wilderness travel pilgrims way

Pilgrim's Way

Burgos, Spain

$4,595/person

Book this tour through our partner: Wilderness Travel

Wilderness Travel is an award-winning leader in adventure travel, renowned for superb itinerary design, high-value, and the best Trip Leaders in the bus...

Additional Information

Be part of a thousand-year-old pilgrimage—the Camino de Santiago—across a landscape alive with legends. Our specially designed journey showcases the very best landscapes and villages along this famous trail—and we bring you all the way to Finisterre, mythical Kilometer 0 on the trail, to make the traditional barefoot walk on the beach, as pilgrims have done for centuries. En route we are welcomed in our carefully selected hotels, including two nights at the acclaimed Parador dos Reis Católicos in Santiago. Our expert Trip Leaders bring the history and heritage of the Camino alive with every step. Buen camino!

Days 1-2 Burgos / Léon / Astorga  Meeting in medieval Burgos, we join other pilgrims to hike the Camino de Santiago from Hornillos del Camino to the remote village of Hontanas. A journey across the sun-splashed plains of Castile brings us to the engaging city of Léon, and we explore its soaring Gothic cathedral before heading to the walled city of Astorga. 

Days 3-5 Cruz de Hierro / O Cebreiro / Portomarín  Entering beautiful Galicia, we enjoy interactions with fellow pilgrims as we hike to the Cruz de Hierro, the iron cross where for a thousand years, pilgrims have left a stone from home to make a wish (be sure to bring yours!). In mountaintop O Cebreiro, we visit a small church whose chalice is linked in legend with the Holy Grail. Some of the most spectacular stretches of the entire pilgrim trail are on our hike to the whitewashed village of Portomarín.

Days 6-9 Galician Countryside / Santiago de Compostela / Finisterre  Following trails through hamlets and farms flanked by ancient grain silos, we arrive in Santiago, where we explore the extraordinary limestone cathedral said to contain the remains of St. James and attend the noon mass with a jostling crowd of pilgrims from around the world. We complete our pilgrimage with a hike to Finisterre, following tradition by walking the last part of the trail barefoot along the beach. Depart on Day 9.

HIGHLIGHTS ¯ With decades of experience on the Camino, we have honed this itinerary to perfection! ¯ Complete the final hike at Finisterre, walking the sands barefoot in true pilgrim tradition ¯ Enjoy Trip Leaders who ensure the traditions of the Camino are very much a part of your journey ¯ Stay in historic hotels, including the 5-star Parador dos Reis Católicos, a 15th century monastery in Santiago's main square

DETAILS ¯ 9-day trip begins in Burgos and ends in Santiago de Compostela ¯ 8 nights inns, manor houses, and paradors ¯ All meals included except 1 dinner

DATES                  Apr 24-May 2, 2020 May 5-13 May 15-23 May 26-Jun 3 Jun 5-13 Sep 4-12 Sep 8-16 Sep 15-23 Sep 22-30 Oct 2-10

TRIP COST $4595 (10-15 members) $5095 (4-9 members) Single supplement: $480

TRIP LEVEL    7 hiking days on easy to moderate trails, some steep sections, 3-8 hours a day, van support

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Pilgrim's Way Reviews

Santiago de Compostela, Spain

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The Pilgrims Way North Wales: Explore Ancient Trails

The Pilgrims Way spans over 130 miles, inviting walkers to explore tiny stone churches nestled amidst the hills, providing shelter and respite just as they did in ancient times. Experience the rejuvenating power of pilgrimage – modern day pilgrims describe it as a time to reset, reflect and reconnect with nature.

Embark on a journey through North Wales, where centuries of history and natural beauty await along the Pilgrim’s Way, stretching from Basingwerk Abbey to Bardsey Island, where pilgrims have found solace for over a millennium.

Follow in the footsteps of St Cadfan, who established a Christian community on Bardsey 1,500 years ago and experience the enduring sense of sacredness that still draws pilgrims today, connecting ancient churches dedicated to saints of the 6th century which offer a glimpse into the region’s rich spiritual heritage.

