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This Mexico Hot Spot Was Just Named the Best City in the World by T+L Readers — Here's How to Plan the Perfect Trip

Oaxaca is the No. 1 city in the world, according to T+L readers. Here is a rundown of the best things to do.

oaxaca travel tips

The Best Hotels and Resorts

Best things to do, best shopping, best restaurants, best times to visit, how to get there, how to get around.

Stephanie Pollak/Travel + Leisure

Boasting an endless supply of mezcal and mole, Oaxaca de Juárez is undoubtedly one of the ultimate food and drink destinations on the planet. So, it's perhaps no surprise that in Travel + Leisure's 2023 World's Best Awards , it was named the best city in the world . (The city is commonly referred to as Oaxaca, but shouldn't be confused with the eponymous state it's a part of.)

This dynamic city in southwestern Mexico is home to vibrant culture, beautiful weather, and some of the country's most iconic architecture. "The most remarkable thing about Oaxaca is the deep presence of this pre-Colombian culture in all aspects of contemporary life — the mingling and mixing of Indigenous, Spanish, and contemporary Mexican influences are unique and unforgettable," said Zachary Rabinor , a member of T+L's A-List of travel advisors and the CEO of Journey Mexico .

You could spend several weeks here and not even scratch the surface — if you weren't planning correctly, that is. "Oaxaca is a quintessential and magical destination that combines culture, nature, and adventure, with a year-round spring-like climate due to its idyllic location nestled into a fertile valley of the Sierra Madre Sur Mountains," Rabinor said. "It offers a charming, pedestrian-friendly UNESCO World Heritage Site City Center with impressive architecture, museums, markets, restaurants, shopping, and nightlife, while the surrounding valleys harbor incredible Indigenous villages that conserve century-old artisan traditions, dress, language, culture, and lifestyles."

To that end, we've compiled a list of the best things to do, see, and sip while exploring this exciting part of the world.

Oaxaca features all manner of lodging, ranging from unassuming bed-and-breakfasts to historic converted convents, all the way up to the most opulent and palatial of modern luxury. You'll find a little bit of each in this city.

Hotel Casa Santo Origen

If you're not afraid to spend a few hundred per night, you can enjoy the modern boutique beauty of Hotel Casa Santo Origen . Just 15 minutes from the city center, each of the eight suites in this small hotel is named after a unique region of the state of Oaxaca, and decorated with local art.

Book Now: Hotels.com | Expedia | Trip Advisor

Quinta Real Oaxaca

If you want something more old-fashioned, check in at Quinta Real Oaxaca — a 16th-century nunnery retaining a thorough throwback charm without sacrificing modern amenities. The property boasts views of courtyards and the streets of Oaxaca and even has an idyllic garden pool.

Casa Silencio

If you'd prefer to stay in the heart of mezcal country, you'll want to book your stay at the stunning Casa Silencio , which is about an hour outside of Oaxaca. This upscale shrine to agave features multilevel guest rooms, a spa, and Michelin-caliber cuisine and mixology. And, oh yes, a working distillery pumping out the native liquid.

Downtown Oaxaca

Within Oaxaca, Rabinor said taking a day to leisurely explore the city center and downtown is the way to go. "Take your time strolling through the market and be sure to try  pan de yema con chocolate ," Rabinor said. "Find a spot in one of the many plazas and enjoy people-watching, as it's not uncommon to witness a colorful calenda (street procession) happening at any time of the week. These processions are part of the numerous festivals that celebrate various personal and communal events in the lives of the local community."

Hierve el Agua

When it's time for sightseeing beyond the city, one of the top natural wonders to explore is Hierve el Agua . These calcareous rock formations in San Lorenzo Albarradas look as if a waterfall has been frozen to the side of a cliff. Established hiking paths bring you right up to the cascade's edge. If you're looking to take a dip in the human-made pools, aim to get there early to avoid crowds.

Susmita Baral/Travel + Leisure

Monte Albán

Perched atop a 1,300-foot tall plateau, Monte Albán is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing a well-preserved terraced pyramid and other pre-Columbian cultural artifacts. Much of what you'll explore here was built by the Zapotecs, an Indigenous people who are thought to have settled in the region as early as 800 B.C.E. It is the second-largest ceremonial site in all of Central America. "Monte Albán is not only a treasure of ancient history, but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site that holds significant importance in understanding the cultural heritage of Oaxaca and the surrounding region," Rabinor told T+L.

Mezcal Experiences

Mezcal is a distilled agave spirit traditional to the Oaxacan region. It has been made here for centuries using techniques that have largely resisted the prying hands of modern machination. Whether you drink or don't, a mezcal experience is an enriching experience. Rabinor noted that it supports local communities that rely on the industry, helps people "understand the hard work and history that goes behind producing [mezcal], and lets travelers 'learn and appreciate one of the world’s most complex spirits.'" Running down the many palenques — farm distilleries — where it is made and the enchanting sipping parlors where it is served would require an entirely separate article. ( In fact, this is a good one right here. ) But assuming you're starting your liquid journey in the city of Oaxaca, these are four tasting opportunities you should not skip over: Mezcalería In Situ for a broad collection of bottles and emphasis on education; El Distilado to enjoy how mezcal pairs with the local cuisine; and Selva Oaxaca to see how it mixes into artisanal cocktails. For a sip with a view, take your thirst to the rooftop of Puro Burro , a hip watering hole founded by native agave impresario, Asis Cortes — the man behind Mezcal Dixeebe .

Oaxacan Beaches

The state of Oaxaca is home to over 300 miles of coastline, so there are plenty of beaches to explore on a weekend getaway. Puerto Escondido , for example, is amassing a lot of tourist attention from beachgoers these days. (A flight from OAX to Puerto Escondido — PXM — is about 45 minutes.)

There's also Mazunte, with its cerulean surf crashing into the jagged shore. (Check out the Mexican Turtle Center in town, dedicated to the preservation of everyone's favorite slow-moving reptile.) And if you want to speed things up a bit, head several miles east along the coast to the town of Zipolite . There are powerful waves pummeling this sand, popular with surfers. Though others opt to simply lay and tan, enjoying the sunset over surrounding cliffs. Or you can snorkel the protected coral reefs of neighboring Huatulco National Park.

Oaxaca is filled with small boutiques with handmade goods for every budget. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is a market with goods like sandals, bags, homeware, and more.

Rabinor recommended not skipping the artisan communities outside of town, such as San Martín Tilcajete, San Bartolo Coyotepec, and Teotitlan del Valle. "[This is] where skilled communities create exquisite works of art, including colorful alebrijes (wooden figurines), intricate black pottery, and vibrant textiles," he said.

For food, consider stopping by Mercado de Abastos. You can book a tour of the market through the area's most popular guide: Omar Alonso . "This is where locals go to buy everything," Alonso told T+L. "During holidays, it's particularly packed as we gather the ingredients we'll need to offer to our guests that come during the festivities." And for mezcal, visit Mezcaleria Cuish for both a drink and some bottles to-go.

You'll want to savor the world-class cuisine offered throughout Oaxaca and you'll have no trouble finding it when you're strolling the streets.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre

The hub's bustling market scene is a great place to absorb a bit of everything. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is famous for its variety of food stalls featuring everything from baked goods and pastries to an entire aisle of roasted proteins: "El Pasillo de las Carnes Asadas." Here, you can order trays of meat that get cooked fresh in front of you. For something smaller and more vegetarian-friendly, explore Mercado Organico La Cosecha .

Cesar Rodriguez/Bloomberg via Getty Images

Restaurante Casa Oaxaca

If you're craving more of a sit-down experience, make a reservation at Casa Oaxaca's restaurant from chef Alejandro Ruiz. Absolutely order the tableside guacamole and explore Oaxacan cuisine with dishes like mole negro , and coloradito .

One of the top-rated restaurants in the city is Origen , helmed by 2016  Top Chef  winner Rodolfo Castellanos. Pro tip: try the grilled octopus and chicharrones.

El Lechoncito de Oro

Be sure to save room for El Lechoncito de Oro , which is open nightly from 8 p.m. until … whenever. This unassuming tented stall is an after-hours institution. They specialize in mouth-watering seared pork tacos covered in crispy pork rinds and spicy salsa verde.

Bar La Giralda

"Every time I'm [in Oaxaca], I must stop into Bar La Giralda for my favorite michelada on the planet," author Javier Cabral, who co-wrote "Oaxaca: Home Cooking From The Heart Of Mexico," told T+L . "They use pasilla chiles in the base. The more you drink, the more  botanas  [snacks] arrive."

Read More : Where to Eat and Drink in Oaxaca, According to People Who Are Obsessed With Eating and Drinking in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a big state — a little larger than the state of Indiana — occupying several tropical and subtropical climates. The temperature can vary wildly depending on where you're visiting and when. "The best time to visit Oaxaca depends on your preferences for weather, cultural events, and crowd levels," Rabinor said.

The good news is that it's almost always pleasantly warm and abundantly sunny. The one exception is the rainy season, which extends from May into September. Rabinor said that while the rainy season "brings occasional showers and higher humidity" it also "offers lush landscapes and fewer visitors.

July is a popular month, according to Rabinor, that can be crowded since it overlaps with the cultural festival of Guelaguetza , also called the Lunes del Cerro or "Mondays on the Hill."

Gabriel Perez/Getty Images

Early November is also a perennially popular time to visit. The weather is dependably inviting, as it's the start of the dry season, which extends through April. You'll also experience Día de los Muertos celebrations, bringing mirth, marigold, and mesmerizing pageantry into the streets of cities and villages throughout the country. Even if you miss these particular festivities, arrive sometime between fall and spring break, and you'll leave with little to no regrets.

Read More : The Best Time to Visit Mexico for Good Weather and Affordable Prices

Oaxaca is most easily reached through Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX) — a smaller-sized airport. Direct service from the United States arrives by way of Los Angeles, Dallas, and Houston. One way to snag a bargain fare is to fly into Guadalajara (GDL) or Mexico City (MEX), and then take a domestic carrier to OAX.

Oaxaca is a walkable city so you don't need to rent a car. While a vehicle is helpful when visiting sites outside of the city, like Hierve el Agua, you can opt for a local car service to drive you to farther destinations. Should you want transportation from point A to point B within the downtown, cabs are readily available. To get to and from the airport, you can take a taxi, bus, or rental car.

Rebecca and the World

19 Useful Things to Know Before Travelling to Oaxaca, Mexico

Photo of author

First time travelling to Oaxaca? Here are some handy Oaxaca travel tips to help you prepare!

It’s no secret that I have a huge crush on Oaxaca , Mexico. This city has stolen my heart twice, for its history, beauty, friendliness and deliciousness (the food in Oaxaca is the BEST!).

After two trips to this wonderful city, I’ve put together this guide on a few things I wish I’d known before travelling to Oaxaca . I’m hoping this helps you get ready to visit Oaxaca or even inspires you to put the city on your bucket list.

And if you need help planning your visit to Oaxaca, check out my Oaxaca itinerary . It’s an overview of the best things to do in Oaxaca in four days, and can be adapted if you have more or less time in Oaxaca.

So, without further ado, here’s my Oaxaca travel guide with some handy travel tips !

Colorful 'OAXACA' sign in bold letters with the Santo Domingo de Guzmán church in the background under a cloudy sky. Oaxaca is one of the best places to visit in Mexico, but it can be tricky to pronounce!

This blog post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you book or buy something through one of these links, I may earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

What's in this article (Click to view)

1. The pronunciation can be tricky

You’ve probably seen the word “Oaxaca” on paper or a computer screen and gone, “huh?”.

Why so many vowels?! And what’s with that “x”?!

To help alleviate your confusion, it’s pronounced wa-HAH-kah. Rolls off the tongue once you know how to say it.

2. Oaxaca is both a state and a city

While Oaxaca is both a state and city , in this article I’m talking specifically about Oaxaca city , or Oaxaca de Juárez if you want to get formal.

Map of Mexico highlighting Oaxaca state in red on the southern coast.

Oaxaca state is the 10th largest in Mexico, with a population of almost 4 million. It’s in the southwest of the country.

While the state’s mountainous and rugged terrain does make journeys through Oaxaca a little longer and more challenging, it’s also been a contributing factor to the survival of many indigenous peoples and cultures (although of course the picture’s not all rosy). Traditions remain strong in Oaxaca, something that you’ll see throughout Oaxaca city.

Oaxaca city is the capital of the state and has a population of just over 300,000 people. Despite its size, it’s got a wonderful small-town vibe.

3. Plan on travelling to Oaxaca for 3 days  at a minimum

To truly experience everything that Oaxaca City and the surrounding region has to offer, plan to visit Oaxaca for  at least three days  – but you could easily spend a week here. Any less than that and you won’t get to enjoy the food and culture that make this city one of my favourites.

There really are an incredible amount of things to do in Oaxaca , and I don’t want you to miss out on any of it!

We spent 4 days in Oaxaca and it was perfect – enough time to see everything we needed to see (and eat!) but also plenty of time for relaxing in the zocalo and people-watching.

But, to be honest, I could easily spend a month in this city. (It’s on my cities-to-live-in-one-day list.)

4. Come hungry

If you’ve heard anything at all about Oaxaca, I bet it’s about the  food scene . Plan to visit with an empty stomach and an open mind because you need to try everything.

A traditional Oaxacan tlayuda topped with beans, cheese, avocado, tomato, and steak, accompanied by a side of salsa. Oaxacan food is incredible, including tlayudas, which is often called a Mexican pizza.

You can’t visit Oaxaca without trying ALL the food, so to start you off drooling, here are a few recommendations for  what to eat in Oaxaca :

  • Tlayudas  – often called Oaxacan pizza, these crispy tortillas are topped with beans, tomato, lettuce, meat (usually pork or thin beef) and stringy  quesillo . They’re best shared with someone as they’re pretty big and messy to eat!
  • Mole  – Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles and you should try them all. If you’ve never heard of mole (pronounced MOH-lay) then you’re in for a treat. Mole is a traditional sauce that’s earthy and rich. In some moles, chocolate is a key ingredient, but not all. Mole is labour-intensive and some varieties can contain more than 30 or 40 individual ingredients. Make sure to try a Oaxaca mole when you visit (and you can even buy the paste to take home with you).
  • Memelitas  – the perfect snack, these are fried or toasted rounds of  masa  (corn dough) topped with beans,  cotija  cheese and some kind of protein.
  • Atole  – this hot, thick drink is made from masa mixed with water, cinnamon (and often other spices), vanilla and sugar, and it’s great for breakfast.
  • Tostadas  – another great snack, these are tortillas that are toasted until crunchy and then topped with other ingredients.
  • Pan de yema  – light bread that you dip into hot chocolate (sounds strange but it’s so, so good!).
  • Tascalate  – another drink that’s made from roasted corn, chocolate, nuts, vanilla, sugar and achiote. You can drink it hot or cold, or with milk or water (I like it cold with milk!).

This list barely touches the surface of all the amazing  Oaxaca food  – there are so many more delicious things that you should try (including  chapulines  – fried grasshoppers – for the brave!).

Exploring the markets and street food carts are a good place to start trying Oaxacan food. Just follow the crowds and order what everyone else is eating and you’ll end up with something that makes your taste buds dance.

But, if it’s all too overwhelming and you’d like a local to show you what, where and how to eat, then  book a food tour  with Omar of  Oaxacking .

We spent four hours eating with him and it was just like hanging out with a mate who wants to show you around their home city. I’ve seriously never eaten so much food in four hours (a siesta was needed afterwards) but it was a great introduction to the tastes of Oaxaca.

Guided option:  Omar’s food tour of Oaxaca is on the higher end (but totally worth it!), so  this affordable option  takes guests to other markets in Oaxaca.  This tour  focuses on Oaxaca’s famous corn and mole dishes.

Busy market scene in Oaxaca with stalls lined with fresh flowers and people walking through. If you're travelling to Oaxaca, consider a food tour with Omar of Oaxacking to learn what, where and how to eat Oaxacan food.

I’m putting together a post on where to eat in Oaxaca, but in the meantime here are some restaurant recommendations.

Where to eat breakfast in Oaxaca

The most important meal of the day! We loved starting the day off at these cafés:

  • PAN:AM  – order the  chilaquiles  and a fresh juice, and don’t forget to get a  pain au chocolat  from the bread basket that the staff bring around.  Several locations around Oaxaca
  • Itanoni  – famed for its focus on corn, everything in this family-run restaurant is made from the grain. The  tascalate  is delicious (I bought some to take home with me), as are the  tamales  and  tetelas . Go with a group and order one of everything so you can try it all! This was my favourite Oaxaca restaurant.  Av Belisario Domínguez 513
  • Fonda Florecita  – a little further away from the Centro, this stall is inside the Mercado de la Merced. There’s no handwritten menu so ask the staff to speak slowly and tell you what they’re serving up that day. The  pan de yema  is particularly good.

Casual restaurants in Oaxaca

There are so many great restaurants in Oaxaca for lunch or dinner it can be hard to decide – believe me, I had a lot of FOMO during our time in Oaxaca. Here are a few recommendations to help you narrow down your choices:

  • Cabuche  – the  enmoladas  (tortillas rolled up in mole) are mouthwatering. The tostadas change regularly so check the board for the day’s offering.  Miguel Hidalgo 1017
  • Boulenc  – this bakery slash café sells sandwiches on bread baked in-house. If you can, take some of the homemade jams and pickled vegetables home with you.  Calle Porfirio Díaz 207
  • Coronita  – go here for a sampler of 7 moles.  D íaz Ordaz 208

Fine dining restaurants in Oaxaca

One of the great things about a Oaxaca vacation is its affordability, so you can eat out at award-winning restaurants for a fraction of the price that you’d pay in other cities. Here are a few that we visited on our trip, all of which celebrate Oaxacan flavours and ingredients. I’d go back to any of these in a heartbeat:

  • Criollo  – part-owned by Enrique Olvera, the man behind Pujol in Mexico City (currently number 12 of the 50 best restaurants in the world), the multi-course tasting menu will introduce you to quality Oaxacan ingredients and flavours. Make a reservation in advance.  Francisco I. Madero 129
  • Casa Oaxaca  – overlooking the Templo de Santo Domingo, sitting out on the patio on an evening just adds to the delicious food. Reserve a table well ahead.  Calle de La Constitución 104A
  • El Destilado  – owned by three Americans who fell in love with Oaxacan cuisine. Great vibe and service.  5 de Mayo 409

5. Days start slow

There’s really no need to get up early in Oaxaca, as there’s not a whole lot going on in the city before 9 or 10am. Some coffee shops and cafes don’t even open until 8am.

So, unless you’re starting out early on a long day trip, enjoy that sleep-in!

6. Oaxaca is affordable

When I visited Oaxaca, I constantly had to check my currency converter app to make sure I wasn’t miscalculating the price of food, drinks and goods. Depending on your exchange rate, many foreigners will find Oaxaca to be  very affordable .

However, I have noticed prices going up as more tourists visit and foreigners move to Oaxaca. I’m doing research for an upcoming return trip to Oaxaca and have seen prices jump.

Vendors in markets are usually willing to negotiate, but just because you can doesn’t mean you should. Pay the price that’s asked and what’s fair, as people are usually just trying to make a living.

The facade of a church in Oaxaca with clear blue sky in the background. Oaxaca is a beautiful city, and one of the best places to visit in Mexico - this guide shares everything you need to know before travelling to Oaxaca.

7. Oaxaca is safe – even for solo female travellers

Mexico gets such a bad rap when it comes to safety, and it’s not always warranted. So it’s no surprise that a lot of people thinking about visiting Oaxaca ask an obvious question:  is Oaxaca safe to visit ?

The answer: yes,  I  felt very safe in Oaxaca.

On my first visit to Oaxaca I travelled solo, and my second time was with my husband. Both times I  never had any issues  and I  always felt safe , even when we walked around the city at nighttime (granted, we were only walking in the main touristy neighbourhoods).

Of course there’s crime in Oaxaca like in every part of the world. So, as always, it pays to  be aware of your surroundings  and  follow basic safety measures  when travelling to Oaxaca:

  • Come armed with some basic Spanish
  • Don’t wander around alone at night
  • Only bring what you need – leave the valuables in your hotel room
  • Don’t flash around your expensive camera and phones
  • If something does happen, don’t fight back! Valuables can be replaced, your life cannot

8. Oaxaca is high up!

Oaxaca sits at 1,555 metres (5,102 feet) above sea level, so don’t be surprised to find yourself out of breath every so often (at least, that was my excuse!).

Some people who are prone to  altitude  sickness do have issues in Oaxaca, but for most people it won’t be an issue.

To avoid Oaxaca altitude sickness, take it easy and don’t go rushing around the city. Drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol.

9. The city is so clean

I found the streets of Oaxaca to be so clean and well-maintained – more so than big cities around the world (here’s looking at you, New York City!). Do your part and keep it clean, too.

A street in Oaxaca lined with colorful buildings and cobblestone pavement, pedestrians walking on the sidewalk. One of the things to know before you visit Oaxaca is that the city is meticulously clean and well-kept.

10. Mezcal is the drink of choice

While Mexico may be known for tequila, in Oaxaca, it’s  mezcal  that’s the drink of choice. This liquor is also made of agave but it’s far more complex, with a smoky flavour (read more in this article about what is mezcal ). Most mezcal is made in Oaxaca state.

Mezcal seems to be the trendy drink of choice of late, and I’ve seen mezcal bars popping up in cities around the world.

If you don’t know much about mezcal, then I recommend starting out at  La Mezcaloteca   (Reforma 506)  for a tasting. We let the staff know what flavours we liked and they customised the tasting to our preferences. You’ll need to make a reservation in advance.

There are also plenty of  mezcal tours  where you can visit a  palenque  (mezcal distillery) and learn about the production process. Omar of  Oaxacking  has tours that visit small-batch, family-owned  palenques , as does  Las Bugambilias , the tour company we signed up with. We did a full-day tour and visited three different producers on the outskirts of the city.

You’ll find that the cheaper tours are more focused on larger production facilities and are more about the drinking rather than the learning process, so choosing a tour really depends on your budget and what you’re looking to get out of the experience.

Bartender pouring mezcal into small glasses with bottles of artisanal agave gin and mezcal on display. Mezcal is the drink of choice in Oaxaca - most of this alcoholic beverage is produced in Oaxaca state.

11. Oaxaca is centuries old

Like all of Mexico, Oaxaca’s  fascinating and tumultuous history  stretches back thousands and thousands of years.

While you’re in Oaxaca, make sure to learn more about this history. A good place to start is the  Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca  (Oaxaca Culture Museum). Housed in a former monastery, the corridors are filled with exhibits that trace the beginnings of Oaxaca through to modern times.

Spend half a day at  Monte Albán , which dates back to 500BC. This was the most important Zapotec site for more than a thousand years. There’s little signage throughout the site, unfortunately, so see if you can download some information to your phone, find a good guidebook or even hire a guide to show you around . In my opinion, you can’t miss this site on your Oaxaca trip.

Another interesting ruins site nearby Oaxaca is  Mitla . Around 45 kilometres from Oaxaca, it’s another easy day trip from Oaxaca.

Panoramic view of the ancient Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán on a clear day with mountains in the distance. Monte Alban is a great day trip from Oaxaca - it's a must-visit to see this centuries-old site.

12. Do your research to find the best Oaxaca tours

There are plenty of tours to surrounding areas of Oaxaca, but make sure to do your research as many of them are rushed.

On my first trip to Oaxaca I did a day trip to  Hierve el Agua , the incredible petrified waterfalls surrounded by mineral pools that you can swim in. It’s one of the  prettiest places to visit in Oaxaca , but when I went, I made the mistake of booking a cheap day trip and was rewarded with some low-quality mezcal tastings and only a short time at the actual waterfalls.

Find tours that are run by Oaxacans and that support local Oaxacan businesses and people. Tours that actually want to teach you about the area, culture and customs rather than rushing you through a tight itinerary. GuateGo  has a tour that includes hotel pick-up and drop-off, mezcal tasting, a visit to see stunning weavings, and – of course! – the chance to wander the pools of Hierve el Agua.

13. Oaxacans love to celebrate

Like all Mexican cities and towns,  Oaxacan celebrations  are wild and a time when the whole  community  comes together.

Some of the  best festivals in Oaxaca  to plan your Oaxaca travel plans around are:

  • Guelaguetza  – people from all across Oaxaca province swarm on Oaxaca City in a huge celebration of Oaxacan culture. There’s dancing, there’s music, there’s food (of course!) all in a huge spectacle over two consecutive Mondays at the end of July.
  • Día de los Muertos  – despite what you’ve heard, this  isn’t  Mexican Halloween. During Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), people come together to celebrate their deceased loved ones and make offerings. Día de los Muertos is late October/early November each year and the celebration goes over two days.
  • Noche de Rábanos  – if you have any idea what rábanos means in English then you may be a little confused right now… a celebration of  radishes ? Yep, why not! This unusual festival has its origins in colonial times, and today you’ll see hundreds of displays of intricately carved radishes. An interesting one to add to your Mexico bucket list!

A dream of mine is to visit Oaxaca during Día de los Muertos. It’s been on my bucket list for a long time but I’m yet to make it a reality!

14. Pack a spare bag

Even if you’re not a fan of shopping, I  dare  you not to buy anything in Oaxaca.

I rarely buy souvenirs when I travel, but I just couldn’t help myself in Oaxaca, and ended up stuffing hand-stitched tops, a small rug, pottery, a straw handbag, books, cushion covers, too many bottles of mezcal and powdered hot chocolate into my suitcase.

The markets are a great place to check out for a huge range of items:

  • Mercado 20 de Noviembre  and  Mercado Benito Juárez  are in the centre of town. While quite touristy, there’s also a huge variety on offer. Talk to the stallholders to find out which goods are made locally.
  • The  Mercado de Artesanías ,  Huizache  and  La Casa de las Artesanías  are three good craft markets to explore. These complexes are good because you can do all your shopping in one place. Most also have information on where goods have come from and even who made it.

