haines alaska day trips

• Information
• About Alaska
• Meet Your Guides
• Our Testimonials
• Why Choose Us
• Arrigetch Peaks
• Canning River Rafting
• Sea Kayak Icy Bay
• Above The Circle (NEW!)
• Adventure To Oz
• Decadent Denali (NEW!)
• Seven Pass Route
• The Southern Traverse
• The Northern Traverse
• The Goat Trail
• Photo Tours
• Alaska Landscapes
• Aurora Borealis
• Bald Eagles
• Brown Bears & Coastal Wildlife
• Brown Bears of Summer
• Fat Bears in the Fall
• Grizzlies in the Mist
• Northern Lights in the Fall
• Polar Bears
• Hungry Whales Photo Tour
• Backpacking
• Packrafting
• Sea Kayaking
• Snowshoeing

Where We Go

• Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
• Denali National Park
• Gates of the Arctic NP
• Lake Clark NP
• Wrangell St. Elias NP
• Eye of the Beholder
• Expeditions
• Gates of the Arctic
• Wrangell St. Elias
• Grizzly Bears
• Guests Gallery
• Northern Lights

• Explore Our Trips

Haines, Alaska

With a population approximately 2000, Haines qualifies as a “small town”. But honestly, it’s more than that. It’s simply an awesome small town.

Haines is also often called the Adventure Capital of Alaska. Visitors and residents alike enjoy all kinds of fun stuff, rafting the Chilkat River, heli-skiing the Takshanuk and Chilkat Mountains outside of town, or exploring the region on foot.

For me, photographing the most famous of resident, the American Bald Eagle is what brings me here most often.

Haines is also home to a surprisingly large community of artist. What small town of 2000 people do you know of with over 20 published authors residing there? it’s a vibrant little town that I fall a little deeper in love with every time I return.

Haines Trips

Bald Eagle Photo Tour

An American icon. Thousands of them. Bring Your Camera. Or Two.

On a scale of 1 – 5, five being the most challenging, one boot is appealing. Basically it means “You got this” .

1 boot = basecamp/dayhike easy 2 boots = easier backpacking trip 3 boots = intermediate level trip 4 boots = intermediate to advanced backpacking 5 boots = ask yourself are you really ready for this?

Expect whatever level you think might best fit you to be one level LOWER on our scale. Hiking here in Alaska is generally a step or three above what you’ll find in the Lower 48 states.

One boot is about as easy as we do here in Alaska. That doesn’t mean it’s easy; you’re carrying gear, and even on a basecamp trip you’ll find expending some effort required of you. And there is always the weather or some other adversarial element to contend with.

What you won’t find on a single-boot-rated trip is the difficult terrain challenges we see on our other ventures. No glacial moraines to deal with, or alder and muskeg, or sidehills to wreak havoc on your ankles hours on end.

Great option for starters, the older or the younger folks who want to see some astonishing remote wild country, without all the rigors or the more common backpacking adventures we undertake. You’ll love it.

Enjoy Your Trip

Where to stay.

There are a number of small local B&Bs in the Haines area, as well as a couple of hotels that offer lodging. Our photo tour groups stay at Aspen Suites. For other travelers, a few options include Aspen Suites Captain’s Choice 33 mile roadhouse Beach Roadhouse Lynn View Lodge Chilkat Eagle B&B Glacier View Lodge

Tons of places to visit and things to do. A few nearby include

Glacier Bay NP Kluane NP CA Skagway XC skiing, heliskiing and snowboarding Haines Museum Hammer Museum Alaska Indian Arts

Mountain Market  (best place ever) The Chilkat Bakery – Email Lighthouse Restaurant – Email Fogcutters Bar Bear-rittos Bamboo Room 33 Mile Roadhouse

All have good food. There are also two small grocery stores in town.

Our hometown of Haines is a gateway to incredible adventure. Haines is a beautifully scenic coastal town of about 2500 people. It offers incredible wildlife viewing and outstanding outdoor adventures. From the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve and it's abundant eagle and moose habitat, to the regular bear sightings at Chilkoot Lake, there is a unique wildlife adventure awaiting visitors to Haines. It is just 40 miles from the Canadian border along a National Scenic Byway rife with scenic mountain views, wild rivers and plentiful wildlife.

It hosts a rich cultural history with one of the first military forts in Alaska, and is only 20 miles from the native Tlingit village of Klukwan. It has a series of great hiking trails, kayaking routes, and gorgeous Alaska scenery. Haines offers an immersive and unique small town Alaska experience that is an ideal visit on one of our Alaska-Yukon travel itineraries. Most visitors have a hard time leaving this quintessential Alaska town.

Search Trips

• All Experiences Wildlife-Program Adventure-Program Scenic-Exploration
• Any Meeting Point Juneau Whitehorse Haines
• Any Price $2500 - $3500 $3500 - $4500 $4500 - $5500 $5500 - $6500 $6500 - $7500 $7500 - $8500 $8500 - $9150

*Starting from prices, per person, in USD

Golden circle adventure from juneau, price: $5980*.

Explore the best adventures around the Golden Circle with mountain biking, sea kayaking, canoeing, alpine tundra hiking, distillery tasting, and more. See Alaska and the Yukon the way they were meant to be explored - on unforgettable adventures!

• Destination: Juneau, Haines, Skagway, Whitehorse, Haines Junction, and Carcross
• Activity: Adventure-Program
• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Duration: 7 days
• Meeting Point: Juneau

Trip Details

Golden Circle Adventure From Whitehorse

Price: $5810*.

Experience the best adventures around the Golden Circle on this sporty 7-day journey. Mountain biking in the Yukon, kayaking in Glacier Bay, canoeing to and trekking across the Mendenhall Glacier, and coastal hiking await you in the best small towns in Alaska and the Yukon.

• Meeting Point: Whitehorse

SE Alaska Extreme Adventure

Price: $9150*.

Get out and explore some of the most extreme sports available in Southeast Alaska and the Yukon. Access glacial ice climbing via helicopter, mountain bike down incredible single track in the Yukon, hike through the clouds beyond the Juneau tramway, and explore the alpine tundra along the famed White Pass. This itinerary is designed for adventure explorers looking to explore what Alaska and the Yukon have to offer on daily expeditions.

• Destination: Haines and Skagway, AK
• Duration: 11 days

Haines Wildlife Experience

Price: $2280*.

Join us on a 3-day exploration of the best wildlife, scenic, and adventurous opportunities that Haines has to offer! Explore glacial terrain, temperate rainforest, and the exotic wildlife that calls Southeast Alaska home. This itinerary is designed for the traveler on a tight timeframe, allowing you to enjoy the best of Alaska in less than a week!

