where to visit in north korea

Top North Korea Attractions

Things to do in north korea.

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1. Demilitarized Zone

2. Tower of the Juche Idea

3. Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

4. Geumsusan Memorial Palace

5. Kim Il-sung Square

6. Mansudae Grand Monument

7. The State Circus

8. Kim Il Sung Stadium

9. Concrete Wall

10. Triumphal Arch

11. Masikryong Ski Resort

12. Tanjun Mausoleum

13. Rungrado May Day Stadium

14. Monument to the Korean Workers Party

15. Mount Kumgang

16. Daedong River (Taedong River)

17. Grand People's Study House

18. Munsu Water Park

19. Pyongyang Metro

20. Paektusan

21. Mansudae Art Studio Gallery

22. Koryo Museum

23. Koguryo Tombs

24. International Friendship Exhibition

25. Chollima Statue

26. Tomb of King Kongmin

27. Kaeson Youth Park

28. Kwangbok Department Store

29. Pohyonsa

30. Mount Myohyang

What travelers are saying.

Eric Lafforgue

North Korea

There is quite simply nowhere on Earth like North Korea. Now on its third hereditary ruler, this nominally communist state has defied all expectations and survived the collapse of the Soviet Union to become a nuclear power. A visit to North Korea offers a glimpse of the world's most isolated nation, where the internet and much of the 21st century remain relatively unknown, and millions live their lives in the shadow of an all-encompassing personality cult.

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Tower of the Juche Idea

This tower honours the North Korean philosophy of Juche and was unveiled to mark President Kim Il-sung's 70th birthday in 1982. Indeed, the tower is made…

International Friendship Exhibition

This exhibition hosts a massive display of gifts given to Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and Kim Jong-un. Housed in a mountainside vault that is vaguely…

Tomb of King Kongmin

The 31st Koryo king, Kongmin reigned between 1352 and 1374 and his tomb is the best preserved and most elaborate in the country. It is richly decorated…

Monument to the Foundation of the Workers' Party

This startlingly bombastic monument has starred on the cover of more books about North Korea than almost any other. The three hands portrayed represent…

Mansudae Grand Monument

Every itinerary includes an homage to these vast bronze statues of the smiling Great Leader and Dear Leader, the latter in his trademark parka. The first…

Kim Il-sung Square

Pyongyang’s central square is where North Korea’s massive military parades normally take place. The plaza is ringed by austere-looking buildings: most…

Pyongyang Metro

Visiting the impressive Pyongyang metro is definitely a highlight of the capital. The network, which is made up of two lines, has a simultaneous function…

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

Perhaps the most interesting museum in Pyongyang, this mouthful of an institution opened its current home in 2013 to mark the 60th anniversary of the end…

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North Korea and beyond

Everything You Need to Know About Traveling to North Korea

Are you thinking of traveling to North Korea but unsure of how to make it happen? Start by reading this North Korea travel guide.

I’ve visited North Korea, or officially, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) twice: once in 2015 ( Pyongyang  / DMZ + Kaesong / Mount Kumgang /  Wonsan ) and once in 2018 (Rason). However, I rarely brag about visiting North Korea because it isn’t a place I would encourage just anyone to visit. It’s not relaxing or enjoyable. It’s…mentally challenging, to say the least.

You should not travel to North Korea unless you’re willing to consider a perspective different from what mainstream western media tells you. Your experience of North Korea hinges on how you frame it, and it’s vital that you go with an open mind. In fact, I believe I had an easier time digesting and understanding my North Korea travel experiences  because of my East Asian heritage, but still I’m struggling to put them all in words.

People who learn that I’ve traveled to North Korea  always  ask the same questions about how they can do it too, so I finally decided to write this guide to answer all the questions (and bust all the myths). If there’s something you want to know that’s not mentioned here, please leave a comment and I’ll reply!

Can anyone travel to North Korea?

There’s a misconception that it’s almost impossible to visit North Korea when in fact, almost anyone can go to North Korea (except South Korean citizens). Even US citizens were previously able to go but following the high-profile case of Otto Warmbier, the US Department of State has for now  banned citizens from traveling to North Korea .

While almost anyone can visit North Korea for tourism, you do not get to go around North Korea freely. You must join a tour, and only travel agencies approved by the North Korean government can organize tours to North Korea. Many of these tours have itineraries covering the same state-designated destinations and attractions.