Start your journey at Basingwerk Abbey, once a haven for medieval pilgrims en route to Holywell. From there, traverse woodlands, cross rivers and ascend mountains, encountering picturesque villages and beautiful coastal views along the way.

Encounter ancient relics like the Maen Achwyfan cross and stone circles in the Conwy valley, prompting contemplation of life’s mysteries. As you journey, immerse yourself in the beauty of the Welsh landscape, from rolling hills to majestic waterfalls and then reach the pinnacle of your pilgrimage with a voyage to Bardsey Island, where the tranquil shores offer a sense of peace that lingers long after your return home.

Whether you walk the entire route in two weeks or explore it one day at a time, the Pilgrim’s Way promises a profound and unforgettable experience. Discover the hidden treasures of Wales, from its religious landmarks to its diverse wildlife , and let the beauty of the landscape inspire you on your journey of self-discovery.

The Pilgrims Way Route

The Pilgrims Way is approximately 135 miles /218 km in length. These are “map miles” and do not take into account ascents and descents. I’ve split the route up into 13 sections, depending on your fitness levels you can break it down further or combine the sections so you can plan a walk of 10 to 17 days.

Basingwerk Abbey to Maen Achwyfan Distance: 6.3 miles/10.2 kms

Maen Achwyfan to Llanasa Distance: 5.1 miles/8.2 kms

Llanasa to Tremeirchion Distance: 8.4 miles/13.5 kms

Tremeirchion to Llannefydd Distance: 9.8 miles/15.7 kms

Llannefydd to Gwytherin Distance: 11.5 miles/18.5 kms

Gwytherin to Llangernyw Distance: 5.9 miles/9.5 kms

Llangernyw to Penmaenmawr (Stone Circles) Distance: 11.9 miles/19.1 kms

Penmaenmawr (Stone Circles) to Bangor Distance: 19.93 miles (32.08 km)

Bangor to Waunfawr Distance: 15.1 miles/24.3 kms

Waunfawr to Clynnog Fawr Distance: 11.3 miles/18.2 kms

Clynnog Fawr to Nefyn Distance: 10.3 miles/16.6 kms

Nefyn to Aberdaron Distance: 18.1 miles/29.1 kms

Planning your Pilgrims Way Walk

Accommodation and Backpacking

While wild camping is generally not permitted in Wales, the route offers various accommodation options, including B&Bs, guesthouses, hotels and hostels. You can typically find suitable lodging along the Pilgrims Way either or nearby. Many providers offer transportation to and from the route for a fee. You’ll only need to carry a packed lunch, snacks and drinks on your walk as most accommodations provide bedding and towels. Ensure your clothing is suitable for varying weather conditions, with waterproof gear and sturdy boots being essential.

Packing Essentials

Pack your belongings wisely, using waterproof covers or liners for your rucksack and separating clothing into waterproof bags. A rucksack with a capacity of 30 – 40 litres should do the job and remember, the larger the bag, the more you’re likely to carry.

Accommodations typically provide bedding, but bunkhouses and hostels may offer sleeping bags for a fee. Remember to bring toiletries, including a small first aid kit containing essentials like painkillers, plasters, antiseptic cream, and insect repellent. If you plan on doing the walk during the summer months make sure to pack some sun cream.

By considering these factors and planning ahead, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable journey along the North Wales Pilgrim’s Way.

The Pilgrims Way Map

Highlights of the pilgrims way.

Discover fascinating sites along or near the Pilgrim’s Way, each offering a unique glimpse into Wales’ rich history. Many locations feature QR codes so you can access them on your phones when you visit.

Here’s a snapshot of some of the highlights:

Basingwerk Abbey : Explore the ruins of this 13th-century abbey.

Greenfield Heritage Park : Delve into the 18th-century industrial heritage of this site.

St. Winefride’s Well : Visit the 7th-century shrine at this sacred site.

Maen Achwyfan : Encounter the mysterious stone cross at this enigmatic location.

St. Asaph Cathedral : Marvel at this 11th-century cathedral’s architecture and history.

Llansannan : Immerse yourself in the vibrant Welsh village atmosphere.

Hafodunos : Admire the hall designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott and discover sculptures along the Pilgrim’s Way.

Llangernyw : Visit the parish church housing Wales’ oldest yew tree.

