chateau d'if visit

Visit the Château d'If

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Reading time: 0 min Published on 4 January 2023, updated on 16 April 2024

The famous island fort facing Marseille immortalised by Alexander Dumas in The Count of Monte Cristo

This famous fortress, standing on a rocky island off the coast of Marseille , was immortalised by Alexandre Dumas in The Count of Monte Cristo as the prison where the novel’s hero, Edmond Dantès, was incarcerated before ultimately escaping.

The castle was built by François I in 1524 and over the centuries it gained a fearsome reputation as many opponents of royal power were jailed and died in the fortress. The Castle of If has been perfectly preserved and is one of the most impressive historical sites on the Mediterranean coastline.

(Subject to modification. Open

)* 2nd January to 1st April: from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. * 2nd April to 30th September: from 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. * 2nd october to 31st December: from 9.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.

The last visit depends on the timetable of boats, information at the tourist information center, on our website or on Frioul If express.

• Mondays from 2nd January to 1st April and from 2nd october to 31st December
• 1st January, 1st May and 25th December and subject to bad weather
• Unaccompanied tour with guide booklet: French, English, German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, Japanese, Chinese, Russian, Czech, Portuguese

Duration: 45 min (1 hr 30 min with visit of the island)

Audio-guide tour: French, English, German, Italian, Spanish

Guided tour: Guided tours available in low and high season Five guided history tours at set times (please contact the monument directly for dates and times) Reservations: for groups only Duration: 30 mins

Tour-lectures: French, English, German and Italian

Duration: 1 hr 30 min including the tour of the island and two crossings (20 mins. each) Booking required: 8 days in advance Marseille Tourist Information Centre Tel 0826 500 500 / Fax (33) (0)4 91 13 89 20

Faci lities

• La vatories
• The group can be dropped off and picked up again on the Vieux-Port
• Parking for coaches 800 m (parking of Saint-Jean Castle)

** * Adul ts : 6 € * Concessions : 5 € * Free admission: minors under 18 Free admission: 18-25 years old (citizens of one of the 27 countries of the EU or are non-European permanent residents of France) * excluding school groups Crossing not included * Extra charge: Audio-guide * Rate for tourism professionals and groups (minimum 20 people): 5 €

• 1, Quai de la Fraternité in Marseille, old port boat bridge Frioul, If Express (20 minutes crossing to go and 45 minutes to come back)

Château d’If 8, rue Glandevès 13001 Marseille Tel: (33) (0)4 91 59 02 30 (landline) / (33) (0)6 03 06 25 26 (mobile 1)/ (33) (0)6 80 52 75 9606 80 52 75 96 (mobile 2) Fax: (33) (0)4 91 59 05 62 Email: [email protected]

• Centre des Monuments Nationaux
• TRIPADVISOR - Château d'If

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• Château d’If in Marseille
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• Culture and heritage
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One nautical mile from the Old Port of Marseille , you can make out the silhouette of the Château d’If and the Frioul archipelago. This monument, perched on a small limestone rock in the middle of the Mediterranean waters, became famous thanks to the novel The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas . More than a prison, the Château d’If was also a fortress designed to protect the city from enemy invasions and from itself.

The fort of Francis I

The history of the Château d’If is linked to King Francis I and the wars between France and the Habsburg Empire.

At the time of the invasion of Charles V, the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, in 1524, Marseille lacked proper defense against enemy attacks. Following these events, King Francis I ordered the construction of the fort on the island of If and Notre-Dame de la Garde . The construction of the Château d’If was completed in July 1531. Thanks to its deterrent force, this fort was never attacked. The fortress offers a great view of Marseille and its harbor, and effectively ensures the defense of the city in case of a sea attack.

The roles of this fort were multiple. It had to protect the coasts from hypothetical invasions, cover the exits as well as the anchorage of the new fleet of royal galleys and watch over Marseille. Provence has been attached to the Kingdom of France only since 1482, and Marseille continues to retain a large degree of autonomy. When they passed through the Porte Réale, the kings of France had to submit to an ancient ceremony during which they took an oath to respect “the privileges, franchises and liberties of the city of Marseille”.

From 1580 to 1871, the fort served as a state prison . Many Protestants and Republicans were incarcerated there. Knight Anselme was one of the first to be locked up in this prison from which it was impossible to escape because of its location. He was accused of plotting against the monarchy then in power. Mirabeau also stayed there from 1774 on, with a lettre de cachet. The coffin of General Kléber, who had distinguished himself during the French Revolution, was kept for 18 years at the Château d’If. Some cells house graffiti from former prisoners, bearing witness to their daily lives, history, and dreams.

Voir cette publication sur Instagram Une publication partagée par château d'If (@chateauif)

Voir cette publication sur Instagram Une publication partagée par château d'If (@chateauif) le 29 Févr. 2020 à 12 :00 PST

A place of legends

When Alexandre Dumas published his novel The Count of Monte Cristo in 1844, the Château d’If became famous all over the world. The hero of his book, Edmond Dantes, is detained in this prison, whose living conditions in the 19th century were insalubrious and sordid. The character is accused of being a Bonapartist conspirator and decides to foment his revenge from his cell. After 14 years of imprisonment, he manages to escape with the help of Abbé Faria. This is the beginning of the adventures of the Count of Monte Cristo. The novel inspired 23 movies and was translated all over the world. Among all the prisoners incarcerated on the island, the Count of Monte Cristo is the most famous, even though this prisoner never really existed. Unless… Who knows?

The island of If was already a place of legend long before the construction of the castle. The first prisoner on this piece of land was the only rhino in Asia to have walked on European soil at the time. The animal, a gift from King Manuel of Portugal to Pope Leo X, made a stopover on the island of If during his journey. Finally, after the ship that was carrying it in the baie of Genoa sank, it was offered to be stuffed.

During their visit, visitors can discover several secrets of the fortress.

The Frioul archipelago

The Frioul archipelago , located 2 kilometers from Marseille, has four islands : Pomègues, Ratonneau, If and Tiboulen. These limestone rocks are appreciated throughout the region for their fine sandy beaches, quiet coves and unspoiled wilderness.

The islands of the Frioul archipelago have their own climate. In winter, the sea softens the temperatures and makes them less harsh. On summer nights, it covers the plots of land with dew and maintains humidity. There, the elements are not always mild, the wind beats the limestone rocks and erodes the soil. 400 original plant species have managed to tame this microclimate and develop. About a hundred species of birds come to stay on the archipelago. In order to protect this remarkable fauna and flora, the Frioul archipelago has been attached to Calanques National Park .

