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This magical meeting place straddling two continents has more top-notch attractions than it has minarets (and that's a lot).

Best Time to Visit

Best things to do, leave the planning to a local expert.

Experience the real Istanbul. Let a local expert handle the planning for you.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque

Sultanahmet

Right in the heart of İstanbul’s historic center, this sacred Byzantine building remains an important symbol of power.

Topkapı Palace

Topkapı is the subject of more colourful stories than most of the world's museums put together. Libidinous sultans, ambitious courtiers, beautiful…

Kariye Mosque

İstanbul has more than its fair share of Byzantine monuments, but few are as drop-dead gorgeous as this mosaic- and fresco-laden church. Nestled in the…

Süleymaniye Mosque

The Süleymaniye crowns one of İstanbul's seven hills and dominates the Golden Horn, providing a landmark for the entire city. Though it's not the largest…

Basilica Cistern

This subterranean structure was commissioned by Emperor Justinian and built in 532. The largest surviving Byzantine cistern in İstanbul, it was…

Blue Mosque

İstanbul's most photogenic building was the grand project of Sultan Ahmet I (r 1603–17), whose tomb is located on the north side of the site facing…

Grand Bazaar

The colourful and chaotic Grand Bazaar is the heart of İstanbul's Old City and has been so for centuries. Starting as a small vaulted bedesten (warehouse)…

Pera Museum

There's plenty to see at this impressive museum, but its major draw is undoubtedly the 2nd-floor exhibition of paintings featuring Turkish Orientalist…

Top picks from our travel experts

14 must-do things on your trip to istanbul.

Pierre Loti Café

Many visitors head to this hilltop cafe after visiting the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. Named for the famous French novelist who is said to have come here for…

İstanbul Modern

This lavishly funded and innovative museum has an extensive collection of Turkish art and also stages a constantly changing and uniformly excellent…

SALT Beyoğlu

With a brief to explore critical and timely issues in visual and material culture, the İstiklal branch of the SALT cultural centre is one of the city's…

Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı

It took seven years to develop a conservation plan for this 1580 Mimar Sinan–designed building and complete the meticulous restoration. Fortunately, the…

Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı

This meticulously restored twin hamam dating to 1556 offers the most luxurious traditional bath experience in the Old City. Designed by Mimar Sinan, it…

Dolmabahçe Palace

The Bosphorus Suburbs

These days it’s fashionable for architects and critics influenced by the less-is-more aesthetic of Bauhaus masters to sneer at buildings such as…

Beşiktaş Çarşı

The beating heart of Beşiktaş, this bustling backstreet area packed with shops, restaurants, bars, cafes – and the neighbourhood’s youthful crowd – is…

Barış Manço House

One of the pioneering musicians who mixed rock sounds with traditional Turkish folk music to establish the Anatolian rock genre in the 1960s and 1970s,…

İstiklal Caddesi

Once called the Grand Rue de Pera but renamed İstiklal (Independence) in the early years of the Republic, Beyoğlu's premier boulevard is a perfect…

Kadıköy Produce Market

An aromatic, colourful and alluring showcase of the best fresh produce in the city, the Kadıköy Pazarı is foodie central for locals and is becoming an…

Meshur Dondurmacı Ali Usta

Weekend and summer-night saunters down Moda Caddesi wouldn't be the same without a cone of the dondurma (ice cream) produced by the five brothers who…

Yapı Kredi Kültür Sanat

Towering over Galatasaray Sq, this sleek cultural centre affiliated with a major Turkish bank stages art exhibitions, hosts classical-music concerts, and…

Spice Bazaar

Vividly coloured spices are displayed alongside jewel-like lokum (Turkish delight) at this Ottoman-era marketplace, providing eye candy for the thousands…

The 25 best things to do in Istanbul that don't cost a thing

Hünkâr Kasrı

Built over a grand archway attached to the New Mosque, this small kasrı (pavilion) or mahfili (loge) dates from the same period and functioned as a…

Aqueduct of Valens

Rising majestically over the traffic on busy Atatürk Bulvarı, this limestone aqueduct is one of the city's most distinctive landmarks. Commissioned by…

Nişantaşi, Bomonti & Harbiye

On a sunny weekend afternoon, you’ll find this slender green oasis in central İstanbul full of picnicking families, canoodling couples and slackline…

The Byzantine emperors loved nothing more than an afternoon at the chariot races, and this rectangular arena alongside Sultanahmet Park was their venue of…

Turkish Hamam Culture Museum

Constructed by order of the mother of Selim I and one of the wives of Beyazıt II, this now-decommissioned early-16th-century hamam is one of the largest…

SALT Galata

The descriptor 'cultural centre' is used a lot in İstanbul, but is often a misnomer. Here at SALT Galata it really does apply. Housed in a magnificent…

İstanbul Arastırmaları Enstitüsü

Associated with the nearby Pera Museum, this institution incorporates a publicly accessible research library focusing on the cultural and social history…

Beyazıt State Library

Occupying the former imaret (soup kitchen) and kervansaray (caravanserai) of the Beyazıt Mosque's külliye, this library has recently been the subject of a…

The only remaining built section of the Hippodrome hints at how monumental the arena was. The level of galleries that once topped this section was damaged…

Gülhane Park

Gülhane Park was once part of the grounds of Topkapı Palace, accessible only to the royal court. These days crowds of locals come here to picnic under the…

Feriköy Organic Market

Established in 2006 as Turkey’s first ‘100% ecological bazaar’, this bustling Saturday market is still going strong, with hundreds of colourful stalls…

Church of St Stephen of the Bulgars

Known as the 'Iron Church', this distinctive Gothic Revival–style building on the Golden Horn has an extremely beautiful interior, with its gilded iron…

Koç University Research Centre for Anatolian Civilizations

With a wealth of scholarly knowledge and archival photos to draw on, the exhibitions regularly staged on the ground floor of this university-affiliated…

Occupying a former tobacco warehouse, this alternative space is operated by Anadolu Kültür (www.anadolukultur.org), a not-for-profit organisation that…

Eyüp Sultan Mosque

This important complex marks the supposed burial place of Ebu Eyüp el-Ensari, a friend of the Prophet who fell in battle outside the walls of…

Rüstem Paşa Mosque

Nestled in the middle of the busy Tahtakale shopping district, this diminutive mosque is a gem. Dating from 1560, it was designed by Sinan for Rüstem Paşa…

Aşiyan Museum

It’s quite a hike up to this small house-museum, named after the Turkish word for ‘bird’s nest’, but the stunning Bosphorus views may well inspire you to…

Women's Bazaar

Though it's a wonderful spot to observe local life, the vibrant Women's Bazaar isn't for the faint-hearted. Freshly slaughtered sheep carcasses swing in…

Akbank Art Centre

Turkey's big banks and philanthropic trusts vie to be seen as the greatest sponsor of the arts. İstiklal is a showcase for their generosity, and with this…

Yıldız Park

This large and leafy retreat is alive with birds, picnicking families and young couples strolling hand in hand. The best time to visit is in April, when…

Wednesday Market

This busy weekly market sells food, clothing and household goods. It's held in the streets behind and to the north of Fatih Mosque.

Planning Tools

Expert guidance to help you plan your trip.

Best Neighborhoods

Explore the distinct neighborhoods of Istanbul with this guide to what to expect in each one.

Take a break from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul with a day trip to nearby beaches, forests and sleepy towns.

Transportation

Istanbul's scale and traffic jams can be daunting to travelers but the city's compact center and transport options make it a breeze if you're in the know.

Free Things to Do

From mosques and markets to art galleries and monuments, some of Istanbul's best sites don't cost a thing.

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NORDIC TRAVEL ISTANBUL

Osmaniye Mahallesi, Kirecocagiyolu Sokak, No:9, Ilker Sitesi, A-Blok, Daire:23, Bakirkoy - Istanbul - Turkey

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Wander-Lush

42 Things to Know Before You Visit Istanbul: Helpful Istanbul Travel Tips

Istanbul is a magnificent beast.

Thirty-nine districts, 15 million people, and 1700-plus years of history – it’s still difficult for me to wrap my head around a city of this scale.

I never know where to begin with Istanbul. And yet every time I arrive, I somehow feel instantly at ease. Turkey’s biggest metropolis has a way of encircling you, sweeping you up and taking you along for the ride. For me, it’s one of those places where it’s best to relinquish expectations and anxieties and just go with the flow.

That’s easier said than done, and there are countless tidbits I wish I had known before I visited Istanbul for the first time back in 2019. On my recent re-visit, there were many more things I noticed for the first time.

I struggled to whittle this list down to a digestible size – not because travelling in Istanbul is particularly complicated or difficult, but because when you’re dealing with a city of such incredible breadth and depth, there’s just so much to talk about.

Here are 42 Istanbul tips that I think every traveller will benefit from , including cultural quirks, itinerary planning tips, logistics hints, and common faux pas.

• Also read: The perfect itinerary for 4 days in Istanbul

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Istanbul quick links

• Istanbul airport transfer: Private transfer from Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen (from $27)
• Where to stay in Istanbul: Hostel Le Banc (budget); 38 Hotel (mid-range); Hotel Empress Zoe (boutique); Ecole St. Pierre Hotel (luxury)
• Istanbul Official E-Pass: Pre-purchase online here
• Skip the line: Blue Mosque & Hagia Sophia Small-Group Tour (from $40)
• Best Istanbul food tour: Taste of 2 Continents (from $100)
• Top-rated Istanbul city tour: Best of Istanbul in 1 Day (from $60)
• Turkey car hire: Find a low-cost rental on Local Rent (from 28€/day)

Essential Istanbul travel tips

Starting with the basics, here are answers to some of the burning questions I had before my first visit to Turkey (Türkiye) and Istanbul.

