safari snorkel prices

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Breathe easy and roll through rivers; Safari 4x4 off-road snorkels deliver cold, clean air to your engine.

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Safari RSPEC Snorkel SS82R

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS172HP

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS1080HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS170HF

Safari Snorkel Air Ram Grill 000135500

Safari Snorkel Air Ram Grill 000135600

Safari Snorkel Pre Cleaner PBH000253

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS420HF

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS450HP

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS1070HF

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS171HP

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS88HP

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS88HPE

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS89HP

Safari ARMAX Snorkel SS89HPE

Safari Snorkel Air Entry Hose 315-024-500

Safari Snorkel Air Entry Hose 320-024-200

Safari Snorkel Air Entry Hose 362-024-000

Safari Snorkel Pre Cleaner PBH024256

Safari Snorkel Upper Mounting Bracket 337-032-000

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS1000HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS1066HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS1130HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS1135HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS190HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS385HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS440HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS445HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS56HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS79HFZ

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS89HF

Safari VSPEC Snorkel SS983HF

Safari 4x4 Engineering is one of the longest standing names in the 4x4 industry. Dating back to 1981, Safari has been a leader in Australian made 4x4 products that are built to last in the harshest conditions on the planet.

For decades Safari 4x4 Engineering has designed and manufactured automotive snorkels and 4WD performance systems made to enhance the performance, durability and driveability of 4x4 vehicles. From the Amazon to the Andes – from the Kalahari to the Kimberley – from the Sahara to the Simpson, four wheel drivers across the globe have put their trust in genuine Safari Products. Safari engineers industry leading products through innovative design, where each product release is the result of a comprehensive research and development program. Every Safari product produces a totally engineered and thoroughly tested solution to be used by 4x4 enthusiasts all over the world. Safari’s unmatched reputation for durable and high-quality products has been built on decades of engineering excellence in the 4x4 industry.

Ultimate Protection

A minimal amount of water ingested into a diesel engine is enough to cause an engine to fail. Safari Snorkels move the air intake to a higher position to give you the ability to navigate off road conditions that involve water and dust in the vehicle’s path. The Safari Air Ram simultaneously removes the maximum volume of water from the incoming air stream with its unique water separating technology, while efficiently flowing the maximum required airflow.

As well as water, dust can be equally as damaging to your 4x4’s engine. By raising the air intake to the roof level of the vehicle, a Safari Snorkel provides cleaner air to your engine that’s free from low lying dust in the vehicle’s path. Safari Snorkels ensure the ultimate protection for your 4x4, no matter the conditions or path you are faced with

The Process

The development process begins with every vehicle being 3D Laser Scanned utilizing Safari’s Romer Absolute 3D scanning arm. This creates an exact digital model of the vehicle with scanning system tollerances within 0.08mm ensuring all Safari Snorkels provide the best fit for your vehicle. Utilizing the latest in 3D modelling software, extensive design and engineering is carried out to ensure optimum airflow and aesthetics are achieved. The next step in the process is to 3D print prototypes of the main components of the Snorkel system for trial fitment and airflow analysis.

The all new

The All New

The Safari ARMAX™ performance range of Snorkels feature:

• Designed and flow tested by our in house engineers for maximum performance.
• Development and verification in conjunction with other ARMAX™performance enhancement products.
• Safari’s water separating style Air Ram with a 4”(101.6mm) outlet and an optimised air flow, low restriction grill.
• Water tight raised air intake for ultimate engine protection against water and dust.
• Safari’s own Industrial Spec UV Stabilised Polyethylene material.
• Life Time warranty.

The V-Spec range primarily suits current model vehicles.

• Manufactured from Safari’s own Industrial Spec UV Stabilised Polyethylene material.
• Available for most popular, current model 4wd vehicles.
• Stainless steel mounting hardware & EPDM moulded rubber connection hoses to ensure the snorkel lasts the vehicle lifetime.
• Water tight raised air intake for ultimate engine protection against water and dust ingress.
• Australian Made.

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Safari Snorkels were twice awarded Best After Market Product of the Year by 4X4 Australia Magazine, and are distributed extensively in Australia and around the world. 

SAFARI AUTOMOTIVE TECHNOLOGY - ABN 75803294474

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(SAFARI AUTOMOTIVE PTY LTD 1985-2013)

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5th Gen Mods , Accessories , DIY , Expeditions , Install , Off-Road , Overland , Performance , Reviews , Trail Tested

Arb safari snorkel install & review – 5th gen 4runner.

ARB Safari Snorkel Step-By-Step Install On The 5th Gen 4Runner: Full Review & Product Overview

While the majority of 4Runners sold here in North America will sadly spend most of their miles on pavement, there are some that will see a lot of time off-road, either out of necessity or for recreation.

For those on dirt, there are certain modifications that are smart to consider to extend the life and comfort of your 4Runner. Suspension upgrades, tougher tires, bolt-on armor, etc… While all of these upgrades are valid, what upgrades are being made to protect the motor while on the trail? The motor only has a few points of entry or exit that will cause damage or wear over time: the intake and the exhaust. The exhaust side of the equation is less of a concern because it’s pushing gasses away from the motor, so let’s focus on the intake side as its job is to feed the engine with clean air.

ARB Safari Snorkel for 5th Gen 4Runner

Benefits of a snorkel.

The stock air intake on the 4Runner pulls air from the space between the inner and outer front fender on the passenger side. With the plastic fender liner installed, a good amount of dust and water will be averted from the open intake hole. But take a long trip through the dust, or ford a river and you risk a clogged air filter or worse—water in your intake box.

