g3 tour 1997

The G3, the blessed events that gather together 3 guitar legends on stage. Since 1996, Joe Satriani, and his friends are promoting the Rock music across the five continents.

Since the first tour in 1996, they were 3 G3 albums , in CD and DVD . The very first line-up featured on the first record in 1996, with Joe Satriani, Steve Vai and Eric Johnson. In 2004 Yngwie Malmsteen joined the band with Joe Satriani and Steve Vai, then in 2005 came the turn to John Petrucci to jam with the regulars Joe Satriani and Steve.

G3 Live In Tokyo

G3 Rockin’ In The Free World

G3 Live In Concert

G3 band history.

The idea for G3 came from Joe Satriani . The concept? Gather together three of the best guitar players of the moment on the same stage. The show takes place in four steps. First of all, each player plays a set of his own and finally they congregate for a big jam and play a selection of rock and rlues standards. Since 1996 the G3 show has been touring all over 5 continents , promoting the electric guitar wherever they go, bringing the rock spirit with them, bringing the will of sharing with people melodies that come in the heat of the moment, meeting people and showing the best they can do together. That’s the purpose of the G3 , to keep on rocking in a free world.

“ For me, G3 is the best kind of competition, where nobody holds back and each guy brings his best. It heightens the experience on stage, and the fans pick up on it. We push each other, and you can only do that with friends, you can’t do it with adversaries.  The G3 ethic is competition, but it’s sharing, too, and that’s what makes the show really exciting. We want to give the fans something incredible. To do that, you have to be willing to walk out on the ledge. And face it, on any given night, somebody is going to play better. That’s just the way it is. ”

Joe Satriani.

The 1996 G3

The first G3 experience was 1996 and the line-up was Eric Johnson , Steve Vai and of course Joe Satriani . The jam songs were « Going Down » from Jeff Beck and Freddie King, « My Guitar Wants To Kill Your Mama » from the genius Frank Zappa and, (it’s common sense), a Jimi Hendrix song: « Red House ». Despite the short life span of the project, some of the best guitar entertainers have occasionally joined the final jam. Neal Schon on the very first gig in San Francisco, Gary Hoey two days later in San Diego but also Chris Duarte in Austin & San Antonio, George Lynch in Phoenix and the great Andy Timmons in Dallas.

This original line-up did no fewer than 17 gigs in USA and the new concept had success. The next year the first CD/VHS/DVD G3 – Live In Concert  was released and it immortalized the best of the performances from 4 shows from October 30th to November 2nd.

Number of gigs

• My Guitar Wants To Kill Your Mama

The 1997 G3

Because of the success of the G3 on the previous year the G3 was back again in 1997 and for the first time Joe crossed the atlantic to land in Europe! Adrian Legg had succeeded Eric Johnson and the G3 ran gigs from May 23th to June 6th, going by Rotterdam, Londres, Nottingham, Hambourg, Dusseldorf, Stuttgart, Milan, Zurich and Paris as usual in front of thousands of people. Then they crossed back over the ocean to make 2 tours.

The first one was in the Americas Northeast and Midwest and began in Quebec with four guitarists instead of three for the first gig, Joe Satriani , Steve Vai , Robert Fripp and Michel Cusson . Then the tour continued for the first time without Steve Vai because the line-up was Joe Satriani , Kenny Wayne Shepherd and Robert Fripp . Michel Cusson was there just for a couple of gigs before Kenny Wayne joined for the rest of the tour. The second tour turned on some G4 during the 16 gigs that were held in the USA (including one in Vancouver, Canada) with Joe Satriani , Steve Vai , Kenny Wayne Shepherd and Robert Fripp . The public in Sacramento had the chance to see Mike Scott on the final jam, the same for Dallas audience members who also had the surprise appearance of Andy Timmons joining the others at the end of the show.