• Destination: Haines, AK
• Activity: Wildlife-Program
• Difficulty: Easy
• Duration: 3 days
• Meeting Point: Haines

Southeast Alaska Wildlife Quest

Price: $5400*.

See rare wildlife up-close in gorgeous natural settings on this ultimate wildlife viewing adventure! We will see whales, bears, seals, sea lions, bald eagles, moose, wolves, and more on this scenic tour of Southeast Alaska's natural wildlife.

• Destination: Juneau, Haines and Gustavus.
• Duration: 6 days

SE Alaska Scenic Exploration

Price: $5410*.

Experience wilderness and jaw-dropping scenery on this 6-day tour of the most breathtaking vistas in Southeast Alaska. Marvel at glaciers 100' tall; see bears, eagles, sea lions, and whales up close; explore rainforest, pristine lakes, and gorgeous fjords. See the best of the best on this scenic extravaganza!

• Destination: Juneau, Skagway, Haines and Gustavus.
• Activity: Scenic-Exploration

Southeast Alaska Adventure

Price: $6325*.

Experience Alaska and the Yukon through jaw-dropping, unique, and exciting active adventures. Trek across glaciers, kayak through pristine seas, fly over Glacier Bay National Park, mountain bike down world-class single-track, hike in alpine tundra, and more on this active 6-day itinerary.

• Destination: Juneau, Skagway, Haines, and Gustavus.

Golden Circle Scenic Exploration – from Whitehorse

Price: $4200*.

Travel the Golden Circle from Whitehorse and explore the towns of Haines, Skagway and Juneau. Experience the beauty of the Southeast Alaska glaciers, native culture, and Yukon Gold Rush history in this 7-day itinerary.

Golden circle scenic exploration – from juneau, price: $5120*.

Travel the Golden Circle from Juneau and explore the towns of Haines, Skagway and Whitehorse. Experience the beauty of Southeast Alaska glaciers, native culture, and Yukon Gold Rush history in this 7-day itinerary.

• Difficulty: Moderate

Explore Haines:

Your ultimate travel destination for authentic alaskan adventure.

2024 Visitor Schedule

The nature of a place.

Experience the vast Alaskan wilderness with epic views and that get-away-from-it-all feel.

Getting Here

Just north of Juneau and a little south of Skagway, Haines is only 45 miles from the United States/Canadian border and is accessible by road, air, and water.

Tours & Excursions

American bald eagle foundation, museums, history & culture, local arts & galleries, cruises & ferries, camping & backpacking, fishing & charters, featured events, taco tuesday, burger feed, friday night trivia @ the p-bar, saturday night karaoke @ the p-bar, october to march.

During the winter months, enjoy skiing, snowshoeing, snow machining, and hiking.

April to September

In the summer go kayaking, fishing, hiking, paddleboarding, camping, and more.

VISITORS CENTER

122 SECOND AVENUE  |  HAINES AK 99827

907-766-6418   | 

[email protected]

Tourism Director, Rebecca Hylton

[email protected] | 1-907-314-3208

April HOURS

MON -FRI:  9AM - 5PM  

©2024 Visit Haines. All Rights Reserved.

Haines Travel

Haines travel information.

• Town of Haines

Seaplane: From Juneau, a 35-minute local commuter flight will bring you to Haines. Alaska Seaplanes has the most options, and has several runs a day from Juneau to Haines in the summer.

Flightseeing: We can also arrange for a scenic chartered flight from Fly Drake if you would like to see more of the Lynn Canal or beyond on your way to Haines with legendary ski plane pilot, Drake Olson.

Baggage: Typically, you are allowed two 50 lb bags at no extra charge. For bags weighing 50-70 lb, there is usually an additional charge per bag. It is often cheaper to have two bags over 50 lb than a third bag.   If you travel through other countries for a stopover, you may be charged excess baggage fees for anything over 44 lb (20 kilos) on each flight. If possible, pack your backpack and gear inside a large duffel bag to keep them from being damaged.   Airline Tickets: Make certain that your ticket matches the full name on your driver’s license or passport.

Alaska Marine Highway: The Alaska Marine Highway System operates daily ferries from Juneau, Haines, Skagway, and other ports around Alaska. There are even routes from Bellingham, WA., with car transportation available.   Sailings are frequent, but less frequent than flights. However, ferries are less likely to cancel due to weather. They are a great way to see the coast of Southeast Alaska, with heated decks, cafeterias, and and enclosed viewing decks. There are even staterooms available for overnight sailings.   Ferry service from Juneau to Haines takes 4-5 hours.   Alaska Fjordlines: Another option during the summer is the sleek Alaska Fjordlines system. They operate between Haines, Skagway, and Juneau. It takes about 3 hours to sail from Juneau to Haines. Driving to Haines is an exciting undertaking. You an drive to Haines from Anchorage, Fairbanks, Canada, and the Lower 48 states. Haines can be accessed via the Haines Highway, which begins with its intersection with the ALCAN at Haines Junction, Yukon Territory.

From Seattle: Driving to Haines from Seattle is an exciting adventure. It takes you through the remote and rugged mountains of British Columbia via the Cassiar Highway. As the route is remote, we recommend bringing camping gear, food, water, and warm clothing for the drive. There is lodging available along the drive, but might be few and far between. Make sure your vehicles maintenance is up to date and that your tires are sound. From Seattle, it is about 1600 miles to Haines. We recommend 3-5 days to make the drive. Driving Directions from Seattle

From Anchorage: To drive from Anchorage, it is about 800 miles to Haines. Plan for 2-3 days of driving. As the route is remote, we recommend bringing camping gear, food, water, and warm clothing for the drive. Driving Directions from Anchorage

From Fairbanks: To drive from Fairbanks, it is about 700 miles to Haines. Plan for 2-3 days of driving. As the route is remote, we recommend bringing camping gear, food, water and warm clothing for the drive. Driving Directions from Fairbanks

Winter/Spring Driving Conditions: Snow and ice conditions on the Haines Highway, the Cassiar Highway, and the ALCAN Highway can persist from October through early May. The roads can be impassible for days at a time, and temperatures can be below zero degrees Fahrenheit. Driving during this time period requires winter driving considerations. Some combination of snow chains, studded tires, and four wheel drive is necessary. Make sure you bring with a camping stove, winter sleeping bag, food, water, and warm clothing if you plan to travel during this time. A satellite communications device is also recommended in the winter. In general, it is not recommended to drive before April. Feel free to contact us for more info if you want to drive in the spring or winter.