Sometimes you don’t even need to step into a shop to make a purchase – there are vendors right on the street waiting to sell you beautifully hand-stitched cushion covers and clothing.

Vibrant display of traditional Oaxacan ceramics and pottery in a local market. There are so many gorgeous things to buy when traveling to Oaxaca - from pottery to hand-stitched blouses, to chocolate and rugs, you'll find amazing souvenirs to take home.

15. The beaches are far away

The only downside to travelling to Oaxaca is that if you’re planning to combine a beach holiday with your city trip, think again. The beaches are quite a drive away.

They look deceptively close on a map, but in reality, because of the winding roads through the mountains, it’s a 3- to 4-hour journey by car or bus.

Having said that, if you’ve got the time, tack on a few days at the beach to your Oaxaca itinerary. I’ve spent quite a bit of time at Puerto Escondido, and you should also consider Huatulco, Puerto Ángel, Zipolite, Bahia de Tembo or Mazunte for some beach time. Check GuateGo for transfer options from Oaxaca to these beach towns.

16. There’s no bad time for travelling to Oaxaca

I don’t think there’s any  bad  time to visit, but the  best time to visit Oaxaca  is October to February when the weather is milder. April and May are the hottest months of the year.

The summer months (June to September) bring lots of rain, but it also means lush, green landscapes.

The busiest times of year are around the festivals and celebrations I’ve mentioned above, and the week of Easter. If you do plan a trip around one of these festivals, make sure to book well in advance as Oaxaca hotels do fill up quickly!

17. Travelling to Oaxaca is easy

Depending where you’re coming from, getting to Oaxaca is fairly easy.

Oaxaca has an international airport, Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX). Direct flights land here from the U.S. and countries in Central and South America.

CHECK FLIGHTS TO OAXACA ONLINE HERE

For most international visitors planning Oaxaca travel, you’ll need to transit through Mexico City first. You could even stop in Mexico City for a few days (check out my  guide to Mexico City here ).

From the airport, it’s only a 25-minute drive to downtown. Book a shared taxi (van) at the airport. These drop passengers off at their hotels around the area (which means it can take a little longer than 25 minutes). Alternatively,  GuateGo  offers private transfers direct to your hotel, which will save you a tonne of time.

There are plenty of buses and domestic flights to Oaxaca from Mexico City and other major cities around Mexico.

Vibrant blue wall with 'MADE IN OAXACA - HACIENDA COMUNITARIA' emblem painted in white, with red trim and a decorative white iron window grille. Oaxaca travel is super easy to organise - there's an international airport in the city, or you can fly via Mexico City.

18. Where to stay in Oaxaca

Oaxaca has a booming tourism industry, so there are plenty of hotels in the city. Here are a few recommendations for visiting Oaxaca:

  • Hotel Siglo XVII  – this is where we stayed when we were last in Oaxaca. It’s in the city centre so it’s close to the main Oaxaca attractions. The staff are friendly and the on-site breakfast is great.  Check the latest rates and book your stay with Booking.com or Expedia
  • Flavia Hotel – luxury hotel with spa services and an infinity pool overlooking the city. Check rates and availability online with Expedia
  • Casa Antonieta  – this boutique hotel has only six, minimalist-styled rooms. Each room has a small patio attached and there’s a coffee shop that adjoins the hotel so you can start your day with caffeine.  Check the latest rates on  Booking.com   or   Expedia
  • Hotel Dainzu  – a woman we met on our trip stayed at this delightful budget hotel and said it was one of the best places to stay in Oaxaca. It has a pretty courtyard and decent-sized rooms. It’s also in a great location in the centre of town.  Check rates on Booking.com  |  Read reviews on TripAdvisor

19. Pack travel insurance

Oaxaca is pretty safe, but if I’m travelling internationally, I always arrange travel insurance. Start your search for travel insurance providers on Travel Insurance Master , where you can compare providers and policies.

Wrap up: Oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca is one of my absolute favourite cities in the entire world. It has a beautiful blend of culture, food and nature and is so easy to visit. Hopefully these Oaxaca travel tips have helped you plan your first – but probably not last! – visit here.

Did you find this article helpful? Consider buying me a coffee as a way to say thanks!

Are you planning on traveling to Oaxaca? Is there anything else you need to know before you visit? Drop your questions in the comments section below.

Related posts

Before you go… you might like these Mexico travel articles.

  • 4 Days in Oaxaca Itinerary: 25+ Best Things To Do
  • 3 Days in Mexico City: 20 Things to See, Do and Eat
  • The Best Things To Do in Cancun, Mexico: An Insider’s Guide

MEXICO TRIP ESSENTIALS

  • Book flights to and around Mexico online with Skyscanner . I like this site because it shows me which dates are cheaper.
  • Find great hotels across Mexico. Check prices on Booking.com   and Expedia online.
  • Check out the huge range of day tours throughout Mexico on GetYourGuide or Viator . There’s something for everyone.
  • A copy of the  Lonely Planet guide to Mexico will be handy.
  • One thing I always purchase is  travel insurance ! Travel Insurance Master allows you to compare across multiple policy providers, while SafetyWing is great for long-term travellers and digital nomads.

PIN IT FOR LATER:

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Oaxaca is one of the best places to visit in Mexico. If you're planning on travelling to Oaxaca, click through to read this guide with useful things to know before you go. Oaxaca travel is easy, but this guide will help to make the most of your visit! #Oaxaca #Mexico #MexicoTravel #OaxacaTravel #traveltips #visitOaxaca #Oaxacathingstodo

About REBECCA

I'm a travel junkie who started dreaming about seeing the world from a very young age. I've visited more than 40 countries and have a Master of International Sustainable Tourism Management. A former expat, I've lived in Australia, Papua New Guinea, Argentina and the United States. I share travel resources, tips and stories based on my personal experiences, and my goal is to make travel planning just that bit easier.

6 thoughts on “19 Useful Things to Know Before Travelling to Oaxaca, Mexico”

Hi Rebecca,

We are wanting to travel from uk to oaxaca, spend 3/4 days.. but we do wish to travel to the coast line to stay for 4/5 days.. really have no idea how we piece that together, or where on the coast line would be the absolute best ?

Thank you! I am thinking of solo traveling this Oct/Nov. Your blog is super helpful.

Enjoy!! It’s such an amazing city, and I always felt very safe. If you have any more questions, just let me know.

Hi Rebecca! Thank you for this post/blog…I am planning to visit Oaxaca next winter and explore if this could be a destination I could enjoy going back to escape from my Montreal winter each year. I want to go for one month for now and am a woman alone. Any suggestion for long term stay?

Oh Claudette, I’m jealous! I’d love to spend a month in Oaxaca. I don’t have any recommendations for a long-term stay, but I’d start with Airbnb or VRBO and see what properties they have there and how long you can rent for. Having travelled there as a solo female before (my first trip to Oaxaca), I felt very safe. Enjoy!!

I’m from Oaxaca. I’m willing to help if you need any advise. You can find me in IG Leticia.djarquin

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How to Spend 5 Days in Oaxaca

The historic church in Oaxaca, Mexico with plants in the foreground and the sun bright in the background

Oaxaca is one of my favorite cities. From the moment I first visited, I knew this was a place I would return to again and again and again. I’ve been half a dozen times now, even leading tours around the city .

Located in southwestern Mexico in a valley surrounded by craggy mountains, Oaxaca has been inhabited for thousands of years by indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. Today, it’s a center for food, mezcal production, and artisan textiles and pottery, and features a rich history, owing to places like Monte Albán and Mitla.

Take all that history, food, and drink, and package it in a place brimming with colorful buildings, scenic rooftop restaurants and bars, unique street art, and picturesque parks, and it’s no surprise so many people — myself included — love Oaxaca .

Since I’ve visited this city a lot, to help you plan your trip, I put together this five-day Oaxaca itinerary. It covers all the highlights, my favorite things to see and do, and some off-the-beaten-path activities too!

Table of Contents

Oaxaca Itinerary: Day 1

Oaxaca itinerary: day 2, oaxaca itinerary: day 3, oaxaca itinerary: day 4, oaxaca itinerary: day 5.

A quiet, empty street painted bright colors in beautiful Oaxaca, Mexico

My favorite company here is Oaxaca Free Walking Tour . They offer free daily tours that show you the hidden gems and what life is like for residents. I can’t recommend them enough if it’s your first time here. Just make sure to tip your guide at the end!

See the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán While in downtown Oaxaca, don’t miss stopping in this complex, which features a 17th-century Baroque Roman Catholic church, a cultural museum, and a botanical garden. Originally used as a Dominican church and monastery, this photogenic site was later used as a barracks and military building during Mexico’s revolution (1910–1920) all the way into the 1990s.

While here, see the Museo de las Culturas, which is home to all kinds of religious and pre-Columbian artifacts. The “Treasures of Monte Albán” exhibition showcases over 400 relics from a Mixtec tomb that is one of the most important burial sites in Mesoamerica, including a skull covered in turquoise, carved bone objects, weaving tools, and jewelry made of gold and jade. It is by far one of the best things to do in town. Expect to spend a couple of hours in the entire complex.

C. Macedonio Alcalá S/N. The Museo de las Culturas is open Tuesday-Friday 10am-3pm. Admission to the church is free, while the museum is 85 MXN.

Wander the city and admire the street art Oaxaca has a wealth of street art, ranging from political pieces commenting on social issues to murals focused on indigenous culture and history. The areas of Xochilmilco and Jalatlaco are two of the best for murals. You can also join a street art bike tour offered by Coyote Aventuras (850 MXN) for an even more in-depth look.

Try a street-stall hamburguesa After a busy day of exploring, feast on an hamburguesa for dinner. It’s a burger topped with a hot dog, sliced cheese, Oaxaca cheese, ham, pineapple, lettuce, tomato, and jalapeño. I know it’s weird to include this but trust me, you’ll want one. And it’s not made for Gringos and tourists either. Locals devour these. It started here. You’ll see stalls all over town but Cangreburguer near Santo Domingo sells one of the best.

A farm growing agave for mezcal in Oaxaca, Mexico

20 de Noviembre 512. Open daily 7am-9pm. Admission is free.

Stroll through the Botanical Garden Located in the former convent in the aforementioned Santo Domingo de Guzmán complex, the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca was founded in 1994 and opened to the public in 1999. Spanning six acres, it features plants from across the state (many of which have been transplanted here, since the garden is so young). In addition to the flowers, trees, and cacti that dot the garden, there are also sculptures and works of art.

Admission is by guided tour only and there is only one English tour per day (offered at 11am), which has only 25 spots and fills up quickly so be sure to arrive early to grab your spot.

Reforma Sur, Ruta Independencia. Open Monday-Saturday 10am-3:30pm. Admission is by guided tour only. Admission (including the tour) is 50 MXN for Spanish tours and 100 MXN for English ones.

Learn about mezcal I love mezcal (which is one of the reasons why I love Oaxaca). This is the birthplace of mezcal, a spirit distilled from agave. Unlike tequila, which is also made from agave, when making mezcal, the heart of the plant is cooked in a pit in the ground before it is crushed. Then water is added, and it’s allowed to ferment. Since the plant is cooked, mezcal has a much smokier flavor than tequila.

If you want to learn more about this popular (and delicious) spirit, Rambling Spirits runs the best mezcal tours in Oaxaca. Go with them if you want to learn more. Their guides have incredible knowledge and can take you to places the bigger tours can’t. I learned a ton on this tour and highly recommend it! Most tours leave after lunch so it’s a perfect way to spend the remainder of your day.

Additionally, you can pop into one of the many mezcalerías in town to taste and learn more about the region’s favorite spirit. My personal favorites are Los Amantes Mezcalería, Mezcalogia, Tres Hermanas, Mezcalería In Situ, and Comere.

The ancient historic site of Monte Alban near Oaxaca, Mexico

Start your visit by stopping in at the museum, as it’ll give you context, especially if you’re not on a guided tour . Then, wander the sprawling site at your leisure, climbing ancient Zapotec pyramids and admiring the tombs, terraces, and canals that span several miles. The site takes about 2-3 hours to visit, depending on your pace. Bring a hat and sunscreen, as there isn’t much shade.

Ignacio Bernal S/N, San Pedro Ixtlahuaca. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is 90 MXN.

Take a food tour Upon returning to the city, explore the culinary scene with a guided food tour. Oaxaca is considered one of the most important hubs for gastronomy in Mexico. My favorite tour company is Oaxaca Eats , which runs several tours, most of which last around four hours. You’ll get to sample over 20 dishes and learn a ton about the food and its history. It’s one of the oldest food tour companies in town and run by a lovely local woman with a passion for food.

Tour prices vary but expect to spend 2,000 MXN.

The cool waters and beautiful views of Hierve el Agua, a swimming area near Oaxaca, Mexico

In addition to admiring the calcified cliffs, there are also hikes in the area, which is a good way to get away from the crowds.

Open daily 7am-6:30pm. Admission is 50 MXN.

Explore Mitla Another historic site that I think is a must-see, this pre-Columbian UNESCO World Heritage Site was one of the main religious and spiritual hubs for the indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec people. Used as a sacred burial ground and believed to be a gateway between the realms of the living and the dead, Mitla was built in 850 CE but was mostly destroyed by the Spanish in the mid-16th century. However, some buildings were left intact (some of which date as far back as 400 CE), which you can explore on your visit to the archaeological site, which stands out from other Mesoamerican ruins due to the mosaics covering the tombs and walls. It’s another site I always take people to see when I guide them around the city.

Open Tuesday-Saturday 10am-4pm, Sunday 10am-2pm. Admission is 90 MXN while skip-the-line tickets are 160 MXN.

A bright sign for the town of Coyotepec, a small town near Oaxaca, Mexico

Visit Oaxaca’s artisan towns Scattered throughout the state of Oaxaca are small folk-art villages, where you can meet artisans, see how traditional goods are made, and bring back a souvenir of your travels if you choose. Each village specializes in a different craft: Teotitlán del Valle is known for its textiles, San Bartolo Coyotepec for black pottery, and San Martín Tilcajete and San Antonio Arrazola for (brightly colored fantastical animal sculptures), to name just a few.

Experience a temazcal On your last evening in Oaxaca, wind down at a temazcal (meaning “house of heat”), a traditional Zapotec sweat lodge. You’ll sit in a small domed hut that becomes increasingly warmer. You’ll rub everything from clay to fresh fruit juices and peels on your skin as you heat up, cooling down by dunking yourself in cold water. It’s a very meditative, spiritual experience with numerous health benefits.

Visits usually last an hour and cost around 600 MXN.

Wander the Sunday market If you’re in town on a Sunday, be sure to visit Mercado Tlacolula, one of the most popular markets in the region. It’s been in operation for centuries and is a good place to buy local crafts, produce, food, and everything in between. It’s located 45 minutes outside of town, so you’ll need to drive there or take the bus, but it’s absolutely worth the journey. Thousands of people come here, and there’s tons of amazing food to try. Don’t skip the barbacoa (stewed meat) and chicharrón (fried pork rinds)!

Admire the world’s widest tree Just 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the center of Oaxaca, in the humble town of Santa María del Tule, is the world’s widest tree. Estimated to be 1,500-3,000 years old, this Montezuma cypress (Mexico’s national tree) has a diameter of about 14 meters (46 feet) and is a magnificent sight to behold.

Oaxaca quickly becomes a favorite of everyone who visits and a lot of people ending up coming back over and over again. There’s a lot to see and do here. This itinerary is just a general outline as there are tons of little museums, churches, experiences, and markets you can find on your own.

Use this itinerary to see the highlights and fill in the rest of your time with some wandering!

Book Your Trip to Mexico: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner . It is my favorite search engine because it searches websites and airlines around the globe, so you always know no stone is left unturned!

Book Your Accommodation You can book your hostel with Hostelworld as it has the largest inventory. If you want to stay elsewhere, use Booking.com , as it consistently returns the cheapest rates for guesthouses and hotels. Three of my favorite places to stay are:

  • Hostel Central
  • El Cielo Oaxaca
  • Iguana Hostel Oaxaca

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancelations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it, as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

  • SafetyWing (best for everyone)
  • Insure My Trip (for those 70 and over)
  • Medjet (for additional evacuation coverage)

Looking for the best companies to save money with? Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use!

Want More Information on Mexico? Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Mexico for even more planning tips!

Got a comment on this article? Join the conversation on Facebook , Instagram , or Twitter and share your thoughts!

Disclosure: Please note that some of the links above may be affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I earn a commission if you make a purchase. I recommend only products and companies I use and the income goes to keeping the site community supported and ad free.

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The historic church in the center of the historic area of Oaxaca, Mexico

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Overview of Monte Alban archaeological site on mountain-top above Oaxaca City.

The state of Oaxaca (wah-hah-kah) has a special magic felt by Mexicans and foreigners alike. A bastion of indigenous culture, it’s home to the country’s most vibrant crafts and art scene, some outstandingly colorful and extroverted festivities, a uniquely savory cuisine and diverse natural riches. At the center of the state in every way stands beautiful, colonial Oaxaca city, an elegant and fascinating cultural hub. Nearby, the forested Sierra Norte is home to successful community-tourism ventures enabling visitors to hike, bike and ride horses amid delicious green mountainscapes. To the south, across rugged, remote ranges, is Oaxaca’s fabulous tropical coast, with its wide sandy beaches, pumping Pacific surf, seas full of dolphins and turtles, and a string of beach towns and villages that will placate even the most anxious of travelers: surfer-heaven Puerto Escondido; planned but relaxed Bahías de Huatulco; and the mellow delights of Mazunte, Zipolite and San Agustinillo.

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Attractions

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Templo de Santo Domingo, and Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, Calle Macedonio Alcala, Oaxaca, Oaxaca State, Mexico

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

Oaxaca City

Got two hours? You'll need it for the Museum of Oaxacan Cultures, housed in the beautiful monastery buildings adjoining the Templo de Santo Domingo. This…

Buildings of the North Platform at Monte Alban.

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Valles Centrales

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Puerto Escondido

Legendary 3.5km-long Zicatela is the best-known surfing spot in Mexico courtesy of the tempestuous surfing waves of the Mexican Pipeline. The heart of the…

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Playa Zipolite

Zipolite's beach is huge, running for a good 1.5km and dispatching massive waves. It's famous for its nudity; you'll see people randomly swimming,…

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Playa Carrizalillo

Small is beautiful at Carrizalillo, set in a sheltered cove west of the center that's reached by a stairway of 157 steps. It’s popular for swimming and…

Playa Salchi

Playa Salchi

Bahías de Huatulco

Halfway between the western edge of Parque Nacional Huatulco and Puerto Ángel awaits some of the most precious coastline in Oaxaca. The water can be…

Hierve el Agua, thermal spring in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca, Mexico.

Mineral Springs

Hierve El Agua

Natural springs have never looked this good. Set in truly ethereal surroundings amid low brush-covered mountains, Hierve El Agua (meaning 'the water boils…

A woman walking toward the Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Templo de Santo Domingo

Gorgeous Santo Domingo is the most splendid of Oaxaca’s churches, with a finely carved baroque facade and nearly every square centimeter inside decorated…

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Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Looking for cheap street food? Look no further. Dozens of good, clean comedores (food stalls) fill this large market where wait staff will thrust menus to…

Voces de Copal

Voces de Copal

A classy crafts shop with superb alebrijes from the workshop of Jacobo and María Ángeles in San Martín Tilcajete. These brightly painted wooden figurines,…

Centro de las Artes San Agustin.

Centro de las Artes de San Agustín

Pretty San Agustín's large, early-20th-century textile mill has been superbly restored as the Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CaSa), a spectacular…

Auditorio Guelaguetza

Auditorio Guelaguetza

The July Guelaguetza celebrations take place in this rather spectacular semi-open-air auditorium on the Cerro del Fortín.

La Mano Mágica

La Mano Mágica

You’ll find art by leading figures such as Tamayo and Morales, plus a fine selection of handicrafts and rugs, at this commercial gallery founded by the…

Museo Textil de Oaxaca

Museo Textil de Oaxaca

This textile museum promotes Oaxaca’s traditional textile crafts through exhibitions, workshops, films, presentations and a library. Themed selections…

Centro Fotográfico Álvarez Bravo

Centro Fotográfico Álvarez Bravo

With a taste for provocative social commentary, this contemporary gallery displays weird and wonderful work by local and international photographers.

Fonda Florecita

Fonda Florecita

A popular local haunt for more than 50 years, this is the classic Oaxaca market-food experience. There's no printed menu, so you might try the salsa de…

Busy pedestrian street, Calle Alcalá, in downtown Oaxaca.

Andador Turístico

Historic, romantic, dignified and safe, wonderful Calle Alcalá (traffic-free since the 1980s) is what Oaxaca is all about. It runs north from the…

People in the Zocalo (Town Square) in Oaxaca.

Traffic-free, shaded by tall trees and surrounded by elegant portales (arcades), the Zócalo is the perfect place to start soaking up the Oaxaca atmosphere…

Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

Instituto de Artes Gráficas de Oaxaca

In a beautiful colonial house and founded by Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo, IAGO offers changing exhibitions of graphic art as well as a superb arts…

Xochimilco Aqueduct

Xochimilco Aqueduct

Wander northwest of the historical core and you’ll ultimately encounter this arched aqueduct rendered in typical green cantera stone that runs the length…

Cerro del Fortín

Cerro del Fortín

Oaxaca’s sentinel hill with stairs, statues, a park and – of course – views makes a robust early-morning run or walk. It starts on Calle Crespo at the…

Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad

Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad

Oaxaca doesn’t lack distinguished churches, but many locals rate the Soledad as their favorite. The original baroque facade dates from 1690; while the…

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Asunción

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Asunción

Oaxaca’s cantera stone cathedral is suitably massive and old, but in a city as culturally rich as Oaxaca, it is arguably only the third most impressive…

Jacobo & María Ángeles

Jacobo & María Ángeles

Jacobo and María Ángeles have been making particularly wonderful alebrijes (colorful animal figures fashioned out of soft copal wood) for over 25 years…

Alfarería Doña Rosa

Alfarería Doña Rosa

It was doña Rosa Real Mateo (1900−80) who invented the method of burnishing barro negro with quartz stones for the distinctive shine. Her family…

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Oaxaca, Mexico Travel Guide

One of the most culturally rich places in Mexico, Oaxaca state is among my favorite places in the country. This region, and the city in particular, is widely known for it’s mezcal, chocolate, and mole; as well as the diverse indigenous groups still calling the Oaxaca Valley home after hundreds of years.

While I love traveling the Yucatán Peninsula for its intriguing Maya ruins and uniquely beautiful cenotes , Oaxaca provides a blend of food, culture, and history unique to this part of Mexico—what you can find here is impossible to enjoy the same way when visiting anywhere else.

The flame tree in front of the church in Oaxaca is worth timing your visit

And while tourists descend on Oaxaca (pronounced wa-HAH-kah) for the two most notable festivals, Guelaguetza and Day of the Dead, it’s vibrant and interesting year-round. The city has beautifully restored colonial buildings—many of which are now hotels, museums, and restaurants.

In the past decade, international travel magazines have featured Oaxacan chefs for their intriguing twists on classic dishes that have long shaped the history of Mexico’s food scene. Couple that with it being the birthplace of mezcal—a smoky, fiery liquor that has quickly risen as the drink of choice in hipster havens from San Francisco to London—and you will never lack for things to do when you visit Oaxaca .

Jump to the part of this travel guide, or start from the top and work your way through the information and recommendations for visiting Oaxaca, Mexico .

Table of Contents

Things to Know Before Traveling to Oaxaca, Mexico

During the pre-colonial period, Oaxaca was home to roughly 16 different cultures; each one had its own language, customs, and traditions. The Zapotecs and Mixtecas were the largest and most sophisticated of these, and this ratio holds true today as descendants are widely spread throughout the valley in small villages and farms.

History about Oaxaca, Mexico you should know before you visit.

Between 1500-500 B.C., San José Magote, a Zapotec city, was a significant settlement in Oaxaca, notable for its early use of pottery, a craft still evident in the region. Oaxaca, rich in cultural diversity, was home to about 16 different cultures, including the prominent Zapotecs and Mixtecs, whose descendants still populate the valley.

In the 15th century, the Aztecs conquered Oaxaca, but their control was brief. Hernán Cortés arrived in 1519, marking the beginning of Spanish influence. The Spanish colonization reshaped Oaxaca, evident in its colonial architecture and the haciendas that now dot the valley, many turned into mezcal plantations.

Oaxaca’s layout, with its central zócalo, reflects its colonial past. Despite Spanish rule, which lasted 300 years, the region saw significant changes, including the battle of Huajuapan in 1811, where Valerio Trujano’s forces claimed Oaxaca for the revolutionaries. Later, during the Mexican Revolution, Emiliano Zapata’s ideology that land belonged to the workers gained traction here.

Today, Oaxaca, with its blend of indigenous and colonial history, remains a culturally rich but economically challenged region. The city and state of Oaxaca continue to be a tapestry of historical layers, each adding to its unique character.

a street sweeper in the Oaxaca city center

Fast Facts About Oaxaca, Mexico Travel

Mexican peso (MXN) ( current exchange rate )

Electricity

127V/60Hz (American plug)

Can you drink the water in Oaxaca?

No, the water is not safe to drink in Oaxaca. Expats and travelers should drink bottled, or consider the merits of a  SteriPen  or  LifeStraw  for your trip.

I used the tap water to brush my teeth, but other expats do not. If you’re a new traveler, or you have a sensitive stomach, use bottled water even for teeth brushing.

agave planet in Oaxaca Mexico

Local SIM Cards

This is a cinch and highly recommended for GPS and navigating. Telcel is likely your best option, although Movistar is popular in this region of Mexico (but not other regions).

For most travelers to Oaxaca, and especially those traveling to other areas of Mexico, opt for Telcel. If you have a U.S. T-Mobile account, it will do the trick, too.