On the Ratonneau Island stands another emblematic monument of Marseille, the Caroline Hospital . Built by the architect Michel-Robert Penchaud in the 19th century, the building made it possible to quarantine patients suffering from yellow fever. It was partly destroyed by aerial bombardments during the liberation of Marseille in August 1944. In 1980, the Caroline Hospital was listed as a Historical Monument. It is currently being restored thanks to the ACTA VISTA association, which organizes projects dedicated to integration and training in heritage professions for people struggling the most to find employment.

The Château d’If and the other islands of Frioul offer a great view of the Bay of Marseille, from the Blue Coast to the calanques.

Plan your trip to the Château d’If

The site can be visited all year round , however the days and opening schedules vary according to the seasons:

• From January 2 to April 1: from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (closed on Monday)
• From April 2 to September 30: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (open every day)
• From October 2 to December 31: from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (closed on Monday)
• Closed on January 1, May 1, and December 25

The visit to the Château d’If offers you an exotic experience just a few minutes by boat from Marseille and the Old Port, and visitor reviews emphasize this unusual dimension.

A visit document is available at the reception desk in French, English, German, Italian, Spanish, Czech, Russian, Chinese, Dutch, Japanese and Portuguese. Guided tours are also organized.

The Château d’If and the Frioul archipelago are accessible only by boat. Several companies offer round trips, so it is essential to check the schedule of the water shuttle leaving from the Old Port (Vieux-Port).

Website: https://www.chateau-if.fr/

The Château d’If is accessible by water shuttle from the Old Port of Marseille. You must get in touch with the shipping companies that operate the connections to access the monument. Weather conditions may exceptionally lead to a cancellation of the shuttles.

Selection of monuments in Bouches-du-Rhône :

• Arles amphitheater
• Hôtel de Sade
• Château des Baux de Provence
• Montmajour Abbey
• Monuments of Bouches-du-Rhône
• TO & Travel Agents

Chateau d’If in Southern France: A Visitor’s Guide

Chateau d’If is an isolated fortress built on a rocky island off the coast of Marseille in southern France. However, it’s more than just a fortress – It’s the prison where Edmond Dantès was held captive in the book, The Count of Monte Cristo . The island fortress is open for tours year-round, offering visitors the chance to explore the prison and get some amazing views of Marseille.

Here’s your guide to visiting Chateau d’If (pronounced ‘shatoe deef’).

History of Chateau d’If

The fortress was built on the island of If in the early 1500s. It was intended to offer military protection to the city of Marseille should it ever be attacked. Chateau d’If has three levels, with windows for archers and guns.

By the 1800s, it was determined there was not a military role for the fortress. But with its position offshore, and strong currents in the waters below, Chateau d’If made the perfect prison (similar to Alcatraz off the coast of San Francisco). Anyone opposing official authority was imprisoned there. As keeping with the times, poorer prisoners were kept in the basement floors of the chateau. Wealthier prisoners could buy better “accommodations” on higher floors, offering better food and even a fireplace.

The chateau is likely most known for its role in the book, The Count of Monte Cristo , published in 1844. Edmond Dantès was wrongly imprisoned in Chateau d’If for 14 years. He did escape and went on to seek revenge on those involved in his misfortunes. It’s also rumored that the ‘Man in the Iron Mask’ was held for a time, but there are no records indicating he was ever in the area.

Chateau d’If was demilitarized in 1890 and opened to the public.

How to Get to Chateau d’If

Chateau d’If is only accessible by ferry boat. The Frioul If Express departs from the Vieux Port (Old Port) for the 20-minute ride out to Chateau d’If. Tickets for the boat are separate from tickets to visit the fortress, but can be purchased at the ticket counter located on the southeast end of Old Port. You can purchase tickets one day in advance. They accept cash (Euros) or credit card. If you want to visit the nearby Isle de Frioul, you can purchase at ticket to that island as well. I’ve never visited that particular island, so I don’t have information on that stop.

Boats to Chateau d’If may be canceled if weather and waves pose a safety issue, so be sure to plan accordingly.

Be in line a few minutes before your boat’s loading time. Once aboard, take a seat and enjoy the ride out of Old Port. In fact, Old Port is where that literary work by Alexandre Dumas begins. If you look south, you’ll see a church atop the nearby hill. Notre Dame de la Garde is in the opening line of the book, The Count of Monte Cristo :

“On the 24th of February, 1815, the watch-tower of Notre Dame de la Garde signaled the arrival of the three-master Pharaon, from Smyrna, Trieste, and Naples.”

When you arrive at Chateau d’If, disembark and head up the stairs toward the fortress. You’ll need to purchase your tickets to tour the island and chateau. It’s best to have cash (Euros) on hand, but credit card is also accepted.

What to See at Chateau d’If

If is a small island. The main attraction is obviously the chateau, but you’ll also notice a little lighthouse. You’re free to wander the island and explore everything inside and outside of the actual fortress. There are brochures in many languages, so pick one up to help you as you explore the chateau.

Inside Chateau d’If, you can walk see the varying degrees of prison cells – from dark dungeons in the basement to nice (which is a relative term) rooms on the higher floors. At the top, you’re offered some wonderful views of the nearby Frioul island, as well as the city of Marseille.

While in the dungeons, you’ll see where author Alexandre Dumas had his main character, Dantès, held as prisoner. You’ll see the so-called tunnel Abbe Faria dug to connect cells with Dantès. Chateau d’If has embraced the story of The Count of Monte Cristo and even had small TV screens playing scenes from the movie in the “actual” prison cells.

As you make your way to the higher floors, you’ll see signs with famous names of prisoners held in the fortress. As mentioned previously, there is a sign indicating the spot where The Man in the Iron Mask was held, but that’s just legend. But it’s cool to tell everyone you saw the room where the infamous man was held, right?

There is a gift shop if you need to pick up a little souvenir before heading back to the dock to board the boat back to Marseille. Hopefully you held on to your ticket for the boat, as they will ask to see it again as you board. The boat may head to Frioul island to pick up more passengers before heading back to Marseille.

The Details

Address:  Access the boat to Château d’If at 1 Quai de la Fraternité, 13001 Marseille, France (That’s located on the southeast end of Vieux Port (Old Port)).

Cost: There are two costs for your visit: The boat ride and the fortress tour admission.

• 10,80€ per person for roundtrip passage to one island (If or Frioul). 16,20€ for a roundtrip ticket to both islands).
• 6€ per person for admission to Chateau d’If. Children under 4 are free.