If you have aftermarket front fenders and no longer have the factory fender liner, you can take that risk and increase it. How do you minimize or eliminate the risk? Like many great answers to overland questions — ask the Aussies! There’s no coincidence that one thing you’ll see on many Australian vehicles who spend time off-grid is a raised intake or snorkel. Drawing clean air from a windshield height intake will help prolong your engine life, reduce filter replacement, and eliminate water intake problems. Many vehicle manufacturers offer raised intakes from the factory for overseas applications, but unfortunately, Toyota hasn’t made an option for the 4Runner, but we’re not lost.

ARB Safari Snorkel

Safari Snorkel has been one of the leaders in the snorkel aftermarket for decades and has an extensive product offering that includes our 5th Gen 4Runners. They use a UV-stable polyethylene material that has been CAD-designed for optimal fitment and airflow specific to the 4Runner. Paired with their signature Air Ram head, the snorkel is designed to work in the harshest conditions keeping dirt, debris, rain, and rivers out of your vehicle’s intake.

Find it online:

• Safari Snorkel Kit (Part #SS450HP) 5th Gen 4Runner: Check Price

Install Overview

• Safari Snorkel SS450HP
• Air Ram head
• Adapter boot
• Hole/cutting template
• Upper mounting plate
• Miscellaneous hardware

Tools and Materials

• Painter’s tape
• Permanent marker
• Marking punch
• #5 step drill bit
• Miscellaneous drill bits up to 5/16”
• Right angle drill (optional)
• Body saw (air reciprocating saw)
• 80-grit sandpaper
• Deburring tool
• Loctite Blue 242
• Rustoleum black paint
• Silicone sealant
• Rubber mallet
• Body clip tool

Step 1. Prep Surface

To start, go ahead and prep the area you’ll be working on by washing the front passenger side of the 4Runner. This will remove any contaminants and make sure you have a nice “seal” between the snorkel and the body panel when you’re all finished.

Step 2. Remove Airbox

Remove the upper half of the factory airbox loosening the 10mm clamp on the intake hose closest to the airbox, and removing the factory MAF harness from the intake. You can leave the intake hose attached to the throttle body, but put a nitrile glove over the hose to prevent any contaminants from entering the intake while you’re working.

Remove the three 12mm bolts attaching the airbox to the fender, and roll the airbox towards the firewall to gain access to the bottom of the intake wiring harness. There is one clip to undo here. Remove the lower section of the airbox.

Step 3. Remove Factory Intake Duct

While you have the airbox handy, remove the factory intake duct using a small pry tool. This is where the new adapter hose will attach later on. After removing the inlet, give the whole lower section a thorough cleaning from debris that might have been in the airbox from before. This will also allow you to have a benchmark for how well the snorkel is performing after you’ve installed it.

Step 4. Seal Factory Drain Holes

The factory airbox has two drain holes in it, one on the side that faces the front of the vehicle and one on the bottom. It’s optional, but I would recommend using silicone caulking to fill these holes to seal up the intake. This will keep your intake sealed during water crossings, but will also keep any water that goes into the snorkel (unlikely) in the intake. So if you do seal the intake, make sure you check it occasionally if you’re operating in heavy rain or snow to make sure it’s dry. Once the silicone is applied, set it aside and let it dry while you work.

Step 4. Mask Off Work Area

Next, use the painter’s tape to tape off the area of the fender that you’ll be working on. Use the template as a guide, going all the way down to the fender flare. Make sure you add some tape over the seam between the fender and flare so metal shavings don’t pile up in them when you drill. Taping the whole work area will help keep your fender from being accidentally scratched while working. It’s not a required step, but it’s a smart step to take to protect your 4Runner.

Step 5. Put Layout Over Tape

Take the template out of the box and line it up on the back of the snorkel to make sure all of the holes match up. This preventive step helps to ensure you’re not drilling the wrong holes if you were supplied the wrong template! Attach the template to the fender using painter’s tape, aligning the left edge with the door jam and the top with the top of the fender. Make sure you thoroughly tape the edges so everything lines up properly and matches the contours of the fender.

Step 6. Outline Layout

With the template installed, mark the holes with a permanent marker. Once marked, remove the template and set it aside.

Step 7. Install Studs into Snorkel

Before getting into the drilling portion of the install, grab the six 8mm studs from the hardware bag. Apply some Loctite 242 to one half of the thread on the stud, and install them into the snorkel. Doing this ahead of time will allow the Loctite to set a bit before you add the nyloc nuts during install.

Step 8. Remove Inner Fender

Remove the plastic inner fender liner from the front to the back starting with the body screws under the factory bumper working through the plastic clips and screws towards the firewall. Use a body clip tool to pry the factory clips without breaking the heads off. You’ll only need to pull the fender liner a little more than halfway down. Just far enough to be able to reach back to the rear-most mounting bolt.

Step 9. Drill Holes into Fender

Back to the outer fender… With the holes now marked take a marking punch and punch a mark in the center of each pen mark. This will help keep the drill bit centered when you begin to drill. With the center punched, take your step drill and drill the six mounting holes in the fender. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses for this task as metal in your eye will ruin your weekend install. Take your time and once the appropriate diameter has been reached, spin the bit lightly a couple more revolutions to clean up the hole edge. You’ll want to drill to 16mm, or 5/8” for the mounting holes. No turning back now!

When drilling the hole closest to the passenger door, make sure you have enough clearance behind the fender so you don’t hit the inner fender. Have someone you trust poke their head in the fender to watch while you drill. Make sure they’re wearing safety glasses as well.

Step 10. Drill Cut Start Point

With the mounting holes drilled, mark your hole for the starting point for the inlet hole. You’ll need to choose a size that’s large enough to accommodate your saw blade of choice. Make sure when you mark your hole, mark it on the INSIDE of the area to be cut and far enough from the cut line to make sure you’re not drilling into the portion of the fender you’re keeping.

