biggest british cruise ship

I vacationed on one of the world's largest cruise ships. Next time, I'll choose a smaller ship — or travel in the offseason.

• My partner and I spent two weeks on P&O's Arvia, one of the world's largest cruise ships.
• I had a fantastic time but found the ship was crowded, making it challenging to make friends.
• Next time, I'd be more likely to choose a smaller ship with fewer guests or travel in the offseason.

My partner and I weren't experienced cruise-goers before setting foot on one of the world's largest cruise ships in December of this year.

The British cruise line P&O launched Arvia in 2022. The ship has 19 decks, 30 bars and restaurants, and even an obstacle course on board.

It can host 5,200 guests, making it the largest ship built for the UK market, a spokesperson for P&O Cruises told Business Insider. It's also one of the biggest cruises in the world, along with its sister ship, Iona, as The Times of London reported.

Naturally, I jumped at the chance to spend a two-week vacation on Arvia as it sailed around the Caribbean earlier this month in the lead-up to the holidays. The ship ported in Tortola, Dominican Republic, St. Maarten, Antigua, St. Kitts, Martinique, St. Lucia, and Barbados.

My partner had never been on a cruise before. Meanwhile, I had cruised two years prior — albeit on a much smaller ship — around Northern Europe.

We had an amazing time, and particularly enjoyed the variety of food and entertainment on board. However, we also experienced a couple of obstacles that seemed to be a result of being on a large ship at a peak time.

It was so busy, I found it hard to get a poolside deck chair and a table for dinner

Arvia spans 1,131 feet in height and weighs 184,700 tons, according to P&O's website. But despite its large size, I noticed that many areas of the ship felt overcrowded.

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To be fair, we were on the cruise from December 9 to December 23 — a particularly busy time of the year. Many of the other guests I met said they planned to stay on board through Christmas and New Year's, so I knew it was likely to stay busy.

The ship's four main pools were often crammed with people and I witnessed guests arguing over deck chairs on a couple of occasions. The restaurants were also crowded during my visit.

I had looked forward to the ships's two celebration nights, where guests were asked to dress in formal attire and were treated to a five-course menu created by celebrity chef Marco Pierre White.

When we attempted to book a table before each celebration night, we were told that the two restaurants serving the speciality menu had already been fully booked several days in advance. This was a surprise to me, as all guests had been allocated tables on celebration nights during my previous cruise on Cunard's Queen Elizabeth in October 2021. Still, that was a much smaller cruise.

A P&O spokesperson told BI that speciality dining on the Arvia is available to book online two weeks before departure and that guests are also welcome to book on the day.

Luckily, we were able to join a virtual waitlist for one of the restaurants and were seated a couple of hours after the guests who had been able to book. I'm thankful that everything worked out, but not knowing whether we were going to get a table had been stressful.

It's something I hadn't prepared for, but looking back it makes sense that something like this would happen on a larger ship during a busy period. And next time I'm in a similar situation, I'll book ahead if I can.

I found it difficult to make friends on board such a large ship

There was always something new and exciting to do on the Arvia, whether that meant dining at a new restaurant, discovering live music, or exploring the ship's casino.

But the downside, in my experience, was that it became difficult to make friends with other passengers.

Of course, we had plenty of opportunities to meet people, and we often found ourselves chatting with other couples at dinner or while seated by the pool. But there were thousands of passengers on board, and the likelihood of bumping into the same guests more than once was slim.

My partner and I didn't let these things stop us from enjoying our cruise. We still had the time of our lives.

But next time, I'd definitely consider choosing a smaller ship —  or travel on a larger cruise in the offseason — for a more relaxed experience.

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The top 10 biggest cruise ships in the world

Cruise ships have evolved into giant vessels, even eclipsing aircraft carriers. So, what are the top 10 biggest cruise ships in the world?

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Modern cruise ships continue to grow in size, with the biggest cruise ship, the Icon of the Seas , launching at the start of this year, and her sister ship the Star of the Seas expected to surpass her in size.

Both of these ships are operated by Royal Caribbean International, which operates five of the ten largest cruise ships in the world. Carnival Corporation, arguably the biggest cruise company in the world, features three times on the list through its subsidiaries P&O Cruises and Costa Cruises.

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All of the heaviest cruise ships in the world were built within the last 20 years, although the majority – six of the ten – were built within the last five years.

So, here are the top ten biggest cruise ships in the world, by gross tonnage. 

10. P&O Cruises MS Arvia : 185,581 gross tonnes

The MS Arvia is P&O Cruises’ fourth ship to be built by German shipyard Meyer Werft. Weighing in at 185,581 gross tonnes, the 345m (1,130-foot) Arvia is slightly larger than her sister ship, the MS Iona . The 20-deck ship is the largest ship commissioned for the British cruise market and has a maximum passenger capacity of 6,264 passengers, with 1,800 crew onboard. 

The ship is the second liquefied natural gas (LNG)-powered Excellence-class vessel for P&O, following the Iona . Arvia is powered by a 61,760kW LNG drive system, with a propulsion power of 37 megawatts. The LNG-powered propulsion system allows the vessel to sail at a maximum speed of 21.5 knots.

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After being floated out in August 2022, the Arvia mainly operates itineraries around the Caribbean or the Mediterranean.

9. Costa Cruises – Costa Smeralda : 185,010 gross tonnes

The Costa Smeralda is the first LNG-powered vessel in the Costa Cruises fleet. With a gross tonnage of 185,010gt, the 20-deck Excellence-class ship measures 337m (1,106 feet) in length. The second LNG-powered cruise ship to enter operation in the world, she has a maximum capacity of 6,554 passengers with 1,646 crew and a service speed of 21.5 knots.

Construction of the Costa Smeralda began at the Meyer shipyard in Turku, Finland, in September 2017. Meyer Turku collaborated with the Meyer Werft Papenburg shipyard to develop and integrate the LNG propulsion plant for the ship. She is fitted with four 16-cylinder, Caterpillar MaK 16VM46DF engines, with 15.4 megawatts (20,710 horsepower) output per engine, resulting in a maximum power of  37 megawatts (50,000 horsepower).

The ship, which was named after the Emerald Coast of Sardinia, entered service in December 2019 , departing Savona on its maiden voyage in the Mediterranean, where it has sailed since.

8. Costa Cruises – Costa Toscana : 186,364 gross tonnes

The Costa Toscana is the sister ship of the Costa Smeralda and is also powered by LNG . measuring 337m (1,106 feet) long and weighing in at 186,364 gross tonnes, the Toscana has a maximum capacity of 6,338 passengers and 1,678 staff across her 20 decks.

Like her sister ship, the Toscana was also built at the Meyer shipyard in Finland, with construction completed in 2021. She is also powered by four MaK-Caterpillar engines, with a total power of 57.2 megawatts (76,706 horsepower), and two ABB Azipod motors , resulting in a service speed of 17 knots.

Named in homage to the Tuscany region of Italy, Costa Toscana mainly sails around the Mediterranean Sea but Costa Cruises has also used the ship to sail itineraries further afield, such as around Brazil and the UAE.

7. MSC Cruises – MSC World Europa : 215,863 gross tonnes

The only entry in the top ten from MSC Cruises, MSC World Europa measures 333m (1,094 feet) in length. With 215,863 gross tonnage, she can house more people than any other ship in the MSC fleet: up to 6,762 passengers across 2,633 cabins spread over 22 decks, in addition to 2,138 crew.

Built by Chantiers de l’Atlantique in Saint-Nazaire, France, the World Europa ’s LNG-power propulsion system was subcontracted to Finland-based Wärtsilä. Five LNG-powered, 14-cylinder Wartsila 46DF dual-fuel engines power the vessel, with a propulsion power of 44 megawatts ( 59,005 horsepower). She also features nitrogen oxide reduction (NOR) units, two Wartsila LNGPac fuel storage and supply systems, seven thrusters, and two fixed-pitch propellers. 

The MSC World Europa was floated out at the end of 2021 and was initially used as an accommodation vessel for fans attending the 2022 FIFA World Cup, with the ship berthed at Doha Port in Qatar during the tournament. Following the competition, the ship subsequently travelled several routes around the UAE, before sailing to the Mediterranean, where it has sailed itineraries since.

6. Royal Caribbean International – Allure of the Seas : 225,282 gross tonnes

The first of many entries on this list operated by Royal Caribbean, Allure of the Seas weighs in at 225,282 gross tonnes. Measuring 362m (1,187 feet), she is only 50mm (2 inches) longer than her sister ship the Oasis of the Seas . The Allure has a maximum capacity of 6,780 passengers and 2,200 crew across 18 decks.

Built at the Turku Shipyard in Finland, the Allure took two years to build , floating out in 2010. She features six Wärtsilä 46 diesel engines with a total power output of 97 megawatts (130,053 horsepower). It is propelled by three electric Azipod azimuth thrusters. The ship can travel at a cruising speed of 22 knots.

With a homeport of Galveston, Texas in the US, the Allure mainly serves itineraries around the Bahamas but she is scheduled to sail routes around the Mediterranean in 2025.

5. Royal Caribbean International – Oasis of the Seas : 226,838 gross tonnes

The oldest ship on this list, the Oasis of the Seas has been in service for over a decade. She was the biggest cruise ship at the time when floated out in 2009, with a gross tonnage of 226,838gt and a length of 360m (1,181 feet). The Oasis has a maximum capacity of 6,699 passengers and 2,181 staff across 18 decks.

The Oasis took two years to build at the Meyer shipyard in Turku, Finland, with the keel laid on 12 November 2007 and the ship arriving at her homeport of Port Everglades in Florida, US, on 13 November 2009.

The Oasis is powered by eight Wärtsilä V12 diesel engines, which generate 5.6 megawatts (7,500 horsepower) each, alongside four bow thrusters. The main propulsion system consists of three 20-megawatt (26,820 horsepower) electric Azipod motors, resulting in a combined propulsion power of 82 megawatts (109,964 horsepower) and a standard cruising speed of 23 knots.

The Oasis mainly operates routes around the Caribbean, but occasionally repositions to offer itineraries in the Mediterranean.

4. Royal Caribbean International – Harmony of the Seas : 226,963 gross tonnes

The third Oasis-class ship built by Royal Caribbean, Harmony of the Seas weighed in bigger than her existing sister ships at launch in 2016, with 226,963 gross tonnage, but she has since been surpassed by newer vessels. With a total length of 362m (1,188 feet), Harmony has a maximum capacity of 6,780 passengers and 2,300 staff across 18 decks.

Royal Caribbean placed an order with STX France for the construction of Harmony of the Seas in December 2012. The first steel for the ship was cut at STX France’s Saint-Nazaire shipyard in September 2013, while the keel-laying ceremony was held in May 2014.

The Harmony is powered by three 18.9-megawatt Wärtsilä 16V46 16-cylinder main generator diesel engines and three Wärtsilä 12V46 12-cylinder engines producing 13.9 megawatts each. The propulsion power is provided by three electric Azipod azimuth thrusters and manoeuvring is assisted by four 5.5-megawatt Wärtsilä CT 3500 tunnel thrusters. The propulsion system results in 82 megawatts (109,964 horsepower) and enables the ship to sail at a standard speed of 23 knots.

Harmony of the Seas embarked on her inaugural seven-night Western Mediterranean cruise from Barcelona, Spain, in June 2016, and currently operates itineraries around the Western Caribbean from her homeport of Galveston, Texas in the US.

3. Royal Caribbean International – Symphony of the Seas : 228,081 gross tonnes

At launch in 2018, the Symphony of the Seas surpassed the Harmony as the biggest cruise ship, weighing in at 228,081 gross tonnes. Measuring 361m (1,185 feet), the Symphony has a maximum capacity of 6,680 passengers and 2,200 staff across 18 decks and was the testing ground for Royal Caribbean’s new muster drill . With a total length of 361m (1,185 feet), She is roughly 30 metres (98 feet) longer than the largest military ships , the US Nimitz-class aircraft carriers and the USS Gerald R. Ford .

The keel-laying ceremony for the Symphony of the Seas was held in October 2015 at STX’s Saint-Nazaire shipyard in France, and the ship sailed out in June 2017. She is powered by six diesel sets, each composed of three Wärtsilä 16V46D engines and three Wärtsilä 12V46D engines, as well as three 20-megawatt electric Azipod main engines – resulting in 82 megawatts (109,964 horsepower) of propulsion power and a standard cruising speed of 22 knots.

The Symphony commenced her seven-day maiden voyage from Barcelona in April 2018, and since then has mainly operated itineraries around the Caribbean from her homeports of Miami, New York, and Fort Lauderdale.

2. Royal Caribbean International – Wonder of the Seas : 235,600 gross tonnes

Royal Caribbean’s flagship, Wonder of the Seas is the fifth Oasis-class cruise ship built for the cruise company. Weighing in at 235,600 gross tonnes, the Wonder was the largest ship in the world when she was completed in January 2022. Measuring 362m (1,187 feet) in length, the 18-deck Wonder has a maximum capacity of 7,084 guests across its 2,867 staterooms, as well as housing 2,369 crew.

Built by Chantiers de l’Atlantique in Saint-Nazaire, Wonder is powered by two Wärtsilä 16V46D engines and four Wärtsilä 12V46D engines; and uses three 20-megawatt electric Azipod engines for propulsion, combining for a propulsion power of 82 megawatts (109,964 horsepower and a standard cruising speed of 22 knots.

The Wonder sailed her maiden voyage in March 2022 from Fort Lauderdale, Florida, and has since served itineraries around the Caribbean from her homeports of Miami and Cape Canaveral.

1. Royal Caribbean International – Icon of the Seas : 248,663 gross tonnes

Weighing 248,663 gross tonnes and measuring 365 metres (1,1967 feet), the Icon of the Seas is the largest cruise ship in the world. Christened on 23 January 2024, the Icon has a maximum capacity of 7,600 passengers and 2,350 crew across 20 decks. She is the lead ship of the new Icon-class, with a sister ship the Star of the Seas due to be delivered in 2025 and another ship planned for delivery in 2026.

Built by Meyer Turku in Finland, the Icon is the first ship in the Royal Caribbean fleet that can be powered by LNG. It uses three Wärtsilä 14V46DF and three Wärtsilä 12V46DF for its main generator engines, which provide 67.5 megawatts of energy to run the ship. She is propelled by three 20-megawatt Azipod thrusters as well as five 4.8-megawatt Wärtsilä WTT-45 CP bow thrusters, with a cruising speed of 22 knots.

After sailing her maiden voyage on 27 January 2024, the Icon now sails year-round itineraries of seven-night trips around the Eastern and Western Caribbean from her homeport of Miami, Florida.