1. Avoid visiting in summer

Never underestimate Istanbul’s magnetism. The city pulled in more than 14 million tourists in 2019 (including me), and on my most recent trip in 2022, it felt just as crowded as it had been three years earlier.

I’m willing to bet that most people visit Istanbul during the summer months – June, July and August. This feels a bit hypocritical because I myself have visited Istanbul twice during summer – but because I did, I know what peak season is like.

Istanbul’s climate is quite mild relative to other cities in the region. Temperatures might not go too far beyond 30 degrees Celsius in the shade, but the sun is scorching hot, and it’s very dry.

Aside from the oppressive heat, there are the summer swarms to contend with. (You haven’t really experienced a queue until you’ve stood in line for the Hagia Sophia on an August afternoon.) There are crushing crowds at every landmark during summer, and that gets old pretty quickly. On top of that, accommodation prices are noticeably higher and it can be challenging to get a reservation.

The best time to visit Istanbul is during shoulder season, spring (April to early June) or autumn (mid-September to the start of November). For something different, consider visiting Turkey in winter , when snow covers Istanbul and the city’s charm-o-metre is off the charts.

Take note of the dates for the Holy Month of Ramadan (usually around March-April-May, but it changes every year), which influences the way the city operates.

2. You need at least three days to do Istanbul justice

However many days you give yourself in Istanbul, it will never be enough. You will always feel like you short-changed yourself – there’s always one more neighbourhood to explore, one more ferry trip to take, one more museum to visit, one more restaurant to try…

Three days is the bare minimum for a first-time visitor, but you could easily stay for a week or more.

I recently spent 10 days in Istanbul and found it was a good amount of time to see the city at a relaxed pace. I stayed in the centre for that entire time, though I did have a few ‘down’ days to work. There are dozens of day trip opportunities to break things up if the city gets to be too much.

One of the highlights of Istanbul is the food, so you’d do well to measure the duration of your stay in meals eaten rather than nights slept! Six square meals (and a couple of ‘spread breakfasts’) is ideal for indulging in the best of Istanbul’s food scene .

Plan your time with my 4-day Istanbul itinerary , which covers the must-sees and a few local gems.

3. Save time (and maybe money) by applying for an e-visa

Most nationalities require a tourist visa to enter Türkiye. The country’s e-visa scheme, which launched in 2013, is available to citizens of 40+ countries, including the States, Australia and Canada. (EU citizens do not need a visa.) A standard multiple-entry visa is valid for a stay of up to 90 days with 180 days validity from the date of issue.

Visa on arrival (VOA) is also available, but if you’re flying in, it requires queueing at the airport – and because of the high volume of flights arriving at IST particularly, it can be a long wait. For some nationalities, it’s also more expensive – 10 USD dearer on average compared to the e-visa according to the official fees (though for US passport holders, VOA is cheaper).

Applying for a Turkish e-visa requires completing a simple online form. The website has English-language support and international card payment, but be warned that sometimes it’s a bit glitchy. Both times I’ve applied, my visa has landed in my inbox almost instantly (within the hour). Be sure to print off the A4 piece of paper to show at immigration.

There are copycat sites out there – the official e-visa portal is located here .

I have never been asked for proof of onward travel or a hotel reservation when entering Turkey. If you want one or both for peace of mind without making an actual booking, then I suggest using OneWayFly .

4. Travel insurance is a must

Travel insurance is mandatory for all foreign visitors to Turkey. Again, you might not be asked to show proof of insurance if you’re travelling on an e-visa (I haven’t), but rules are rules nonetheless.

Istanbul is generally regarded as a safe city, but pickpocketing and crime do occur. More importantly, local health care can be expensive, so it pays to be covered in case of accident or unexpected illness.

For single-policy or annual trip insurance, I recommend HeyMondo. Get 5% off your policy when you sign up using this link .

Read up on these Istanbul safety tips before you go.

5. Use the Havabus (Havaist) shuttle to travel to/from the airport

Update: Since publishing this guide, both Istanbul airports now have an underground metro service. I would definitely look into this option – avoiding traffic could be a real time-saver. Here are more details .

Havabus is a terrific service for travelling between Istanbul’s airports (yes, there is more than one – see the next point) and the downtown area. Shuttles operate 24/7, with departures in both directions every 30-60 minutes.

Tip: At Sabiha Gokcen airport, the shuttle is called Havabus and at Istanbul Airport, it’s called Havaist. I have used both – they operate in much the same way, but they have separate websites for checking the schedule ( here for Havabus and here for Havaist).

When you land in Istanbul, look for the airport bus signage. At Sabiha Gokcen, the bus stand is located on the other side of the car park directly in front of the arrivals terminal. Tickets are purchased using cash on the bus and cost 37.50 TRY (around 2 USD) per person to go to Taksim.

If you prefer a private transfer, airport cars are very well priced (from $27 to/from either airport). Pre-book a door-to-door airport transfer online here .

Eventually the Istanbul metro will extend to IST Airport, but the line has not been completed yet.

6. There are multiple airports in Istanbul – don’t front up at the wrong one!

Istanbul Airport (IST) is the city’s largest and busiest international airport. Located on the European side in Arnavutkoy, 40km / 45 minutes’ drive from Taksim Square, it is sometimes referred to as ‘Istanbul Grand Airport’ or IGA. If you’re flying with Turkish Airlines or from Europe, there’s a high chance you will be landing at IST.

A second airport, Sabiha Gokcen International Airport (SAW), receives flights from the Middle East (Emirates, Qatar ) as well as Turkey’s own Pegasus Airlines. It is located on the Asian side, 40km / 60 minutes’ drive from Taksim Square.

A third airport, Ataturk Airport, closed in 2019.

The two airports are 80km apart and it takes at least 75-90 minutes to travel between them. There are shuttle buses, but if you show up at the wrong one for your flight, there’s a good chance you’ll be left high and dry. Triple-check your reservation and make sure you show up at the correct airport.

We got caught out with this on our first trip and rolled up at the wrong airport for our flight back to Australia. Luckily we had come a day early with the intention of staying the night at the airport hotel, so we still made our flight.

You can use Havabus/Havaist to get back to the airport from the city, too. Buses depart from Taksim Square. Take the metro to Taksim and follow the exit towards Taksim Gezi Park. From there, the station is a short walk (you will see the coaches waiting and two ticket booths on the footpath).

Buses to both airports depart from the same area, so again, triple-check you’re hopping on the right one!

7. Pre-book your accommodation

Hotel platform Booking.com doesn’t work in Turkey, so if this is your preferred way to find accommodation, you’ll need to do your browsing and booking before you arrive. (This can be overcome by using a VPN of course.)

Pre-booking is essential for peak-period travel as properties do fill up and prices can skyrocket for last-minute reservations.

I normally use Airbnb in Istanbul for the simple reason that I prefer to stay in local neighbourhoods. Sisli is my district of choice: It has great access to public transport, fantastic local restaurants, and a more relaxed vibe.

8. Card is widely accepted, but it helps to carry cash

Ninety-nine percent of venues and shops in Istanbul accept credit/debit cards, including Visa and Mastercard, as well as contactless pay. For small markets and convenience stores, local restaurants, bars and taxis – and when dipping into the wonderful world of Istanbul street food – you’ll need cash.

Many smaller shops in Turkey have a primary limit set on card purchases, meaning you need to meet a certain threshold if you want to pay with a card. In these instances, cash is necessary. Small bills also come in handy for tipping (more on that later).

I suggest withdrawing cash when you first arrive and reserving it for smaller purchases and tips. Check out my Istanbul Travel Budget to learn more about budgeting for your trip and the cost of common items and services.

9. Most ATMs in Turkey charge a fee

ATMs are ubiquitous in Istanbul and most of the time, you’ll see half a dozen different cash machines clustered together. Majority charge a withdrawal fee – up to 5% for some banks – and have a transaction limit of between 3000-5000 TRY.

The only no-fee ATM we could find was Ziraat Bank. It’s red with a distinctive wheatear logo. We also used HalkBank, which did not charge us a withdrawal fee, but did hit us with a 13 TRY fee on Wise.

Banks change their fee structure regularly, so you might need to experiment with a few different machines. If the bank does charge a fee – either a flat fee or a percentage – this should always be displayed on the screen before you finalise the transaction.

On our first trip to Turkey, we had issues with our Australian bank cards not being accepted. This time around, I used my Wise card without any issues. I found the best method for withdrawing cash was to exchange stored currency to Turkish lira within the Wise app, then withdraw lira from the ATM.

Wise is great for international travel and offers very competitive exchange rates – if you don’t yet have an account, you can sign up here .

10. Buying a SIM card in Istanbul is easy, but your options are limited

Open WIFI is not readily accessible in Istanbul, which makes buying a local SIM card more or less a necessity.

If you’re not a Turkish citizen and you don’t hold a residency permit, you’ll find you have limited options when it comes to buying a SIM. Low-cost packages are not available to foreigners and most telcos only offer one standard tourist package.

After doing a bit of research, we settled on a Vodafone SIM. Vodafone only has one option for tourists, which includes 20GB of data, calls and texts, and unlimited access to Whatsapp. We paid 350 TRY (around 19 USD).

The process of buying a SIM is very straightforward and only took us about 15 minutes. You need a hard copy of your passport for registration, so make sure you’re carrying it with you. The tourist SIM automatically expires after 60 days.