Hours:  The hours vary by season, but Chateau d’If is closed on January 1 and December 25.

• January 2 – April 1: Open everyday (except Mondays) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
• April 2 – September 30: Open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
• October 1 – December 31: Open everyday (except Mondays) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Website:  http://www.chateau-if.fr/en

If you have plans to visit Paris and northern France, be sure the Eiffel Tour is part of your visit.

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Château d'If

Top ways to experience Château d'If and nearby attractions

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CHÂTEAU D'IF: All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

Visiting Chateau d’If, the beautiful Count of Monte Cristo Prison

Of all the literary sites to visit in France, the Chateau d’If, aka the “Count of Monte Cristo prison,” has been high on my literary travel bucket list for a while. Now that I’ve finally gotten to visit it, I’m sharing everything you need to know to visit the Chateau d’If for yourself.

The Chateau d’If is an iconic island prison off the coast of Southern France. It’s a name that is instantly recognizable in the Western world, whether it’s because you read and loved The Count of Monte Cristo or because you swooned over Jim Caviezel and Henry Cavill in the 2002 movie adaptation (also, fun fact in case you forgot, Dumbledore is in it!).

However, you may not realize that the Chateau d’If was a real prison, in operation from the 1500s until the 1800s. The prison is now a tourist site open to visitors all year round. It is in reality as it was in fiction, a “monument of terror which [has] become a monument of curiosity” (from The Count of Monte Cristo ).

I recently got to visit, and while it was a bit of a headache trying to figure out how to get there, it was well worth the trip for this literary traveler.

Yes, I found it frustratingly difficult to find information online about how to visit the Chateau d’If. There really isn’t a good visitor’s guide out there that I could find, but luckily for you, I’ve done all the research, made the trek to Chateau d’If myself, and now I’ve compiled my knowledge and experience here to create this very informative, inspiringly beautiful, truly spectacular, monumentally comprehensive, Chateau d’If visitor’s guide.

In This Post

“To Dantes, who had not been thinking about it at all, the sudden appearance of this strange shape, this prison shrouded in such deep terror, this fortress which for three centuries has nourished Marseille with its gloomy legends, had the same effect as the spectacle of the scaffold on a condemned man.” Quote from The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas

Readers’ Note : All Count of Monte Cristo quotes in this post come from the Robin Buss translation , which is beautiful. You can get this translation as a Penguin Classic (black spine), which is my personal favorite edition for readers’ copies.

And if you’re planning a trip to France or elsewhere in Europe, make sure you check out m y top travel gear picks , all based on personal experience and insight as a constant traveler.

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As always, this post may contain affiliate links, which means at no additional cost to you, shopping from them may generate small commissions to support the operations of this blog.

Whenever possible, I recommend buying books at local bookshops or through Bookshop.org , because shopping there puts the profits right into the hands of indie bookstores all over the country.

Related: If you love visiting indie bookstores, check out the Book Barn in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Alexandre Dumas, author of The Count of Monte Cristo

Alexandre Dumas, author of The Count of Monte Cristo , is one of the most famous 19th-century French writers. He was born in France in 1802 with a rather complicated family history: his paternal grandparents were the Marquis de La Pailleteria (a white French nobleman) and Marie-Césette Dumas, one of the enslaved Haitian women on his estate. So yes, some may not have realized that Alexandre Dumas was black, or 1/4 black to be exact.

Alexandre Dumas’s father is deserving of his own history, but we’ll just hit a couple of interest points. Thomas-Alexandre Dumas was a mulatto born in Saint Domingue, who was first sold by his white father, then bought back and brought to France to be educated and recognized as a legitimate son.

Thomas-Alexandre Dumas took on the name Dumas from his mother’s nickname at the time that he enlisted in Napoleon’s army (his father didn’t want him besmirching his own name). Thomas-Alexandre rose in Napoleon’s army to become a General, the highest rank held by any black man in any European army.

Alexandre Dumas was not a military man like his father, but he rose in the ranks of the literary world. Today, Dumas is one of the most revered and famous French writers from the 19th century. In his own day, he was an internationally bestselling writer despite the racism and prejudice he faced. Dumas didn’t often write about race, but once when someone mocked his ancestry, he famously replied :

“My father was a mulatto, my grandfather was a negro, and my great-grandfather was a monkey. You see, sir, my family starts where yours ends.”

Like his British contemporary Charles Dickens , Dumas was a serial author, meaning his works were not published all at once but chapter by chapter. Readers had to wait weeks or months for the next part of the story, much like waiting for TV episodes to drop nowadays.

The Count of Monte Cristo was published piece-by-piece in mass-circulation newspapers from 1844 to 1846. Dumas was simultaneously working on another piece of fiction of which you may have heard, detailing the exploits of D’Artagnan, Porthos, Athos, and Aramis (yes, Dumas is also the author of The Three Musketeers ).

Related: Another novel by Alexandre Dumas, The Three Musketeers , is one of my top picks for easy classics to read for beginners.

The Count of Monte Cristo : a quick overview

In brief, here’s the plot of The Count of Monte Cristo: it tells the story of Edmond Dantès, a lowly sailor who was about to get everything he ever wanted: to become captain of a ship, and to marry the woman he loves, Mercedes.

On the cusp of happiness, it is all snatched away when Dantès is wrongfully imprisoned at the Chateau d’If under charges of treason: accused of being a radical Bonapartist and assisting Napoleon’s escape from Elba, Dantès is subjected to a life sentence without trial.

You may imagine, this didn’t make him terribly happy.

During his 14 years in solitary confinement in the dungeons of the Chateau d’If, Dantès accidentally meets another prisoner, Abbé Faria. The two prisoners secretly maintain a passage through the rock between their cells. The Italian priest Farria changes Dantès’s life forever, educating him in languages, history, culture, and religion. Most importantly, Farria tells Dantès how to find a treasure he himself had once hoped to claim on the island of Monte Cristo.

“He was no longer going to be alone, he might perhaps even be free. The worst case, should he remain a prisoner, was to have a companion: captivity shared is only semi-captivity. Sighs united together are almost prayers; prayers coming from two hearts are almost acts of grace.” Quote from The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas

After 14 years at the Chateau d’If, Dantès escapes from the island prison, travels to the island of Monte Cristo, claims the treasure, assumes a new identity (well, a few actually), and sets out to dedicate the rest of his life to seeking revenge on those responsible for ruining his life when happiness had been within reach.