• Aspen Suites Hotel
• Captain's Choice Motel
• Eagles Nest Motel
• Hotel Halsingland
• Portage Cove Campground ( (Public Campground in Haines, $10/ night)

  Juneau Lodging Options:

• Extended Stay America Juneau
• Best Western Grandma’s Feather Bed
• Frontier Suites
• Super 8 Juneau

• Order Status
• Juneau Tours
• Mendenhall Glacier Ice Adventure
• Mendenhall Lake Canoe
• Dog Sledding
• Juneau Icefield Helicopter Tour
• Whale Watching & Mendenhall Glacier
• Mendenhall Glacier Dog Sledding
• Mendenhall Glacier Helicopter Tour
• Musher's Camp
• Whale Watching & Salmon Bake
• Taku Lodge Flight & Feast
• Things to Do in Juneau
• Skagway Tours
• White Pass Railroad
• Bennett Scenic Railroad
• Yukon Discovery
• White Pass Summit & Beyond
• Glacier Helicopter Tour
• Chilkoot Horseback
• Glacier Point Wilderness Safari
• Wildlife Safari & Bear Viewing
• Things to Do in Skagway
• Ketchikan Tours
• Deluxe Misty Fjords National Monument
• Mahoney Falls Extended Tour
• Trolley Tour
• George Inlet Lodge Crab Feast
• Bering Sea Crab Fishermen's Tour
• Things to Do in Ketchikan
• Icy Strait Point Tours
• Whale Watching
• Wildlife & Bear Search
• Stream Fishing
• Things to Do in Icy Strait
• Sitka Tours
• Premium Scenic Tour
• Sitka Sound Kayak Adventure
• Whale Watching Tour
• Things to Do in Sitka
• Things to Do

HAINES TOURS & SHORE EXCURSIONS

All Tours (10)

Animal & Wildlife (4)

Hiking & Guided Hikes (1)

Kayaking and Canoe (4)

Rafting and Float (2)

Good for Kids Adventuresome Favorite/Top Tour Good for Families Historical ADA Accessible Roundtrip Transportation Historical Includes Food Reset All Filters

Haines Chilkoot Lake Wildlife Kayak Tour

$155 / person

Break away from the crowds for some unforgettable kayaking in a true naturalist's paradise: Haines, Alaska. Set out towards the Chilkoot Late State Park for your relaxing kayaking trip will leave you with a most memorable ex READ MORE...

Haines Wilderness Kayak Adventure

$149 / person

Adventure to the tranquil waters of Chilkoot Lake where Alaskan nature shows off its grandeur. Snow-capped peaks, glaciers, flowing rivers, and abundant wildlife make for a thrilling sea kayak excursion with your professiona READ MORE...

Haines Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve Rafting Tour

Treat yourself to a small group rafting and scenic driving tour through the famous Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve on this tour. You'll be immersed in nature throughout the day, taking in the local wildlife and scenery while lear READ MORE...

Haines Chilkoot Canoe Wildlife Safari

$193 / person

Discover the gorgeous Chilkoot Lake and be amazed at Alaska's striking beauty. Enjoy the time on the water for about 1.5 hours, take photos, and search for wildlife in the inlets and coves on this magnificent canoe adventure. READ MORE...

Haines Chilkoot Lake Wildlife Viewing Tour

$104 / person

Leave the crowds behind and visit Chilkoot Lake State Park in Haines for the ultimate wildlife viewing experience. Your experienced tour guide will take you for a relaxing ride through the park, pointing out wildlife, local f READ MORE...

Haines Inside Passage Kayaking Tour

$186 / person

Escape to the tidal waters of Southeast Alaska's Inside Passage for pristine views. Guided by trained naturalists, explore beautiful coves and islands in the Chilkat Inlet. Prior kayaking experience is not required and newc READ MORE...

Haines Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve Float Tour

$165 / person

Sail smoothly through the heart of the world famous Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. The preserve encompasses 48,000 acres of some of Alaska's most spectacular scenery; dedicated to preserving the habitat of the largest concentra READ MORE...

Haines Private Chilkat Photography Tour

$241 / person

Take an adventure off the Chilkat Peninsula into the beautiful Chilkat Valley. Bring your cameras to make your vision come alive. Whether you are a novice or a pro, your expert photographer guide can assist you in capturing t READ MORE...

Haines Mount Riley Hike

$175 / person

Ascend over 1500 feet of elevation on this adventurous Haines hike. Travel 5-8 miles through pristine forest with fantastic views from the top. A challenging and rewarding hike with scenic views you won't want to miss. Mt Ri READ MORE...

Haines Chilkat River Jet Boat Tour

$248 / person

Where the road ends, your adventure begins! Experience the true wilderness that Alaska is famous for on our narrated river tour in the heart of the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve which explores miles of tributaries of the stunni READ MORE...

More in Haines

Why alaska shore excursions.

• Free Cancellation
• Secure Payments
• Best Price Guarantee
• On Time Ship Return Guarantee
• Alaska Tour Experts
• Chat & Phone Support

Best Haines Tours & Excursions

• Chilkoot Lake Wildlife Viewing Tour
• Wilderness Kayak Adventure
• Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve Float Tour
• Mount Riley Hike
• Chilkoot Lake Wildlife Kayak Tour

About Haines

Best haines excursions & tours:, 1. haines jet boat adventure & city highlights, 2. chilkoot lake wildlife kayak tour, 3. chilkat bald eagle preserve rafting tour, 4. haines chilkoot canoe wildlife safari excursion, 5. chilkoot lake wildlife viewing tour, 6. haines alpine atv full day excursion, 7. chilkat inlet coastal hike, 8. mount riley hike, haines shore excursions by locals.

We are a local Alaska company that aims to bring you the best tours and experiences that Haines has to offer. When you buy Haines shore excursions on your own, instead of through a cruise ship, we can offer you wholesale, local Alaska prices. Our goal is to make your Alaskan cruise the trip of a lifetime!

What are the best tours in Haines?

The best tours in Haines are:

• Jet Boat Adventure & City Highlights Tour
• Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve Rafting Tour

What type of wildlife can I find in Haines?

You can often find bald eagles, harbor seals, and brown bears along our Haines tours. In August, pink salmon begin their run of the Cholkoot River to spawn. Our wildlife kayaking tour is popular among guests.

• Copyright 2024 Alaska Shore Excursions

• Schedule & Rates
• Boat and Crew
• eBike Haines!