11. The public transport system is phenomenal

If you’re considering hiring a car in Turkey to continue your travels beyond the city, make sure you pick it up on the outskirts of the city (possible when using a company such as Local Rent ). The traffic is maniacal and I would not recommend driving in the city centre.

There’s no reason to drive a car in Istanbul, anyway: The public transport system is affordable, easy to use and reliable. Between the metro, trams, buses, ferries, and my personal favourite, dolmus vans, you can get anywhere you need to go with ease. Google Maps works well for planning your route.

Dolmus minivans – Turkey’s answer to a marshrutka – are a fun experience. The name literally means ‘stuffed’ because passengers are squeezed in like sardines. Keep in mind that the entire transport network is very busy and squishy during peak hour, especially in the morning between about 8-9.30am.

When boarding a bus in Istanbul, enter through the front door and tap your IstanbulKart on the electronic reader. If the bus is very full, you can board through the back doors and pass your card down the line for someone at the front to swipe.

12. You need an IstanbulKart transport pass

On our first trip to Istanbul, we walked a lot and relied on buying single-journey metro tickets for longer trips. This time around, we re-learned that only certain ticket machines inside the metro dispense single tickets – and usually they are the ones with an obnoxiously long line of people.

An IstanbulKart is an essential purchase if you plan to use public transport. There are several different cards available – all are valid for the metro, buses, trams and ferries. The so-called Anonymous IstanbulKart is recommended for tourists and is sold at kiosks and newsstands and inside metro stations for 50 TRY (non-refundable). You can use one card for multiple people (up to five people).

A single IstanbulKart fare costs 7.67 TRY. Compared to the 15 TRY for a single-journey ticket, you’ll end up saving almost 50% on every trip.

Note that metrobus fares vary according to the number of stops travelled, but metro fares are flat. Transfers are charged at 5.49 TRY for the first transfer and 4.17 TRY for the second leg.

Find more information about the public transport system here .

13. Use an app for taxis in Istanbul

Istanbul’s cab system is similarly well organised, with three types of taxis at different price points. Yellow taxis are standard and have the lowest fares (6.3 TL/km plus a switch-on fee of 9.8 TL). Turquoise taxis are a premium service and cost 20% more, while black taxis (always luxury vehicles) are twice as expensive as yellow taxis.

Taxis are metered, so it’s generally considered safe for a tourist to hail a cab on the street. However, scams do happen , which is one of the reasons most people (including many locals) prefer to use an app.

After numerous legal battles, Uber re-launched in Turkey in 2021. We used it on several occasions and found the service to be good – short wait times, friendly drivers, and competitive fares (we always paid in cash rather than hooking up our credit card – make sure you are carrying small bills).

Uber alternatives include BiTaksi and Itaksi. The former has POS contactless payment, which is great for paying by card.

14. Tipping is standard

Tipping is customary in Turkey, with 10% being the standard mark for restaurants and bars. For taxi drivers, it’s normal to round up to the nearest lira when paying in cash.

Of course you should only tip if you’re satisfied with the service. We found the quality of customer service in Istanbul to be pretty good across the board, with the exception of one chain cafe where we had a terrible experience.

Tipping is slightly higher for other service providers: 10-20% goes to your tellak or natir at the Turkish baths, and to your hairdresser or barber.

15. Can you drink the tap water in Istanbul?

This is a rhetorical question, because I’m still not sure what the correct answer is! Locals will warn you off tap water while at the same time, the government is running campaigns to encourage more people to drink from the faucet.

From what I understand, Istanbul tap water was undrinkable a decade ago. Infrastructure improvements (and the addition of chlorine to the water stream) have made tap water safe to drink, but many people still prefer to drink bottled water.

If the building you’re staying in has old, rusty pipes, it might be best to give tap water a wide berth. Try a small quantity and see how it sits with you.

16. Don’t flush your loo paper

Istanbul’s pipes are a bit sensitive, thus most restaurants, cafes and hotels request you place toilet tissue in a bin rather than flushing it down the loo. If this is the case, you’ll likely see a sign and a strategically placed wastepaper bin. If in doubt, don’t flush it.

17. If you need a bathroom, head to the nearest mosque

After chasing after non-existent bathrooms in malls and metro stations, I finally cottoned onto this little Istanbul tip: There are public toilets attached to most mosques and in my experience, they are almost always cleaner than public bathrooms elsewhere. Pan toilets are common. Men’s rooms are marked with bay , and women’s with bayan .

Some bathrooms are free to use, while others charge a small (1-2 TRY) fee. Another good reason to carry some small bills or coins with you.

18. Sip ayran to keep your tummy happy

Ayran is a savoury yogurt drink that has its roots in Turkey, but is popular around the region (I developed my ayran addiction several years ago in Bosnia and Herzegovina and have been sipping it ever since). It’s not too creamy, not too watery, and has just a hint of salty effervescence.

Because it’s yogurt, it’s full of good bacteria that do wonders to keep your gut in balance. Just as you might drink lassis in India, you can drink ayran in Istanbul to help ward off any potential food or water-related bugs.

Food poisoning definitely does occur in Istanbul, so watch what you eat and try to consume street food earlier in the day when it’s fresher (especially fish wraps and seafood).

People drink ayran with breakfast, lunch or dinner, and it is served at virtually every restaurant in Istanbul – either in little plastic tubs or from a fountain. Always go for the fresh option when it’s available: It’s light and aerated and extra delicious, presented with a big scoop of yogurty foam on top.

19. Drinking is common, but alcohol is not ubiquitous

The most popular alcoholic drinks in Istanbul are beer, wine and raki , a powerful spirit distilled from grapes or other fruits. Not all restaurants serve alcohol, however, and when you make your way over to the Asian side of Istanbul (which is noticeably more conservative), you’ll find that only a handful of establishments are licensed.

If you prefer to BYO, tekels are Istanbul’s answer to bottle shops. They normally sell a selection of local bottled beers and Turkish wines along with soft drinks, snack foods and cigarettes. It’s illegal to sell alcohol within 100 metres of a mosque or a school, so you won’t find any tekels in some neighbourhoods.

Sales are restricted to certain times of day – you cannot purchase drinks from a bottle shop between 10am and 6am (there are no restrictions on restaurants and bars, though). Alcohol is served as normal during Ramadan.

Excessive drinking is taboo in Turkish culture. Raki, the national drink, is a social beverage consumed slowly with food. It has aniseed notes and is sometimes served over water and ice, which gives it a milky colour.

If you want to try raki, head to a meyhane (meze bar), where alcohol is served with small places of food (also see point #26 on this list). You can order a small 350 mL bottle or a shot (~40 mL). Start slow – some rakis are 80-90 proof.

20. English is widely spoken (sort of)

The number of Turkish people who speak English is somewhere between 15-20% . Of course the rate is much higher in Istanbul, but still, English is not as widespread as you might imagine.

We found a bit of a paradox here: In big shops and phone stores, very little English was spoken, while we encountered staff who spoke perfect English in small restaurants and humble bakeries.

The bottom line is that it’s a bit of a mixed bag, so be prepared to sign and mime your way through some situations. Of course it helps to have some simple Turkish under your belt – knowing a few basic phrases can help to smooth things over.

Istanbul quirks to know before you go

Here are a few unusual quirks that tripped us up in Istanbul.

21. Pharmacies are hard to find

Turkey differentiates between ‘pharmacies’ and ‘cosmetic stores’ in a way that I’ve not noticed in any other country. The latter sells beauty and health products, but there is no pharmacist on staff and nowhere to buy over-the-counter medications or prescription meds.

Chains such as Watsons, Rossmann and Gratis are classified as ‘cosmetics stores’. If you need anything more serious than paracetamol or a revitalising face mask, you need a pharmacy or eczane .

Eczanesi are more difficult to come by. That’s because there are no chain pharmacies in Turkey. All pharmacies are small and owner-operated by a pharmacist – essentially mom-and-pop shops. You won’t find them in malls, only on the streets. Look for the ‘eczanesi’ sign in the window, and when using Google Maps, search for ‘eczane’ rather than ‘pharmacy’.

Pharmacies are worth hunting down if you need them: Many medicines are freely available in Turkey without a prescription, and prices are almost always cheaper than elsewhere in Europe. You do have to ask around, though, as every pharmacy has different stock and different generic brands. My partner spent several days searching for his medication and after asking at a dozen eczanesi, he finally found what he was looking for at a quarter of the price it is in Georgia.

22. Hand cologne is a thing

Istanbulites were sanitising their hands long before it was cool. The first time we had our hands doused in hand cologne by a friendly waiter, we assumed it was hand sanitiser – but no, this tradition far predates the pandemic.

Kolonya harks back to the days of the Ottoman Empire when a pleasant smelling liquid was sprinkled on guests’ hands as they would enter or exit private homes, hotels or hospitals. Today it’s widely used in restaurants after you pay the check. Some places have a little bottle on the table next to the salt and pepper shakers.

Scented with jasmine, lemon, rosewater or dark spice, a dash of hand cologne leaves your paws smelling fragrant fresh. Unlike hand gel, kolonya is very thin and watery – a little bit goes a long way. And because it’s ethanol-based, it does act as a disinfectant as well.

23. Don’t be surprised if you get asked for your phone number

Grocery stores, cosmetic stores, clothing shops and pharmacies alike seem to ask customers for a local phone number – I assume for marketing purposes rather than to track or register anything. This happened to us on a daily basis, and the first few times, the language barrier made it very confusing.