Rowen : Explore the picturesque village nestled in the Conwy Valley.

Stone Circles at Cefn Coch Penmaenmawr : Discover ancient stone circles overlooking Penmaenmawr.

Bangor Cathedral : Pay homage to St Deiniol at this historic cathedral.

Llanberis : Experience outdoor adventures in this former slate village.

Bardsey Island : Conclude your journey at this mystical island with a rich spiritual history.

Taking A Break

As the Pilgrim’s Way winds through remote areas, planning a day off requires a bit of thought due to limited transport options in some places.

Here are some suggestions for you to relax and explore:

Gwytherin : Visit the village where St Winefride resided, steeped in legend and pilgrimage traditions. Explore ancient sites like Penbryn Chapel and immerse yourself in the area’s mystical atmosphere.

Eglwysbach and Rowen: Relax in the picturesque Conwy Valley, with opportunities for leisurely walks and exploring charming villages. Nearby attractions include Conwy’s medieval walls , Bettws y Coed’s outdoor adventures and Bodnant Gardens.

Penmaenmawr, Llanfairfechan and Abergwyngregin: Take a day to stroll along the coast, visit nature reserves, or explore nearby towns like Llandudno . Enjoy the scenic beauty and diverse attractions of this coastal stretch.

Bangor: Discover the city’s historic cathedral and vibrant university scene. Explore nearby landmarks like Penrhyn Castle and Plas Newydd, or venture to Caernarfon Castle via regular bus services.

Llanberis: Ascend Snowdon or explore the Slate Museum and Electric Mountain. Enjoy outdoor activities in the National Park or visit nearby towns like Betws y Coed and Capel Curig.

Waunfawr: Experience the Welsh Highland Railway or embark on scenic walks. Explore nearby attractions like Caernarfon and Porthmadog , accessible via regular bus services.

Penygroes: Discover a former slate quarry village with its own vineyard. Take circular walks exploring quarry paths or venture to nearby towns like Caernarfon and Criccieth.

Clynnog Fawr and Trefor: Explore prehistoric settlements and enjoy scenic walks. Use Trefor as a base to explore nearby attractions like Tre’r Castell and the Llŷn Peninsula.

Nefyn, Morfa Nefyn and Tudweiliog: Use these towns as a gateway to explore the Llŷn Peninsula’s natural beauty and historic sites, including the Llŷn Pilgrims Trail.

Aberdaron: Relax on the beach or hike around the headland for stunning views. Explore local attractions like Becws Islyn bakery, Porth y Swnt museum, and St Hywyn’s church.

Discover the Heart of North Wales

Experience the essence of North Wales along The Pilgrims Way. From quaint villages to historic landmarks, this journey offers a glimpse into the region’s captivating heritage. Start your adventure and embrace the simplicity and beauty of North Wales at every turn.

Nick, your trusted guide to Wales travel and exploration, shares a deep passion for this enchanting land. With years of exploration, Nick offers expert insights into the best of Wales. Join him on a journey through its captivating history, culture, and hidden gems, as he inspires you to create unforgettable Welsh travel experiences.

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Kyoto, the Shima Peninsula, and Japan's Sacred Kumano Kodo

Shinto shrines, pearl divers, and pilgrim trails.

From $9,995

Easy to Moderate

Call 1-800-368-2794 or contact us for any questions

Arrive: Osaka, Japan

Depart: Osaka, Japan

• Meet Kyoto's traditional artisans, dine with a geisha
• Explore the ancient pilgrim trails of the Kumano Kodo
• Visit the sacred Shinto shrines of the Shima Peninsula
• Meet the traditional female pearl divers of the Shima Peninsula
• Enjoy several overnights in traditional ryokans

In the rural town of Shigaraki, we visit a 5th generation indigo artisan, then continue to the Miho Museum, an architectural wonder designed by I. M. Pei. We also visit a small town known for shigaraki yaki , a ceramic style recognized as one of Japan's “six ancient kilns.” Our private dinner in Kyoto with a geisha illuminates an ancient Japanese tradition of hospitality.

