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Free walking tour near La Paz

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La Paz walking tour: 10 things we learned

From a lawless harem in the middle of the city to affectionate zebras roaming around town, this La Paz walking tour is not your average day out

Few cities have a setting as dramatic as La Paz. At 3,650m above sea level, it is often called the the world’s highest capital even though this isn’t strictly true. The country’s official capital is Sucre which lies 690km to the southeast.

Nevertheless, La Paz has long been Bolivia’s political and commercial hub, and a customary stop for tourists. The sprawling city is cradled in a canyon, offering dramatic views of the Andes in the distance.

The curves of its valley are blanketed by the makeshift housing of the poor, stubbornly clinging to the steepest of inclines. It is in essence a city of two tales: on one hand, a modern metropolis with cable cars transporting its citizens to dizzying heights; on the other, a rickety old town wedded to beliefs verging on alchemy.

We were keen to get under its skin, so booked onto a La Paz walking tour. We were tempted to opt for a free tour, but heard good things about Banjo Tours’ La Paz Off The Beaten Track Walking Tour , so decided to book that instead. It turned out to be an excellent decision. T

he group size was far smaller than we were used to on free tours (which often swings upwards of 20). Our guide, Sergio, had a genuine love for his hometown and a deep knowledge that went far beyond the limits of the tour. Clearly, his enthusiasm that was catching as we went away thinking that La Paz was one of the most fascinating cities we had ever visited.

Here are just some of the reasons why.

Shoe shiners literally mask their shame

They look ominous at first but after hearing their story, you’ll feel a sense of poignancy when you come across La Paz’s shoe shiners or ‘lustrabotas’ as the locals call them. Many are runaways who live hand to mouth, shining shoes to make a living. They are so ashamed of what they do that they wear baseballs caps and balaclavas to hide their identities. While some are caught up in drugs and alcohol, many are simply trying to get by. Many La Paz citizens feel a certain responsibility toward the shoe shiners, giving them custom whenever possible and paying more than quoted to help them on their way.

San Pedro prison is basically just a lawless harem

Oy vey, where do we start? This prison – designed to house 250 prisoners but actually carrying 2,000 – is a lawless pit governed not by guards but by prisoners, usually those with the most money. Rich prisoners can bring in their own furniture and facilities and even their own guests, while the poor are left to sleep in the corridors and survive on a diet that barely provides sustenance. The notorious prison was once open to tours but its doors were closed after violence against visitors. That said, we hear that if you sit on a certain bench at a certain time on a certain day, a man will collect you for an unofficial tour of the prison. (We of course advise against this.)

It’s worth noting that San Pedro is the subject of Marching Powder , a fascinating book by Rusty Young about his time in the prison with drug trafficker Thomas McFadden. Brad Pitt’s production company has in part bought rights to the book, so it could be coming to our screens at some point soon.

The current president is Bolivia’s first ever indigenous one

Evo Morales is loved all over the land as he is the country’s first indigenous president. He is left-wing and has focused on reducing poverty while championing indigenous rights, environmentalism and anti-imperialism. He once quoted prior president Gualberto Villarroel López in a speech, saying: “I am not the enemy of the rich, but I am more a friend to the poor.”

A clock in the main square runs backwards to remind citizens to think differently

At first, we didn’t notice anything strange so Sergio asked us to take a second look. We soon realised that the clock on the National Congress building was running backwards. Sergio explained that this serves as a reminder to all citizens that they can question established norms and think creatively. Some dislike the clock as they say it’s a symbol of looking backwards but not everyone takes it so literally.

You may encounter an affectionate zebra or two

The driving in La Paz was once rather “overzealous” shall we say. Enter the zebras, an army of once at-risk youth who now don zebra costumes to educate drivers and pedestrians about road safety. Known for their exuberant, affectionate style, the city’s zebras are likely to rejoice when you wait for the green light, or clutch their heads in mock despair when you sprint across traffic instead. In recent years, the scope of the zebras’ work has expanded. They now run educational programs on recycling, water conservation and bullying too.

Dead animals are everywhere

Well, not everywhere but in lots of wheres. We popped to the ‘Witches Market’ in El Alto on the outskirts of La Paz where women hawk rows upon rows of dead animals to citizens who in turn offer them up to Pachamama (Mother Nature) in return for blessings. We asked Sergio how this sits with the country’s Catholic beliefs. He explained that while officially the church clearly doesn’t endorse these rituals, it also understands the importance of indigenous culture and beliefs.

Bolivia is desperate for sovereign access to the sea

Bolivia is one of South America’s two landlocked countries and also one of the most impoverished. Compare this to Chile, one of the continent’s most prosperous countries. This disparity is in part due to the 420 miles of Pacific Ocean coastline and 120,000 square kilometers of land Bolivia lost to Chile in The War of the Pacific in the 1880s. The former has been battling for access to the sea ever since, lodging a suit with the World Court as recently as May 4th this year. Sergio told us he prays that his country will one day gain access but doubts this will ever happen.