Fjord Express to Juneau, Haines, Skagway

The top wildlife and whale watching boat tour out of haines and skagway., day trips, one-way, overnight(s), start your booking.

Searching Availability...

Fast Ferry and sightseeing boat tour between Haines , Skagway and Juneau Alaska that includes whale watching on every round trip cruise! Tours depart daily from Haines and Skagway. Our boat tour is the perfect way to visit and tour Juneau, Alaska

Day Cruise Package - 2024 Depart Skagway 8:00am Depart Haines 8:30am Arrive Juneau 11:30am Depart Juneau 4:30pm Arrive Haines 7:30pm Arrive Skagway 8:15pm - Adults: $189 - Children: $169 $165 one-way

Great ride!

We loved this trip! Such a great way to see the area between Skagway and Juneau. The boat ride was lovely, food tasty (and local!), and whales plentiful! 3 hours in Juneau was just enough time to see the downtown, have some lunch, and get back on the boat. We were lucky enough to have seen both humpback and Orcas. Highly recommend this trip. – Megan

34 years in business cruising the waters of Lynn Canal Serving the Independent Traveler

Whale watch wedding elopement.

Elope By Boat Gather your friends and family and set sail for an intimate wedding at sea aboard the M/V Fjordland, a 65’, state of the art luxury catamaran. Cast off the lines, the worry, the work and leave the details to...

What animal has the longest arms in the world?

  The Humpback Whale!  The humpback whale's common name comes from the shape of its dorsal (back) fin and the way it looks when the animal is diving. Its scientific name, Megaptera, means, "large-winged" and refers to its long, white, wing-like flippers that are...

Is Alaska Open Yet?

ALASKA!! THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Get your sleep now..... so when the state opens up... you can play ALL NIGHT LONG.

Click here to BOOK or learn more about our Yukoner Special .

Sea kayaking -a day on the Fjord -Haines Alaska

• A lunch of locally harvested smoked salmon and other locally sourced food items
• All equipment including kayak, paddle, PFD, safety equipment, rain gear and water shoes provided
• Private transportation
• Guide Gratuity
• SEAK Expeditions, 144 2nd Ave, Haines, AK 99827, USA We meet travelers at the Port Chilkoot Cruise Ship Dock or SEAK Expeditions LLC headquarters, 2nd ave Haines, AK 99827
• Not wheelchair accessible
• Not recommended for travelers with back problems
• Not recommended for pregnant travelers
• No heart problems or other serious medical conditions
• Travelers should have a moderate physical fitness level
• If conditions on the fjord dont allow safe operation of the tour we will move to a back up location on Chilkoot Lake
• Persons greater than 260 pounds in weight and 6'7" in height may not fit comfortably in the kayaks
• This experience requires good weather. If it’s canceled due to poor weather, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund
• This tour/activity will have a maximum of 8 travelers
• For a full refund, cancel at least 24 hours in advance of the start date of the experience.