If you don’t have a local SIM (and even if you do), you can always say no and the cashier will copy a random number off the back of an old receipt.

24. Don’t stay too close to a mosque if you like to sleep in

Istanbul has its own backing track, and that is the sound of the call to prayer ( ezan ). The rumble of minarets whispering to each other is incredibly stirring – but your opinion might be slightly different if you happen to be laying your head near a mosque’s speakerbox every night.

The call to prayer happens five times a day, starting with the pre-dawn İmsak ( Fajr ), which reverberates around the city some time between 4-6am depending on the time of year. In July, it can be as early as 3.30am, with a second Sunrise ( Güneş ) call around 2 hours later.

With well over 3,000 mosques, you’ll more than likely have at least one or two nearby. If you’re a light sleeper, it’s worth scoping out the local mosques and choosing accommodation that’s further than earshot from the nearest minaret.

25. Don’t linger too long at a lokanta

Lokanta are a specific type of Turkish restaurant that serve casual, home-style meals to workers and tradesmen. Every neighbourhood has them, and they are a terrific place to sample salt-of-the-earth Turkish cuisine and soak up a bit of local culture at the same time.

When you sit down at a lokanta, a waiter will come to take your order within seconds. Some are cafeteria style, others are a-la-carte. At the end of the meal, empty plates are spirited away and the table sprayed and wiped just as fast as the food came out. Usually you settle the bill at a cash desk rather than requesting a written check.

It’s easy to overstay your welcome at this type of establishment, where the imperative is to turn tables as quickly as possible. They are perfect when you need a quick bite, but if you want a leisurely meal, choose a different sort of restaurant. Sidewalk meyhanes , for example, are the complete opposite. Serving meze and raki, they are designed for long, lingering lunches.

26. Don’t assume those meze plates are free

It’s normal for wait staff at a meyhane to present you with an attractive tray of small plates before they take your order. Turkish meze includes grilled eggplant with yogurt, fava beans, artichoke, and many, many more delicious bites designed for sharing over a bottle of raki.

Don’t make the mistake of assuming these small side salads are free – they are not. (Sides of chopped onion, herbs and chilli served in smaller silver dishes with kebab, on the other hand, are usually included in the price.)

27. Brace yourself for lots of uphill walking

They don’t call Istanbul the ‘City on Seven Hills’ for nothing. After a few days walking the streets, you might think the ‘city of seven million hills’ is a more apt nickname.

Constantinople was laid out in the image of Rome, which was of course built over a septet of hills. On the ground, it feels like all of Istanbul is rippled, with steep streets and vertiginous staircases at almost every turn. There are many advantages to this city plan, the delightfully sloped houses in Balat for one, and the spectacular city views you get from the higher elevations for another.

Comfy shoes and a whole lot of patience are absolutely essential when exploring Istanbul on foot, where it can literally feel like an uphill battle to get from one place to the next.

There are ways to avoid the slog, including using the funicular railways: Taksim-Kabatas and the historic Tunel that links Karakoy and Beyoglu. The latter is the world’s second-oldest subterranean rail line (after the London Underground) and the oldest still-operating underground funicular in Europe.

Istanbul travel tips to feel like a local

While it takes more than a three or four-day stay to feel like a fully fledged Istanbulite, here are a few little tricks to help you fit in.

28. Dress modestly to blend in

Istanbul is a metropolis through and through, with a liberal dress code to match. Almost anything goes, but I still recommend you cover up for comfort and to fit in with the crowd. Women should try to avoid plunging necklines, revealing fabrics, and very short hemlines.

There are noticeable differences between the European and Asian sides of Istanbul, with more modest dress and more hijabs worn in Uskudar compared to Eminonu, for example. Generally speaking, Turkey gets more conservative the further east you go, and this holds true even in the city centre. Keep it in mind if you’re travelling around the country.

One place you definitely must observe the dress code is mosques, where covered arms (to the elbow for men or the wrist for women) and legs (down to the ankles) is required. Women must also cover their hair. Majority of mosques have pull-over muumuus that you can borrow (for free) at the door to fully cover up. Note that there are no dress requirements for young kids.

It’s obligatory to remove your shoes when entering a mosque, so on days when you’re sightseeing, wear kicks that you can easily slip off and on. And if you prefer not to go barefoot, carry a pair of ankle socks in the bottom of your bag. Some mosques provide plastic bags, otherwise you can just leave your shoes outside.

29. Never skip breakfast…

Breakfast is certainly the most important meal of the day in Turkey. Sunday breakfast is the queen of the morning meals, when the famous kahvalti tabagi ‘spread breakfast’ comes into its own.

On a Sunday, some Istanbulites spend the better part of the day between mid-morning and late afternoon gathered around the breakfast table with friends or family, noshing on an extravagant spread of cheeses, olives, cut vegetables and eggs served with supple somun bread. Kahvalti is a daily occurrence in places like Besiktast ‘Breakfast Street’ and in gourmet cafes such as Van Kahvalti.

If you’re on a tight timeline or a budget, breakfast doesn’t have to be drawn-out or expensive: There are faster and more affordable options, such as a pick-and-choose breakfast at Cakmak Kahvalti Salonu, where small plates range from 2-8 TRY each. 

Borekcisi (borek bakeries) serve portions of steaming hot filled pastry and chai, or for a simple breakfast snack on the go, grab a simit bagel from a street vendor.

30. …But don’t order coffee first thing

Kahvalti means ‘before coffee’. Breakfast is traditionally accompanied by cay , strong black tea, rather than Turkish coffee. It’s normal to down half a dozen glasses of tea in a single sitting (though two or three is usually enough). Most sit-down kahvalti breakfasts come with two pots of tea.

If you want to do things like a local, save your Türk kahvesi for after lunch and start your morning with cay sade – strong and bitter tea with no sugar – instead.

31. Don’t be afraid to haggle at the bazaar

Haggling is customary and expected at markets in Istanbul and in other commercial settings. You’ll find that most items at the Grand Bazaar or Spice Bazaar have a price tag, but for those that don’t (and even for those that do), it’s quite normal to bargain for a better price. This is especially true if you’re buying more than one of something or multiple items from the same vendor. Rule of thumb is to aim for a 35-50% discount on the sticker price.

There are huge mark-ups at the Grand Bazaar, which seems to be almost exclusively the domain of tourists these days. There are local markets and street markets all over Istanbul where you’ll have a better chance of striking gold for a fair figure. Markets are held on different days of the week and following a rotating schedule, so you can always find something on. Popular food and flea markets take place in Karakoy (Tuesdays), Ortakoy (Thursdays), Uskudar (Fridays), and Besiktas (Saturdays).

If you do decide to brave the Grand Bazaar or another historic market in Istanbul, the best advice I’ve heard is to do your shopping in the mid-morning. It’s more likely that vendors have already made a few sales and met their daily commission targets, so there will be less pressure on you.

32. Don’t fall for the ‘shoe cleaner trick’

This one got us good.

One early morning we were walking down an alleyway in Besiktas when we heard a clack on the cobbles and noticed that someone had dropped a wooden shoe brush. Being the saint he is, my partner rushed to pick it up without a second thought and handed it back to the shoe cleaner whose caddy it had tumbled from.

Expressing his profound thanks, the guy promptly took a seat on the curb at our feet and insisted on shaking my husband’s hand in gratitude. That’s when he grabbed him by the wrist in a monkey grip and tried to pull him down for a coerced shoe cleaning. I should mention that he was wearing joggers, not leather shoes!

Neither of us were aware of this common scam at the time, so we thought the whole situation was quite hilarious. The man had a gorgeous smile and was very friendly – we actually gave him credit for this ingenious trick.

Only later when we heard about the scam did we realise what had (almost) happened to us. Ross managed to talk his way out of it, dirty shoes still intact.

We were not mad in the slightest, but it could have been a different story had we actually been talked into handing over cash. Keep an eye out for this trick, especially in touristy areas.

33. Embrace cat culture

There are up to a million cats and kittens living on the streets of Istanbul. Every cafe is a cat cafe, and every corner has its own posse of cute pusses. A picture-perfect clowder of cats lounging on fence posts and chairs like the princes and princesses they are awaits you at every turn.

Similar to street dogs in Georgia , the cats of Istanbul are regarded as community pets rather than strays and are fed and cared for by the locals. For the most part, they don’t bother people and keep to themselves. We definitely encountered a few fiercer felines on our travels – it’s pretty obvious which cats want pats and which ones need their personal space. They will let you know with a dagger stare or a hiss.

Cat culture can be traced back to Ottoman times, when tabbys helped to quash the city’s mice population. In this respect, cats are an inseparable part of the city’s social fabric.

If you’re an animal lover, it can be distressing to see so many cats living rough, especially when they’re not in the best shape. (Though I must say that every cat I met in Istanbul was plump and rosy.) It helps to know that Istanbul (and all of Turkey) has a no-kill, no capture policy.

34. Brush up on your basic hammam etiquette

Partaking in a traditional Turkish bath is a must-do in Istanbul. The hammams have aeons of history and custom attached to them – there are definite dos and don’ts, just as there are with the sulfur baths in Tbilisi . It helps to know how to handle things once the towels come out, lest you embarrass yourself.

Regarding nakedness, men normally strip down to nothing while women wear undies (single-use pairs are supplied by most bathhouses) then don a pestemal towel, which stays wrapped around you for the duration of your stay.

The Turkish-style skin peel/massage ( kese ) can be quite rough on the skin and muscles. The therapist, known as a natir or tellak , will always be of the same gender. It’s customary to tip them 10-20% after your treatment.