Many people are scared off from reading this masterpiece of French literature when they Google the Count of Monte Cristo page count (it’s 1,200-1,400 pages, by the way, depending on which edition you read). But The Count of Monte Cristo is a classic for a reason; it’s a rich, thrilling, poetic story of humanity, friendship, love, despair, faith, and revenge.

Published serially between 1844 to 1846, The Count of Monte Cristo was then translated into 20 languages and became the first internationally bestselling book. It was so popular that Dumas himself adapted the story of Edmond Dantès into a two-part stage play.

“Dantès went through all the stages of misery endured by prisoners who are left entombed in prison. He started with pride, which is the product of hope and the knowledge of one’s innocence. Then he came to doubt his own innocence, which did a great deal to justify the governor’s idea of mental derangement. Finally, he fell from the summit of his pride and prayed, not to God, but to men; God is the last refuge.” Quote from The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas

Visiting Chateau d’If, the Count of Monte Cristo Prison

“The point towards which the boat appeared to be heading: some two hundred yards in front of them loomed the sheer black rock from which, like a flinty excrescence, rises the Chateau d’If.”

Alexandre Dumas was well aware of the Chateau d’If and its reputation when he condemned Dantès to his life sentence there. Dumas visited the Chateau d’If in 1834, 8 years before the publication of his novel. The prison was notorious for its unsanitary living conditions and was a symbol of doom and despair.

Dumas did take a lot of creative liberties in his depiction of the prison, so don’t be surprised when the descriptions in the novel do not exactly match what the prison looks like on your visit. Still, those who run the Chateau d’If have taken pains to make the experience as much like The Count of Monte Cristo as possible.

This is a unique case in which a real location inspired a fictional novel, a novel that attained such fame for the location that it adapted itself to match the fictional novel. Do you follow?

Coincidentally, I visited the Chateau d’If on March 3, only one day after the anniversary of Dantès’s fictional imprisonment there, which began on March 2, 1815. Thankfully, my experience was much more like Dantès’s return to this island near the end of the novel than it was like his first trip to the island:

“Despite the clear sky and the finely shaped ships, despite the golden light flooding the scene, the count, wrapped in his cloak, recalled one by one all the details of the dreadful journey: the lone light burning in Les Catalans, the sight of the Chateau d’If that told him where he was being taken, the struggle with the gendarmes when he tried to jump into the water, his despair when he felt himself overcome, and the cold touch of the muzzle of the carbine pressed into his temple like a ring of ice.” Monte Cristo’s return to the Chateau d’If

Where is the Count of Monte Cristo prison?

The Chateau d’If prison is on an island located just 4 km off the coast of Marseille in Southern France. It is on the smallest of the four islands that make up the Frioul archipelago.

The Chateau d’If casts a beautiful if formidable vision: a white fortress perched atop an island of white limestone, contrasting with the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is within sight of Marseille without being accessible by swimming, making it a brilliantly cruel location for a prison, much like the island prison of Alcatraz in San Francisco .

The Frioul archipelago islands are actually part of France’s Calanques National Park (a stunning place that I absolutely recommend spending more time seeing while you’re in Marseille).

Related: Spending more time in France? Check out these amazing Paris bookshops you shouldn’t miss on your trip to the City of Love.

How to get to Chateau d’If

To get to Chateau d’If, you will need to take a ferry boat out to the island. There are two ferry companies that offer passage to the Count of Monte Cristo prison: Le Bateau Frioul If Express Shuttles , and Croisières Marseille Calanques .

Both companies offer round-trip boat tickets multiple times throughout the day, and tickets with both companies cost between 11-12 euros. Note that this is a separate expense from the entrance ticket to Chateau d’If.

Check the ferry timetables on their respective websites linked above, and you can either pre-purchase your ticket online or purchase it in person at the Vieux Port. They are located on opposite, inland corners of the Vieux Port.

The ferry from Marseille to Chateau d’If takes about 25 minutes one way. Note that the return ferries with le bateau make a stop at another island on the return journey, making the return time closer to 50 minutes.

By plane: The nearest airport to Chateau d’If is the Marseille Provence Airport (MRS). If you want to go directly to Chateau d’If from the airport, take the L091 bus from the airport to the Gare Saint-Charles (about 30 minutes), then either take the M1 metro to Vieux Port (3 minutes) or walk about 15 minutes to the Vieux Port.

By train: If you’re coming from Paris, you can take a 3.5-hour train ride directly from Paris Gare de Lyon to Gare Saint-Charles in Marseille, then take the M1 to Vieux Port or walk there in 15 minutes. Check for train times on Omio , my go-to app for public transportation information.

What can you see at Chateau d’If?

Most visitors come to Chateau d’If because they know it as the Count of Monte Cristo prison, so the displays inside are heavily skewed toward this classic novel (no complaints from this literary travel lover).

Inside the Chateau d’If, you’ll see multiple displays telling more about the life of 19th century French writer Alexandre Dumas and his famous work as well as how it has influenced the history of the prison and its status as a tourist destination today.

Visitors can also go inside cells named after Edmond Dantès and Abbé Faria.

Edmond Dantès is a fictional character invented by Alexandre Dumas, so this is not his cell in any historical sense. As for the Abbe Farria, he was inspired by an actual prisoner of Chateau d’If, José Faria, one of the pioneers of hypnotism. While there was a real prisoner who shared Farria’s name, the cell you will visit at Chateau d’If is not his actual cell.

The cells named after these literary characters are adapted to bring the novel to life, to plunge visitors into the Chateau d’If of the novel, much like Heididorf in Switzerland recreates Heidi’s fictional world, and the Sherlock Holmes museum does the same in London.

In the novel The Count of Monte Cristo , the two prisoners’ cells are in the dungeons, the worst cells reserved for those whom the governors deem “mad.” At the real Chateau d’If, they have converted rooms on the main floor for the ease of visitors, even if it isn’t exactly the accurate location where Dantès and Farria would have been held.

The cells are mostly bare, but in Dantès’s cell, you’ll see some sparse sleeping things, his bowl, a prisoner’s ball and chain, and, of most interest, a hole dug into the wall that connects to the Abbé’s cell. You’ll also see some excerpts from one of the film adaptations playing on a small TV screen.

“Dantes was crouching in a corner of the dungeon where he had the unspeakable happiness of enjoying the thin ray of daylight that filtered through the bars of a narrow window; hearing the grating of the massive locks and the screech of the rusty doorpost turning in its socket, he looked up.” Quote from The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas

You can also climb a series of narrow, spiral staircases and come out on top of the prison roof for some incredible panoramic views of Marseille and the French coast. With blue skies and sea birds soaring overhead, the silhouette of Notre-Dame de la Garde, this view is a highlight of the visit to Chateau d’If.