On the penultimate gig at the brand new House Of Blues in Orlando, the legendary band Deep Purple (with Ian Gillan, Roger Glover, Ian Paice and Steve Morse) joined the party and that was the first appearance of Steve Morse on the project! Finally, the last gig of the year turned into a crazy G6 for the Jam when Mike Keneally, who was touring on keyboards with Steve Vai, and Joe Nadeau the guitar player for Kenny Wayne joined the others in Miami to finish 1997 in proper form.

• Levee Break
• My Guitar Wants to Kill Your Mama

The 1998 G3

The 1998 tour was exclusively for Europe with no fewer than 27 gigs where Michael Schenker and Uli Jon Roth , both guitar players for the Scorpions at different times, came to joining Joe Satriani on stage. Brian May came in as guest star for the London show like Keith More had been for Glasgow, Birmingham and Croydon. Uli Jonn Roth passed the baton to the French player Patrick Rondat for the 10 French shows. On the solo part of the french shows Joe played only songs from the Crystal Planet album : « Time », « Light Of Heaven », « Raspberry Jam Delta-V », « Up In The Sky ».

There were only two songs for the final jam, being the classic « Going Down » and « Voodoo Child » from Jimi Hendrix. They were well chosen because all the guitar players were influenced by Jimi Hendrix. Joe, of course, Rondat but above all Uli Jon Roth.

• The Thrill Is Gone
• Voodoo Child

The 2000 G3

In the year 2000 there was only one single gig for G3 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on October 21st. That was the first G3 in Oceania and for this occasion the first line-up from 1996, Joe Satriani , Steve Vai and Eric Johnson  were on stage for the famous festival Rhythm Of Asia .

The 2001-2002 G3

In 2001 John Petrucci from Dream Theater and Liquid Tension Experiment made his first appearance as well as the regulars Joe Satriani and Steve Vai . The same year Steve Lukather from Toto and Paul Gilbert from Racer X and Mr Big came on stage for the final jam in Los Angeles, the legend Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top joined them in Houston, Andy Timmons in Fort Worth, Eric Johnson in Austin, Neil Schon in Detroit and finally Steve Morse came back again in Orlando.

The tour began in June and continued until May 2002 in the USA, Mexico and Canada for a total of 33 shows.

• Little Wing

The 2003 G3

2003 had been a good year for guitar fans. G3 – Rockin’ In The Free World , the double CD/DVD starring Joe Satriani , Steve Vai and the virtuoso Yngwie Malmsteen , was released in 2004. The gig was recorded in Denver right in the middle of a very condensed tour of 31 gigs from mid-October to mid-November. Among the songs that were selected for the final jam were two Jimi’s, « Voodoo Child » and « Little Wing », « Rockin’ In The Free World » from Neil Young was the next one. We haven’t forgotten the presence of Johnny Hiland who got up on keyboards at the Ryman Auditorium from Nashville and brought a sweet country touch that was never heard in a G3 before. That was the same year that Joe’s band, which had been composed of three members, went to four with Galen Henson, who had made his first appearance on rhythm guitar.

• Rockin’ in the Free World

The 2004 G3

South America and Europe had the exclusive tour for G3 in 2004. 27 gigs were played in Europe in the summer, including the international guitar festival of Patrimonio  in Corsica. A lot of countries were visited during the summer, the most visited one was the UK with 7 gigs where Robert Fripp  joined Steve Vai and Joe Satriani .

In Sound America, the same lineup performed by the end of the year for 3 gigs in Brasil and Argentina, and 2 others in Chile where Alejandro Silva was invited by Joe to join the jam, and in Mexico. Tony MacAlpine who was the rhythm guitar player for Steve Vai was invited on the tour to join the final jam.

• The Murderer

The 2005 G3

Joe Satriani , Steve Vai and John Petrucci  were G3 in 2005 and played 5 single gigs exclusively for Japan. This made the Japanese fans happy because it was the first time that the G3 came to their country and it was very productive because a new CD/DVD was recorded on this mini-tour, the well-named  G3 – Live In Tokyo . Brand new songs has been chosen for the final jam, A Jimi Hendrix one was still included with « Foxy Lady » and they added two songs that marked Rock history, « La Grange » from ZZ Top and « Smoke on the Water » from Deep Purple. This last song echoes the fact that Joe was touring the same year with Deep Purple. Marty Friedman had also been invited to the first jam in Tokyo.

