donkey trek france

Donkey trekking in the Cevennes

What you will experience

Set off to discover the Cévennes National Park, in the heart of the Massif Central, a place that is still isolated and wild - a place you will explore with an endearing animal with a strong character: a donkey.

An itinerant walk in which your mountain guide will take you in the footsteps of Stevenson in the company of a donkey.

Nights in isolated gîtes typical of the region and two nights bivouacking to contemplate the starriest sky in France, that of the Cévennes.

Cultural visits to picturesque villages steeped in history in the heights of the Cévennes, and meetings with local people

We'll meet at 5pm at Mas de Corbière to meet our group and our guide. We'll have our first meal together at the gîte, where we'll spend our first night. 

After saddling up our donkeys, we set off in the direction of the Asclié pass (985 m) and its sheep bridge, created for the passage of flocks of ewes during the transhumance.

We take the transhumance route towards Mont Aigoual, used every year by almost 10,000 cattle to reach the mountain pastures that are still green at altitude.

After a break under the hetraie, we reach the beautiful sheepfolds of Bonperrier before continuing on to our gîte, Le Fenouillet. After looking after our donkeys, we'll have dinner at our accommodation, a small family-run business offering a warm welcome.

On the third day, we'll take the winding paths lined with drystone walls to Ardalliers, a pretty village steeped in history and a hotbed of the Resistance. We'll then make our way to Puech Sigal, a magnificent hilltop hamlet, to set up camp and meet Léo and Violette, who are in the process of setting up their own campsite. will be delighted to show us around their apiary...

In the evening, we'll spend our first night in a self-contained bivouac. We'll be taking advantage of the fact that the Cévennes National Park is one of the places with the least light pollution in France. It has also been awarded the title of Europe's largest dark sky reserve.

Early in the morning, after tidying up the camp and preparing our donkeys, we set off along the winding GR to Notre-Dame-de-la-Rouvière, a remote Catholic village in the middle of this region with a Protestant tradition.

We then continue on to the Valnierette, a small river ideal for a refreshing dip and a well-deserved break. In the shade of the oak and chestnut trees, we easily reach the campsite, pleasantly situated on the banks of the river.

A day to relax and discover the "Jardin des Sambucs", an extraordinary garden with a multitude of plant species and original buildings.

We'll finish the day with a short walk through some pretty hamlets typical of the Cévennes, perhaps giving us a chance to meet the local castane grower. We'll then make our way to our gîte, a small farmhouse that has just been set up, with its animals and small swimming pool.

We'll follow paths through chestnut groves and green oak forests to reach small Cévennes hamlets surrounded by terraced fields.

We'll discover the medieval village of Saint-Martial and its 12th-century church, before returning to our starting point on the first day.

End of stay at Mas Corbière around 4pm.

Location and access

Where and when we meet.

Where and when we say goodbye

How to get there.

You can reach Mas de Corbières by car.

If you don't have a car, you should know that we're encouraging car-pooling between participants by creating a WhatsApp group 15 days before departure: an opportunity to get to know each other before you even start your expedition!

What level should you expect

An expedition for anyone who wants to go hiking with a four-legged friend:

• Are you interested in discovering isolated regions and magnificent landscapes?
• You want to enjoy an easy, multi-day hike, without carrying a rucksack, sleeping in gîtes and tents.
• You are ready to walk 7 km to 10 km per day with an average positive difference in altitude of 500m
• Do you want to come with your family or friends, or register as a single person (children aged 3 and over admitted)?

Meet your guides

Mountain Leader (AMM)

A recent mountain guide, I grew up in Mas Corbières with the donkeys that I know inside out. Particularly attached to the history and traditional culture of the Cévennes, I would take the time to help you discover magical places and unspoilt nature.

What's included in the price

Framing: Throughout your stay, you'll be accompanied by Noé, a local guide who knows the region as well as his donkeys.

Accommodation: You'll have the opportunity to spend three nights in a gîte and two nights in the magic of the bivouac experience. During the nights in a gîte, you'll sleep in a single bed in a shared room.

Catering: All your meals from the first day (evening) to the last day (midday) are included in the price of your expedition.

Bivouac equipment: All the bivouac equipment is provided: tents, stoves, cooking gear, etc. All you need is your best mattress and a good sleeping bag. All you need is your best mattress and a good sleeping bag.

Donkeys: For this donkey trek, we'll be accompanied by donkeys with the appropriate hiking equipment.

Not included

Your personal consumption

Everything not included in "What the price includes".

How to register

Choose your date.

Book online by paying a advance or directly the full amount . Reservations can also be made by telephone on +32 474 52 20 36 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm).

> If the minimum number of participants is reached, the departure is confirmed! > If the minimum number of participants is not reached, we'll give you a full refund

Departure is confirmed 15 days before shipments of more than 4 days. Departure is confirmed 7 days before departures of less than 4 days.

In the case of a deposit, the remaining amount will be debited from your account before departure.

Our answers to your questions

Yes, all our expeditions can be privatised for a group already formed on the dates of your choice. To make a privatisation request, go to the Expedition Privatisation page. Private departure

Discoverent offers outdoor trips focused on reconnecting with nature and personal development. Our commitment to this unique experience means that our departures are maintained regardless of weather conditions, whether rain, snow, wind or storm. We are flexible and ready to adjust the itinerary, activities or accommodation to suit the circumstances.

The safety of our participants is our absolute priority. In exceptional and unavoidable cases where safety cannot be guaranteed, the DiscoveRent team reserves the right to cancel a departure. However, this decision will only be taken as the holiday approaches, i.e. less than a week before the planned departure. In such cases, we undertake to offer you the possibility of postponing your participation free of charge to another departure or to refund you in full the sums already paid. Our aim is to offer you the best possible experience while maintaining the safety of all our participants.

At DiscoveRent, we attach particular importance to price transparency for our shipments. Our approach is based on a clear breakdown of costs, aimed at providing a better understanding of the elements included in the total amount. Here's how we allocate percentages:

• 30% for our guides :  We believe that our experienced guides play a crucial role in the success of each activity. That's why we make sure that we allocate a significant proportion to remunerating their expertise and supervision.
• 35% for accommodation and food :  We consider comfortable accommodation and quality food to be essential elements of a rewarding experience. This percentage is dedicated to providing you with a pleasant stay and satisfying meals during your expedition.
• 10% for equipment and transport :  The safety and comfort of our participants is paramount. Thanks to this part of the total amount, we can guarantee that the equipment required is in excellent condition and adequate for each activity. Transport costs also come into play when they are essential during an expedition.
• 25% for participation and operating costs of the expedition :  These costs cover the logistical, administrative and organisational aspects of the expedition, as well as the overall management of the experience from start to finish.

Our aim is to provide you with a trustworthy and quality experience, while being transparent about the final cost of your shipment. If you have any further questions about our prices, please do not hesitate to contact us.  here .

Yes, the donkey can carry a load of up to 35kg. You will only need to carry your bag during the day, along with your jacket, water bottle and picnic. Note that to load the donkey, your bag should be a maximum of 60cm long, and you should allow for a maximum of 10kg per person.

There is between 7km and 10km of walking per day. Depending on your pace, we will walk between 3 and 5 hours.

No, this hike can be considered as a discovery of hiking in the wild. We offer you a wild immersion accessible to all.

This depends on the number of people taking part in the expedition. In general, we allow 1 donkey for a group of 4 people and 2 when there are more than 4 people.

Children aged 3 and over are welcome on this expedition!

The gites you'll stay in on this expedition are comfortable and active in reducing their carbon footprint.

You will have access to toilets and showers and will sleep in single beds and shared rooms.

Photo gallery

Do you have any questions?

DUGUE - August 28, 2023

A wonderful week of change of scenery and letting go ... a very small group of 4 ideal with our 6 year old donkey Gamin.... and an adorable donkey guide, Caro, who taught us a lot about donkeys and the surrounding countryside ... the scenery was magnificent and our wanderings were full of wonderful encounters ... Michel the beech farmer ... the owners of the gîtes ... Having a donkey guide with us was very reassuring and relaxing ... because our gentle 6-year-old "Gamin" confirmed some well-known ideas about donkeys ... "stubborn as a donkey"!

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From 7 to 12 May 2024

8 spots available

4 to confirm

From 14 to 20 May 2024

From 16 to 21 july 2024, from 13 to 18 august 2024.

4 seats available

From 20 to 25 August 2024

From 27 august to 1 september 2024, from 3 to 8 september 2024, closing of registrations.

15 days before departure for trips of more than 4 days 3 days before departure for trips <= 4 jours.

• Free cancellation up to 30 days before departure
• Full refund if departure is not confirmed 2 weeks before the departure date
• You can pay in instalments at the time of booking

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Our eco-score

Carbon footprint per person per day for this expedition is:

A one-way flight from Brussels to Madrid emits around 450 kg of CO₂e

For the sake of transparency we give an environmental rating to each of our expeditions. These are based on the overall carbon footprint of the holiday per person.

How do we calculate? Our emissions factors can be found on the Base Carbone® database. public database, administered by ADEME (the French Environment and Energy Management Agency).

Although at the customer's expense, we include transport to and from the meeting point, as well as transfers during the stay. Although we encourage travel by train, we assume a car pool of three people for safety reasons. For European destinations further afield, a plane journey is taken into account.

We have three types of accommodation: gites, refuges and bivouacs. Depending on the type of accommodation, we calculate the average emissions per person over the entire stay.

We have 3 omnivorous meals per day per person.

According to the belgium.be website, each of us produces around 1 kg of household waste every day. We have therefore used this assumption to calculate the carbon footprint of waste during a shipment.

Emission factors base-empreinte.ademe.fr

Assumptions belgium.be/environment/sustainableconsumption/waste

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Our hikes with a donkey to discover the departments of Aveyron, Lot and Cantal

Whether you come for one, two or more days, whether you are a beginner or an experienced hiker, whether you are discovering donkey trekking or are already a great adventurer, alone or in a group, with your family and your children or teenagers, you will find the donkey trek adapted to your wishes: a one-day walk with a pack-saddle donkey, an itinerant circuit in a loop or a linear trek of several days with donkeys.

You will enjoy hiking with a donkey, a playful companion, who will carry your young children and motivate the troops to walk! You will discover the complicity that quickly settles in with this intelligent animal and the harmony it creates around it … between family members, with nature … all the simplicity and happiness of being together and sharing an original and unforgettable adventure, going from discovery to discovery.

Our family tours of several days

You will have the choice between playful walks around the Monédiès donkey hamlet (Les Bréfinies) and the discovery of Conques like the pilgrims of the Middle Ages by walking on ancestral paths. You can also take the sumptuous Lo Camin d’Olt which will guide you between the Cantal mountains and the Lot valley through centuries of history and life…

For all our hiking tours, we offer different organization and accommodation options to discover in the tab “DETAILS AND RATES” of each stay

a donkey ride ➜ to discover conchs

Discovery of Conques

Paths of Monédiès by the Chemin des Bagnards

The hermitage of Fraysse

our stays with a donkey ➜ of pack on the "camin d'olt"

Camin d’Olt From the Bréfinies to the Abbey

Camin d’Olt 3 Castles Loop

Camin d’Olt by the Tipi de l’Ermitage du Fraysse

tours between nature and adventure ➜ between rouergue and auvergne

Along the valleys towards Conques

Loop of the Lookout Hill

Great loop between Rouergue and Auvergne

A day’s walk

WALK AROUND THE BREFINIES Breathe in the green of our region, take the time to live the moment by walking a day on marked trails. After some advice, we entrust you with a donkey and you leave for a donkey ride on the paths around the hamlet of the Ânes de Monédies (Les Bréfinies). You can choose between several marked circuits whose distance varies between 5 and 15 km.