There is a gift shop inside the Chateau d’If that sells copies of The Count of Monte Cristo in French and English. Happily, all of these editions are stamped with a Chateau d’If stamp, making this an ideal souvenir from this literary destination.

Tips for visiting Chateau d’If

Tips for taking the boat to Chateau d’If:

Don’t pre-purchase your boat ticket. This is a personal opinion, of course, but there’s really no need to buy it in advance, and doing so may make your plans more complicated if the boats aren’t running on schedule or if your plans change. My advice is to arrive at least 30 minutes prior to the scheduled departure and purchase your ticket at the stand.

Understand that the boats have to travel into the open sea and dock at a small island, so the schedule is incredibly weather-dependent . Even if it is a beautiful day on shore, winds may affect the waves near the island, and the boats may not run, or may run on an adjusted schedule. This is another main reason to not pre-book your ticket, because then you’re stuck with a ticket you can’t use or you’re hassling, trying to get a refund.

On a related note, if one boat company isn’t operating on the day you visit, check with both boat companies . On the day that I visited, one company had already posted a sign in the morning that they would not be doing any trips to the Chateau d’If due to waves. They told me the other company had likely decided the same, but when I walked over to their booth to double-check, the other company said they were going to run a trial trip out to the island, so there was still a chance they’d be able to take visitors.

I braved this trial trip, and I was rewarded by getting to be one of the first visitors to the island that day, once they determined the conditions safe enough to dock.

If you’re prone to motion sickness and/or sea sickness, be ready with Dramamine . I do get seasick, so I purchased some over-the-counter sea sickness medication at one of the pharmacies located near Vieux Port, took it 30 minutes prior to departure, and did just fine on the boat.

Timing of your visit:

The ferries tend to depart back to Marseille approximately an hour after drop-off on the island. This hour is just enough time at Chateau d’If if you are moving pretty quickly. If you want to spend more time exploring the prison and the island with its unique flora, you will likely need to wait for the next boat and spend a minimum of two hours there.

For most visitors, an hour should be sufficient, but you definitely won’t have time to dawdle.

On the island:

The placards inside are written in both French and English, but there are also free pamphlets in many more languages giving information about the prison and its literary history, so grab one as you leave the ticket counter.

Chateau d’If opening hours and ticket prices

Main season:

1 April – 30 September. Open daily from 10:30 am – 6 pm

Off season:

1 October – 31 March. Open Tues-Sun from 10:30 am – 5:15 pm

General admission costs 6€ (not including the boat fare, which is paid separately)

As always, double-check that opening hours have not changed on the official website . Also, be aware that openings are frequently impacted by sea conditions. If the ferry companies decide they can’t safely dock and unload passengers at Chateau d’If, the monument will not open.

Travel tip: My favorite travel rewards credit card for European travel is the Chase Sapphire Reserve card (I also use the Amex Platinum, but Amex is not widely accepted in Europe). Perks of the Chase Sapphire include access to airport travel lounges, a $300 annual travel credit, free TSA PreCheck or Global Entry, and built-in travel insurance. Points are also worth 50% more when you redeem them for travel.

Where to stay near Chateau d’If

Especially if you are traveling during peak season, it’s possible to stay in Marseille city center very affordably. The ferries that take you to Chateau d’If depart from Marseille’s old port or Vieux Port, so if Chateau d’If is going to feature in your trip, consider finding a hotel within walking distance of Vieux Port.

As you look for somewhere to stay, I recommend checking for lodging on Hotels.com . I almost always book my accommodations through Hotels.com , because you can earn rewards for every night you stay without having to choose only one hotel chain to be loyal to. You can even book locally owned apart hotels and bed and breakfasts.

If you’re looking for privately owned vacation rentals, I recommend checking VRBO. I’ve personally had much better experiences with their owners and rentals than I have with their primary competitor.

Travel Resources At-A-Glance

All of the following are links to sites and services I actually use to book and plan my travel or to purchase books or travel gear.

For flights : Skyscanner is my number one go-to resource for booking flights. I love using the “explore” function to find the cheapest places I can fly during a given time or using the fare calendar to identify the cheapest days to fly.

For hotels and lodgings : For hotels, hotels.com , and for vacation rentals, VRBO.com . I’ve had much better experiences with private rentals through this website than through other popular private vacation rental websites.

For car rentals : Kayak allows comparisons across a wide range of booking agencies and lists reviews of companies as well. I’ve found this to be the most user-friendly and efficient way to compare car rental prices.

For tours & excursions : Viator and Get Your Guide are my top choices for booking excursions and tour experiences in a new destination.

For travel gear : Amazon.com and REI for more outdoorsy items. Check out my travel gear recs here.

For booking trains & buses : I find the Omio app and website to be the most easily navigable for comparing options for public transportation, especially in Europe,

Best travel credit card : My favorite travel rewards credit card for European travel has been the Chase Sapphire Rewards card . Visa is accepted just about everywhere in Europe, and there are no foreign transaction fees on the card. Some of the travel benefits I love on the Chase Sapphire include free TSA pre-check or Global Entry (worth it every time), an annual $200 travel credit, an annual $200 hotel benefit, built-in rental car, and trip insurance, and points are worth 50% more when used to book travel. I travel around Europe a LOT, and I end up with many free flights and hotel stays from using my points on my Chase Sapphire.

For books : Bookshop.org often has prices as good as Amazon or sometimes better, but profits go to indie bookstores all over the country. Whenever possible, consider buying your books from this online indie bookshop resource.

I hope this information helps you plan your visit to the literary travel destination, the Count of Monte Cristo prison, or the Chateau d’If.

What other literary locations are on your bucket list?

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I'm Constance, an avid reader and traveler. I love tracking down the best literary sights everywhere I go, from the best indie bookstores to author's homes and fictional locations you can visit in real life. I'm also passionate about all things tea and chocolate. I have a BA in English literature and an MS in Nutrition Science.

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The islands of Frioul and 'Château d'If'

• Discover Marseille
• Calanques, beaches and nature
• The Calanques of Marseille
• Which calanques to discover?
• The Calanques National Park
• The islands of Frioul and ‘Château d’If’ (If Castle)

Jump on a boat for a trip to the islands of Frioul or ‘Château d’If’ (If castle). It is a chance to discover the local fauna and flora and part of the city’s history.