• Smoke On The Water

The 2006 G3

Joe Satriani made two G3 tours by the year 2006. The first one was in Latin America where Eric Johnson was back along with John Petrucci who confirmed the success of his last year presence and who would continue later, and of course Joe Satriani .

Brasil, Argentina, Mexico and Chile enjoyed a total of 9 gigs. Then, across the pacific ocean and for the first time the G3 landed in Australia to play 6 cities! The songs that were played for the final jam were not new but are still the most influential songs of ZZ Top and Deep Purple, as you may have noticed « La Grange » and « Smoke On The Water » and a classic Hendrix that Joe loves, « Foxy Lady ».

The 2007 G3

In 2007 Paul Gilbert headed the line-up for the first time together with Joe Satriani and John Petrucci . The 26 gigs from this tour went from March to April in the USA including four gigs in Canada with the outstanding presence of Johnny A to the Boston jam.

The jam songs that year were « Going Down » again, « Jumpin’ Jack Flash » from the Stones and a Hendrix song featured as usual. It depended on the show. They had to choose between «  Foxy Lady  », «  Purple Haze  », «  Voodoo Child  » and «  Third Stone From the Sun  ». One last fact is that, despite what we may read on some encyclopedia websites, Herman Li never did a G3 that year, he was only there for some jams for NAMM 2008.

• Foxy Lady | Purple Haze | Voodoo Child | Third Stone From the Sun
• Jumpin’Flash

The 2012 G3

And we had to wait until 2012, 5 years after the last show, to see a G3 on board again. Steve Lukather was on the bill with Joe Satriani and Steve Vai . Joe saw him play with his solo project at the Guitare en Scène  French festival a year earlier and he invited him to join him. Joe had gone to New Zealand and Oceania with the two Steves for 8 gigs before flying to Europe, where he kept the Joe/Steve/Steve formula but they changed Steve Lukather for Steve Morse for 10 shows. Al Di Meola was also invited in Prague for an incredible jam.

Then they went back to South America and Joe Satriani , John Petrucci and Steve Morse  did the shows. They went in Brasil, Argentina, Chile, Venezuela and Mexico and for the last gig in Mexico Steve Morse gave back his place to Steve Lukather ! And the third Steve was on tour by the way.

Number of G3 shows ever played: 244

The G3 Headliners

Joe satriani.

Eric Johnson

Adrian Legg

Michel Cusson

Robert Fripp

Kenny Wayne Shepherd

Michael Schenker

Uli Jon Roth

Patrick Rondat

John Petrucci

Yngwie Malmsteen

Paul Gilbert

Steve Morse

Steve Lukather

Invited to final jam

Chris duarte, george lynch, andy timmons, mike keneally, billy gibbons, johnny hiland, alejandro silva, tony macalpine, marty friedman, al di meola, joe’s line-up over the years, from 1996 to 2002.

Joe Satriani: guitar Stu Hamm: bass Jeff Campitelli:  drums

From 2003 to 2005

Joe Satriani: guitar Galen Henson: rhythm guitar Matt Bissonnette: bass Jeff Campitelli: drums

From 2006 to 2007

Joe Satriani: guitar Galen Henson: rhythm guitar Dave Larue: bass Jeff Campitelli: drums

Andy Timmons says hello 🙂

Joe Satriani: guitar Mike Keneally: keyboards Galen Henson: rhythm guitar Allen Whitman: bass Jeff Campitelli: drums

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Satriani, Johnson, Vai G 3 Live In Concert ( 1997)

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Uploaded by oasis radiohead on August 5, 2022

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A 1997 Soundscapes tour bundle is now available on the site. These are taken from the G3 tour (Robert Fripp, Steve Vai, Joe Satriani). This is an 11 date tour, from which 9 dates are available: 6 newly added and 3 that where already on the website (19th, 21st, and 30th of June).