On your route you will find beautiful spots to picnic and nap while your children wade in the river.

We provide you with maps and topo guides.

All year round by appointment, reservation required by mail or phone

Price: €75/day for a donkey

Practical: closed shoes, suitable clothing for walking and depending on the weather, bicycle helmet for children recommended.

A cure of organic donkey milk to boost your body before the effort!

Did you know that? Donkey milk has the property to stimulate the immune system of the body, to regulate the transit, it is also an excellent source of vitamins and trace elements But not only…

Protection de la vie privée

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Donkey treks in France

Christine Keiffer hires out donkeys to groups of holiday makers, for week-long treks through the amazing Mercantour National Park, on the Italian border.

How did you start your business?

We started 20 years ago. I come from the area, and wanted to work with donkeys, because they are intelligent. Intelligent, affectionate and loyal.

Why do people take donkeys on their treks?

They carry the luggage – and you need quite a lot for a week in the wilderness – they motivate children, they are a pleasure and entertainment to be around, and they offer some degree of security, including simply carrying a weary child. It is also a learning experience to be close to a donkey.

Who hires out your donkeys?

Walkers who have some degree of walking experience; it’s not a serious week of hiking, but the terrain, navigating (it is self-guided) and camping are not for total beginners either. Other farms can offer a similar holiday on easier routes, which would be suitable for beginners.

Families can only take our donkeys out if their children are over 5 years old. The donkeys are mainly meant for baggage, but will be happy to carry children – or even an adult – for a while, if a child gets very tired.

Do people need to be experienced with donkeys for this kind of trip?

No. We have 50 donkeys, who were all born on the farm. Before any group sets off on their trip, we spend around 3 hours with them on the farm, explaining how to look after donkeys, how to handle them, and how to deal with any veterinary issue, just in case. Donkeys are easy to look after, gentle, and they eat grass.

There are around 150 farms in France, where donkeys are hired out to walkers, and 80 who are members of the Fédération Nationale Anes et Randonnées . Visit their site for more information on why donkeys are special, how trekking with them helps the environment, and other interesting facts about donkeys and the association.

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Not horsing around: donkey trekking in rural France

Accidental detours are embraced on a family break amid the Lot valley’s forests, abbeys and wildlife – all in the company of Lulu, their trusted donkey companion

A riding holiday used to be my ultimate dream: for 30 horse-mad years, I stared out of car windows and imagined galloping across moors and fields, fast and free. But middle age and a bad fall have done their insidious work and while I still love horses, I can’t shake the feeling they can be too unpredictable to trust. Time to test a more sedate kind of equine holiday: donkey trekking in rural France, walking with, rather than riding on, the donkey.

I’m trying it out in the heart of pilgrim territory, a picturesque section of the Santiago de Compostela trail between Lot and Aveyron, where meandering paths link medieval hill villages. Pilgrims have used Pyrenean donkeys – strong, sure-footed and hardy – as pack animals for centuries, but now families are getting in on the act. A donkey can easily carry a younger child as well as baggage (up to 40kg total).

My teenage sons have never shared my equine dreams. Mainly, they dream of me leaving them alone with a high-speed wireless connection, but I’ve brought them along anyway. My French husband is game, but bemused by the economics of donkey hire: “Wouldn’t it be better to buy a donkey, then at the end of the trek make a nice sausage out of it?”

He’s instructed not to mention this when we reach the Ânes de Monédiès trekking centre. Set in a peaceful Aveyron hamlet, all birdsong and wild flowers, it’s run by Pier Paolo and Victoria Zenoni. Pier Paolo, a Belgian mechanic, fell for the Pyrenean donkey that accompanied him on pilgrimage 20 years ago and now he has 58 of them, with up to 30 out trekking (some as far as Compostela itself, 700 miles away) at a time. We’re introduced to our companion Lulu, a handsome chap who flicks an underwhelmed glance at us then goes back to his hay.

After a meaty DIY barbecue with truffade , the addictive local Cantal cheese and potato concoction and a night in Pier Paolo’s luxurious yurt (vast and cool with a view over a field of heavily pregnant lady donkeys), it’s time to set off. Monédiès offers anything from easy one-day rambles to bespoke three-month pilgrimages, with donkey-friendly accommodation at each stop: we’ve opted for a two-day tour to the Unesco heritage site of Conques . Victoria shows us how to fit Lulu’s pack and saddlebags and gives us directions, then after receiving strict orders not to let him graze until lunchtime, we’re off.

I love walking, but a donkey adds a new dimension. It’s less like horse riding, more like having an enormous, stoic dog to amuse you, but also carry your bags. We sling our miraculously free arms around Lulu’s neck, admire his gigantic ears and squabble over leading technique. His sure hooves pick an unerring path, easily managing the off-piste scrambles caused by navigational hiccups (trails are well marked but somehow we still get lost).

Our accidental detours don’t matter, because the terrain is so spectacular: we cross shaded chestnut groves and climb rocky paths, catching our breath surveying miles of undulating rock and forest. There are freezing streams, hedgerows full of wild strawberries and mint, tiny lizards basking and herds of pretty, doe-eyed cows that follow us, fascinated by Lulu.

It takes five hot hours to reach Conques, a pilgrimage site for a full millennium, clinging dramatically to the hillside. The ancient abbey guesthouse – a cool, simple refuge for pilgrims – is our home for the night and, once Lulu is settled, contentedly grazing in their field, we explore. From the Roman bridge to the soft pink half-timbered houses and the extraordinarily grisly carving of the Last Judgment on the 11th-century Romanesque church, it feels unchanged in centuries, though the boys inevitably manage to find a bar with wifi. We leave them there while we admire the relics of Sainte Foy in their Trump-worthy jewelled and gold reliquary, stolen from Agen in a 9th-century heist by two monks.

After a copious communal dinner at the abbey and a night in a dormitory shared with New Zealand pilgrims and hardy French pensioners, we’re back on the trail. Walking with Lulu, we become the Kardashians of Conques: people exclaim with delight, and rush to take pictures. Everyone wants to know if he’s well-behaved: fresh from my morning struggles to clean his hooves and remove his vast, freakishly strong head from someone’s flowerbed (no one has explained the “no grazing en route” rule to Lulu), I am not sure what to say. He’s strong-willed, funny and obsessed with apples; he’s perfect. By the time we hike back to Monédiès, my husband is converted to the non-sausage benefits of donkeys.

On our last day, we give the teens a break with a cooling canoe trip down the rapids of the Lot, followed by burgers on the riverbank in unspoilt medieval Entraygues, officially one of France’s most beautiful villages. A whistle-stop tour through several more becomes an adult affair, the boys electing to lurk in the shade.

This trip – water, castles, donkey – would be ideal with younger kids, but even my jaded giants enjoy it. The 15-year-old actually says so.

A two-day trek to Conques with Les Ânes de Monédiès for a family of four, half board, costs from €801 with children over 10 (€701 with children under 10)

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I Love Walking In France

Inspiration, practical tips and guidebooks for long-distance walks in France

Walking the GR70 Chemin de Stevenson

By Melinda Lusmore

(Published September 2020, last updated February 2024)

When Scottish author, Robert Louis Stevenson, left the village of Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille in September 1878, with only his two feet and his donkey Modestine to carry him south, he could not have imagined that one hundred years later, thousands of walkers would be inspired to follow in his footsteps.

The ridge beyond Le Pont-de-Montvert

Over eleven days, the pair travelled through the Cévennes (one of France’s most loved National Parks) and arrived in Saint-Jean-du-Gard, having walked a little over 225 kilometres (140 miles). Now extended at both ends to link Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès, the Chemin de Stevenson, or GR 70, is a spectacular walk—of gentle slopes, endless ridges, relentless hills and majestic landscapes.

On most days as we walked this route in 2016, we wondered if Stevenson had set a compass each morning, pointing at his destination for the day, and pushed on with little regard for the terrain! If there was a hill to be climbed or a ridge to be conquered, climb it or conquer it we did! But, as you’ll see from the map below, the Chemin de Stevenson twists and curls its way south in anything but a straight line!

Where is the Chemin de Stevenson in France?

Walkers approach the town of Landos

I can only imagine that the Chemin de Stevenson was mapped out by someone with a deep love for the rugged landscapes in this part of southern France and a desire to show off their much-loved backyard to visitors.

And what a magnificent job they have done!

Somewhere between Ussel and Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas

For the first few days, the GR 70 passes through forests and farmlands and the countryside appears deceptively gentle (although your leg muscles will likely disagree!). This is quintessential rural France, dotted with small towns and farming communities. The clanging of cow bells heralds the beginning and end of each working day and cattle choke the quiet country roads as they make their way to and from the milking sheds. Life here feels productive and purposeful—and relaxed!

Climbing Col de Finiels

As the path approaches Mont-Lozère and climbs Col de Finiels (the highest point on the walk), the vegetation—and the livestock—disappears. This is a popular ski destination during the winter months and tall rock pillars mounted along the edge of the trail guide travellers through deep snow. But during the walking season, the path is open and exposed to fierce sunshine and biting winds.

Views from a ridge in the Cévennes National Park

Continuing south to the Cévennes National Park, the GR 70 returns to the shelter of the forest with occasional glimpses through the trees to the wooded hills beyond. As you conquer each ridge, you’ll be richly rewarded with panoramic views of a landscape that appears to have been untouched for millennia.

Relais de Modestine in Chasseradès

Accommodation along the Chemin de Stevenson

There are plenty of options for overnight accommodation on a long-distance walk along the Chemin de Stevenson.

The longest section, from Le Pont-de-Montvert to Bédouès-Cocurès, requires a walk of 23.5 kilometres (14.7 miles) or, if you wish to spend the following night in Florac, you will need to cover an additional five kilometres (three miles) of walking. To avoid this, a shortcut along the GR 68 will allow you to reduce the walk by six kilometres. 

Auberge des Cévennes in Le Pont-de-Montvert where Robert Louis Stevenson stopped for his midday meal

Between Le Puy-en-Velay and Alès, accommodation is available in the following towns, with distances given from the starting point of Le Puy-en-Velay.

0.0 km                 (0.0 mi)                Le Puy-en-Velay

19.3 km               (12.1 mi)              Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille

23.8 km               (14.9 mi)              Courmarcès

30.1 km               (18.8 mi)              Goudet

34.9 km               (21.8 mi)              Ussel

42.9 km               (26.8 mi)              Le Bouchet-St-Nicolas

49.4 km               (30.9 mi)              Landos

55.1 km               (34.4 mi)              Arquejol

63.6 km               (39.8 mi)              Pradelles

69.6 km               (43.5 mi)              Langogne

82.1 km               (51.3 mi)              Fouzilhac

85.5 km               (53.4 mi)              Cheylard-l’Évêque

97 km                  (60.6 mi)              Luc

104.2 km             (65.1 mi)              Laveyrune

113.5 km             (70.9 mi)              Notre-Dame des Neiges

117 km                (73.1 mi)              La Bastide-Puylaurent

127.3 km             (79.6 mi)              Chasseradès

128.3 km             (80.2 mi)              Mirandol

130.3 km             (81.4 mi)              L’Estampe

142.3 km             (88.9 mi)              Les Alpiers

144.3 km             (90.2 mi)              Le Bleymard

149.5 km             (93.4 mi)              Station du Mont-Lozère

158.3 km             (98.9 mi)              Finiels

163.6 km             (102.3 mi)            Le Pont-de-Montvert

187.1 km             (116.9 mi)            Bédouès-Cocurès

192.1 km             (120.1 mi)            Florac

201.7 km             (126.1 mi)            St-Julien-d’Arpaon

209.5 km             (130.9 mi)            Cassagnas

224.5 km             (140.3 mi)            St-Germain-de-Calberte

233.4 km             (145.9 mi)            St-Etienne Vallée-Française

246.1 km             (153.8 mi)            St-Jean-du-Gard

270.1 km             (168.8 mi)            Alès

How to book accommodation in French    

Leaving Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas on a cool, crisp morning

Chemin de Stevenson itinerary

The Chemin de Stevenson is a nature lover’s delight and the vast landscapes and panoramic vistas are ample reward for what is often a tiring, and occasionally difficult, walk.