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The World’s 10 Biggest Cruise Ships

• February 7, 2021

Cruise ships, over the last few decades, haven’t just grown in number, but also in size. Today’s biggest ships are nearly three times bigger than the 1988-built Sovereign of the Seas, considered the world’s first mega cruise ship.

1. Symphony of the Seas (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 227,625 tons Capacity: 5,400 passengers Built: 2018 Length: 362.1 meters Beam: 47.4 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Caribbean

2. Harmony of the Seas (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 227,625 tons Capacity: 5,400 passengers Built: 2016 Length: 362.1 meters Beam: 47.4 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Caribbean and Mediterranean

3. Allure of the Seas (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 220,000 tons Capacity: 5,400 passengers Built: 2010 Length: 362 meters Beam: 47 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Caribbean

4. Oasis of the Seas (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 220,000 tons Capacity: 5,400 passengers Built: 2008 Length: 361.6 meters Beam: 47 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Caribbean, Bahamas, and East Coast

5. Mardi Gras (Carnival Cruise Line)

Tonnage: 183,900 Capacity: 5,200 passengers Built: 2021 Length: 337 meters Beam: 42 meters

6. Iona (P&O Cruises)

Tonnage: 183,900 tons Capacity: 5,200 passengers Built: 2020 Length: 337 meters Beam: 42 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Northern Europe and the Canaries

7. AIDAnova (AIDA Cruises)

Tonnage: 183,900 tons Capacity: 5,000 passengers Built: 2018 Length: 337 meters Beam: 42 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Mediterranean and the Canaries

8. Costa Smeralda (Costa Cruises)

Tonnage: 182,700 tons Capacity: 5,224 passengers Built: 2019 Length: 337 meters Beam: 42 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Mediterranean

9. MSC Grandiosa (MSC Cruises)

Tonnage: 177,100 tons Capacity: 4,888 passengers Built: 2019 Length: 331 meters Beam: 43 meters Sailing regions in 2021: Mediterranean

10. Spectrum of the Seas (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 168,666 tons Capacity: 4,100 passengers Built: 2019 Length: 347 meters Beam: 41.4 meters Sailing regions in 2021: China and Southeast Asia

Coming Soon…

The ranking is slated for major changes in the next few years, with large cruise ships entering service for several brands.

1. Wonder of the Seas (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 227,625 tons Capacity: 5,448 passengers Built: 2022 Length: 362.1 meters Beam: 47.4 meters

2. Global Dream (Genting Cruise Lines/Dream Cruises)

Tonnage: 208,000 tons Capacity: 5,000 passengers Built: 2022 Length: 342 meters Beam: 46.4 meters

3. MSC World Europa (MSC Cruises)

Tonnage: 205,700 tons Capacity: 5,400 passengers Built: 2022 Length: 330 meters Beam: 47 meters

4. Icon Class I (Royal Caribbean International)

Tonnage: 200,000 Capacity: 5,000 passengers Built: 2022 Length: TBD Beam: TBD

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Full List: The 10 Current Largest Cruise Ships on the Planet

If you think cruise ships have gotten bigger, it’s not just your imagination. Whereas a ship built in the 1990s might hold 2,500 passengers and come in at around 75,000 gross tons (a measure of ship size), that’s nowhere near the ships built today.

Today, any new ship from a major line will be at least 140,000 gross tons, with many much larger than that. Passenger counts have also swelled, with many new ships carrying 5,000 cruisers when completely full.

But the largest cruise ships on the planet are in another league altogether. They can measure up to 250,000 gross tons (roughly triple the size of a ship built 30 years ago!) and when at full capacity with crew, have nearly 10,000 people onboard.

Why Are Cruise Ships So Big?

Truth be told, while the size of massive modern ships is staggering, not everyone likes the large ship experience. Some people can find them too crowded and too hard to navigate. But not everyone feels that way, and cruise lines have invested literally billions into building ships that are as large as possible. So what is the appeal of a mega ship?

Amenities/Activities: For passengers, the big advantage of size comes with everything that can be fit onto the ship. Instead of the old days where there was a pool, some loungers, and a buffet, modern mega ships are literal resorts at sea.

There are multiple pools, more than a dozen restaurants, casinos, ziplines, literal parks, ice-skating rinks, rock-climbing walls, spas, and more bars than you can count on your fingers and toes.

All of that combines into an experience that can exceed expectations and keep passengers coming back for more.

Efficiencies of Scale: For cruise lines, one big positive about a larger ship are greater efficiencies. Instead of having the cost of building two smaller ships — and the costs of having two sets of crew to run them both — one larger ship offers the chance for just as many passengers at a lower cost.

Marketing: Finally, one overlooked aspect of why cruise ships are bigger than ever has to do with marketing and publicity. There’s a certain awe and interest that comes with the world’s largest ships. Seeing them in port is essentially a giant billboard for a cruise line. And the largest ships also get significant press due to their size. All of that can translate into more interest, ticket sales, and prices for the newest — and biggest — ships.

With that in mind, here is the current list of the world’s largest cruise ships as of now…

Icon of the Seas

When it comes to the largest ships, Royal Caribbean is the undisputed leader with the six biggest cruise ships in the world. But the king of the fleet — and the largest cruise ship in the world — is Icon of the Seas .

Icon of the Seas doesn’t sail with passengers until 2024, but it’s already made waves. It’s not just the massive size (250,800 gross tons and 7,600 passengers at maximum capacity), but what’s onboard. A full-fledged waterpark, seven different pools, and eight different neighborhoods offer a spot for everyone. This ship looks to change cruising forever.

• Gross Tonnage: 250,800
• Length: 1,198 feet
• Passenger Capacity: 5,610 double occupancy; 7,600 max capacity
• Year Built: 2023

Wonder of the Seas

Wonder of the Seas is the latest edition of Royal Caribbean’s Oasis-class ships (until Utopia of the Seas arrives in 2024), which were the largest class in the world until the new Icon class took the torch. Still, it’s not as if Wonder of the Seas is a slouch.

At 235,600 gross tons, there’s room for 7,084 passengers and an amazing amount to see and do onboard. This includes Central Park, the mid-ship outdoor promenade that winds through lush gardens, and the AquaTheater, where performers put on aquatic shows, including towering high dives at sea.

• Gross Tonnage: 235,600
• Length: 1,188 feet
• Passenger Capacity: 5,734 double occupancy; 7,084 max capacity
• Year Built: 2022

Symphony of the Seas

Each iteration of Oasis-class ships has arrived just slightly larger than the previous when it comes to gross tonnage. That means they each had their time as the largest in the world before another arrived on the scene. In this case, Symphony of the Seas (228,000 gross tons and the ability to hold 6,680 passengers) took the crown in 2018.

Today, it’s the third-largest cruise ship on the planet, but it’s no slouch. It holds seven different neighborhoods, nearly 3,000 staterooms, three waterslides, and Ultimate Abyss — a 10-story dry slide.

• Gross Tonnage: 228,081
• Passenger Capacity: 5,518 double occupancy; 6,680 max capacity
• Year Built: 2018

Harmony of the Seas

Built in 2016, Harmony of the Seas features 18 decks, more than 225,000 gross tons (about 10% smaller than Icon of the Seas) and can carry nearly 6,700 passengers when completely full. That’s good enough to make it the fourth-largest cruise ship in the world.

It features many of the same components of other ships in the class, like the adults-only Solarium, Central Park, and the AquaTheater. That’s not to mention 17 different spots to grab a bite to eat.

• Gross Tonnage: 226,963
• Passenger Capacity: 5,479 double occupancy; 6,687 max capacity
• Year Built: 2016

Oasis of the Seas

The ship that started the trend of truly mega ships is also the namesake of the Oasis class — Oasis of the Seas. If you notice, most of the largest ships on our list were built recently. This ship first began sailing in 2009 and set off the “arms race” of larger ships that continues today.

Following a refurbishment, it now features three waterslides, a dozen lounges, 2,801 cabins (including one with a panoramic view right above the ship’s bridge), a splash pad for kids, and even an escape room themed like the 1960s NASA mission control. And did we mention 20 different places to find something to eat?

• Gross Tonnage: 226,838
• Length: 1,187 feet
• Passenger Capacity: 5,602 double occupancy; 6,771 max capacity
• Year Built: 2009

Allure of the Seas

Following a refurbishment of Oasis of the Seas, Allure of the Seas — which was the second ship in the class and built in 2010 — is actually now the smallest of the group based on tonnage. Still, that’s good enough for sixth largest in the world at “just” 225,000 gross tons.

On the ship, you’ll find 18 decks, 2,748 staterooms and more than 6,800 passengers when completely full. That’s definitely a lot of people, but remember that you also have a lot more space to spread out, giving plenty of elbow room.

• Gross Tonnage: 225,282
• Passenger Capacity: 5,496 double occupancy; 6,826 max capacity
• Year Built: 2010

MSC World Europa

While Royal Caribbean has a lock on the largest ships, the title of largest cruise ship from outside that cruise line goes to MSC World Europa.

Coming in at almost 216,000 gross tons, it’s roughly 14% smaller than Icon of the Seas. But don’t think it’s some slouch. From bumper cars to seven pools to an 11-story slide, there’s no shortage of things for kids to do. Adults will love the 13 different dining options and an indoor promenade or Panorama Lounge for shopping, having a drink, or just relaxing.

This ship will be joined in 2025 by sister-ship MSC World America, set to sail stateside.

• Gross Tonnage: 215,863
• Length: 1,094 feet
• Passenger Capacity: 5,231 double occupancy; 6,762 max capacity

Costa Smeralda/Costa Toscana (Tie)

These two ships come in at a tie for the eighth-largest cruise ship in the world. Built in 2019 and 2021, respectively, they both belong to Costa Cruises. And if the shape of the ship looks familiar, that’s because Costa is a sister line to Carnival. A similar design is used for Carnival’s largest ships, Mardi Gras, Celebration, and Jubilee. However, those ships come in just under the 185,000 gross tons seen with Smeralda and Toscana.

Both ships offer 13 pools and hot tubs, nearly a dozen restaurants and just under 20 bars and lounges. And if you like balcony views? There are 1,550 balcony rooms on each, providing plenty of options for the roughly 6,500 passengers that can sail at full capacity.

• Gross Tonnage: 185,010
• Length: 1,106 feet
• Passenger Capacity: 5,224 double occupancy; 6,554 max capacity
• Year Built: 2019/2021

P&O Arvia

Taking the crown as the 10th-largest cruise ship in the world is Arvia from P&O Cruises. Measuring just under 185,000 gross tons, it offer a similar design to ships like Costa Smeralda and Carnival Celebration, but don’t think these ships are all the same.

For instance, Arvia features a unique Skydome area that is a pool area with retractable roof by day and an entertainment venue by night. It also features its own rum distillery onboard, meaning you can take home rum literally made on the ship. Kids will love the Altitude zone that features a ropes course, mini-golf, and more. There’s also Mission Control, a submarine-themed escape room.

All told, a reported 6,685 passengers can enjoy the ship at one time.

• Gross Tonnage: 184,700
• Length: 1,130 feet
• Passenger Capacity: 5,200 double occupancy; 6,685 max capacity

More on Large Ships:

• The World’s Largest Cruise Ship Compared to Famous Places
• The World’s Largest Cruise Ships Sailing For Each Line (With Photos)
• Photos: See the New Icon of the Seas Sail for the First Time

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Largest Cruise Ships In the World

Let’s Discover the World’s Top 11 Current Largest Cruise Ships In the World. If you’re searching for information on the biggest cruise ships in the world , you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll take you on a virtual journey to discover the most massive and luxurious vessels that grace our oceans. These ships have breathtaking amenities,  awe-inspiring dimensions and carry a huge amount of passengers. We will delve into the fascinating world of these floating cities, ensuring you’re well-equipped with all the knowledge and stats about the world’s most colossal cruise ships just in case you want to sail on one.

 Join us as we set sail on an adventure to uncover the giants of the sea, making waves in the cruise industry. We are embarking on an exciting voyage to explore the world’s top 11 largest cruise ships in the world. Let our  guide  help you to decide which is the best cruise ship for you and your cruise vacation.

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What Are The World’s Top 12 Current Largest Cruise Ships In 2024?

How big is a cruise ship.

Cruise ships are HUGE, and of course; they come in all shapes and sizes. No one is prepared for just how big they are when they are when they first see them. The current largest cruise ship in the world has 18 decks and 24 guest elevators, weighs 236,857 gross tons and is 1,188 ft long

 What is so special about a large cruise ship?

Cruise ships are floating cities with bars , restaurants, water slides, boardwalks and some even Go cart tracks. This and the added fun of exploring a new city every day can lead to the ultimate family vacation.

As Cruise ships are so large our advice is to spend the first day getting your bearings and working out where things are. Set up a meeting point so you can find friends and most important of all have fun!

Current List of Largest Cruise Ships in the world In 2024

Here are the Top 12 Current Largest Cruise Ships In 2024:

• Icon of the Seas
• Wonder Of The Seas (Icon of the Seas launches in 2024)

Symphony  of the Seas

• Harmony of the Seas

Oasis of the Seas

Allure of the seas.

• MSC World Europa

Costa Smeralda

Costa toscana, p&o arvia, p&o iona, the biggest ship in the world is icon of the seas.

The most gian and biggestt cruise ship in the world in 2024 is Icon of the Seas, an icon-class Royal Caribbean ship that has just launched, and the reviews are excellent. Icon of the Seas is HUGE, at 250,800 GT, which also makes it the heaviest  passenger cruise ship  in the world. Additionally, she holds over 7000 passengers; this again is a world-beating number.

Royal Caribbean has also created one of the best-dedicated suite areas at sea, thus creating a ship within a ship feel plus a new reimagined Aqua Dome. Icon of the Seas has something to suit everyone, from dining bars to family activities and pools.

Wonder Of The Seas

As of 2022,  Wonder Of The Seas , an Oasis-Class Ship, was the biggest   Royal Caribbean cruise Ship , a whopping 236,857 tonnes and 1,188 feet long and holding 6,988 at total capacity. She also has 2300 crew members, a ratio of 3 passengers to each crew member. She has 7 neighbourhoods to explore with an indoor Central Park and even a Boardwalk with full size carousel on it. However, she will lose her crown in 2023 when the new ship Icon of the Seas launches.

The Royal Caribbean international ship Symphony of the Seas closely follows Wonder of the Seas  as the second largest ship. At 228,081 Gross Tons and1,188 feet long. This ship is simply packed with a whole host of activities and facilities. On Symphony you can experience a full 10 story dry slide called the , a surf simulater machine called the flo rider and even a mini golf course to name but a few activities. It also has plenty of restaurants to choose from such as the Playmakers lounge and the magical Wonderland restaurant.