There’s a full SIM guide here —note that you must show your passport to buy one at some locations (it’s hit or miss which places will ask to see it before selling you a SIM).

Festivals of Note

  • Day of the Dead is the signature festival in this region of Mexico and Oaxaca is an ideal place to celebrate. Day of the Dead occurs around Halloween, specifically in the first days of November.
  • Guelaguetza is huge and celebrates the 16 indigenous cultures of the Oaxaca Valley (July).
  • On an offbeat note, The Fiesta de Rábanos , the Festival of the Radishes is lively and takes place in the zócalo around the Christmas holidays with fireworks and crafts (23 December).

Oaxaca’s Primary Airports

  • Xoxocotlán in Oaxaca City (OAX)
  • Bahías de Huatulco in Huatulco (HUX)

How’s the wifi in Oaxaca?

Wifi is rampant and available at guesthouses and cafes. The data plans are also solid inside of cities and tourist areas so you can tether to your phone if you buy a data plan.

getting around Oaxaca means using the colectivos during your visit or hiring a private travel guide

Possible Issues

Not many. If you’re prone to nosebleeds, then the extremely dry winters might exacerbate the issue (it did for me).

And since Oaxaca is at altitude, those coming from sea-level may experience a few days of headaches and tiredness that can come from altitude sickness if you’re not acclimated. Stay well hydrated and get a good night’s sleep.

What’s the weather like in Oaxaca?

The winters in Oaxaca are mild, cool, and exceedingly dry. You won’t see snow in the city, but night-time temperatures can drop drastically, even on what was a seemingly mild winter day.

By mid summer, it’s scorching hot and unrelentingly sunny—bring a hat and sunscreen. Stay well-hydrated year round.

How much does it cost to travel Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is a favored destination for North American retirees because it’s so easy on the wallet. Extended-stay accommodation for the winter months books up early, but you can find affordable hostels and guesthouses year round.

A budget backpacker can get by with $30/day on the frugal side, and mid-range travelers will have plenty of tasty food and cute guesthouses to enjoy on a budget closer to $55/day per person.

Long-term, it costs well under $800 a month to live in Oaxaca City .

Accommodation

stay in the oaxaca city center during your visit

Accommodation is a cinch. I used the Moon Guide Oaxaca when moving around the state. If you’re basing yourself out of one of the major cities, consider using one of the booking engines. 

While the city guides below go to my favorite hotel booking site, Booking.com , many great deals are also found on VRBO  if you are member—vacation rentals can actually save you money since you often have a full kitchen, particularly if you’re a family or traveling with more than three people.

These websites have very established presences in this region of Mexico because of the number of North American snowbirds visiting each winter— vacation rentals are among the easiest ways to book nice spots in a good area of town. Backpackers can find dorms on Hostelworld , but most travelers, including budget travelers, can find great deals at Booking.com .

And if you buy a local SIM (which you should), you can easily call ahead and directly reserve spots en route. The months of December through February are very busy in Oaxaca City—if you plan any sort of extended stay, book ahead or you will not find affordable apartments and accommodations for rent.

If none of these will do, check out my detailed guide to finding good places to stay .

monte alban ruins near oaxaca city

How to Get Around Oaxaca

The major roads are well maintained and connect most any place you’ll need to go, but this is a mountainous region of Mexico and there is no way to avoid the winding roads. If you are prone to motion sickness, the long bus rides will tax your ability to stay well.

For shorter rides, colectivos , shared taxis, are an easy way to visit any of the rural towns. These taxis congregate at Abastos market (also called “central” when you/drivers are returning to the city), and a few other spots around town.

The northeastern colectivo launching point that I reference in the recommended daytrips is  pinpointed here —it’s easy to find because of the nearby McDonald’s. Go to this spot, then find a shared taxi with the name of your destination painted on the side. The colectivos usually cost 10-25 pesos max to any towns out in the Valley, and they add people to the car as you drive in the direction of your destination.

Of note, the local buses are considerably safer than colectivos , but less convenient. If you have Spanish and time on your side, these buses ply the main highways out of town. You will have to know your stop by sight or beg help from locals. You can catch a bus to the day-trip spots from the same spot where you catch a colectivo .

visiting Hierve el Agua is one of the top things to do in Oaxaca City

In Oaxaca City, the taxis are a flat fee; they are convenient if you find yourself out late and not prepared to navigate the cobbled streets on the way home. That said, most of Oaxaca City is walkable and you can explore everything in the city on foot.

Getting to or from Oaxaca

Use Bookaway to find the best route to or from Oaxaca, which includes public transport, flight prices, and the price of private or shared shuttle transfers. A lot of travelers arrive from Mexico City or Puebla , and those routes have quite a few options .

Note that the Ado bus network is extensive and ideal for those on a budget. These buses are large, comfortable, and affordable. Rental cars are easy to come by, although expensive to rent—they tack on huge fees and taxes to the offered price (read this thorough piece on navigating rental insurance in Mexico ).

Food & Drink Considerations

making tejate cooking class oaxaca

Food standards are good in this region of Mexico, and Oaxaca is famous for its culinary traditions and history. This is the “Land of the Seven Moles,” and they take their food (and pork in particular) seriously.

The water is not safe to drink, but bottled water is easy to find. Street food is scattered around, but the markets hold most of the street eats, so check the guides below to known where you can find the affordable and tasty street eats.

vegetarian food in oaxaca

Outside of the markets, you can most often find steamed corn ( elotes and esquites ), burgers, and sometimes a taco stand. If you decide to stick to budget and street food options, follow these food safety principles .

If you’re vegetarian, Oaxaca is a hard place to eat. Because of that, I wrote a dedicated post outlining how to eat vegetarian in Oaxaca, Mexico , specifically.

agave plant that makes the mezcal famous in Oaxaca City with visitors and travelers

Mezcal is the drink of choice in Oaxaca and you don’t have to go far to try it. It’s a very strong and smoky liquor, like tequila with a very distinct flavor. I don’t care for mezcal in any fashion (and there are many types and flavors to try), but I was in the minority, by far. In my group of friends, I alone didn’t enjoy the drink.

That said, I did enjoy learning about the history of the drink and understanding the importance of the agave plants to the local populations. I recommend mezcal tours in the city guides below; I highly recommended that you sign up for one.

Is Oaxaca safe to visit?

Although a few regions of Mexico have cartel violence and safety concerns, Oaxaca State is mostly free from these threats.

You may, however, encounter issues with the local protests—Oaxaca is famous for the amount of protests and these protesters are usually nonviolent, but they do close down the roads for entire days. The protests ramp up every year around May. Many times, these take place outside of the tourist areas, but occasionally the protest focuses on the city-center’s zòcolo.

quesadilla cooking at a local street food market that happens every weekend in Oaxaca City

By and large, tourists shouldn’t fear the protesting activity as it is most often teachers protesting wages, villages protesting new laws, and things of that sort. Again, it’s not targeted toward tourists and the tour companies and people of Oaxaca will be grateful to see you no matter what types of local protests are occurring at the time. But, you should double-check local information before traveling there in spring/summer.

In terms of personal safety walking around town, you should have no issues walking the city center after dark, it’s lively and active until midnight; and later on the weekends. Cabs are always nearby too, if you need a quick lift home.

No matter what time of day, be cautious of petty theft and opportunistic crimes like bag and phone snatching by a motorbike zooming past—it’s not common, but nor is it unheard of. There have been problems with muggings for solitary hikers near the Cerro del Fortin auditorium.

Check the U.S. government’s travel warnings to keep abreast of that situation, but mostly don’t be up there after sunset, or alone with expensive gear.

Don’t forget to  book travel insurance for your trip —a great policy provides coverage in case of medical emergencies, lost or stolen gear, adventure sports riders, and more. I’ve used  IMG Global  for more than a decade  highly recommend it !

traditional empanada with mole amarillo and chicken

Pre-Trip Reading Inspiration: Books About Mexico

traveling oaxaca mexico

Fiction & Nonfiction Books About Mexico

  • La Casa de los Secretos : Only available in Spanish, it’s also the only novel I could find set in Oaxaca and sharing the culture and history unique to this area. You should definitely read it before visiting if you can read Spanish.
  • Mexico: Biography of Power : For the history buff, it doesn’t get much better than this comprehensive look at how the centralization of power throughout Mexico’s history has shaped not only the country, but all of Latin America.
  • The Death Of Artemio Cruz : Hailed as a masterpiece and a “haunting voyage into the soul of modern Mexico,” this novel uses the narrator’s flashbacks to process how the country’s past continues to affect the present.
  • Sliced Iguana: Travels in Mexico : On my list for a while now and recommended by readers as an easy read that gives a light touch to all the history and culture she talks about while retelling her journey.
  • The People’s Guide to Mexico : Even veteran Mexico travelers will enjoy this book. It’s like a guidebook, but even more. It’s hands-down the best guidebook you should use to understand the various regions, the cultural quirks, and all the reasons Mexico is a fantastic place to travel and live. Unlike the Lonely Planet recommended above, this one is a cultural guide to the country. It comes highly recommended by me, and by heaps of Amazon reviewers too.
  • Frida at Home : A beautiful and well-researched book on Frida Kahlo, one of Mexico’s well known artists and a national icon. From her early life to her painting and marriage to Diego Rivera, give one a peek into how Mexican culture and landscapes shaped this magnificent woman.

Podcasts and Online Reads About Mexico

  • The Rise of Mezcal: Great for Cocktails, Better for Oaxaca : Mezcal is the favored drink in Oaxaca State, and it’s making waves all over the world too. This is a great read on the history of mezcal and a necessary reading before signing up for your own mezcal tour to a nearby  palenque .
  • Mexico: History and Resistance : A solid podcast that makes listening to the country’s history easy. Download this and prep for your Mexico trip by taking a trip through time.
  • Mexico with kids : Good niche read with a lot of facts and information you might be wondering about family specific travel.

Read all my Mexico travel stories  and find more regional fiction and nonfiction books and long-reads .

Recommended Guidebook

The Moon Guide Oaxaca is your best option. I always carry a paper guidebook so that I can easily read the history of each site while I am there. I also have a travel guide to the Yucatan Peninsula  and Guatemala for those heading that way.

Socially Responsible Travel in Oaxaca, Mexico

Ecotourism trekking and cabañas options around Oaxaca

Socially responsible travel in Mexico is easier than in some parts of the world. The dark side of animal tourism haunts many travelers in Southeast Asia . But in Mexico, responsible tourism focuses more on people than animals (excluding the diving done along the coast!).

Oaxaca is the heart of indigenous Mexico and Oaxaca State has a large concentration of the indigenous cultures—16 different groups with unique customs and languages date back hundreds of years. There are general tactics for responsible travel  anywhere in the world, and those linked tips allow you to lessen your impact on the places you visit.

For Oaxaca specifically, let’s look at the regional activities and treks, as well as how to find responsible volunteering opportunities.

Pick out accommodation on Booking.com.

This is the only booking platform I use because it rewards you for loyalty, and I regularly score free breakfasts and 15% off my hotel.

Trekking & Cabañas

Tomaltepec mountains in the Oaxaca Valley on a sunny day

Oaxaca State is a mountainous region encompassed within the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca. This unique location makes it the ideal place to plan nature hikes and remote homestays within the indigenous communities.

In fact, community-based tourism (CBT) is the number one way to responsibly visit the mountains outside of Oaxaca, as well as the local indigenous cultures. Many of the cabañas are well-appointed too. Some are rustic, but others offer many creature comforts you wouldn’t expect to find in such rural areas.

These communities have invested a lot of money and resources in making their cabañas and towns hospitable to tourism. That said, there is painfully little advice on how to arrange a trek or a weekend at one of the cabañas.

For formal trekking tours, where you go on a proper adventure with guides, Expediciones Sierra Norte  is the best company. Not only are their tours great, but they have sound responsible tourism practices. They have offices in Oaxaca Centro if you want a face-to-face before booking something.

For indie travelers with a bit of Spanish and a sense of adventure, you can book directly with the cabañas located in towns all over the region. Oaxaca Mio offers the best information on each site, what they offer, and contact information. That fantastic yellow map is from its website, and it’s the only one like it that I’ve ever found.

Oaxaca Mio provides information on programs in all the tiny towns, like San Miguel del Valle , which is an uber traditional town where I spent many of my volunteers hours . You can also find information on the nearby  Pueblos Magicos , which are cultural heritage towns singled out by the government as special. The green area on the map, Pueblos Mancomunados , is particularly popular with birders and nature lovers.

responsible tourism oaxaca

Volunteering in Oaxaca

Oaxaca has a range of opportunities for travelers keen to volunteer in the region. Most of the volunteer opportunities require at least a few weeks commitment from volunteers to ensure greatest impact. That said, there are opportunities for short-term projects if you have specialized skills such as any sort of medical or healthcare background, or a background in construction and building-type work.

The indigenous communities outside of Oaxaca often lack access to strong healthcare. For that reason, doctors in any field (medical, dental, ophthalmology, physical therapy, etc) are particularly useful, even in short clinics. If you’re a medical volunteer heading to Oaxaca, you can certainly find an outlet for your skills and knowledge.

Weaving woman I met while volunteering in Oaxaca

There are many large NGOs offering paid programs, but you can easily find indie opportunities that only require you to cover your own room and board for this type of travel. Consider this list of vetted independent volunteer opportunities in Mexico —there are extensive options in Oaxaca State.

Supporting Responsible Businesses

Consider using and visiting these  Mexican social enterprises on your trip . Supporting social enterprises is one of the easiest ways to create a trip with positive impact. This means picking businesses that are using funds to support local communities and to offer training, support, or to protect natural resources.

You can do everything from shop for souvenirs to learning how to make pure chocolate to picking a trekking guide to finding a homestay—all with companies committed to social impact and respect.

Colorful doorway in Oaxaca Centro

World Travel Planning Resources

From the best travel gear to how to pick travel insurance—a detailed list of resources, tips, and advice to help you plan an amazing trip.

Best Things to Do in Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca's alcalá walking street

Oaxaca State is a popular tourist region in Mexico. My list of the Best Things to Do in Oaxaca has the detailed transportation information you’d need to actually visit these places, and covers everything to do in Oaxaca City, and as day or weekend trips into the surrounding mountains and ecotourism hotspots.

If you head to the coast, use this thorough Travel Guide to Puerto Escondido .

My Favorite Oaxaca Travel Experiences:

  • Volunteering with En Vía and learning more about the region’s indigenous cultures and how microfinance is helping them better their lives.
  • Visiting the Zapotec cities and villages east of Oaxaca, like Teotitlán and others.
  • Hanging out with friends in  Oaxaca City’s zócalo in the evenings and soaking in the music, laughter, and happiness.
  • Visiting the stunning frozen waterfalls at Hierve el Agua outside of Oaxaca.
  • Taking photo walks during the golden hour before sunset to capture the gorgeous churches and lively   street scenes and colorful graffiti around the city.

Things to Do in Oaxaca City Center

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción  in the zocolo of Oaxaca City center

In the heart of Mexico, Oaxaca stands as a beacon of cultural richness and diversity, offering a myriad of experiences that blend history, art, and nature into a tapestry of unforgettable moments.

In addition to the traditional things to do, use Que Pasa Oaxaca ‘s event’s guide to see the upcoming shows, lectures, arts performances, and more.

Here’s a curated list of the best things to do :

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

Housed in the beautiful Santo Domingo complex, this museum is a treasure trove of Oaxacan history and culture. Explore exhibits that tell the story of the region from pre-Hispanic times to the present.

Then go book a chocolate workshop run by CACAO Cooperative is a very  small social enterprise still growing its business. It’s a hands-on way to learn every step of the process from a wonderful business.

Templo de Santo Domingo

Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán in the city center of Oaxaca

A marvel of Baroque architecture, the Santo Domingo Temple dazzles with its intricate gold-leaf interior. It’s a testament to the artistic and religious fervor that has shaped Oaxaca.

Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

Adjacent to Santo Domingo, this ethnobotanical garden is a living encyclopedia of Oaxaca’s diverse plant life. It’s a serene escape that highlights the importance of flora in Oaxacan culture.

Mercado Benito Juárez & Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Dive into the heart of Oaxacan life at these bustling markets. They’re a sensory feast of colors, smells, and sounds, offering everything from handicrafts to local delicacies.

Mezcal Tasting

Immerse yourself in the world of mezcal, Oaxaca’s iconic spirit. Visit local distilleries to learn about its production and savor the smoky flavor that captures the essence of the region.

Learning Spanish

Embrace the local language to deepen your connection with Oaxaca. Engaging in Spanish lessons enhances your ability to interact with locals, understand the culture, and navigate the city with greater ease.

Consider ICO  or Oaxaca International . This page also provides a full list of Spanish schools in the city .

Hanging Out in the Zócalo

The Zócalo, Oaxaca’s main square, is the city’s beating heart. Spend time here to soak in the lively atmosphere, observe the daily life of Oaxacans, and perhaps catch impromptu musical performances or local gatherings.

Taking an En Vía Tour

An En Via tour of the oaxaca Valley is one of the best things to do in the city

Participate in an En Vía tour to experience responsible tourism. These social enterprise tours offer insights into local communities, supporting women’s empowerment and sustainable development through microfinance across the Oaxaca Valley . These tours are the single best way to learn about the indigenous cultures in this region of Mexico.

Book a day tour to maximize your time.

GetYourGuide has a phenomenal range of tours, and they’re affordable too. Maximize your time by booking your must-dos as a tour, and then slot in the rest as time permits.

Doing a Mezcal Tour in the Valley

Embark on a mezcal tour in the surrounding valleys. These tours not only allow you to taste various mezcals but also provide a behind-the-scenes look at the traditional methods of mezcal production, deeply rooted in Oaxacan culture.

If you can get a spot, opt for a tour with Omar Alonso , a local Oaxacan running food and mezcal tours in the city .

Shopping for Local Handmade Goods

tapetes from teotitlan de valle.

Oaxaca is a haven for handcrafted goods, especially tapetes (handwoven rugs). Visiting local markets and workshops gives you the chance to purchase these unique items directly from the artisans, supporting their craft and taking home a piece of Oaxacan heritage.

Taking a Cooking Class

Engage in a cooking class to delve into Oaxaca’s renowned culinary scene. Learn to prepare traditional dishes using local ingredients, an experience that offers both a taste of the region’s flavors and an understanding of its culinary traditions.

El Sabor Zapotec is a cooking class run by Reyna Mendoza, one of the women in the En Vía microfinance program, and it’s well done.

Best Day Trips from Oaxaca

Map of things to do in the Oaxaca Valley

Venturing beyond the colorful streets of Oaxaca City reveals a landscape rich with natural wonders and ancient sites, each offering a unique glimpse into the region’s soul.

Use my detailed list of things to do for transportation information on any of the day trips mentioned or highlighted in this Oaxaca Travel Guide. These day trips will enrich your journey with unforgettable experiences—I loved each one of these for its ability to lead me through the tapestry of Oaxaca’s diverse cultures and topography.

Hierve el Agua

the frozen waterfall in oaxaca

Venture to these natural rock formations resembling cascades of water. The mineral-rich springs here create a surreal landscape, perfect for a refreshing dip and awe-inspiring photos.

Explore this archaeological site known for its intricate geometric mosaics. Mitla was a religious center for the Zapotecs and later the Mixtecs, and its unique artistry is a marvel.

taking a mezcal tour in Oaxaca and into the valley is very popular with tourists visiting

Witness the grandeur of the ancient Tule Tree, one of the world’s largest living beings. Its immense girth and age make it a natural wonder and a symbol of endurance.

Teotitlán del Valle

This village is famed for its handwoven textiles. Meet artisans who use traditional techniques to create vibrant rugs and tapestries, each a piece of living heritage.

San Bartolo Coyotepec

Known for its black pottery, this village offers a glimpse into an ancient craft. Discover the skill and artistry behind each piece, shaped and fired using age-old methods.

Monte Albán

Perched atop a mountain, Monte Albán’s ancient ruins offer a window into the lives of the Zapotecs. Wander among the pyramids and tombs, feeling the echoes of a civilization that thrived centuries ago.

Soaring over the ruins of Monte Alban with a visiting friend.

Where to Stay in Oaxaca

Midrange : La Betulia , a charming B&B connected to the En Vía social enterprise , offers a beautifully renovated space in a central location, while El Diablo y La Sandía stands out for its unique touches and warm, family-run hospitality.

Budget : Casa Angel Hostel is the top choice for budget travelers, boasting clean, spacious, and modern private rooms, a communal kitchen, free Wi-Fi, and a lively backpacker atmosphere.

Upscale : For a luxurious stay, consider Hotel La Casona de Tita , known for its tranquil ambiance and homemade breakfasts, or Casa de las Bugambilias , acclaimed for its small charms and exquisite bedrooms.

Where to Eat and Drink

Pan con chocolate served at Majordomo in Oaxaca

I recommend Los Danzantes or Catedral  as the most vegetarian-friendly upscale restaurants. Casa Oaxaca is not a good bet for vegetarians, but is great for others. And I did not eat at Pitiona, another top fusion restaurant in town so I can’t weigh in there but it should be on your radar.

Grab coffee . For a quick coffee, stop at a Café Brújulas—I miss those the berry muffins. My favorite tiny spot is Alma de Cafe  ( Margarita Maza de Juárez 211-A )—it also offers salads, fresh-baked muffins, and cookies.

Drink Mezcal . Mezcalarita is one good option ( Macedonio Alcalá 706 ).  Mezcalogía is perennially popular ( García Vigil 509 ). And if you’re really into the drink, this list is better than many I’ve seen online.

Onward travel

Having spent a number of months backpacking Central America and Mexico across multiple trips, plan your time in the following locations.

Mexico » Yucatan Peninsula | Yucatan with Kids | Oaxaca City | San Pancho | Guanajuato | Chichen Itza | Secret Mud Beach | Cultural Immersion | Taco History | Colonial Mexico

Guatemala » Antigua | Tikal | Rio Dulce | Xela | Chichicastenango | Learning Spanish | Semana Santa | Easter Traditions

Belize » Chetumal Border | Culture

Honduras » Copan Ruinas | Utila | Culture

Essential Travel Planning Resources

❗ Yes, you need travel insurance . IMG Global is the travel insurance I’ve used for well over a decade of traveling solo, and with kids. Here’s why .

🧳 Smart packing can save your trip. Shop my favorite travel gear , including all of the packing essentials for world travel , gear to keep you safe on the road, my favorite travel books , and more.

🛏️ Find great accommodation . Booking.com is essentially the only hotel booking site that I use. It has a wide and affordable selection of traditional hotels, but also hostels and vacation rentals, too. Use these pro tips to find the best travel accommodation .

📍 Navigate more effectively. Rome2Rio is super handy to assess the full range of transport options between two cities—shows everything from flights to trains, buses, minibuses, and more. If you’re booking a rental car, I’ve always found the best deals on RentalCars.com .

✈️ Book affordable flights. Expedia is one of the first places I look for low-cost flights .

☕ Peruse all of my tips for round the world travel , or learn how to move and live abroad .

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Oaxaca blog — the fullest oaxaca travel guide for a great trip for first-timers.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca once ranked 5th in the 7 most wonderful cities in the world in 2019 voted by Travel + Leisure magazine. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage city. Coming here, international visitors are often especially impressed with the interesting eco-tourism places. Oaxaca is famous for its bioluminescent beaches, majestic mountains and interesting archaeological sites. Cuisine and unique cultures of indigenous people are also what attracts visitors. Heading to the south you will find breathtakingly beautiful beaches. If you are passionate about surfing, these are the coordinates you need to looking for. So, what to do and how to plan a budget perfect trip to Oaxaca city, Mexico for the first-time? Let’s check out our Oaxaca travel blog (Oaxaca blog) with the fullest Oaxaca travel guide (Oaxaca guide) from how to get, best time to come, where to stay, best places to visit and top things to do to find out the answer!

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oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca blog: A brief history of Oaxaca

According to history, the first owners of the Oaxaca Plateau were the Olmecs (1200 BC), then the Zapotecs (800 BC), followed by the arrival of the Mixtecs.

As latecomers, continually waged wars, the Mixtecs sought to recapture fertile lands from the Zapotecs, so that both peoples were overthrown by the Aztecs, and in the mid-16th century those White Hispanic skin appeared, subdued the Indians, built a small beautiful city of Oaxaca with a bold colonial architecture.

oaxaca travel tips

The Spanish colonial government assigned the design of the city to architect Alonso Garcia Bravo, the best urban planner in the country at that time, as well as the architect of the Mexican capital and the city of Veracruz.

When building Zócalo – the city center square, Alonso Garcia Bravo focused on creating a balance and harmony between the cathedral on the one hand and the city government building on the opposite side. Thus, from the central square, the harmony between religion and life will spread, covering the lives of people throughout the city.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca blog: Overview of Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a beautiful city located in the southern region of Mexico. To the west of Oaxaca it borders with the state of Guerrero, to the northwest borders with Puebla, to the north borders with Veracruz and to the east borders with Chiapas. The state of Oaxaca covers an area of ​​about 93 thousand square kilometers (93.952 km²) with a population of about 4 million people (2020). Currently Oaxaca is the largest city in the state of Oaxaca with an area of ​​85.48 km² and a population of about 705.000 people. The city of Oaxaca has many majestic mountains and is also considered one of the most rugged terrain cities of Mexico.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca not only has a beautiful landscape but also has a history of hundreds of years of establishment and development. Therefore, when you come to Oaxaca city, you will have the opportunity to visit many famous architectural works. In 1987, the city of Oaxaca was also recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site.

oaxaca travel tips

Located in southern Mexico, Oaxaca is the center of pre-Hispanic culture and today’s modern culture. Partially covering the southern coast of Mexico, this UNESCO World Heritage City has both natural and man-made beauty. It is most famous for its breathtaking natural sceneries, distinctive culinary flavors, endearing and simple indigenous peoples and traditional culture, as well as its vibrant and brilliant arts along with traditional craft villages. All of these have created a unique tourist attraction in this city. When you set foot here, make sure to discover some colorful colonial architecture as well as the many unspoiled coastlines, dense forests and spectacular waterfalls around it.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca travel blog: When is the best time to visit Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is located in an area influenced by the tropical climate. The climate in Oaxaca is also variable with altitude. You should come here between April and May, or September to October every year. These are two times when the weather in Oaxaca is quite pleasant. The number of tourists coming to Oaxaca at these times is not too crowded. The peak tourist season of Oaxaca is in summer from June to August every year as well as the holiday season between December and early January. This time, visitors flock to Oaxaca are very crowded, leading to the increase costs of room rates and services as well. So if you want to save money, you should not go at this time.

oaxaca travel tips

Unforgettable festivals

Every year, every July, Oaxaca begins with a jubilant atmosphere of festivals. An unique and most famous festival that attracts thousands of tourists and people from all parts of the country to gather here to have fun and participate in is the “Guelaguetza” festival. This festival comes from the meaning of “giving and sharing”, sending gifts to each other with the participation of many ethnic groups in Mexico, each group will wear their own ethnic costumes and perform their private dance in the bright colors of wreaths on their heads.