Dates & Pricing

Pricing below is per person and based on double occupancy. The earlier you book, the more choice you’ll have. WT also has the most generous cancellation and transfer policies in the industry, we make it easy if you change your mind. Have a small group of your own? Take over an existing date or choose your own. You’ll have your own private guide–and the adventure–all to yourselves!

Payment & Cancel Schedule

$600 due at time of reservation 90 days prior to departure: Balance

Cancellation & Transfer Schedule

Up to 91 days prior to departure: No Charge! 61-90 days prior to departure: 25% of trip cost 46-60 days prior to departure: 50% of trip cost 45 days or less: 100% of trip cost

• Expert leadership of a Wilderness Travel Trip Leader and local guides
• Accommodations in ryokans and hotels
• All meals included except lunches and 1 dinner as indicated in Detailed Itinerary
• All ground transportation and baggage handling from meeting until departure
• All activities as indicated in Detailed Itinerary

Not Included

• Travel to and from the arrival and departure location as indicated in Detailed Itinerary
• Additional hotel nights outside the trip's scheduled dates
• Optional gratuities to Trip Leaders or staff
• Optional travel insurance
• Other expenses of a personal nature (some alcoholic beverages, laundry, etc.)

Accommodations

Scroll through our signature accommodations for this trip below. Although it is highly unlikely, we may make substitutions when necessary.

Kyoto, Japan

Days 1-4 (4 nights)

Hanayashiki Ukifune-en

Day 5 (1 night)

Hotel Nikko Nara

Nara, Japan

Days 6-7 (2 nights)

Toba International Hotel

Toba, Japan

Days 8-9 (2 nights)

Alternate Accomodation: Ryoso Uminochou

Hotel Urashima

Katsuura, Japan

Days 10-11 (2 nights)

Fujiya Ryokan

Kawayu Onsen, Japan

Day 12 (1 night)

Trip Leaders

Wilderness Travel Trip Leaders have a passion and a joy for creating an unforgettable journey. We are extremely proud of them and the incredible travel experiences they make possible. For more information, including client comments about them and which specific trips they will be leading, please click on their profiles below.

Lucy Whitehead

What the Trip is Like

We make the most of our time in Japan. After rising and eating breakfast, we leave our ryokan for a walking tour. Daily mini-lectures by our Trip Leader help provide insights into the past and future, the history, politics, geography, and food of Japan. On some days, we visit temples and shrines, and other days, we follow the pathways of the shoguns or visit sites of breathtaking natural beauty. We ride the subways and buses, but we do most of our sightseeing on foot.

Although not physically demanding, the trip will yield greater rewards if you are in good physical condition and able to stay on your feet for 6-7 hours per day. There is much to see, and a fair amount of walking is necessary to take it all in—and you will find there are many steps to climb! Japan is a land of staircases and hills and you will enjoy the trip more if you are dressed comfortably and are in good physical condition. Please remember we will be sleeping on futons and eating at floor level, so it is important that you are able to sit down on, and get up off, the floor without much difficulty.

Japan is a blend of the traditional and modern, and our trip encompasses this unique mixture. We will stay at traditional ryokans as well as Japanese-style hotels. The quiet world of the ryokan is a venerable cultural institution—a way to experience a simple, timeless way of life. After being warmly welcomed, we trade our street shoes for slippers. Once inside, we remove our slippers as we step onto the finely woven tatami mats covering our sleeping room floors. Our rooms are spacious and pleasant with low tables and comfortable futon mattresses with quilts and blankets. Ryokans have double rooms (singles are sometimes possible). Some of our rooms will have attached toilets; at other times, we share the "down the hall" facilities. Although a few ryokans have western baths in the rooms, most have an ofuro (a Japanese-style bath).

Normally, a fresh cotton yukata (robe) is provided for each guest. These light kimonos can be worn anywhere in and around the ryokan and we often wear them to meals (make sure to wear the left side over the right). For many of our breakfasts and dinners, beautifully presented meals are served as we sit on the floor at low tables on our tatami mats.