Each date is available individually and as part of the complete tour bundle.

From Sid Smith's notes: If Frippertronics traded in quickly-resolving themes that served up a kind of instant gratification, his soundscapes are the very opposite; their glacial pace enabling the sweet melodies to graciously unfurl in an slo-mo ecstasy.

Download and more information:

June 19th · Meadows Music Theatre, Hartford June 20th · Jones Beach Ampitheatre, Wantaugh June 21st · PNC Art Centre, Holmdel NJ June 22nd · Harbourlights Pavilion, Boston June 24th · Nautica Stage, Cleveland June 25th · Finger Lakes Arts Center, New York June 26th · New Pine Knob Music Theatre, Clarkston June 29th · Riviera, Chicago June 30th · Northrup Auditorium, Minneapolis

Soundscapes

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A new Soundscapes tour bundle is now available on the site. These are taken from the G3 tour (Steve Vai, Joe Satriani, Robert Fripp)  This is an 11 date tour, from which 9 dates are available: 6  newly added and 3 that where already on the website (19th, 21st, and 30th of June).

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Songs played by tour: G3 1997 Tour

This table lists how often a song was performed by Joe Satriani during the tour "G3 1997 Tour". Multiple performances from the same setlist are also counted towards the total.

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Here's a list of shows played on the tour.

• A 48 Hour Guide To...

A 48 Hour Guide to Astrakhan, Russia

Travellers who venture into Astrakhan will enjoy the historical charm and cultural vibrancy of this old Silk Route town. The otherworldly Lake Baskunchak and extensive Delta wetlands are just a day trip away.

Astrakhan lies close to the Kazakhstan border where the Volga River flows into the Caspian Sea. It used to be a town on the old Silk Route and is built on more than 10 islands. Meander along canals and over bridges to soak up ancient Tatar, Christian and Islamic history. Venture into the surrounding countryside to enjoy the splendour of the Volga Delta wetlands and the region’s natural beauty.

Day one – Acquaint yourself with the city

Morning – Explore local history

Start the day by taking a walk through the Kryusha Quarter. It’s the city’s former Tatar and Persian area, and it remains a predominantly Muslim area. As such, there are clusters of mosques in various states of neglect and repair.

Starting at Ulitsa Kirova, walk along Kazanskaya Ulitsa until you reach a Lenin bust. If you cross over the canal, you’ll come across a well-kept park, complete with sculptures and a lake. Continue past it, and you’ll end up at the foot of the hill where the city’s Kremlin sits on top. A UNESCO World Heritage site with inviting gardens and temporary exhibitions, the Kremlin is not to be missed.

Pro tip: The Kryusha Quarter is fascinating to walk through, but it is still a little rough. It is fine to walk through during the day, but it is best to avoid it at night.

Afternoon – Discover Astrakhan’s cool hidey-holes

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Once you’re finished at the Kremlin, cut through the Fraternal Gardens to the city’s hipster hangout, Rozmarin Cafe , and fill up on freshly cooked meals and refuel with strong coffee. Once revived, take a peek at the Museum of Military Glory, which is as patriotic as the name suggests. However, despite the museum’s nationalistic slant, it is a good place to learn about historical battles.

Afterwards, it is worth walking over to Moloko, a hip, modern canteen-style café, which is run by the same people as Rozmarin Cafe. Even if you’re still full from lunch, they are licensed. So, why not have a cheeky afternoon drink and a snack?

From Moloko , it’s another lazy stroll along the banks of the Kutum River to the banks of the Volga – the manicured riverfront is the city’s crowning glory. There are people to watch, sculptures to see, and sunsets to enjoy.

Evening – Enjoy riverside views

After all of that walking about, treat yourself to a delicious meal. Right on the waterfront, Yamato is an indulgent, top-notch Japanese restaurant. The menu offers Japanese dishes, sushi, pan-Asian and Asian-fusion meals, as well as a lot of classic European and Russian cuisine. And it’s not just the food that is good here – so is the decor, inspired by Japanese minimalism and traditional aesthetics.