Guelaguetza Festival parade - Oaxaca

There is also a traditional Corn Husk Festival with the participation of skillful artisans who have created unique products with their hands.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca travel guide: How to get to Oaxaca?

You can fly directly to Oaxaca via Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX). However, unfortunately from Vietnam, there is no airline operating the route to Oaxaca. If you want to fly you must transit in Mexico City then continue to fly to Oaxaca.

oaxaca travel tips

Bus is also a type of transport that many visitors choose when they want to traveling from Mexico City to Oaxaca city. You can go to the TAPO Bus Station (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente) (Address: Calz. Ignacio Zaragoza 200, 10 de Mayo, Venustiano Carranza, 15290 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico) and take the ADO bus . There are many daily buses running from TAPO to Oaxaca to serve the needs of tourists with an average travel time from 5h50m – 6h50m and bus ticket price ranging from $13 – $29.

oaxaca travel tips

To getting around Oaxaca City, you can take the bus, taxi, bike. Especially you can take a walk because the city center is quite small but concentrating many main tourist attractions.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca blog: Where to go and what to do in Oaxaca?

oaxaca travel tips

Zocalo Square

Not only a famous tourist place, but also Zocalo Square is considered a symbol of the city of Oaxaca. This square is located right in the central area of ​​the city. For a long time, Zocalo Square has become an ideal picnic destination for the people of Oaxaca and tourists.

oaxaca travel tips

The Church of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman

Having visited Zocalo square, surely you can not help but visit Oaxaca church of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman. This is a beautiful old church located in the northwestern part of ​​Zocalo Square. The church was officially started construction in the 16th century. However, it took over 200 years to be completed. Visiting Oaxaca church, you will have the opportunity to see an splendid ancient architectural work with extremely sophisticated carvings. Each wall, column, or window frame, and decorative paintings are delicately carved to attract the eye. Spend time visiting the unique church, visitors will immerse themselves in mysterious stories, enjoy a rare peaceful space.

oaxaca travel tips

Address: Calle Macedonio Alcalá s/n, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico Opened: 1731 Architectural styles: Baroque, Baroque architecture

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca (Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca)

If you want to learn about the long-standing culture of Oaxaca, perhaps the Museum of Cultures of Oaxaca is a great place for you. This museum is housed an old monastery which was built in the 1600s. Here you will have the opportunity to admire many precious antiques. The most special one must mention a skull made of extremely precious pearls.

oaxaca travel tips

Address: 1a. Cerrada de Macedonio Alcala s/n, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico Hours: 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Price: Adult/Child under 13yr M$75/free, Guided tour per hour M$600

Visit and take photos of colorful ancient buildings

The architecture of Oaxaca will make you impressed as soon as you arrive, especially for those who love “virtual living”. Spend some time walking on the streets and admire the stylish, colorful houses and buildings. This is a great way to have discovered the hidden gems of Oaxaca. You will also find some interesting street arts as you explore the city.

oaxaca travel tips

Try out traditional Mexican costume in Oaxaca

Traditional Mexican costume comes in a variety of colors and is extremely interesting. For traditional textiles, you can visit shops: Huarache, Joyas de Oaxaca and Mercado de Artesanías de Oaxaca. Shops in the city also offer a wide variety of goods for you to enjoy shopping like bags, shoes, jewelry, rugs and souvenirs to bring back.

oaxaca travel tips

An unforgettable Monte Alban

Coming to Oaxaca, you cannot help but go the “Monte Alban” area, a hilltop holy place built by the Zapotecs in the 7th century BC. Surrounding it there are many mound builders stretching along four sides with a large square in the middle with the central courtyard used as a place to conduct rituals or community political activities.

oaxaca travel tips

Around the sanctuary are complexes of tombs, shrines and other public works that testify to a work that will last forever.

Periods: Middle Preclassic to Terminal Classic Designated as world heritage site: 1987 (11th session)

The Petrified Waterfalls of Hierve el Agua

It will be extremely regrettable if you travel to Oaxaca without visiting Hierve de Agua. This is the only petrified waterfall in the world today. Here you will admire an amazing natural scene. Hierve de Agua meaning “boiling water” is considered a rare phenomenon, the waterfall stream freezes in the middle of the hot weather.

oaxaca travel tips

Address: Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, Mexico Hours: 9AM–6PM Friday, Saturday, Sunday: Closed

Shopping at the markets

To immerse yourself in the life of the indigenous people on your Oaxaca trip, you will be extremely excited while walking around the bustling local markets. Colorful rows of houses lead us to the market – where many elaborate handicrafts are traded, colorful traditional dresses to delicious specialties, and ingredients to create many other delicious dishes. If you intend to shop at the market, do not hesitate to bargain to freely bring all kinds of gifts for relatives and friends.

oaxaca travel tips

I am really impressed by the colorful streets, busy markets, and the variety of traditional handicrafts. If you are a lover of handmade products, you will not be able to take your eyes off the dolls wearing traditional dresses made by the sellers themselves or the colorful aluminum mirrors or the traditional dresses are embroidered by hand.

In the markets, what caught my attention the most was the chili selling area. At first, I only envisioned they are red and green peppers with different sizes of large and small, but when I came here I realized that there were more than 100 different types of chili peppers. Green, yellow, red, round, long, big, and dry chili peppers are all over the market. This also explains why Mexico is one of the most famous culinary countries in the world thanks to the variety of ingredients and the characteristic spicy taste of dishes.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca is full of busy markets, very interesting to wander and explore. Just to the south of Zocalo square is a great place to explore 20 de Noviembre Market (Address: 20 de Noviembre 512, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico/Hours: 7AM–9PM) and Benito Juarez Market (Address: Las Casas S/N, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico/Hours: 7AM–9PM). La Merced Market (Mercado Merced Comidas) (Address: Rosario 104, La Merced, Zona Centro, Venustiano Carranza, 15100 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico/Hours: 8AM–6PM) is a food market, a favorite place for gourmet.

oaxaca travel tips

Other prominent places to visit in Oaxaca:

  • Carmen Alto Church built in the 17th century.
  • The weekly village Tianguis  specializes in selling red ceramic crafts.
  • San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya church was built in the 16th century by the Dominican people.
  • Lambityeco area used to be one of the most important trading centers of the Zapotecs.
  • The village of Santa Ana del Valle still retains the traditional handicrafts such as oil paintings, wool products.
  • Tlacolula flea market meeting every Sunday morning.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca blog: What to eat?

oaxaca travel tips

Food always has a strange attraction in every trip and so does Oaxaca. The first taste impression of this city is its quirkyness. Being a blend of many countries Spain, Arab and Asia, the cuisine of Oaxaca is rich in aromatic, flavor and creativity creates unique, delicious dishes. Oaxaca is famous for dishes about insects such as grasshoppers, ants, larvae; the simple bread is perfect for a convenient breakfast and other delicious sweet and savory foods. The attractive foods of Oaxaca will surely make you not forget about this land.

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca has a strong chocolate and cocoa culture, so you can’t miss the chance to enjoy this flavor. Chocolate is sold in markets and is an important part of the traditional Mexican diet in this area. Chocolate drinks are served daily and also for special ceremonies and events. Try an Oaxacan-style chocolate drink to see the difference and originality!

oaxaca travel tips

Some foods you should try in Oaxaca

  • Tlayudas : A traditional street food from Oaxaca, are oversized corn tortillas topped with beans, cheese, meats and vegetables.
  • Huitlacoche Corn Fungus Tacos
  • Enfrijoladas : Mexican enchiladas covered in a black bean sauce stuffed with cheese and ready in only 15 minutes!
  • Memelas (Memelitas) : Grilled thin masa cakes topped with beans, salsa, cabbage, guacamole and cheese.
  • Tetelas : Tasty triangle-shaped corn masa treats that are stuffed with black beans and cooked on a griddle.
  • Tacos : Signature dish of Mexico are made with a variety of fillings, including beef, pork, chicken, seafood, beans, vegetables, and cheese, allowing for great versatility and variety.
  • Tamales : Made of masa or dough which is steamed in a corn husk or banana leaf.
  • Tamales Oaxaqueños (or Tamales Hoja)

oaxaca travel tips

Oaxaca travel blog: Where to stay?

Below we recommend more best cheap, budget, mid-range and upscale hotels with good ratings and reviews you can refer to..

  • Quinta Real Oaxaca , a top rated 5-star hotel with room rates from $259/night (Check rates on Agoda.com or Booking.com ).
  • Hotel Casona Oaxaca , a top rated 4-star hotel with room rates from $105/night (Check rates on Agoda.com or Booking.com ).
  • Hotel Las Golondrinas , a top rated 3-star hotel with room rates from $69/night (Check rates on Agoda.com or Booking.com ).
  • NaNa Vida Hotel Oaxaca , a top rated 3-star hotel with room rates from $76/night (Check rates on Agoda.com or Booking.com ).
  • Holiday Inn Express Centro Historico Oaxaca , a top rated 3-star hotel with room rates from $145/night (Check rates on Agoda.com or Booking.com ).

oaxaca travel tips

Some best day tours, trips, activities and transfer services, tickets in, from and to Oaxaca you can refer to

  • Full-Day Tour of Oaxaca
  • Oaxaca: Half-Day City Tour
  • Oaxaca: Monte Alban Guided Archaeological Tour
  • Huatulco Bay: Bahías Boat Tour & Snorkeling Experience
  • From Oaxaca: Oaxaca, Mitla, Hierve el Agua & Mezcal Factory
  • Visit the Bays of Huatulco by Boat
  • Oaxaca: Ocotlan de Morelos Cultural Experience and Tour

oaxaca travel tips

Above is the fullest Oaxaca travel guide, hope it help you planning a wonderful trip to the most colorful city in Mexico. Check out more things to do in Oaxaca here . Happy traveling!

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Oaxaca   Travel Guide

oaxaca travel tips

Courtesy of Maria Swärd | Getty Images

oaxaca travel tips

Why Go To Oaxaca

Oaxaca – pronounced wa-HAH-ka – is both the name of this Mexican state and its capital city. Here, you'll find colonial streets lined with shade trees, vibrant markets filled with artisans and mouthwatering aromas drifting from market food stalls and trendy eateries. These days, many claim that Oaxaca is Mexico's newest culinary capital. But that's not to say the city has forgotten its rich history, which dates back to the ancient Zapotecs that once occupied the now preserved ruins at Monte Albán . In fact, many of the handicrafts and recipes, which make Oaxaca such a unique place to visit and shop, have been carried down from generation to generation. 

There are also abundant opportunities for daytrip excursions – and a host of reliable tour operators to guide you – if you want to stretch your legs for a hike and dip in the mineral baths at Hierve el Agua or wander the agave fields at a Mitla mezcal distillery. 

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  • # 10 in Best Cheap Mexico Vacations

Best of Oaxaca

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  • # 1 in Quinta Real Oaxaca
  • # 2 in Grand Fiesta Americana Oaxaca
  • # 3 in Hotel Azul Oaxaca

Quinta Real Oaxaca

Best Things to Do in Oaxaca

  • # 1 in The Zócalo
  • # 2 in Templo de Santo Domingo
  • # 3 in Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

Popular Tours

Hierve el Agua, Tule Tree, Mitla and Mezcal Distillery Tour

Hierve el Agua, Tule Tree, Mitla and Mezcal Distillery Tour

(636 reviews)

from $ 45.00

Monte Alban Guided Half Day Tour

Monte Alban Guided Half Day Tour

(337 reviews)

from $ 33.47

Only Hierve el Agua and Mezcal Distillery Tour

Only Hierve el Agua and Mezcal Distillery Tour

(271 reviews)

from $ 50.00

Oaxaca Travel Tips

Best months to visit.

The best times to visit Oaxaca are during the months of April to May and September to October. Both spring and fall are characterized by moderate temperatures and fewer tourists. The months between June and August, as well as the holiday season between mid-December and early-January, constitute high season. For the most part, the winter months – November to March – are considered low season, except for the few weeks that fall across the winter holidays. 

Weather in Oaxaca

Data sourced from the National Climatic Data Center

What You Need to Know

Head up to go north The city slants downward from north to south as you approach the Zócalo , so if you're ever disoriented, heading uphill will take you north.

Time is relative  Oaxaca marches at its own pace, so don't expect anything – from buses to tours – to be running right on time.

Pick up some souvenirs Oaxaca originals include Zapotec rugs and tapestries, as well as wooden carvings called alebrijes .

How to Save Money in Oaxaca

Bargain shop If you speak Spanish, talk to the Mexican traders about paying a few less pesos on wares like rugs, ceramics, alebrijes (wooden carvings) and silver jewelry.

Nosh in the markets Buying some of your meals in the open-air markets, such as Mercado Benito Juarez , will cut down on costs, but make sure that you wash any produce with bottled water to avoid stomach woes.

Avoid the big events Travel in the late-winter low season and steer clear of popular events, such as the Day of the Dead, which drive up hotel prices.

Culture & Customs

What was once home to the thriving Mixtec and Zapotec civilizations is now a thrumming culinary capital with a strong hipster vibe. Its main industry is tourism. 

Oaxaca's official currency is the peso: 1 peso is equal to roughly 5 cents. Since the Mexican peso to U.S. dollar exchange rate fluctuates, plan to  check the conversion rate before you go . You should also keep in mind that not all businesses and restaurants take credit cards, so be sure to check in advance. And when it comes to tipping in "the land of the seven moles," keep in mind that 10 to 15 percent in restaurants and hotels is a good rule of thumb. 

Spanish is the official language spoken in Oaxaca. As long as you know a few key phrases, such as buenos dias (good morning), por favor (please) and gracias (thank you), you should be able to get around this tourist-friendly city just fine. 

Oaxaca is considered one of the safest states in Mexico, but as with any big city, it does experience petty crimes. Tourists can keep pickpockets at bay by keeping money tucked away and securely out of sight. 

What to Eat

Oaxaca has several specialties that no visitor should miss, but a word to the wise: a strong stomach is required. One of those specialties is a chili-based sauce, called mole. In fact, Oaxaca is nicknamed "The Land of the Seven Moles" for the many different types of sauce produced here, which can range in color, from black to yellow; in ingredients, from chocolate to almonds; and in heat level, from mild to super spicy. Another Oaxacan specialty is mezcal, which is a spirit similar to tequila, served in a glass rimmed with a concoction of spices and ground worms and lime wedges. 

And when it comes to a full meal in this foodie capital, travelers say you really can't go wrong. The market stalls are just as delicious as the formal establishments. For breakfast, try Café Casa Oaxaca located on Calle Jazmines, a little more than 2 miles from the Zócalo. A stone's throw from the Templo de Santo Domingo is Oaxacan celebrity chef Alejandro Ruiz's Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante . To sample moles, head to Las Quince Letras , which is just a couple blocks from the Templo de Santo Domingo on Calle Abasolo. And for some cheap-yet-delicious street foods, look no further than Itanoni Flor del Maiz located on a quick taxi ride from central Oaxaca on Avenue Belisario Dominguez.

Getting Around Oaxaca

The best way to get around Oaxaca is on foot, especially if you're sticking to the tourist areas in downtown Oaxaca. To travel farther afield, buses or taxis are fairly affordable ways of getting around, though keep in mind that they're not known for efficiency. A rental car will give you the flexibility to travel on your own time, yet might not be the best option for someone unfamiliar to the area and the road rules.

The closest airport is Aeropuerto Internacional de Oaxaca (OAX), which is located about 5 miles south of Oaxaca City. You can reach the city by taxi, bus or rental car. 

Colonial Oaxaca is a filled with unexpected color. 

Explore More of Oaxaca

Templo de Santo Domingo

Things To Do

Best hotels.

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AFAR Logo - Main

Oaxaca is a vibrant colonial city with rich indigenous roots. It has bustling marketplaces, lively fiestas, and wonderful folk art traditions. It’s a place with a fascinating history. The capital of Zapotec civilization was located on the nearby mountaintop now known as Monte Albán. Later, the Dominicans built some of their most impressive churches and convents here. A city of color, movement, and sound, as well as a cornucopia of flavors, Oaxaca also offers ample tranquil spaces where you can quietly enjoy the natural and cultural beauty of this magical area.

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Photo Courtesy of Brian Finke

When’s the best time to go to Oaxaca?

Oaxaca enjoys a pleasant climate year-round. The warmest months are usually April and May, when daytime temps can reach into the 90s, but since it is a dry heat, it’s invariably pleasant in the shade. The rainy season begins in late spring and continues through to early fall. You can expect rain in the afternoons during that time of year, but it’s not a bad time to visit: dry, brown landscapes turn lush and green. The coolest months are December and January, when nights and mornings are decidedly chilly, but daytimes are warm and sunny.

How to get around Oaxaca

Oaxaca’s international airport (OAX) receives several flights a day from Mexico City, and one daily flight from Houston. There is limited air connection from other Mexican destinations; discount airline VivaAerobus offers a few direct flights a week from Cancun and Monterrey. Bus connections are more plentiful. ADO bus company runs first-class service from the TAPO bus station in Mexico City, and frequent buses run from other Mexican destinations.

Oaxaca’s historic center is easy to get around on foot. The city plan is simple to navigate, with streets changing name north and south of Independencia, and east and west of Alcalá. Taxis are an inexpensive way to get to sites farther afield. They don’t use a meter, so it’s best to agree on a price before you get in. Taxis can be hired by the hour for sightseeing trips; or, for more information as you go, hire a guide. Public buses are cheap (6 pesos), but it can be difficult to find the routes, and there are no set schedules.

Can’t miss things to do in Oaxaca

Sit side by side with locals on a metal bench or plastic stool at one of the many street food stands throughout the city. Forget about gourmet restaurants: these stands are where some of the city’s best food is served, and the friendly banter of your dining companions will be hard to beat.

Food and drink to try in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s best foodie destinations, and many of the regional dishes date back to pre-Hispanic times. Its culinary offerings include a wide variety of corn-based dishes, and the local gastronomy also makes good use of the huge array of chiles grown in the state. Mole sauces are a specialty; you’ll hear about seven different moles, but there are in fact more. Oaxaca is a major mezcal producing center, and tasting the endless varieties is a popular pastime.

Culture in Oaxaca

The historic center of Oaxaca city and Monte Albán archaeological site were declared Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 1987, but the city’s living culture is as vibrant and colorful as its storied past. The indigenous markets and traditional celebrations have changed little since ancient times and offer a glimpse into Oaxaca’s deep cultural traditions.

Colorful fiestas happen throughout the year, and even when there’s not a major holiday, it seems there is always something to celebrate. Some of the most representative festivals are Day of the Dead (at the end of October and beginning of November), Night of the Radishes (December 23), and the Guelaguetza festival (last half of July). Oaxaca’s fiestas represent the rich and diverse cultural legacy of the Oaxacan people, and visitors are more than welcome to join in the festivities.

Local travel tips for Oaxaca

Protest marches and roadblocks are not uncommon in Oaxaca. They may hamper your ability to keep to a schedule or accomplish everything you’ve set out to do, but they are by and large peaceful.

Local Resources

  • Visit Mexico
  • OaxacaTravel

Guide Editor

Suzanne Barbezat

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Travel To Oaxaca

Your ultimate guide to oaxaca, mexico.

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Welcome, I’m Shelley …

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I have lived in Mexico since 2018, and visited 19 out of 32 states so far (many as a solo female traveler). At this point, you might say I’m a Mexpert!

Today, I use my knowledge & insider tips to help travelers just like you plan the Mexico trip of your dreams, travel to Mexico confidently & safely, and cross Mexico off your bucket list.

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There's No Better Time Than Now To Visit Oaxaca, Mexico!

A lot of tourists search for a mesmerizing city that is not overly large yet offers a ton of attractions and cultural experiences, so Oaxaca is the place to go. One of the greatest destinations to visit in Mexico , it offers a wide variety of activities to keep tourists occupied. The ideal place to begin a trip to this bewitching state in southern Mexico is in its capital, which bears the same name.

There are many good reasons to adore Oaxaca! It is home to some of the most intriguing colonial buildings, is extremely rich in heritage and culture, and serves as the center of Mexican cuisine.

Thousands of grandiose archeological sites are also present, including some of the most significant indigenous Mixtec and Zapotec civilizations.

UPDATE: 2023/08/19 15:06 EST BY NOAH STAATS

This article now has ten things to do while in Oaxaca, Mexico, as well as other tips for a trip to the region. From historical sites to local markets to stunning natural scenery, Oaxaca is the place to be this fall and beyond!

Things To Do in Oaxaca

In Oaxaca, tourists may spend a few days seeing the city, sampling the local food , and going on excursions. They may also see the cathedrals and museums during a brief stay at Oaxaca City, go on day trips to historic sites, enjoy regional cuisine, and even take part in a traditional event. Here is the ultimate travel guide to Oaxaca.

1 Stop By The Mercado Benito Juárez

  • Address: Las Casas S/N, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Monday - Friday from 9 AM to 5 PM

Something to do while in Oaxaca is to visit the locally-renowned Mercado Benito Juárez . Here is where tourists can find a lively marketplace selling produce, prepared foods, crafts, and textiles.

This is the perfect way to support local businesses while traveling here.

2 Learn About Textiles At The Museo Textil de Oaxaca

  • Address: Miguel Hidalgo 917, Centro Histórico, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Monday - Friday from 10 AM to 8 PM and Saturday from 11 AM to 8 PM (Sunday from 11 AM to 6 PM)

For history lovers traveling through Oaxaca, Mexico, heading over to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca is a nice way to spend an afternoon. Here is where someone can learn more about Mexico's rich textile industry and workshops for adults and kids. Entry is free as well.

3 Cool Off At The Hierve el Agua

  • Address: Hierve el Agua, 70477 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Open daily from 7 AM to 6:30 PM

Next up, tourists to the Oaxaca area can check out the Hierve el Agua, a set of natural travertine rock formations in San Lorenzo Albarradas, Oaxaca.

These natural formations resemble a waterfall and see many visitors each year. Therefore, it might be worth it to head out in the earlier morning.

4 Walk Around Plaza de la Danza

  • Address: C. 2 de Abril, CALZADA MADERO, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Open 24 hours

For those wanting some fresh air, checking out Plaza de la Danza is a great option. Here is where tourists and locals can experience a city park in Oaxaca, boasting the political heart of the city.

This square with a large flag borders the Municipal Palace, so that's something else to see too.

5 Enjoy The Theater At Microenormous

  • Address: C. de Manuel García Vigil 714, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Dependent on the show

Another idea for guests of Oaxaca is to check out the futuristic performing arts center entitled Microenormous . Here is where visitors can enjoy an experiential and multi-sensory platform that uses ART in all its expressions to increase attention and awareness of everyday objects and rituals.

6 Tour The Historic Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad

  • Address: Av. de la Independencia 107, CALZADA MADERO, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Subject to availability and tour

For anyone wanting to see an ancient basilica, touring the famous Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad is worth considering. Here lies a Roman Catholic Basilica located in Oaxaca de Juárez, Oaxaca, Mexico.

It was built between 1682 and 1690 and is a sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Solitude, patron saint of Oaxaca.

7 Monte Alban, Zocalo

  • Location: Oaxaca, ‎Mexico‎
  • Region: Valley of Oaxaca

One thing to do while in Oaxaca, MX, is visit the Monte Album ruins. Here is where guests can explore the ruins of an ancient center of Zapotec and Mixtec culture, located in what is now Oaxaca state, Mexico.

These have been around since the 8th century BCE, so they're a must-see.

8 Templo de Santo Domingo

  • Address: Calle de Santiago Tapia 414 Ruta Independencia, Oaxaca 68000 Mexico
  • Hours: 7 AM to 1 PM and 4 to 7:30 PM, Monday through Saturday.

The next thing to do while in Oaxaca is to venture over to Templo de Santo Domingo. This is a historic church in the region, boasting stunning architecture and active masses.

Sundays are when worship typically occurs, so keep that in mind when heading over.

9 Ethnobotanical Garden

  • Address: Reforma Sur n, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Open every day but Sunday from 10 AM to 1 PM and reopens from 3-6 PM

The next thing to experience in Oaxaca is the Ethnobotanical Garden , a stunning botanical garden in Oaxaca City, Mexico. It spans 2.32 acres of land adjacent to the Church of Santo Domingo. It is managed by the state government of Oaxaca.

10 Oaxaca Cultural Museum

  • Address: 1a. Cerrada de Macedonio Alcala s/n, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
  • Hours: Tuesday - Friday from 10 AM to 3 PM

Another idea for a day in Oaxaca, Mexico, is heading over to the famous Oaxaca Cultural Museum . Here is where people can explore the cultural center housing archaeological artifacts and ancient books in a 17th-century convent.

Most people spend about two hours exploring here.

11 The Best Time To Visit Oaxaca

Oaxaca has both a dry season and a wet season due to its subtropical climate. Travelers can visit it all year round as there are not any significant cold or heat waves or four different seasons. Expect moderate temperatures, low humidity, and more than 300 days of sunlight each year in Oaxaca due to its location.