For more Turkish hammam hints, see this guide .

More helpful Istanbul tips to make the most of your visit

Finally, here are a handful of practical tips for planning your itinerary and getting the most out of your time in Istanbul.

35. Organise your Istanbul itinerary by neighbourhood/district

Istanbul has 39 districts, each with its own character and appeal. From the Instagrammable houses and antique shops in Balat, to the trendy cafes in Cihangir, the rambunctious fish market in Uskudar to the Ottoman-era mansions in Arnavutkoy , every corner of the city has something incredible up its sleeve.

A great way to organise your time in Istanbul is by planning your movements around the different neighbourhoods. Each one is quite discreet, so you can knock out a to-do list before moving onto the next.

Some neighbourhoods naturally pair together thanks to geography and transport logistics: Galata and Karakoy, Fener and Balat, Uskudar and Kadikoy, Cihangir and Cukurcuma. See my Istanbul 4-day itinerary for more ideas on how to plan your visit by district.

38. Consider signing up for a food tour

One thing every Istanbul neighbourhood has in common is its never-ending supply of cafes, restaurants and street food vendors. One of the best ways to discover the city – especially if you’re on a tight timeline – is by signing up for a food tour.

I was lucky enough to join Culinary Backstreets’ Born on the Bosphorus tour during my most recent visit to Istanbul. It was one of the highlights of my trip – not only because of the delicious food, but mainly thanks to our incredible guide, Benoit, who over the course of a full day taught me so much about Istanbul’s food and beyond.

The popular Taste of Two Continents tour, with 11 food stops and a Bosphorus ferry crossing, is a good alternative if you’re looking for a half-day experience.

37. Get an early start to beat the crowds

This is particularly important in summer, when the touristy parts of the city get extremely crowded. One of the best ways to avoid long waits at landmarks such as Galata Tower is by waking up early and arriving as doors open.

The metro starts running at 6am – and from Friday evening to Sunday morning public transport operates 24/7 – so there’s no excuse not to get out in the early AM.

38. Invest in a Museum Pass or Istanbul E-Pass

There is a gamut of different tourist cards and passes available for Istanbul. The 5-day Istanbul Museum Pass or the 2-7 day E-Pass is one of the best investments you can make if you plan on doing the rounds through the city’s best museums and big attractions.

The digital pass gives you skip-the-queue access to 10 of the city’s finest cultural institutions, including Galata Tower, Topkapi Palace and the Harem, the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, and the Galata Mevlevihanesi Museum.

Available to purchase online before you arrive, it uses a simple QR code system. Just show your pass on your mobile – no need to print anything.

Only buy the pass if it makes sense for you, though: You have to visit multiple attractions for it to pay off, though the other perks – particularly the ability to skip the ticket line – are invaluable in a sense.

Purchase the official Istanbul E-Pass here via Viator .

39. Check prayer times in advance

The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are both active mosques, open to visitors 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Except during prayer times, that is.

All of Istanbul’s mosques temporarily close to non-Muslim visitors five times a day for a period of about 90 minutes. For the duration of the Congregational Prayers, no tourists are permitted to enter.

It’s imperative to check prayer times in advance. If you show up while prayers are on, you will be met with a long wait outside. Times are signposted at the bigger mosques or you can check online .

The queue to enter the Hagia Sophia gets very long towards the end of the prayer session. The best time to visit is 30-40 minutes before the mosque is scheduled to close. Don’t try to visit on Fridays when the Jumu’ah prayer takes place – this is one of the busiest times, and it’s always crowded and chaotic.

If your Istanbul visit coincides with Ramadan or another Islamic holiday, prayer times might be different and mosques might be closed for longer periods during the day.

40. Skip the Bosphorus cruise – take advantage of local ferries instead

Some people opt to experience the Bosphorus on board a yacht at sunset with champagne and nibbles. If your budget won’t stretch that far, or you just prefer a local experience, then a ride on the public ferry offers the same ambiance and water views for a fraction of the price.

Hundreds of ferries criss-cross the strait, linking Istanbul’s Asian and European sides. The most scenic ferry routes include Besiktas to Kadikoy, Karakoy to Uskudar, and Karakoy to Kadikoy. Some boats go up the Bosphorus towards the Black Sea, and others head in the opposite direction towards the Princes’ Islands.

Bring a simit bagel to snack on (and to lure seagulls in for photos), or order a tulip-shaped glass of tea from one of the roving vendors on board.

41. Don’t miss the sunset from Galata Bridge

There is only one way to end a day in Istanbul in my opinion, and that’s by watching the sun go down from Galata Bridge. It might be touristy as heck, but there’s a good reason why this is such a popular spot. Views of the glittering water and intertwining boats, mosque minarets silhouetted against a dusky blue sky framed by fishermen casting their lines off the edge of the bridge, are absolute gold.

I recommend finding a spot to stand on the western side of the bridge, above the area where the Karakoy ferry docks. Aim to arrive about an hour before sunset for the best light.

For the perfect Istanbul photo, wait patiently for the garbage truck to come down the street and dump its load in the bins near the ferry terminal – this sends the seagulls into a frenzy, and they fill the skies with their spinning and diving for a good 15 minutes.

42. ‘Authentic’ Whirling Dervish ceremonies still exist – here’s how to find one

Speaking of Istanbul must-dos: A Whirling Dervish show is a bucket-list item for many. I was warned that all Mevlevi Sema ceremonies had become commercialised and ‘spoiled’ by tourists to the point where they just weren’t worth pursuing any more. So I made it my mission to find a real, ‘authentic’ Sema ritual in Istanbul, and I’m happy to say that I eventually did.

Get all the details about the best Whirling Dervish ceremony in Istanbul in this guide .

Where to stay in Istanbul

Budget: Hostel Le Banc (⭐ 9.5) – This popular hostel in Beyoglu is footsteps from the Galata Tower and Sishane metro station. It features air-conditioned rooms (private doubles and mixed/all-female 4 and 10-bed dorms), a shared lounge and a terrace.

Mid-range: 38 Hotel (⭐ 8.6) – Located in Sisli, close to Osmanbey metro station, this hotel has compact, tidy double rooms and suites.

Boutique: Hotel Empress Zoe (⭐ 9.2) – This gorgeous boutique hotel is decorated with heritage flourishes and boasts hammam-like ensuites and private internal terraces. The location in Fatih, minutes from Sultan Ahmet Mosque and the Blue Mosque, is very central yet the hotel still feels secluded.

Luxury: Ecole St. Pierre Hotel (⭐ 9.5) – Located in Beyoglu close to Galata Tower, this boutique-luxury hotel offers high-end suites with private courtyards and terraces. The building, an old Italian Dominican school with remnants of the 13th-century Galata walls inside its courtyard, is dripping with history.

Turkey essentials

Here are some of the websites and services I recommend for planning a trip to Turkey. Remember to check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.

FLIGHTS: Find affordable flights to Turkey using the Skyscanner website .

VISAS: Use iVisa to check if you need a tourist visa for Turkey and apply for an expedited visa online.

DOCUMENTATION: Use OneWayFly to obtain proof of onward travel/hotel reservation for your visa application.

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip to Turkey with HeyMondo , my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance.

CAR HIRE: Use the Local Rent platform to hire a car from a local agent. Prices start from as little as 18€ per day.

ACCOMMODATION: Find the best Turkey hotel deals on Booking.com .

CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: Browse the Viator website to find the best itineraries and prices for Istanbul food tours, Cappadocia balloon rides and more!

More Istanbul travel resources

• 1-4 day Istanbul itinerary
• Istanbul travel budget
• The ultimate guide to eating out in Istanbul
• Tips for visiting Galata Tower for Istanbul city views
• The best Whirling Dervishes ceremony in Istanbul
• Guide to Arnavutkoy, Istanbul’s most beautiful district
• The best places to visit in Turkey
• Turkey in winter: Where to go plus travel tips

12 Comments

Detailed tips are super helpful, especially about the best time to visit and the ins and outs of public transport.

Thank you. Right now in Turkey with wife and kids. Following your steps and recommendations. Just one thing: booking asked for a price but the hotel converted the price to Liras and charged me much more for exactly the same booking and service! Thank you again,

I love your travel blog! Your vivid descriptions and stunning photographs make me feel like I’m right there with you. It’s inspiring to see someone embracing adventure and exploring new cultures. Keep the travel stories coming!

Excellent article and links for further information. I am planning a trip to Turkey in September with my wife and your articles a great start and support. Great job! Alejandro

This is very, very helpful. Thank you so much.

Early in your article you indicated that Booking.com does not work in Turkey, yet in the section, entitled “Turkey Essentials”, you direct us to that site for Hotels. Maybe I am missing something, but that appears to be contradictory. I found the article very helpful…..Thanks for the information.

Hi JB – I still recommend using Booking, only you have to reserve from outside of Turkey ie. before you arrive.

Thanks so much, this was really helpful. Lots of good to know stuff that I didn’t find mentioned elsewhere

it was very helpful thank you

Ha, I made the same mistake again and didn’t read through your info thoroughly. In Georgia, I paid more than I needed to for a SIM at the airport and this time, I could have saved a few lira on a bank withdrawal in Istanbul.

Already appreciating the smiles and kindness in Istanbul very much.

Love your work Emily.