Royal Caribbeans Harmony of the Seas

Harmony of the Seas was the second ship in the Royals Oasis class. Harmony of the Seas was the first in the Oasis class to feature the 10-Story Ultimate Abyss slide , which is located at the aft of the ship. Since then the slide has featured on new Oasis-class vessels and also been added to Oasis of the Seas during her refurbishment.

Harmony of the Seas can carry a whopping 6,687 passengers and weighs 226,963 tons! She continues in the Oasis Class line of Royal Carribbean class ships that have so far been taking the crown of the worlds largest cruise ships.

Oasis of the Seas was the first ship in the Royal Caribbean Oasis class and once took the crown of the worlds Largest ship. The Oasis of the Seas ship was the first ship in the Royal Caribbean Oasis class and once took the crown of the worlds Largest ship and pushed the cruise industry to new heights never seen before. In 2019, Oasis of the Seas underwent a refurbishment, adding amenities found on newer Oasis-class ships. These included the FlowRider simulators, Perfect Storm waterslides, Ultimate Abyss, and Playmakers Sports Bar & Arcade. Across the ship’s seven neighborhoods, you’ll also encounter cutting-edge technology like video walls, touchscreen signage, and VOOM, known as the fastest internet at sea.

Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, which first set sail in 2010 is the cruise line’s second Oasis-class vessel, which underwent refurbishment in 2015. It accommodates 6,780 passengers and 2,200 crew members, offering 2,742 staterooms, seven neighborhoods, four pools, six whirlpools, 19 dining venues, and numerous bars and lounges. Entertainment options include an ice skating rink, a basketball court, a 10-deck-high zip line, two rock climbing walls, and two beloved FlowRider simulators. The ship also boasts the interactive H2O Zone Water Park for kids and Broadway productions like “Mamma Mia!” and aerial acrobatic performances in Oceanaria for adults . Additionally, conference facilities can host up to 1,394 guests for business purposes.

MSC World Europa 

MSC World Europa, the inaugural vessel of MSC Cruises’ MSC World-class fleet , made its highly anticipated debut in November 2022 . Remarkably, it represents MSC Cruises’ pioneering foray into LNG propulsion, capable of attaining a top cruising speed of 22.7 knots.

Distinguished by its futuristic design, both inside and out, the ship boasts a sprawling 295-foot-long promenade. This promenade is a unique blend of innovation, with half of it sheltered beneath the Meraviglia-class LED sky screens, while the other half provides open-air spaces offering stunning ocean vistas. MSC World Europa offers a total of 2,626 staterooms, accommodating up to 6,762 passengers, and is staffed by a dedicated team of 2,138 crew members. Adding a delightful touch, each passenger deck is named after a renowned international city, such as London, Paris, Lisbon, and Rome .

Noteworthy highlights encompass distinct themed zones, a serene Zen area featuring an adults-only pool, a lively family zone complete with bumper cars and rollerblading, and the fleet’s most extensive onboard water park. Younger cruisers can revel in the exhilarating 11-deck-high stainless steel tunnel slide at the ship’s core. To accommodate a wide array of performances and events, Luna Park Studio, the ship’s 300-seat multifunctional entertainment venue, stands ready to impress. The Europa sails around Europe throughout the year, with departures from various Mediterranean ports. Other notable large ships from MSC include the MSC Bellissima and the MSC Grandiosa which are part of MSC Meraviglia class ships.

Costa Cruises’ largest cruise ship is the Smeralda. The Costa Smeralda, takes its name from Sardinia’s captivating Emerald Coast, stands as a remarkable achievement in modern cruise ship technology. Operated by the esteemed Italian cruise line Costa Cruises, this vessel represents the pinnacle of their fleet. It boasts an impressive 185,100 gross tonnage and dimensions measuring 337 meters in length and 42 meters in width. With a capacity to accommodate up to 6,554 passengers and a dedicated crew of 1,646 members, Costa Smeralda embarked on its inaugural voyage in December 2019, exclusively navigating the Mediterranean Sea.

This extraordinary ship has been meticulously designed, incorporating various sustainable technologies, transforming it into a veritable “Smart Floating City.” In addition to providing luxurious accommodations for its passengers, Costa Smeralda also champions environmental conservation by significantly reducing its carbon footprint.

Following the by Costa Smerelda is the Costa  Toscana, the newest cruise ship for Costa, which is 180,000 and has a length of 1,105ft. 

In 2022, the Costa Toscana, powered by LNG, assumed its role as the flagship vessel for the Italian cruise line. It marked a departure from the initial Costa ships that emerged when Carnival Corporation acquired the line in 2000, emphasizing a distinctly European and exceedingly luxurious ambiance.

One striking feature of the Costa Toscana is the clever utilization of color to distinguish its public spaces. For instance, one can readily discern the rich forest greens of the Kartell Caffe on Deck 8, situated amidships, or the vibrant fire-engine red of the aptly-named Campari Bar on Deck 7. Roaming the decks of the Costa Toscana is not just an exploration of the ship itself; it’s a voyage of discovery, unveiling the essence of Europe and Italy. On Deck 17, you’ll find the lively orange-themed Aperol Spritz bar, a collaboration with the iconic Italian brand that originated the famous drink in Venice during the 1920s.

P&O Arvia holds 5200 guests and have a crew of 1800. Arvia has a top deck mini golf and high-ropes course, pool and an swim-up bar. This revolutionary new ship Arvia even has its own distillery onboard. When the cruise ship is in the Caribbean it makes rum and whilst in the Mediterranean it distills gin! In fact It has many firsts! 

The primary attraction of this cruise ship lies in its numerous pioneering features, such as Altitude, an engaging activity area; Mission Control, an immersive escape room experience; Skywalk, a thrilling high-ropes adventure. Not to mention the Splash Valley, a water-based attraction; a dynamic sports arena; a swim-up bar for aquatic relaxation; and a mini-golf course. Notably, among P&O’s fleet, this ship surpasses its sister, IONA, in size, thus earning the distinction of being the largest cruise ship as of 2023.

P&O Iona also holds 5200 guests and has a crew of 1800 Making it one of P&O’s largest cruise ships. As the sibling vessel to Arvia, Iona stands proudly as another splendid offering from P&O Cruises. She solidifies its position as one of the largest British cruise ships for the foreseeable future. Arvia and Iona share striking similarities, both epitomizing modernity and spaciousness, making them perfect choices for couples or families . While Iona may not offer the extensive array of features like rock climbing walls and surfing simulators found on Royal Caribbean ships, it excels in providing excellent kids’ clubs with a wealth of diverse activities.

AIDA is a German brand under the Carnival umbrella. The largest AIDA cruise ship the Aida Nova, has 6,654 passengers and 1646 crew. And Aida Cosma Holds 6,600 passengers and 1646 crew.

Thank you for reading about the Largest Cruise Ships In the World! Head over to our menu to discover more about these great ships.

Donna loves cruising with her husband and two teenage boys. Having cruised with the children from a young age she feels it is the perfect way to experience the world safely. Her boys are social butterfly’s and love meeting other children their own age whilst onboard some of the most extraordinary floating ships. She also writes over at Like Love Do, a travel memoir of her trips, from London to far off beaches. She has an eye for the unusual and like to go off of the beaten track just to find the perfect photo. With a passion for photography and exploring cruising has become the perfect holiday choice.

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The 20 Biggest Cruise Ships in the World in 2023

By: Author Carrie Ann Karstunen

Posted on Published: March 1, 2022  - Last updated: January 6, 2023

Cruise ships have been getting bigger—and adding lots of attractions that were unheard of just a few years ago. To help you pick which megaship is right for you, I’ve rounded up the 20 biggest cruise ships in the world in 2023.

Along with a ranking of the top 20 cruise ships by size , I’ve included important stats and unique features for each ship. If you’re considering sailing on one of the biggest cruise ships in the world, you’ll want to read this guide before you choose!

How do we determine the size of cruise ships for comparison?

Cruise ships can be measured by a variety of factors. You might assume that a ship’s size is determined by its length, weight, or even its passenger capacity.

But the size of a cruise ship is generally determined by gross tonnage —and (confusingly) that’s not a measurement of weight!

Gross tonnage, or GT, is a measure of the ship’s internal volume . To calculate GT, first a ship’s volume is calculated by measuring from keel to funnel to the outside of the hull framing. That number (in cubic meters) is then run through several mathematical formulas to determine GT. (I won’t go into all of that here, but if you’re interested the US Coast Guard has a simplified guide to measuring gross tonnage ).

The world’s 20 largest cruise ships in 2023

Currently, the top 20 biggest cruise ships have four sets of ties in the rankings, all between sister ships that share the same cruise line and class. So although we’ll start our list at #16, there are twenty ships in total!

Cruise fans will notice there are several new ships on the list this year. Have any of these newer ships bumped your favorites down in the rankings? Read on to find out!

16. (tie) MSC Seascape

• Cruise line: MSC
• Year built: 2022
• Gross tonnage: 170,412
• Length: 1112 ft / 339 m
• Max. beam: 135 ft / 41 m
• Staterooms: 2270
• Max. passengers: 5877
• Passenger decks: 15

Just making this year’s list of the world’s 20 largest cruise ships, MSC Seascape is tied for #16. The second Seaside EVO class ship launched by MSC Cruises in just over a year, Seascape features a glam New York City vibe.

The ship’s four-story Atrium is at the heart of the action on board, and boasts a sparkling staircase set with 10,000 Swarovski crystals—the perfect spot for a photo op on formal nights !

But MSC Seascape isn’t all glitz and glamour—the family-friendly ship offers 13 pools and water features and more than 140,000 square feet (13006 m²) of public outside space. Kids will love Pirates Cove Aquapark , a play space with slides, a rope bridge, and plenty of water sprayers and dumping buckets to beat the heat.

Seascape is also the first ship to feature the new thrill ride Robotron , a robotic virtual rollercoaster ride perched on the top deck.

Foodie guests on MSC Seascape will enjoy the ship’s eleven restaurants, including a massive Market Place Buffet and several specialty dining venues grouped together at Chef’s Court .

Related: MSC Cruises Launches MSC Seascape in New York City

16. (tie) MSC Seashore

• Year built: 2020 (launched 2021)
• Max. beam: 134.5 ft / 41 m

Almost identical to her sister ship Seascape , MSC Seashore is tied for #16 on the list of the largest cruise ships. The first in the EVO subclass of MSC’s Seaside class ships, Seashore and her sister are larger than other ships in their class and offer expanded outdoor spaces.

As an EVO ship, MSC Seashore offers improved technology to increase efficiency and reduce her carbon footprint. The energy-efficient equipment includes an advanced wastewater purification system and Safe Air , a new sanitation system that eliminates viruses and bacteria.

Seashore was purpose-built for the American market, but still offers the European flair that MSC is famous for. Guests can enjoy a taste of Italy at the ship’s Venchi 1878 gelato bars , offering twenty flavors of the decadent frozen treat in flavors like tiramisù and stracciatella.

MSC Seashore also features a gorgeous aft infinity pool—one of the largest at sea—with luxurious submerged sunbeds. The spot is a tranquil adults-only oasis by day, but it comes alive in the evening as the setting for the always-popular Silent Disco .

15. (tie) MSC Bellissima

• Year built: 2019
• Gross tonnage: 171,598
• Length: 1,036.2 ft / 315.83 m
• Max. beam: 141 ft / 43 m
• Staterooms: 2,217
• Max. passengers: 5,686
• Passenger decks: 14

Tied for the fifteenth spot in the list of the world’s largest cruise ships, MSC’s Bellissima is as tall as thirteen double-decker buses!

Perfect for a family cruise, Bellissima offers a wealth of kids’ activities for children aged one through seventeen. Parents can track kids’ whereabouts on board via an RFID bracelet synced with MSC’s app. For adults who want to enjoy a leisurely meal, there’s the Happy Dinner program where the little ones are escorted to the kids club as soon as they finish eating!

MSC Bellissima is home to a thrilling Grand Canyon-themed waterpark with three waterslides—two racing tubes as well as a champagne bowl-style slide. The younger set will love the Aquaplay spray area, and guests of all ages can climb the Himalayan bridge, a rope course that crosses the ship high above the water.

Guests aboard Bellissima also have access to an electronic cruise assistant, similar to Siri or Alexa. A first in the cruise industry, Zoe —who speaks seven languages and adapts to each passenger’s preference—provides information and help booking shows, spa treatments, and shore excursions, as well as notifications of events and promotions.

15. (tie) MSC Meraviglia

• Year built: 2017
• Staterooms: 2,244
• Max. passengers: 5,655

When MSC’s Meraviglia entered service in 2017, she was the sixth-largest cruise ship in the world—but has since fallen to #15, tied with her newer sister ship Bellissima .

The namesake of the Meraviglia class of cruise ships, she was the first to offer an expanded dining experience with fourteen restaurants, including a whopping four complimentary main dining rooms. Celebrity chef Carlo Cracco was enlisted to improve the quality of the ship’s cuisine.

On Meraviglia entertainment options abound—the Broadway Theatre hosts six unique shows each cruise, along with the Carousel Lounge where you can experience Cirque du Soleil at sea. The crew also puts on an impressive amount of activities and events, so there’s always something to do on a sea day .

The ship’s Amusement Park has a full-size bowling alley, 4-D cinema, F1 simulators, an arcade, as well as a sportplex that becomes a disco spot for young cruisers in the evening.

14. (tie) MSC Virtuosa

• Year built: 2020
• Gross tonnage: 181,541
• Length: 1,087.4 ft / 331.43 m
• Max. beam: 160 ft / 50 m
• Staterooms: 2,421
• Max. passengers: 6,334

MSC’s ship Virtuosa , built in 2020, is one of the newer offerings by the Swiss-Italian cruise line and is tied for number fourteen on our list of the world’s biggest cruise ships.

Virtuosa offers five pools in total, plus a water park with three waterslides, so water babies of all ages can spread out and enjoy the fun. The pools can accommodate over a thousand guests at a time!

If relaxing with a cocktail is more your style, stop by and see Rob the bartender at Starship Club . He’s the first humanoid bartender at sea, and speaks six languages!

Cruisers can also wander the Galleria Virtuosa —the pretty indoor promenade with restaurants and shops features an arched ceiling with the longest LED dome at sea , presenting an ever-changing light display.

14. (tie) MSC Grandiosa

• Staterooms: 2,632
• Max. passengers: 6,761

Tied for number 14, Grandiosa was the first vessel in MSC’s Meraviglia-Plus class , later joined by her sister ship MSC Virtuosa .