The best time to visit Oaxaca can vary depending on the tourist, even though Oaxaca can be considered a year-round destination. October to early May is considered the dry season.

The days in October and November are often pleasant, but after the sun sets, the temperature begins to decrease.

  • Best season: Dry season, especially October through April.

12 Best Ways To Get Around Oaxaca, Mexico

Explore the best of oaxaca on foot.

Walking is the greatest method to move about Oaxaca, especially if tourists stay in the touristy parts of the city. Oaxaca City is pedestrian-friendly, particularly along its Andador de Macedonia Alcala walkway.

Discover The Fabulous Oaxaca By Public Transit

Buses or taxis are reasonably priced options for getting around. Most destinations in Oaxaca City and State may be reached by bus, and they are relatively inexpensive. For instance, from the Hotel Rivera del Angel on Mina Street, tourists may take a bus to Monte Alban.

Visitors can also take a cab if they do not want to wait around for a bus. Make sure to only take cabs that are stationed at specified locations, known as sitios.

  • Cost: A one-way bus ticket costs $0.5. As for taxis, it starts at $2.2 and increases by $0.83 per mile.

Rent A Car To Tour Oaxaca

A rented car will allow tourists to go at their own pace; it might not be the greatest choice for someone who is not familiar with the area or the driving laws. Aeropuerto Internacional de Oaxaca (OAX), which is about 5 miles (8 km) south of Oaxaca City, is the closest airport. Travelers may use a cab, bus, or rented automobile to get to the city.

Related: 10 Things To Do When Visiting Oaxaca, Mexico

13 Where To Eat And Drink In Oaxaca, Mexico

In Oaxaca, there is no shortage of outstanding restaurants. The city is widely recognized for using cacao beans to make some of the tastiest moles in all of Mexico . A culinary tour is one of the most well-liked excursions in Oaxaca, which is a testimonial to the incredible cuisine available there.

From one street to the next, the flavors of international, traditional, and fusion food pleasantly meld. Additionally, tourists may discover the Mexican favorite street food, which is really excellent and beautifully cooked! Undoubtedly, Oaxaca's eateries will take people’s regular appetites on a delectable excursion.

  • Perfect restaurants for breakfast: Chepiche Café, Pan: am Oaxaca, Las Chilmoleras, Filemon
  • Best eateries for lunch and dinner: Catedral Restaurant, Los Danzantes, Casa Taviche, Boulenc, Ocote Cocina, El Quinque
  • Excellent bars: Cozana, La Mezcaloteca, Mezcalogia, Zapotec Mixology Bar, La Santísima Flor de Lúpulo

Related: 10 Best Mexican Dishes You Must Try

14 Where To Stay In Oaxaca, Mexico

Finding a place to stay in Oaxaca is easy no matter travelers' budgets.

Choose One Of The Luxury Hotels

If tourists want to feel like Mexican royalty, Hotel Palacio Borghese is the place to opt for.

  • Cost: $333 per night for two adults in a deluxe king bedroom

They can also spend their night at Casa Antonieta , an opulent hotel in the heart of the city housed in the most charming colonial structure. Yet, it has been updated with a contemporary, hipster ambiance.

  • Cost: $276 per night for two adults in a deluxe double room

The Quinta Real Oaxaca Hotel is located inside the Santa Catalina de Siena Convent, a 16th-century structure that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it offers an exceptional, romantic, and all-around wonderful experience.

  • Cost: $217 per night for two adults in Novicia King Bedroom

Opt For One Of The Mid-Range Hotels For Your Trip To Oaxaca

Artistic tourists will adore the colorful accents and gorgeous design in this charming tiny hotel in the heart of the city, the NaNa Vida Hotel Oaxaca .

  • Cost: $126 per night for two adults in a deluxe double room

La Casa de Pino is also a great option for tourists looking for a mid-range hotel.

  • Cost: $94 per night for two adults in a one-bedroom apartment

Tourists looking for outstanding value, welcoming staff, and a great location can go to Hotel Casa de la Tia Tere .

  • Cost: $77 per night for two adults in a double room

Save Money By Booking Budget Hotels

If travelers do not mind staying in a dormitory, Hostel Selina Oaxaca is an amazing place.

  • Cost: $16 per night for one adult per bed in a large dorm

Hostal de las Americas is another option for the travelers’ night in Oaxaca. They can stay in a private room or a dormitory.

  • Cost: $51 per night for two adults in a large double room or $14 for one adult in a dormitory.

The final budget hotel suggestion is Andaina Youth Hostel .

  • Cost: $28 per night for two adults in a double room with a shared bathroom.

15 Budgeting And Pesos In Oaxaca

For a single tourist, a 7-day vacation to Oaxaca costs, on average, $1,237; for a couple, $2,222; and for a family of four, $4,165. A private room in hotels in Oaxaca costs between $37 and $350 per night.

To go to Xoxocotlan International Airport (OAX) , the average international flight expenses per person range from $606 to $1,196 for economy class and from $1,902 to $3,753 for first class.

Depending on the day's activities, travelers are advised to allocate between $39 and $54 per person each day for travel and dining at nearby establishments.

Related: Have 200 Pesos? Here’s What You Can Buy In Mexico

Credit or debit cards are required, but tourists should always carry cash as some businesses do not accept cards. Mexican pesos are withdrawn from ATMs together with a standard 3% foreign transaction fee.

Foreign currency exchange services are available at the city's international airport and the Zócalo, or central plaza.

16 Tips For Visiting Oaxaca

One of the safest cities in Mexico is considered Oaxaca. Violence and thievery associated with drugs or tourists are not present here. Nevertheless, it is always advisable to exercise personal safety and to remain vigilant of your surroundings.

To be safe, travelers should always take a taxi home after a night out. Unless tourists are going to or from the airport, they should avoid carrying all of their belongings with them. It is also better to leave the passport at the hotel and to just bring enough cash to cover the perceived needs.

Additionally, it is always preferable to stroll beside a companion or a small group when travelers can.

  • In case of emergency: If there is a crisis, tourists should call 911. If that is unsuccessful, call 066.

17 How To Spend The Perfect Day In Oaxaca, Mexico

To have a perfect day in Oaxaca, tourists shall not miss any of the recommended activities. They shall start by exploring Oaxaca's history by visiting the ruins and the Museum of Cultures. Then, They have to try some regional specialties. The food in this Mexican city is incredible and mouthwatering. Later, take in the atmosphere of the Zocalo.

Finally, no trip to Oaxaca is complete without drinking some mezcal.

Oaxaca Travel Guide

Mexico › Oaxaca Updated: March 2, 2022

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Piñata on street in Oaxaca Mexico

Oaxaca is a historic city in Mexico, and one of our absolute favorite places to go in the country. Oaxaca is best known for its colonial architecture, unique cuisine (especially its mole sauces), markets, and its rich indigenous cultures (especially Zapotec and Mixtec).

Frequently Asked Questions about Oaxaca

oaxaca gazebo plaza

The gazebo at the center of the main plaza in the center of Oaxaca.

Where is Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is a city in Mexico, serving as the capital of the southeastern state of Oaxaca. The city lies at the heart of the state in the Valles Centrales region, on the edge of the Sierra Madre. Oaxaca lies about 460 km southeast of Mexico City, 340 km southeast of Puebla, and 450 km south of Veracruz. Non-stop flights to Oaxaca take 3 hours 50 minutes from Los Angeles, 2 hours 55 minutes from Dallas, and just 50 minutes from Mexico City.

How big is Oaxaca?

Oaxaca has a greater metro population of around 650,000. The city lies along the valley of the Atoyac River, between the foothills of the Sierra Madre.

What is the history of Oaxaca?

Located within the Mixtec and Zapotec heartlands, the Oaxaca area was initially of little interest to the Spanish. A small settlement was established in the 1520s, but Oaxaca possessed nothing in the way of mineral wealth and had little agricultural value (some coffee was grown here, however). Despite being the home of two presidents in the 19th century – Benito Juárez and Porfirio Díaz – Oaxaca remained a backwater, it’s indigenous cultures largely maintaining their traditions. The biggest event of recent decades were the 2006 Oaxaca protests, when striking teachers clashed with riot police, initially over low wages and later over political corruption.

How do I get to Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is connected to the US by several non-stop flights, notably from Dallas and Los Angeles, and to a handful of cities within Mexico; flights from Canada and Europe route through Mexico City or the US. Within Mexico, first-class long-distance buses are an economical and comfortable alternative to flying – buses to Oaxaca from Mexico City (6 hours) and Puebla (4 hours 30 minutes); operate hourly. Oaxaca’s first-class bus terminal is at Calzada Niños Héroes de Chapultepec 1036, uphill from and northeast from the city center; arriving here it’s best to take a taxi (around 50 pesos).

Monte Alban ruins

The ancient ruins of Monte Alban on the outskirts of the city make a for a great day trip.

What are the options for Oaxaca airport transportation?

Oaxaca’s airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Xoxocotlán) lies 10km south of the center. Take a taxi from here: shared (colectivo) and private cars are available (from 90 pesos for colectivo, to 350 pesos for private cars); buy tickets at the kiosk in the terminal before leaving. Colectivos are just as reliable/safe as private taxis but can take up to 30 minutes longer depending on how many stops they make.

Can I use Uber in Oaxaca?

Uber is not available in Oaxaca. Chinese-owned DiDi , a similar ride-sharing app, does operate in Oaxaca and can offer slightly cheaper rates than taxis, but we’d recommend sticking with regular taxis for first-time visitors.

Can I drive to Oaxaca?

It’s possible to drive to Oaxaca, but it’s not recommended. The drive down from the US border is long (800 miles/1287 km), the route is complicated, and the Mexican border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas have been affected by drug cartel violence. In addition, the roads in and around Oaxaca are often congested and confusing to navigate.

Do I need a car in Oaxaca?

The historic center of Oaxaca is best appreciated on foot (and isn’t that big in any case). Local taxis are also available and relatively cheap (50 to 60 pesos for trips within the center).

oaxaca plaza dancing

Public concerts in the plaza are popular with locals and tourists alike.

When is the best time to go to Oaxaca?

Sub-tropical Oaxaca is at its best November through February, when it’s cool, sunny, and dry, though visiting from March to May is usually fine – not uncomfortably hot and still relatively dry. The summer (June to October) is warm and relatively wet. Avoid Easter, Christmas, and any Mexican public holiday to avoid crowds of domestic tourists and high hotel prices (July and August also tend to be more expensive because of Mexican school holidays).

Where should I stay in Oaxaca?

Aim to stay in the atmospheric old center of Oaxaca, close to all the sights, best restaurants, and attractions. Unless it’s a public holiday, there should be lots of choices, from hostels to luxurious boutiques, and most hotels occupy beautiful historic properties. We like mid-range B&B Casa de las Bugambilias (Reforma 402), decked out with work by local artists, and the more luxurious Hotel Parador San Miguel (Avenida Independencia 503), set around a colonial courtyard.

For a real splurge consider Quinta Real (5 de Mayo), a converted convent with large pool and top-notch restaurants.

Our favorite budget options include Las Golondrinas (Tinoco y Palacios 411), and the city’s best hostel, Hostel Don Niño (Pino Suárez 804), which has dorms and good private rooms, breakfast included.

What are the best things to do in Oaxaca?

oaxaca museum rufono Tamayo

The Rufino Tamayo Museum in Oaxaca.

Soak up the charming atmosphere in the old town, and go craft shopping in Oaxaca’s vibrant markets. Plaza de la Constitución, the main square, is ringed by languid cafes and often hosts fiestas and musical performers. Here also is the city’s grand cathedral and mural-smothered Palacio de Gobierno. Of Oaxaca’s many colonial churches, the most spectacular are 17th-century Santo Domingo de Guzmán, one of the finest examples of Mexican Baroque in the country, and the Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad, which contains a revered statue of the Virgin Mary.

The city is also crammed with museums – our favorites are the Museo de las Culturas (1a. Cerrada de Macedonio Alcala), which chronicles the history of Oaxaca since Mixtec times, and the Museo Rufino Tamayo (Av. Paseo de la Reforma 51), housing the Mesoamerican artifacts collected by local abstract artist Tamayo.

Saturday is the best day for markets in Oaxaca; all sorts of colorful produce is sold at Mercado Benito Juárez, along with stalls offering local mescal, cheese, and mole sauce powders. The nearby Mercado 20 de Noviembre is crammed with food and snack stalls, while the best place for indigenous handicrafts is Mercado de Artesanías (20 de Noviembre, between Mina and Zaragoza). On the edge of the old town, sprawling Mercado de Abastos is the city’s general market, where everything from fruit to furniture is sold.

What are the best things to do around Oaxaca?

Numerous operators run half-day trips out of Oaxaca to the spectacular Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán, just outside the city, as well the Mixtec and Zapotec villages in the surrounding valleys. Try Oaxaca Tours , or René at Las Bugambilias Tours .

Oaxaca cuisine food sauce preparation

Preparing a traditional pasilla chili sauce in a restaurant. Oaxaca is full of excellent regional cuisine.

What are the restaurants like in Oaxaca?

The restaurants in Oaxaca are excellent – Oaxacan cuisine is one of Mexico’s most celebrated. Oaxaca’s nickname is the “land of the seven moles” after its best-known sauces: mole negro is the most popular, made with chocolate. Moles typically accompany chicken or enchiladas, served at street stalls as much as gourmet restaurants. Other local specialties include deep-fried grasshoppers known as chapulines, and tlayudas, giant crispy tortillas.

Our favorite restaurants include Casa Oaxaca (Constitución 104-A), which serves traditional and contemporary versions of Oaxacan food, and elegant Restaurante Catedral (García Vigil 105). For the best and cheapest tacos in the city, make for Lechoncito de Oro, on the corner of Calle de Los Libres and Murguía. For cheap and tasty lunch deals (and mescal margaritas) try Los Danzantes (Alcalá 403) in the courtyard of the Plaza Comercial. For something really special, book a table at Zandunga (García Vigil 512-E), a colorful spot specializing in contemporary Oaxacan food.

Does Oaxaca have cooking classes?

Oaxaca is a great place to learn to cook Mexican and Oaxacan food. Chef Oscar Carrizosa runs popular classes at Casa Crespo (Jacobo Dalevuelta 200), while Reyna Mendoza’s El Sabor Zapoteco (Avenida Benito Juárez 30) is an indigenous-run school in nearby Teotitlán del Valle.

Does Oaxaca have places to learn Spanish?

Oaxaca is also a fun place to learn Spanish. Recommended schools include small-scale Amigos del Sol (Calz. San Felipe del Agua 322) and Becari Language School (M. Bravo 210 and Gómez Farías 118). For a bigger range and more formal lessons checkout Instituto Cultural Oaxaca (Av Benito Juárez 909).

Does Oaxaca have ways to volunteer?

Oaxaca remains one of the poorest states in Mexico. For information about donations and volunteering, contact local charities such as Oaxaca Streetchildren Grassroots , and Fundación En Vía .

What currency is used in Oaxaca?

The Mexican peso (often prefixed with a “$” sign) is the currency of Mexico and Oaxaca. Most major shops and restaurants in Oaxaca accept credit cards, but it is a good idea to have some peso cash on hand for museum entry and small purchases like bottled water and snacks. ATMs are easy to find in Oaxaca around the main plaza.

Is Oaxaca expensive?

There are so many hotels in Oaxaca prices are competitive, and there are plenty of cheap places to eat, from local canteens to taco stalls. Taxis are cheap and museums rarely charge more than US$2–3 equivalent.

Is Oaxaca safe?

Oaxaca has generally avoided the drug violence that has affected other parts of Mexico. Take the usual precautions, especially at night, and keep valuables in room safes.

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The state of Oaxaca is one of the most enticing destinations in Mexico. The state capital, cosmopolitan yet utterly Mexican, encapsulates much of what the region has to offer. Here and in the surrounding countryside indigenous traditions are powerful; nowhere else in the country are the markets so infused with colour, the fiestas so exuberant, or the old languages still so widely spoken. There are traditions in the villages that long predate the Spanish Conquest; yet the city can also offer sophisticated modern dining, great places to stay and wild nightlife. The landscape, too, represents a fundamental break, as the barren deserts of the north are replaced by thickly forested hillsides, or in low-lying areas by swamp and jungle. On the Pacific coast, Puerto Escondido and Huatulco are established resorts with very different characters, while Puerto Ángel and its surrounds offer a more back-to-basics beach experience.

Land of the seven moles – Oaxacan cuisine

Fiestas in oaxaca, staying in local communities around oaxaca, the zapotec and mixtec heartland, puerto ángel and around, the isthmus of tehuantepec.

If you’ve come from Mexico City or the north, the physical differences of the region are compounded by its relative lack of development. Industry is virtually nonexistent, and while the city of Oaxaca and a few coastal hot spots have thrived on tourism, the rest of the state is woefully underdeveloped – the “Mexican economic miracle” has yet to reach the south. Indeed, the region witnessed considerable political disturbance in the early years of the twenty-first century, though for the moment the protests seem to have been subdued.

The city of Oaxaca is the region’s prime destination, close enough to Mexico City to attract large numbers of tourists to its fine crafts stores, markets, seemingly constant fiestas, cobbled, gallery-lined walkways and excellent restaurants. The church of Santo Domingo here is one of the region’s – and the whole of Latin America’s – most magnificent examples of Baroque architecture, fusing Spanish and native influences to spectacular effect. And it’s just one of many. Nearby, the Zapotec and Mixtec sites at Monte Albán, Yagul and Mitla are less well known than their ancient contemporaries in central and eastern Mexico, but every bit as important and impressive. All this is set among spectacular mountain scenery where the Sierra Madre del Sur meets the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca, the continuation of Mexico’s central volcanic belt.

On the coast, west of the mountains, lie some of the emptiest and best Pacific beaches in Mexico. The resorts of Puerto Escondido and Huatulco are now firmly on the map, though Escondido still has the flavour of the surfer hangout in which it has its origins, while Huatulco , conceived and purpose-built as an environmentally conscious resort, can still boast some wonderful and relatively empty sands. Between the two, around Puerto Ángel, are several tranquil beach villages with a distinct “alternative” vibe.

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Discover Mexico from fascinating San Miguel de Allende over busy Mexico City all the way to the Yucatan Peninsula. This itinerary combines public transportation with domestic flights to ensure you can make the most of discovering fascinating Mexico within two weeks.

Tailor-made trips for   Mexico

Oaxaca is known as the “land of the seven moles” after its most famous sauces: mole negro or Oaxaqueño (the most popular, made with chocolate giving a distinct roasted flavour), amarillo, coloradito, mancha manteles, chichilo, rojo and verde. Moles are typically served with chicken or enchiladas, but you don’t have to go to one of the smart restaurants serving contemporary Oaxacan cuisine to sample them: mole negro is often better from street or market vendors. Other specialities include tamales, worth trying in any form, and chapulines, crunchy seasoned grasshoppers. Tlayudas, giant crisp tortillas dressed with beans and a mild Oaxacan string cheese called quesillo, are staples of cafés and street stands after dark.

The place to go for exceptional home-made ice cream is the plaza in front of the church of La Soledad, full of rival vendors and tables where you can sit and gorge yourself while watching the world go by. Flavours are innumerable and often bizarre, including elote (corn), queso, leche quemada (burnt milk; even worse than it sounds), sorbete (cinnamon-flavoured sherbet) and exotic fruits like mamey, guanabana and tuna (prickly pear; a virulent purple that tastes wonderful). There are also more ordinary varieties like chocolate, strawberry and coconut. At the opposite end of town, you can sample many of these flavours at Museo de las Nieves, Alcalá 706, just up from Santo Domingo.

  • New Year’s Day (Jan 1). Celebrated everywhere, but particularly good in Oaxaca and Mitla.
  • Día de San Sebastián (Jan 20). Big in Tehuantepec.
  • Día de la Candelaria (Feb 2). Colourful indigenous celebrations in Santa María del Tule.
  • Carnaval (the week before Lent; variable Feb–March). At its most frenzied in the big cities – especially Oaxaca – but also celebrated in hundreds of villages in the area.
  • Día de San Isidro (May 15). Peasant celebrations everywhere – famous and picturesque fiestas in Juchitán.
  • Día de San Juan (June 24). Falls in the midst of festivities (June 22–26) in Tehuantepec.
  • Fiesta de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo (first Wed in July). Teotitlán del Valle, near Oaxaca, holds a festival with traditional dances and religious processions.
  • Guelaguetza (last two Mon in July). In Oaxaca, a mixture of traditional dancing and rites on the Cerro del Fortín. Highly popular; tickets for the good seats are sold at the tourist office.
  • Fiestas (Aug 13–16). Spectacular festivities in Juchitán (Vela de Agosto) and Tehuantepec (Fiesta del Barrio de Santa María Relatoca).
  • Fiesta de San Bartolomé (Aug 24). In San Bartolo Coyotepec, near Oaxaca.
  • Blessing of the Animals (Aug 31). In Oaxaca locals bring their beasts to the church of La Merced to be blessed.
  • Fiesta del Señor de la Natividad (Sept 8). In Teotitlán del Valle.
  • Independence Day (Sept 16). Celebrated everywhere.
  • Feria del Árbol (second Mon in Oct). Based around the famous tree in Santa María del Tule.
  • Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead; Nov 2). Observed everywhere, with particularly strong traditions in Xoxocotlán and in Atzompa.
  • Día de la Inmaculada Concepción (Dec 8). Observed widely. There are traditional dances in Juquilla, not far from Puerto Escondido , and Zacatepec, on the road inland from Pinotepa Nacional.
  • Fiesta de la Virgen de la Soledad (Dec 18). Celebrations in Oaxaca in honour of the patroness of the state – expect fireworks, processions and music.
  • Fiesta de los Rabanos (Radish Festival; Dec 23). There’s an exhibition of statues and scenes sculpted from radishes in Oaxaca.
  • Christmas Eve (Dec 24). In Oaxaca there’s music, fireworks and processions before midnight Mass. Buñuelos – crisp pancakes that you eat before smashing the plate on which they are served – are dished up at street stalls.

Indigenous communities in the mountains and valleys of Oaxaca have been developing their ecotourism potential since the 1990s, when a cabins programme was established. These small, self-contained cabañas ecoturísticas were designed to bring income to the villages while minimizing the disruptive effects of tourism. These days many villages organize tours (hiking, coffee farms, biking, adventure sports and agrotourism) and some sort of “community lodging”, from homestays to simple but comfy cabins, usually arranged through a local Comité de Ecoturismo. Either type of accommodation makes a convenient and economical base for exploring the villages and archeological sites of Oaxaca state. Many communities have particular handicraft traditions, such as carpet-weaving, wickerwork or pottery; others have museums devoted to local archeological finds and the life of the villagers.

The best place for information and reservations – ideally made a few days in advance, especially for the more accessible sites – is Oaxaca’s state tourist office at Juárez 703 (951 502 1200), though be warned that individual staff may know little about this, that their information may be out of date, and that even where they do make a reservation it may take a while to seek out the key locally when you arrive. Oaxaca's lending library, at at Pino Suárez 519, is a great resource for rentals. For the Sierra Norte and the Pueblos Mancomunados contact Expediciones Sierra Norte, which coordinates all the local community programmes in that area. For Ixtlán contact Ecoturixtlán (951 553 6075) directly, based at 16 de Septiembre in Ixtlán de Juárez.

The city of OAXACA sprawls across a grand expanse of deep-set valley, 1600m above sea level. Its colour, folklore, indigenous markets and magnificent colonial centre make it one of the country’s most rewarding destinations even though, with a population of over 250,000, it is well on its way to becoming an industrial city. Many streets are choked and noisy and a thin veil of smog often enshrouds the valley – yet in the colonial centre the city’s provincial charm is hardly affected and just about everything can be reached on foot. Simply being in Oaxaca, wandering through its streets and absorbing its life, is an experience, especially if you happen to catch the city during a fiesta (they happen all the time – see Fiestas in Oaxaca). The city is an important artistic centre, too, with several state-run and private galleries, craft and jewellery masterclasses and regular exhibitions.

Among the highlights of any visit are the Museo de las Culturas and the Museo Tamayo, the markets (craft shopping in Oaxaca ranks with the best in the country) and the churches of Santo Domingo and La Soledad, along with the nearby archeological sites of Monte Albán and Mitla.

Brief history

Once central to the Mixtec and Zapotec civilizations, Oaxaca had a limited role during the early years of the Spanish Conquest. Cortés, attracted by the area’s natural beauty, created the title of Marqués del Valle de Oaxaca, and until the Revolution his descendants held vast estates hereabouts. For practical purposes, though, the area was of little interest to the Spaniards, with no mineral wealth and, due to the rugged mountain terrain, no great agricultural value (though coffee was grown). This meant that the indigenous population was largely left to get on with life and did not have to deal with much outside influence beyond the interference of a proselytizing Church.

Nevertheless, by 1796 Oaxaca had become the third largest city in Nueva España, thanks to the export of cochineal and, later, textile manufacturing. In the nineteenth century it produced two of Mexico’s most influential statesmen: Benito Juárez is commemorated everywhere in Oaxaca, a privilege not shared by Porfirio Díaz, the second most famous Oaxaqueño, whose dictatorship most people have chosen to forget. Thereafter Oaxaca was something of a political backwater until autumn 2006, when it made international headlines as striking teachers occupied the city’s main plaza and clashed with riot police in a dispute that began over wages and mushroomed into protests over corruption and political cronyism; the city is perfectly safe for tourists but occasional protests and demos rumble on to this day.

Benito Juárez

Benito Juárez ranks among Mexico’s greatest national heroes. He was the towering figure of nineteenth-century Mexican politics, and his maxim – “El respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz” (“Respect for the rights of others is peace”) – has long been a rallying cry for liberals. A Zapotec, he strove against nineteenth-century social prejudices and, through four terms as president, successfully reformed many of the worst remnants of Spanish colonialism, earning a reputation for honesty and fair dealing.