Step 11. Cut Out Big Hole

After drilling the starter hole, it’s time for the main event. I would recommend taking this moment to enjoy some liquid courage as you’re about to cut a big hole in your 4Runner. Beverage consumed (and then some time to re-group), grab your body saw. I used a pneumatic reciprocating air saw for this task because it’s a precision saw that leaves a thin kerf and a very smooth finish. Use good lighting for this job to make the line more visible. Take your time, adjusting your position to get the best stability during the cut. You can use a magnet across a cut section of the hole to hold the inner piece in place when you finish your cut so it won’t fall through. Breathe easy, the hardest part is over!

Step 12. Clean Cut Holes

Use the deburring tool to remove any metal burrs from the holes you just cut/drilled. Lightly use your finger to feel the inside of the holes for burrs. On the larger intake hole, use 80-grit sandpaper to smooth off the edge of the hole, if needed. Remove the painter’s tape when you’ve finished cleaning the holes.

Step 13. Test Fit Snorkel

Take your snorkel with the studs pre-installed and line it up with the fender to check the fit with the new holes. With any luck, you’ll have a perfect fit with no adjustments needed. If your holes are off, use a die-grinder to adjust them.

Step 14. Mark Drill Holes on A-Pillar

Use this time to mark your A-pillar mounting plate. Mockup the snorkel, and look at where you’ll need to apply painter’s tape. Remove the snorkel, and apply the tape with a few inches on each side. Then reapply the snorkel with the upper plate installed to mark where the plate will be attached to the A-pillar. Use your permanent marker to mark the top, bottom, and windshield edge of the plate. Remove the snorkel and the plate from it. You’ll come back to this in a bit.

Step 15. Paint Drill Holes

With the holes cleaned up, use a Q-tip to apply a layer of paint on all bare edges of metal. This will help prevent any rust from eating away your fender underneath the snorkel. Let the paint dry while you move on to the next step.

Step 16. Drill Pilot Holes into A-Pillar

Take the upper mounting plate and realign it with the marks you made earlier. Then using your permanent marker, mark the three holes you’ll need to drill in the A-pillar. With the holes marked, use the marking punch to set the center of the holes to drill. Starting with a small drill bit (1/16”) drill a pilot hole with your right angle drill. You can use a standard drill for this, but the right angle drill will allow for more depth control when drilling. You’ll want to just break the surface with these holes, but you won’t need to worry about any airbags in the A-pillar.

Step 17. Drill Final Holes into A-Pillar

After drilling your pilot holes, you can get ready to drill the holes for the plastic clips supplied in the snorkel kit. My final hole size was 5/16” to where the clips fit snugly with a hammer tap to set them. I would recommend drilling a 9/32” hole first, checking for snugness with the clip, then widening to 5/16” if needed. You want these to be as snug as possible to help hold them in place. Remove the painter’s tape.

Step 18. De-Burr Drill Holes

With your three holes drilled, use the deburring tool to clean up your holes and paint them as you did with the holes on the fender. Let them sit for a good 10-30 minutes, depending on how warm your workspace is. I used a heat gun to help cure the paint a little quicker.

Step 19. Silicone Clips into Holes

Paint cured, grab the silicone that you used for the airbox and apply a bead around the bottom of the clip. Line it up with the hole, and use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Gently rotate the clip once it’s seated to even out the silicone at the interface. Repeat this for the other two clips. You can remove any silicone residue by lightly wiping it off with a paper towel damp with Acetone.

Step 20. Install A-Pillar Bracket

Install the upper plate with the supplied stainless steel screws by hand. Be sure to not spin too fast or the clip will start spinning. If it does, take a thin pair of pliers to lightly grip the edges of the clip while you screw in from above. Snug up all 3 screws evenly.

Step 21. Remove Stock Airbox Tabs

You’ll need to modify the stock airbox by removing the retaining and alignment tabs where the factory inlet used to be. I used a die grinder to remove the tabs as described in the instructions and smoothed them with some sandpaper to ensure a clean fit. This is where the snorkel adapter will slide onto the airbox.

Step 22. Install Intake Adapter

Set the intake adapter into the fender with the round end through the inner fender. Slide the smaller of the two hose clamps over the end sticking through the hole with the tensioning screw facing up on the forward side of the adapter. Take the lower half of the intake box and set it into place, sliding the round end of the adapter over the intake on the box. Use a little dish soap on the inside of the rubber adapter as a lubricant if needed. Reinstall the lower airbox, along with the wiring harness clips you removed at the beginning. Wait to tighten the hose clamp until after the snorkel is installed.

Step 23. Install Hose Clamps on Adapter

Take the larger of the two hose clamps and install it on the oval end of the adapter in the fender. Snug it up just enough so it doesn’t rotate on the adapter. You’ll want the tensioning screw facing down on the rearward side of the adapter. Take a small amount of dish soap and spread it on the inside of the adapter as a lubricant.

Have one of the upper bracket bolts at the ready. Bring in the snorkel and line it up with the fender, setting it into place. Reach in from underneath to massage the adapter onto the snorkel making sure it seats evenly. Then, grab your bolt and lightly thread it into one of the upper bracket holes to keep the snorkel in place while you get ready to secure it from inside the fender.

Step 24. Install Nuts and Washers

With your six washers and nyloc nuts handy, thread one of each onto the six studs inside the fender. Tighten them evenly with a ratcheting wrench, eventually getting them all snug on the fender. Once the snorkel is secured from inside the fender, add the upper mount bolts on the A-pillar and tighten them until they’re snug.

Step 25. Tighten Hose Clamps

With the snorkel fully secured, tighten the hose clamps with a 7mm socket on both the snorkel and the intake side of the adapter.

Step 26. Install Airbox

Make sure your airbox is cleaned out using a vacuum and rag, then reinstall the filter and upper half of the air box. Tighten the hose clamp (10mm) and reinstall the harness clips/plug before securing the upper airbox.