• 971robbe 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Amazing Alaska Experience Joe was extremely patient and easy to work with from the time we first contacted him, through multiple rescheduling episodes (covid, etc.), and throughout our trip several years after we first made contact. His knowledge and experience were excellent as he helped personalize our trip and adjust for weather. We initially had planned a 4 day/3 night kayaking/camping trip on the Fjord, but as an atmospheric river threatened to cancel our trip, he helped us adjust to a day of paddling on Chilkoot lake and 3 days/2 nights of kayaking/camping/hiking/fishing on the Fjord. Our guide helped us become comfortable kayaking, helped make an outstanding camping trip including cooking excellent meals. Joe was also very helpful helping us connect with other business and services in Haines during our stay. He and his guide went above and beyond to make our trip amazing. With Joe and our guide's help, we felt like we were in a postcard for a week. Incredible. Read more Written March 1, 2024
• lillyp320 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles 7 day sea kayaking trip out of Haines with SEAK - they are the best! SEAK led our 7-day kayaking trip out of Haines. This was our first overnight sea kayaking trip and given the dates that worked with our schedule, we were the only two folks on our trip (along with our phenomenal guide – Beth). Joe and SEAK were nothing but phenomenal through the entire process – starting with coordinating our itinerary. He was responsive throughout our planning process and worked with us to select an itinerary that was best for our capabilities and gave us a chance to appreciate Southeast Alaska and its beauty. We were also grateful that he worked with us on tips for travel to Haines from Juneau, and he even picked us up from the ferry! Our time on the water was spectacular. Our guide Beth was world-class and so great to be around and learn from every day. She was so well-versed not only on kayaking and camping, but also the area and its history. We paddled a lot over 5 days (two days were rest days/non-paddling days for weather and made for great hiking days!). By the end we felt so much more confident in the kayak and fell in love with the area. The meals were awesome, and ending each night with a fire while enjoying the day’s work was really phenomenal. We can’t say enough good things about SEAK and Joe’s team. Haines is an awesome town and it’s the perfect place to see Alaska in the way it’s meant to be seen. Read more Written January 15, 2024
• chrishR1893OQ 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Adventure kayaking out of Haines, AK Amazing guides on an amazing journey in an amazing place! My wife and I led a group of 15 teenagers on an adventure trip to Alaska, the pinnacle of which was kayaking out of Haines, AK for a 7 day trip. Joe was very flexible and helpful in planning our adventure with us, and was even flexible when ferry schedules changed within a couple weeks of our arrival. The SEAK team took care of us from the Haines ferry landing, gear and provisions, and a great group of guides to make our trip perfect! Weather didn't cooperate with us for the journey we had designed with such a large group of inexperienced kayakers, but ponytail Beth, other Beth, and Bill, our guides, stayed positive, were agile and committed to providing a learning adventure for our group. Kayaking skills, hikes, campfires and good times surrounded by the beautiful but damp and windy AK wilderness! Tents, sleeping bags, pads, and all the kayaking gear was provided, and were all in great shape, much of it brand new. Three meals a day prepared for such a large group was always timely and enjoyed by all! There was that cream cheese on tuna fish salad incident...accidental brilliance! I would absolutely recommend SEAK Expeditions for your kayaking adventures! Read more Written January 4, 2024
• bradleyf900 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles SEAK Delivers Perfect couple of days with SEAK! Joe picked us up day 1 at the airport and dropped us off at a trail head for a great hike up Mount Rapinski. Day two was all about experiencing Alaska for a pack raft on the Klehini River. Awesome experience for land locked individuals. Day three Joe called an audible due to the winds and we ended up kayaking on Chilikoot Lake. We had a personal guide for two days on the water to experience Alaska from a different locals perspective. Absolutely awesome! After three great days of fun, adventure and sight seeing, Joe dropped us off at the airport for our return flight. Read more Written January 4, 2024
• fcortes147 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Custom 4D/3N Kayak Trip Seak Expeditions organized us a custom trip along the Chilkat River back in May which turned out amazing. Very well organized and professional. They ensured we had all the right equipment to kayak and spend 3 nights at new campsites each time. We also got the chance to do some hikes near the camps we set up. Joe was a great communicator while we set up the custom itinerary since my schedule was not so flexible. Overall, it was a great expedition. Read more Written January 4, 2024
• LMyhre 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Excellent Trip We had a great 3-day kayak trip with SEAK Expeditions. They took excellent care of us four women in our 60s and 70s and provided all the kayaking and camping gear, so we didn’t have to haul any of it with us on the ferry. Our guide, Liz, was a complete joy! She kept us safe and comfortable. They accommodated our various dietary needs without any hesitation and provided healthy, nutritious, and delicious meals with more than enough to eat. I would definitely do a trip with them again if I make it back to SE Alaska! Read more Written January 3, 2024
• Q7726BUmarkh 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Kayaking the Chilkat River Our group of seven friends did a full day kayak float down the Chilkat river with SEAK in early August. It was fantastic. Our guides were professional and quite competent. Their focus was safety first, given the water flow and temperature. We appreciated that greatly, not being very experienced with kayaking. The float was scenic and exhilarating. We floated through an Eagle preserve and the guides pointed out where to look to see those magnificent birds. I would go again on any of their adventures and feel safe and entertained in an adventurous way. Read more Written January 3, 2024
• rondadfox 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Excellent Adventure Our experience with SEAK Expeditions was excellent. Our guide, Liz and the owner, Joe were exceptional. We would highly recommend a trip with SEAK! Read more Written January 3, 2024
• L6077MMtheresaw 0 contributions 1.0 of 5 bubbles Misleading itinerary and false advertisement on back country Alsek river guided week-long trip I made the mistake of trusting this tour company to guide me through the Lost Coast of Alaska for a week-long ‘rafting’ trip. When we arrived, the owner switched the guide last minute without advanced notice. He admitted that neither he nor the new guide had ever been to the Lost Coast but could ‘figure it out when we get there’. They also skipped the Alsek River raft without telling us because the new guide realized that we couldn’t make the whole trip in just one week. The name of the trip was ‘Alsek Rive Raft Tour’ so we were extremely disappointed in that decision.. and the lack of communication about the decision. They planned the trip on 50yr old maps, that were extremely inaccurate. The rivers had been dried up for at least 20 years, based on the size of trees growing where we were supposed to be rafting. We were required to hike the beach for over 30+ miles carrying 50lb packs in the sand. We were supposed to be carrying those packs in the rafts…. Since our guide had never been on this trip, he occasionally didn’t know when and where to go. He ended up relying on local land owners for land access and their kindness to pass through their land. None of this was pre-planned by the owner. Despite the false advertisement and misleading experience, the tour company owner refused to change the itinerary to reflect the actual trip afterward. Extremely disappointing. This company is fine for 1/2 day kayak trips but don’t trust it for anything else. Read more Written November 28, 2023
• Quest04633041610 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Amazing trip! We had a great time kayaking on Chilkoot Lake! Our guide Joe was very knowledgeable and friendly. The tour group sizes are on the smaller size, which was very nice. We saw a lot of salmon and were told it is not uncommon to see bears on the shore, but we did not see any that day. The lake itself was gorgeous and we are so glad we were able to go on this tour! Read more Written August 17, 2023
• cynthiadP9021TI 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Great day on the water! This was a great small group tour. Joe was knowledgeable, balanced our group well despite differing experience levels, and made it a very fun day. The kayaking was peaceful in a stunning spot; it was a completely different experience being so close to the water. Highly recommend! Read more Written August 9, 2023
• judithbI776TU 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Great scenery and very knowledgeable guides Beautiful lake and views of the surrounding mountains. Our guides were great and provided great commentary and conversation. Read more Written August 8, 2023
• 139vytautasa 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Joyful and interesting kayaking experience in Haines Very well organised tour with comprehensive guiding through all adventure. Young lady guide (sorry don’t remember Her name) told us Haines history, showed best spots during bus transfer and kayaking experience was very interesting and fun. Read more Written August 6, 2023
• WKmonica 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Expeditions Extraordinaire! SEAK Expeditions took us out on Chilkoot Lake for an amazing trip in well-fitted kayaks. Joe is incredibly knowledgable about water sports, the Alaskan outback, and has decades of experience. We were in excellent hands and felt very safe. He's also just an all around easy-going, good guy. We will absolutely use SEAK Expeditions again and would highly recommend them to adventurers of all ages and levels. Read more Written July 22, 2023
• Amy S 0 contributions 5.0 of 5 bubbles Loved my Kayak experience on Chilkoot lake! I went on a kayak trip with Joe ( the owner) on an amazing trip on Chilkoot lake. He took the time to explain everything and outfitted us with top of the line gear. His caring disposition and the love of Alaska really was evident. His knowledge of the area was a bonus. I highly recommend Joe and SEAK tours if you happen to find yourself in beautiful Haines AK. ♥️ . Read more Written July 21, 2023

More to explore in Haines

Sea kayaking -a day on the Fjord -Haines Alaska provided by seak expeditions

• Winter Vacations
• Northern Lights
• Railroad Vacations
• Self Drive Vacations
• Alaska Cruise Vacations
• Guided Bus Vacations
• Lodge Stays
• Summer in Alaska
• All Day Tours
• Alaska’s Cities
• National Parks
• Alaska’s Regions
• Arctic Circle
• Bear Viewing
• Day Cruises
• Dog Sledding
• Flightseeing
• Outdoor Adventures
• Glacier Tours
• River Rafting
• Sightseeing
• Sport Fishing
• Whale Watching
• First Time Visitors
• Stories from Alaska
• Booking Policies

Haines Day Trips & Outdoor Adventures

Home » Tours » City-Based Day Tours » Haines

Located on the pristine western shores of Lynn Canal on Alaska’s northern Inside Passage , America’s longest fjord, Haines is home to 1,700 year-round residents. Here you’ll find a perfectly distilled sampling of Alaska’s history, scenic beauty, wildlife, arts and culture. The village was named Haines in honor of Mrs. F. E. Haines, secretary of the Presbyterian home mission board, who had raised funds for the mission. In 1904, Fort William Seward played a key role in the construction of the Haines and Alaska Highways during World War II. The historic buildings in Haines are now private homes, hotels, bed & breakfast lodgings and shops.