There’s a car casually wedged in a cliff…

A car once went over a cliff and got stuck. It has been there ever since. It slips a few metres every once in a while but remains in the cliff. Standard stuff really.

The poor are buried on top of each other

While this practice is prevalent across several cities on the continent, it’s the first time I came across it. La Paz Cemetery has coffins essentially piled on top of each other to accommodate the citizens whose families can’t afford proper graves.

Spaces are rented for up to 10 years after which the dead are disinterred and cremated. The ashes may then be stored in rented or purchased glass-fronted spaces in the cemetery walls where families affix plaques and mementoes.

You can eat at the world’s ‘highest curry house’

Sergio told us about Star of India, which claims to be the world’s highest curry house. It also claims to sell the world’s spiciest curry. If you finish, you get a t-shirt commemorating your achievement. Apparently, one crazy Turkish guy gobbled up the curry in 48 seconds while a more sedate Englishman kept at it for five hours.

Unfortunately, we didn’t think too highly of the food there (as a Bangladeshi, I have high standards when it comes to South-Asian food), but it was worth the visit just to say we’ve eaten at the world’s highest curry house.

La Paz walking tour: The essentials

What: La Paz Off The Beaten Track Walking Tour ($29pp), a 4.5-hour La Paz walking tour that takes in La Paz’s historic district, its colourful and bizarre markets, cable cars and panoramic viewpoints, not to mention a delicious mid-morning snack (the best empanadas we’ve had in South America!).

If you have time, book onto the full day tour which covers the above but also takes in Moon Valley, a lunar-like landscape that provide fantastic photo opportunities on a clear day ($45pp).

Where: La Paz, Bolivia. We stayed at the fantastic Residencial Latino . The street doesn’t look like much but the hostel was super clean, airy and bright. There were hot showers 24/7 and we even had a heater in the room. Wifi was standard for Bolivia (i.e. not super slow but not super fast) and there is a PC in the communal area which provides a much faster connection for free.

When: The period of May to October offers dry, sunny days with August being the most popular month. November to April is the rainy season. We visited in April and had a few showers but enjoyed it nonetheless!

How: Fly into El Alto International Airport (book via  skyscanner.net ) and catch a 30-minute taxi to Residencial Latino (B$60–70). If you’re taking a bus from Copacabana, you can catch a taxi around the bus station (really just a roadside stop) for the 10-minute ride. Book the tour directly with Banjo Tours .

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Free Walking Tour La Paz Bolivia | Tours on foot

La Paz is the largest and most important city in the Andes of Bolivia with a population of almost one million inhabitants. Unveil the political and cultural center on foot with Free Walking Tour La Paz or (Free Guided Tours on Foot). Your Local Guide will show you the most emblematic places in terms of history and tradition about La Paz and Bolivia. It will also make recommendations on activities that you should do.

1. San Pedro Prison

2. witch market, 3. rodriguez market, 4. san francisco church square and atrium, 5. murillo square, details of this free tour in la paz, what places will we see on this free tour of la paz.

Consider that it is no longer allowed to visit this place from the as it used to be three years ago, but your official tour guide will do his best to give relevant comments about the history of this Prison, which was originally built as a fortress in the colonial period. This prison is located in the urban center of La Paz city in Bolivia.

A 100% Indigenous, a traditional and very popular place where local people still practice ancestral traditions mainly from Aymara speaking people. The payment to Pachamanca(The Earth Goddess) is a living tradition in the Andes of South America especially in Peru and Bolivia, in this market, your Local Guide will tell you about what is offered to mother earth? What is the process? How long does it last? Why is it done?, he/she will also explain about the men wearing black hats carrying coconut bags, better known as “Yatiris” – in English Indigenous priests, join La Paz free walking tour to learn more about this city on foot.

This market is located in the historic center of La Paz, where your Guide will tell you about the living traditions that are still practiced in this place like “Truque” (in English Barter) and you can always haggle prices. Apart from products such as vegetables, fruits and food, you will also find souvenirs to buy for your relatives and friends back home.

The Basilica of San Francisco in the city of La Paz is a Catholic temple under the invocation of San Francisco de Asísi dating back to the colonial period in the fifteenth century. It is located in the center of the city, right next to the church there is a Plaza also known as San Francisco that is used to organizing many cultural and economic events.

This beautiful plaza is located in the center of the city of La Paz, it became the center of the political power of Bolivia after the transfer of the Executive branch to La Paz city in 1899 because of the Federal War nevertheless Sucre is still the headquarters of the Judiciary branch. At this plaza, you awesome free walking tour la Paz guide will comment on Bolivian history and on some current political and economic events happening in La Paz Bolivia.

FreeWalkingToursPeru LLC recommends the best company of free tours in La Paz RedCapWalkingTours , on their webpage you will find all the details of this Free tour in La Paz such as Schedules, Duration, Terms and how to book. Don´t forget to leave your donation at the end of the free tour .