Perhaps it’s different for Australian passport holders, but I found the VOA to be a better deal than the eVisa for Americans. Our eVisas were fast and easy to get, but cost $50 plus a 2 dollar service fee. We got them before traveling to Turkey last year, but went twice to make them a better value. This past month we got VOA (no lines) and paid 25 euros each. Both are valid for 6 months. Plus you get a little visa stamp in your passport!

Thanks Owen for the info – you’re right, VOA is more affordable for US passport holders, but not for us Aussies unfortunately! I would have loved a visa stamp. I’ll update that now. Cheers!

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Video shows FedEx cargo plane land on its nose in Istanbul after landing gear fails

A Boeing-767 type cargo plane operated by FedEx ran into a couple of bumps and sparks as it attempted to land at Istanbul Airport in Turkey without its front landing gear Wednesday.

The cargo plane, operated by FedEx, was flying from Paris' Charles de Gaulle Airport, according to a statement by Turkey's Minister of Transport and Infrastructure, Abdulkadir Uraloğlu , when the pilot of the aircraft informed the control tower at Istanbul Airport that its landing gear had failed to open. The official said airport officials sprang into action and assisted the aircraft in touching down, while managing to remain on the runway. Emergency response, medical teams and necessary fire extinguishing equipment was also deployed on standby, Uraloğlu said.

Video footage from the landing shows the plane touching down on the runway before it tilts forward and starts dragging on its nose the runway creating a cloud of dust and sparks. It eventually comes to a stop with its fuselage touching the ground. As the plane comes to a halt, fire trucks douse the plane with water.

"With the successful guidance of our staff, the aircraft landed smoothly on its fuselage," Uraloğlu said.

No injuries reported

Two pilots were onboard the aircraft, according to Uraloğlu's statement, and were medically assessed after the landing. No injuries were reported.

The runway where the plane had landed was temporarily closed for all flights as multiple agencies gathered on site. A video shared by the minister shows crews and officials gathered around the aircraft while a fire truck and ambulance are parked on the side.

An investigation into the incident is ongoing, said Uraloğlu without going into further details into why the landing gear had failed.

Another Boeing plane issue? Don't fall for the headlines.

The freight aircraft involved in the accident is nearly 10 years old and was delivered to FedEx in 2014, according to a Boeing spokesperson. Following delivery, operators oversee ongoing maintenance for airplanes in operation. Reuters reported that Boeing 767 freighter is one of the most common cargo planes.

FedEx, meanwhile, in a statement to USA TODAY, said that the FedEx Express Flight 6268 was flying from Paris to Istanbul when it experienced an issue during landing.

"There were no reported injuries to our crew members," FedEx said. "We are coordinating with investigation authorities and will provide additional information as it is available."

While Boeing incidents have been in the news in recent months after a series of high-profile incidents, aviation experts maintain you shouldn't worry about flying .

“We don’t have to worry that there’s something systemically wrong with aviation,” Clint Balog, an associate professor at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, previously told USA TODAY.

Contributing: Staff, USA TODAY

Saman Shafiq is a trending news reporter for USA TODAY. Reach her at [email protected] and follow her on X @saman_shafiq7.

Boeing cargo plane makes emergency ‘belly’ landing after landing gear fails

I STANBUL – A FedEx Airlines Boeing 767 cargo plane landed at Istanbul Airport on Wednesday without its front landing gear, a Turkish Transport Ministry official said, adding there were no casualties and authorities had launched an investigation.

The aircraft, flying from Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, informed the control tower in Istanbul that its landing gear had failed to open and touched down with guidance from the tower, managing to remain on the runway, a ministry statement said.

Airport rescue and fire fighting teams were scrambled before landing, but no one was injured. The ministry gave no reason for the failure.

The aircraft involved is a nearly 10-year-old Boeing 767 freighter, one of the most common cargo planes and based on the 767 passenger model dating back to the 1980s.

An official from Turkey’s transport ministry said its teams were conducting examinations at the scene as part of the ongoing investigation, but did not provide further details.

Boeing referred queries to FedEX, which said in a statement it was coordinating with investigation authorities and would “provide additional information as it is available”.

Video footage obtained by Reuters showed sparks flying and some smoke as the front of the plane scraped along the runway before coming to a halt and being doused with firefighting foam. No fire appeared to have broken out.

The video showed the pilots holding the plane’s nose above the runway for several seconds after the main wheels had touched the ground, apparently executing the emergency drill for landing with a retracted nose gear that pilots train for, according to the SKYbrary aviation database.

In June last year, a small 22-year-old Boeing 717 flown by Delta Airlines made a similar smooth landing without a nose gear in Charlotte, North Carolina, in an incident later blamed on a fractured component.

The runway was temporarily closed to air traffic, but other runways at Istanbul airport were still operating normally, the airport operator IGA said.

Manufacturers are not typically involved in the operation or maintenance of jets once they enter service, but Boeing has been under intense media and regulatory scrutiny following a series of incidents on its smaller 737.

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Harrisburg vs Istanbul: A tale of two cities and their airport lounges | Travel Views

• Updated: May. 07, 2024, 6:58 p.m. |
• Published: May. 07, 2024, 6:57 p.m.

The Turkish Airlines Business Lounge at the new Istanbul airport offers more than 70,000 square feet of restaurants, cafes, and entertainment to while away the travel hours. Joyce M. Davis

• Joyce M. Davis | [email protected]

Airport lounges can be a most welcome respite for harried travelers, especially those traveling many hours overseas. And these days, with flight delays, packed planes and sky-high prices at airport restaurants, airport lounges are more desirable than ever.

But all airport lounges are not the same. The one at Harrisburg International Airport just may be among the worst in the world. And the Turkish Airlines Business Lounge in Istanbul may be among the best.

Harrisburg International Airport. December 29, 2022. Dan Gleiter | [email protected]

These two airports certainly represent opposite ends of the spectrum when it comes to lounges for first class and business travelers. The differences between HIA’s lounge and the one in Istanbul’s new airport couldn’t be starker.

First, it seems anyone can just walk into what purports to be the business lounge at the Harrisburg airport, though few travelers seem to know that. On the day I entered, there was no one at the reception area, and no one checked to see if I had a business class ticket or other credential to allow entry. There were five people in lounge, and the atmosphere was modern and clean, but far from luxurious and spacious.

The HIA lounge is a fraction of the size of the two in Istanbul, which together boast almost 140,000 square feet of plush sofas, reclining sleep-chairs, work places and even sleep alcoves.

HIA has two small rooms, one with a few chairs and counters, the other a meeting space with board-room styled table and chairs. There’s a refrigerator in one end of the room with bottled water and packaged mints at the reception area. That’s it. There isn’t even a bathroom in the lounge; you have to go outside to the one in the airport.

United Airlines unveiled its new Premium Lounge in Terminal C at Newark Liberty International Airport on Wednesday, May 18, 2022. Steve Hockstein | For NJ Advance

Most business lounges in the United States and around the world, including at BWI and the Philadelphia airport, offer at least a quiet, inviting space with comfortable seating, as well as free food and drinks, often including wine, spirits, soda, coffee, and tea. And most offer well maintained bathrooms. Some provide spa-like showers, with toiletries and towels. That’s a real plus for international travelers emerging from a transatlantic flight.

Istanbul’s business lounge would put many around the world to shame, but few are as spartan as the one at HIA, which doesn’t even have a coffee machine.

Compare that to Istanbul’s Turkish Air Business Lounge that offers almost 70,000 square feet of coffee and drink bars, luxury shops, restaurants, cafes, play areas for kids, work hub with desks and USB ports, as well as spotless bathrooms and showers.

A view over the new Istanbul airport from the Turkish Airlines Business Lounge. Joyce M. Davis

The airport actually has both a Business Lounge for Turkish Air top-tier ticket holders and those with Star Alliance, which includes United and a myriad of other international airlines. There’s also the nearby “Miles&Smiles” Lounge, with another 70,000 square feet for travelers holding elite credit cards who are Star Alliance travelers.

These lounges are virtual cities, featuring everything from golf and flying simulators to an art gallery and a movie theatre. There’s a room with giant screens featuring videos of world-acclaimed soccer stars. And there’s even special access for people in wheelchairs.

Once inside Istanbul’s luxury village, everything is free. That’s right, you can get non-stop wine, spirits, sodas, expressos, cappuccinos, lasagna, pizza, salads, all sorts of pastries and deserts, without paying a single lira. Did I mention the baklava and Turkish coffee?

Inside the Turkish Airlines Business Lounge at Istanbul Airport. Joyce M. Davis

The question most travelers want to know is how to get into these places.

At most airport lounges, you have to present a boarding pass for a business or first-class ticket to enter. Some lounges accept Priority Pass, which travelers can purchase for as little as $99 per year. Be warned, though, not all lounges accept Priority Pass, and lounges that do accept it may not be in every terminal of larger airports.

United Airlines unveiled it's new Premium Lounge in Terminal C at Newark Liberty International Airport on Wednesday. 05/18/2022 Steve Hockstein | For NJ Advance

Having a Priority Pass is not a slam dunk for access to all business lounges, domestically or internationally. And it can be confusing and frustrating trying to find what lounge in what terminal at what airport accepts Priority Pass or any of the elite credit cards for entry,

Some airport lounges allow entry to people who hold some upper-end credit cards like the American Express Platinum card. The card guarantees access to American Express’s Centurion Lounges, which provide generous amenities like free Wi-fi, food, drinks, and comfortable seating. But not every airport has a Centurion Lounge, and it could be in a terminal far, far away from where you take off.

Holders of Platinum American Express cards can gain entry into Delta’s business lounges even without business or first-class tickets, but only if they are flying Delta that day. An Amex Platinum card with an American Airlines ticket won’t cut it.