Pro tip: Yamato is popular. Book a reservation or be prepared to wait for a little while.

Night – Embrace the local culture

For those who want to sample some high-brow culture, why not check out what ballet is showing? The Astrakhan State Theatre of Opera and Ballet may not have the same clout as other regional theatres, but like most ballet and opera in Russia, they are still done to an outstanding standard.

For those who want to kick on, take the short stroll over to Kul’tovyy Bar (Cult Bar) for dim lighting, live music and boozy drinks. It also serves reasonably priced food. After loading up on positive vibes, belt out a few tunes with new friends at any of the many karaoke bars in town, such as Chicago House.

Whatever time the night ends, rest your well-worn legs at the luxurious Novomoskovskaya Hotel , a 10-minute walk away from Kul’tovyy Bar. Sleeping options are limited in Astrakhan, but they are also affordable, which means this five-star hotel comes with a bargain price tag. It’s also right in the heart of the city, so the Kremlin and the central sights are all within walking distance.

Day two – Soak up the Astrakhan region’s beauty

Morning – Venture out to the great outdoors

Although the city still has plenty to offer, a trip to the surrounding countryside is a must. Around Astrakhan , the Volga River splinters off into thousands of streams and rivers, known as the Volga Delta Wetlands. The wetlands, filled with birds and animals, are lush and an adventure to explore.

Roads eventually peter out and make way for rivers and marshes. The further you explore the wetlands, the more likely you’ll need a boat. A trip into the wetlands is a day trip in itself, so don’t plan to cram too many countryside sights into your itinerary.

Pro tip: Many tour companies offer trips into the wetlands, so shop around to find a deal that you like. Parts of the area are protected, so tourists need a permit. Tourist agencies in Astrakhan can help you organise these. Procosta is a tour company that offers trips into the delta with a guide, and only Procosta tours can be taken without one of these permits.

Afternoon – Float in salty water

An alternative day trip is to Lake Baskunchak, near the Kazakhstan border. One of Russia’s major salt basins, it supplies the nation with approximately 80 percent of its salt. Back in the day, people used to flock here to reap the health benefits of the salty water and the clay, and legend has it that it is a place of healing. Despite, or because of, its otherworldly appearance and its far-flung locale, it remains a popular tourist destination, albeit an unusual one.

A swim in the lake is comparable to a dip in the Dead Sea , although many swimmers bring shoes because prickly salt covers the bottom of the lake-bed. The lake used to be an important stop on the Silk Route, as its seemingly endless supply of salt has long been a precious commodity.

Pro tip: Make sure you pack a picnic, plenty of fresh water and sunscreen because there aren’t any trees around the lake.

Evening – Feast on traditional dishes

All that country air will induce hunger that must be satiated. So, head straight to Mindal (which translates to Almond) to feast on steaming hot Georgian khachapuri and Uzbek pilaf and other drool-inducing dishes. A top restaurant in town, Mindal serves up hearty central Asian and Caucasian dishes in a casual, yet stylish setting – a perfect treat to end a long day spent on the road and in the great outdoors.

Night – Relax with a beer

Mindal has a licensed bar that also serves up hookahs, so if you are suffering from a post-pigout food coma, and are exhausted from the day, hang around and enjoy yourself for a little bit longer. But if you want a change of scenery, visit Akademiya Piva, (Beer Academy). This restaurant and brewery is not only a stumble away from the hotel, but it is an opportunity to try a local brew or two. Of their five house-made beers, one is brewed in the style of the iconic Soviet beer, Zhigulevskoye.

Pro tip: If you want to relax after dinner at Mindal, book a booth table and make yourself comfortable. Also, for those on a budget, Akademiya Piva serves pub grub at a reasonable price.