The GR 70 intersects or shares a route with several other Grand Randonnée paths along its entire length to Saint-Jean-du-Gard. The good news is that this often provides an opportunity to shorten a day’s walk or bypass small sections altogether. The bad news, if you are not paying attention to the markers, is that you may find yourself in a village you hadn’t planned to visit. If this happens, I suggest you stop at the nearest café, catch your breath over a cold drink, then cut your losses and ask the waiter to call a taxi to take you to the closest village on your intended path.

For many people, following the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson would not be complete without the company of a donkey. There are several places where a donkey can be rented and you’ll find a list on the RL Stevenson Association website . This website, and those of the agencies offering donkey rental, are in French. I recommend seeking assistance if you are not familiar with the language, as there may be conditions, such as required rest periods and maximum kilometres that can be travelled each day, that you will need to consider. Note also that not all lodgings along the Chemin de Stevenson are able to accommodate donkeys, but you will be provided with a list of those that do provide shelter and feed.

A shady path through the forest between Florac and Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon

I have included the first and last sections from Le Puy-en-Velay to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille (day 1) and from Saint-Jean-du-Gard to Alès (day 14) in my suggested itinerary, but Robert Louis Stevenson walked neither of these two sections. His journey began in Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille where he had been living for the previous month, making preparations for the walk. After eleven days of walking, his faithful donkey, Modestine, was declared unfit to continue and Stevenson made the final leg of his journey to Alès by stage coach.

Robert Louis Stevenson completed the walk from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Saint-Jean-du-Gard in 11 days, but I recommend allowing plenty of time to walk each day and planning an itinerary that may be easier than you feel is necessary. This is a hilly walk and most days will be strenuous, or at the least, tiring.

Day 1    Le Puy-en-Velay to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille (19.3 km/12.1 mi).

Day 2    Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas (23.6 km/14.7 mi).

Day 3    Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas to Pradelles (20.7 km/12.9 mi).

Day 4    Pradelles to Cheylard-l’Évêque (21.9 km/13.7 mi).

Day 5    Cheylard-l’Évêque to Laveyrune (18.7 km/11.7 mi).

Day 6    Laveyrune to Notre-Dame des Neiges (9.3 km/5.8 mi).

Day 7    Notre-Dames des Neiges to Chasseradès (13.8 km/8.6 mi).

Day 8    Chasseradès to le Bleymard (17 km/10.6 mi).

Day 9    Le Bleymard to Le Pont-de-Montvert (19.3 km/12.1 mi).

Day 10   Le Pont-de-Montvert to Bédouès-Cocurès (23.5 km/14.7 mi).

Day 11   Bédouès-Cocurès to Cassagnas (22.4 km/14 mi).

Day 12   Cassagnas to Saint-Germain-de-Calberte (15 km/9.4 mi).

Day 13   Saint-Germain-de-Calberte to Saint-Jean-du-Gard (21.6 km/13.5 mi).

Day 14   Saint-Jean-du-Gard to Alès (24 km/15 mi).

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE CHEMIN DE STEVENSON

The view from Statue Notre-Dame de France in Le Puy-en-Velay to the hills where the Chemin de Stevenson (and the Chemin de Saint-Jacques) begin

Le Puy-en-Velay

Take a day before you start walking to explore Le Puy-en-Velay. Robert Louis Stevenson began his walk twenty-odd kilometres further south in Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, but visited Le Puy on several occasions during the preceding month to commission a large, waterproof sleeping sack for his journey.

Although the township of Le Puy-en-Velay sprawls over quite a large area, there are many charming corners to discover in the historical heart, including the twelfth-century Cathédrale Notre-Dame du-Puy with its adjoining cloister and the tiny chapel dedicated to Saint-Michel which stands high on top of Rocher Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe.

Take a look around Le Puy-en-Velay and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

Water fountain in the market place of Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille

Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille

It was in the market place of Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, that Robert Louis Stevenson met with an old man, one of the townsfolk known as Father Adam. Stevenson was in need of a beast of burden to carry his sleeping pack, food supplies and other essentials needed for his journey. Father Adam owned a small donkey that he used to pull his cart and after some vigorous haggling, Stevenson secured her purchase for the princely sum of 65 francs and a glass of brandy.

Long before Stevenson arrived, Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille was a thriving monastic community (records show that an abbey existed here as long ago as the fifth century). The current abbey church was completed by the end of the thirteenth century and is widely considered by medieval art specialists to be one of the most beautiful churches in the region.

In the fourteenth century, during the Hundred Years’ War, the English army swept through France, ravaging the area and occupying the abbey. In 1364, they built a château alongside the church. This was destroyed by fire during the Wars of Religion in the late sixteenth century, but was soon rebuilt. Today, the ground floor of the château houses a museum and in early August concerts are held in the courtyard.

Take a look around Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

A quaint corner in the most beautiful village of Pradelles

The picturesque village of Pradelles is ranked among France’s most beautiful villages, but rated barely a mention in Robert Louis Stevenson’s journal. He noted that he stopped for lunch, but rejected his host’s suggestion to pay a visit to Chapelle Notre-Dame where a statue of the Madonna, credited with performing many miracles, graced the high altar.

Since it is the only most beautiful village along the Chemin de Stevenson, Pradelles was a must-do stop for the night on my itinerary and its charming stone houses and quaint alleys did not disappoint.

Chapelle Notre-Dame was built in the early 1500s to house a statue of the Virgin Mary unearthed during construction work on a wall of the adjoining hospital. In 1586, when a raging fire destroyed this corner of Pradelles, only the chapel emerged unscathed. Two years later when the English attacked during the Wars of Religion, the townspeople were victorious and the Madonna’s status as divine protector of the village was firmly in place. In gratitude for her bestowed blessings, the chapel was replaced with a larger version in 1609.

Take a look around Pradelles and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

The village of Luc, overlooked by the ruins of the château

Château de Luc

High on a ridge overlooking the village of Luc are the ruins of a château. Built in the twelfth century, the heavily fortified castle provided protection for the villagers, successfully defending the area through the Hundred Years’ War and the Wars of Religion in the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries. But in 1630, during the reign of Louis XIII, orders were given to dismantle the château.

Thankfully, the dismantling was never completed and several towers remain. At the time of Stevenson’s arrival, the statue of the Virgin Mary had only recently been hoisted into place and a dedication ceremony was scheduled for the Sunday of the following week.

More recently, the association Les Amis de Château du Luc was formed to oversee the preservation and to keep the history of the ruins alive. Plaques detailing the original purpose of each remnant can be found throughout the site and offer an insight into its turbulent past.

Abbaye church of Notre-Dame des Neiges

Abbaye Notre-Dame des Neiges

Despite being raised a Protestant and later confessing to a monk that he considered himself a heretic, Robert Louis Stevenson detoured away from the main road at La Bastide-Puylaurent and headed east to the Abbaye Notre-Dame des Neiges.

In the twelfth century, the mountains here had sheltered four monasteries. Life within their walls had continued peacefully until the French Revolution in 1789 when monasteries throughout France were sold and the monks evicted. A century later, the new owner of one of the monasteries chose to return the building to the Cistercian order of monks.  

When Stevenson arrived in 1878, a new monastery—named Our Lady of the Snows—had been constructed and 90 monks had settled within the abbey. When I passed through, only ten monks called Abbaye Notre-Dame des Neiges home but the population swelled each night when 60—65 walkers (based on attendance at dinner) were welcomed into the former monks’ quarters.

Sadly, the last monks left Abbaye des Notre-Dame des Neiges in September 2022, but a newly-arrived group of eight nuns will continue to offer accommodation to walkers in 2024.

The abbey operates as a donativo , meaning that payment for lodging is by cash donation only. A simple but hearty dinner, cooked by one of the nuns, is served at communal tables, and guests are given instructions to wash and pack away the dishes before leaving the kitchen area. Breakfast is a similar affair of oranges, bread, yoghurt and coffee—and again, strict instructions to leave a clean kitchen!

The view from Sommet de Finiels

Le Pont-de-Mont-Vert

On Sunday morning 29 September 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson reached the highest point on his journey, Col de Finiels. He described the view “into the hazy air of heaven, and a land of intricate blue hills beneath his feet”.

“These were the Cévennes of the Cévennes.” he noted, recalling stories of the legendary Camisards—local, untrained Protestant peasants who had waged a guerrilla war against the might of the French army 180 years earlier. “In that undecipherable labyrinth of hills, a war of bandits, a war of wild beasts, raged for two years between the Grand Monarch with all his troops and marshals on the one hand, and a few thousand Protestant mountaineers on the other.”

It was with great anticipation that Stevenson continued on over the hills to Le Pont-de-Montvert where the war began.

Customers enjoy a cup of coffee or a cold drink at a café in Le Pont-de-Montvert

The village of Le Pont-de-Montvert oozes with historic charm and stories of the war fought by the Camisards in the early eighteenth century are evident around every corner. The buildings described in Stevenson’s journal are easily identified and it is fun to stand at the entrance to the bridge and imagine an approaching mob of angry farmers, intent on freeing their brothers held captive within the tower walls. (You can read Stevenson’s account of the war in his journal Travels with a Donkey and a summarised version in the I Love Walking in France guidebook .)

Le Pont-de-Montvert is one of the prettiest towns along the Chemin de Stevenson and the perfect spot for a lazy afternoon relaxing in a café near the river. The town is small enough to wander the streets without getting lost, but to find the church and other landmarks, call in to the Tourist Office near the bridge and ask for a map.

Take a look around Le Pont-de-Montvert and find a comprehensive list of accommodation.

The colourful interior of l’église Saint-Jean-Baptiste in Cocurès

Most walkers leave Le Pont-de-Montvert aiming to reach Florac, located 28.5 kilometres (17.8 miles) along the GR 70. This is a long day and many take advantage of a six-kilometre shortcut by switching to the GR 68 just past Col du Sapet. In the interests of staying faithful to the Chemin de Stevenson, we continued along the GR 70 and stopped a few kilometres before Florac in the village of Cocurès.  

Spending a night in Cocurès was not my preferred option as I planned our agenda. Although Robert Louis Stevenson passed through the village, it requires a short detour from the current GR 70 path. But it was a serendipitous decision and one of the highlights of the journey. Our hotel, La Lozerette , was undoubtedly the best of the trip—the room was spacious and charming and the dinner was superb!

As we continued our walk the next morning, the jumble of narrow streets through Cocurès soon converged on the parish church. Built in the nineteenth century and dedicated to Saint-Jean-Baptiste, the interior was a raucous symphony of richly decorated walls and colourful stained-glass windows—a truly delightful surprise which my photos fail to do justice!