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We've got the answers to all your questions about La Paz and Bolivia in general. If you don't find what you're looking for here, send us an email! We are happy to help you make the most of your trip to our amazing country!

Questions about red cap.

Yes!  We can book any trip/tour or otherwise amazing thing to do in Bolivia.  Let us know what you are interested in and we can help you build the dream Bolivia trip with your interests in mind.

You can only show up and pay on the day for the City Walking Tour, which leaves daily at 10am and 2pm from Plaza San Pedro.

All other tours must be booked online or in our office (940 Linares, upstairs).

City Walking Tour: 2.5 – 3 hours

Extended Tour: 3 – 4 hours (If you also join the Cholita Wrestling it adds about 3 hours to this)

Foodie Tour: 4 hours

Private ½ Day Tour: 4 hours

Private Full Day Tour: 6 hours

Cholita Wrestling: 2 hours

If you book multiple tours or are a big group, ask us for a discount!

The majority of our walkers prefer the tour in English so most of our tours are primarily in English, BUT, our guides are local guides who speak Spanish as such when there is a group of Spanish speakers we will divide the groups to make sure everyone understands and falls in love with our amazing city!

Unfortunately, due to local regulations, we cannot offer free tours in the city.  As such we have made the tours as inexpensive as possible so that everyone, no matter their budget, can enjoy a locally guided tour of this incredible city.  And for this reason we also suggest you tip your guide as they work hard for you!

YES! We go rain, shine, hell or high water.

If for some reason you can’t join us, let us know at least 24 hours in advance and we will happily put you on another day.  If you don’t show up and we don’t know where you are….we have costs to cover, and as such can’t give you your green guys back. Also, you MUST enjoy your time with Red C&P.  If you don’t send us an email to let us know why not.  We love improving the tours we offer.  

QUESTIONS ABOUT LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

Mountain Biking – The world famous Death Road is a must do!  64km of amazing descent from the top of the mountains down to the high jungle.  It is VERY IMPORTANT that you do this trip with a reputable operator.  There are also a number of other amazing riding options in the beautiful Bolivian Andes.  Contact us and we can help you book!

Urban Rush – A definite must do for anyone looking for a little adrenaline!  Rappel face-first out of one of La Paz’s highest buildings dressed as Spiderman.  Yeah, it’s as cool as it sounds.  They are open every day from 12-6pm. 

Scree Rush – If you love snowboarding then this you must try!  Scree is the Andes version of sand and it is amazing fun on a snowboard, not to mention the views….this is the Andes!  Contact us for more info or to book!

Tiwanaku – These incredible ruins pre date the Incas and tell an amazing story of the people who built them, only 1.5 hours from the city.

Cholita Wrestling – Every Thursday night and Sunday afternoon, women in traditional garb enter the ring and put on quite an amazing high flying spectacle.   You can book on our website by clicking this.

Trekking/Climbing – The mountains surrounding la paz are a climbers/hikers dream.  The most popular route is Huayna Potosi where you can climb over 6000m in just 1 or 2 days! 

One of the best things about La Paz is the vast array of restaurants, street food, and markets – there is truly something for any type or style of food you are looking for here is some of our favorites (there are many more!) and if you have suggestions let us know!

Gustu – started by world renowned chef, Claus Meyer, this chic restaurant offers incredible dishes featuring all local ingredients.  A real treat and a bargain for the luxury it is.

Ali Pacha – In the center of town this small restaurant invites you to enjoy fine dining without breaking the bank.  A vegetarian and vegan restaurant where you meat eaters won’t think you are missing anything!

Ludo’s – A small restaurant with a big bang on the plate.  Don’t just order a main, you’ll want an appetizer as well.

Pronto – The best Italian in La Paz.

Rendezvous – One of our favorite spots for dinner.  This family run restaurant features great dishes from steak and pasta to local dishes in a very nice atmosphere. It is a great deal for the quality.

4 corners – These restaurants all on 4 corners offer a wide array of selection.  Mexican, BBQ, Dutch, Italian and more.

Vitapho – Great for lunch if you want Asian dishes.

Namaste – Good vegetarian food in the center.

Sabor Cubana – Good hearty Cuban.  Best for lunch.  Center of touristic area.

Mercado Lanza – This is your one stop shop for everything cheap and good.  From fruit salads and other snacks to full almuerzos, this is where locals go for a cheap meal.  Do make sure the place you go looks clean.

• Papas Relleno
• Canela Ice Cream
• Sandwich de Chola
• Writer’s Café
• Café Alexanders
• Antigua Miami

Nearly everyone feels the altitude when they first arrive.  Usually the first day or 2 you may have a headache, feel groggy or heavy and then you feel normal….just don’t run up the hills!  You must remain well hydrated and if you feel very bad, your lips or under your fingernails are purple you need oxygen and should visit a hospital.