To discover more of Marseille than the ‘Vieux-Port’ or the Mucem museum, go aboard and escape to the islands to enjoy the crystal clear waters and the seabed, but also to explore the many remnants left across the archipelago. Located in the Calanques National Park , they are part of the European network of protected areas called Natura 2,000. One of the main reasons to visit the Frioul archipelago is its landscape with small sandy beaches and many beautiful creeks.

The ‘Château d’If ‘: a fortress facing Marseille

In 1516, king Francis the 1st of France had the idea to build a fortress on the island ‘île d’If’ during a visit to Marseille. The building soon became a prison as its isolated location made it more difficult to escape. José Custodio Faria, made famous by Alexandre Dumas’ novel ‘The Count of Monte-Cristo’, was a famous prisoner there. The site is full of ‘little stories’, such as the famous hole dug on the wall by Edmond Dantès when he escaped. The fortress ended up sheltering the rebels of 1848 and the ‘communards’ of 1871. It stopped being used as a prison when it opened to the public in 1890.

 ‘Îles du Frioul’, another way to visit Marseille

Facing Marseille, the Frioul archipelago is made of four islands: Pomègue, Ratonneau, Tiboulen, and If. The dry climate around the archipelago has favoured the appearance of a rare, sometimes endemic flora. The island’s fauna consists of sea birds such as the yellow-legged gull, also called “gabian” by the locals.

The islands belong to the city of Marseille since 1971. The Port-Frioul village expanded together with the port which now holds 700 moorings. A few businesses also opened doors, with restaurants and a few shops. The aquafarm on the Pomègue island farms bass and gilt-head bream.

Did you know?

Each year in June, a race called the Monte-Cristo challenge which started in 1999 gathers around 800 swimmers who compete to swim across to the ‘Château d’If’ the fastest!

• Learn more about the Monte Cristo challenge

This 2,5 km island has a rugged landscape offering breathtaking views. The rocks and vegetation have been sculpted by the seaspray, creating extraordinary shapes in some areas. The easy walking trail starts at the end of the Berry seawall and ends at the Cavaux military fortification. It is marked with geology, vegetation, and fauna signs all along its length. It will take you 45 minutes to walk the trail where you will feel at the end of the world, lost in wild vegetation away from any civilisation. The aquafarm is located in a natural shelter which was used as a quarantine port in the 17th century.

All weapons have been removed from the fort and the semaphore but, together with the old military fortification, they are the testimony of a troubled military past.

The best time to explore the area is between April and June when the sun shines but is not too hot, flowers bloom and colour the rocks with pink, yellow and purple. But it is also the nesting and post-nesting time for the seagulls. You should better not wander off the path as these big birds can try to intimidate you to protect their nest.

Intrepid swimmers will be ready to walk further and reach small isolated creaks to swim in freshwater.

• More about hiking in Pomegues

Ratonneau island is not as wild as Pomègues but equally interesting and better suited for walks and swims with children. The 2.7 km long island can be explored by foot, cycling, or onboard a little train in the summer. About 100 residents live on the island, sometimes defying the weather on the ferry to reach Marseille city center. Protective of their way of life, they welcome visitors with open arms nonetheless organising social events such as walking races, painters’ shows, and more. Small shops, bars, and restaurants bring the village alive in high season, together with pleasure sailors who stop by to rig their ship or have lunch.

In the summer season, the ferry increases its operating hours and also operates at night.

A small chapel resembling an antique temple overlooks the port and the village. It was erected for sailors whose boats were quarantined, to enable them to attend church services. The holiday resort Léo Lagrange is the only one on the archipelago. It welcomes groups, schools on seaside trips, sports camps, and family gatherings between March and November.

The trail leading to Saint-Estève beach and Caroline hospital goes on to the ‘Maison des Pilotes’ (Pilots’ House). This building shaped in a ship’s bow is home to the pilots of the ‘Grand Port Maritime de Marseille’ (Marseille’s maritime port). Experienced sailors are responsible for piloting ships to the docks in place of the captain. The ‘Maison des Pilotes’ staged the famous French movie ‘Marie-Jo et ses deux amours’.

Saint Estève beach is accessible by a 30 minutes walk from the pier. It is the only real beach of the Frioul islands with turquoise waters, sheltering an underwater pathway flagged with five buoys, where you can discover the local fauna and flora. The beach is supervised in the summer months and you will find showers, toilets, and a small cafe.

‘Tiboulen de Ratonneau’

Scuba dive lovers know this small island, West of Ratonneau. Underwater features, currents, and the fact that the archipelago is sheltered from eastern wind all contribute to a wide diversity of fauna and flora. Nearby, slightly deeper, the wreckage of a WW2 German bomber also attracts experienced divers.

• More about hiking in Ratonneau

Caroline hospital: the remains of a quarantine hospital

On the Frioul island, discover a unique location: a 19th-century lazaretto.

The archipelago has always been a port of call for Mediterranean sailors. Whether it be warriors or adventurers, their sanitary know-how has played a huge part in the protection of the Phocaean city. This is the reason why the architect Michel-Robert Penchaud built the Caroline hospital on the Ratonneau island at the beginning of the 19th century, in order to treat the patients infected with yellow fever. Partially destroyed when Marseille was freed, it was abandoned until 1971, when it was bought by Marseille Council.

Practical information

How to get to the islands of Frioul and the ‘Château d’If’?

Ferry crossings provide a seven days a week service to the Frioul archipelago.

Careful: the ‘Château d’If’ is closed on Mondays.

Regular departure from ‘Vieux Port’. Weather dependant. Crossing times and more information here

Worth knowing: Waste separation is essential. It’s quick and easy. Please follow the instructions. To find out more

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Château d'If

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Château d'If is a 16th-century fortress, commissioned by King Francois I, set atop the smallest island in the Frioul archipelago less than a mile from Marseille. It was later used as a prison, considered ideal for its isolated, escape-proof location (similar to San Francisco 's Alcatraz ). Visitors to Marseille often travel by boat to this beautiful and mysterious monument, especially since it inspired the prison setting of Alexandre Dumas' famous book, "The Count of Monte Cristo." 

Once on the island, visitors are free to wander Château d'If at their leisure. Recent travelers described the experience as interesting, both for the ancient history exhibited here, as well as for the stellar views of the bay and Marseille in the distance. Since the island boasts only one outdoor cafe, some wish that there was more in the way of eateries or gift shops – even as a place to shelter from the cold winds of the island and kill time before boarding the ferry back to the city. 