Juárez was born in San Pablo Guelatao in 1806. His parents died when he was 3, and he grew up speaking only Zapotec; at the age of 12 he was adopted by priests and moved to Oaxaca, where he began to study for the priesthood. Turning his talents to law, he provided his legal services to impoverished villagers free of charge, and by 1831 had earned a seat on Oaxaca’s municipal council, lending his voice to a disenfranchised people. Juárez rose through the ranks of the city council to become state governor from 1847 to 1852, on a liberal ticket geared towards improving education and releasing the country from the economic and social stranglehold of the Church and the aristocracy. In 1853, the election of a conservative government under Santa Anna forced him into eighteen months of exile in the US.

Liberal victory in 1855 enabled Juárez to return to Mexico as minister of justice and give his name to a law abolishing special courts for the military and clergy. His support was instrumental in passing the Ley Lerdo, which effectively nationalized the Church’s huge holdings, and bills legalizing civil marriage and guaranteeing religious freedom. In 1858, President Ignacio Comonfort was ousted by conservatives enraged by these reforms, and Juárez, as the head of the Supreme Court, had a legal claim to the presidency. However, he lacked the military might to hold Mexico City and retired to Veracruz, returning three years later, victorious in the War of Reform, as constitutionally elected president. Stymied in his attempts to reduce the power of the Church by an intractable Congress and empty coffers, Juárez suspended all national debt repayments for two years from July 1861. To protect their investments, the British, Spanish and French sent their armies in, but when it became apparent that Napoleon III had designs on the control of Mexico, the others pulled out, leaving France to install Habsburg Archduke Maximilian as puppet emperor. Juárez fled again, this time to Paso del Norte (now Ciudad Juárez) on the US border, until by 1867 he was able to return to the capital and to round up his army and execute the hapless Maximilian.

Juárez was returned as president in the 1867 elections but alienated much of his support through attempts to use Congress to amend the constitution. Nevertheless, he secured another term in the 1870 elections, spending two more years trying unsuccessfully to maintain peace before dying of a heart attack in 1872.

Santo Domingo

The church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán is one of the real highlights of Oaxaca. Consecrated in 1611, this elaborately carved and decorated extravaganza is one of the finest examples of Mexican Baroque anywhere; its external walls (10m thick in some places) solid and earthquake-proof, the interior extraordinarily rich. Parts were damaged during the Reform Wars and the Revolution – especially the chapels, pressed into service as stables – but most of the interior was restored during the 1950s.

The church drips with gold leaf throughout, beautifully set off, especially, by the afternoon light. Highlights include the great gilded main altarpiece and, on the underside of the raised choir above you as you enter, the family tree of Felix de Guzmán, father of St Dominic (the founder of the Dominican Order), in the form of a vine with leafy branches and tendrils, busts of leading Dominicans and a figure of the Virgin right at the top. Looking back from the altar, you can appreciate the relief scenes high on the walls and the biblical events depicted in the barrel roof and the ceiling of the choir, a vision of the heavenly hierarchy with gilded angels swirling in rings around God. The adjoining Capilla de la Virgen del Rosario (completed in 1720) is also richly painted and carved: the Virgin takes pride of place in another stunning altarpiece, all the more startlingly intense in such a relatively small space.

Mole and chocolate

Calle Mina, south of the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, is lined with spice vendors selling plump bags of the chile-and-chocolate powder that makes up most Oaxacan moles. Cinnamon-flavoured chocolate powder is also available, for cooking or making into drinking chocolate. One of the best places in this area to try a mug of hot chocolate, laced with almond, cinnamon, sugar or chile and served with pan dulce, is Mayordomo, the Willy Wonka of Oaxaca; the main branch is at the corner of Mina and 20 de Noviembre. You can also buy pure cacao by the kilo and all sorts of chocolate products. Nearby La Soledad at Mina 212 has a row of old bean-crushing machines and is drenched in the overpowering aroma of sweet cacao – choc addicts beware.

The region around Oaxaca can be divided into two parts: the Valles Centrales, comprising three valleys which radiate from the state capital to the south and east, towards Mitla, Ocotlán and Zaachila (collectively the Valle de Oaxaca); and the Mixteca, which extends northwest towards Puebla and arcs down to the Pacific coast via Tlaxiaco and Pinotepa Nacional. The Valles Centrales include the state’s most famous and frequented archeological centres, craft villages and colourful markets, while the Mixteca, rich in ruined Dominican convents and ancient towns and villages, is less visited but well worth exploring.

This area saw the development of some of the most highly advanced civilizations in pre-Hispanic Mexico, most notably the Zapotecs and Mixtecs. Their craft skills – particularly Mixtec weaving, pottery and metalworking – were unrivalled, and the architecture and planning of their cities rank among ancient Mexico’s greatest achievements. Traditional ways of life and indigenous languages are still vigorously preserved by Mixtec and Zapotec descendants in villages today.

The Valles Centrales are the cradle of some of the earliest civilizations in Mexico. The story begins with the Zapotecs, who founded their first city – now called San José Mogoté, and little more than a collection of mounds, a few kilometres north of the state capital – some time before 1000 BC. As the city grew in wealth, trading with Pacific coastal communities, its inhabitants turned their eyes to the stars, and by 500 BC they had invented the first Mexican calendar and were using hieroglyphic writing. At this time, San José, together with smaller villages in the area, established a new administrative capital at Monte Albán , a vantage point on a mountain spur overlooking the principal Oaxaca valley. Just like Teotihuacán, Monte Albán mysteriously began to implode from about 700 AD, and the Zapotec influence across the Valles Centrales waned. Only Yagul and Mitla, two smaller cities in the principal valley, expanded after this date, though they never reached the imperial glory of Monte Albán .

As the Zapotecs disappeared, the gap they left behind was slowly filled by the Mixtecs, pre-Hispanic Mexico’s finest craftsmen, who expanded into the southern valleys from the north to occupy the Zapotecs’ magnificent cities. Influenced by the Zapotec sculptors’ abstract motifs on the walls at Mitla, the Mixtecs concentrated their artistic skills on metalwork and pottery, examples of which can be seen in the state capital’s museums. By the fifteenth century, the Mixtecs had become the favoured artisans to Mexico’s greatest empire, their conquerors, the Aztecs; Bernal Díaz recounts that Moctezuma ate only from plates fashioned by Mixtec craftsmen.

Valle de Tlacolula

Hwy-190 provides access to the alluring villages of the Valle de Tlacolula, slicing some 45km east of Oaxaca towards Mitla, before cutting south to Tehuantepec and the coast. The route is well served by colectivos and buses from the second-class terminal (every 30min or so), making day-trips possible, even without a car. Check with the tourist office for which village has a market on the day you’re going. If you want to explore the valley further it’s a good idea to stay in one of the villages, some of which have self-catering facilities.

The main allure of the ancient Zapotec site of DAINZÚ resides in its raw appeal, with few tourists or imposing facilities to detract from soulful contemplation. Just over 20km from Oaxaca on Hwy-190, Dainzú, established around 700–600 BC, stands partially excavated in a harsh landscape of cactus-covered hills around 1km south of the main road. The chief structure, Edificio A, is a large, rambling hillside construction set around a courtyard, with elements from several epochs. Along the far side of its base a series of danzante figures can be made out, similar to those at Monte Albán except that these clearly represent ball-players. Nearby is the ball-court, only one side of which has been reconstructed. Edificio B is another large and complex platform structure; its most striking feature is a tomb whose entrance is carved in the form of a jaguar.

Teotitlán del Valle

TEOTITLÁN DEL VALLE, 4km north of Hwy-190, is the most famous weaving town in Oaxaca. The rugs are the product of a cottage industry that seems to involve almost every family in town; along the road as you approach and all over the village you’ll see bold-patterned and brightly coloured rugs and sarapes, some following traditional designs from Mitla, others more modern, including many based on the work of Dutch graphic artist M.C. Escher.

Even if you’re not buying, poke your head into one of the compounds with rugs hanging outside. There’s little hard-sell, and most weavers will be more than happy to provide a demonstration of pre-Hispanic weaving and dying techniques; traditional dyes use natural substances including indigo, pomegranate and cochineal, the latter made from a substance secreted by the cochineal beetle that, when dried, creates an inimitable blood-red colour. There’s a small Mercado de Artesanías on the main plaza with a decent range of rugs, but quality and prices are generally better if you go direct to the producers.

The small Zapotec site of LAMBITYECO, prettily planted with agave and cactus, can be seen in twenty minutes, but it’s worth it for the exceptional carvings and stucco-work. Just two buildings of the two hundred or so that have been identified have been excavated, along with some outbuildings that include an original temazcal. The smaller building at the back is the Templo de Cocijo, extensively decorated with masks of Cocijo, Zapotec god of rain and thunder, in the form of a stylised jaguar; two stunningly preserved versions flank the tiny central patio. The larger Palacio de los Racoqui is thought to have been the home of several generations of an important family – perhaps the city’s rulers. There are some superb friezes, including those on the lintels of two tombs, excavated where they had been buried deep inside the building, with remarkable portraits of the individuals buried there.

Santa Ana del Valle

SANTA ANA DEL VALLE, 4km north of Tlacolula, is a tiny, very quiet and very traditional village with a fine selection of locally produced rugs. You’ll see them for sale everywhere. There’s a tranquil and well-managed homestay programme should you want to stay; the local baker makes delicious bread and there’s a shop where you can buy basic provisions. A three-hour walk, outlined on a board outside the community museum, will take you to Iki ya’a, a hilltop Zapotec site with fine views.

One of the least-visited archeological sites in the region, YAGUL lies to the north of the highway at about the 35km mark – a signposted twenty-minute walk (or 1.5km drive). The large site spreads expansively across a superb defensive position, and although occupied by the Zapotecs from a fairly early date, its main features are from later on (around 900–1200 AD, after the fall of Monte Albán ) and demonstrate Mixtec influence. On the lowest level is the Patio de la Triple Tumba, where the remains of four temples surround an altar and the entry to the Triple Tomb, whose three funereal chambers show characteristically Mixtec decoration. Immediately above the patio, you’ll see a large and elegantly simple ball-court, the largest known after Chichén Itzá. Higher up, the maze-like Palacio de los Seis Patios, probably a residential complex, features six small courtyards surrounded by rooms and narrow passages. From here a good path leads up to a viewpoint on a mesa-like crag, with superb views over the surrounding valleys.

The town of MITLA (“Place of the Dead”) is a dusty and none too attractive place, which you’d visit only to see the stunning Mixtec site at the upper edge of town. It may not have the grandiose scale and setting of Monte Albán , but Mitla is magnificently decorated with elaborate stone mosaics that are among the finest in Mexico. You’ll see these superlative bas-reliefs and geometric designs at their best if you arrive towards closing time, when the low sun throws the patterns into sharp, shadowed relief, and the bulk of the visitors have left.

Brief history of Mitla

Mitla reached its apogee during the post-Classic period, when Monte Albán was in decline. Construction at the site continued until the late fifteenth century, at which point it was finally conquered by the Aztecs. The abstract designs on the buildings seem to echo patterns on surviving Mixtec manuscripts, and have long been viewed as purely Mixtec in style. But more recent opinion is that the buildings were constructed by Zapotecs and that the city was a ceremonial centre occupied by the most important Zapotec high priest. This Uija-Tao, or “great seer”, was described by Alonso Canesco, a fifteenth-century Spaniard, as being “rather like our Pope”, and his presence here would have made Mitla a kind of Vatican City.

The Sierra Norte and the Pueblos Mancomunados

North of the Oaxaca valleys the wild ranges of the Sierra Norte stretch for over 100km, a pristine world of pine forests, mist-cloaked mountains and rustic Zapotec villages. The Pueblos Mancomunados (literally “joint villages”) occupy the southern edge of the Sierra. The landscape here is spectacular and the biodiversity phenomenal, with birdlife, butterflies and mammals, including ocelot, puma and jaguar – some sections of the pine forest have been classified by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) as among the richest and most varied on earth. It’s a rewarding place to spend a few days, enjoying nature and getting first-hand experience of rural Oaxacan life.

The hills are laced with more than 100km of signposted rural footpaths and country roads, suitable for hikers and mountain-bikers of all abilities, and almost every community offers simple accommodation, local guides and a roster of activities. The paths have been used for centuries by local people accustomed to sharing resources with surrounding communities and the villages are an impressive example of social organization, with eight small towns perched on common land. One of the most enchanting hikes is along the 15km high-altitude footpath between the isolated villages of Latuvi and San Miguel Amatlán, which passes though mystical cloud forest and is believed to be part of a larger pre-Columbian route that connected the Zapotec cities in the Valles Centrales with the Gulf of Mexico – you can still see the remains of an old road along the trail (tours usually take two days to hike this route).

Perched on a ridge overlooking the Oaxaca valleys (18km north of Teotitlán) and surrounded by pine trees, the little village of BENITO JUÁREZ is the gateway to the Pueblos Mancomunados. Known for its spectacular sunsets – in clear weather you can see all the way to Mexico’s highest mountain, Pico de Orizaba – Benito Juárez makes a good base for exploration. There’s a river where you can fish for trout and plenty of walking and other activities on offer.

Ixtlán de Juárez

Ixtlán de Juárez, a pretty Zapotec village near San Pablo Guelatao (the birthplace of Benito Juárez), 61km north of Oaxaca, is in an area of great natural beauty, and its cloud forests and pine and oak woodlands are claimed to be home to five hundred bird varieties and six thousand species of plants.

The Mixteca

Oaxaca’s Mixteca region is not at first an obvious tourist destination: the pre-Hispanic sites here are far less spectacular than those in the Valles Centrales and there are no artisan centres to compare with Teotitlán or Arrazola. However, the colonial buildings are widely regarded as some of the country’s most important, there’s stunning mountain scenery and the low number of visitors means that you are likely to have vast crumbling monasteries and Mixtec ruins to yourself; the main appeal is their aching, faded glory and the spine-tingling sense that you’re witnessing a scene that has remained relatively unchanged since before Cortés.

Broadly the region divides into two – the barren hills of the Mixteca Baja and the mountainous, pine-clad Mixteca Alta. Toll Hwy-135D, one of the country’s best roads, cuts through the Baja’s deforested hillsides en route from Oaxaca to Mexico City. The Mixteca Alta lies off to the south, where Hwy-125 climbs into and through the sierra before eventually descending to the Pacific coast. The Mixteca Baja’s highlights are three vast Dominican monasteries – Yanhuitlán, Teposcolula and Coixtlahuaca – imposing relics of Mexico’s imperial past. All three have been expertly restored and can easily be visited as a day trip from Oaxaca if you have your own transport; it’s less easy if you’re relying on public transport, though still possible.

Capillas Abiertas

Among the most striking features of the monasteries of the Mixteca Baja are their capillas abiertas. These graceful open-air chapels, found only in the New World, look like unfinished, roofless churches, or cathedrals chopped in half. They face out onto huge open areas where the idea was that mass conversions of and services for indigenous people, too numerous for the church to accommodate, would take place. They are designed for congregations of thousands; the very same people whose prodigious labour produced these vast churches in the first place. Sadly, even by the time they were first completed, those populations had been decimated by disease and the demands of the Spanish overlords; the capillas became vast white elephants, testament to a vanished population.

Some 65km from Puerto Escondido , at the junction of Hwy-175 from Oaxaca and coastal Hwy-200, the oppressive, shabby city of Pochutla is the service hub for a string of beach towns and resorts that unfurl east towards the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Puerto Ángel, now firmly on the tourist radar, is a fishing village that draws budget travellers with its unpretentious, low-key vibe and picturesque setting. Seven kilometres west, the beautiful beach of Zipolite has gained a reputation for its liberal-minded, European-hippy vibe, while north over the headland, attractive San Agustinillo has a more restrained feel. Further west, Mazunte is the main nesting site for Golfina turtles. Rapidly developing, it has something of the feel of a junior Zipolite.

Puerto Ángel

Though it’s well established as a tourist destination, PUERTO ÁNGEL goes about its business as a small, down-at-heel fishing port with minimum fuss. Everything remains resolutely low-key – you may very well find pigs and chickens mingling with the visitors on the streets – and locals fish off the huge concrete dock, catching yellowtail tuna and other gamefish with a simple rod and line. Though it has a gorgeous setting – around a sheltered bay ringed by mountains – the beaches are less than pristine. Small hotels, rooms and simple places to sling a hammock, however, are abundant, with some of the most promising on the road between the main village and the Playa del Panteón. If you’re on a tight budget Puerto Ángel can be a fun place to spend a few days, meandering and sampling the superb local seafood.

San Agustinillo

Rounding the headland north of Zipolite you come to SAN AGUSTINILLO, another fine beach graced with good surfing waves. Fast developing, it has a more restrained vibe than Zipolite, with some charming and upmarket places to stay and eat. The sand is backed by restaurants, which offer space for a hammock or small rooms for rent in addition to reasonably priced, fresh seafood. Colectivos and pasajeras pass frequently along the main road, heading in one direction to Zipolite, in the other to Mazunte and Pochutla.

The Isthmus of Tehuantepec, where the Pacific and the Atlantic are just 210km apart and the land never rises to more than 250m above sea level, is the narrowest strip of land in Mexico. It’s a hot and steamy region, with a fascinating and unique cultural identity. The people are descendants of various indigenous groups, principally Zapotec. Historically, the Zapotec indígenas, especially those in the south, have been a matriarchal society. Though you’ll still find women dominating trade in the markets (they are renowned for their tenacious, even aggressive, sales skills) while the men work in the fields, this is a tradition that is dying faster than most others in macho Mexico. Nevertheless, some elements remain: the women exude pride, many dressed in ornate hand-woven dresses and draped with gold jewellery; it’s still the mother who gives away her child at a wedding (and occasionally still the eldest daughter who inherits land); and on feast days the women prove their dominance by climbing to the rooftops and throwing fruit down on the men in the Tirada de Frutas.

The best reason to stop in this region is if there’s a fiesta going on, as they’re among the most exciting in the country. Otherwise, you can go straight across – from Oaxaca to Tuxtla Gutiérrez or San Cristóbal in Chiapas – in a single, very long, day. Most first-class buses bypass the grimy port town of Salina Cruz, dominated by a giant oil refinery; better places to stop are Tehuantepec itself, around 250km from Oaxaca City, or nearby Juchitán.

Tehuantepec

The modest town of TEHUANTEPEC visibly preserves many of the isthmus’s local traditions, has some of the best fiestas in the region and is generally a pleasant place to stop, with several inexpensive hotels. In the evening, the central plaza comes alive, with singing birds and people strolling and eating food from the stalls set up by the townswomen, some of whom still proudly wear the traditional flower-embroidered huipil and floor-length velvet skirt of the Zapotec. Perhaps because the town is so concentrated – a walk of ten blocks in any direction will take you out into the countryside – it’s extraordinarily noisy; the din of passing buses redoubled by the flatbed motor tricycles (motos) that locals use as taxis. There’s a very busy market, just off the main plaza, which sells fruit, herbs, bread, flowers and other local produce.

Mescal (or mezcal) is the Oaxaqueño drink of choice, sold everywhere in bottles that usually have a dead gusano worm (actually a type of caterpillar) in the bottom. Tradition has it that the creature lives on the cactus-like maguey plant and is there to prove that the ingredients are genuine, although these days most of the worms are farm raised. You don’t have to eat the worm, though few people are in any state to notice what they’re ingesting by the time they reach the bottom of the bottle. Like tequila (which is technically a type of mescal), mescal is made from the sugary heart of the agave plant, which is baked, pulverized and then distilled. Many of the best mescal stores can be found around the Mercado 20 de Noviembre where you can taste before you commit to buying; good brands include Los Amantes (also has a great shop), Los Danzantes (also a restaurant), Mezcal Amores and Alipús.

Several towns produce mescal, but the original is Santiago Matatlán , 45km from Oaxaca City near Mitla . Mescal tours are advertised everywhere.

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Andy Turner

written by Andy Turner

updated 26.04.2021

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Oaxaca Travel Guide

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Oaxaca Travel: At a Glance

Known for its colorful festivals, artisan towns, amazing cuisine and unique history, Oaxaca state is still somewhat off the beaten path, but gaining in popularity each year.

There are two parts to the state — Oaxaca City and the mountain towns (like San Jose del Pacifico ) in the north, and the beaches of Oaxaca on the Pacific Coast of Mexico.

Q: How do you pronounce Oaxaca?!

A: You’re not alone in wondering, How do you say Oaxaca? , as it’s a very common question! The Oaxaca pronunciation is  waa-HA-kah .

Oaxaca Travel: Know before you go

woman dressed for day of the dead in mexico

  • ✈️ Airport: Oaxaca Airport (code: OAX), Puerto Escondido Airport (code: PVR), Huatulco Airport (code: HUX) ⏰ Time Zone: Central Daylight Time (GMT-5)
  • 💰 Currency: Mexican Peso
  • 🗣 Language: Spanish, though English is common, and you may even hear some indigenous languages
  • 🎫 Mexico Visa: The vast majority of travelers do not need a visa for Mexico — this includes Americans, Canadians, Japanese and most Europeans. Head here to see if you need a Mexico travel visa.
  • 🔌 Electricity Socket : You’ll mostly find Type A (two-prong) and Type B (three-prong) — the same as used in the United States. For visitors from other countries, you’ll need this  universal travel adaptor .
  • 📲 Mexico SIM Card : Wondering, Do I need a SIM card for Mexico? The answer is yes, every traveler will want a one for the reasons explained in this article all about the best Mexico SIM cards .
  • 🚙 Car Rentals : The Mexico rental car process can be a bit daunting, and many people are apprehensive to drive in a foreign country. I get it! Check out this guide to Renting a Car in Oaxaca for info on the process.

oaxaca travel guide

Where is oaxaca located.

Oaxaca state is located in southern Mexico. The state is popular with Mexico culture travel, and Oaxaca City is known as the Foodie Capital of Mexico, so don’t miss out on all the amazing Oaxacan food .

Besides Oaxaca City, travelers also flock to the beaches of Oaxaca on Mexico’s Pacific Coast — like Puerto Escondido , Mazunte , Huatulco and Zipolite.

Oaxaca Mexico map

What’s the best way to get to Oaxaca Mexico?

🇲🇽 oaxaca city.

For Oaxaca City, you’ll want to fly into Oaxaca City International Airport (code: OAX), located about 20 minutes from Centro Historico (Historic Downtown Oaxaca City). From there, you can book private transportation , take a taxi, colectivo (small, shared van) or rental car to your accommodation.

Note: There is no Uber in Oaxaca state, and no Lyft in Oaxaca either.

🏝 Oaxaca beaches

On the beaches of Oaxaca, there are two airports; the first is Puerto Escondido International Airport (code: PXM), for those traveling to Puerto Escondido and Chacahua National Park.

The second, Bahías de Huatulco International Airport (code: HUX), is the better option for Huatulco, Mazunte and Zipolite, San Agustinillo and Puerto Angel.

tropical beach San Agustinillo, oaxaca, mexico | Best Oaxaca Beaches

Traveling from Oaxaca City to the beaches?

Check out these detailed guides, Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca City to Huatulco .

Best places to visit in Oaxaca

Wondering where to stay in Oaxaca Mexico ? Many visitors will opt for the northern part of the state in Oaxaca City, or the beaches of Oaxaca on the coast. There are several Oaxaca beach towns , with Puerto Escondido being the most popular of them all.

oaxaca travel - colorful flags and colonial buildings in oaxaca city, mexico

Oaxaca City, Oaxaca Mexico

Known for its festive Day of the Dead celebration, Oaxaca City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as the state’s capital and cultural epicenter. When talking about the city, most will just say Oaxaca, though its official name is Oaxaca de Juarez.

Is Oaxaca worth visiting? Absolutely! Oaxaca, in a word, is magical! It’s easy to fall in love with the friendly people, colorful mercados (markets), artisan towns, festive street parties, delicious Oaxacan food , and more.

oaxaca travel - staircase down to a beach cove in puerto escondido, mexico

Puerto Escondido , Oaxaca Mexico

The most popular Oaxaca beach town! One of the things that put Puerto Escondido, meaning  hidden port , on the map are its surf waves. However, even non-surfers will enjoy all the beautiful Puerto Escondido beaches as well.

How do I get from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido? Though there’s only about 160 miles (257 km) between Oaxaca City and the beaches of Oaxaca, this isn’t the easiest trip. Head to this article for info on how to get to Puerto Escondido from Oaxaca City.

Best things to do in Oaxaca Mexico

Besides all the mouth-watering  Oaxaca cuisine you’re going to want to devour, there are also a good amount of Oaxaca day trips just outside of the city to see the beautiful nature, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, colorful colonial cities, pueblos magicos (magic towns), and much more.

Discover some of the Oaxaca highlights below ⤵

beautiful blue water in a bay and beach cove in the small beach town of Bahias de Huatulco, Mexico, in Oaxaca state, a safe solo Mexico travel destination in southern Mexico on the Pacific Ocean

Bahias de Huatulco

Water and a tree on a cliff at Hierve el Agua in Oaxaca City

Hierve el Agua

oaxaca travel tips

Zipolite (Mexico Nude Beach)

oaxaca travel tips

Día de los Muertos

tropical beach with golden sand and large boulders in the water at san agustinillo, oaxaca, mexico | Best Oaxaca Beaches

San Agustinillo

woman's feet up on a railing at a tropical beachfront cabana in chacahua, oaxaca, mexico | Best Oaxaca Beaches

Lagunas de Chacahua

monte alban pyramids oaxaca travel mexico

Monte Alban Ruins

oaxaca travel tips

Pueblos Mancomunados

Best oaxaca tours.

Tours in Oaxaca Mexico are a great way to see the sites — and unless you’re planning to rent a car in Oaxaca, tours are the best way to get around as transportation costs can add up quickly! If you do want a Oaxaca rental car, check out this guide to Renting a Car in Oaxaca: Everything You Need to Know .