Reinstall the inner fender liner after you have cleaned out any metal shavings from the drilling using a vacuum. Use the driver’s side if you can’t remember which clips/screws go where.

Step 27. Install Air Ram

Finally, attach the Air Ram head to the top of the snorkel using the provided black hose clamp with the tensioning bolt facing back. That’s it! You’re done!

Trail Impressions

With the snorkel installed, it isn’t really noticeable from the driver’s seat. You’ll only know it’s there from the grief you get from your significant other when you pick them up from work…ask me how I know.

Aesthetically, the Safari Snorkel will change the exterior appearance of your 4Runner and may look a little out of balance if you have a mostly stock 4Runner. That being said, this is a functional upgrade, first and foremost. If the Safari Snorkel gives you what you need when you need it, who cares what it looks like. On a mild to wild build, this snorkel looks right at home with its black textured finish.

Road Impressions

On the road, there is surprisingly no increase in sound from the snorkel either from wind or intake noise. You do get some increased intake noise if you rev the engine while parked, a benefit for overland parking lot meetups…joking.

Final Thoughts

Functionally, the snorkel has been working well on the 4Runner. I’ve taken it through a number of good water holes that have been covering the trails here in Central Oregon with no water to show in the airbox. I have also driven through heavy rain and snow with the snorkel with no accumulation in the intake, which is promising. The major factor I haven’t been able to test yet is dust, which was my main reason for installing the snorkel. With winter set in here and plenty of moisture in the dirt, I won’t get a good idea for dust until later this year.

I have high hopes for this Safari Snorkel to keep my airbox clean and dry through all of the conditions that I intend to put my 4Runner through in the years to come. It’s big, burly, and built to take a beating — much like the 4Runner itself.

Max Sheehan

Freshly rooted in Central Oregon, I have always had an eye for the outdoors and the vehicles that get you there. As a gateway to the wild, I have spent weekends exploring the best that the west coast has to offer in my expedition style 4Runner.

Thank you for the great write up! I just installed my snorkel following it.

One thing that I figured out that helped was to tape over the washers holes with painters tape (the ones that go on the inside of the fender). Then poke a little starter hole in the middle of the tape to use to press the washer onto the studs. This way the washers have a little bit of friction from the tape to hold them on when pushing them onto the studs giving you all the time you need to get the nut ready.

I only needed this trick for the upper 2 left studs that are very hard to reach with large hands.

I’d welcome thoughts for the nuts. I lost 2 in the process somewhere in the fender and had to buy more. I thought about hot gluing the nut to the washer so they go on as one unit, but that was after I already lost 2 so I never tried it.

Will this install be different for the 2020? There are SRS airbags in each of the A-pillars; what’s the possibility of activating/damaging the airbag system when drilling into the passenger side pillar?

No . Air bags are behind the a piller trim on inside. There is a Chanel in between on the outside. When you drill in its does not go through to inside of vehicle

Look at Snorkel Upgrade for a pre filter.

It’s almost like you know what article is dropping soon! 😉 I’ve been very happy with the one I installed on this ARB snorkel.

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3rd Gen , Accessories , Install , Off-Road , Overland , Review

Arb safari snorkel 3rd gen tacoma review.

Alright, here we go… a mod that I probably waited too long to do. The snorkel.

Before my Tacoma, I had a 4th Gen 4Runner. That truck ran a snorkel for two, call it main reasons.

• 1. It sealed up my exposed air box (missing fender liners) and lifted the air intake to the roof line.
• 2. It looked super rad (in my opinion).

However, that snorkel was a cheap Amazon find. It was for an 80 series (I think). It worked ok. Got the job done. Didn’t sit well or really have any instructions or anything. It also needed a ton of modification. For example, I had to cut into the body to make room for the new tubing – there was no way it was going to fit any other way. The point is.. it worked, but not in a very calculated fashion.

This time, I knew what I wanted (needed). A tried and true, tested system with EVERYTHING I needed, right off the bat. And the ARB warranty and support – which has always been good to me.

Enter the ARB Safari Snorkel. Let’s run through a quick installation guide (ARB also provides one) and review.

ARB is currently sold only through retailers. I got this one from Mudify. These guys stock a ton of ARB products for fast shipping, and also have good customer service.

Find It Online

• ARB Safari Snorkel (3rd Gen Tacoma): Check Price

Table Of Contents

Why should you add a snorkel.

What Is A Snorkel?

A snorkel is a series of tubing, connections, and airways that takes the point of air intake from a lower point on the vehicle (passenger wheel well, under fender liner) and moves it closer to the roof line. The result is a sealed system that allows temporary exposure to water that may have otherwise been taken into the intake, and immediately into the motor. This would cause catastrophic failure in the form of hydro-lock. Yes, that means a new motor. Not cheap.

Think of it as cheap insurance – especially if you wheel your truck. Exposing your intake to water, especially as a newer driver, is easier than you might think. And freak accidents can happen. Investing in a snorkel is a great preventative measure.

Why Would You Want One?

I’m not going to go into anything crazy complicated here. There are a few main reasons to add a snorkel, and a few secondary reasons that I’m sure are up for debate.

First, and most obviously, as described, is moving the air intake out of harm’s way from potential water intrusion. This can protect your vehicle and decrease the likelihood of water getting into your motor. It can also allow you to risk doing deeper water crossings. This can be expanded to include dust, since the fenders are typically more exposed to dust off-road than the roof. So you are avoiding unnecessary dust intake. This can further be improved upon with a snorkel pre-cleaner.

Many would argue that a snorkel is a sort of “cold air intake” where air in the fender can potentially be warmer than the ambient air outside. I would guess this applies more to slower driving, as the air movement as you drive 50, 60, 70+ mph on the highway may negate that. However, I still think there is somewhat of a valid point here.