A highlight of any visit to Japan is its superb cuisine defined by fresh ingredients and artful presentation. We will have ample opportunity to sample both familiar and new dishes. We will sample many types of Japanese food, and usually the first "bite" is with our eyes, the presentation being a tantalizing array of fresh fish, beef, vegetables, tofu, miso soup and, of course, rice, all served on individual plates and bowls of exquisite sizes, patterns, and proportions. We eat with chopsticks and are usually seated at low tables on the floor. At some ryokans, you may choose between a Japanese breakfast of fish, rice, miso soup, tofu, vegetables, pickled condiments and tea, or a western breakfast consisting of eggs, toast, salad, and coffee. Many places, however, offer only Japanese food.

During our stays in major cities, you will have some dinners and all lunches on your own, allowing you ample opportunity to sample the endless variety of Japanese food. When we are traveling, we may try an obento (box lunch), and we sample the snack foods of Japan and/or get a bowl of udon, ramen or soba noodles at one of the local spots. We often eat lunch at noodle shops, sushi bars and small neighborhood lunch spots, avoiding the infamous high-priced meals of Japan. Napkins are not used except at western-style restaurants; bring your own handkerchief.

Keep in mind that Japanese food is very different from what we are used to, and with the limited availability of American foods, your food intake will be a big part of the Japanese adventure. Please note that vegetarian options are available, but limited. Strict vegetarian diets, vegan diets, or gluten reduced diets will be difficult to accommodate due to the pervasiveness of the fish-based stock dashi and the use of soy sauce and miso in Japanese cuisine. Gluten free cuisine will not be available.

Japanese Bathing

In Japan, bathing is a time-honored tradition, a relaxing daily event. While staying in our ryokans, we will bathe as the Japanese do—using the ofuro system. In separate men and women's sides, the custom is to wash and rinse before entering the ofuro, a large tub of hot water where we can sit back with legs extended, submerged to the neck (this trip is not for the very modest!). Early Shinto was a religion of cleanliness and purification. Ritualistic bathing began during this time and has been perfected over the centuries. Either as a divine imperative or a luxury, bathing in Japan has always been regarded as more than a hygienic chore. The ofuro is the perfect way to finish a hectic day of travel. After a relaxing bath, we gather for the evening meal.

Client Testimonials

"Outstanding trip! Diverse itinerary, great introduction to Japanese artisans, very, very good look at the shrines, hiking trails, and seafaring traditions of this fascinating part of Japan."

San Antonio, TX

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Book your trip today

Our Area Specialists know every detail about our tours. They will be happy to answer any questions and help you choose the journey that’s right for you. Contact us to learn more or book your trip today!

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Trip Levels

With more than 200 different adventures to choose from, we want to help you find the trip that’s right for you. Our Trip Level system ranks each trip in two ways: a number rating from 1 to 6 according to the activity, and general travel rigors. 1 is the easiest and 6+ the most difficult—see descriptions below for explanations of each number. A plus (+) sign means the trip is a bit more strenuous than other trips of that level. The detailed explanation of each trip—below the bar with the number rating—is perhaps more important, specifying activities, altitudes, hiking, and travel conditions. The Detailed Itinerary, available by download or mail, gives further information. Our Area Managers can also answer questions and guide you to the trip that best suits your interests.

Level 1 – Easiest

Non-camping journeys, optional walks, little elevation gain or loss.

• Royal Rajasthan and Villages of India
• Small ship cruises

Level 2 – Easy to Moderate

Hotel nights and/or safari-style camping, hikes of two to four hours on some days. Other physical activities are sometimes included, such as optional sea kayaking.

• Our African safaris
• Costa Rica Wildlife

Level 3 – Moderate

Half- to full-day hikes (3-6 hours) over rolling countryside on most days, occasional steep trails. Many of our hotel-based walking tours are in this category, as are our snorkeling adventures.

• Tuscany & the Cinque Terre
• Argentina: Hikes and Estancias of Patagonia
• Palau Snorkeling & Sea Kayaking
• Some trips with minimal hiking but rugged travel conditions or long drives, such as  Tribal Ghana, Togo & Benin,  are Trip Level 3.

Level 4 – Moderate to Strenuous

Full-day hikes (4-6 hours), mountainous terrain, significant elevation gains and losses (hiking up or down as much as 3,000 feet) on many days. Altitudes no greater than about 10,000 feet.