Unfortunately, we are unable to offer day tours in Haines in 2023. Please consider some of our other City Based Day Tours .

Apologies, there are currently no tours available. Please expand your search.

Privacy & Cookies: This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this website, you agree to their use. For more info, read our Privacy Policy Accept & Hide This site uses cookies. Click here to accept.

• All content
• Rural Alaska
• Crime & Courts
• Alaska Legislature
• ADN Politics Podcast
• National Opinions
• Letters to the Editor
• Nation/World
• Film and TV
• Outdoors/Adventure
• High School Sports
• UAA Athletics
• Food and Drink
• Visual Stories
• Alaska Journal of Commerce (Opens in new window)
• The Arctic Sounder
• The Bristol Bay Times
• Legal Notices (Opens in new window)
• Peak 2 Peak Events (Opens in new window)
• Educator of the Year (Opens in new window)
• Celebrating Nurses (Opens in new window)
• Top 40 Under 40 (Opens in new window)
• Alaska Spelling Bee (Opens in new window)
• Alaska Craft Brew Festival
• Best of Alaska
• Spring Career Fair (Opens in new window)
• Achievement in Business
• Youth Summit Awards
• Puffin Charter Giveaway
• White Raven Photo Contest - Voting
• Teacher of the Month
• 2024 Alaska Summer Camps Guide (Opens in new window)
• 2024 Graduation (Opens in new window)
• Alaska Visitors Guide 2023 (Opens in new window)
• 2023 Best of Alaska (Opens in new window)
• Alaska Health Care (Opens in new window)
• Merry Merchant Munch (Opens in new window)
• On the Move AK (Opens in new window)
• Senior Living in Alaska (Opens in new window)
• Youth Summit Awards (Opens in new window)
• Alaska Visitors Guide
• ADN Store (Opens in new window)
• Classifieds (Opens in new window)
• Jobs (Opens in new window)
• Place an Ad (Opens in new window)
• Customer Service
• Sponsored Content
• Real Estate/Open Houses (Opens in new window)

Sea change: Alaska’s marine highway navigates an uncertain future

Special report: federal funding has brought hope to the state’s ferries. but years of financial troubles, political fights and worker shortages complicate the system’s recovery..

A spotlight of the state ferry Kennicott assists the crew as it approaches Wrangell late February 23, 2024. (Marc Lester / ADN)

First of two parts

KETCHIKAN — Minutes after the M/V Kennicott pulled away from its terminal in the Tongass Narrows on a late February journey up the Inside Passage, emergency lights flickered on, barely visible under a bright winter sun. Seasoned travelers on the Alaska marine highway exchanged wary looks as the ferry slowed.

Disruptions are increasingly common on Alaska’s aging fleet of ferries. Six decades after the Alaska Marine Highway System launched its first vessels and became a vital transportation link, it’s beset by worker shortages, financial troubles, political fights and an uncertain future. Today, it operates just six ferries, down from its high of 11 a decade ago. Ridership has fallen off steeply.

At its peak, the state’s publicly owned ferries carried upward of 400,000 Alaskans and visitors each year. Many in coastal communities in Southeast and Southwest Alaska boarded to get groceries, travel to medical appointments, visit family and participate in sports. Last year, the system served just over 180,000 passengers.

A lounge of the state ferry Kennicott had plenty of empty seats as it departed Ketchikan for points north on February 23, 2024. Ferry ridership has declined steeply in the last decade. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Confidence has shifted. A 2019 proposal by Gov. Mike Dunleavy to cut the ferry budget from $140 million to $44 million still reverberates. While that proposal never came to fruition, Alaskans who reside in coastal communities were forced to imagine a world in which the ferry — which in many cases had carried them to Alaska and was a fixture of their lives — was no longer there.

Then came the COVID-19 pandemic that bottomed out ridership in 2020 to less than a third of what it had been the prior year.

“It was one of those sinking dread feelings that was always there in the pit of your stomach,” said Robert Venables, executive director of Southeast Conference, a regional economic development group. “You watched the system get older and older and maintenance deferred, and new vessels delayed, and schedules driven by whatever budget was available.”

Now, the Alaska Marine Highway System may finally be at a turning point.

The federal infrastructure bill , passed in 2021, was a conveniently timed lifeline. The multiyear package could replace the dollars the state had stopped spending on operations and maintenance, and provide the necessary funding for constructing several new ferries.

The Kennicott, docked in Sitka. (Marc Lester / ADN)

So far, Alaska has been promised more than $400 million for ferry system operations and construction, with more on the way, through ferry funding programs that U.S. Sen. Lisa Murkowski pushed to include in the infrastructure bill.

But problems remain significant. The federal funding has not eliminated the annual political fights over paying for operations, nor the built-in divide between coastal communities who see the system as their highway, and Alaskans in other parts of the state who sometimes treat the ferries as an unprofitable luxury.

Even with the promise of new vessels — ones less likely to break down and disrupt schedules — some residents in coastal Alaska feel burned by a system that has left many of them stuck, with a car on one island and a home on another, or unable to make it to their destination in time for the start of a new job, an important family get-together, or a critical medical appointment.

From a system that relied mostly on state dollars for its operation since its inception, it has transitioned into one that is paid for as much by the federal government as by the state. To receive federal funding, the state must apply for grants and in some cases pitch in with its own dollars to receive support.

Aurah Landau stitches while riding the Kennicott. Landau is a former spokesperson for the Alaska Marine Highway System. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Alaska faces persistent uncertainty by relying on federal funds to operate the state service. This year, the state banked on $66 million in federal operating funds. But the state was given only $38 million, leaving a $13 million shortfall after accounting for some federal funds left over from the previous year.

In 2025, the state is banking on $76 million in federal operating funds, which are already baked into the budget plan despite the fact that the state has yet to receive the funds.

[Read part 2: Federal funding makes a new Alaska state ferry possible — but not guaranteed ]

Alaska House members have agreed — for now — to add $20 million in state funds to the coming year’s budget draft to account for smaller-than-expected federal operating grants. But the funding isn’t guaranteed. When the Legislature approved similar funding last year, Dunleavy used his veto pen to cut the amount in half.

Murkowski said federal funding can be as hard to project as state budgets are in Juneau.

“I can’t, as an appropriator, predict to you what we’re going to see two fiscal years from now,” she said. “So what the state needs to do, is they need to put in place a system that they — the state — have invested in.”