A different line of thinking could also suggest that since the new intake head on the snorkel is bigger than the factory opening, and that it usually faces the rushing air as you drive, that is allows the motor to “breathe” easier. Don’t quote me. I’m not saying you’re getting any true forced induction. But another idea I’ve seen discussed.

Key takeaway – snorkels have value relative to their cost to the decreased risk involved with off-road and overland travel. With some secondary effects. Pretty simple.

This is all reinforced the harder you wheel, and the more water/dust you see. And a snorkel is especially useful if you lose your fender liners like I did, when I trimmed my fenders/flare for tire clearance.

Installation

Install is not as bad at you might think. The right tools are important. You should have a good understanding of hand tools. But there is some room for error when it comes to cutting and drilling. Just move carefully, and really make sure everything lines up. Check it ten times if you have too. Worst case – you can buy a new fender. But we don’t want to do that. So use this guide and take your time.

ARB also gives you detailed instructions.

Required Tools

• Mechanic’s toolset
• Drill + bits
• Cutting tool (jig saw, or similar)
• Dremel (or some kind of smaller saw/cutting tool)
• Screwdrivers
• Utility knife
• Painter’s tape
• Double-sided exterior automotive molding tape (optional)

Step 1. Remove Air Box

To start, I’ve seen people get really into removing extra components. Wiring, separating the top of the airbox from the intake, etc.

While you can do that for peace of mind, there is plenty of slack to work with, and you should be able to save some time.

Unclip and open the airbox. Pull out your filter. Check to see if it needs replacing.

Next, take out the bottom portion of the airbox. There are three screws total. Two are pictured here. One is to the left of the box.

Step 2. Remove Air Inlet & Trim Air Box

Once you have the airbox out, remove the inlet, seen in the picture above on the bottom. You can dispose of this.

You will need to trim the mounting tabs for the inlet you just removed. I used a Dremel. Simple and easy. Final cuts seen above.

Step 3. Apply Template & Mark Holes

Now apply the provided template to your passenger’s side fender. Make sure that all the lines are evenly matched to the ends of the fender.

Carefully tape it into place. Second set of hands here is nice.

Take a marker and mark all the holes.

Step 4. Drill & Cut Holes

Now drill the holes. Use a step bit, or step up your drill bit size for a clean hole. I used two drill bits to make the smaller holes.

I also make a hole in the larger circle with enough room to get my jigsaw into. Then I made the entire cut. This helps to make it look cleaner.

You don’t have to use a handheld jigsaw, but it is quick and easy.

DO NOT use a hole saw here. It’s a terrible mistake and you will do damage.

Clean up any burrs. I also used a Q-tip dipped in a small cup of some black spray paint to protect the bare metal on all my cuts. I would not skip this step.

Step 5. Install & Secure Flexible Tube

It’s important to note, if you don’t have an aftermarket bumper or cut fenders/flares like I do, you will need to remove your liner beforehand. There are several clips and a few screws to pop the liner out.

Once the liner is removed, take the large rubber connector tube and insert it through the factory intake inlet hole. There is a notch on the tubing so you understand its orientation. A good reference photo is seen above.

A shot from the inside of the engine bay. Make sure to put the hose clamp on before you reinstall the airbox.

Attach the airbox to the new intake tubing. This can be tedious. Install the tube before you secure the airbox again.

The hose clamp might give you a hard time. Make sure it is sitting in the groove on the tube all the way around. You will have to feel around to make sure. This is crucial because you need a good seal here.

Once that is done, you can reattach the airbox, and reassemble the filter, cover, etc.

Step 7. Prepare Snorkel Body

Prepare the snorkel body with blue thread locker and the threaded studs.

This is another key step. Above you can see the bracket that ARB wants you to bolt to the snorkel, and rivet to the A-pillar.

I chose to use double sided exterior 3M automotive tape. I found it at my local auto parts store. Added a piece along the bracket, and trimmed to fit.

Not necessarily recommended, and not that I am afraid to drill into my truck, I did not want to this time and wanted to test this alternative.

Note:  This fitment works okay. I could have done a better job lining it all up with the truck, but there is some movement above 30-40 mpg and at highway speeds. I’m not currently bothered, but know that this is a risk. You can always go back and add rivets. You can’t undo drilling the holes and placing rivets as easily. I do think I could get it a little tighter though, and get less movement – the tape could have better contact.

Step 8. Attach Snorkel Body To Fender

Take your snorkel body and align with the holes. Depending on how well you did, it may slide right in. It may not. You might need to drill out some of the smaller holes. This did happen to me, but no big deal. Only a small delay.

Eventually, with a little physical persuasion (lol), we got it all to line up nicely. Don’t panic if it doesn’t work the first time. Again, some margin for error here.

Obviously be mindful that you also need to get the plastic intake end to meet the new tube. Another set of hands will help here.

Take all the washers and nuts and tighten the snorkel down to the fender.

Add the other hose clamp to the connection between the new tubing and snorkel body.

Bam! Almost there.

Step 9. Mount Snorkel Head

Finally, take the snorkel head and the black clamp, and attach the snorkel appropriately to the body. That’s it! Not so bad.

Finished Install

I love it! I’ve done this before, and become more comfortable with cutting trucks. But even with documentation, this was pretty straightforward and we were able to move along.

A quick close up shot of the 3M tape and bracket. It attaches relatively well, but again, the contact could be better. I could easily redo the tape though. We will see.

The real question…? Have I crossed any super deep water? The answer… Not yet! However, I don’t need to submerge the truck under a huge amount of water to note that this system fits great, seals really well, and will do the job when expected to.