Throughout your visit, you will be accompanied by at least two North Korean guides from the state-owned tourism bureaus such as KITC (Korea International Travel Company). They are the only North Koreans you’ll interact with extensively for the entire length of your stay.

But you’re not allowed to take photos, right?

Photography is definitely allowed in North Korea, as you can see from this post and others on this site. There are indeed some restrictions: you’re not allowed to take photos of military buildings and vehicles, soldiers in uniform, buildings under construction, or monuments undergoing maintenance. You will be cautioned not to crop any photos of the Great Leader (Kim Il Sung) or Dear Leader (Kim Jong Il). If you try to take a photo when it’s prohibited, your guides will stop you.

The North Korean government is extremely conscious of its image, and it’s understandable if you think about it. After all, photos of North Korea are often used by western media to paint the country in a negative light. The guides I’ve met know all too well how their country is perceived, and that likely reinforces what they’ve learned: to have great pride in what they’ve been able to achieve despite a lack of resources.

Is it very expensive to visit North Korea?

I find that North Korea tour costs are similar to any group adventure tour with accommodation, transport, and meals included. Expect a 5-night tour to cost around 1,200-1,700 euro with return Beijing-Pyongyang flights (entry/exit by rail should be cheaper). This does not include drinking water or tips and gratuities.

When choosing from North Korea travel operators, it’s more important to check their reputation and see what unique itineraries they offer.

Which tour operators would you recommend?

As with other East Asian countries, mutual trust and relationships are deeply rooted in the culture and a trusted North Korea tour company/agent will have latitude to offer more special tours. Koryo Tours and Juche Travel both have a good track record and in-depth knowledge to help you plan your trip (I’m not affiliated with either company).

Your North Korea tour company should guide you through the logistics of your trip, handle visa processing for you, and inform you on all the latest rules and regulations. That brings us to the most important question:

Is it safe to travel to North Korea?

You’re always looked after by guides, food is clean and tasty, and you’re unlikely to become a victim of crime. So yes, it’s safe to travel to North Korea, as long as you follow the rules.

I know what you’re thinking: that the North Korean tourism rules are meant to restrict tourists’ freedom and paint a false picture of the country. Whether you agree with this or not, you need to respect the rules and local laws of any place you visit. Some North Korea tourism rules include:

• Camera lenses beyond a certain zoom level are not allowed.
• Your passport will be kept by your guides upon arrival and returned at departure.
• All devices (mobile phones, cameras, laptops) will be inspected upon entry and exit to/from North Korea. Make sure your phone does not contain any religious or politically sensitive content (e.g. remove Bible apps, existing photos, etc.)
• You must pay respects when visiting statues of North Korea’s leaders Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, or other national monuments.
• Be respectful to guides. Do not ask provocative questions or argue against their narrative.
• You are allowed to talk to locals, but they are very wary of foreigners and most do not speak English or other foreign languages.
• Do not bring any magazines or religious material into North Korea.
• Most North Korea tour companies will allow you to blog about your experience, but journalists are not allowed to visit as tourists or sell stories/images to news publications unless you receive special permission.

Not following the rules means you risk getting yourself, the tour company, and possibly even your North Korean guides in trouble. However, as long as you play by the rules, you’ll be able to glean quite a bit of knowledge beyond what you’re shown or told.

Isn’t it unethical to support the North Korean regime through our tourism?

Discussion about safety when traveling to North Korea inevitably lead to moral concerns about supporting the DPRK regime through tourism. Even if you disagree with how the country is governed, visiting in person is the best way to understand North Korea’s nuances and complexities. Think of it this way: your moral obligation, if any, is to learn as much as possible to make it worth the trip.

Reading up on a place before visiting is always a plus, but for travel to North Korea it’s absolutely essential. I’d recommend you go beyond US news articles and add the following 8 books to your reading list. Want more? Check out this extensive selection of books about North Korea .

What It’s Like to Go Shopping in Pyongyang

Certain “bestsellers” have been excluded from this list as they’re known to be overly dramatized or disrespect/risk the safety of ordinary people in North Korea. For news and analysis, NK News and 38 North are good places to start (but are by no means the only sources).

What will I get to see and experience in North Korea?