With 200 more staterooms than previous MSC ships, Grandiosa has expanded the number of accessible cabins on board, and added groups of up to three connecting staterooms as well as new family balcony cabins. Some spacious family staterooms can sleep up to twelve!

Grandiosa also has some innovative environmental features, including systems to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions by 80%, and sulfur emissions by 97%. She has a fuel-efficient hull and can run on shore power when docked.

Fun fact: Grandiosa ‘s godmother is Italian screen legend and longtime MSC ambassador Sophia Loren. She actually holds that honor for most of MSC’s fleet!

13. Mardi Gras

• Cruise line: Carnival
• Gross tonnage: 181,808
• Length: 1,130 ft / 344 m
• Max. beam: 138 ft / 42 m
• Staterooms: 2,641
• Max. passengers: 6,630

The 13th biggest cruise ship in the world is Carnival Cruise Line’s widely-anticipated Mardi Gras (currently the cruise line’s second-largest ship) which took her maiden voyage in July 2021.

Mardi Gras debuted several new concepts for Carnival, including three new dining venues. Big Chicken by Shaq serves up fried chicken and more, while quick-service Street Eats offers three food stations, each specializing in a different type of cuisine.

Emeril’s Bistro 1396 , created in partnership with celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse (Carnival’s new Chief Culinary Officer ), serves up New Orleans-style Creole dishes.

The Grand Central Atrium reinvented the central area of the ship, with a larger space featuring bars, cafés, and shops with aerial performances overhead.

She also boasts the first rollercoaster at sea —BOLT is an open-air coaster with spectacular sea views. Riders can control their speed using pedals inside each two-person motorcycle-themed car.

12. AIDAcosma

• Cruise line: AIDA
• Year built: 2021
• Gross tonnage: 183,200
• Length: 1,106 ft / 337 m
• Staterooms: 2,626
• Max. passengers: 6,600
• Passenger decks: 16

Setting sail on her maiden voyage in February 2022, Carnival Corporation’s German brand AIDA ‘s newest ship AIDAcosma makes #12 on the list.

AIDAcosma ‘s unique features include the Ocean Deck , a four-story relaxation oasis with an infinity pool and panoramic ocean views.

The ship also has a reinvented Fun Park , complete with a ropes course, rock-climbing wall, and a large indoor playground.

Her seventeen restaurants and 23 bars and cafés ensure that guests have plenty of variety on their cruise vacation! Notable is the new Mamma Mia specialty restaurant, serving fresh Italian cuisine including homemade pasta dishes.

11. Carnival Celebration

• Gross tonnage: 183,521
• Length: 1130 ft / 340 m
• Max. beam: 137 ft / 42 m
• Staterooms: 2687
• Max. passengers: 6631

Carnival Cruise Line’s newest ship Carnival Celebration launched in 2022 as the second member of the Excel class , joining her sister Mardi Gras . The new ship almost made the top 10 of the largest cruise ships, landing at number 11.

Celebration pays homage to her homeport of Miami with the 820 Biscayne zone, named after the cruise line’s first headquarters. The zone will feature the Deco Deli and 820 Bar , serving up Cuban sandwiches and tropical drinks.

Pizza fanatics will want to try the brand new Miami Slice , a free pizzeria that replaces the Pizza Pirate or Pizzeria del Capitano venues found on all other Carnival ships. The walk-up pizza joint features vibrant décor reminiscent of late-night eateries on Miami Beach’s Ocean Drive. 

Younger guests can check out Space Cruisers , a new program offered in partnership with the Kennedy Space Center. Kids age 2 to 11 will have the opportunity to try NASA-inspired activities tailored to their age group.

Celebration is the second ship in Carnival’s fleet to be completely powered by liquefied natural gas (LNG).

Related: Cassidy Gifford Becomes Godmother of Carnival Celebration in Miami

10. AIDAnova

• Year built: 2018
• Gross tonnage: 183,858
• Max. passengers: 6,654

In tenth place is AIDAnova , sister ship to AIDAcosma . The first of AIDA’s ships to use liquefied natural gas (LNG), AIDAnova has nearly zero emissions.

Wellness-minded cruisers will love AIDAnova ‘s 3545 square meters dedicated to fitness and relaxation. The new Body & Soul Spa features five ocean-view saunas, a sun terrace with three jacuzzis, and a tepidarium. Over 30 free exercise classes are offered each week in the Sport area, or train solo in the open-air gym.

Or take a leisurely stroll on the Lanai deck, where guests can walk almost all the way around the ship, stopping at restaurants and bars including the Lanai Bar at the stern.

• Cruise line: P&O
• Gross tonnage: 184,089
• Length: 1,130 ft / 344.5 m
• Staterooms: 2,614

Number nine is P&O UK’s Iona , the largest cruise ship built specifically for the British market. One of the newer ships on the list, Iona was delivered in 2020 but made her first voyage in August 2021.

Family-friendly Iona features the enclosed SkyDome pool area, kids’ splash zone, and a shallow pool for little cruisers. Hosted by specially-trained Reef Rangers, the Reef kids’ club is a fun environment for children aged 2-17, open from early morning until late.

But Iona ‘s not all about the kids! She’s actually home to the world’s first gin distillery at sea , producing the Marabelle label. Inspired by the Scottish island of Iona, the gin contains 18 botanicals. Guests can attend two unique gin masterclasses on board, including one that allows you to craft your own gin with expert guidance.

8. (tie) Costa Toscana

• Cruise line: Costa
• Gross tonnage: 185,010
• Staterooms: 2,612
• Max. passengers: 6,554

Italian line Costa Cruises’ newest ship, Costa Toscana , comes in at the eighth-largest cruise ship in the world. The Tuscan-inspired vessel features furnishings, fabrics, and accessories all made in Italy. Even the driftwood used to craft dining tables at Archipelago restaurant was harvested from the Italian shoreline by Guardians of the Coast .

Food is a major focus of the ship, with many of her 21 restaurants offering authentic local cuisine by chefs including Bruno Barbieri, Hélène Darroze, and Ángel León. Even the littlest cruisers have a special place to eat— Squok Restaurant is dedicated to families with kids.

If all the amazing food on board inspires you, be sure to check out Toscana ‘s Food LAB , where guests can learn to prepare their own culinary creations alongside the ship’s chefs.

8. (tie) Costa Smeralda

Tied for eighth place is Costa Smeralda , a favorite of sustainability-minded cruisers. Smeralda was the first in Costa’s fleet powered by liquefied natural gas (sister ship Toscana now also shares this feature), a fuel source that reduces the ship’s environmental impact.

Other eco-friendly features include LED lighting throughout the ship, an onboard desalinization plant that sustainably harvests onboard water directly from the sea, and systems that recover the engines’ heat to reduce energy use.

Costa Smeralda earned the coveted Green Plus notation from RINA, only awarded to the most environmentally friendly cruise ships.

• Cruise line: P&O Cruises
• Gross tonnage: 185,581
• Length: 1130 ft / 344.5 m
• Staterooms: 2614
• Max. passengers: 6685

P&O UK ‘s newest ship Arvia is also the cruise line’s largest, and debuts at #7 on the 2023 list of biggest cruise ships. An Excel-class ship like Iona , Arvia is similar but boasts some key differences.

Like her sister, this ship also features a Sky Dome over the pool area—but Arvia ‘s is retractable to allow for alfresco swimming, dining, and entertainment when the weather is right.

Arvia is home to the fleet’s first swim-up bar , complete with plenty of in-water seating, allowing guests to order and enjoy a cocktail right in the pool.

The new ship debuted several new restaurant concepts, including Green & Co featuring Mizuhana , featuring fish and plant-based cuisine. Also new are Roast at The Quays for traditional British lunches and the 6th Street Diner , an American-style diner serving breakfast,brunch, and dinner.

Arvia also has the first rum distillery at sea ! The Tidal Rum has partnered with P&O to produce the unique rum blend on the ship at Anderson’s Bar .

6. MSC World Europa

• Gross tonnage: 215,863
• Length: 1094 ft / 333.3 m
• Max. beam: 154 ft / 47 m
• Staterooms: 2626
• Max. passengers: 6762

With the debut of MSC World Europa in December of 2022, MSC Cruises now has a whopping seven ships on the list of the top 20 biggest cruise ships in the world—the most of any cruise line!

The Geneva-based company has been working diligently to expand the fleet and MSC’s newest cruise ship is a whopper of a vessel.

The ship is an astounding 21 decks high (there’s a deck 22, but cruise superstition skips deck 13), four decks taller than the largest cruise ship in 2023. Sixteen of those decks are passenger-accessible.

Much like the megaships offered by Royal Caribbean, MSC World Europa is divided into several districts that contain similar offerings—a must-have on any gargantuan cruise ship. Guests can visit the adults-only Zen district for a bit of calm, or the Family district with ten kids’ facilities offering fun for little cruisers and their grownups.

Ranking among the top ships with the most water features at sea, World Europa offers six pools and 14 hot tubs , along with an aquapark featuring multiple waterslides.

MSC World Europa is also the line’s first LNG-powered cruise ship —and the biggest liquefied natural gas powered cruise ship in the world! This cleaner alternative to traditional marine fuel significantly reduces carbon, sulfur, and nitrogen oxide emissions.

5. Allure of the Seas

• Cruise line: Royal Caribbean
• Year built: 2010
• Gross tonnage: 225,282
• Length: 1,180 ft / 360 m
• Max. beam: 198 ft / 60.5 m
• Staterooms: 2,742
• Max. passengers: 6,780

Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas ranks as the fifth largest cruise ship in 2022. She’s the second (and smallest) of the Oasis-class ships.

Allure of the Seas features seven themed “neighborhoods”—the Royal Promenade, Central Park, Entertainment Place, Boardwalk, Pool and Sports Zone, Vitality at Sea, and the Youth Zone.

With a ten-deck-high zip line and the interactive H2O Zone waterpark, Allure of the Seas is a favorite ship for adventurous cruisers of all ages.

4. Oasis of the Seas

• Year built: 2009
• Gross tonnage: 226,838

Number four is Oasis of the Seas , the first of the namesake Oasis class, and the oldest ship to make the top 15 list. Built in 2009, she was then the largest cruise ship in the world, and the first to have a maximum capacity of over 6000 passengers!

Oasis of the Seas may be an older ship, but she doesn’t look like one! In 2019 she had a $165 million transformation that brought the ship up to date.

Entertainment abounds on this ship, from the splashy Aqua80 show in the AquaTheater to Music Hall , a live music venue with plenty of floor space for dancing. Or try one of the four onboard water slides including the ten-story-high Ultimate Abyss .

3. Harmony of the Seas

• Year built: 2016
• Gross tonnage: 226,963
• Length: 1,188.1 ft / 362.12 m
• Max. beam: 215.5 ft / 65.7 m
• Staterooms: 2,747
• Max. passengers: 6,687

Coming in at number three is Royal Caribbean’s Harmony of the Seas , built in 2016 at a cost of 1.3 billion dollars.

With her three pool decks containing an impressive collection of pools and hot tubs, you’ll never feel crowded taking a dip. You can even learn how to SCUBA dive , right on the ship! Aboard Harmony of the Seas , guests have the opportunity to take the PADI® Open Water Diver Course, culminating with open water dives at various ports of call.

After you’ve worked up an appetite in the pool, try one of Harmony of the Seas ‘ twenty restaurants, serving over 200 different dishes on a daily basis.

2. Symphony of the Seas

• Gross tonnage: 228,081
• Length: 1,184.42 ft / 361.011 m
• Staterooms: 2,759
• Max. passengers: 6,680

The largest cruise ship in the world until 2022, Symphony of the Seas comes in second—but is still a behemoth at 1184 feet and 228,081 gross tons!

Built in 2018, Symphony of the Seas boasts some fun tech! Check out the Big Wonder , a seven-ton canopy lit with color-changing LEDs that cast a glow over the ship’s Solarium at night.

Enjoy a cocktail at Bionic Bar , where one of two robot bartenders can shake you up the perfect martini. But don’t worry, the ship’s 13 other bars and lounges are staffed by friendly humans.

Or play a lively game of glow-in-the-dark laser tag to battle for control of Planet Z —when the ship’s ice rink is temporarily transformed into an alien world, of course.

1. Wonder of the Seas

• Gross tonnage: 236,857
• Length: 1,187.8 ft / 362.04 m
• Max. beam: 210 ft / 64 m
• Staterooms: 2,859
• Max. passengers: 6,988

Wonder of the Seas from Royal Caribbean International is the cruise line’s newest—and the world’s biggest cruise ship, at almost 1188 feet long and 236,857 gross tons!

Delivered in February 2022, Wonder of the Seas made her maiden voyage from Fort Lauderdale on March 4, 2022.

Like the other Oasis-class ships, she’s organized into neighborhoods, but with the addition of an eighth unique section. This new neighborhood is dedicated to suite guests, with a plunge pool and bar as well as the suites-only Coastal Kitchen and Suites Lounge .

Wonder of the Seas offers some exciting new features—in addition to boasting the largest poolside movie screen of any RCCL ship there’s also The Vue , a cantilevered bar offering panoramic ocean views.

For the kids, there’s the new Wonder Playscape —an underwater-themed play area with climbing walls and an interactive puzzle mural.

Comparing the 20 biggest cruise ships in the world

Largest cruise ships faq.

Ships are measured by gross tonnage, which is a measure of internal volume.

Maximum beam is the measurement at the widest part of a ship’s hull.

Royal Caribbean’s Wonder of the Seas is the world’s largest cruise ship, with a gross tonnage of 236,857.

Royal Caribbean’s Wonder of the Seas is the world’s longest cruise ship at 1,187.8 ft (362.04 m).

Royal Caribbean’s Wonder of the Seas can hold the most passengers, with a maximum occupancy of 6,988.

Royal Caribbean’s Wonder of the Seas has the most passenger staterooms, at 2,859.

Have you sailed on one of the largest cruise ships in the world? Or do you prefer cruising on a smaller ship? I’d love to hear in the comments below!

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Hannah Waddingham Tapped for Godmother of Princess Cruises’ Sun Princess

Andrea Santillan

• April 9, 2024

Princess Cruises has announced that British actress and singer Hannah Waddingham will serve as the godmother of Sun Princess during its christening ceremony in April.

Waddingham is best known for performing in AppleTV+’s production, Ted Lasso. Her portrayal of Rebecca Walton in the comedy-drama series earned her a Critics Choice Television Award, a Primetime Emmy, and a Screen Actors Guild Award, plus nominations from the Screen Actors Guild and Golden Globes.