The descent from Sommet de Finiels

How to plan an itinerary that suits you

If the thought of planning a long-distance walk feels too complicated, here you’ll find a step-by-step process (based on the Chemin de Stevenson). Of course, if you rather not do any of the research yourself, you’ll find it all done for you in the Chemin de Stevenson edition of the I Love Walking in France guidebook .

More tips on long-distance walking – preparation, packing and avoiding blisters

Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas. It was in the tall building towards the back that Stevenson spent the first night of his journey.

Pros and cons of booking accommodation in advance

Most walkers fall squarely into one of two camps when it comes to pre-booking accommodation—those who ALWAYS do and those who can’t imagine why deciding in advance where to stop each night would be a good idea.

Rather than recommend one option over the other, I suggest you consider the following points before committing to either plan:

• If you are having your luggage transferred along the Chemin de Stevenson, you’ll need to know where you’d like your bags dropped. All transfer companies advise booking at least one day in advance which allows your schedule to remain fairly loose, but they also point out that transfer vans fill up fast during the peak summer months and on rainy days. They advise against leaving your booking until the last minute.
• Some of the larger towns along the Chemin de Stevenson host a busy calendar of festivals and fairs throughout the warmer months attracting visitors from near and far. Although these towns often have a greater supply of beds, savvy locals know that rooms will fill fast at peak times and will often book many months in advance.
• As I looked for accommodation in March for a September walk, I found all beds in Cheylard l’Évêque already booked and a slight change to our plan was required. If you are young and fit, walking a few extra kilometres to the next village may not be a problem. But if you are a little older (like me!) and have been dreaming of an icy cold Orangina for the last hour or two (also like me!), any unexpected delays are most unwelcome!
• Abbaye Notre-Dames des Neiges is a popular stop on the chemin, and our night there was one of the highlights of the walk. Many other walkers, including a couple who had tried to book three months in advance, missed out as the complex was fully booked. If you have your heart set on any aspect of a trip, I recommend booking as soon as the date of your visit is known.

The Chemin de Stevenson passes below the railway viaduct at Mirandol. When Stevenson stayed the night in Chasseradès, he enjoyed a hearty discussion with railway engineers regarding its proposed construction.

Luggage transfers along the Chemin de Stevenson

Several companies offer luggage and people transfers along the Chemin de Stevenson. Each one requires you to leave your bags in the foyer by 8 AM each morning and they will be dropped at your next hotel some time during the afternoon. (If you have a short day of walking planned, it is possible you will arrive before your luggage.)

Each company has slightly different price rates, weight restrictions and operating seasons. If you are walking very early or very late (before mid-April or after mid-October) in the season, check carefully that the service is available when you need it.

Wander the picturesque streets of Le Bleymard

Of the companies listed below, I use La Malle Postale . Over the years, they have proved reliable, responsive to questions (the staff speak several languages) and very helpful when I needed to veer slightly away from their standard set of drop off points. Their website is easy to use (with English, German and French versions) and payment is via a secure system.

La Malle Postale (Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès)

Transbagages (Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-du-Gard)

Balades Cévenoles (Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès) 

The Chemin de Stevenson passes through farmland beyond the village of Luc

The best time of year to walk the Chemin de Stevenson

Walking season in France extends from April through until October. Outside of these months, many areas will be under snow and walking under these conditions carries a set of challenges well beyond my area of expertise. Many hotels will be closed during this period also, making accommodation harder to find.

The peak period for walkers is June, July and August, although daytime temperatures can be quite high during these summer months. Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, Florac and Saint-Jean-du-Gard host an additional weekly market in July and August and museums and châteaux remain open throughout the day, rarely closing for lunch, which will give you more flexibility if there is an attraction you’d like to visit.

August is traditionally the month when the French take their vacation—including hotel proprietors! This is less common, but not unheard of, in smaller villages and I try to avoid walking during this month.

In May and September, temperatures are much milder, the path is usually less crowded and walking is the perfect way to spend the day.

From my experience, you are more likely to encounter rainy days in May and my preference is to plan a September walk. I should mention though that when we completed this walk over the first two weeks in September 2016, severe storms prevented us walking on the last day from Saint-Germain-de-Calberte to Saint-Jean-du-Gard (we caught a ride with the La Malle Postale van) and, when I first published this post in late September 2020, Saint-Jean-du-Gard and the southern Cévennes was experiencing severe flooding.

Enjoying an icy cold drink on a blisteringly hot day in Ussel

The best guidebook for the Chemin de Stevenson

…other than an I Love Walking in France guidebook , of course!

By far the most common guidebooks carried by walkers I’ve met are the TopoGuide and the Miam Miam Dodo guides. Both are written in French but the layout and map presentations are quite different.

As I walked the Chemin de Stevenson, I purchased and carried both the TopoGuide and the Miam Miam Dodo guide. This comparison of the two guidebooks includes photos, likes and dislikes and a purchasing guide to help you navigate the online stores (in French). 

Approaching the village of Laveyrune at the end of Day 5

My personal favourite (for any long-distance walk in France) is the TopoGuide as I find the topographic maps enormously helpful for getting a feel for the terrain. 

TopoGuides are published by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre (FFRP), the non-profit organisation which oversees the maintenance and sign-posting of all long-distance walking paths in France—with the aid of an army of dedicated volunteers. Without their tireless efforts, long-distance walking would not be possible and I am happy to support them by purchasing their guidebooks.

Ready to start planning your own walk?

“All the hard research and planning has been done for you! Inspirational!”

“In 2014 I completed the first few stages of the Chemin de Stevenson before an injury forced me to go home early, now that I’ve read Melinda’s guide book I am seriously thinking about going back to finish it. All the hard research and planning has been done for you so all you have to do is make some bookings then go and walk it. Inspirational!” – Richard Winter

Purchase the 2024 edition of the Chemin de Stevenson (PDF) guidebook US$12.99

$12.99 USD – Chemin de Stevenson GR 70 (PDF) guidebook Checkout Added to cart

About The Author – Melinda Lusmore

Hi! I’m Melinda, the walker behind I Love Walking in France. Nothing makes me happier than wandering through the picturesque villages and glorious countryside in rural France, and helping others to do the same. Whether you’re looking for practical tips or a little inspiration for your own long-distance walk, you’ll find everything you need right here. This website contains no sponsored posts or affiliate links. If I recommend a product, service or somewhere to stay, it’s because I’ve used it, loved it—and I think you will too!

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In the footsteps of Stevenson in the Cévennes

The donkey is the favourite companion of hikers on this route between the Haute-Loire and Gard departments. Following in the footsteps of the Scottish writer, they embrace the history and spectacular landscapes of this rustic part of France, enjoying a rare bond with the animal.

Is it the rediscovery of Stevenson’s account of setting off on a walk with a donkey in 1878? The success of My Donkey, My Lover & I , a refreshing film relating the tragicomic adventures of a tourist with her four-legged friend? Or is it simply the call of the great outdoors? All of the above have contributed to the success of the Chemin de Stevenson. Each year, more and more hikers make the journey between Le Puy-en-Velay and Alès: a great escape covering 272 km across the four departments of Haute-Loire, Ardèche, Lozère and Gard. Whether they decide to tackle it all in one go over a dozen days or in sections, everyone is on foot along this Grande Randonnée (GR 70) hiking trail, but not necessarily alone. To spice up the adventure and mimic the Scottish writer’s saga, they are sometimes accompanied by a donkey…

Putting on a packsaddle, brushing, cleaning the hooves…

You must prepare yourself: despite the wise advice of the operators hiring out the donkeys, there are bound to be hitches along the way. There is no space here to detail the process required to learn how put on a packsaddle, position the halter, brush the animal or clean its hooves each morning. Arriving at the gîtes or hotels equipped to welcome donkeys means performing several tasks such as feeding and watering the animal and taking it to its pen, after walking all day… And while the beasts may be well used to accompanying hikers, they are not above getting into a curmudgeonly mood, firmly refusing to budge for some time. These little inconveniences are to be accepted with a smile, because the animal’s company – especially with children – and the landscapes travelled through are well worth a few sacrifices.

Getting to grips with the landscape en route

Also a victim of his donkey Modestine’s unruly behaviour, Stevenson was not very taken with the first part of his journey: “without wood, without much grandeur of hill-form, and famous in the past for little beside wolves,” he wrote in Travels With a Donkey in the Cévennes , published one year after his trip. Yet, the heights of Velay and Gévaudan are not lacking in charm with their deserted horizons and forgotten villages. However, the quintessence of the journey is perhaps found near Mont Lozère, between Villefort and Fleurac. Stevenson wrote: “It was quite unexpectedly at last that my eyes rose above the summit […], a view into the hazy air of heaven, and a land of intricate blue hills below my feet […]. These are the Cévennes with an emphasis: the Cévennes of the Cévennes.” He wrote these words at the top of Finiels. The entire Cévennes area with a strong historical and industrial identity spread out beneath his feet.

• ville : Montpellier
• pays : France
• aeroport plus proche : Montpellier Méditerranée

The southern Cévennes, a region charged with history

Leaving the Col de Finiels pass, which in good weather offers a view over the mountains of Gerbier-de-Jonc (source of the Loire), Mézenc, Aigoual and sometimes the Plomb du Cantal, walkers plunge into wooded valleys of chestnut trees, tragic witnesses of the Camisard insurrection in the early 18 th century. A little lower, Pont-de-Montvert, a charming village on the banks of the Tarn, was one of the great Protestant strongholds. It was there in 1702 that the repression carried out by the king’s soldiers began. Continuing to the south, hikers will pass through Mialet, where the Musée du Désert museum tells the whole Protestant history of the Cévennes. They will have previously passed through Saint-Jean-du-Gard and discovered silk spinning, cementing the memory of Cévennes workmanship at the Maison Rouge. Through its magnificent landscapes as much as the historic value of its regions, the Chemin de Stevenson offers a unique journey on foot.

Association Sur le chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson 311 VC le Quai 48220 Le Pont-de-Montvert +33 4 66 45 86 31 www.chemin-stevenson.org

Musée du Désert Le Mas Soubeyran 30140 Mialet +33 4 66 85 02 72 www.museedudesert.com

Maison Rouge – Musée des Vallées cévenoles 5 rue de l’Industrie 30270 Saint-Jean-du-Gard +33 4 66 85 10 48 www.maisonrouge-musee.fr

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Trekking with a donkey

in south Ardèche

THE DIFFERENTS POSSIBILITIES -  Ardèche canyon

In the heart of "les gorges de l'Ardèche", far from the crowds, in beautiful and peaceful surroundings.

You will feel the emotions of a people who lived here long ago, from prehistorically times to nowadays.

Many rock shelters or caves can be found along the track.

Every day is of 10 to 15 km, with possible stops.

Camping at the local farm, yourte, chambre d'hôte or hotels

advance booked accommodation

Swimming is possible in river or swimming pool every day

Walking with a donkey on the ancient mule trails .

25 years of experience with donkeys                                                                                                    Welcome in Ardèche

GOLDEN BOOK

 Coucouru Tour

7, 10 or 12 km of walk, ie 3 to 4 hours.

This walk offers a magnificent view, remains accessible to all, take the picnic, good shoes. You will share a nice moment with family or friends.

  Datasheet

65 € / donkey / day

Hiking 2 to 3 days

Weekend Ardeche

Quiet adventure south side of the gorges, 10 to 12 km per day, reception in lodging or camping, bathing in swimming pool or river.