‘Aging severely’

The ferry Kennicott travels through fog and light snow as it approaches Petersburg in February. (Marc Lester / ADN)

On the Kennicott, Capt. Josh McGrath assured passengers that an engine problem was under investigation. Three hours after the ferry had dropped anchor 3 miles from the Ketchikan pier, the ferry was sailing again, its malfunction repaired.

Bill and Julianne Luce rode north from Bellingham, Washington, with their dog Snow White. Bill, a retired Alaska National Guardsman and teacher in rural Alaska, and his wife, Julianne, a school librarian, maintain homes in Wasilla, Montana and Kodiak Island. They ride Alaska ferries frequently as they shuttle between them.

The reduction in ferry service has made it harder. Gone are the cross-Gulf of Alaska journeys to Whittier, necessitating a 15-hour drive through Canada and the Interior from Haines to the Matanuska-Susitna Borough.

“For years, I would rent a U-Haul in the Valley, drive it to Homer and put it on the ferry, get off in Kodiak, and save an entire ton of money because the building supplies in Kodiak are so expensive,” said Bill Luce. “I am concerned about the future.”

“The fleet is aging severely. I know it’s all about money, but I think it’s something that’s a need for a lot of people,” he added.

Chief Mate Tom Turner works in the bridge of the Kennicott as it navigates narrows near Sitka. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Kennicott ferry passengers Hannah Fletcher and Chris Hixon work on a puzzle as the ship nears Juneau. The couple, both active duty members of the Air Force, scheduled their cross-country move to Anchorage based in part on the Alaska ferry schedule. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Passengers on that February sailing also included a retired couple from Sitka who had purchased a van in the Lower 48 that they planned to build out for a summer road trip; a Haines high school basketball team; a couple of Air Force pilots relocating to their new duty station in Anchorage; and a state trooper moving from Juneau to Wrangell with her husband, two young children, and German shepherd.

“When you’re on an island, you pretty much rely on the ferry system to get from community to community. We wouldn’t be able to take our truck on an airplane,” said Alisha Seward, a trooper who has worked in Kodiak, Anchor Point and Soldotna. “If you don’t live in one of these small communities, you don’t realize how the ferry plays an important role.”

Like other representatives of ferry-dependent communities, Rep. Dan Ortiz of Ketchikan detects a double standard.

“They expect it to be maintained and they expect it to be snowplowed when snowplowing is required. Those are expectations that we seem to take for granted in relation to our roads,” said Ortiz, an independent lawmaker who caucuses with Democrats in the minority.

“For us in coastal Alaska, we don’t understand why people don’t see that same expectation to happen for our highway system.”

[From 2019: For Cordova, a winter without ferry service and heavy questions about the future ]

Others see a lack of understanding within the Legislature. At a House finance subcommittee meeting in February, Kodiak’s Rep. Louise Stutes took issue with Big Lake Rep. Kevin McCabe’s characterization of the ferry system as “losing money.”

“The ferry isn’t expected to make money, nor are our highways expected to make money. This is our highway, and it’s going to require maintenance,” said Stutes, a Republican.

Alaska Marine Highway System ferries, including, from left, the Columbia, LeConte and Tazlina, dock for maintenance at the Vigor shipyard in Ketchikan. (Marc Lester / ADN)

‘An afterthought’

Starting a decade ago, the number of riders declined steadily, from 319,000 to 52,000 at the height of the pandemic in 2020.

The system has taken hit after hit as a result of years of leadership change and budget shortfalls — forcing the state to sell off vessels, delay the construction of new ones, and cut back on the number of runs.

Ketchikan residents have felt the difference. Kelly Smith, Ketchikan High School’s activities director, grew up on Prince of Wales Island. He said there were periods when he would ride the ferry every week for cross-country running competitions.

“The ferry was the primary transportation,” he said. “We could always get on ferries — you could leave on a Thursday, get to Juneau by your game Friday, jump back on a ferry Sunday, back in school Monday.”

Kelly Smith, activities director for Ketchikan High School, said the infrequent service of the ferry system prevents it from being an option for student travel in most cases. He tended to the floor before a home basketball game in February. (Marc Lester / ADN)

The Ketchikan boys basketball team gets hyped up before the start of a home game on February 22, 2024. In most cases, teams must fly to participate in high school sports. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Now, Ketchikan sees one ferry stop per week, making it untenable for students to use without missing several days of classes. High school students in Ketchikan and neighboring Southeast communities ride the ferry about once per season, Smith said, if the schedule happens to work out just right or when a special ferry run is added for a school tournament. Most of the time, it just doesn’t pencil out.

Several years ago, Southeast schools calculated they collectively pay $1.4 million annually to Alaska Airlines. The hefty cost means that teams must organize regular fundraisers in order to compete against other schools. Fielding a team for a single away-game can cost more than $10,000 in airfare.

“Using the ferry right now — because it has been so frustrating and it hasn’t worked out — it’s been kind of an afterthought,” said Smith.

Crew members handle lines on the bow of the Kennicott. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Charlotte Glover, owner of Parnassus Books in Ketchikan, once relied on the ferry run to Prince Rupert, in British Columbia, as a connection to the mainland and the road system that could take her to other towns or all the way to the Lower 48.

The return of regular service to Prince Rupert is unlikely in the years to come because it requires a vessel that meets international standards. For residents of Ketchikan and those hoping to save money on the move up to Alaska, the loss of the service is a significant blow, and one that makes it harder to move to Alaska — for a summer or a lifetime.

“It’s like a death in the family,” said Glover, who moved to Alaska 32 years ago on a ferry.

“I don’t think we’ve ever felt so stuck here,” she said.

‘Not pretty’

The Alaska Marine Highway System was formed in tandem with statehood. In the early 1960s, Alaska voters had approved bond packages to build four ferries — the Malaspina, the Matanuska and the Taku, followed by the Tustumena.

The Malaspina, which once connected Southeast communities to Washington state, was sold in 2021 to Alaska businessman John Binkley for less than $130,000 and now sits moored in Ketchikan, where it serves as housing.

The Matanuska has been moored in the Ketchikan shipyard for more than a year after asbestos was found during annual work in 2022. Its fate unknown, it now serves as a floating “hotel” for ferry workers while its hull is assessed to calculate the cost of repairs.

The Taku was sold in 2018 to a Dubai-based company for around $170,000, and later recycled for scraps.

The Tustumena carries on, sailing from Homer to Kodiak, then down the Aleutian Chain to Unalaska and back, multiple times per year. But its years are numbered. Federal dollars are set to cover its replacement.