To reach Château d'If, many travelers hop aboard a Frioul If Express shuttle boat from Marseille's Vieux Port . A round-trip boat ticket costs 10.80 euros (about $12.80) per person, though for families of four or more it costs 8.10 euros (about $9.60) per person. Kids younger than 4 ride for free. Keep in mind that entrance to the fortress costs extra – 6 euros (around $7). Château d'If is open every day except Monday, from Jan. 2 to April 1 and from Oct. 2 to Dec. 31, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. From April 2 to Sept. 30, it's open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Visitors can also take a 90-minute self-guided tour of Château d'If, or if scheduled in advance, a 30-minute guided tour. If you purchased a City-Pass, your admission is covered. For more information on facilities and services, visit the monument's website .

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The History Hit Miscellany of Facts, Figures and Fascinating Finds

Château d’If

Marseille, Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur, France

Chateau d’If was a sixteenth century island fortress turned notorious prison.

24 Nov 2020

@histluketomes.

About Château d’If

Château d’If is a fortress and former prison located on the Île d’If, the smallest island in the Frioul archipelago, situated offshore from Marseille in France.

Château d’If history

Île d’If (Island of Yew Trees) is a tiny, three hectare island in the Bay of Marseille and the Chateau d’If has been described as France’s answer to Alcatraz. It was built in 1524 on the orders of King Francis I who wanted to defend the mainland from potential water-based onslaughts although it never actually had to dispel an advance. Holy Roman Emperor Charles V prepared an attack on Marseille in July 1531 but abandoned his plan soon after.

The fortress soon became a virtually inescapable prison due to its location and the fast-moving currents that rendered even the strongest swimmers unable to make the 1,500m swim. Described as a dumping ground for political and religious prisoners (including 3,500 Huguenots) as well as murderers, rapists and thieves and conditions were renowned as some of the most harsh and brutal in all of France. The prison did retribution, not rehabilitation and prisoners, many of whom were chained to the walls died of neglect and subsequent insanity.

Famous inmates included Louis Philippe II, Duke of Orléans who was known as Philippe Égalité, early French Revolution leader and renowned ladies’ man Honoré Gabriel Riqueti, Comte de Mirabeau and Paris Commune leader Gaston Crémieux who was executed by firing squad there in 1871.

One inmate who is often quoted – wrongly – as spending time at Château d’If was the mysterious Man in the Iron Mask, possibly an Italian nobleman, possibly, Philippe, the illegitimate brother of King Louis XIV or possibly a prisoner called Eustache Dauger but even today, his true identity stays a mystery.

Chateau d’If was a notorious prison in its own right but it became world famous with the publication of Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo’ in 1844. It’s the tale of sailor Edmond Dantès who was wrongly accused of treason and spent 14 years at Château d’If before a daring yet ultimately successful escape.

The prison was demilitarised and closed on September 23rd 1890 and due to its infamy as a famous prison and also as the setting for one of literature’s great novels, the museum attracts thousands of visitors every year with tours culminating in the cell named after Dantès with a small fissure in the wall from where he was said to have escaped.

Château d’If today

Today, the Château is still in operation, but only as a tourist attraction. People from all over the world visit and explore the famous prison that served as the setting for a beloved work of fiction and thousands of unlucky prisoners. The ex-prison is listed as a ‘monument historique’ by the French Ministry of Culture.

Guided tours of the prison are available, however make sure you book a visit at least a week in advance. The average duration of a visit is 1 hr 30 min including the tour of the island and two crossings (20 mins. each)

Getting to Château d’If

The famous fortress Château d´If is standing on a rocky island off the coast of Marseille (the second largest city in France). It’s reachable by boat from The Old Port (Vieux Port) with ferries running to and fro every hour.

The cruise to the fortress takes about 20 minutes. The boat trip there provides visitors with a beautiful view of the Marseille harbour. The return cruise lasts a bit longer because the ferry takes the visitors to the Frioul Islands.

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• A Brief History Of Chateau...

A Brief History of Château d’If, France's Island Prison

Château d’If is an old island prison off the coast of Marseille . It was made legendary by Alexandre Dumas in his classic novel, The Count of Monte Cristo . It’s where his hero was wrongly imprisoned for years. Here’s our guide to the history behind this amazing monument, how to get there and what to do.

The island of If is a very small island – only three hectares in size. It’s part of a small archipelago that includes the larger island of Frioul, which is a wonderful nature reserve and home to a little fishing community.

The fortress is the only thing that has ever been built on the island of If. King Francis visited the island in 1516 and realised that it was an ideal place to build a fort to protect Marseille from an attack.

Construction began in 1524 and finished in 1531. It has three storeys, built in the shape of a square (28 metres long) protected by towers, with cover for archers and guns.

It looks imposing and acted as a deterrent, but it never actually had to play a part in defending Marseille against a military attack – which is probably a good thing. The fort wasn’t well-designed; it was built with a lot of mistakes and might have been easy to capture and/or destroy.

https://instagram.com/p/BSyFH8GBvIl/

By the 1800s, it was clear that there wasn’t a military role for the fortress to play in defending France. It was an ideal place to use as a prison though, primarily because of the fact it was an island and difficult to escape from. There are fast currents that run through the surrounding waters, which acted as a deterrent, very similar to the island prison of Alcatraz , in San Francisco .

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Throughout the 1800s, until the prison’s closure in 1890, thousands of political prisoners were housed here. In keeping with the time, poorer prisoners were kept in the worst conditions – in dungeons on the lower floor, full of people, hunger and disease – whilst the richer prisoners were allowed to pay for better cells on the upper floors, complete with fireplaces and proper beds. 3,500 French Protestants were put in prison here, as well as several political prisoners. Their etchings on the bricks can still be seen today.

Napoleon also kept the body of Republican Jean-Baptiste Kléber at the Château for many years, after his assassination in Cairo, because he was afraid that giving Kléber a martyr’s funeral would undermine his own power.

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But perhaps the castle is most well-known for its literary role in Dumas’ classic, The Count of Monte Cristo . It was published in the 1840s and was an instant bestseller. It tells the story of young Frenchman, Edmond Dantès, who is on course to marry his true love and live happily ever after. But he’s betrayed by two men and imprisoned on If for 14 years, before he makes a daring escape. He goes in search of some treasure he has heard about, and gets his revenge on the two men.

It’s still a hugely popular book, discussing how life can change for the worse at a moment’s notice: “On what slender threads do life and fortune hang!”In real life, no one is ever known to have successfully escaped from the prison.

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Take the time to visit both Château d’If and the neighbouring island of Frioul in the same day. Either take a picnic or eat at one of the harbour restaurants in Frioul. The paths and stone can be hard-going on the feet, so take practical footwear and lots of water in summer. You can swim on the island of Frioul, so don’t forget your towels, swimwear and suncream.