• Ultimate Patagonia
• Hiking the Spanish Pyrenees

Level 5 – Strenuous

Full-day hikes (4-8 hours), mountainous, steep terrain (hiking up or down as much as 3,500 feet) on many days. Trips with hiking at average altitudes of 10,000 to 12,000 feet are in this category.

• Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
• Everest Lodge to Lodge

Level 6 – Very Strenuous

Full-day hikes (5-8 hours), mountainous, steep terrain (hiking up or down as much as 3,500 feet) on many days. Most hikes take place at altitudes above 10,000 feet, with some days ascending as high as 18,000 feet.

• Everest Base Camp
• Climb Kilimanjaro!

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Pilgrim's Wilderness: A True Story of Faith and Madness on the Alaska Frontier Paperback – July 15, 2014

Purchase options and add-ons.

• Print length 336 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Crown
• Publication date July 15, 2014
• Dimensions 5.16 x 0.89 x 7.95 inches
• ISBN-10 0307587835
• ISBN-13 978-0307587831
• See all details

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About the author, excerpt. © reprinted by permission. all rights reserved., product details.

• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Crown; Reprint edition (July 15, 2014)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 336 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0307587835
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0307587831
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 9.8 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.16 x 0.89 x 7.95 inches
• #1,084 in Criminology (Books)
• #1,151 in Crime & Criminal Biographies
• #5,123 in U.S. State & Local History

About the author

Tom Kizzia is the author of Cold Mountain Path, the social and environmental history of a ghost town, for which he was named 2022 Historian of the Year by the Alaska Historical Society. He wrote the 2013 bestseller Pilgrim’s Wilderness, chosen by the New York Times as the best true crime book set in Alaska, and by Amazon in its top-ten books of the year list. His first book, the village travel narrative The Wake of the Unseen Object, was recently re-issued in the Alaska classics series of the University of Alaska Press. Tom traveled widely in rural Alaska during a 25-year career as a reporter for the Anchorage Daily News. His journalism has appeared in The New Yorker, The Washington Post, the Columbia Journalism Review, and in Best American Science and Nature Writing. He received an Artist Fellowship from the Rasmuson Foundation and was a Knight Journalism Fellow at Stanford University. A graduate of Hampshire College, he lives in Homer, Alaska, and has a place in the Wrangell Mountains outside McCarthy.

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We revel in the remoteness: wild camping and hiking in the Scottish Highlands

A five-day mindful adventure on the Knoydart peninsula – one of the last great wildernesses in the UK – offers the chance to fully unwind and leap into the unknown

I t’s a relief to lay my rucksack down, plunge hot feet into the cool stream and pause to revel in the fairytale surrounds. Foxgloves stand tall against a cornflower-blue sky, ferns look almost luminous, the water glints in the early summer sunshine. A patch of moss-covered ancient forest provides shade, a cuckoo calls in the distance, mountains layer on the horizon.

I’m in Knoydart in the Highlands of western Scotland, one of the last great wildernesses in the UK, on a hiking and wild camping adventure. No roads cross the 22,000-hectare (55,000-acres) peninsula, a rugged place where a trio of Munros soar skyward, sandwiched between sea lochs Nevis and Hourn (poetically translated as heaven and hell). Over five days our group of eight will explore this land on foot, carrying our sustenance and shelter on our backs, led by two guides from The Living Project, Josh and Emily.

The rest of the world feels very far away as we linger over lunch before continuing to Barrisdale Bay farther north. Today’s hike is about eight miles over undulating terrain. An old drover’s way leads up past a loch where Highland cattle drink and we climb a 450-metre pass before descending to the coast once more. We take our time, stopping often, sometimes chatting, sometimes walking in silence. The going gets tough at points, packs feel heavy, but a sense of freedom, a revelling in the remoteness, trumps any fatigue.

Set up in 2019 by Josh Bulpin and Cormac Davey (former colleagues at World Challenge Expeditions), the Living Project offers “mindful adventures in wild places,” with trips ranging from women-only weekends in Snowdonia to weeks in Nepal. The emphasis is on connecting to nature, not epic feats of endurance, with yoga, meditation and journal writing woven into our days.