The 49-year-old celebrity has been cast in two movies this May: The Fall Guy with Ryan Gosling and Emily Blunt and the animated film Garfield. She will also be in Mission: Impossible—Dead Reckoning Part Two, scheduled for a 2025 release.

Waddingham is also an accomplished stage actress. Her impressive 4-octave vocal range has landed her roles in Broadway and London’s West End.

As godmother to the Sun Princess , Waddingham joins a notable list of cruise ship godparents. It includes the likes of Princess Diana (Royal Princess, 1984), Kate Middleton (Royal Princess, 2013), Sophia Loren (Crown Princess, 1990),  Audrey Hepburn (Star Princess, 1989), and Martha Stewart (Crown Princess, 2006).

Sun Princess’ Christening Ceremony in April

The Sun Princess will be christened this April 23 at the Port of Barcelona during a 10-day roundtrip sailing from Civitavecchia. The ship will call on Mediterranean ports like Cartagena, Gibraltar, Genoa, and Marseille during the voyage.

Weighing 177,882 tons, the 4,300-passenger Sun Princess entered service last February as the first Sphere-class vessel. It boasts spacious amenities, breathtaking views, and unique venues like The Dome, a glass-enclosed area with a pool that transforms into a stage in the evening.

The vessel houses 30 bars and restaurants, the cruise line’s largest casino, a 3-story dining area, a family activity zone, 1,500 staterooms with balconies , and a shopping experience with 200 premium brands.

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The ultimate family holiday: Aboard the biggest cruise ship in the world

MIAMI – When it comes to architecture and modes of transport, I tend to think small is beautiful.

So I had misgivings when I read that Royal Caribbean’s new Icon of the Seas is the biggest cruise ship in the world.

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Crying Myself to Sleep on the Biggest Cruise Ship Ever

Seven agonizing nights aboard the Icon of the Seas

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Updated at 2:44 p.m. ET on April 6, 2024.

This article was featured in the One Story to Read Today newsletter. Sign up for it here .

MY FIRST GLIMPSE of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas, from the window of an approaching Miami cab, brings on a feeling of vertigo, nausea, amazement, and distress. I shut my eyes in defense, as my brain tells my optic nerve to try again.

The ship makes no sense, vertically or horizontally. It makes no sense on sea, or on land, or in outer space. It looks like a hodgepodge of domes and minarets, tubes and canopies, like Istanbul had it been designed by idiots. Vibrant, oversignifying colors are stacked upon other such colors, decks perched over still more decks; the only comfort is a row of lifeboats ringing its perimeter. There is no imposed order, no cogent thought, and, for those who do not harbor a totalitarian sense of gigantomania, no visual mercy. This is the biggest cruise ship ever built, and I have been tasked with witnessing its inaugural voyage.

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“Author embarks on their first cruise-ship voyage” has been a staple of American essay writing for almost three decades, beginning with David Foster Wallace’s “A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again,” which was first published in 1996 under the title “Shipping Out.” Since then, many admirable writers have widened and diversified the genre. Usually the essayist commissioned to take to the sea is in their first or second flush of youth and is ready to sharpen their wit against the hull of the offending vessel. I am 51, old and tired, having seen much of the world as a former travel journalist, and mostly what I do in both life and prose is shrug while muttering to my imaginary dachshund, “This too shall pass.” But the Icon of the Seas will not countenance a shrug. The Icon of the Seas is the Linda Loman of cruise ships, exclaiming that attention must be paid. And here I am in late January with my one piece of luggage and useless gray winter jacket and passport, zipping through the Port of Miami en route to the gangway that will separate me from the bulk of North America for more than seven days, ready to pay it in full.

The aforementioned gangway opens up directly onto a thriving mall (I will soon learn it is imperiously called the “Royal Promenade”), presently filled with yapping passengers beneath a ceiling studded with balloons ready to drop. Crew members from every part of the global South, as well as a few Balkans, are shepherding us along while pressing flutes of champagne into our hands. By a humming Starbucks, I drink as many of these as I can and prepare to find my cabin. I show my blue Suite Sky SeaPass Card (more on this later, much more) to a smiling woman from the Philippines, and she tells me to go “aft.” Which is where, now? As someone who has rarely sailed on a vessel grander than the Staten Island Ferry, I am confused. It turns out that the aft is the stern of the ship, or, for those of us who don’t know what a stern or an aft are, its ass. The nose of the ship, responsible for separating the waves before it, is also called a bow, and is marked for passengers as the FWD , or forward. The part of the contemporary sailing vessel where the malls are clustered is called the midship. I trust that you have enjoyed this nautical lesson.

I ascend via elevator to my suite on Deck 11. This is where I encounter my first terrible surprise. My suite windows and balcony do not face the ocean. Instead, they look out onto another shopping mall. This mall is the one that’s called Central Park, perhaps in homage to the Olmsted-designed bit of greenery in the middle of my hometown. Although on land I would be delighted to own a suite with Central Park views, here I am deeply depressed. To sail on a ship and not wake up to a vast blue carpet of ocean? Unthinkable.

Allow me a brief preamble here. The story you are reading was commissioned at a moment when most staterooms on the Icon were sold out. In fact, so enthralled by the prospect of this voyage were hard-core mariners that the ship’s entire inventory of guest rooms (the Icon can accommodate up to 7,600 passengers, but its inaugural journey was reduced to 5,000 or so for a less crowded experience) was almost immediately sold out. Hence, this publication was faced with the shocking prospect of paying nearly $19,000 to procure for this solitary passenger an entire suite—not including drinking expenses—all for the privilege of bringing you this article. But the suite in question doesn’t even have a view of the ocean! I sit down hard on my soft bed. Nineteen thousand dollars for this .

The viewless suite does have its pluses. In addition to all the Malin+Goetz products in my dual bathrooms, I am granted use of a dedicated Suite Deck lounge; access to Coastal Kitchen, a superior restaurant for Suites passengers; complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream (“the fastest Internet at Sea”) “for one device per person for the whole cruise duration”; a pair of bathrobes (one of which comes prestained with what looks like a large expectoration by the greenest lizard on Earth); and use of the Grove Suite Sun, an area on Decks 18 and 19 with food and deck chairs reserved exclusively for Suite passengers. I also get reserved seating for a performance of The Wizard of Oz , an ice-skating tribute to the periodic table, and similar provocations. The very color of my Suite Sky SeaPass Card, an oceanic blue as opposed to the cloying royal purple of the standard non-Suite passenger, will soon provoke envy and admiration. But as high as my status may be, there are those on board who have much higher status still, and I will soon learn to bow before them.

In preparation for sailing, I have “priced in,” as they say on Wall Street, the possibility that I may come from a somewhat different monde than many of the other cruisers. Without falling into stereotypes or preconceptions, I prepare myself for a friendly outspokenness on the part of my fellow seafarers that may not comply with modern DEI standards. I believe in meeting people halfway, and so the day before flying down to Miami, I visited what remains of Little Italy to purchase a popular T-shirt that reads DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL across the breast in the colors of the Italian flag. My wife recommended that I bring one of my many T-shirts featuring Snoopy and the Peanuts gang, as all Americans love the beagle and his friends. But I naively thought that my meatball T-shirt would be more suitable for conversation-starting. “Oh, and who is your ‘daddy’?” some might ask upon seeing it. “And how long have you been his ‘little meatball’?” And so on.

I put on my meatball T-shirt and head for one of the dining rooms to get a late lunch. In the elevator, I stick out my chest for all to read the funny legend upon it, but soon I realize that despite its burnished tricolor letters, no one takes note. More to the point, no one takes note of me. Despite my attempts at bridge building, the very sight of me (small, ethnic, without a cap bearing the name of a football team) elicits no reaction from other passengers. Most often, they will small-talk over me as if I don’t exist. This brings to mind the travails of David Foster Wallace , who felt so ostracized by his fellow passengers that he retreated to his cabin for much of his voyage. And Wallace was raised primarily in the Midwest and was a much larger, more American-looking meatball than I am. If he couldn’t talk to these people, how will I? What if I leave this ship without making any friends at all, despite my T-shirt? I am a social creature, and the prospect of seven days alone and apart is saddening. Wallace’s stateroom, at least, had a view of the ocean, a kind of cheap eternity.

Worse awaits me in the dining room. This is a large, multichandeliered room where I attended my safety training (I was shown how to put on a flotation vest; it is a very simple procedure). But the maître d’ politely refuses me entry in an English that seems to verge on another language. “I’m sorry, this is only for pendejos ,” he seems to be saying. I push back politely and he repeats himself. Pendejos ? Piranhas? There’s some kind of P-word to which I am not attuned. Meanwhile elderly passengers stream right past, powered by their limbs, walkers, and electric wheelchairs. “It is only pendejo dining today, sir.” “But I have a suite!” I say, already starting to catch on to the ship’s class system. He examines my card again. “But you are not a pendejo ,” he confirms. I am wearing a DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL T-shirt, I want to say to him. I am the essence of pendejo .

Eventually, I give up and head to the plebeian buffet on Deck 15, which has an aquatic-styled name I have now forgotten. Before gaining entry to this endless cornucopia of reheated food, one passes a washing station of many sinks and soap dispensers, and perhaps the most intriguing character on the entire ship. He is Mr. Washy Washy—or, according to his name tag, Nielbert of the Philippines—and he is dressed as a taco (on other occasions, I’ll see him dressed as a burger). Mr. Washy Washy performs an eponymous song in spirited, indeed flamboyant English: “Washy, washy, wash your hands, WASHY WASHY!” The dangers of norovirus and COVID on a cruise ship this size (a giant fellow ship was stricken with the former right after my voyage) makes Mr. Washy Washy an essential member of the crew. The problem lies with the food at the end of Washy’s rainbow. The buffet is groaning with what sounds like sophisticated dishes—marinated octopus, boiled egg with anchovy, chorizo, lobster claws—but every animal tastes tragically the same, as if there was only one creature available at the market, a “cruisipus” bred specifically for Royal Caribbean dining. The “vegetables” are no better. I pick up a tomato slice and look right through it. It tastes like cellophane. I sit alone, apart from the couples and parents with gaggles of children, as “We Are Family” echoes across the buffet space.

I may have failed to mention that all this time, the Icon of the Seas has not left port. As the fiery mango of the subtropical setting sun makes Miami’s condo skyline even more apocalyptic, the ship shoves off beneath a perfunctory display of fireworks. After the sun sets, in the far, dark distance, another circus-lit cruise ship ruptures the waves before us. We glance at it with pity, because it is by definition a smaller ship than our own. I am on Deck 15, outside the buffet and overlooking a bunch of pools (the Icon has seven of them), drinking a frilly drink that I got from one of the bars (the Icon has 15 of them), still too shy to speak to anyone, despite Sister Sledge’s assertion that all on the ship are somehow related.

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The ship’s passage away from Ron DeSantis’s Florida provides no frisson, no sense of developing “sea legs,” as the ship is too large to register the presence of waves unless a mighty wind adds significant chop. It is time for me to register the presence of the 5,000 passengers around me, even if they refuse to register mine. My fellow travelers have prepared for this trip with personally decorated T-shirts celebrating the importance of this voyage. The simplest ones say ICON INAUGURAL ’24 on the back and the family name on the front. Others attest to an over-the-top love of cruise ships: WARNING! MAY START TALKING ABOUT CRUISING . Still others are artisanally designed and celebrate lifetimes spent married while cruising (on ships, of course). A couple possibly in their 90s are wearing shirts whose backs feature a drawing of a cruise liner, two flamingos with ostensibly male and female characteristics, and the legend “ HUSBAND AND WIFE Cruising Partners FOR LIFE WE MAY NOT HAVE IT All Together BUT TOGETHER WE HAVE IT ALL .” (The words not in all caps have been written in cursive.) A real journalist or a more intrepid conversationalist would have gone up to the couple and asked them to explain the longevity of their marriage vis-à-vis their love of cruising. But instead I head to my mall suite, take off my meatball T-shirt, and allow the first tears of the cruise to roll down my cheeks slowly enough that I briefly fall asleep amid the moisture and salt.

I WAKE UP with a hangover. Oh God. Right. I cannot believe all of that happened last night. A name floats into my cobwebbed, nauseated brain: “Ayn Rand.” Jesus Christ.

I breakfast alone at the Coastal Kitchen. The coffee tastes fine and the eggs came out of a bird. The ship rolls slightly this morning; I can feel it in my thighs and my schlong, the parts of me that are most receptive to danger.

I had a dangerous conversation last night. After the sun set and we were at least 50 miles from shore (most modern cruise ships sail at about 23 miles an hour), I lay in bed softly hiccupping, my arms stretched out exactly like Jesus on the cross, the sound of the distant waves missing from my mall-facing suite, replaced by the hum of air-conditioning and children shouting in Spanish through the vents of my two bathrooms. I decided this passivity was unacceptable. As an immigrant, I feel duty-bound to complete the tasks I am paid for, which means reaching out and trying to understand my fellow cruisers. So I put on a normal James Perse T-shirt and headed for one of the bars on the Royal Promenade—the Schooner Bar, it was called, if memory serves correctly.

I sat at the bar for a martini and two Negronis. An old man with thick, hairy forearms drank next to me, very silent and Hemingwaylike, while a dreadlocked piano player tinkled out a series of excellent Elton John covers. To my right, a young white couple—he in floral shorts, she in a light, summery miniskirt with a fearsome diamond ring, neither of them in football regalia—chatted with an elderly couple. Do it , I commanded myself. Open your mouth. Speak! Speak without being spoken to. Initiate. A sentence fragment caught my ear from the young woman, “Cherry Hill.” This is a suburb of Philadelphia in New Jersey, and I had once been there for a reading at a synagogue. “Excuse me,” I said gently to her. “Did you just mention Cherry Hill? It’s a lovely place.”

As it turned out, the couple now lived in Fort Lauderdale (the number of Floridians on the cruise surprised me, given that Southern Florida is itself a kind of cruise ship, albeit one slowly sinking), but soon they were talking with me exclusively—the man potbellied, with a chin like a hard-boiled egg; the woman as svelte as if she were one of the many Ukrainian members of the crew—the elderly couple next to them forgotten. This felt as groundbreaking as the first time I dared to address an American in his native tongue, as a child on a bus in Queens (“On my foot you are standing, Mister”).

“I don’t want to talk politics,” the man said. “But they’re going to eighty-six Biden and put Michelle in.”