Hiking north side 15km a day, this more sporty route will make you climb on the ancient paths of prehistory, passage on the true cave Chauvet

120 to 185 € /donkey/ 2 to 3 days.

Hiking 4 to 7 days

Ardeche Canyon

The tour of the gorges of the Ardeche, 4 to 7 days of adventure in the wilderness, far from the beaten paths of the gorges. 8, 10, 12 km / day on average

 well adapted with small children.

245 to 385 € /donkey/ 4 to 7 days

Hiking Freedom: You are given all the advice and addresses to prepare your adventure

All-inclusive excursion: the agency Safran Tour manages for you all organization and reservations. "The little tour of the gorges of the Ardeche"

with a travel agency

5-7 days of hiking with beautiful cultural visits

in the underground world of Orgnac and

  an unforgettable swim in the gorges of the Ardèche.

Leave in good conditions, enjoy his adventure ... in short all the good advice before starting hiking ...

data sheet on the donkey.

our lodge for weekend or week

Cottage for 6 persons, labeled 2 ** by gîte de france, authentic stone farmhouse, comfortable house.

Find all the detail by accessing the reservation.

Some pictures below.

Opening hours and reservation.

Our farm welcomes you all year round,

April to September is the right time to come.

The reception is open in July and August.

Other date by reservation only.

To book your hike: 06 87 21 15 34

Getting to Trek'âne

We are located in the south of France in the department of Ardèche and 1.5km from Vallon Pont d'Arc.

Copyright Trekane Vallon- Tous droits réservés - Mentions légales - Crédits photos - 

Notre site est héberger par OVH

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Donkey trek in Hautes Alpes

Activity - holidays & weekends in éourres.

High in the southern Alps, the village of Eourres (70 inhabitants) is in a particularly unspoilt part of France – while being, amazingly, off the tourist track ! Bamboul'âne offers a variety of donkey-trekking holidays to suit all tastes, from confirmed hikers to leisurely ramblers and families with small children. You can spend seven days discovering the hills and valleys, the tiny villages and the three rivers (the Jabron, the Méouge and the Céans) of our "Three Valley Circuit" (board and night accommodation in various types of lodging, or self-catering in your own tent). Or you can explore the Alpine pastures and forests for 3 days, sleeping in your tent, and probably not meeting another human being… These are only two of the available circuits. Ask us about the others. Another possibility : put up your tent in our camping site, and follow our various scenic circuits, consisting of one-, two- or three-day hikes. Bamboul'âne will reserve your donkey for the length of your stay, so that you always have the same one, and can take him (or her) when you like. For more details, write to us (by post or e-mail) or phone. English language communication is no problem.

Practical information

Establishment policy, opening times, places of interest nearby, access itinerary.

• How to get to Bamboul'âne - Eeyore in Eourres - We are located in the Hautes Alpes (05) in Baronnies Provençales Regional Park: Bamboul'âne, La Cabane, 05300 Eourres (Hautes Alpes) - In South-eastern France, in the PACA region, near the southern border of the Drôme. Between the Durance River and Mont Ventoux, 35 km (22 miles) west of Sisteron.

Events nearby

Restaurants nearby, outings nearby.

Hiking with a donkey in France

• November 12, 2020

Walking in the mountains is good for us, but walking in the mountains with a donkey… well that’s just therapy for your soul! ⁣

We have just come back from a couple of days hiking in the stunning Parc National de la Vanoise in the French Alps, with the gorgeous four-legged, long-eared, ball of fluff ‘Figaro’, as a recce for a future trip!⁣

I would highly recommend this to anyone of any age. Having a donkey with you adds a charming new dimension to your hike. Their slow and steady place forces you to stop more often, take in your surroundings, spot the small things you might have otherwise missed and travel in a manner reminiscent of a simpler time.⁣

Figaro was strong-willed, kind eyed, funny and like all donkeys… obsessed with eating! Within just a few hours of setting off he had become an unforgettable member of our hiking family, with cuddles and kisses aplenty. We would often walk with our arm over his neck, admiring his magnificent ears, chatting away to him about anything and everything. Donkeys are great listeners! ⁣

Most of the time we didn’t even need to lead him, he just plodded along happily on a route I’m sure he knew well. We just made sure someone was behind him for the moments that the urge from is stomach to dive head long into the vegetation became just too frequent. At which point we would give him a little vocal reminder, “allez Figaro, allez!”⁣

“Poor donkey” some may say. Yes they carry your bags, but Figaro was carrying just 30kg’s, which is less than I have carried myself on many expeditions/adventures, and he is 4-wheel drive! You could be mistaken into thinking that we took a donkey for a walk, but I can assure you that it was more like Figaro took us for a walk… most things were on his terms!⁣ We stopped 10 times more than we normally would, allowing him to rest and eat, water was available for him around almost every corner (although they don’t drink much) and he had feed for morning and night as well as some treats. ⁣

I absolutely adore the creatures, they could possibly be my favourite animal of all. So loyal and stoic in nature. So focused and surefooted in all types of terrain. Who could want for a better hiking buddy.⁣

As well as sharing the load and making fantastic companions, donkeys can also provide other great benefits when out on the trail. Such as the fact that donkeys have great memories. They are said to be able to recognise areas where they have previously been up to 25 years before. A very useful quality while route-finding in challenging terrain.⁣

They also have an acute sense of self-preservation and are a good judge of whether or not a situation is safe. It’s nigh on impossible to persuade a donkey to go somewhere that they consider being dangerous. ⁣

The hardest bit of hiking with a donkey… handing them back!

Our wonderful donkey Figaro came from our friends at Anes en Vanoise in Praglonan.

Feel free to ask me any questions, happy to help where I can. 

You will mostly find me over on Instagram @katiejaneendurance but you can also follow along over on Facebook and Pinterest .

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Trekking the French Alps... with a donkey in tow

Tom whipple takes his family on a week-long walk with a spirited new companion.

S ometimes, at lunchtime, I allowed myself to forget. Sitting on the banks of an Alpine stream, watching as my two young sons created channels and dams, I ate cheese and bread. I listened to the bees and the rushing water, I felt the cool wind coming off the high snowfields. I relaxed. Then I turned around to the forest behind me and the illusion was shattered. Because staring back at me from among the trees — unblinking, incurious — was a malevolent donkey called Libellule.

That was when I remembered, anew, that the river may have washed off the smell, but the respite from the aroma and its stubborn owner would be temporary. My donkey trek would soon resume. But if my feelings towards Libellule were, shall we say, mixed, there was no such ambiguity with my sons. They very much approved of this new addition to the family walk. Or, as my three-year-old explained in an especially perspicacious moment: “I like you, Libellule, you smell yucky.” Then, without a complaint or a whinge, my son headed off up a steep path.

All I could think, though, as with a sigh we returned to the trek, was that back in AD zero Joseph had it easy. Yes, he had a heavily pregnant wife. Yes, he may have had the odd accommodation and wise men issue. But unlike on our walking holiday in the French Alps, for which our donkey was ostensibly also providing “help”, the route from Nazareth to Bethlehem is at least flat.

Equally, Joseph’s decision to take the beast along with him at all suggests that he came from a time when donkeys knew to respect their human masters.

Most of all, unlike me, his heavily pregnant wife wasn’t gestating her third child, but her first. So Joseph didn’t also have to deal with two other offspring trailing behind, laughing when the donkey pooed, commenting on its bladder capacity (vast) when it urinated, and the rest of the time asking, with evident glee, why it never did what I told it to. All of which is to say, Libellule and I had a complex relationship.

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But it was not me who Libellule was here for. She was on our walk because having her there was a way of persuading a three-year-old and a five-year-old that holidays can involve more than just sitting on a beach or taking a lacklustre tour of a mid-sized stately home. And incredibly this wonderful but malodorous, sublime but miasmic beast succeeded.

Libellule is French for dragonfly. The dragonfly is an elegant, graceful creature that dances among the flowers. Even William, our three-year-old, had suspicions that this was not the most apt description of our steed. “Her teeth,” he declared upon first acquaintance, “are yucky.”

“Her bottom,” he extemporised further, exhibiting hitherto undiscovered views on the importance of hygiene, “is disgusting.” “Daddy,” he added, imploring, “why doesn’t someone clean her bottom?”

If anyone was responsible for that task, it was Anita and Guillaume — farmers, one-time ski guides and local donkey magnates. The idea of their business is simple. They provide donkeys, maps and connections with donkey-friendly lodging in the area. They instruct you on how to look after the donkey and what to put on it (luggage, not children — at least on the precarious bits). As best I can tell, from my marginal knowledge of animal husbandry, they also keep their donkeys as clean as can be expected given the limitations of the beast. William’s implication was unfair.

They have found themselves at the zeitgeist. Ever since the success of the French-language film Antoinette dans les Cévennes , about a woman who goes walking with a donkey in rural France, demand for donkeys has boomed, with locals in some parts of the country complaining they can barely move without meeting braying and disobedient animals, of both the equine and tourist kind.

After we saddled our bags, which Libellule would be carrying for the next week, Guillaume called out a last piece of advice down the mountainside. “Remember, at the beginning it is very important to . . .” What donkey-discipline instructions came next I do not know. Because at that point Libellule, the sylph-like dragonfly she was, started braying and dragging me towards a patch of grass that she then refused, with her full heft, to leave.

William viewed the impasse as an opportunity to build his relationship. “Lubulu,” he said, “will you show me your teeth?” By way of incentive he bared his in exchange. Libellule, who seemed concerned neither about being called by the wrong name nor about having a three-year-old grimacing at her, stared back: unblinking, incurious.

Our journey had begun. Ahead of us, on day one, was a six-mile walk, with a 1,600ft ascent. Before we had children, we would do that in a morning. Today, with two young boys, a pregnant wife and a donkey that investigated every passing flower with all the attention of a Victorian botanist on the Grand Tour, it seemed as daunting as an ascent of the Matterhorn. Yet I needed it to succeed.

Partly for practical reasons. If you want a bed to sleep in you can’t give up an Alpine walk midway through like a petulant toddler (although I had a petulant toddler who was quite prepared to test that rule). But mainly, I needed it to succeed for my soul. One of the last holidays my wife and I had before children was a high-altitude walk from Chamonix to Zermatt. Walking is in our blood. My parents went on walking holidays. My grandparents once went on a week’s holiday to the Dolomites, leaving their four kids in a sort of kennel for children that, inexplicably, doesn’t exist any more.

The idea of this holiday was to find a way to get walking again in the absence of such civilised amenities. We could not have chosen a better destination. The Maritime Alps don’t have the vast massifs of Chamonix, the towering faces of Grindelwald or the groomed slopes of Val d’Isère. The après-ski culture passed them by, the keen mountaineers barely know they exist and the tourist infrastructure, where there is one, stops at the valley floor. They are, in other words, glorious.

After prising Libellule from that first patch of grass, for a week we roamed meadows and forests far above the valley floor, trekking between settlements connected by a network of ancient paths — and definitely not connected by mobile phone signals. Most were hamlets at best.

In all that time the closest we got to a proper town was the village of Sauze, which has a church, a guesthouse and a road connection sufficiently well maintained that you can presumably navigate it without nearly removing your undercarriage on a recent rockfall (as we did on the drive to Anita and Guillaume’s farm).

It was preposterously French. In the morning, having a coffee while looking up at the early summer snowfields, the only sounds were crickets and bees. When human life did appear, it came in the form of a woman in curlers stepping briefly onto the balcony of the mayor’s office (a French town may not have a shop or public toilets, but will always have a mayor), scowling beside a Tricolour, then bashing the dust out of a rug before returning to the shadows.