“We combine adventure and wellbeing, giving people the chance to challenge themselves, but focus very much on the journey and moving slowly through the landscape,” says Josh. “It’s not about racing up summits.”

Our trip began two days earlier in Fort William, where we’re encouraged to ditch any excess luggage. Most equipment, from tents to cooking utensils, as well as food (fresh and dried) is provided. While you don’t need experience, with packs weighing upwards of 15kg and several hours walking a day on the itinerary, a decent level of fitness is advised. Our group consists of four guys celebrating a 40th birthday, and three women and a man, ranging from mid-30s to early 60s, travelling solo. For many of us, it’s a first multi-day hike.

Wild camping is permitted in Scotland and you could, of course, do this independently. But having everything taken care of, and knowing you’re in safe hands, makes it easy to focus on the simple challenges of hiking and the wonder of the wild surrounds.

To reach Knoydart we take a train to Mallaig from Fort William – crosssing Harry Potter-famed Glenfinnan viaduct – then a ferry across to Inverie, the only settlement on the peninsula, home to around 120 people. After pitching tents on the shore at Long Beach, where mirror-flat water reflects the pinks and blues of the sky, we walk to the Lookout seafood restaurant for dinner.

The next day dawns clear and bright for the hike to Barrisdale. After gentle yoga on the beach, Emily shares the first daily question to ponder as we walk (“Why am I here?”), and we set off into the wilderness. Soon we pass a hilltop monument to the notorious former landowner and Nazi sympathiser Lord Brocket; today much of Knoydart is community-owned after a buyout in 1999.

Our camp for the night is next to the bothy at Barrisdale Bay. We wash in the river and prepare dinner alfresco, chopping fresh veg and halloumi as the setting sun washes everything gold.

Our trip coincides with a heatwave in Scotland – and routes are always adapted to suit the weather and group needs. So, given soaring temperatures, we spend the next day exploring locally, pack-free, instead of moving on. Maps are pored over and soon Josh and Emily have a plan – a path neither of them have walked before.

We wind our way up the hillside, rising to open views over Loch Hourn. Further on we’re delighted to discover a series of waterfalls and plunge pools and spend a magical couple of hours clambering over rocks and dipping into crystal waters – a welcome respite from the heat. A thunderstorm soaks us on the hike home, its sudden power adding to the wildness of the day. That evening we cook in the bothy kitchen – an escape from the rain and the midges which plague us at sunset and sunrise (it’s June and the weather has made it a bumper midge year).

The next morning we pack up early and head off, slowly climbing again into the hills. The landscape is staggering – and there’s no one else around. A small creature stares at me from the valley below as I stop to rest – a pine marten perhaps? Buzzards ride air thermals in the sky above. Thoughts fall away as I focus on the feeling of the sun on my face and the utter peace of the mountains.

Our final wild camp is by a loch and we paddle out through mud and reeds for a swim in silky waters. I pitch my tent a little way from the others on the sandy shore. Looking out across the water, I could be the only person around.

It’s with mixed emotions that we arrive back in Inverie after a short hike the next morning. There’s time for quiet contemplation on the beach before the boat back to Mallaig and the need to re-engage with the rest of the world. We’re a little dirty, midge-bitten and sunburnt, but relaxed and happy as we head back to civilisation and a hotel with hot showers and clean sheets.

A final slap-up supper together is lively and fun. But beneath the chatter and laughter, the stillness and expansive sense of the wild remains. I think back to Emily’s first question: “Why was I there?” To escape from the world for a bit, to slow down, to leap into the unknown, immersed in nature. Knoydart has provided all that and more – a rekindling of wonder and deep feeling of peace; something I want to cling on to for a long time.

The trip was provided by The Living Project . The next Wild Pilgrim trip to Knoydart (for women only ) runs from 2-7 June 2024 ; or on 8-13 September 2024 (for all) and costs £975 , including all food while camping , two restaurant meals , one night in a hotel , most equipment, ferry crossings and trains to and from Fort William . Train travel and accommodation in Fort William was provided by Visit Scotland .

• Highlands holidays
• Scotland holidays
• Camping holidays
• Mindfulness
• Health & wellbeing

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