Oaxaca travel guide

Is oaxaca safe for tourists.

According to experts, you are statistically quite safe while visiting Mexico. In fact, Oaxaca consistently ranks as one of the safest states in Mexico, which includes both Oaxaca City and the beaches of Oaxaca on the coast.

Millions of Americans go to Mexico on vacation every year, so if we play the numbers game, the number of incidents is very small… When I’m asked if Mexico is a safe place to go travel on vacation, my response is  yes . —Carlos Barron, FBI Veteran (source:  Forbes )

That’s not to say bad things don’t happen in Oaxaca; they do. As with traveling anywhere, follow general travel safety like not walking home alone at night, watching your alcohol consumption and staying aware of yourself and surroundings.

For an added safety measure, pack these  travel safety items , dress in a way so your Mexico outfits blend in with the locals, and buy a Mexico SIM card .

Is Oaxaca safe for solo travelers?

On a personal note, I lived in Oaxaca by myself for four months, and felt quite safe. Now, this wasn’t magic; I made it a priority to stay safe by not walking home alone at night, never drinking too much, etc. Check out my Mexico Solo Travel Guide for more info on Mexico travel safety for solo female travelers.

What’s the best travel insurance for Mexico?

travel insurance for mexico paperwork

This is a question I get a lot as a Mexico travel writer and Mexico expat. To determine which Mexico travel insurance is best for you , consider factors like the policy’s total cost, your deductible, the coverage you need, your medical benefits, etc.

🏆 In general, I only ever recommend three companies to purchase Mexico travel insurance from:

  • World Nomads — For general travelers and adventure travelers.
  • SafetyWing — For general travelers and digital nomads in Mexico.
  • Travel Insurance Master — Mexico travel insurance search tool, for those who want to compare policies.
  • 👉 Click on any of the links above to get a FREE quote on your policy!

Oaxaca Travel: Frequently Asked Questions

Can you drink the water in oaxaca mexico.

No — Neither unfiltered Mexico tap water nor the drinking water in Oaxaca is safe for human consumption. However, you will need to keep drinking water and to stay extra hydrated, as Mexico is quite close to the Equator. In fact, dehydration is one of the most common ways people get sick in Mexico.

So what can you do?

  • If you’re renting an Airbnb with a kitchen, you can boil the water before drinking it.
  • You can keep buying bottled water — Though this gets expensive, and is horrible for the planet!
  • Use the Water-To-Go Filterable Bottle . This refillable bottle not only keeps you hydrated, but also filters your water so you don’t get sick in Mexico, and is good for the planet ♻️ Get 15% OFF with code SOLO15!

water bottles

The Water-To-Go Bottle has a built-in, three-stage filtration system that removes 99.9999% of all water-borne contaminants. These include bacteria, microplastics, viruses, heavy metals, chemicals and more. I personally own one, as you can drink Mexico water from any source (even the tap), and be completely safe.

packing list for mexico

🧳 Mexico Packing list

Wondering what else you need on your packing list for Mexico? Check out this guide — Ultimate Packing List for Mexico + FREE Checklist Download !

What’s the best time to visit Oaxaca Mexico?

The best time to visit is during the Oaxaca dry season from October to May . Overall, northern and central Oaxaca have a temperate, desert-like climate — though you’ll want to try to avoid the rainy season from April to September, as it rains quite a bit.

During the other months, you’ll enjoy warm, sunny days and cool, crisp nights.

The most popular time to visit Oaxaca is during Día de Muertos ( Day of the Dead ), held Nov. 1-2 each year. The Guelaguetza Festival in July is another popular time for Oaxaca travel.

The beaches of Oaxaca and beaches in Huatulco have a much more tropical climate than Oaxaca City. The rainy season lasts from April to late-October or November, and the coast of Oaxaca sees a lot  of rain.

The best time to visit the beaches of Oaxaca is from November to April , when the temperatures are mild and the humidity and mosquitoes are at bay. This is also during the annual whale migration, when pacific gray, humpback and blue whales swim along the coast of Oaxaca to their breeding grounds.

What’s the Oaxaca weather like?

Weather-wise, northern Oaxaca has deserts and mountains, so it’s more cool and dry. You will however, see quite a bit of rain during the Oaxaca rainy season from about April to September.

The Oaxaca beaches on the coast have a much more tropical climate, so expect warm temperatures year-round, and a lot of rain from about May to October.

☀️ Oaxaca City Weather: Temperature averages

oaxaca weather chart

Is Oaxaca worth visiting?

Yes — Oaxaca Mexico is a unique Mexico destination that so many types of travelers will want to check out.

From the food, art and culture in Oaxaca City, to the off the beaten path Pueblos Mancomunados and the Oaxaca magic mushroom town of San Jose del Pacifico , to the tropical Oaxaca beaches — there’s something for everyone.

How many days do I need in Oaxaca?

Ancient city with red-roofed buildings

A great place for slow travel in Mexico, you could spend a month in Oaxaca and not see all the top spots and hidden gems. From the mountains in the northern part of the state, to the beautiful beaches all the way south, and so much to see in between — Oaxaca state would make a great longer trip.

Since many travelers don’t have a month, you’d realistically need at least seven full days to explore both Oaxaca City and one or two Oaxaca beach towns . If you’re just staying in one part of the state, either the city or the beaches, four full days will suffice.

🗣 Mexico Language

Mexico Fun Fact : There’s actually no official language of Mexico!

Spanish is the most widely-spoken, so some mistakenly say Spanish is the official language of Mexico. However, the government actually recognizes 68 national languages, including the Nahuatl Aztec language, and the Maya language.

💰 Mexico Currency

Mexican Peso — Exchange rates vary, but have hovered around $18-21 pesos to $1 USD for about the last decade. You will find some places that take U.S. dollars, but usually at an unfavorable rate, so stick to using pesos in Mexico .

☀️ Mexico Weather

Mexico is a big country — the 7th largest on Earth, in fact! It’s hard to generalize the weather in Mexico, because it will vary greatly by where you’re traveling.

In general, temperatures are mostly mild everywhere all year long, though summers on the coast are hot and humid, and winters in Central and Northern Mexico are on the colder side. Throughout the whole country, the rainy season runs from (about) April through September.

✈️ Mexico Busy Season & Slow Season

• Mexico Busy Season: The busy season in Mexico runs October to March, as this is the dry season and you’ll get the best weather. December is the busiest month for tourism in Mexico.

• Mexico Slow Season : If you don’t mind some rain, you’ll often find the best travel deal during the Mexico slow season of April to September. Do keep in mind that June 1-November 1 is Hurricane Season, and Mexico beaches are all susceptible.

• Mexico Shoulder Season : The shoulder season is that magical time when prices are still low and the weather is good. The Mexico shoulder season is from about mid-October to November and January to early-April.

🧳 Download your FREE Mexico Packing Checklist here!

Check out this Ultimate Packing List for Mexico — so you know what to pack and what NOT to pack for Mexico! This article offers advice on packing for Mexico cities, and packing for a Mexico beach vacation.

Beyond what Mexico outfits and clothing you’ll want to bring, here are a few extra things to consider:

• Filterable Water Bottle: Mexico is close to the Equator, so you’ll need to stay extra hydrated. In fact, dehydration is one of the most common ways people get sick in Mexico.

A filterable, refillable water bottle not only keeps you hydrated, but also filters your water so you don’t get sick in Mexico.

The Water-To-Go Bottle has a built-in, three-stage filtration system that removes 99.9999% of all water-borne contaminants. These include bacteria, microplastics, viruses, heavy metals and chemicals.

• Mexico SIM Card: Want to be able to use your phone in Mexico?! Of course you do! Pick up a TELCEL Mexico SIM card before your trip, and swap it out on the plane while you’re waiting to exit, so you have phone and data service the second you arrive in Mexico.

•  Anti-Hangover Meds: Planning to party hardy?! Make sure you’re not wasting any of your precious travel time with a hangover. Liquid I.V. has about 70,000 reviews on Amazon, and is considered the best defense against a hangover.

•  Sun Hat: No matter if you’re headed to the beach or a city, you’ll want to wear a hat to shield yourself from the strong Mexican sun. This cute sun hat is the perfect stylish and practical accessory for your Mexico vacation.

•   Sunscreen: As you’ll want to reapply a few times throughout the day, a light, Mineral-Based Sunscreen is ideal.

Headed to the beach? Do your part to practice responsible tourism in Mexico by only using an eco-friendly reef safe sunscreen while swimming. You can even ditch the sunscreen altogether and opt for a long sleeve swimsuit (AKA rash guard) instead.

•   Bug Repellent: Mosquitoes are common throughout Mexico — especially on the beaches! REPEL Insect Repellent is an eco-friendly brand that’s DEET-free and plant based, with a pleasant lemon and eucalyptus scent. Don’t want to use a spray? Pick up some Mosquito Repellent Bracelets .

The vast majority of travelers do not need a visa for Mexico — this includes Americans, Canadians, and most Europeans. Head here to see if you need a Mexico travel visa.

🤔 What is the mexico FMM ?

When you go through Customs & Immigration to enter the country, you’ll receive your Forma Migratoria Multiple , or FMM Tourist Card (sometimes listed as FMT). If you’re coming by plane or cruise ship, there is no charge; for those driving across the border, the FMM costs about $30USD.

In most circumstances, all visitors get a 180-day (six month) visa — so you can legally stay up to six months!

🚨 Have your FMM on you at all times

Keep in mind that though it’s called an FMM card , it’s actually just a small piece of paper. Keep your FMM on you at all times in your wallet, as this proves your legal status in Mexico. It’s rare, but if an officer stops you, they can ask to see your FMM.

🎫 Don’t lose your FMM!

You need to have your FMM on you at all times, as proof of your legal status in the country.

Be sure to keep track of your FMM, as you’ll have to give it back to an Immigration officer at the airport, cruise port, or land crossing when you’re leaving the country.

If you lose your FMM, there is a $600 peso ($30 USD) cost to replace it, and some paperwork you’ll need to fill out before you can leave the country.

If you’re flying home, plan to arrive at the airport about one hour earlier than you normally would to do the paperwork and pay the fine.

As this question doesn’t have a yes/no answer ( I wish it did! ), I do my best to answer it in depth in this article, Is Mexico Safe for Travelers Right Now ? However, for the most part, Mexico is actually statistically quite safe for all travelers — including solo travelers.

Check my Solo Female Mexico Travel page for more info.

💃 Mexico solo travel guides

Mexico is a big country, and it has plenty of amazing solo female travel destinations — like the ones featured in this article, Mexico Solo Travel: 20 Safe Destinations for Female Travelers .

In it, you’ll get recommendations of places to visit in Mexico, from solo travelers who have actually been to them.

🎧 solo travel podcasts

• Ep. 34 |  Planning your first Mexico solo trip • Ep. 40 | Tips for safe solo travel in Mexico • Ep. 53 | 30 Solo female travel tips, Pt. 1

To answer the question, Is it safe to drive in Mexico? — YES , it’s considered safe to rent a car and drive in Mexico.

As the country is quite large, road trips are a great way to see a lot in a little time, and especially popular in the Yucatan Peninsula and Baja California Peninsula.

The one caveat to Mexico driving safety is that you’ll be in a foreign country, unfamiliar with their laws and customs. Head here for a complete guide to Renting A Car in Mexico: Everything You Need to Know , where you’ll also get 10 useful Mexico driving tips!

🚙💨 Looking for the best Mexico car rental company? Discover Cars works with both local Mexican companies and international companies to get you the best rates. Not only do I recommend them — I also use them!

Find Your Rental Car

As a general rule, you’ll want to know at least a few words of Spanish when visiting anywhere in Mexico. This is both a sign of respect, and will also help you have a better, smoother trip.

If you stick to the more touristic places in Mexico, you should be fine with basic Spanish. For those planning to venture off the beaten path, be advised most people in pueblos  (small towns) speak little to no English.

🗣 Here are some options:

  • Brush up on your Spanish: Use a language-learning program like Rocket Spanish , so you’re confident, and conversational, before your trip.
  • Download the Google Translate App: For this to work at all times, you’ll need a Mexico SIM card with data — as the app won’t work when you’re off-WiFi.
  • Travel with a Mexico phrasebook: This Lonely Planet Spanish Phrasebook is an Amazon best seller, and a great non-digital language assistant!
  • Save this infographic an image on your phone. This way, you have access to these common words, phrases and questions, even when you’re off-WiFi.

Global Gallivanting

Oaxaca travel guide: mexico’s most enchanting state (2024).

oaxaca travel guide

Oaxaca, Mexico has become something of a hotspot right now. Oaxaca is one of the most popular regions to visit in all of Mexico and for very good reason. This area is one of the most colorful and culturally important and safest states in Mexico. Oaxaca is also home to the best food in the country.

Oaxaca City was recently voted by Travel and Lesuire readers as the best city in the world and Oaxaca state also has many amazing destinations to visit and activities to do too.

In this comprehensive Oaxaca travel guide, we’ll explore everything you’ll need to know when planning a trip to Oaxaca, Mexico. We’ll look at how to get there, where to stay, how to stay safe, the best things to do, when to visit and much more in our Oaxaca travel blog.

Oaxaca Travel Guide

About oaxaca.

Let’s start our Oaxaca travel guide with an introduction of the state of Oaxaca, Mexico.

Oaxaca Quick Summary:

  • Where is it: Southern Mexico
  • Difficulty Getting There: Average
  • Time needed: 6 days
  • Best Time to Visit: April/September
  • Top Food/Drink: Memelas, Tejate
  • Our Favourite Gem: Monte Albán

Where is Oaxaca?

Oaxaca is one of the largest states in Mexico and is also one of the most southern in the country. Due to its size and positioning, it’s home to many different terrains such as mountains, rainforest as well as its long Pacific coast.

Is Oaxaca safe for tourists?

Oaxaca is often considered to be one of the safest regions to visit in Mexico. Violent crime against tourists is very rare, although pickpocketing can sometimes be an issue.

As always preparation is key, read some Oaxaca travel guides and blogs to know the safe areas and which to avoid.

In Oaxaca City, be sure to stay within the historic centre as further towards the outskirts can get rough around the edges.

In Puerto Escondido, most areas are safe, with Zicatela and La Punta being the more touristy and safe parts.

Oaxaca Travel Guide

How to get to Oaxaca

There are many ways of getting to Oaxaca. If arriving internationally, you’ll first need to fly into Mexico City’s international airport. From here, you can either take a domestic flight to Oaxaca City (around $60 and takes 1 hour), or to Puerto Escondido (around $70 and also around 1-hour flying).

From Mexico City, you can also take a bus to Oaxaca City, which takes around 7 hours.

If you are already in Mexico, you can also get to Oaxaca via the neighbouring regions of Chiapas (San Cristóbal de las Casas), Puebla (Puebla City), Guerrero (Acapulco) and also from Veracruz (Xalapa or Orizaba). Most have daily buses that make the direct journey.

Where to stay in Oaxaca

The state of Oaxaca has so much to explore. The colourful state capital, Oaxaca City, is one of the most colourful cities in Mexico . There’s plenty to see and do within the city and it also makes a great base for day trips out to explore the surrounding area which is full of interesting historical monuments and natural features.

No Oaxaca travel guide would be complete without mentioning the beautiful and unspoilt pacific coast beaches in Oaxaca.

playa carrizalillo beach puerto escondido oaxaca mexico

The most popular Oaxaca beaches include Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, both have airports which makes it easy to get there. These beaches are popular with surfers and yogis and offer a more authentic Mexico beach vacation than resorts like Cancun. There’s also the smaller beach towns of Mazunte and Zipolite – Mexico’s only nudist beach.

We recommend that you stay in both Oaxaca City and on one of the beaches for a full taste of all Oaxaca has to offer. You could also see both Oaxaca and Mexico City with this itinerary.

Where to stay in Oaxaca City

One of the best hotels to stay in is Hotel La Casa de Maria , which is perfectly located in the centre. La Noria Centro Histórico is another great hotel that is also close by.

If you want to save money you’ll find some of the best hostels in Mexico are found in Oaxaca City. Try places such as Casa Angel , or Iguana hostel for some of the best budget stays.

  • Where to stay in Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido is home to some of the best beaches in Oaxaca and has numerous places to stay including some fun surf and yoga camps.

Zicatela is where you’ll find one of Mexico’s best surf breaks and a lively nightlife scene. Hotel Arcoiris is almost on the beach and is the best option for a stay in Zicatela. La Punta is another area which is more laid back. The best hotel for a stay here is Casa Kuaa.

Read more here about the different areas and best places to stay in Puerto Escondido.

Best things to do in Oaxaca City

oaxaca church

There’s no shortage of great things to do in Oaxaca City, from wandering the colourful streets to visiting the historic churches and vibrant markets. Now let’s explore the very best things to do in Oaxaca City, as well as the top foods and nightlife.

Mercado 20 de Noviembre

This market is hands down the best in Oaxaca (and a strong contender for Mexico) for everything food. Here you’ll find many local stalls selling pretty much everything from local delicacies like Tlayudas to Tacos and beyond. Whilst the overhaul of smells and flavours can be overwhelming for some, it’s definitely worth a visit at least once whilst in Oaxaca.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

Arguably one of the most stunning churches in the country, Santo Domingo is adorned with gold around its altar, and overall is simply stunning. With over 20 rooms, you can learn about Oaxaca’s pre-Hispanic times which are detailed well through its murals.

The main square of Oaxaca City is where all the action is and simply cannot be missed. Here there’s always something on, whether it’s a parade or some local event. As well as being near all the top nightlife and restaurants, there are also some beautiful buildings and churches nearby too.

Best Day Trips from Oaxaca City

monte alban oaxaca mexico

No Oaxaca travel guide would be complete without mentioning some of the amazing day trips you can take from Oaxaca City. The sights just outside the city and definitely some of the best things to do in Oaxaca. The easiest way to visit these places is by taking a guided day trip. You can book online at Viator .

Monte Albán

These ruins really are spectacular, especially so as they’re located on the edge of a mountain overlooking the surrounding baron landscapes. A mix of Zapotec and Mixtec cultures can be found here, with many sprawling temples and lookout points to explore.

Monte Albán is around half an hour’s drive from Oaxaca City. If you want to learn more about this history to bring the ruins to life we recommend taking this guided tour.

Hierve el Agua

A petrified waterfall that overlooks a row of canyons, it’s safe to say this is a must-stop when in Oaxaca. As well as exploring the site, there’s also a natural infinity pool which is perfect for a quick dip in the hot Mexican Sun.

You can reach this site from Oaxaca City in around 2 hours by car. Or take this tour to combine hiking, swimming and mezcal tasting in one fun day trip.

hierve el agua oaxaca mexico

Where to Eat in Oaxaca City

Oaxaca City is famed for its food, which is without a doubt the best in the country. For those who are backpacking in Mexico or are just looking for an authentic experience, head to Mercado 20 de Noviembre where you can try unique foods made by vendors.

If you’d prefer to be shown straight to the best, and safest, street food stalls this Oaxaca food tour will take your taste buds on an adventure through no less than twenty different local dishes at the markets and street food stalls! It’s a great way to learn about the city and Oaxacan culture through its markets and food.

Oaxaca cooking classes are a popular and fun way of immersing yourself in the local culture and learning how to make some of the uniquely Oaxacan dishes yourself. The best experiences include a guided visit to the market to gather your ingredients before learning how to make traditional Oaxacan recipes in a small friendly group.

Head to Casa Oaxaca for a more upscale experience, where you can try both regional delicacies as well as some of the top National dishes.

Oaxaca Nightlife

Most of the top nightlife in Oaxaca City is located near the Zócalo, in the heart of the city. Whilst you can find other places further afield, these will be more frequented by locals and are in less safe areas.

You’ll want to kick off your night in a mezcal bar, with Oaxaca arguably the best in the country. Mezcalería In Situ is the best, with over 200 different varieties of the good stuff. Los Amantes is another good option. Afterward either head to La Cantinita for a good atmosphere or Txalaparta for a wide range of music styles.

The Best Time to Visit Oaxaca

As already mentioned, the region of Oaxaca is varied and has climates ranging from hot Pacific beaches to cool mountainous towns. Fortunately, there is however both a dry and wet season that is the same in all regions.

The dry season runs from November until April. In Oaxaca City, average temperatures range from 63-72°F, with highs of up to 87°F and lows of down to 48°F. The rainfall here ranges from 0.3-1 inch each throughout each month.

In Puerto Escondido, temperatures are much hotter with averages of between 83-86°F, highs of 95°F and lows of 72°F. The rainfall here and along the coast ranges from 0-0.5 inches each month during the dry season.

The contrasting wet season runs from May up to late October. In Oaxaca City, average temperatures are warmer and range from 67-72°F, with highs of 85°F and lows of 56°F. Rainfall during the wet season averages between 3-6.5 inches for each month.

In Puerto Escondido, temperatures can get very hot, with averages ranging between 85-87°F, with highs of 94°F and lows of 77°F. Rainfall during the wet season in Puerto ranges from 2-7 inches throughout each month.

Oaxaca Culture and History

colourful textiles in oaxaca, mexico

Oaxaca is one of the most diverse areas of Mexico, home to indigenous tribes such as the Zapotec and Mixtecs which are still alive today despite the arrival of the Aztecs. Much of their artisanal knowledge and handicrafts have been passed down through the generations, making Oaxaca one of the best places to buy novelties.

Best Oaxaca Events and Festivals

We can’t finish our Oaxaca travel guide before letting you know about the events and festivities that Oaxaca is famous for. In early February, the Festival of the Virgin of the Candelaria is celebrated which is one of the biggest cultural festivals in Oaxaca. Here you’ll see large parades throughout the historic centre, and is also a popular time to eat Tamales, which is part of the local custom.

If you want to experience an awesome food festival, then on the 1st of May Oaxaca City hosts its annual Feria de la Tortilla. There are many demonstrations and food-based competitions all over the city and is a great opportunity to try some of the best delicacies from the Oaxaca region and also further afield in Mexico.

Other important and lively festivals (which are also celebrated in Puerto Escondido) include Mexico’s Revolution Day (16th September) and also The Day of the Dead (1st/2nd November).

In Puerto Escondido, you’ll find lively parties and excuses to celebrate pretty much every day of the week! Simply ask the locals or ex-pats and you’ll find where the hotspots are.

Our Top Recommendations

– If heading between Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido, be sure to look at flight prices as these can be similar to that of the bus (and also many tend to get sick on the bus as it’s constantly swerving along mountainous roads!).

– In Oaxaca City, be sure to stay within the Historic Centre which is the safest area, as well as closest to all of the best sites.

– Visiting in March or April is great as the weather is still within the dry season, and it’ll be cheaper too as it’s not a peak travel season. September is also great and cheap if you don’t mind a shower or two every now and then.

To finish our Oaxaca Travel Guide

And that’s all for our travel guide to Oaxaca.

One of the most diverse areas of Mexico to explore, here there’s everything from tropical Pacific beaches and mountains to incredible Aztec Ruins. The food here is also the best you can try in Mexico.

In this Oaxaca travel guide, we’ve explored the best areas to visit and covered important information such as how to get there, where to stay, what to do and how to stay safe. We’ve also included our top recommendations based on our own time spent here.

If you want to see more of Mexico then how about combining visiting Oaxaca with exploring exciting Mexico City too. See how to do all this with our 2 week offbeat Mexico itinerary.

We hope our Oaxaca travel guide has helped you to plan an amazing trip to Oaxaca!

More Mexico Travel Blogs:

  • Itinerary for Mexico City and Oaxaca
  • Puerto Escondido Travel Guide
  • Mazunte Travel Guide
  • Zipolite Travel Guide
  • Where to stay in Mexico City
  • Best Yoga Retreats in Mexico
  • Best Surf Camps in Mexico

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Oaxaca is a great place to learn Spanish, with many language schools offering intensive courses and cultural activities.

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person cooking

Why mole is Oaxaca's most famous dish

Mexico's culinary heartland, Oaxaca is famed for its array of complex, spiced sauces, known as moles. So much more than side dishes, they're very often the main event.

“If we’re going to talk moles, what better place to do so?” asks chef Carina Santiago, as she welcomes me to the al fresco kitchen of her restaurant, Tierra Antigua. Campfire aromas mingled with the scent of dark chocolate fill the air, accompanied by a distinct rustling noise. It’s the sound of the escobetilla — a densely bristled broom, which a member of kitchen staff is using to move cacao seeds around, flicking her wrist back and forth as she does so.    

The cacao is toasting on a comal — a large, flat ceramic griddle first created by the Indigenous Zapotecs — which is ubiquitous in Oaxacan cuisine. Held up by two adobe bricks, the comal is elevated just enough so the wood fire beneath can lick its underbelly, transmitting heat evenly across the griddle. Outdoor cocinas de humo (‘smoke kitchens’) like this have been used by generations of Oaxacans to make their moles.  

A sauce, a dish, a food, a tradition, a technique, a celebration: mole isn’t one single thing. With a name originating from the Nahuatl (Aztec) word ‘mōlli’, meaning ‘sauce’, this is a foodstuff that incorporates influences from Indigenous Mexico, Europe and even the Middle East. Recipes are studded with ingredients native to these regions, including chilli, chocolate, olives, cinnamon and raisins.  

Endless variations exist, but each mole tends to feature a common technique and presentation: ingredients are toasted separately, ground into a paste, fried, then loosened with chicken stock (usually) before being served alongside some form of protein (often), rice (sometimes) and tortillas (always). There’s no shortage of great food here in Oaxaca — Mexico’s culinary heartland — but it’s the moles that are prized above all else.  

Oaxaca is famed as the ‘land of seven moles’ — a gastronomic slogan spun decades ago to advertise the mole festival in the southern Mexican state, back when it had seven regions (today it has eight). I learn this from Olga Cabrera, chef and owner of local institution Tierra del Sol. Olga hails from the mountainous region of La Mixteca but came to Oaxaca city over 20 years ago to raise her family and open her first restaurant. “When I began to cook here in the Central Valleys, I wondered why there were seven moles. I myself had eight and not one of them was part of ‘the seven’,” she tells me.