I’ve used a snorkel before, and I can tell you that I certainly felt better on the occasions where we were wheeling along, many states from home, and unexpectedly dropped into a deeper than anticipated river. The same goes for nights where we saw flooding and I accidentally hit massive pools of water late at night, that could have ended badly.

The fit and finish is awesome. ARB stands behind their products. And to top it off, I absolutely love how it looks. How could you go wrong?

Final Thoughts

Bottom line? Protect your engines. Invest in a snorkel if you plan on wheeling and adventuring hard to remote places.

I’m stoked with how this turned out – no complaints whatsoever. Let me know if you have any questions!

Konrad Chojnowski

Nothing like a day on the trails and a night under the stars! I'll drive just about anywhere to disconnect and have a rad experience.

Self tapping stainless screws and RTV on the pillar. Honestly will you ever remove your snorkel? If you do you have to replace your fender and filling two small holes and blending in your fender to match the door and pillar you would paint anyway is not a big deal. Best to have a secure fitment so nothing vibrates loose or rubs paint away leading to rust. Last note, deburr all the holes. Installing a cyclone greatly improves dust performance otherwise you are literally scooping it up. Sure, the intake is higher and helps but it’s really not effective without. …  Read more »

You’re not wrong about mounting the snorkel directly. And as I mentioned, I’m not opposed to drilling into my truck. I was in part experimenting with this alternative, since I know many people have had the same idea. I agree with what you are saying in general. I did mention under the photo about painting the holes to remove all burrs. A pre-cleaner surely helps to eliminate the majority of dust exposure. But the idea of getting less dust is considering that there is much more dust at wheel/fender level than there is at the roof line. I can say …  Read more »

It might be worth noting that snorkels aren’t as useful for fording water in the Tacoma as many think without additional and extensive modifications in the engine bay. The Tacoma (and most Toyota trucks) have a critical [and incurable] design flaw for water fording, which is the location of the alternator below/at the level of the top of the tire. Adding a snorkel to the Tacoma to put your intake at six feet high (or thereabout) without extensive waterproofing to the engine, and carrying a spare alternator for the almost certain contamination of bearings and destruction of most of the …  Read more »

Man. A lot to unpackage here, haha. To start, while I understand the textbook logic behind this answer, the real-world application is a bit different and may relay the wrong message to someone reading it. You absolutely can ford water in a Tacoma, relatively safely (albeit there is always risk) despite the concerns you mentioned. I’ll explain why. While the alternator (and other components) may be exposed, the only time that this will be a concern is if the vehicle (unfortunately) gets stuck in the water and there is no motion. With the proper technical approach, even if the water …  Read more »

Right! And I don’t disagree with what you say here. To be clear, I’m not saying that crossing water deeper than your alternator will damage it immediately and in the moment; I’m saying: (a) that could happen, and (b) the damage will be there and will more likely manifest over the longer-term. As in, you submerge a bunch of unprotected electrical connections and your spinning alternator, it will diminish the life of your alternator and other components in ways most users will not understand is connected to a prior decision to float their Tacoma/Toyota truck. Notice how many caveats there …  Read more »

Totally. I think we are on the same page. We certainly want to present as much information as possible. Only so much that I can put into a quick install and review without losing the user in the technicalities. Ultimately, we should cover this to every length possible under – “everything you need to know” – like everyone else, I invite you to write a post for us. I think you would be a good fit for this post and other technical ones. Shoot me an email! We pay for this kind of stuff. [email protected] The only thing I want …  Read more »

Now you have me thinking a snorkel would have been a good investment for my last build. I was on the fence about weather to snorkel or not. This article has opened my eyes to things never considered before. With the amount of snow runoff this year a snorkel would almost be an essential element for river crossings. I’m not sure if the new build would benefit from one though. Going a different direction this time. Thanks again for expanding my knowledge of useful Tacoma products. Great site, really enjoy it

I would say that anyone who spends any time near dust or water could benefit. Ultimately, it’s for peace of mind and insurance in case something happens. I’d be lying if I didn’t account for the looks too, haha. Thanks for commenting and being involved!

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Safari Snorkels

• Toyota LandCruiser 300 Series (2021 – Present)
• LC300 | Safari Snorkels

The Safari Snorkel is the ultimate protection against water, dust and snow ingress. The Safari Snorkel delivers cool, clean air to your 300 Series LandCruiser’s engine.

Utilising Safari‘s traditional design concepts and incorporating the very latest in scanning and CAD design software, Safari‘s V-SPEC Snorkels are ready to perform in the most extreme environments.

Fully designed and manufactured in Australia, tested and verified on a custom flow bench to ensure the airflow meets or exceeds the factory inlet design. The Safari Snorkel offers the best air intake protection and performance for today’s 4wd vehicles.

Clever Design

Safari’s Air Ram system is a pivotal and functional attribute of the snorkel; CAD and lab tested, the Air Ram is designed to simultaneously remove the maximum volume of water from the incoming air stream, while delivering the maximum airflow to your vehicle’s engine. 

Durable Materials

Safari snorkels utilise a UV stable polyethylene body which ensures a strong and robust fitting to the outside of your 4×4, complemented by high-grade stainless steel and plated hardware for corrosion resistance on all internal and external fittings and fixtures. All Safari connection ducting is custom designed and tooled and is manufactured from EPDM moulded rubber, rated to a continual 130°C operating temperature. There is nothing better!

Vehicle Specific

Nothing fits like Safari. As a result of the intricate design process, working with a combination of CAD modelling and actual vehicles, Safari snorkels are manufactured to integrate seamlessly. Where other products might look similar, none are developed with such attention to detail from the air-box back to the Air Ram to work perfectly with your vehicle.

Safari Snorkel Features

Reduces dust intake in Outback conditions

Safari snorkels are ideal for convoy driving where severe dust can have a detrimental effect on your engine’s performance.

