover ...

  11. BUSCALAN: 3-Day Itinerary + Budget Travel Guide 2024

    Apo Whang Od is probably one of the most revered Filipinas of our generation. She is a living national treasure being hailed as the oldest " Mambabatok " of the native tribe of Butbut in Buscalan Village, Kalinga. Mambabatok refers to the people who practice the art of traditional tattoo making called Batok which is popular among the tribal warriors of the Cordillera region.

  12. BUSCALAN Trip: Getting a Tattoo from APO WHANG OD

    Apo Whang-Od's signature three-dot tattoo costs PHP 300. Exploring the Village: Take time to explore the village, visit the rice terraces, check out local wall paintings, and try the local brewed coffee. Engage in social activities with the locals, as there is no mobile reception or internet in the village. ... Travel: July 2022

  13. From Brooklyn to Buscalan: A Journey to Whang Od

    Whang Od sets up her wooden tattoo stool under a small stairwell with the perfect amount of light. Her grandnieces, Grace and Elyang, tattoo on a balcony a few steps away, where they spend their days working together side by side. With no children of her own, Whang Od is training Grace and Elyang to carry on mambabatok practices. I planned to ...

  14. Apo Whang-Od : Road to the Oldest Tattoo Artist in the World

    Apo Whang-Od age is as legendary as the woman herself. She turned 103 years old when I booked my Apo Whang-Od tour package in 2019. It makes her THE oldest tattoo artist in the world. She is also the last Mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooists) and is part of the Butbut people of the larger Kalinga ethnic group.

  15. 2024 Complete Buscalan DIY Itinerary & Budget: Everything You Need to

    Apo Whang-Od's signature tattoo (3 dot tattoo) now costs PhP 300.00 and to take a picture with her is PhP 100.00. 106-year Old Mambabatok. Grace Palicas; Elyang Wigan; Grace's Adorable Daughter Materials Used. The materials used for batok is still the same. Pomelo thorn is still used for the needle and charcoal is still used for the ink ...

  16. Buscalan by Apo Whang Od

    Baguio City Meet up. PACKAGE INCLUSIONS: Buscalan by Apo Whang Od. • 1 Night Room sharing Accommodation. • Round trip Van Transfers. Baguio Buscalan-Pulag-Baguio. • Tour guide and coordinator. • Environmental Fees. • Permit fees.

  17. VISITING WHANG OD in BUSCALAN: the long road to the living cultural

    That short-lived experience in Buscalan with Apo Whang Od is sure "one for the books" in my travel history. THE VISUAL GUIDE OF THE TRAIL AFTER THE TURNING POINT . THE VISUAL GUIDE ON THE MOUNTAINUOUS TRAIL. The "Habal Habal"-Ride-of-our-life route from the Turning Point to the highway (Php 100.000) (screenshot from Google Maps)

  18. 2024 Travel Guide to Buscalan Village, Tinglayan, Kalinga

    Photo op with Apo Whang Od - Php 100.00 ($2.00) Apo Whang Od's signature (three dots) - Php 300.00 ($6.00) Bamboo thorn holder - Php 100.00 ($2.00) Traditional tattoo designs start at Php 500.00 for a 2×2″ size. Where to Stay in Buscalan Village . Buscalan Village will welcome you with Butbut kids running around and wandering boars.

  19. Sagada Tour Package

    Option for Whang-Od please let us know. DAY 0 - DEPART MANILA 8-9PM (MALL OF ASIA, CENTRIS, OR PAMPANGA PICK UP ... Rate per person for private Sagada Tour package. 3 DAYS 2 NIGHTS ACCOMMODATION on your chosen hotel. 3599 per pax 12pax ... STANDARD TOUR GUIDE RATES as of Oct 26, 2022 changes may vary depending on LGU and Sagada Tourism update:

  20. 3D/ 1N BUSCALAN TOUR "whang-od"

    Inclusions: Roundtrip Van Transfers MNL - BUSCALAN - MNL. Room Accommodation. 3 days complimentary breakfast. Entrance Fees. Complete Tour. Gas, Toll Fee, Parking Fee. Video buscalan. For more information kindly email us @.

  21. Sagada Tour Package

    Whang-Od Kalinga Tour. La Union Tour Package. Pinatubo Tour Package. Sagada Tour Package. ... Contact Us; Reservation; Sagada Tour Package harry 2022-08-16T09:56:48+00:00. Availability. Grab our Best Affordable deal Today! Open for Private/Exclusive Tour. For Private /Exclusive tour may choose your preferred dates. ... 2 Days 1 Nights Tour Package

  22. BUSCALAN PACKAGE Tattoo by Apo Whang Od

    BUSCALAN PACKAGE Tattoo by Apo Whang Od - Facebook

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    Whang-Od Kalinga Tour. La Union Tour Package. Pinatubo Tour Package. Sagada Tour Package. Subic Tour Package. Tagaytay Tour Package. Contact Us; Reservation; Search for: Home; About; ... Calatagan Batangas Tour Package harry 2022-08-16T09:55:17+00:00. Availability. Grab our Best Affordable deal Today!