Olga’s restaurant is known for its 30-plus mole recipes. My walk there takes me past Santo Domingo, the baroque church that serves as the central hub of downtown Oaxaca, and past street vendors hawking huipiles (traditional clothing) and Styrofoam cups of street corn, before turning down the cobblestone walkway toward Tierra del Sol. I sit on the rooftop terrace overlooking the entrance to the botanic gardens, while the sun sets behind the Sierra Norte Mountains, pulling the heat from the day down with it. I sip a mezcal, neat, while I wait for the Tres Generaciones mole — Olga’s recommendation — to arrive.

person making a tortilla

Jutting out of a rust-coloured sauce is the slim, foot-long leg bone of an heirloom turkey, blanketed with aromatic mole. The mole itself is velvety and weighty, a good match for the tender smoked meat, and has a slow heat that creeps up my tongue from the back of my palate. My mental Rolodex of flavours whirls as I taste chocolate, peanuts, sesame seeds and thyme, all of which I know it contains. I coat my spoon with the creamy sauce, lift it to my nose and inhale. I smell, taste and smell again, desperate to identify more of the 27 ingredients. Yet I struggle to pinpoint specific flavour profiles — a fact not entirely unexpected. They say the essence of a great mole transcends its individual components.

The complexity of Tres Generaciones is on my mind as I sit down with chef Jorge León the next evening at his acclaimed restaurant, Alfonsina. “We just see a plate of mole, but we don’t know all the work there is behind it,” he says. “People think mole is just a jarred chilli paste,” he adds, in reference to the pre-ground blend available at markets and shops throughout the city. “But mole is a process — it’s going to collect the chillies, cleaning them, deseeding them and toasting them.”

Chillies are just one component; the same procedure must be gone through with the other tens of ingredients, which vary depending on the mole in question and can include almonds, chocolate, peanuts, banana, cloves, raisins, pineapple and fresh or dried herbs, alongside staples such as onions and tomatoes.  

At Alfonsina, Jorge eschews traditional ingredients like the pork lard, for frying the paste, and the chicken stock, used to loosen the mole into a sauce, instead relying on seeds for fat content and vegetable stock. The result comes alive on the palate. It’s the lightest, most vibrant mole coloradito — a guajillo-chilli-based variety — I’ve ever tasted. Jorge serves his version with a thick, flaky and tender mahi mahi fillet, and it’s spectacular.  

In other ways, Jorge’s dishes, including the moles, are the epitome of ancestral, incorporating as many ingredients native to Oaxaca’s various microclimates as possible. “That a tortilla would be made from quality, local corn — that’s how I see contemporary cuisine,” he says. For Jorge, returning to his roots is an innovation. “Cooking with what we’ve always had, that is contemporary,” he tells me.

At Levadura de Olla, chef Thalia Barrios García also designs her menus to emphasise the depth and breadth of the state’s larder. During the rainy season, when wild mushrooms crop up across the cloud forests of Oaxaca, Thalia prepares a duo of foraged-mushroom moles that are dished up alongside one another. The mole de cenizo is rustic and roughly ground, served with burnt tortillas and toasted chillies. Light in body with a good amount of smoke and a touch of bitterness, it’s topped with brunoise enchilado de monte mushrooms, giving it additional heft and texture. Plated alongside it is mole verde, which stands in contrast as a bright, herbaceous, acidic dish with slick ribbons of pan de indio mushrooms throughout. As Thalia says, “it tastes of the countryside”.

( Photo story: savouring the street food of Oaxaca, Mexico ).

A sacred act

The following afternoon, curious to try the famed seven moles served alongside each other, I make my way past bustling Zócalo plaza in search of Restaurante Coronita. Here, around a heavily lacquered mahogany table, is strung fuchsia, indigo and lime-green papel picado (traditional perforated paper bunting). The waitress assures me that, yes, the mole flight is filling, and when the seven red clay bowls arrive on a single platter, each dotted with shredded chicken or pork, any doubts are assuaged.

person grinding ingredients

She recommends I begin with the chichilo, amarillo and verde, before moving on to the manchamantel, almendrado, coloradito and negro. The almendrado is my favourite, its Moorish influence apparent in the sweetness of raisins, the delicate fruitiness of almonds, and the hunks of briny Manzanilla olives.  

In popular food culture, mole is a culinary embodiment of mestizaje, the narrative pushed by post-Mexican revolution nation-building elites in the early 1900s, which emphasised the diverse roots of Mexicans as a point of unity, while downplaying individual racial and ethnic identities. Mestizaje propagated the idea that all Mexicans were the same, a single race and national identity, despite the rampant racism and classism that continues to this day. Mole — with its Indigenous and European origins — became the dish to embody a blended, united Mexico.  

On the ground in Oaxaca, however, it’s more emblematic of the Oaxacan penchant for celebration. “Mole is a special occasion,” says Jorge. There’s a different type of mole for every event — and its preparation can span days. “When you get married, there’s mole. When you die, there’s mole. For every celebration, we have a mole,” Thalia tells me.  

Regional variations in recipes abound, as does the specific mole for each occasion. In the Central Valleys region, where Oaxaca city is located, mole chichilo is most often made for funerals. “We all have that lump in our throat when a family member passes away, and the intensity of mole chichilo eases our tension and grief,” Thalia adds.  

Yet, in Teotitlán del Valle, a Central Valleys village just 20 miles outside the city, it’s mole amarillo that’s made in homage to the deceased. It’s also here that Carina Santiago’s family recipes and two restaurants have made her a well-known maestra of moles. Driving from Oaxaca, I take a dusty turn off the highway and onto the two-lane road that brings me into town. Brick compounds that double as family homes and weaving studios line the road, their foot-loomed geometric rugs hanging against the building, rustling in the arid wind.

Seated in her kitchen, Carina tells me her family’s mole story, which goes back several generations. How her great-grandmother taught her to “always treat the ingredients with the respect they deserve”, she says. How the gruelling physicality of making mole — cleaning the chillies, toasting the ingredients, grinding them all together, by hand, with the metate (a sloped, knee-high, four-legged basalt grindstone) is tantamount to a sacred act. “Even kneeling to use the metate is a form of respect,” Carina tells me.

Not all mole is made with the metate, however. When it comes to large celebrations for which hand-milling would be unduly onerous, the ingredients are brought to the town molino, or grinder. Even then, Carina says, mole should be ground with a stone mill, so as to most closely replicate the effects of the metate — although many Mexican home cooks just use a blender.

At Carina’s restaurant, Tierra Antigua, I order the Cerdito de Fiesta (fried pork ribs in a chileajo mole). A burnt-orange sauce arrives with a sprig of coriander alongside a small mound of rice cooked in chicken stock and a basket of blue-corn tortillas. Taking one of the soft, pliable tortillas, I bring it to my nose and breathe in. Even after having lived in Oaxaca for over four years, doing so is still a delight. The chileajo, meanwhile, is light in texture and has a decent amount of heat — the kind that fools you at first, building slowly from the throat. Its name translates as ‘chilli-garlic’, and the sauce’s sweet allium bite is a punch to my taste buds. It’s savoury, tangy, bright and spicy, each spoonful revealing something new.  

Heading back to Oaxaca, I pass a sea of blue-green agave fields, the clouds clinging to the Sierra Norte Mountains in the distance. I’ve tasted many moles, each with its own distinct, layered flavour — but I’m nowhere near having tried them all. As Jorge says, “Oaxaca doesn’t have just seven moles, it has infinite moles.”  

Related Topics

  • FOOD TOURISM
  • FOOD HISTORY
  • FOOD CULTURE
  • FOOD AND THE ENVIRONMENT

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tc hotel awards 2024 the best looking new minimalist hotels

T&C Hotel Awards 2024: The Best New Minimalist Hotels

When less is more, here are some perfectly pared-down places.

the tc hotel awards 2024

Sea Cabins at Manshausen, Norway

sea cabins at manshausen island, norway

Even by Norwegian standards, 14-acre Manshausen Island is out there, a place for close encounters with the extreme north.It’s also home to one of Norway’s architectural wonders: The Sea Cabins at Manshausen . The glass-walled Sea Cabins, brain child of Arctic explorer Borge Ousland, give you front-row seats on some of nature’s most impressive spectacles, from the midnight sun to the northern lights. Two new "sea towers," named Nansen and Amundsen, for two of Norway's famous explorers, even have glass roofs so you can count the stars from bed. More arduous pursuits? Plenty. Such as the Nordskot Traverse, a trail with cliffs falling away to each side. —John Newton

To book a trip to Norway, contact Torunn Tronsvang of UpNorway , [email protected]

Boca de Agua, Mexico

hotel boca de agua by frida escobedoin mexico's yucatan

Star Mexican architect Frida Escobedo, who in 2018 designed London’s Serpentine Pavilion and is at work on the modern and contemporary wing of New York’s Metropolitan Museum, has built a hotel on Yucatan’s aqua-blue Bacalar lagoon. The 26 understated rooms of Boca de Agua use tropical woods (responsibly sourced), are flooded with sunlight that pours in through what are more windows than walls, and sit atop pillars—creating a treehouse effect and reducing environmental impact. Escobedo’s hope is that over time the hotel will further integrate into its tropical setting; as you'll wish you could after a few days here. —John Newton

To book a trip to Mexico, contact Zachary Rabinor of Journey Mexico, [email protected]

The Bolder, Norway

the bolder hotel on lysefjord by norwegian design firm snohett

Not far from Stavanger in southern Norway, Lysefjord cuts a dramatic path through mountains that rise thousands of feet along each of its shores. The latest addition to this visual feast is some cutting-edge Scandinavian design by Snøhetta, the Norwegian firm behind the Oslo Opera House and the Bibliotheca Alexandrina in Egypt: The Bolder and its minimalist concrete-and-glass Sky Lodges, which appear to float above the fjord. Their muted interiors are pared back but warm, and the effect is somewhere between a cozy treetop aerie and a Bond-like modernist lair. —John Newton

To book a trip to Norway: Torunn Tronsvang of UpNorway, [email protected]

Otro, Oaxaca

otro hotel in oaxaca, overlooked by a baroque church

Hotels in this culinary and cultural capital of Mexico can often go overboard with handicrafts when it comes to their interiors. The 16-room Otro Oaxaca , from Mexico’s Grupo Habita (which over more than two decades has worked with talented architects and designers, both Mexican and international), opts for a very different look: that of a soothing oasis, at once modernist and inspired by ancient Mesoamerican sites like nearby Mitla. Raw concrete and brick buildings sit on the hotel’s courtyards offering picturesque perspectives while a rooftop terrace has views of the nearby Santo Domingo church, a Baroque gem. The rooms may feel spartan to some, but their simplicity focuses attention on the local elements of their design, like woven bedspreads and reclaimed wood walls. —John Newton

Longfellow Hotel, Portland, Maine

longfellow hotel portland maine lounge area

This new independent, family owned and operated hotel takes to heart the philosophy of its namesake, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, who once wrote, “In character, in manners, in style, in all things, the supreme excellence is simplicity.” Think less a modernist aesthetic here, more a certain timeless New England restraint. The guest rooms at the Longfellow are comfortable and not flashy, with soaking tubs and views of Portland from TRNK couches. (The design is by Brooklyn-based Post Company, masters of an inviting vintage aesthetic.) The hotel also leans into a wellness theme, with its Astraea spa and healthy menu options at the Twinflower Café. When cocktail hour rolls around at the Five of Clubs lounge, you’ll arrive glowing. —John Newton

To book: Longfellow

Our Method : To compile this list of great-looking new hotels around the world, we followed not whimsy but rules: 1) They had to have opened no earlier than 2023. 2) They had to have been nominated by eithe r T&C ’s well traveled editors or our roundtable of 37 globetrotting travel advisors (preferably both). There were 172 nominees, and 53 made it through our vetting process. Bon voyage!

Headshot of Klara Glowczewska

Klara Glowczewska is the Executive Travel Editor of Town & Country , covering topics related to travel specifically (places, itineraries, hotels, trends) and broadly (conservation, culture, adventure), and was previously the Editor in Chief of Conde Nast Traveler magazine. 

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Workers sue mushroom farm over 2023 mass shooting that left seven dead

An exterior view of the scene near a shooting in Half Moon Bay, Calif.

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A Half Moon Bay mushroom farm failed to protect the workers living there from a gunman who targeted them in 2023, resulting in a deadly mass shooting, according to a pair of lawsuits filed against the employer.

Prosecutors have charged Chunli Zhao, 67, in the deaths of seven people who were fatally shot at California Terra Garden and Concord Farm, two places where Zhao had worked. Prosecutors allege the deadly rampage was sparked after Zhao was told by a supervisor that he’d have to foot the $100 bill to fix a damaged forklift.

Zhao, who is awaiting trial, is expected to appear in court this month. But a pair of lawsuits filed Wednesday allege that Xianmin Guan, one of the owners of California Terra Garden, failed not just to provide decent housing to its workers but also to protect them from a co-worker who had a violent past.

“There were red flags that showed the shooter had a violent history, including from people he lived with,” said Duffy Magilligan, an attorney representing Pedro Felix Romero Perez, who survived the rampage despite being shot five times. “There was also a history of violent activity at the farm.”

Magilligan and his law firm also filed a second lawsuit on behalf of the family of Perez’s brother, Jose Romero Perez, who was killed in the shooting.

FILE - In this May 12, 2020, file photo, farmworkers, considered essential workers under the current COVID-19 pandemic, harvest beans in Homestead, Fla. Many U.S. health centers that serve agricultural workers across the nation are receiving COVID-19 vaccine directly from the federal government in a program created by the Biden administration. But in some states, farmworkers are not yet in the priority groups authorized to receive the shots. (AP Photo/Lynne Sladky, File)

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Guan and representatives of California Terra Garden did not immediately respond to messages requesting comment about the lawsuits.

Pedro Felix Romero Perez had been living and working at California Terra Gaden since 2021, Magilligan said. His older brother, Jose Romero Perez, later migrated from Oaxaca, Mexico, to Half Moon Bay and joined his brother at the farm. The elder Perez left behind his wife and four children in Oaxaca, Magilligan said, for whom he was the primary means of support.

The two brothers chose to live at the farm, paying rent to its owners, because they didn’t own a car.

The lawsuits reiterate some of the claims that were made after the Jan. 23, 2023, shooting left seven farmworkers dead — that farmworkers were living in deplorable, makeshift homes at one of the farms where they were targeted by a gunman.

“The brothers and other farmworkers’ homes had floors made of plywood, walls covered in plastic, and makeshift wood-burning stoves for heating food,” one of the suits alleges.

Beyond providing inadequate housing, the lawsuit alleges, the owners of California Terra Garden, Inc., namely CTG and Guan, “failed to adequately secure their premises against reasonably foreseeable criminal acts.”

SANTA MONICA, CA - JANUARY 9, 2024 - Pedestrians walk past a shuttered Sweet Lady Jane bakery along Montana Avenue in Santa Monica on January 9, 2024. The beloved bakery, unexpectedly closed its six locations on New Year's Day, citing a lack of a sales. However, the company has been embroiled in a class action lawsuit for the past year over wage abuse allegations. The move blindsided workers and customers, who were all under the impression the business was doing well. (Genaro Molina/Los Angeles Times)

Sweet Lady Jane bakery faced class-action lawsuit for wage theft before sudden closure

Sweet Lady Jane, the local bakery chain beloved for its Triple Berry Cake, stunned customers when it ceased operations on New Year’s Day. For seven months, court records show, the company had been embroiled in a class-action lawsuit alleging wage theft.

Jan. 13, 2024

The lawsuit points to another shooting that occurred at the farm seven months before the mass shooting. During the July 1, 2022, incident, a man tried to break into one of the trailers and threatened to kill the farmworker living there and his family, firing one shot into the trailer, the lawsuit says.

The suit also claims that the owners of the farm were aware of Chunli Zhao’s violent history, including a 2013 restraining order filed against him by his roommate. The roommate claimed Zhao tried to suffocate him with a pillow during one attack, and days later threatened to use a knife to cut the roommate’s head if Zhao couldn’t come back to work.

Despite being aware of the incidents, Magilligan said, the farm took no steps to protect workers, leading to the mass shooting.

According to the suits, Zhao first shot a farmworker at California Terra Garden, then shot and killed a supervisor there.

The 67-year-old then started to make his way to the farm encampment, where several of the workers lived.

“Zhao faced no obstacles or deterrents on route to the encampment,” the lawsuit states.

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Zhao went inside the trailer the Perez brothers shared and shot both of them, the lawsuit alleges. Magilligan said Pedro is still recovering from his wounds and has been unable to return to work.

Prosecutors allege that Zhao continued on his shooting rampage, driving two miles to Concord Farms and targeting more people whom he allegedly held long-running grudges against.

After the shooting, the farm was cited by Cal/OSHA for 22 violations, including failing to establish procedures to identify hazards posed by an active shooter and evaluate dangers posed by workers threatening physical violence.

“Every landowner has a duty to provide protection to the people who are on their property, and that applies to landlords like this mushroom farm,” Magilligan said. “The evidence of the Cal OSHA investigation just goes to show the extent to which the farm wasn’t doing anything to protect their workers.”

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oaxaca travel tips

Salvador Hernandez is a reporter on the Fast Break Desk, the Los Angeles Times’ breaking news team. Before joining the newsroom in 2022, he was a senior reporter for BuzzFeed News, where he covered criminal justice issues, the growing militia movement and breaking news. He also covered crime as a reporter at the Orange County Register. He is a Los Angeles native.

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  1. Oaxaca Travel Guide (Updated 2024)

    Oaxaca hosts one of the biggest festivals in all of Mexico. It's one of the best (and busiest) times to visit Oaxaca. Be sure to book your accommodation early as hotels and hostels sell out months in advance. If you want a local guide during the Day of the Dead, expect to pay around 1,250 MXN.

  2. 10 things to know before going to Oaxaca

    Here are 10 things you should know when planning your trip to Oaxaca City. 1. Book ahead for Día de Muertos and Guelaguetza. Reserve accommodations months in advance if you plan on visiting in November for Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) or in July for the Guelaguetza Festival (a renowned cultural event showcasing Oaxaca's folkloric dance ...

  3. Oaxaca de Juárez Destination Guide: Best Things to Do

    Oaxaca, Mexico, was named the No. 1 city in the world, according to Travel + Leisure readers. Here is a rundown of the best things to do in Oaxaca.

  4. 19 Tips for Travelling to Oaxaca, Mexico

    19. Pack travel insurance. Oaxaca is pretty safe, but if I'm travelling internationally, I always arrange travel insurance. Start your search for travel insurance providers on Travel Insurance Master, where you can compare providers and policies. Wrap up: Oaxaca travel tips. Oaxaca is one of my absolute favourite cities in the entire world.

  5. How to Spend 5 Days in Oaxaca (Updated 2024)

    Just 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the center of Oaxaca, in the humble town of Santa María del Tule, is the world's widest tree. Estimated to be 1,500-3,000 years old, this Montezuma cypress (Mexico's national tree) has a diameter of about 14 meters (46 feet) and is a magnificent sight to behold. ***. Oaxaca quickly becomes a favorite of ...

  6. The Ultimate Oaxaca Travel Guide

    The Ultimate Oaxaca Travel Guide. Welcome to a land bursting with vibrant cultures, rich history, world-renowned cuisine, and breathtaking landscapes! Oaxaca State, located in southern Mexico, is where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with natural wonders. From archaeological sites and colonial cities to pine forests and pristine beaches ...

  7. Traveling to Oaxaca City: Your Ultimate Travel Guide [2024]

    Mexico City to Oaxaca Drive. For those who love a good road trip, pick up your rental car in Mexico City, and hit the road. The drive from Mexico City to Oaxaca City will take about 6-8 hours; while Mexico City to Puerto Escondido, Huatulco and the other Oaxaca beaches will take closer to 11-12 hours.

  8. Oaxaca Travel Guide: Tips, Top Sights, & When To Visit

    When to Visit Oaxaca. November to April is the dry season and the overall most popular time to explore Oaxaca. Due to its average elevation of 1,555 m (5,102 ft), Oaxaca's climate is milder than the low-laying parts of Mexico. Mornings can be a bit chilly, with hot afternoons.

  9. Oaxaca travel

    Oaxaca. Mexico, North America. The state of Oaxaca (wah-hah-kah) has a special magic felt by Mexicans and foreigners alike. A bastion of indigenous culture, it's home to the country's most vibrant crafts and art scene, some outstandingly colorful and extroverted festivities, a uniquely savory cuisine and diverse natural riches.

  10. Oaxaca Travel Guide (2024)

    If you head to the coast, use this thorough Travel Guide to Puerto Escondido. My Favorite Oaxaca Travel Experiences: Volunteering with En Vía and learning more about the region's indigenous cultures and how microfinance is helping them better their lives. Visiting the Zapotec cities and villages east of Oaxaca, like Teotitlán and others.

  11. Oaxaca blog

    Oaxaca once ranked 5th in the 7 most wonderful cities in the world in 2019 voted by Travel + Leisure magazine. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage city. Coming here, international visitors are often especially impressed with the interesting eco-tourism places. Oaxaca is famous for its bioluminescent beaches, majestic mountains and interesting archaeological sites. […]

  12. Oaxaca Travel Guide

    Guide to the best hotels and things to do in Oaxaca. Maps, travel tips and more.

  13. Oaxaca Travel Guide

    Oaxaca enjoys a pleasant climate year-round. The warmest months are usually April and May, when daytime temps can reach into the 90s, but since it is a dry heat, it's invariably pleasant in the shade. The rainy season begins in late spring and continues through to early fall. You can expect rain in the afternoons during that time of year, but ...

  14. Travel To Oaxaca: Your Ultimate Guide to Oaxaca Mexico

    I have lived in Mexico since 2018, and visited 19 out of 32 states so far (many as a solo female traveler). At this point, you might say I'm a Mexpert! Today, I use my knowledge & insider tips to help travelers just like you plan the Mexico trip of your dreams, travel to Mexico confidently & safely, and cross Mexico off your bucket list.

  15. 10 Things To Do In Oaxaca: Complete Guide To Colonial Mexico

    Here is the ultimate travel guide to Oaxaca. 1 Stop By The Mercado Benito Juárez. Shutterstock. Mitla Oaxaca Mexico, Aerial View Drone. Address: Las Casas S/N, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico Hours: Monday - Friday from 9 AM to 5 PM

  16. Oaxaca Travel Guide

    The city lies at the heart of the state in the Valles Centrales region, on the edge of the Sierra Madre. Oaxaca lies about 460 km southeast of Mexico City, 340 km southeast of Puebla, and 450 km south of Veracruz. Non-stop flights to Oaxaca take 3 hours 50 minutes from Los Angeles, 2 hours 55 minutes from Dallas, and just 50 minutes from Mexico ...

  17. Oaxaca 101

    In Oaxaca, the Reforma neighborhood has excellent restaurants, more space, a lower key vibe, and is undoubtedly cheaper. It doesn't have the same history or sightseeing as downtown and it's across a busy road, but it's easily walkable. Our travel guide touches on Reforma but there's definitely more to explore there.

  18. Oaxaca Travel Guide

    Get information on Oaxaca Travel Guide - Expert Picks for your Vacation hotels, restaurants, entertainment, shopping, sightseeing, and activities. Read the Fodor's reviews, or post your own.

  19. Oaxaca Travel Guide

    10 days / from1695 USD. Oaxacan Coast Adventure. Adventure awaits you on this trip to the Oaxacan coast, a place as spectacular as the activities you will do. From a boat trip to the beautiful bays of Huatulco to a warm horseback ride on the seashore in Puerto Escondido.

  20. Ultimate Oaxaca Travel Guide for Mexico Travelers in 2024

    The annual Oaxaca Day of the Dead celebration is one of the most fun times to travel to Oaxaca, Mexico. ️ Airport: Oaxaca Airport (code: OAX), Puerto Escondido Airport (code: PVR), Huatulco Airport (code: HUX) ⏰ Time Zone: Central Daylight Time (GMT-5) 💰 Currency: Mexican Peso. 🗣 Language: Spanish, though English is common, and you ...

  21. Oaxaca Travel Tips

    Oaxaca Temazcal: Experience a Traditional Temazcal in Oaxaca. Ultimate Guide for traveling to Oaxaca, Mexico. We create travel guides and travel tips for Oaxaca - both the city and the state.

  22. Oaxaca Travel Guide: Mexico's Most Enchanting State (2024)

    In Oaxaca City, average temperatures are warmer and range from 67-72°F, with highs of 85°F and lows of 56°F. Rainfall during the wet season averages between 3-6.5 inches for each month. In Puerto Escondido, temperatures can get very hot, with averages ranging between 85-87°F, with highs of 94°F and lows of 77°F.

  23. Oaxaca 's Tourist Guide

    Award-winning travel Guide for the State and City of Oaxaca: 1000+ photographs and 400+ pages of text describing all Natural and Cultural Attractions of Oaxaca, including Huatulco, Puerto Escondido, the Guelaguetza, Mitla, Monte Albán, and many more. Also contains travel tips for Oaxaca, local events and activities, up-to-date weather forecast ...

  24. What is Oaxacan mole and where to eat it

    Mexico's culinary heartland, Oaxaca is famed for its array of complex, spiced sauces, known as moles. So much more than side dishes, they're very often the main event. To make mole, Oaxacans use ...

  25. 5 Best New Minimalist Hotels

    The minimalist Otro hotel in Oaxaca, overlooked by a Baroque church. ... They had to have been nominated by either T&C's well traveled editors or our roundtable of 37 globetrotting travel ...

  26. Workers sue mushroom farm over 2023 mass shooting that left seven dead

    Pedro Felix Romero Perez had been living and working at California Terra Gaden since 2021, Magilligan said. His older brother, Jose Romero Perez, later migrated from Oaxaca, Mexico, to Half Moon ...