Protects Your Engine From Water

Keep your engine dry and your 4WD moving during water crossings, Safari snorkels reduce the likelihood of engine damage.

Pre Cleaner Compatible

Safari snorkels are fully compatible with optional 7″ or 10″ pre cleaners on some models.

Maintains Fresh Air For Your Engine

High flow air ducting and body ensures air supply is in excess of engine requirements.

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Safari Snorkel AIR RAM - 3.5 inch (4X4 Off-Road Vehicles)

Purchase options and add-ons, about this item.

• Air ram mounts on top of the 3 1/2 inch down-pipe of your snorkel kit.
• Retaining Clip provided.
• The Safari air ram ensures optimum airflow, dust protection, and water/air separation.
• Ensures the best engine protection possible.

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Product Description

Need a replacement snorkel air ram for your snorkel? Or building a custom snorkel for your truck? This air ram mounts on the 3.5 inch down-pipe of the snorkel kit. The Safari air ram ensures optimum airflow, dust protection, water/air separation and most importantly, ensures the best engine protection possible.

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Clean, new, fully facilities with cheap... - Safari Hostel

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• Safari Hostel

Clean, new, fully facilities with cheap price.

The location is 10 minutes walking to Kremkin and bear the metro but the entrace to the hostel is a little bit dark in the night. The room is clean, plenty of bathroom and also clean. Reading light and plug for every bed. Kitchen and common room is combined and looking good with fully facilities. 100 rubles for laundry. Nice staff. The Cheapest 8 bed room is only 440 rb.

• Cleanliness

• Room service

It was a surprise to us that probably the cheapest hostel in Moscow is located in the center of the old city of Moscow. Moscow is a really expensive city, so the hostel where you can cook and it is not far away, is a priceless treasure. Less than a mile to the Red Square. The hostel is really like new, has a kitchen decorated as if someone was doing shopping at Ikea and do not forget to visit any department. Some pots were not even unpacked. Guests have at their disposal all kitchen appliances, large fridge, a machine for hot water, free tea and coffee (and sugar :). The living room is wonderfully decorated, has a wicker chairs, painting referring to Africa and tasteful (well, maybe a little abstract) cuddly African animals.   Staff are friendly and very helpful. Provide very useful information about places in Moscow. In the hostel you can find some (new) guides, including Lonely Planet. They should, however, write that the guests do not wynosili their living room. They know even really strange. There is no problem with leaving one luggage. The rooms are very reasonably designed, each bed has a locker and two sockets at the correct height. Quite hard to get there, I think already working on hanging a large sign. Petrovka street side you enter the gate of a building with scaffolding. Hostel is a (orange?) metal door in a building on the right, a children's playground.

• Sleep Quality

The staff is incredibly friendly and helpful. The location cannot be beat - it is walking distance away from Red Square/Kremlin and major theaters, multiple Metro stations and restaurants/bars. Love the bright colors and the funky decorations as well - most hostels I've been to have been rather drab, run-down affairs and these guys prove that even for a little money you don't have to settle for something that looks like an old hospital bed. All in all, for the $15/night I paid, this is a fantastic value and I would gladly come back here time and time again. In an expensive city that rarely lends itself to value, Safari is a welcome and pleasant surprise.

Moscow Muled

Top 5 caribbean mule recipes.

May 09, 2020

In this post, we reveal the Top 5 Caribbean Mule Recipes anywhere on the internet. Read on to learn how to make this awesome variation on the classic Moscow Mule!

Introduction

At times, one desires something new and exciting that complements the old. So, in comes the Caribbean Mule!

While you are probably familiar with the Moscow Mule, the Caribbean Mule is a variation that might just become your new favorite. The Caribbean Mule is a popular Mule that substitutes vodka for rum. An avid rum-drinker will no doubt love this version of the traditional Moscow Mule. And the best part is that it can easily be made from scratch without leaving your home. 

In this article, we’ll take a look at the easy-to-make, yet absolutely irresistible recipes for the Caribbean Mule. We’ll explore how the cocktails tastes, how it ought to be served, the different ways it can be made, and the different recipes. So, let’s get started!

History of the Caribbean Mule

Although there’s plenty to love about the original Moscow Mule, variety is undeniably the spice of life. Thus, there is good reason to have a collection of recipes for your cocktails. With only a cabinet full of liquor from different parts of the world and a few basic ingredients, exploring with the Mule drink is like going on an adventure from the comfort of your home bar. 

Because the original Mule was named to pay homage to where vodka came from, Russia, its variations have followed the same idea. The Caribbean Mule takes the spirit of the enchanting blue waters of the Caribbean islands, combined with conventional ginger beer. 

With the Caribbean Mule, you can choose to use spiced rum, white rum, pineapple-flavored rum, or even coconut rum. The sweetness of the drink is livened up by the ginger flavors.

Caribbean Mule Ingredients

The ingredients in this variation are:

• Rum – To achieve the best flavor, choose a premium quality rum.
• Lime juice – Fresh lime juice balances out the sweetness and adds a tangy flavor.
• Simple syrup – This can be made at home and is comprised of water, granulated sugar and, if you want to add a greater ginger kick, fresh slices of ginger.
• Ginger beer – Choose a high-quality beer for the best results.
• Ice – Use small crushed ice for heightened sensation and guaranteed chilling while drinking.

Which Rum Should You Use for your Caribbean Mule?

Spiced rum brings a comforting, warm feel that’s perfect during fall. When paired with ginger beer, the result is an extra sweetness and spice perfect for those cozy, cold nights or for entertaining your guests. Even when it comes to mixed drinks, you should always ensure you buy quality spiced rum. Preferably, use one with a medium to heavy texture. The flavors of the rum come out and help even out the ginger beer and simple syrup. 