I considered the contradictions of his opening conversational gambit, but decided to play along. “People like Michelle,” I said, testing the waters. The husband sneered, but the wife charitably put forward that the former first lady was “more personable” than Joe Biden. “They’re gonna eighty-six Biden,” the husband repeated. “He can’t put a sentence together.”

After I mentioned that I was a writer—though I presented myself as a writer of teleplays instead of novels and articles such as this one—the husband told me his favorite writer was Ayn Rand. “Ayn Rand, she came here with nothing,” the husband said. “I work with a lot of Cubans, so …” I wondered if I should mention what I usually do to ingratiate myself with Republicans or libertarians: the fact that my finances improved after pass-through corporations were taxed differently under Donald Trump. Instead, I ordered another drink and the couple did the same, and I told him that Rand and I were born in the same city, St. Petersburg/Leningrad, and that my family also came here with nothing. Now the bonding and drinking began in earnest, and several more rounds appeared. Until it all fell apart.

Read: Gary Shteyngart on watching Russian television for five days straight

My new friend, whom I will refer to as Ayn, called out to a buddy of his across the bar, and suddenly a young couple, both covered in tattoos, appeared next to us. “He fucking punked me,” Ayn’s frat-boy-like friend called out as he put his arm around Ayn, while his sizable partner sizzled up to Mrs. Rand. Both of them had a look I have never seen on land—their eyes projecting absence and enmity in equal measure. In the ’90s, I drank with Russian soldiers fresh from Chechnya and wandered the streets of wartime Zagreb, but I have never seen such undisguised hostility toward both me and perhaps the universe at large. I was briefly introduced to this psychopathic pair, but neither of them wanted to have anything to do with me, and the tattooed woman would not even reveal her Christian name to me (she pretended to have the same first name as Mrs. Rand). To impress his tattooed friends, Ayn made fun of the fact that as a television writer, I’d worked on the series Succession (which, it would turn out, practically nobody on the ship had watched), instead of the far more palatable, in his eyes, zombie drama of last year. And then my new friends drifted away from me into an angry private conversation—“He punked me!”—as I ordered another drink for myself, scared of the dead-eyed arrivals whose gaze never registered in the dim wattage of the Schooner Bar, whose terrifying voices and hollow laughs grated like unoiled gears against the crooning of “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road.”

But today is a new day for me and my hangover. After breakfast, I explore the ship’s so-called neighborhoods . There’s the AquaDome, where one can find a food hall and an acrobatic sound-and-light aquatic show. Central Park has a premium steak house, a sushi joint, and a used Rolex that can be bought for $8,000 on land here proudly offered at $17,000. There’s the aforementioned Royal Promenade, where I had drunk with the Rands, and where a pair of dueling pianos duel well into the night. There’s Surfside, a kids’ neighborhood full of sugary garbage, which looks out onto the frothy trail that the behemoth leaves behind itself. Thrill Island refers to the collection of tubes that clutter the ass of the ship and offer passengers six waterslides and a surfing simulation. There’s the Hideaway, an adult zone that plays music from a vomit-slathered, Brit-filled Alicante nightclub circa 1996 and proves a big favorite with groups of young Latin American customers. And, most hurtfully, there’s the Suite Neighborhood.

I say hurtfully because as a Suite passenger I should be here, though my particular suite is far from the others. Whereas I am stuck amid the riffraff of Deck 11, this section is on the highborn Decks 16 and 17, and in passing, I peek into the spacious, tall-ceilinged staterooms from the hallway, dazzled by the glint of the waves and sun. For $75,000, one multifloor suite even comes with its own slide between floors, so that a family may enjoy this particular terror in private. There is a quiet splendor to the Suite Neighborhood. I see fewer stickers and signs and drawings than in my own neighborhood—for example, MIKE AND DIANA PROUDLY SERVED U.S. MARINE CORPS RETIRED . No one here needs to announce their branch of service or rank; they are simply Suites, and this is where they belong. Once again, despite my hard work and perseverance, I have been disallowed from the true American elite. Once again, I am “Not our class, dear.” I am reminded of watching The Love Boat on my grandmother’s Zenith, which either was given to her or we found in the trash (I get our many malfunctioning Zeniths confused) and whose tube got so hot, I would put little chunks of government cheese on a thin tissue atop it to give our welfare treat a pleasant, Reagan-era gooeyness. I could not understand English well enough then to catch the nuances of that seafaring program, but I knew that there were differences in the status of the passengers, and that sometimes those differences made them sad. Still, this ship, this plenty—every few steps, there are complimentary nachos or milkshakes or gyros on offer—was the fatty fuel of my childhood dreams. If only I had remained a child.

I walk around the outdoor decks looking for company. There is a middle-aged African American couple who always seem to be asleep in each other’s arms, probably exhausted from the late capitalism they regularly encounter on land. There is far more diversity on this ship than I expected. Many couples are a testament to Loving v. Virginia , and there is a large group of folks whose T-shirts read MELANIN AT SEA / IT’S THE MELANIN FOR ME . I smile when I see them, but then some young kids from the group makes Mr. Washy Washy do a cruel, caricatured “Burger Dance” (today he is in his burger getup), and I think, Well, so much for intersectionality .

At the infinity pool on Deck 17, I spot some elderly women who could be ethnic and from my part of the world, and so I jump in. I am proved correct! Many of them seem to be originally from Queens (“Corona was still great when it was all Italian”), though they are now spread across the tristate area. We bond over the way “Ron-kon-koma” sounds when announced in Penn Station.

“Everyone is here for a different reason,” one of them tells me. She and her ex-husband last sailed together four years ago to prove to themselves that their marriage was truly over. Her 15-year-old son lost his virginity to “an Irish young lady” while their ship was moored in Ravenna, Italy. The gaggle of old-timers competes to tell me their favorite cruising stories and tips. “A guy proposed in Central Park a couple of years ago”—many Royal Caribbean ships apparently have this ridiculous communal area—“and she ran away screaming!” “If you’re diamond-class, you get four drinks for free.” “A different kind of passenger sails out of Bayonne.” (This, perhaps, is racially coded.) “Sometimes, if you tip the bartender $5, your next drink will be free.”

“Everyone’s here for a different reason,” the woman whose marriage ended on a cruise tells me again. “Some people are here for bad reasons—the drinkers and the gamblers. Some people are here for medical reasons.” I have seen more than a few oxygen tanks and at least one woman clearly undergoing very serious chemo. Some T-shirts celebrate good news about a cancer diagnosis. This might be someone’s last cruise or week on Earth. For these women, who have spent months, if not years, at sea, cruising is a ritual as well as a life cycle: first love, last love, marriage, divorce, death.

Read: The last place on Earth any tourist should go

I have talked with these women for so long, tonight I promise myself that after a sad solitary dinner I will not try to seek out company at the bars in the mall or the adult-themed Hideaway. I have enough material to fulfill my duties to this publication. As I approach my orphaned suite, I run into the aggro young people who stole Mr. and Mrs. Rand away from me the night before. The tattooed apparitions pass me without a glance. She is singing something violent about “Stuttering Stanley” (a character in a popular horror movie, as I discover with my complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream Internet at Sea) and he’s loudly shouting about “all the money I’ve lost,” presumably at the casino in the bowels of the ship.

So these bent psychos out of a Cormac McCarthy novel are angrily inhabiting my deck. As I mewl myself to sleep, I envision a limited series for HBO or some other streamer, a kind of low-rent White Lotus , where several aggressive couples conspire to throw a shy intellectual interloper overboard. I type the scenario into my phone. As I fall asleep, I think of what the woman who recently divorced her husband and whose son became a man through the good offices of the Irish Republic told me while I was hoisting myself out of the infinity pool. “I’m here because I’m an explorer. I’m here because I’m trying something new.” What if I allowed myself to believe in her fantasy?

“YOU REALLY STARTED AT THE TOP,” they tell me. I’m at the Coastal Kitchen for my eggs and corned-beef hash, and the maître d’ has slotted me in between two couples. Fueled by coffee or perhaps intrigued by my relative youth, they strike up a conversation with me. As always, people are shocked that this is my first cruise. They contrast the Icon favorably with all the preceding liners in the Royal Caribbean fleet, usually commenting on the efficiency of the elevators that hurl us from deck to deck (as in many large corporate buildings, the elevators ask you to choose a floor and then direct you to one of many lifts). The couple to my right, from Palo Alto—he refers to his “porn mustache” and calls his wife “my cougar” because she is two years older—tell me they are “Pandemic Pinnacles.”

This is the day that my eyes will be opened. Pinnacles , it is explained to me over translucent cantaloupe, have sailed with Royal Caribbean for 700 ungodly nights. Pandemic Pinnacles took advantage of the two-for-one accrual rate of Pinnacle points during the pandemic, when sailing on a cruise ship was even more ill-advised, to catapult themselves into Pinnacle status.

Because of the importance of the inaugural voyage of the world’s largest cruise liner, more than 200 Pinnacles are on this ship, a startling number, it seems. Mrs. Palo Alto takes out a golden badge that I have seen affixed over many a breast, which reads CROWN AND ANCHOR SOCIETY along with her name. This is the coveted badge of the Pinnacle. “You should hear all the whining in Guest Services,” her husband tells me. Apparently, the Pinnacles who are not also Suites like us are all trying to use their status to get into Coastal Kitchen, our elite restaurant. Even a Pinnacle needs to be a Suite to access this level of corned-beef hash.

“We’re just baby Pinnacles,” Mrs. Palo Alto tells me, describing a kind of internal class struggle among the Pinnacle elite for ever higher status.

And now I understand what the maître d’ was saying to me on the first day of my cruise. He wasn’t saying “ pendejo .” He was saying “Pinnacle.” The dining room was for Pinnacles only, all those older people rolling in like the tide on their motorized scooters.

And now I understand something else: This whole thing is a cult. And like most cults, it can’t help but mirror the endless American fight for status. Like Keith Raniere’s NXIVM, where different-colored sashes were given out to connote rank among Raniere’s branded acolytes, this is an endless competition among Pinnacles, Suites, Diamond-Plusers, and facing-the-mall, no-balcony purple SeaPass Card peasants, not to mention the many distinctions within each category. The more you cruise, the higher your status. No wonder a section of the Royal Promenade is devoted to getting passengers to book their next cruise during the one they should be enjoying now. No wonder desperate Royal Caribbean offers (“FINAL HOURS”) crowded my email account weeks before I set sail. No wonder the ship’s jewelry store, the Royal Bling, is selling a $100,000 golden chalice that will entitle its owner to drink free on Royal Caribbean cruises for life. (One passenger was already gaming out whether her 28-year-old son was young enough to “just about earn out” on the chalice or if that ship had sailed.) No wonder this ship was sold out months before departure , and we had to pay $19,000 for a horrid suite away from the Suite Neighborhood. No wonder the most mythical hero of Royal Caribbean lore is someone named Super Mario, who has cruised so often, he now has his own working desk on many ships. This whole experience is part cult, part nautical pyramid scheme.

From the June 2014 issue: Ship of wonks

“The toilets are amazing,” the Palo Altos are telling me. “One flush and you’re done.” “They don’t understand how energy-efficient these ships are,” the husband of the other couple is telling me. “They got the LNG”—liquefied natural gas, which is supposed to make the Icon a boon to the environment (a concept widely disputed and sometimes ridiculed by environmentalists).

But I’m thinking along a different line of attack as I spear my last pallid slice of melon. For my streaming limited series, a Pinnacle would have to get killed by either an outright peasant or a Suite without an ocean view. I tell my breakfast companions my idea.

“Oh, for sure a Pinnacle would have to be killed,” Mr. Palo Alto, the Pandemic Pinnacle, says, touching his porn mustache thoughtfully as his wife nods.

“THAT’S RIGHT, IT’S your time, buddy!” Hubert, my fun-loving Panamanian cabin attendant, shouts as I step out of my suite in a robe. “Take it easy, buddy!”

I have come up with a new dressing strategy. Instead of trying to impress with my choice of T-shirts, I have decided to start wearing a robe, as one does at a resort property on land, with a proper spa and hammam. The response among my fellow cruisers has been ecstatic. “Look at you in the robe!” Mr. Rand cries out as we pass each other by the Thrill Island aqua park. “You’re living the cruise life! You know, you really drank me under the table that night.” I laugh as we part ways, but my soul cries out, Please spend more time with me, Mr. and Mrs. Rand; I so need the company .

In my white robe, I am a stately presence, a refugee from a better limited series, a one-man crossover episode. (Only Suites are granted these robes to begin with.) Today, I will try many of the activities these ships have on offer to provide their clientele with a sense of never-ceasing motion. Because I am already at Thrill Island, I decide to climb the staircase to what looks like a mast on an old-fashioned ship (terrified, because I am afraid of heights) to try a ride called “Storm Chasers,” which is part of the “Category 6” water park, named in honor of one of the storms that may someday do away with the Port of Miami entirely. Storm Chasers consists of falling from the “mast” down a long, twisting neon tube filled with water, like being the camera inside your own colonoscopy, as you hold on to the handles of a mat, hoping not to die. The tube then flops you down headfirst into a trough of water, a Royal Caribbean baptism. It both knocks my breath out and makes me sad.

In keeping with the aquatic theme, I attend a show at the AquaDome. To the sound of “Live and Let Die,” a man in a harness gyrates to and fro in the sultry air. I saw something very similar in the back rooms of the famed Berghain club in early-aughts Berlin. Soon another harnessed man is gyrating next to the first. Ja , I think to myself, I know how this ends. Now will come the fisting , natürlich . But the show soon devolves into the usual Marvel-film-grade nonsense, with too much light and sound signifying nichts . If any fisting is happening, it is probably in the Suite Neighborhood, inside a cabin marked with an upside-down pineapple, which I understand means a couple are ready to swing, and I will see none of it.

I go to the ice show, which is a kind of homage—if that’s possible—to the periodic table, done with the style and pomp and masterful precision that would please the likes of Kim Jong Un, if only he could afford Royal Caribbean talent. At one point, the dancers skate to the theme song of Succession . “See that!” I want to say to my fellow Suites—at “cultural” events, we have a special section reserved for us away from the commoners—“ Succession ! It’s even better than the zombie show! Open your minds!”

Finally, I visit a comedy revue in an enormous and too brightly lit version of an “intimate,” per Royal Caribbean literature, “Manhattan comedy club.” Many of the jokes are about the cruising life. “I’ve lived on ships for 20 years,” one of the middle-aged comedians says. “I can only see so many Filipino homosexuals dressed as a taco.” He pauses while the audience laughs. “I am so fired tonight,” he says. He segues into a Trump impression and then Biden falling asleep at the microphone, which gets the most laughs. “Anyone here from Fort Leonard Wood?” another comedian asks. Half the crowd seems to cheer. As I fall asleep that night, I realize another connection I have failed to make, and one that may explain some of the diversity on this vessel—many of its passengers have served in the military.