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I visited Astrakhan, the Russian MELTING POT of religions and ETHNICITIES (PHOTOS)

When we entered the ATR-72 twin engine turboprop aircraft for our evening flight from Sochi to Astrakhan, my friend Olga and I were a bit surprised to see the ethnic mix of passengers on board. Nordic, Southern European, Caucasian, Central Asian, West Asian and “typical Russian” features were all visible on the two-hour flight to the city by the Volga. As we were to find out over the next three days, Astrakhan, which has a population of 526,000, is home to members of 104 of Russia’s 120 ethnicities. 

Ajay and his friend Olga on a cold morning

The small airport is just a 15-minute drive away from the city center and we were lucky to find an apartment in a well maintained Stalin-era building literally across the street from the Astrakhan kremlin.  

Walk around the city at night  

Our first task was to try out the much-hyped Caspian cuisine of the city.  Although it was only 9:30 pm on a Friday, the beautifully landscaped area that is near Lenin Square and borders the Kremlin was almost empty. Tastefully lit, the area had a distinct Mediterranean feel. With a bearable cold breeze and crystal clear air, I found the surroundings to be romantic, but my travel partner said she had an eerie feeling, since we hadn’t seen any others in the street. 

As we walked towards the riverside, we found our first Caspian-themed restaurant. Olga managed to calm down over a bottle of white wine and some local delicacies, such as sturgeon from the Volga Delta and ukha , which many restaurants label as the Tsar’s fish soup in their English menus.  

Astrakhan at night

The main activity at night in Astrakhan revolves around the streets leading to the Volga riverfront. This is where the youth of the city go clubbing or bar hopping. There were signs of nightlife in this stretch of the city, but we had seen far bigger crowds in much smaller Russian cities. Locals later told us that they took the pandemic more seriously than their counterparts in other parts of the country and, hence, there were so few people on the streets. 

Feel the diversity on display at the Kremlin 

On my first morning in the city, I set off on an exploratory run and was absolutely impressed with the city center. The square that was empty the previous night was a hub of exercise and sporting activity. Under clear blue skies and warm sun, I saw well-looked after flower beds and trees that had leaves of every fall color. The season of colors had come and gone from the northern parts of Russia in a hurry in 2021, but Astrakhan was still in mid-fall mode in November.  

Church in the Astrakhan kremlin

Later that morning, we decided to explore the impressive white Kremlin that towers over the city center. Standing on the Zayachy Hill, this massive fortress was originally built in the late 16th century and has been modified a few times since. Entry to the Kremlin, which opens at 7 am, is free and there are stalls where you can buy local handicrafts. I couldn’t resist buying a handcrafted wooden fridge magnet with an engraved image of this ancient fortress.  

The Kremlin is a great place to just roam around or sit on a bench and enjoy the great historical ambience, like many locals do, but we wanted to know more about this fascinating and well-preserved monument. So, we took a guided tour of the complex - in a golf cart! The modern-day Astrakhan Region was contested between various groups and empires until the middle of the 16th century, when it became a part of the southward-expanding Russian Empire. A knowledgeable guide shared many historical facts about the Kremlin and the city with us. 

After our tour, we were in for an unexpected audio visual treat. As the sun fought the grey fall clouds and warmed up the temperature to 18°C and the bells tolled from the Assumption Cathedral, a group of teenagers in various ethnic costumes came to the area near the church. Over the next 20 minutes, the colorful group performed a series of dances that reflected the cultures of various ethnic groups who call Astrakhan home.  

Astrakhan's Assumption Cathedral

We first saw a Russian folk dance, followed by a Tatar dance and then a performance of the indigenous peoples who inhabit Astrakhan Region. We were lucky to be in the Kremlin on the day the city was marking Russian National Unity Day . 

This ethnic diversity can be seen everywhere in Astrakhan, but nowhere it is more visible than in restaurants and bars, where you see groups of people from different backgrounds socialising and making merry.  

Ajay at the Astrakhan kremlin

Astrakhan is also known for its religious diversity. We went to two recently-renovated mosques that are just outside the historic city center. Non-Muslims are allowed to visit at non-prayer times. There seemed to be a strong Persian influence in the interior of these mosques, which is not surprising, given the fact that Iran is just across the Caspian Sea. The city also has an Iranian consulate and a Russian-Iranian banking joint venture. Some of the stores in the city sell imported Iranian candy. 