You can also choose to use Red Leg rum. Red Leg spiced rum comes from the makers of Blavod, a premium vodka. The name is inspired by the red legged hermit crab that is indigenous to the coral reefs found in the Caribbean. The rum is infused with vanilla and ginger  and then rested in oak casks to marry all the spicy flavors. 

The Easy Caribbean Mule Cocktail

Ingredients:

• 4 oz spiced rum
• 2 small pieces of fresh ginger
• 4 oz ginger beer
• ¼ oz homemade ginger simple syrup
• ¼ oz lime juice

Instructions:

• Muddle the fresh ginger.
• In a cocktail mixer, add the simple syrup, spiced rum, and lime juice and shake well.
• Strain, then add ginger beer to create that absolutely delicious spicy cocktail. 

Pirate Inspired Caribbean Mule

This cocktail will transport you to the ocean blue waters of the dreamy Caribbean from wherever you are in the world. 

• ½ oz white rum
• ½ oz gold rum
• 1 oz coconut rum
• Pineapple wedge
• Mix all the rums.
• Add ginger beer, then stir gently.
• Serve in a classic copper mule mug over ice and garnish with the pineapple wedge.

The Kranks’ Caribbean Mule

This easy-to-make Caribbean style cocktail is one tasty treat. It draws its inspiration from a holiday favorite, ‘Christmas with the Kranks.’ In the movie, a couple whose kids are all grown up and have left home go merry-making on a Caribbean holiday cruise. This particular cocktail uses cranberry syrup, which gives the drink a distinctive twist.

• 4 fresh cranberries chopped
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 12 oz ginger beer
• ½ cup white sugar
• ½ cup water
• 1 oz fresh lime juice
• 2 slices lime
• Ice as needed 
• Put the water, sugar, and chopped cranberries in a saucepan and cook over very low heat.
• Stir frequently until the cranberries are completely soft.
• Use a fine-mesh sieve to strain the mixture. Press the pulp gently to extract the liquid.
• Let the syrup cool for about 20 minutes at room temperature. Cover the syrup and put it in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes before use.
• Pour ½ oz of lime juice and 1 tablespoon of the cooled syrup into two Collins glasses or copper mugs.
• Add ice, then pour rum and ginger beer in equal amounts and stir using a cocktail stirrer.
• Garnish with cranberries, a lime wheel, and rosemary sprig.

Bright Caribbean Cocktail

This low-carb cocktail is bright enough to make you forget a chilly and dull day outside your window. It’s also perfect for weekend entertaining. Besides, you get to enjoy all the goodness of a low-carb  drink which lets you indulge while also helping you in the weight management department!

• 1 1/8-inch slice of fresh ginger
• ¼ teaspoon of pineapple coconut water enhancer
• 4 oz sugar-free ginger beer
• 1 oz pineapple rum
• Frozen cranberries
• 1/2 oz lime juice
• 2 oz club soda
• Muddle the ginger in the bottom of your cocktail mixer.
• Fill with ice.
• Add all the rum, water enhancer, and lime juice. Shake well.
• Put the mixture in a glass and add the club soda and ginger beer
• Garnish using the frozen cranberries and serve immediately.

The result is a sparkly cocktail that is ideal for weekend sipping. If you prefer your drinks a little sweeter and a bit heavier, then add more ginger beer.

Ginger Peach Fizz

The dark rum used has a flavor that perfectly complements the peaches  in this utterly amazing cocktail.

• 1 ½ oz dark rum
• ¾ oz simple syrup
• ¾ oz lime juice
• 2 slices of peach
• Muddle peach slices in a cocktail shaker.
• Add ice, lime juice, rum, and simple syrup, then shake.
• Strain mixture in a highball glass and top with ice.
• Fill the glass with ginger beer and stir.
• Use the mint sprig to garnish.

Which One Should You Use: Ginger Beer or Ginger Ale?

Although it’s possible to use ginger ale instead of ginger beer in your Caribbean Mule cocktails, you won’t achieve the depth of ginger flavor, which is what makes ginger beer such a great mixer. Ginger beer is actually fermented and has a sharper, more pronounced ginger flavor and almost .05 percent alcohol. Besides, it’s less carbonated compared to ginger ale .

Making Homemade Simple Syrup

Simple syrup is a mixture of sugar and water that’s dissolved and then cooled. The ideal ratio should be 1:1.

To make a ginger simple syrup, you should mix a few fresh slices of ginger with water and sugar and put it in a small saucepan. Then, place it over medium heat and cook for about 5 minutes. Once the sugar has dissolved, remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Should You Make Your Own Simple Syrup or Use A Store-Bought One?

Even if you're a novice, making your own homemade spiced Caribbean Mule with your own simple syrup is very easy. The advantage of making your own is you can control the sweetness and flavor when cooking. For instance, adding extra ginger will give your drink more punch. On the other hand, if you need a faster drink, then store-bought simple syrup is your best bet. However, it will not have as much ginger flavor. 

Get Creative

Does the idea of rum and ginger beer sound fascinating? Rather than just following a specific recipe, take a tall glass and fill it with ice to the brim. Next, pour a shot of rum or two. Add ginger beer to the ice and rum until you find the balance that perfectly suits your palate.

It’s Always a Good Time

With these delicious and refreshing recipes, you can rest assured that these cocktails will excite any palate. The drinks are meant to be sweet but not overly sweet, and the alcohol contents, although generously poured, can still be subtle depending on what you like.

Cocktails are more than simply drinks. They make friends out of strangers and bring people together. So, sit back, relax, and have a good time with any of these amazing recipes.

Did You Enjoy This Article?

Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, you might also like the following articles:  Top 7 Jamaican Mule Recipes and  Top 7 Pineapple Mule Recipes

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Eurasia hostel, panda hostel, master hostel, green mango hostel.

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