As a coddled passenger with a suite, I feel like I am starting to understand what it means to have a rank and be constantly reminded of it. There are many espresso makers , I think as I look across the expanse of my officer-grade quarters before closing my eyes, but this one is mine .

A shocking sight greets me beyond the pools of Deck 17 as I saunter over to the Coastal Kitchen for my morning intake of slightly sour Americanos. A tiny city beneath a series of perfectly pressed green mountains. Land! We have docked for a brief respite in Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts and Nevis. I wolf down my egg scramble to be one of the first passengers off the ship. Once past the gangway, I barely refrain from kissing the ground. I rush into the sights and sounds of this scruffy island city, sampling incredible conch curry and buckets of non-Starbucks coffee. How wonderful it is to be where God intended humans to be: on land. After all, I am neither a fish nor a mall rat. This is my natural environment. Basseterre may not be Havana, but there are signs of human ingenuity and desire everywhere you look. The Black Table Grill Has been Relocated to Soho Village, Market Street, Directly Behind of, Gary’s Fruits and Flower Shop. Signed. THE PORK MAN reads a sign stuck to a wall. Now, that is how you write a sign. A real sign, not the come-ons for overpriced Rolexes that blink across the screens of the Royal Promenade.

“Hey, tie your shoestring!” a pair of laughing ladies shout to me across the street.

“Thank you!” I shout back. Shoestring! “Thank you very much.”

A man in Independence Square Park comes by and asks if I want to play with his monkey. I haven’t heard that pickup line since the Penn Station of the 1980s. But then he pulls a real monkey out of a bag. The monkey is wearing a diaper and looks insane. Wonderful , I think, just wonderful! There is so much life here. I email my editor asking if I can remain on St. Kitts and allow the Icon to sail off into the horizon without me. I have even priced a flight home at less than $300, and I have enough material from the first four days on the cruise to write the entire story. “It would be funny …” my editor replies. “Now get on the boat.”

As I slink back to the ship after my brief jailbreak, the locals stand under umbrellas to gaze at and photograph the boat that towers over their small capital city. The limousines of the prime minister and his lackeys are parked beside the gangway. St. Kitts, I’ve been told, is one of the few islands that would allow a ship of this size to dock.

“We hear about all the waterslides,” a sweet young server in one of the cafés told me. “We wish we could go on the ship, but we have to work.”

“I want to stay on your island,” I replied. “I love it here.”

But she didn’t understand how I could possibly mean that.

“WASHY, WASHY, so you don’t get stinky, stinky!” kids are singing outside the AquaDome, while their adult minders look on in disapproval, perhaps worried that Mr. Washy Washy is grooming them into a life of gayness. I heard a southern couple skip the buffet entirely out of fear of Mr. Washy Washy.

Meanwhile, I have found a new watering hole for myself, the Swim & Tonic, the biggest swim-up bar on any cruise ship in the world. Drinking next to full-size, nearly naked Americans takes away one’s own self-consciousness. The men have curvaceous mom bodies. The women are equally un-shy about their sprawling physiques.

Today I’ve befriended a bald man with many children who tells me that all of the little trinkets that Royal Caribbean has left us in our staterooms and suites are worth a fortune on eBay. “Eighty dollars for the water bottle, 60 for the lanyard,” the man says. “This is a cult.”

“Tell me about it,” I say. There is, however, a clientele for whom this cruise makes perfect sense. For a large middle-class family (he works in “supply chains”), seven days in a lower-tier cabin—which starts at $1,800 a person—allow the parents to drop off their children in Surfside, where I imagine many young Filipina crew members will take care of them, while the parents are free to get drunk at a swim-up bar and maybe even get intimate in their cabin. Cruise ships have become, for a certain kind of hardworking family, a form of subsidized child care.

There is another man I would like to befriend at the Swim & Tonic, a tall, bald fellow who is perpetually inebriated and who wears a necklace studded with little rubber duckies in sunglasses, which, I am told, is a sort of secret handshake for cruise aficionados. Tomorrow, I will spend more time with him, but first the ship docks at St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Charlotte Amalie, the capital, is more charming in name than in presence, but I still all but jump off the ship to score a juicy oxtail and plantains at the well-known Petite Pump Room, overlooking the harbor. From one of the highest points in the small city, the Icon of the Seas appears bigger than the surrounding hills.

I usually tan very evenly, but something about the discombobulation of life at sea makes me forget the regular application of sunscreen. As I walk down the streets of Charlotte Amalie in my fluorescent Icon of the Seas cap, an old Rastafarian stares me down. “Redneck,” he hisses.

“No,” I want to tell him, as I bring a hand up to my red neck, “that’s not who I am at all. On my island, Mannahatta, as Whitman would have it, I am an interesting person living within an engaging artistic milieu. I do not wish to use the Caribbean as a dumping ground for the cruise-ship industry. I love the work of Derek Walcott. You don’t understand. I am not a redneck. And if I am, they did this to me.” They meaning Royal Caribbean? Its passengers? The Rands?

“They did this to me!”

Back on the Icon, some older matrons are muttering about a run-in with passengers from the Celebrity cruise ship docked next to us, the Celebrity Apex. Although Celebrity Cruises is also owned by Royal Caribbean, I am made to understand that there is a deep fratricidal beef between passengers of the two lines. “We met a woman from the Apex,” one matron says, “and she says it was a small ship and there was nothing to do. Her face was as tight as a 19-year-old’s, she had so much surgery.” With those words, and beneath a cloudy sky, humidity shrouding our weathered faces and red necks, we set sail once again, hopefully in the direction of home.

THERE ARE BARELY 48 HOURS LEFT to the cruise, and the Icon of the Seas’ passengers are salty. They know how to work the elevators. They know the Washy Washy song by heart. They understand that the chicken gyro at “Feta Mediterranean,” in the AquaDome Market, is the least problematic form of chicken on the ship.

The passengers have shed their INAUGURAL CRUISE T-shirts and are now starting to evince political opinions. There are caps pledging to make America great again and T-shirts that celebrate words sometimes attributed to Patrick Henry: “The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people; it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government.” With their preponderance of FAMILY FLAG FAITH FRIENDS FIREARMS T-shirts, the tables by the crepe station sometimes resemble the Capitol Rotunda on January 6. The Real Anthony Fauci , by Robert F. Kennedy Jr., appears to be a popular form of literature, especially among young men with very complicated versions of the American flag on their T-shirts. Other opinions blend the personal and the political. “Someone needs to kill Washy guy, right?” a well-dressed man in the elevator tells me, his gray eyes radiating nothing. “Just beat him to death. Am I right?” I overhear the male member of a young couple whisper, “There goes that freak” as I saunter by in my white spa robe, and I decide to retire it for the rest of the cruise.

I visit the Royal Bling to see up close the $100,000 golden chalice that entitles you to free drinks on Royal Caribbean forever. The pleasant Serbian saleslady explains that the chalice is actually gold-plated and covered in white zirconia instead of diamonds, as it would otherwise cost $1 million. “If you already have everything,” she explains, “this is one more thing you can get.”

I believe that anyone who works for Royal Caribbean should be entitled to immediate American citizenship. They already speak English better than most of the passengers and, per the Serbian lady’s sales pitch above, better understand what America is as well. Crew members like my Panamanian cabin attendant seem to work 24 hours a day. A waiter from New Delhi tells me that his contract is six months and three weeks long. After a cruise ends, he says, “in a few hours, we start again for the next cruise.” At the end of the half a year at sea, he is allowed a two-to-three-month stay at home with his family. As of 2019, the median income for crew members was somewhere in the vicinity of $20,000, according to a major business publication. Royal Caribbean would not share the current median salary for its crew members, but I am certain that it amounts to a fraction of the cost of a Royal Bling gold-plated, zirconia-studded chalice.

And because most of the Icon’s hyper-sanitized spaces are just a frittata away from being a Delta lounge, one forgets that there are actual sailors on this ship, charged with the herculean task of docking it in port. “Having driven 100,000-ton aircraft carriers throughout my career,” retired Admiral James G. Stavridis, the former NATO Supreme Allied Commander Europe, writes to me, “I’m not sure I would even know where to begin with trying to control a sea monster like this one nearly three times the size.” (I first met Stavridis while touring Army bases in Germany more than a decade ago.)

Today, I decide to head to the hot tub near Swim & Tonic, where some of the ship’s drunkest reprobates seem to gather (the other tubs are filled with families and couples). The talk here, like everywhere else on the ship, concerns football, a sport about which I know nothing. It is apparent that four teams have recently competed in some kind of finals for the year, and that two of them will now face off in the championship. Often when people on the Icon speak, I will try to repeat the last thing they said with a laugh or a nod of disbelief. “Yes, 20-yard line! Ha!” “Oh my God, of course, scrimmage.”

Soon we are joined in the hot tub by the late-middle-age drunk guy with the duck necklace. He is wearing a bucket hat with the legend HAWKEYES , which, I soon gather, is yet another football team. “All right, who turned me in?” Duck Necklace says as he plops into the tub beside us. “I get a call in the morning,” he says. “It’s security. Can you come down to the dining room by 10 a.m.? You need to stay away from the members of this religious family.” Apparently, the gregarious Duck Necklace had photobombed the wrong people. There are several families who present as evangelical Christians or practicing Muslims on the ship. One man, evidently, was not happy that Duck Necklace had made contact with his relatives. “It’s because of religious stuff; he was offended. I put my arm around 20 people a day.”

Everyone laughs. “They asked me three times if I needed medication,” he says of the security people who apparently interrogated him in full view of others having breakfast.

Another hot-tub denizen suggests that he should have asked for fentanyl. After a few more drinks, Duck Necklace begins to muse about what it would be like to fall off the ship. “I’m 62 and I’m ready to go,” he says. “I just don’t want a shark to eat me. I’m a huge God guy. I’m a Bible guy. There’s some Mayan theory squaring science stuff with religion. There is so much more to life on Earth.” We all nod into our Red Stripes.

“I never get off the ship when we dock,” he says. He tells us he lost $6,000 in the casino the other day. Later, I look him up, and it appears that on land, he’s a financial adviser in a crisp gray suit, probably a pillar of his North Chicago community.

THE OCEAN IS TEEMING with fascinating life, but on the surface it has little to teach us. The waves come and go. The horizon remains ever far away.

I am constantly told by my fellow passengers that “everybody here has a story.” Yes, I want to reply, but everybody everywhere has a story. You, the reader of this essay, have a story, and yet you’re not inclined to jump on a cruise ship and, like Duck Necklace, tell your story to others at great pitch and volume. Maybe what they’re saying is that everybody on this ship wants to have a bigger, more coherent, more interesting story than the one they’ve been given. Maybe that’s why there’s so much signage on the doors around me attesting to marriages spent on the sea. Maybe that’s why the Royal Caribbean newsletter slipped under my door tells me that “this isn’t a vacation day spent—it’s bragging rights earned.” Maybe that’s why I’m so lonely.

Today is a big day for Icon passengers. Today the ship docks at Royal Caribbean’s own Bahamian island, the Perfect Day at CocoCay. (This appears to be the actual name of the island.) A comedian at the nightclub opined on what his perfect day at CocoCay would look like—receiving oral sex while learning that his ex-wife had been killed in a car crash (big laughter). But the reality of the island is far less humorous than that.

One of the ethnic tristate ladies in the infinity pool told me that she loved CocoCay because it had exactly the same things that could be found on the ship itself. This proves to be correct. It is like the Icon, but with sand. The same tired burgers, the same colorful tubes conveying children and water from Point A to B. The same swim-up bar at its Hideaway ($140 for admittance, no children allowed; Royal Caribbean must be printing money off its clientele). “There was almost a fight at The Wizard of Oz ,” I overhear an elderly woman tell her companion on a chaise lounge. Apparently one of the passengers began recording Royal Caribbean’s intellectual property and “three guys came after him.”

I walk down a pathway to the center of the island, where a sign reads DO NOT ENTER: YOU HAVE REACHED THE BOUNDARY OF ADVENTURE . I hear an animal scampering in the bushes. A Royal Caribbean worker in an enormous golf cart soon chases me down and takes me back to the Hideaway, where I run into Mrs. Rand in a bikini. She becomes livid telling me about an altercation she had the other day with a woman over a towel and a deck chair. We Suites have special towel privileges; we do not have to hand over our SeaPass Card to score a towel. But the Rands are not Suites. “People are so entitled here,” Mrs. Rand says. “It’s like the airport with all its classes.” “You see,” I want to say, “this is where your husband’s love of Ayn Rand runs into the cruelties and arbitrary indignities of unbridled capitalism.” Instead we make plans to meet for a final drink in the Schooner Bar tonight (the Rands will stand me up).

Back on the ship, I try to do laps, but the pool (the largest on any cruise ship, naturally) is fully trashed with the detritus of American life: candy wrappers, a slowly dissolving tortilla chip, napkins. I take an extra-long shower in my suite, then walk around the perimeter of the ship on a kind of exercise track, past all the alluring lifeboats in their yellow-and-white livery. Maybe there is a dystopian angle to the HBO series that I will surely end up pitching, one with shades of WALL-E or Snowpiercer . In a collapsed world, a Royal Caribbean–like cruise liner sails from port to port, collecting new shipmates and supplies in exchange for the precious energy it has on board. (The actual Icon features a new technology that converts passengers’ poop into enough energy to power the waterslides . In the series, this shitty technology would be greatly expanded.) A very young woman (18? 19?), smart and lonely, who has only known life on the ship, walks along the same track as I do now, contemplating jumping off into the surf left by its wake. I picture reusing Duck Necklace’s words in the opening shot of the pilot. The girl is walking around the track, her eyes on the horizon; maybe she’s highborn—a Suite—and we hear the voice-over: “I’m 19 and I’m ready to go. I just don’t want a shark to eat me.”

Before the cruise is finished, I talk to Mr. Washy Washy, or Nielbert of the Philippines. He is a sweet, gentle man, and I thank him for the earworm of a song he has given me and for keeping us safe from the dreaded norovirus. “This is very important to me, getting people to wash their hands,” he tells me in his burger getup. He has dreams, as an artist and a performer, but they are limited in scope. One day he wants to dress up as a piece of bacon for the morning shift.