“When it was first built in the ‘60s, long before oil money, long before the state had the resources that we had, we were able to put in place a system that worked for the region, and how we get back to that, I think, is a good challenge for us. And it’s one that we all ought to take up as Alaskans,” said Murkowski.

The ferry Columbia is dry docked for maintenance at the Vigor shipyard in Ketchikan. Four state ferries were docked there in February. (Marc Lester / ADN)

The state ferry Columbia is dry docked in Ketchikan. The vessel is 418 feet long and 85 feet wide. (Marc Lester / ADN)

In February, several of the fleet’s vessels were tied up in Ketchikan for maintenance and repairs, including the Tazlina, the LeConte and the Columbia.

Gabe Baylous, the captain of the Tazlina, has been living on the Matanuska in Ketchikan. The Tazlina is one of the fleet’s newest ships, but it is limited because it lacks the crew quarters needed to facilitate longer travel, and many of the communities that the ferry was meant to serve still don’t have compatible docks. Projects to add crew quarters and build new ferry docks in several communities are set to take place in the coming years, funded by the federal infrastructure bill.

Baylous grew up in Southeast Alaska and started as a cadet on the Malaspina in 2004 — at a time when working for the ferry system meant the promise of a guaranteed pension and regular sailings to different parts of the state.

Now, he watches crew members come and go, with no prospect of a pension to keep them and the possibility of higher wages in the shipping industry to lure them away. Having so many ships tied up for much of the year also means that newer crew members take longer to get the necessary hours at sea to meet their qualification requirements.

“It’s always optimistic when there’s more money,” he said. “I hope we right-size the system.”

Gabe Baylous, captain of the ferry Tazlina, said he’s optimistic that federal funding might help “right-size” the Marine Highway System. (Marc Lester / ADN)

As of March, the ferry system had vacancies for 26 engineers to run all seven possible vessels. The system also had 27 openings for officers with full pilotage, which requires the ability to draw marine charts from memory.

In Ketchikan, the crews of the Columbia, Matanuska, LeConte and Tazlina work 9-to-5 tending to the lines, fixing engines, assessing thickness of the steel hulls and making sure that when the time comes, the vessels can return to their schedules.

The four operating vessels in the system offer no room for redundancy. Any malfunction could mean canceled voyages with no chance for another vessel to pick up the slack.

“It’s pretty tight. We’re managing to get people moved around, but it’s not pretty,” said Kerri Traudt, the ferry scheduler, explaining why it’s hard to add runs for special events during a recent ferry operations board meeting. “I’d like to be everything to everybody, but at some point, something’s got to give.”

Passengers tend to their dogs on the car deck of the Kennicott. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Passengers wait to depart as the Kennicott as it approaches Petersburg. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Ask coastal Alaska residents about what it would take to return the Alaska Marine Highway System to its former glory, and you’ll get an array of responses. For some, it’s bringing back the cross-Gulf sailings that connect Whittier — and Anchorage, the state’s biggest city — to Southeast Alaska and the Lower 48; many long for the return of service to Prince Rupert and a portal to the Canadian road system; and for others, it’s the addition of a ferry run per week that would make quick half-week trips from one community to another possible.

“We just don’t have extra boats in the fleet to have that luxury to be covering everything, everywhere,” Alaska Marine Highway System Director Craig Tornga told lawmakers in March.

‘A bathtub curve’

The engine room on the LeConte — which for five decades has plied Southeast waters — is a windowless cavern where every piece serves a purpose. During the LeConte’s extended shipyard period this year, every piston and cylinder in the engine room was replaced. Eric Downer, chief engineer on the LeConte, said an engine overhaul is needed for every 30,000 hours of operation, which equates to about a decade on the LeConte. This is likely the ship’s last engine overhaul.

“We probably won’t get 30,000 hours out of them again,” said Downer.

“The best way to explain boats is a bathtub curve,” he added. “So you’ve got a brand new boat and you’ve got lots of problems. And then it goes nice and flat. And then, as it gets older, you’ve got lots of problems again.”

Mechanic Ronnie Giroir sprays diesel fuel to clean engine parts on the ferry LeConte during its maintenance in Ketchikan. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Crew members like Downer are charged with keeping vessels running, but they have no control over the critical question: When is it time to retire a ship and replace it with a new one?

“It’s not that they’re bad boats, it’s just that they’re old boats. Like an older car — you’ve got to put money in it,” said Downer.

McGrath, the Kennicott’s captain, said malfunctions are happening more often as the vessels age.

“It makes my job harder because you have to deal with the consequences of equipment breaking,” said McGrath.

Snow-dusted peaks reflect in the calm waters of a passage near Sitka. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Josh McGrath, captain of the Kennicott, second from left, oversees navigation through narrows near Sitka. (Marc Lester / ADN)

On the ship’s bridge, McGrath oversaw a laser-focused crew as it navigated narrow waters near Sitka. In a maze of islands, spruce trees loomed large and nearby rocky shores under turquoise water betrayed the tight confines of the route. The beauty is undeniable, but any mistake could lead to a repair that will cost millions. In the distance, humpback whales broke the calm surface of the water, their tails making appearances below Mount Edgecumbe. Overnight snow still covered the treetops.

Time moves differently on the ferry. On an airplane trip, a two-hour delay would be maddening. On the Kennicott, two hours were a blip, and one eased by the options of a bar, an impressive collection of puzzles, a 24/7 espresso machine, ample spots to stretch out and nap, and the availability of clean restrooms, showers and even a washer and dryer.

By the time the Kennicott arrived in Juneau the next day, Captain McGrath had made up for time lost to the malfunction near Ketchikan. Under northern lights and the Big Dipper mirroring a state flag painted onto the stack, the Kennicott would be on its way up the Lynn Canal before daybreak.

The northern lights glow over Auke Bay as the Kennicott approaches Juneau. (Marc Lester / ADN)

Next: Federal funding makes a new Alaska state ferry possible — but there are no guarantees .

Iris Samuels

Iris Samuels is a reporter for the Anchorage Daily News focusing on state politics. She previously covered Montana for The AP and Report for America and wrote for the Kodiak Daily Mirror. Contact her at [email protected].

Most read by subscribers

A historical guide to name origins for anchorage’s major roads: part 1.

Tlingit and Haida went to Denver to reclaim their cultural objects. They left empty-handed — and continue to fight.

Alaska Native Medical Center begins expansion of emergency department amid growing pains

Troubled state-backed seafood company says it will lease out 2 plants, and could sell its assets

‘Looking inside my brain’: 40 years of Ray Troll’s inspiration and imagination captured in new book