How to get there: Ferries leave from the Old Port in Marseille to the island of Frioul, stopping at Château d’If on the way. Not all the ferries stop at the fortress so make sure you check beforehand.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 5pm (6pm from April to October). Closed Mondays.

Château d’If, Marseille

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Shuttle Château d'If and the Frioul Islands

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Single trip  Outward or Return Crossing – Price per person: €5,70

Calanque of Saint Esteve

Return journey 1 island  Old Port – Frioul Island OR Old Port – If Island: – Full price per person: €11,10, this price does not include entry to the Château d'If. – CMUC beneficiary (Frioul only – on presentation of a transport card loaded with CMUC rights): €5,50 – Evening rate (applicable from 01/07 to 30/09) from 19 p.m. only for departures from the Old Port: €5,60 – For Permanent or Annual subscribers (integral, metropolitan or RTM network): €8,30

Return trip combined 2 islands  Old Port – If Island PLUS Frioul Island -Full “combined” price per person: €16,70, this price does not include entry to the Château d'If. -For Permanent or Annual subscribers (integral, metropolitan or RTM network): €12,50

Access to the island of If is chargeable (adult rate: €6, free for 26-year-olds from the EU) – purchase of tickets on site). Frioul If is a partner of the City Pass Marseille as well as the Château d'If

The methods of payment accepted are: cash (denominations greater than €50 are not accepted) and bank card (VISA or MasterCard). Checks are no longer accepted. Frioul If is a partner of  Marseille City Pass.  You can order your tickets online up to 24 hours in advance on the site  lebateau-frioul-if.fr (except for the crossing towards the Château d'If).

The fleet of ships linked to the names of 3 Marseille figures

Paul was seriously injured during several of his fights, which did not prevent his progress and his exceptional success until 1666. Affected by illness, he retired to Toulon where he died on December 20, 1667. Read her full biography

Also author of the "Three Musketeers", Alexandre Dumas has signed great works. He died on December 5, 1870. His body was transferred to the Panthéon in Paris in 2002. His son, also named Alexandre Dumas, was also a writer, author in particular of "La Dame aux Camélias".

1856: Oversaw the construction of the Major and draw the west facade 1862 – 1869: The Longchamp Palace 1864 – 1869: The Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde

Two months before his death, he made his will and bequeathed his entire fortune to a charity “the rest home for former indigent building workers”, built at his own expense on the heights of Roucas-Blanc. The building, called by local residents “La maison Espérandieu”, was destroyed in 1942.

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History of the château d'If

No, really – both! Obviously, the château d'If is inextricably linked with The Count of Monte Cristo. That’s the main reason why most people come to visit. But before becoming the iconic setting for Alexandre Dumas’ novel, Marseille’s fortress already had a history.

The castle's origins

Guardian of the western entrance to the kingdom of france.

The little island of If was known in ancient times, but was rarely mentioned before the 16th century. In the 14th century, Queen Joanna of Naples, countess of Provence, granted it to Arnaud de Montolieu in fief, at which point it was found to be teeming with game! 

During one of the less glorious periods in the history of Marseille, the island served the Aragonese as a site for festivities and celebrations when they sacked the city in 1423. 

But in 1481 all that was to change. Having no direct heirs, the House of Anjou ceded Marseille and Provence to the French king, which was a godsend for the French monarchy, as Marseille was the biggest Mediterranean port for ships sailing to the Levant. A strategy to defend the coast was quickly put in place, and, in 1516, Francis I of France decided to build the château d'If.

© Antoinette Gorioux / CMN

Once a fortress, now a prison

But the people of Marseille, who were not ready to give up the rights they had held since the Middle Ages, had to be called to task. They were unwilling to build this fortress, calling it “la Malvoisine”, or “bad neighbour”: for them, clearly, the authority and presence of French kings were of far less importance than those of long gone counts. 1531: nevertheless, the castle was finally finished. 

In 1536, Francis I’s great enemy, Charles V, who was both Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain, prepared to take Marseille. The Château d’If did exactly what it was supposed to do and even acted as a deterrent: the maritime attack was promptly rebuffed and Charles V tried to mount a land-based attack instead. In vain. The Château soon started being used as an “occasional” prison. It was like Marseille’s answer to Alcatraz, ahead of its time!

From reality to fiction

Highly variable conditions of detention.

Château d’If was an “occasional” prison, that is, it was only used to detain prisoners in special circumstances, such as during a revolution or quite simply when all the prisons in Marseille were splitting at the seams. The image that we have of this prison was created once and for all by The Count of Monte Cristo . But stay with us and you can find out more !

The harshest conditions reigned in the windowless dungeons under the castle. They were filthy, dark, damp and teeming with vermin: prisoners rarely survived more than a few weeks. The ground floor was allocated to collective prisons, where the conditions were slightly better: there was more light and a water-tank in the yard meant that prisoners could drink and wash. But this didn’t stop them being overcrowded. Lastly, on the first floor, were the “pistoles”, or private cells, which were a far cry from the picture drawn by Edmond Dantès. Formerly the lodgings of officers stationed at the garrison, these individual cells meant that the richest prisoners could make their conditions much more pleasant – in exchange for hard cash.

Famous and not so famous prisoners!

From the Chevalier Anselme, a knight who was incarcerated in 1580 for plotting against the monarchy, to German prisoners during the First World War, this is a whole period of French history playing out before your very eyes. You’ll see what happened to Huguenots when protestant worship was made illegal, and to the revolutionaries of 1848, who left numerous traces of their incarceration in the form of graffiti in the yard. 

You’ll discover why Mirabeau was imprisoned here for a few months and why Napoleon wanted Général Kléber’s body to be kept there. And it goes without saying that you’ll find out all about the genesis and finer details of one of the greatest literary successes the world has ever known, The Count of Monte Cristo . You’ll know all there is to know about Edmond Dantes and that other famous prisoner, Abbé Faria!

© Juliette Ripart / CMN

From the late 19th century to the present day

Although it was not officially opened to the public until 1880, the Château had its first unofficial visitors some 40 years earlier, when Alexandre Dumas’ novel was published. A few facilities were provided for visitors, including a refreshments stall above the quay and a cafe-restaurant in the former barracks. Despite its new status as a historic monument since 1926 and the addition of a new landing stage, access to the château is still a problem during rough seas. 

In 1994, the French Ministry of Defence finally gave the site to the Ministry of Culture, who entrusted its management to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. The whole island of If became part of the Parc National des Calanques national park when it was first created.

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