THE MAIDEN VOYAGE OF THE TITANIC (the Icon of the Seas is five times as large as that doomed vessel) at least offered its passengers an exciting ending to their cruise, but when I wake up on the eighth day, all I see are the gray ghosts that populate Miami’s condo skyline. Throughout my voyage, my writer friends wrote in to commiserate with me. Sloane Crosley, who once covered a three-day spa mini-cruise for Vogue , tells me she felt “so very alone … I found it very untethering.” Gideon Lewis-Kraus writes in an Instagram comment: “When Gary is done I think it’s time this genre was taken out back and shot.” And he is right. To badly paraphrase Adorno: After this, no more cruise stories. It is unfair to put a thinking person on a cruise ship. Writers typically have difficult childhoods, and it is cruel to remind them of the inherent loneliness that drove them to writing in the first place. It is also unseemly to write about the kind of people who go on cruises. Our country does not provide the education and upbringing that allow its citizens an interior life. For the creative class to point fingers at the large, breasty gentlemen adrift in tortilla-chip-laden pools of water is to gather a sour harvest of low-hanging fruit.

A day or two before I got off the ship, I decided to make use of my balcony, which I had avoided because I thought the view would only depress me further. What I found shocked me. My suite did not look out on Central Park after all. This entire time, I had been living in the ship’s Disneyland, Surfside, the neighborhood full of screaming toddlers consuming milkshakes and candy. And as I leaned out over my balcony, I beheld a slight vista of the sea and surf that I thought I had been missing. It had been there all along. The sea was frothy and infinite and blue-green beneath the span of a seagull’s wing. And though it had been trod hard by the world’s largest cruise ship, it remained.

This article appears in the May 2024 print edition with the headline “A Meatball at Sea.” When you buy a book using a link on this page, we receive a commission. Thank you for supporting The Atlantic.

I sailed on Royal Caribbean's 2 largest cruise ships. They were shockingly similar for the $1,000 difference

Posted: April 3, 2024 | Last updated: April 3, 2024

• Royal Caribbean operates many of the cruise industry's biggest ships.
• Icon of the Seas  launched in January, dethroning its predecessor, Wonder of the Seas, as the world's largest.
• Here's how the two mega-ships compare in size, neighborhoods, amenities, dining, cabins, and costs.

Icon of the Seas, Royal Caribbean's new mega-cruise ship darling, was deemed a success before it was even built.

In January, the highly anticipated vessel — complete with more than 40 bars and restaurants, a six-slide waterpark, and a waterfall — set sail, dethroning its less than two-year-old precursor, the Wonder of the Seas , as the world's largest cruise ship.

Before its debut, Michael Bayley, the president and CEO of Royal Caribbean International, had already repeatedly called Icon its "best-selling product" yet. The company experienced its largest booking day ever when reservations opened for Icon of the Seas more than a year before its launch, it said

Despite all of this fanfare, you might be surprised by how similar it is to its predecessor.

I've sailed on both ships. Let's see how Icon and Wonder compare in six categories: size, neighborhoods, amenities, dining, cabins, and costs.

Both ships stunt the size of their competitors.

Wonder of the Seas debuted in 2022 as the then-world's largest cruise liner, measuring 235,600 gross-tons, 1,188 feet-long, and 18 decks-tall. The ship can accommodate up to 9,288 people, including 2,204 crew.

Icon of the Seas is, comparatively, 13,063 gross-tons heavier, eight feet longer, and two decks taller. It can sail up to 9,950 people, including 2,350 crew, although it's 52 feet less wide than its predecessor.

Both vessels feel more like amusement parks than traditional cruise ships.

Royal Caribbean invited me on complimentary, non-revenue sailings on both ships: two nights on Wonder in late 2022 and three nights on Icon in January.

I spent most of my time lost, overwhelmed, and exhausted.

It's no surprise both ships are operating weeklong itineraries this year. Any less, and you might not have time to experience all the activities and restaurants on your list.

Like other Royal Caribbean ships, Wonder and Icon have eight 'neighborhoods' that serve separate purposes.

The new ship shares three of Wonder of the Seas' neighborhoods : Central Park, Royal Promenade, and Suite.

Icon's other five — Thrill Island , Surfside, Hideaway, Chill Island, and AquaDome — are a first for the cruise line.

Many of the ships' amenities overlap, but in differing quantities.

Wonder has three waterslides. Icon has a six-slide waterpark complete with rafting and racing options.

Both have increasingly popular cruise amenities like decks-long dry slides, mini-golf courses, rock climbing walls, and playgrounds.

But instead of Wonder of the Seas' zipline , Icon of the Seas has Crown's Edge, a thrilling agility course with a small zipline that leaves travelers dangling 154 feet above the ocean.

Wonder’s Boardwalk neighborhood was my go-to.

Boardwalk delivered exactly as it had promised: an open-air space grounded by wood-planked floors, a hot dog stand, a sweets store, and kitschy, colorful decor.

Icon of the Seas' Surfside , designed for families with young children, felt like its closest dupe.

Both neighborhoods had a carousel, an outdoor playground, and family-friendly dining. But Surfside was more toddler-friendly, as suggested by the children's water play area and nighttime story readings.

On to entertainment: Both mega-ships have ice skating performances and exciting multi-disciplinary shows at the AquaTheater.

But travelers who enjoy musicals at sea will want to stick to Icon.

Unlike its predecessor, the new ship shows a rendition of Broadway hit "The Wizard of Oz" — Munchkins, a puppet Toto, and a 16-piece live band included.

The layout of Icon's amenities were better than its cousin.

Some of Wonder of the Seas' enticing outdoor amenities — like the surf simulator, zipline, and mini-golf course — are clustered on the deck above and away from the pools and water slides.

This layout might be difficult for parents with children who bounce from one activity to the next. Wouldn't it be easier to have all of these outdoor extras near each other, or at least on the same deck, for parental supervision purposes?

This is where Icon of the Seas excelled: All its exciting open-air activities were adjacent.

The rows of pools flowed perfectly into Thrill Island's waterpark , rock climbing walls, mini-golf course, and Crown's Edge.

The best part? The adult-only Hideaway — which flexes an infinity pool club with a DJ — is right behind Thrill Island, creating a clear separation between parents and their children without being too far from each other.

'Free' options like the buffet and build-your-own tacos and burritos bar are available on both ships.

But you won't find the larger vessel's five-stall food hall or mini-golf-adjacent finger food stand on Wonder.

As expected, Icon of the Seas has more dining options than its predecessor, although there are some overlaps.

Wonder of the Seas has 11 bars and 21 dining venues (9 complimentary and 12 upcharged).

Icon of the Seas has eight more bars, four more complimentary restaurants, and three more specialty dining choices.

Nor will you find the new ship’s plush $200-a-person Empire Supper Club on any other cruise liner.

The multi-course dinner, paired with cocktails and live music, stunts the cost of either vessel's other dinner options.

But if you love Johnny Rockets, you’ll be disappointed by Icon of the Seas.

Restaurants like the popular burger chain and Southern comfort-inspired Mason Jar are only on Wonder of the Seas. Fine by me: My fried chicken at Mason Jar was as dry as a desert.

The younger ship doesn't have Wonder's robot bartender-armed bar either. It does, however, have new watering holes with dueling pianos and live jazz.

Surprisingly, Wonder of the Seas has 65 more cabins than its new cousin.

But several of Icon's 28 stateroom categories are a first for the cruise line.

This includes the new family infinite balcony cabin, which has a small bunk bed nook for children.

Royal Caribbean assigned me an ocean-view balcony stateroom on both ships.

My Wonder of the Seas' cabin was 20 square-feet smaller than the one on Icon. But my bathroom on the latter was so tiny, I accidentally elbowed the walls at almost every turn.

Sailing on the world's largest cruise ship doesn't mean you'll have the world's largest cabin after all.

Wonder and Icon are both operating seven-night roundtrip itineraries from Florida to the Caribbean.

In 2024, Wonder of the Seas is scheduled for year-round sailings from Port Canaveral to the Caribbean and Royal Caribbean's private island, Perfect Day at CocoCay , starting at $700 per person.

Icon of the Seas is spending its first year in service operating nearly identical itineraries but from Miami instead. The cheapest 2024 option is $1,786 per person.

That's a difference of more than $125 per person per day.

"Bookings and pricing for Icon of the Seas can only be described as 'iconic,'" Naftali Holtz, the CFO of Royal Caribbean Group, told analysts in February.

Icon of the Seas’ name speaks for itself.

If your family is looking for a jam-packed kid-friendly cruise with enough amenities to stay entertained for a week, both ships are a great option.

But if you're a seasoned mega-ship-cruiser looking to experience something new, Icon of the Seas is your best bet.

They may be similar, but no other behemoth cruise liner has a waterpark for children and a pool club for adults just dozens of feet from each other.

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Cruise ship reality leaves viewers wanting to 'throw up and cry' after watching Drake Passage footage

A trip like no other.

Tom Earnshaw

A mum has revealed exactly what it's like to have dinner on one of the most notorious stretches of sea in the world - and it's not for the faint hearted.

Travelling on a cruise ship isn't for everyone, but they are holidays that thousands enjoy every single year, whether retired with your partner , solo, or as a family.

Some will even see it as their perfect career choice .

Most will set sail on a sunny voyage, heading to some of the best locations that money can take you to.

A trip around the Mediterranean or Caribbean sounds just perfect on this front.

But for some, the sun isn't everything.

And for those who decide they want to head towards the south pole, enter the Drake Passage .

The Drake Passage is a dangerous body of water between South America's Cape Horn, Chile, Argentina and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica, known for its rough waters and incredibly high waves.

It can make even the biggest cruise ships feel a little uneasy despite their gigantic size and heavy mass.

Passengers riding on cruise ships through the Drake Passage are told they can expect something called 'Drake Lake' or 'Drake Shake', with it among the choppiest waters in the entire world - if not the choppiest.

The reality of what it can do to even the biggest cruise ships in the world has been laid bare by TikTok user Karilyn, who posted under her account @nobackhome, where she documents travelling the world with her 13-year-old son .

Posting a video of them enjoying dinner while travelling through the Drake Passage, the reality of the size of the waves hit home.

Taking a window seat, it showed them appearing to float up in to the sky before their side of the ship came crashing down with 15-foot swells looks like they were going to engulf the cruise ship.

Those sat at the table with Karilyn couldn't contain their reaction to it, with most of them left opened-mouthed at the raw brutality of nature.

Reacting, one TikTok user wrote: "The way I would be running around screaming / crying / throwing up."

A second said: "I'm dizzy just looking at this."

A third added: "More than 20,000 people have drowned here. I wouldn't be laughing.

"The Drake Passage is the main reason for the Panama Canal."

A fourth posted: "I literally can't even watch this video without getting sea sick. I would DIE."

Topics:  Cruise Ship , Environment , Holiday , Travel , World News , TikTok

Tom joined LADbible in 2024, specialising in SEO and trending content. He moved to the company from Reach plc where he enjoyed spells as a content editor and senior reporter for one of the country's most-read local news brands, LancsLive. When he's not in work, Tom spends his adult life as a suffering Manchester United supporter after a childhood filled with trebles and Premier League titles. You can't have it all forever, I suppose.

@ TREarnshaw

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Hannah Waddingham Shares This 'Beautiful Honor' with Princess Diana, Kate Middleton: 'Pinch Me' (Exclusive)

The ‘Ted Lasso’ star opened up to PEOPLE about being named Godmother of Princess Cruises’ newest and biggest ship ever, the Sun Princess

Natalia Senanayake is an Editorial Assistant, Lifestyle at PEOPLE. She covers all things travel and home, from celebrities' luxury mansions to breaking travel news.

Mackenzie Schmidt is the Home and Travel Editor for PEOPLE. She's worked at PEOPLE for over five years as a writer and editor on the Lifestyle team.

Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic; James Morgan/Getty Images for Princess Cruises

Hannah Waddingham is following in the footsteps of a few famous royals in her newest role.

The Ted Lasso star has officially been named Godmother of Princess Cruise Line 's new Sun Princess ship following its maiden voyage in February, PEOPLE can exclusively reveal. As part of the cruising tradition , the actress will take on the responsibility of “christening” the new ship with luck as it embarks on its many voyages across the high seas. 

Waddingham tells PEOPLE exclusively how meaningful it is to be the ship’s Godmother, especially because of the women who also share the same title.

“I couldn’t believe I have been asked to be a ship Godmother, having grown up around boats all my life and my grandfather was in the Atlantic Convoy in the Navy,” says the actress, who next stars in The Fall Guy . “To be asked to be a part of this beautiful honor is a ‘pinch me’ moment.”

Frazer Harrison/Getty; Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty; Max Mumby/Indigo/Getty

She continues: “I am also honored to be in the esteemed company with previous Godparents to Princess Ships including Diana , Princess of Wales, Her Royal Highness The Princess of Wales Kate Middleton , Audrey Hepburn , Martha Stewart , and many others.” 

The Emmy-nominated actress adds that a big “privilege and pleasure” for her as Godmother is sending the 4,300 guests that the ship can hold “on their way safely with a big hug.” 

James Morgan/Getty Images for Princess Cruises

The Hannah Waddingham: Home for Christmas actress has recently been celebrating a raucous awards season with her Ted Lasso co-stars after the beloved show's third season concluded  last May. Asked which character would be the biggest cruiser in real life, Waddingham says Ted ( Jason Sudeikis ) is the perfect fit. 

“I think Ted would be the biggest cruiser,” she says, adding that “his positive, warm, loving, can-do attitude” would thrive on the getaway and calls out "trivia in Princess Live" and "Spellbound by Magic Castle" as experiences the ever-optimistic soccer coach would easily get on board with.

The next potential cruise lover that comes to mind for Waddingham is Keely, played by Juno Temple , thanks to her “positive and warm disposition,” she says. 

She adds that the stars of the hit Apple TV+ sports comedy would be the best company on any group vacation — especially on a cruise. 

“Anywhere the cast of Ted Lasso goes, we would have the best kind of party! We would all be down for a party on a beautiful ship. We love each other so much we would have fun being trapped together in an elevator,” she jokes.  

The Sun Princess officially set sail on its 10-day maiden voyage through the Mediterranean on Feb. 28. The massive ship, which weighs 177,882 tons, departed from Rome and made stops in Naples; Crete, Greece; Kusadasi, Turkey; Athens; Sicily; Mallorca; and Barcelona. 

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As the largest ship in Princess Cruises history, the Sun Princess is equipped with eye-catching features like the glass Dome “inspired by the terraces of Santorini,” a press release from the cruise line states. 

In the suspended Sphere Atrium, guests can enjoy indoor/outdoor living and soak in stunning views of the endless ocean. Additional breathtaking features include the three-story main dining room, two-level Lotus Spa and the casino, which is the cruise line’s largest to date.

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