Some airlines offer one-day passes to their clubs. And if they want to skip the ticket requirements, travelers can simply buy membership into the lounge clubs. United Airlines offers club memberships between $500- $650 annually. American advertises new annual memberships between $750-$850.

If you travel a lot, the cost is worth it to access most airport lounges abroad and in the United States. Just don’t expect much at the lounge in Harrisburg.

Joyce M, Davis is PennLive’s Outreach & Opinion Editor, as well as an author and former foreign correspondent who has lived and worked around the globe. She is President/CEO of the World Affairs Council of Harrisburg, a member of the World Affairs Councils of America.

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The Man in Seat 61

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One train per day links Europe with Istanbul, a sleeper train called the Sofia-Istanbul Express. This runs from Sofia to Istanbul every day all year with sleeping-cars & couchettes.  From June until October it conveys a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul, at other times of year you travel from Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad in Bulgaria on a series of connecting trains where you join the sleepers or couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express to Istanbul.  This page explains train times, fares & how to buy tickets.

Train times eastbound 2024

* = Transfer between Halkali & Istanbul Sirkeci by frequent Marmaray suburban train as shown here .

Train times westbound 2024

How to read the timetable.

You read downwards, each column is a separate train.  Each train runs every day.

There's a summer & winter service, remember that Bulgaria & Romania put their clocks forward April-October, but Turkey remains on GMT+3 all year. 

Sofia-Istanbul is a direct train every day all year with sleeping-cars & couchettes (no seats).

There's a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul every day from early June to early October , attached to trains 461, 465 & 493/12501.

There's a direct couchette car from Istanbul to Bucharest every day from early June to early October , attached to trains 12502/492, 464 & 462.

When there's no direct couchette car, you travel between Bucharest & Istanbul using seats cars between Bucharest & Dimitrovgrad on each of the trains shown above, then the sleepers or couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express between Dimitrovgrad & Istanbul.  Don't worry, it normally all works like clockwork.

How to check this timetable :  You can find an accurate timetable in .pdf format at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg/en/a/sofia-istanbul-sofia which is what I use to update this page (please let me know if that link stops working).  Don't expect timetables to be posted months in advance, for example expect the June-September .pdf timetable to be posted on their website in late May or even early June, and so on.  You can try checking times at the German Railways website int.bahn.de , but bear in mind that both Bahn.de and the Interrail/Eurail Railplanner app may have incomplete or even incorrect data for this route, for example there is no change of train at Kapikule or at Plovdiv.  The train runs direct from Sofia to Halkali via Plovdiv & Dimitrovgrad, exactly as I show above.

How much does it cost ?

How to buy tickets.

The Sofia-Istanbul sleepers & couchettes have become popular and in summer and even autumn the train often leaves fully-booked.  I recommend booking in advance if you can, although there's no easy online booking for this route.  Read on for advice.

Eastbound, Sofia to Istanbul

The Sofia to Istanbul train cannot be booked online.

Option 2, you can buy in person at Sofia Central Station at the international ticket window in the main hall, see the Sofia station page for opening hours .

Eastbound, Bucharest to Istanbul - when the direct couchette car operates

Option 1, buy tickets for the direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul at the Romanian Railways website bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro .

Booking usually opens 60 days before departure , but may open just a week or two ahead at the start of the season in June.

Click EN top right for English.  Bucharest is listed as Bucuresti (Romania) , for Istanbul you should enter/select Halkali (Turkey).

You need to collect hard-copy tickets from the ticket office at Bucharest Gara de Nord (or other main station in Romania), so only use this site for one-way or round trip journeys starting in Romania.  It cannot book this route in the off-season when the direct couchette car doesn't run.

Option 3, buy in person at Bucharest Nord, from the international ticket window in the booking hall, see the Bucharest Nord station page .

Eastbound, Bucharest to Istanbul - at all other times

Step 1, book the train from Bucharest to Ruse (in winter) or to Gorna Orjahovitsa (in the spring/autumn shoulder periods, see the timetable above for dates) using at the Romanian Railways international website, bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro .

You need to collect hard-copy tickets from the ticket office at Bucharest Gara de Nord (or other main station in Romania), so only use this site for one-way or round trip journeys starting in Romania.  Booking usually opens 60 days before departure .

Step 2, now book the Bulgarian train from Ruse or Gorna to Dimitrovgrad at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg .  You need to register, tickets can be printed out.  Booking usually opens 60 days before departure .  If you don't manage to book this sector online, don't worry, you can buy a ticket at the station when you get to Ruse (or Gorna) or (if necessary) buy one on the train.

Step 3, book a sleeper or couchette from Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul at Gorna Orjahovitsa station, you have enough time between trains to do so, and Gorna ticket office is (obviously) equipped with the Bulgarian Railways ticketing system so can do this.  However, the international ticket window may be closed at weekends and holidays.  The train is busy, berths are often available on the day but not always.  There is no easy way round this.

Tip:   if there are no berths tonight, but berths are available tomorrow, book tomorrow and stop off at Veliko Tarnovo, it's well worth the stop!)

Or you can buy in person at Bucharest Nord, from the international ticket window in the booking hall, see the Bucharest Nord station page .  In the off-season they can only sell you a ticket as far as Ruse (or at times, Gorna Orjahovitsa), don't worry, buy that, then buy an onward ticket from Ruse or Gorna to Dimitrovgrad at the station when you get to Ruse or Gorna or (if necessary) buy one on the train.  When you change trains at Gorna, book the Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul sleeper train at the ticket office there, you have time between trains.

Westbound, Istanbul to Sofia

Westbound, Istanbul to Bucharest in summer when couchette car operates

Westbound, Istanbul to Bucharest at all other times

Step 1, book a sleeper or couchette from Istanbul to Dimitrovgrad.

You can contact Amber Travel, www.ambertravel.com , a reliable and experienced agency who can arrange this if you email them.

Or contact Andy on [email protected] , the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com .  Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Istanbul, or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details.  He cannot arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations for westbound journeys from Istanbul as the ticket office need to see your actual pass, a copy is insufficient.

Or book in person at Istanbul Sirkeci station, at ticket window 4 for international tickets, open 08:30-19:30 daily, credit cards accepted.

Step 2, book from Dimitrovgrad to Ruse at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg .  You need to register, tickets can be printed out.  Booking usually opens 60 days before departure .  If you don't manage to book this online, don't worry, you can buy a ticket on the train if necessary.

Step 3, buy a ticket from Ruse to Bucharest at the station either in Gorna when changing trains or at Ruse.  You cannot book this train online in this direction.

What's the train like ?

Sofia-istanbul sleeping-cars.

The Sofia-Istanbul Express has two Turkish TVS2000 sleeping-cars built in 1998 (car numbers 483 & 484) and can have a 3rd such car at busy times.  The car number is indicated on the steel destination plate attached to the side of the car towards one end.

Each sleeping-car is air-conditioned with 10 compartments.  Each compartment can be sold as a double (2nd class fare or railpass plus the double sleeper supplement) or single (1st class fare or railpass plus the single sleeper supplement).

Each compartment has an upper & lower berth, sink, table & fridge.  All necessary bedding is provided, along with soap and towel.  Berths fold away to reveal two armchairs for day use.  There are toilets at each end of the car.  There's a 2-pin power outlet intended for electric razors, but no power outlet specifically for mobiles & laptops.  These cars were built with a shower compartment at one end, but this is now used as a storeroom for bedding.  You may be able to buy tea or coffee from the sleeper attendant.

Sofia-Istanbul & Bucharest-Istanbul couchette cars

In addition to the sleeping-cars, the Sofia-Istanbul Express has one Turkish TVS2000 air-conditioned couchette car built in 1996 or 2002 (car number 485).  The direct summer-only couchette car between Bucharest & Istanbul is of the same type (car 479).  The car number is indicated on the steel destination plate attached to the side of the car towards one end.  The car has 10 compartments each with 4 berths, two upper & two lower.  Sheets, pillow & blanket are provided, but you arrange these yourself.  The beds fold away to form seats for day use as shown below.  There are toilets at each end of the car.  There's a 2-pin power outlet in each compartment above the door to the corridor, but you'll need a 2m cable to use it whilst sitting down with your phone or laptop.  Photos courtesy of @Colcestrian and

What's the journey like ?

Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad

Between June and October there's a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul.  Outside this period, you travel from Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad on a series of connecting trains, but it all works like clockwork and you won't be the only person making these connections.  The route & scenery are the same.

A few hours after leaving Bucharest's imposing Gara de Nord , the train reaches the Romanian border point, Giurgiu Nord.  It then crosses the Danube into Bulgaria on a 2.5 km long steel bridge , the longest steel bridge in Europe, built in 1954 and now fitted with a road deck above the railway.  It curves around off the bridge and arrives at Ruse, the Bulgarian border station on the other side.

When the Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car operates, it's attached to a direct Bucharest-Sofia train from Bucharest as far as Gorna Orjahovitsa - that Bucharest-Sofia train in fact runs for some weeks before and after this period, with no need to change at Ruse.  However, in the winter timetable, you take an air-conditioned Romanian express railcar from Bucharest to Ruse and change into a Bulgarian locomotive-hauled train bound for Sofia, taking it as far as Gorna.