So it was that for six days, hardly believing it, we walked with a pair of boys who at home had a tendency to complain if you told them to walk to the local shop. Could all this really be down to the morale-boosting effects of a donkey?

Libellule was a riddle wrapped in an enigma, smothered in the ammonia-rich smell of donkey urine. Having her on the trip was like having an additional child. She needed to be cajoled to move, she was recalcitrant almost as a point of principle, she exhibited no apparent respect for my authority. When I stopped and gave her lunch, she wouldn’t eat. When I wanted to walk, she stopped to demand food.

Unlike a third child, though, she weighed a fifth of a tonne, and I had no genetic imperative to like her. By any reasonable estimates she made life harder rather than easier. She ate our lunch, nudged us towards precipices, and amiably weed on the rope I then had to tug her on.

As Catherine, my wife, put it: “I feel that with a donkey and a pregnant lady, the Bible really had a lot more mileage for physical comedy.” Indeed, in our more trying moments, as Libellule stood fast on a crumbling cliff face eating a choice flower, I viewed my claim to being her master as about as true as Joseph’s claim to being Jesus’s father — with both of us equally emasculated by maintaining the pretence.

Yet, quietly — or, actually, at times rather loudly — Libellule performed a kind of magic: she got the Whipple family walking again. On our last day, as we said goodbye, I unsaddled her and realised with a mild shock that I felt something approximating affection. “Goodbye, Libellule,” I said. I turned back to wave at this perverse, obstinate beast with unaccustomed benevolence. She was not in the mood for a sentimental parting. In the farmyard above me Libellule stared back: unblinking, incurious, malevolent.

Tom Whipple travelled independently with Itinerance Trekking, which has six-night full-board family-friendly donkey treks next summer from £600 per adult and £510 per child aged 5-12 ( en.itinerance.net ). Fly to Nice

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Donkey trekking

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Donkey trekking during the summer

Hiking in the catalan pyrenees.

Between France, Andorra and the Spanish counties Alt Urgell, Berguedà and Ripollés is located the region of La Cerdanya . Here in the Valley of the Segre River between the peaks of the CatalanPyrenees we will spend the summer 2016 (July / August).

Our starting point of the walks and trails is located in the  Vall de la Llosa , near the villages of Lles de Cerdanya and Viliella . From here, our donkeys accompany you to the mountain lakes, to Andorra and France , through small picturesque mountain villages or across the valley through the Natural Park of the Sierra de Cadi .

A hike with a donkey is ideal to immerse yourselves in the fascinating mountain world! There are hiking possibilities for all tastes, for leisurely hikers or sporty hikers. You can also choose between trails with overnight stays in a accommodation or a bivouac in mountain huts.

We offer self-guided multi-day trekkings, but also guided half- and full-day tours and one to two hour donkey rides with children and families.

Highlights on the hikes

• Breathtaking mountain views
• Mountain lakes
• Picturesque mountain villages
• Rippling streams and rivers
• Postcard idyll
• Nature Parks
• Mountain villages
• Hiking over the border (Spain, France, Andorra)
• Old smugglers’ routes
• Chapels and historical monuments
• Shepherds and mountain huts
• High mountains
• Secluded valleys
• Wild animals
• Mountain meadows
• Beautiful forests

Suggestions for hikes

1-2 day hike with a donkey into the valley vall de la llosa, for sporty or easy-going adventurers.

Cal Jan de la Llosa-Cabaña dels Espaveres- Refugi Montmalus/Refugi de L’Iila

The hike takes you through the upper part of the Llosa valley, going up the valley, you get over mountain passes to France and Andorra. In older times, smugglers transported their goods at night over the borders, not be spotted, with black donkeys.

The valley is situated between impressive mountains. Innumerable creeks, mountain meadows and forests make it a uniquely beautiful place for a unforgettable donkey hike in the mountains.

Whoever wants, can walk to the smugglers and shepherds hut Cabaña dels Espaveres and also make a bivouac there. Sportier walkers can continue walking and crossing a pass to Andorra. There you can stay overnight at a mountain lake in one of the non-warden mountain huts (Refugi de l’Illa or Refugi de Montmalús). The hike into the upper Llosa Valley can be attuned to your pace.

4-6 day Donkeytrek to the hidden mountain lakes

A trekking tour for outdoor lovers.

Can Jan de la Llosa – Cabaña dels Espaveres – Refugi de l’Illa – Refugi del Riu dels Orris – Refugi de Perafita – Refugi Estanys de la Pera – Refugi Font de les Pollineres- Refugi Cap del Rec – (Aranser)- Cal Jan de la Llosa

Through the valleys Vall de la Llosa and Vallcivera , you arrive through a pass, situated at 2500 m, to Andorra. Here opens us up a new view over a spectacular mountain scenery with countless smaller and bigger deep-blue mountain lakes, perfumed pine forests and unique rock formations. Pure mountain romance, far away from civilization.

The trek then proceeds through the valley Vall de Madriu and later you get over the pass Port de Perafita back to Spain. On the south side of the mountain after a total of 47 km you get back to the starting point.

Because there are many possibilities to make a bivouac, the trekking tour can be adjusted to your rhythm. At least the track is to be divided in 3 stages, but this is already quite sporty. A division into 5-6 stages is possible for relaxed walkers.

Most stages end in a non-warden mountain hut. On the Spanish side there are some accommodations for hikers.

The trekking to the mountain lakes in Andorra is a circular tour and a hike to the isolated mountain world, perfect for adventure lovers as well as for children with outdoor experienced parents.

Data Sheet- 4-6-day donkey trekking to the hidden mountain lakes

4-6 day hike to mountain villages and mountain lakes

A easy going hike.

Cal Jan de La Llosa – Cap de Rec – Refugi la Pera – (Tageswanderung nach Andorra/Estany de Perafita)- Aranser – (Lles) – Cal Jan de La Llosa

This walk takes you from the Llosa-Valley through the remote mountain villages Viliella, Aranser, Musser and Lles de Cerdanya . Here are also the two ski resorts of Lles and Aransa where, in the winter cross-country skiing is practised. Through flower meadows, forests and a waterfall, you get to the beautiful mountain lake La Pera .

From Refugi la Pera you have the opportunity to get over the pass Port de Perafita to Andorra in a day hike. Here you can enjoy an impressive mountainous panorama and find other deep-blue mountain lakes.

It is also possible to skip the mountain villages Lles and Musser and hike from Aranser directly back to Cal Jan de la Llosa .

If you do the whole round there are 6 hiking days, otherwise it can be shortened to 4. Because you walk no more than 10 km a day, the tour is the perfect choice for families with small children or people who want to take it easy. Overnight in hosted mountain huts and Hostels.

4-6-day donkey hike – mountain villages and mountain lakes

6-7 day donkey hike through the nature park Sierra de Cadí

Hike with accommodation and warden mountain huts.

Cal Jan de La Llosa – (Lles) -Montellà – Estana -(Prats de Cadì-Estana)-Refugi Prats d’Agullò – Santa Eugènia – Talltendre – Cal Jan de La Llosa

On this trek we visit the western part of the Cerdanya. The circuit passes through small mountain villages and the valley of the Segre River to arrive on the other side of the valley to the nature park of Cadí – Moixeró . The Sierra de Cadi is a range with an imposing mountain crest. On the north side of the mountain, we find shady forests and secluded mountain meadows.

The hike to the Sierra de Cadi is recommended for people who enjoy walking in the mountains and prefer to stay overnight in a accommodation. The stages are between 10 and 14 km and should be feasible without problem for hiking experienced children.

For this hike at least 6 stages have to be planned. From the idyllic mountain village of Estana you can visit the mountain meadow Prats de Cadí in a day hike. Well worth a visit! The impressive backdrop at the large forest clearing directly beneath the imposing cliff is unique!

Who wants to take it at the beginning more leisurely, has the opportunity to share the first stage into two. By visiting the Prats de Cadí and the division of the first stage, there are a total of 8 hiking days.

Data sheet: 6 to 8-day Donkeytrekking- Cadì Nord

On the hiking map you will find more possibilities

Starting point

Cal Jan de la Llosa

Cal Jan de la Llosa is a Masia (farmhouse) approximately 3 km from the small village Viliella . The house owners offer hikers the opportunity to camp with their own or rented tent in the meadow. But infrastructure is not available! You must organize yourself totally. The cost for the night in the tent is 10 – 15 € per night, per tent.

The next accommodation is located in the village of Lles de Cerdanya . If you stay the night before the donkey trekking in Lles , we can pick you up from there.

By public transport: By train from Perpignan or Barcelona (RENFE) to Puigcerdà and then by bus ( Alsa  or  Horarios )  to Martinet. From Martinet by taxi to Cal Jan de la Llosa.

Or direct bus from Barcelona or Girona, first to Puigcerdà or direct to Martinet(depending on the connection).

Taxi Sala: 0034 973 515 054 / 0034 646 331 744

By car: From the coast (Perpignan, Figueres, Girona, Barcelona) first towards Andorra. But before Andorra, 25km after Puigcerda on the N260 in Martinet turn towards Lles de Cerdanya.

On LV-4036 about 10 km to Lles then continue to Viliella

In Viliella 3 km gravel road to Cal Jan de la Llosa.

Parking at the farm (parking charge 2 € / d)

Cal Jan de la Llosa –  25726 Viliella 42°26’22.65“N/1°41’58.28“O

• Authors & Artists
• The idea behind the blog

Return of a Native

Landcapes of Literature, Art and Song

Travels with a Donkey, Robert Louis Stevenson

Music: aigue linda la guilhaumèla.

Like all his adventures, Robert Louis Stevenson’s journey through the French highlands led him deeper into his own experience. Near the summit of Mont Lozère, he marvelled at how light the world seemed to him on a perfumed night in a forest under the stars

And yet even while I was exulting in my solitude I became aware of a strange lack. I wished a companion to lie near me in the starlight, silent and not moving, but ever within touch. For there is a fellowship more quiet even than solitude, and which, rightly understood, is solitude made perfect. And to live out of doors with the woman a man loves is of all lives the most complete and free.

Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894) was a Scottish essayist, novelist, poet and travel writer, famous for writing Treasure Island and The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde .

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Comments from others

So interesting to read and so clearly and thoughtfully written! The photos captured my interest (and promoted a moan of envy from my wife) but the story added so much depth and a much better understanding of this famous author. Bravo Jo!!!

I’m delighted you enjoyed the story, Rick. My sister and I were moaning over the photographs along with your wife. Did we really go there, we wondered. Seems like another world away now. Thank you for taking the time to send feedback. I’ll see you back on Insta soon.

This is a fabulous story! I was totally transported to the wonders of the French countryside as well as into RLS beautiful mind – his self discovery. Please keep writing wonderful stories like this. Im passing it onto my friends so that they too can enjoy it. Barbara

You have done it again. thoughtful, meticulous, informative. Love it.

I so appreciate your support Melanie. Sorry about the absence. It felt good to be back here, absorbed by the course of another life.

Thank you so much Barbara. He did have a beautiful mind – a unique person by all accounts. I’ll try to keep the stories coming!

I wanted time and a quiet moment to study this; RLS is one of the great Scottish writers. I have visited the Cevenne a few times, it is beautiful. Not too bothered by mass tourism. It suits the more discriminating visitor. Louis was physically fragile but goodness what a mind and imagination he had. His empathy with France in so far as he ‘believed that France to be the most civilised country in Europe’ is entirely in accord as my own feelings. I now print off your blogs and ring-file them; I still believe that you should find an editor/publisher. An anthology of distinguished authors would surely be sought after by teachers and students.