Lots of people sneer at North Korea tours, claiming that everything you’ll see is staged or even that all the people in the city are actors. While you’ll come across scenes that are more of performances, I can reassure you the people and buildings are real.

A typical first-time visit to North Korea will includes standard sights in Pyongyang, the DMZ, Kaesong, and some UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as the tombs of ancient Korean kings.

How much do things cost in North Korea?

While most North Korea tours include accommodation and three meals a day, you’re expected to buy your own bottled water, snacks, and any out-of-pocket expenses such as riding the Pyongyang tram. Make sure you bring enough extra cash for souvenirs and tips.

The official exchange rate when I visited was US$1 : 100 North Korean won, but if you get to shop at a Pyongyang department store  you’ll find a far more favorable exchange rate.

Staying connected in North Korea

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If you haven’t lived in the pre-Internet age, be prepared to feel extremely isolated in North Korea as most tourists will not have any connectivity to the rest of the world. Although data SIM cards are available, they’re prohibitively expensive . If you have to call home, you can make international calls from the lobby at hotels like Yanggakdo Hotel. When I visited in 2015, calls cost US$5/minute.

Another cool activity is to send home postcards that you’ve purchased at souvenir shops. North Korean postal services will mail out your postcards to any international address, with the exception of some countries (definitely not the US or South Korea). It can take weeks or months to get delivered, but it’ll be a great gift when your friends receive it.

What else would you like to know about visiting North Korea? 

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North Korea Landmarks – 11 Famous Places in North Korea

Table of Contents

About the Landmarks in North Korea

In this article, we will look at some of the most famous North Korea landmarks from the golden statues of the Kims to the Juche Tower, DMZ and more. I have visited North Korea twice, once in 2017 and again in 2018 and I have visited three of the largest cities; Sinuiju, Pyongyang and Kaesung.

Pyongyang is the capital of the DPRK, also known as North Korea . The city is home to 3 million people which makes it a rather small capital city by world standards. The Taedong River runs through the centre, and there are many famous North Korea landmarks throughout the capital.

The city was largely flattened during the Korean War and rebuilt in the utilitarian Stalinist style of the Soviet Union. To me the city resembles Tirana in Albania a lot more than say Moscow, however.

So, without further ado, here are 11 landmarks in North Korea that every visitor to the DPRK should see!

Top 11 North Korea Landmarks

1. kim il sung square.

One of the most famous North Korea landmarks is Kim Il Sung Square . You will likely recognize the square from news reports showing marching North Korean soldiers and displays of weaponry. It’s also where people gather on special occasions like New Years for large parties with a stage for live music (this was being set up ready for the New Year celebrations while I was there).

There is an English language bookshop not far from the square where you can buy books about North Korea. There is also an assortment of usual tourist tat (which naturally I availed myself of) including postcards, posters, pins, mugs and newspapers.

2. Mansudae Grand Monument

The Mansudae Grand Monument is home to the two large bronze statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il , the grandfather and father of current leader Kim Jong Un . Flanking the statues are monuments to soldiers who fought during the Korean War and are very similar to those you can find in any ex-soviet city. If you look to the east with your back to the statues you can see the hammer, sickle and calligraphy brush of the Monument to the Party Foundation in the distance.

Mansudae is a very important place for North Koreans and you will find wedding parties and others coming to lay wreaths (5 Euros/optional) and taking a bow (compulsory).

It is imperative to behave with respect while at the statues. Pay attention to your guides and do as they ask. When taking photos have your hands by your side and do not make any gestures. Ensure that no parts of the statues are cropped in the picture. No running, joking, mimicking or any other behavior that would be deemed disrespectful. Cover up any logos you might have on t-shirts and no ripped jeans.

3. Juche Tower (One of the Most Impressive North Korea Landmarks)

Another of the North Korea landmarks is the 170 metre (560ft) Juche Tower . The tower sits on the east side of the Teadong River and dominates the skyline of Pyongyang. The tower is usually shrouded in a thin layer of mist. The Juche Tower is included in our list of 27 incredible Asia Landmarks !

Completed in 1982, it was constructed to commemorate Kim Il Sung’s 70 th birthday. You can take a somewhat rickety and old elevator up to the top for magnificent views of the city (5 Euros). If you are not good with heights or enclosed spaces, give it a miss, although I clenched my teeth and went up and was glad I did for the views and photo opportunities.