The train then spends a lazy afternoon meandering along pleasant river valleys across rural Bulgaria, have your camera handy.  Pour yourself a beer or glass of wine (remember to bring your own food & drink), read away the hours & enjoy the trip.  The highlight is the journey through the lush green Shipka Pass .  The train from Gorna to Dimitrovgrad calls at Veliko Tarnovo , the ancient capital of Bulgaria - well worth a 24h stopover!

Sofia to Dimitrovgrad

The Sofia-Istanbul Express leaves Sofia's impressive communist-era central station and heads off across Bulgaria as night falls.  Remember to bring your own food & drink, maybe even a bottle of wine, as there's no catering on board.

Dimitrovgrad to the Turkish border

At Dimitrovgrad, the Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car (when running) is attached to the Sofia-Istanbul Express.  When it's not running, passengers from Bucharest & Veliko Tarnovo change onto the sleepers & couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express.

Border controls at Svilengrad , Bulgaria

Late at night, the train reaches the Bulgarian border point at Svilengrad.  You remain on the train, Bulgarian border guards come on board.  They collect all passports and take them off the train to check them, they come back on board and return them before the train leaves.  This happens in both directions, eastbound & westbound.

When Bulgarian controls and completed and passports returned, the train heads across the border into Turkey, reaching the Turkish border station of Kapikule well after midnight.

Border controls at Kapikule, Turkey

At Kapikule you need to leave the train for border formalities, in both directions:

Eastbound procedure:   Step off the train onto the platform, taking all your bags with you.  Step 1, go to the passport office further along the platform in the main building and get your passport stamped (see the photo below).  Step 2, get your bags X-rayed in the small white shed-like building on the platform to the left of the main station building.  After the train itself has been security checked, you can then re-board.  Note that until 2022 you had to do the X-ray check first and passport check second, but in 2022 it was reportedly switched round.  Feedback appreciated .

Tip:   You may find the station cafe open for the train arrival, it accepts contactless payment cards so enjoy a late night coffee or snack while you wait to reboard!

Westbound procedure :   Step off the train onto the platform, in this direction you can leave your bags on the train.  Go to the passport office on the platform in the main building, get your passport stamped (see the photo below).  You can then re-board the train. 

Remember that time zones change here:   From the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October, Bulgarian & Turkish time is the same, GMT+3.  But Turkey has no Daylight Saving Time, so Turkish time is 1 hour ahead of Bulgarian time in winter.

The train arrives at Kapikule on the platform shown above, adjacent to the station building.  X = X-ray baggage check shed.  P = passport office in main building.  Photo courtesy of Daniel Sterk .

Onwards to Halkali & Istanbul

In years gone by, the train used to make a dramatic entry into Istanbul through the Byzantine Walls of Theodosius, skirting the Sea of Marmara underneath the very walls of the Topkapi Palace into the beautiful Istanbul Sirkeci station, opened in 1888 in the heart of the city.  However, the train now terminates at a suburban station called Halkali some 25km west of Sirkeci, expect an arrival an hour or two late, so allow for this and enjoy the ride.  You then take one of the frequent Marmaray suburban trains into Istanbul Sirkeci as explained further down this page .  Sirkeci station is walking distance from all the sights, or you can hop into a taxi to the famous Pera Palas Hotel .  Map of Istanbul showing Sirkeci station .

Travel tips

Finding & boarding your train

As with virtually all European trains, there's no check-in.  Just stroll into the station, find your train and get on, any time before it leaves.  The sleeper or couchette attendant will normally greet you on the platform at the door to the sleeping-car and check your reservation.  He'll come round and see you soon after departure to take your ticket or pass.

In Bucharest, look for the train to Sofia on the departure screens as the couchette car to Istanbul is attached to this train.

Using an Interrail or Eurail pass

You can use this train with a pass, of course, paying the relevant couchette or sleeper supplement.  However, there's a minor irritation when using a pass from Sofia, Bucharest or Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul.  You are of course using a direct overnight train so the Interrail night train rule applies and only one pass day (the date of departure) is used.  Unfortunately, the Railplanner app incorrectly thinks it's a separate train from Kapikule to Istanbul, therefore if you add it to your pass directly from the Railplanner timetable it will trigger the use of a second pass day to cover what it thinks is a second train leaving after midnight.  The solution is to add the Bucharest or Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul train to your pass manually.

How to transfer from Halkali to Sirkeci

The international train from Sofia & Bucharest to Istanbul now terminates at Halkali, a suburban station 25 km west of Istanbul's famous Sirkeci station, the original terminus in the city centre opened in 1888.

The easiest way to reach Sirkeci is to take a frequent Marmaray suburban train, these run at least every 15 minutes, journey time from Halkali to Sirkeci around 35 minutes, fare around TL 35 (€1.90).

Use the self-service machines at the station to buy an Istanbulkart public transport smartcard for 50 TL, then top it up to get to Sirkeci.

The Marmaray trains arrive at the new underground platforms beneath the historic (but now trainless) ground level terminus.  They continue beyond Sirkeci through the Bosphorus rail tunnel to Söğütlüçeşme station on the Asian side, where the high-speed YHT trains to Ankara & Konya start ,

If you prefer to go direct to your hotel by taxi, it will cost the equivalent of around €16 from Halkali to central Istanbul, but have Turkish lira with you to pay the driver as there is no ATM at Halkali.

How to transfer from Sirkeci to Halkali

The international train to Sofia & Bucharest now leaves from Halkali, a suburban station 25 km west of Istanbul Sirkeci station in the city centre.

The easiest way to reach Halkali from central Istanbul is to take a frequent Marmaray suburban train from Sirkeci station, these run at least every 15 minutes, journey time from Sirkeci to Halkali around 35 minutes, fare around TL 35 (€1.90).

The Marmaray trains leave from the underground platforms at Sirkeci, beneath the now-trainless ground level terminus.

To be on the safe side, I'd leave Sirkeci at least 1h15 before the sleeper is due to leave Halkali.  Check the departure time from Halkali shown on your ticket carefully, as it varies.

At Halkali there's now a brief baggage X-ray check when accessing the platform for the train to Sofia & Bucharest.

Tip:   Buy food and drink before you leave as there are few or no facilities n or around Halkali station, just a waiting room.

If you prefer to go from your hotel to Halkali by taxi, it will cost the equivalent of around €16.

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Turkey Travel Advisory

Travel advisory july 26, 2023, turkey - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Exercise increased caution when traveling to Turkey due to terrorism and arbitrary detentions. Some areas have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Do Not Travel To:

• Sirnak province, Hakkari province, and any area within six miles (10 kilometers) of the Syrian border due to terrorism.

Country Summary:  Terrorist groups continue plotting possible attacks in Turkey.  Terrorists may attack with little or no warning, targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, local government facilities, hotels, clubs, restaurants, places of worship, parks, major sporting and cultural events, educational institutions, airports, and other public areas.

Security forces have detained tens of thousands of individuals, including U.S. citizens, for alleged affiliations with terrorist organizations based on scant or secret evidence and grounds that appear to be politically motivated.  U.S. citizens have also been subject to travel bans that prevent them from departing Turkey. Participation in demonstrations not explicitly approved by the Government of Turkey, as well as criticism of the government (including on social media), can result in arrest.

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to Turkey.

If you decide to travel to Turkey:

• Stay alert in locations frequented by tourists.
• Avoid demonstrations and crowds.
• Stay at hotels with identifiable security measures.
• Monitor local media and be prepared to adjust your plans quickly.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive travel alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report for Turkey.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel. 
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Sirnak Province, Hakkari Province, and Any Area within six miles (ten kilometers) of the Syrian Border – Level 4:  Do Not Travel

Do not travel to Sirnak province, Hakkari province, or any area within six miles (10 kilometers) of the Turkey/Syria border due to the continued threat of attacks by terrorist groups, armed conflict, and civil unrest.  Terrorist attacks, including suicide bombings, ambushes, car bomb detonations, and improvised explosive devices, as well as shootings, and illegal roadblocks leading to violence have occurred in these areas. U.S. government employees are subject to travel restrictions in the entire provinces of Sirnak and Hakkari, and any areas within 10 km of the Syrian border.

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

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Bosphorus Express night train

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The Bosphorus Express night train travels between the Romanian capital of Bucharest to Istanbul in Turkey. With this night train, you can reach Istanbul (Halkali station) in almost 20 hours.

Please keep in mind that you will briefly have to get off the train in Kapikule, at the Turkish border, to get your passport stamped.

Bosphorus Express route

The Bosphorus Express night train runs daily between Bucharest (Bucuresti Nord station) and Istanbul (Halkali station) until October 9th.

Halkali station is situated on the Western outskirts of Istanbul, from here you can take a metro/Marmaray train to the city centre and under the Bosphorus to the Asian side. Make sure to have Turkish Lira notes beforehand, as most metro-ticket machines do not take bank cards.

The Bosphorus Express runs on the following route:

Bucharest – Istanbul

Please note that this train will be connected to the Sofia-Istanbul Express in the evening, before continuing to Istanbul.

Reservations

Reservations for the Bosphorus Express are compulsory.

How to make reservations?

You can reserve your seat on the Bosphorus Express in the following ways:

At the train station in Bucharest, Romania or Istanbul Halkali station, Turkey.

Reservation fees

• 6-bed couchette: € 9.40 p.p.
• 4-bed couchette: € 14 p.p.
• Tourist/Triple sleeper : € 22 p.p.
• Double sleeper: € 33 p.p.
• Single sleeper: € 77

Facilities and services

• Air conditioning
• Luggage racks
• Power sockets

Facilities may differ per train and route. There is no on-board catering on this train. We recommend you to bring your own snacks and drinks.

Operated by:

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