Bob, I am so sorry I’ve only just seen your comment. Yes, what a mind and imagination he had. I must confess, I fell a little in love with RLS when I wrote this story. And it’s such a remote and beautiful place, I felt we didn’t cover nearly enough of it and I long to return. Maybe one day.

This was terrific. I was drawn to “Travels with a Donkey” after reading Lynn Crosby’s poem, “Modestine.” Since reading that poem, I’ve been devouring all things RLS and your blog entry has me wanting to find out even more about him and his work.

It’s great you’ve enjoyed the RLS story, Jay. Thanks for letting me know and also for telling me about Lyn Crosby’s poem, which I’ve just read for the first time. It’s honestly blown me away. I’ve never come across her before and I’ll be finding out more about her work too!

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Family walking tour in France.

What is the secret to making unexplored hidden mountains accessible to a family? … a Donkey! These affectionate animals have been part of our family for as long as we can remember.

Walking tour with luggage transport.

Lakes of turquoise nesting in lush alpine meadows scattered with gentian. Breathtaking passages through a canyon with rocks the colour of red wine. Woods of stern larch trees and stark mineral peaks.

Trotting like the wolf in the Mercantour.

Wolf are you there? This journey is full of variety. Through the foot-hills and the fragrance of Provence and up to the alpine panoramas of the Mercantour National Park. From the oak to the larch; from the wheat fields to the gentian lawns; from a man-made landscape to a sweeping scenery of wilderness. .

Our mountain in the Southern French Alps.

An exceptionally unique mountain in Europe Red gold covers the ground you tread, Forests of larch trees and deserted, wild mountain tops, Wine-coloured gorges with valiant streams. These magnificent areas have been recognized as a heritage of the natural european sites of priority preservation. .

Responsible travel Preserved nature

Working towards a responsible tourism: To try to keep your ecological footprint on the mountains as light as possible. Pragmatically: make do with the means available, wherever you may be, without forgetting common sense. Not to allow yourself to be alienated by a modern view of comfort which cannot be transported to the mountains.

Walking in the Mercantour, your testimonies

Donkey walking tour

Dear Anita and team, we would like to say Thank You again for the pleasant trip we had with Leonidas! Leonidas is very kind and gentle, especially with the kids, the journey was really well organized, the mountains are beautiful, food was delicious, weather was great… We enjoyed it so much! As promised pls find attached some pictures- you may use them for your website if you like. Hope to see you again someday, Kathrin & Mario, Paula & Jakob

What was the most memorable or exciting part of your holiday? A truly special experience in a little corner of the Mercantour where time seems to have stood still. We went with the flow of life at the pace of an ambling donkey. Every detail of the trip was well thought out, and the route guidance booklet (which we carried with us all the time) was spot on. The range of different landscapes we walked through surprised and delighted us. The effectiveness of the route marking was also great. The holiday providers team was hugely welcoming and they treated us as part of the family (and such delicious food), and their outlook was inspirational. Congratulations to them on a superb set up.

Trekking with donkeys, mules and horses

Great family holidays from happy donkeys.

For us, donkeys are a way of life: we passionately believe that walking with them is therapy for the soul. We take pride in providing family holidays with a twist: your donkey travelling companion will become an unforgettable member of the family for the duration of your trip.

A Happy Donkey Tour will lead you out of hectic everyday life and into a slower, more sedate world where there is time to listen to your own footsteps. Our treks offer the opportunity to swap the hustle and bustle of the city for the tranquil landscapes of Italy’s mountains and coastlines, experienced at the unhurried pace of your donkey.

Our ten years of experience leading treks with groups of adults and children has enabled us to craft an experience that will delight a donkey-enthusiast of any age.

We provide professional guides who will lead you and your donkeys safely through Italy’s breathtaking scenery, giving you a taste of the country’s cuisine and inviting you to explore its hidden locations. Your family will get the opportunity to roam through the countryside uncovering an authentic Italy, eating homemade food using local produce, including wine, oil, lentils and sheep cheeses. The gentle pace allows guests to interact with the landscape and its attractions in an unhurried manner reminiscent of a simpler time. The donkeys are perfectly happy to carry a tired traveller along with all of the gear if unaccustomed feet grow weary of the trek.

A donkey is not just a form of transport, but a friend. We hope that we can share our passion for these beautiful beasts with you while you experience a holiday like no other with Happy Donkey Tours.

A friendly and reliable donkey is waiting patiently to begin its journey with you.

A wonderful itinerary which brings you from Serra d'Arga mountains to the sea, enjoying the different landscapes and a walk along the coastline.

This trekking is made for people who love to enjoy slow walking between olive trees with local dinner in the evening.

With its granite landscape, oak forests, traditional villages, streams and valleys, the Peneda-Gerês National Park offers great sceneries for nature lovers.

In Serra de Arga you will find traditional villages, rural agricultural practices, wild horses and stunning views,

Explore Jordania with your friends or family walking slowly accompanied by beduins. Children can enjoy the company of donkeys, they will learn how to take care of donkeys and listen fantastic stories of beduins.

2 days hiking with donkeys in Umbria, near Spoleto village

This 3 days hiking with donkeys invites you to discover the beautiful surroundings of Norcia.

5 days trekking with donkeys enjoying the beautiful landscapes of Tuscany.

3 days trekking with donkeys enjoing the beautiful landscapes of Tuscany.

5 days trek through the picturesque villages of Nera valley - Castel San Felice, Vallo di Nera, Macchia, Campi and Norcia.

This itinerary is suitable for families with children. You will stay in a nice mountain hut “Malga Zanga”, and every day you will do a different excursion from there.

5 days trekking with donkeys to discover the beautiful Valnerina valley in Umbria region.

6 days self-guided trekking with donkeys to discover the beautiful Valnerina valley in Umbria region.

This 6 day donkey trek takes you from the foot of the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Sea.

3 days together with a local guide discovering the medieval villages, Mediterranean Scrub, wineayards and olive groves.

4 days of self - guided trekking with donkeys to discover the beautiful Valnerina valley in Umbria region.

This trek is tailored to those who feel they've earned the right to take it slow during their holidays. It's all about lying down in the mountain pastures and watching the butterflies flutter by. Suitable for: families with young children, couples looking for a romantic getaway.

A wonderful three days horse trekking that allow to discover one of the most beautiful landscapes, amazing woodlands, charming meadows, stunning river valleys.

A wonderful three days horse trekking to admire the rough nature and the stunning landscapes of the Etna volcano.

Medium difficulty seven days trekking with donkeys in the amazing Mercantour National Park discovering the highest Alpine peaks, glacier lakes, mountain meadows and the rich flora and fauna.

4-day trekking during which you will have a possibility to discover the Corsican culture, local cuisine, forgotten mule trails and incredible natural beauty!

More Holiday Ideas From Our Team

The 8 best hikes in France

May 20, 2023 • 8 min read

France's best hikes weave through a mesmerizing variety of landscapes © Sander van der Werf / 500px

Hiking in France is nothing short of glorious. 

From soaring alpine peaks to billowing lavender fields and azure rivers corkscrewing down into deep canyons, France has a trail to match every mood, moment and ability. 

Our eight favorite French hikes take in everything from cloud-grazing peaks to Provence ’s drowsy, sun-kissed countryside and the wave-hammered beaches of the Basque Country. It’s time to sling on your hiking boots and hit the trails.

1. Sentier du Littoral, French Basque Country

Best coastal day hike.

25km (15.5 miles), 5–6 hours, easy

Tumbling Atlantic waves, rocky coves, countryside blanketed in maquis (scrub), and fishing villages snuggled below high cliffs provide a coastal stunner of a day hike in the French Basque Country . Forging a path between the Pyrenees and the Bay of Biscay, the Sentier du Littoral delivers one heart-lifting coastal view after another as it strides from Bidart to Hendaye via Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Highlights are plentiful: the views of the Bay of Biscay from Colline de Cenitz, the cheerful seaside buzz of St-Jean de Luz, Socoa’s chunky 17th-century fort and the dramatic cliffs of the Corniche. Follow the trail north to south for arresting sights of the Jaizkibel mountain range, the granite crown of Les Trois Couronnes and the 905m (2969ft) peak of La Rhune, topped by Neolithic dolmens and stone circles. Technically, the hike is a breeze, but, in summer in particular, pack plenty of sunscreen and water, and aim to walk in the early morning or late afternoon.

2. Chemin de Stevenson, Cévennes

Best hike for rural romance.

270km (169 miles), 2 weeks, moderate

A love letter to Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson, who trekked across the Cévennes in 1878 with his stubborn donkey Modestine, this hike is one of France’s most classic and captivating. Read about the journey beforehand from Stevenson himself in Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes . 

The route is the rural French dream, running from the forests of the Cévennes across the ragged granite Mont Lozère massif into the rolling farmland and valleys of Gévaudan and Velay. Hikers weave from Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès through forested ravines and rolling cornfields, passing ruined châteaux and stone-built hamlets, and crossing sunbaked hillsides to the soundtrack of cicadas and cowbells. 

Fiery sunsets give way to nights spent camping or sleeping at simple rural gîtes (guesthouses), as the scenery builds like a drumroll, saving the best for last – the Unesco-listed Parc National des Cévennes , bristling with beech, oak and sweet chestnut woods and scored by gorges, cliffs and rivers. This spectacularly biodiverse park is home to beavers, otters, roe deer and golden eagles.

Several ridge ascents turn what would otherwise be a gentle walk into a more challenging hike, so come prepared. Hiking the full route takes around two weeks, or you can tackle one of the individual sections.

3. Lac Blanc, Chamonix

Best hike for mountain fiends.

11km (7 miles), 5–6 hours, challenging

If you’re the kind of hiker who thinks it’s cheating to stand eye to eye with one of Europe’s most impressive mountains without breaking a sweat or getting a blister, this hike from Argentière near Chamonix to jewel-like Lac Blanc is for you.

It’s all uphill from the starting point in Tré-le-Champ in Argentière, with more than 1000m (3280ft) of rocky and rugged ascents to negotiate, and a few dizzying fixed ladders to climb. But it’s well worth it: the Lacs des Chéserys are a tantalizing prelude for sapphire-blue Lac Blanc, with its out-of-this-world view of 4808m (15,774ft) Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi.

Wildlife thrives at these craggy heights, so keep a look out for mouflon, golden eagles and ibex. The icing on the cake is getting to eat at – or even better, stay the night at – the Refuge du Lac Blanc , perched at 2352m (7717ft). You’ll need a head for heights, a decent level of fitness and good timing for this one, as it’s proper Alpine terrain. The trail is only accessible from the second half of June through to September; before or after that, as the name - White Lake - suggests, you’ll have snow to contend with.

4. GR20, Corsica

Best hike for the sheer challenge.

180km (112 miles), 2 weeks, challenging

Of the many thousands of miles of sentiers (hiking trails) spidering across France, the trek hailed as the most epic is the GR20 in Corsica . This two-week, into-the-wild, no-holds-barred, knee-crunching monster sends a shiver down the spine of even the most experienced hiker. Perhaps the most surprising thing is that this beast of a hike exists on a Mediterranean island where many flock to chill on the beach .

But it’s a beauty, too. Traversing the island from Calenzana to Conca, north of Porto Vecchio, it delivers non-stop drama, from deep ravines to glacial lakes, granite crags to wind-battered craters, peat bogs to snowy peaks and plains to forests. 