During our three-day stay in the city, we had a chance to get acquainted with people from Dagestan, Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan. For those from other Caspian states, Astrakhan is seen as a logical entry point to Russia. In fact, several students from former Soviet countries study in the city.  

Enjoy the unique architecture  

The most interesting feature of Astrakhan is that no two streets in the historic center seem to resemble each other. A street full of early 1900s brownish-red brick structures is cut in half by a thoroughfare that has buildings that are a mix of Art Nouveau, Renaissance and Classicist architecture! Similarly, a walk by the outer walls of the 16th century Kremlin offers views of 19th century buildings that seem to have been transplanted from St. Petersburg.  

Tastefully restored building in Astrakhan

Long-term residents say many of the heritage structures in the city were in a state of disrepair, until a decade ago, when Russian President Vladimir Putin took a personal interest in reviving the city, given its strategic location close to the Caspian Sea.  

The victory of the Soviet Union in the Battle of Stalingrad and the resulting halt of German troops advances into southern Russia helped save the older buildings of Astrakhan during World War II. The radius around the Kremlin and riverfront are European in character, but once you cross the canal, a totally different side of the city opens up. These areas have ethnic Persian and Tatar localities, locally known as ‘sloboda’. One gets a feeling of crossing over into an altogether different century when strolling past these areas with their wooden cottages and cosy courtyards.  

While there is a strong sense of community here, the area is lower middle class and, unfortunately, did not seem to have any ethnic Tatar or Persian-style cafes. We were told that the best place to sample this kind of food was the Tatar Bazar, which we could not visit. Locals in these ethnic enclaves apparently preferred to either cook at home or eat at food courts in shopping malls.  

A wooden house outside the center (L); One of Astrakhan's older churches

The classical Russian neighbourhoods in Astrakhan have a wide array of dining options, including an elegant restaurant named ‘Onegin’ (named after Alexander Pushkin’s famous novel in verse ‘Eugene Onegin’), which has 19th century style interiors, chandeliers, paintings of the greats of Russian literature and plays the music of Russian composers Rachmaninoff and Tchaikovsky. Plenty of other restaurants are themed around the Caspian Sea.  

Spend an evening by the Volga 

It goes without saying that the best place to spend an evening in the city is the riverside promenade. Runners, bicyclists, families, university students and pensioners all converge on this stretch in the early evening, as another day heads off into the night.  

The small islands that are visible from the promenade are home to a variety of birds that rush to find shelter in the trees before nightfall. As the river runs south towards the Caspian, nature is absolutely breathtaking. Visitors to Astrakhan in the warmer months often head to the Volga Delta, which is a biodiversity hotspot and home to various species of flora and fauna.   

We made it a point to catch the sunset by the Volga twice during our brief visit. Few experiences in Russia compare with seeing the red sun set behind the country’s most iconic river. The ensuing twilight paints the skies of Astrakhan with a unique shade of crimson.  

Astrakhan with Olga

Standing by the riverfront on my last evening in the city, my gaze went to the left, where some 100 kilometers south the great Volga empties into the Caspian Sea. This area has always been a major transit point connecting north and south, east and west. For several hundred years, it was the intersection of the east-west trade route north of the Caspian Sea and the north-south trade route down the Volga to Persia. I couldn’t help but think how the city had the potential to become a major business, logistics and tourism hub, if Russia, India, Iran and the Caspian littoral countries put a fresh impetus on developing the International North-South Corridor.   

Astrakhan, as it is, is still a special place where several cultures meet and blend. As a melting pot of religions and ethnicities, no city in Russia (outside of Moscow) represents the sheer diversity of this colossally large country as well as Astrakhan. The city’s communal harmony and amity set an example for many other parts of the world that are struggling to deal with the close interaction of various ethnic groups. 

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