This is one of Europe’s toughest trails , and the terrain is hardcore, with plenty of steep climbs, exposed scrambles and slippery crossings.

Some planning is required as you’ll be drawing water from springs and sleeping in mountain refuges. Note that wild camping is officially not permitted, but people may casually turn a blind eye if you’re discreet and gone by sunrise. The whole route takes two weeks; it may well break both your back and soul, but you’ll be raving about it forever.

5. Tour du Mont Blanc, France, Switzerland, Italy

Best long-distance hike.

180km (112 miles), 10–14 Days, moderate-challenging

The hugely popular Tour du Mont Blanc whisks you through some of the most jaw-dropping scenery in France , Switzerland and Italy as it circumnavigates the gnarly, snow-polished peaks of the Mont Blanc massif. A test of grit and stamina, the trail twists up to sky-high passes, grazes glaciers and wild rivers, and plunges hikers into remote valleys and meadows bursting with wildflowers.

Nights spent camping under starry skies or digging into a warm meal at a rustic mountainside hut. You'll also relish peachy sunrises and sunsets, and the chance to glimpse altitude-loving wildlife such as marmots, chamois and ibex.

The tour is accessible from late June to early September, but do come prepared for wild weather at all times; conditions can change at the drop of a hat. There’s no need for technical gear (crampons, ropes, etc), but bring warm layers, waterproofs and solid boots.

Starting and finishing in Les Houches near Chamonix , the trail is best hiked clockwise to acclimatize for the tougher climbs towards the end. Planning is essential as the mountain huts get booked out months ahead.

6. Sentier des Ocres, Roussillon

Best hike in provence for families.

1.5km (0.9 miles), 1 hour, easy

With its spectacularly eroded rock formations, blushing a color chart of reds from dusky pink to rusty terracotta, this canyon in Roussillon in Provence feels more like the American Wild West - especially beneath a pure blue sky.

This former quarry was once for ochre mining, but today it is the cinematic backdrop for a short but astonishingly lovely circular trail, which weaves through a desert-like landscape of cliffs and ridges and groves of chestnut and pine.

This is an ideal short hike for families and has information panels on local plants and wildlife. Wear solid walking shoes and avoid white clothes as you'll get pretty dusty. Walk the route from mid-February to December.

7. Puy de Dôme, Massif Central

Best volcano hike.

6km (3.7 miles), 1½ hours, moderate

The area that makes up France’s midriff remains sorely overlooked by hikers, but Auvergne ’s long-extinct volcanoes are a geological and visual treat. These ancient mounds that last blew their top more than 7000 years ago still crumple the landscape, while green blanketed countryside gives way to granite plateaus and glacier-sculpted valleys.

Find here the vast Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne , and within it the Unesco World Heritage-listed Chaîne des Puys, a 40km (25-mile) string of cinder cones and lava domes. The showstopper is 1465m (4806ft) Puy de Dôme.

Many will jump on the rack railway to reach the top, leaving keen hikers to enjoy the peace of the Chemin de Muletiers: a short, steep old mule trail that hoists its way up wooden steps and along wildflower-fringed paths to the summit. This trail has been hiked for millennia, as pilgrims once used it to reach the Gallo-Roman Temple de Mercure that now lies in ruins at the top.

8. Blanc-Martel Trail, Gorges du Verdon

Best canyon hike.

16km (10 miles), 6–7 hours, moderate

One of France’s most stirring natural wonders is the Gorges du Verdon , where limestone cliffs razor above the startlingly turquoise Verdon River as it carves its way through the plateau to the Alps . In the shadows and hush of early morning, the canyon is utterly peaceful, enclosed by walls of rock reaching up to 700m (2297ft). Yet listen carefully, and you may hear the screech of a golden eagle wheeling overhead.

The canyon can be admired from many viewpoints and picnic spots, but the way to truly get the measure of Verdon is to hike the Blanc-Martel Trail, which twists and turns through the gorge and down to the river. Later, the route sneaks along trails scored into the high canyon walls, occasionally dipping into a tunnel (bring a torch), traversing a bridge or teetering up a flight of wooden steps. It’s a proper day-long adventure, with the odd steep descent and ascent thrown into the mix.

As the hike is point-to-point, you’ll need to think about transport. The best option is to start your walk at Chalet de la Maline in La Palud-sur-Verdon and end at Point Sublime, where you can take a shuttle bus back to the trailhead. The gorge gets as hot as an oven in summer, so get a nice early start and bring plenty of sunscreen and water.

This article was first published July 2020 and updated May 2023

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10 Best Treks in France

Quick navigation, trekking in france, tour du mont blanc, gr 10: french pyrenees, gr 49 from saint-raphael to rougon, gr 21 littoral de normandie, gr 70 chemin de stevenson, gr 20 corsica, walker’s haute route, gr 57 tour du mont thabor, mare a mare sud, best treks in the world, join our newsletter.

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France ranks at the top of the list of the most-visited countries in the world—and for good reason. Not only do travellers flock here for wine, culture, and architectural wonders lining cobblestone streets, they come here to dip into nature. Thanks to the Alps lining its backdrop, France boasts some of the most memorable hiking adventures in the world! Want to embark on a long-distance walk and explore another side of this beloved country? Sift through the ten best treks in France below and find an adventure that suits your walking style.

Find a range of long-distance walking adventures carved all over France. The most popular alpine trekking hub is Chamonix, a platform for the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Walker’s Haute Route. Not into hiking mountain slopes? Head to Normandy to walk the GR 21, an otherworldly coastal adventure with limestone cliffs and salted sea air. When researching your ideal walking route in France, you’ll also discover routes covering various distances. For example, anyone seeking the ultimate long-distance exploration will want to look into the GR 10. Cross the French Pyrenees along a trail linking the Atlantic and Mediterranean coast.

Find your ideal trekking route below!

It would be strange to kick off the ten best treks in France with any hike other than the incredible Tour du Mont Blanc. Marvel at the European Alps as you walk through three countries flanking the towering Mont Blanc Massif. Pass through France, Italy, and Switzerland for the ultimate border-hopping hiking experience! Most trekkers aim to traverse 15.0 km a day, but don’t worry; the mesmerizing peaks, vibrant meadows, and hanging glaciers will keep you entertained. Location: Starts and ends in Les Houches Distance: 170.0 km Time: 8-11 days When to do: June-September

Traverse the rugged, uninterrupted Pyrenees, a lofty mountain range dividing France and Spain. The GR 10 traverses the French Pyrnees, connecting the Atlantic and Mediterranean coast. Start your route exploring lush landscapes, followed by a more rugged middle section. Then, revel in the blue skies mirroring the Mediterranean hues as you approach the end. Most people walk from Hendaye, the Atlantic side, towards the Mediterranean, Banyuls. Location: Hendaye to Banyuls-sur-Mer Distance: 1,100.0 km Time: 45-60 days When to do: July-September

Don’t let the 100.0 km distance fool you into thinking this long-distance hike will be a simple walk in the park! The GR49 is one of the more challenging adventures on this list due to its steep gradient. En route, discover epic natural scenery, such as the Saint-Cassien Lake in the Var and Verdon Regional Natural Park. Most hikers generally complete this route in six stages! Location: Saint-Raphael to Rougon Distance: 100.0 km Time: 6 days When to do: April-October

Discover the scenic white cliffs jetting over the sea along the fantasy-like beaches of Normandy on GR 21. Fun fact: in 2019, the French voted this long-distance route as the best in France! Perhaps the blend of a more accessible hiking path with the unique beachfront scenery towering along the Alabaster Coast skyrocketed this trek to first place.

The limestone cliffs beautifully complement the blue sea, grey pebble beaches, and lush greenery, painting this tremendous route! Location: Le Havre to Le Treport Distance: 187.0 km Time: 12 days When to do: April to October

Step into the pages of a fairytale on the romantic GR 70: Chemin de Stevenson. In 1878, Robert Louis Stevenson walked through Cévennes with Modestine, his donkey. He weaved through farmland, forests, valleys, and Mont Lozere. This charming trekking journey invites you to fall in love with nature and simpler pleasures! Spend your evenings basking in golden beams, followed by quiet hours in your tent or guesthouse in a quaint, rural setting. Location: Le Puy-en-Velay (Haute-Loire) to Ales (Gard) Distance: 268.0 km Time: 12-15 days When to do: May to October

Craving a strenuous long-distance hiking experience? The GR20 in Corsica will suck the breath right out of your lungs! Some dub this 180.0 km adventure the most challenging trail in Europe, making it inevitable to train before setting foot on the path. Expect steep ascents over several kilometres and some technical terrain underfoot. Thankfully, the blood, sweat, and tears will fade once panoramic sea views spill into your sightline. You'll also find some reprieve in hidden lakes tucked below mountain slopes! Location: Calenzana to Conca Distance: 180.0 km Time: 14 days When to do: June to September

The GR51 travels away from the shimmering Mediterranean blues, carving through a more calm inland journey. Hikers should mentally prepare for the trail to launch into an ascent at the beginning. However, at the top, your lungs will relax as you admire the surrounding views for most of the journey (once in a while, you will dip back into the valley before returning up). The GR51 is an excellent way to ditch the tourists flocking to the area in the summer for a more secluded experience! Location: Menton to Marseille Distance: Just over 500.0 km Time: 30-35 days When to do: April to June or September

The Walker’s Haute Route sets out from Chamonix, France, but spends much time traversing through Switzerland, which means elevated prices. Therefore, it’s best to budget beforehand, as the daily costs might drain your wallet. If you’re short on time or want to skip some sections, you can always walk alternative routes or take public transport. Expect wild scenery replete with soaring peaks and sloping valleys. Location: Chamonix, France, to Zermatt, Switzerland Distance: 213.0 km Time: 10 to 12 days When to do: Mid-July to mid-September

Only have a couple of days to spare? Consider tackling the GR 57 Tour du Mont Thabor, a challenging route that cuts through a more hidden, lesser-known area of the French Alps. The Tour du Mont Thabor attracts nature lovers seeking a more remote, less crowded hiking experience. You won’t find ski slopes or crowded tourist spots along this unspoiled route! Location: Starts and ends in Nevache Distance: 85.0 km Time: 5 days When to do: June to October

Enjoy a taste of the sea and mountains on the Mare a Mare Sud long-distance walk. Most walkers complete the Mare a Mare Sud in five days, encountering quaint villages, streams, sea views, and bushland. You will meet some narrow, mountainous sections with slippery gravel underfoot, but, for the most part, the Mare a Mare Sud is a more chilled-out long-distance walk compared to most others on this list. Location: Porto-Vecchio to Propriano (Corsica) Distance: 77.0 km Time: 5 days When to do: April to October

Looking to explore some of the World’s best treks outside of France? Check out the rest of the articles in our Best Treks series, where we highlight all of the best treks around the world to help you plan your upcoming long-distance adventures!

• 8 Best Multi Day Hikes in Iceland
• 10 Best Multi Day Hikes in Canada
• 10 Best Long Distance Hikes in the United States
• 10 Greatest Multi Day Hikes in Europe
• Africa's Best Treks
• 10 Best Long Distance Walks in the UK
• 10 Amazing Treks in Asia
• Australia’s Greatest Thru-Hikes
• 10 Spectacular Long Distance Hikes in New Zealand
• 10 Best Pilgrimage Routes
• 10 Best Treks in the Mediterranean
• 8 Best Treks in Italy

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