4. Pyongyang Metro

The capital has two metro lines and 17 stations that only cover the west side of the Taedong River. We were told the river was too deep to tunnel under, and an accident while trying to build this section cost up to 100 lives.

It is the deepest metro system in the world at 360 feet (110 metres) deep. The stations are grand affairs similar to the Moscow Metro and each station has its own theme. We rode a total of seven stops and got off to see three of the stations.

The network carries between 300,00 and 700,00 people each day and is used by North Koreans getting to work and school. A trip on the metro provides a nice insight into daily life in Pyongyang.

5. Arch of Triumph

The Arch of Triumph is another of North Korea’s famous landmarks and was built to honour resistance to the Japanese. Although it is modeled on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, it is 33 feet taller (10 meters) than its Parisian namesake. This makes it the second-largest triumphal arch in the world after the Monumento a la Revolucion in Mexico.

6. Grand People’s Study House

The Grand People’s Study House is a library and centre of learning open to all Pyongyang residents at university age and above. It is situated overlooking Kim Il Sung Square and features traditional Korean design. The views from the rooftop are some of the best in the city (no photos directly south as there are sensitive government buildings nearby).

7. USS Pueblo & Military Museum

Another of North Korea’s landmarks is the USS Pueblo. The Pueblo was an American spy ship caught in North Korean waters on 23 rd January 1968. The vessel disguised itself as an environmental research ship, but was actually part of the US Navy Intelligence.

One American was killed during the capture and the other 83 servicemen aboard were captured and taken prisoner. The 83 prisoners were released after 11 months of negotiations but endured torture and mock executions during their time in captivity.  The Pueblo is the only US Naval ship that is still being held captive and is now a tourist attraction.

If the propaganda on the streets is not enough, then a visit to the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum will surely overload you. The museum was updated in 2014 and now resembles a grand hotel with ornate staircases and crystal chandeliers. There are some interesting exhibits including a 360-degree diorama of the battle of Taejon. The exhibit includes a revolving floor and illuminations of gunfire, smoke and bombs.

One of the highlights of this tour is being led by a North Korean army Captain (the only soldier I’ve ever seen wearing high heels). It might be possible to ask for a photo (one of the only times photography of army personnel is not strictly prohibited).

8. Monument to the Party Foundation

One of the defining symbols of North Korea and the Juche ideology is the combined hammer, sickle and calligraphy brush. This North Korea landmark represents the workers, farmers and intellectuals.

You will see the yellow symbol on a red background on posters along the streets and atop buildings.  This concrete manifestation dominates central Pyongyang and can be seen from many places in the city. The monument is 50 metres (164ft) tall. This represents the 50 years from the foundation of the Workers’ Party of Korea.

9. Arch of Reunification

The Monument to the Three-Point Charter to Reunification is a 180-foot (55 metre) high sculpture spanning the reunification Highway. The road leads south from Pyongyang down to Kaesung and the border with South Korea.

10. Ryugyong Hotel

The vast triangular Ryugyong Hotel is another of the North Korea landmarks that dominates the Pyongyang skyline. At 105 stories (1,082 feet/330 metres) tall it is an impressive spectacle, but scratch the neon surface and you will find a hotel that has been under construction since 1987 and likely will never see a single guest.

11. The DMZ (Demilitarized Zone)

The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is the strip of land separating North and South Korea. Sometimes known as the “38th Parallel”, this heavily fortified area is famous for the blue truce huts at Panmunjom where talks between the north and the south take place.

It is possible to visit the DMZ from both North and South Korea on a tour from either Pyongyang in the north or Seoul in the south.

How to Visit North Korea

The only way to visit North Korea, unless you are a diplomat or visiting student, is to take a pre-arranged tour. I went with Young Pioneer Tours who are specialists in North Korean travel and have been taking groups to the DPRK for many years.

Your tour operator will arrange a VISA for you (50 Euros with YPT) and this can be done easily by just sending a scan of your passport. The North Korean VISA is one of the easiest to obtain as the North Koreans are very keen for tourists to visit. At this point in time American and South Korean citizens are unable to visit the DPRK.

How to see the North Korea Landmarks

The only way to see these places in North Korea is to take a guided tour. There are many tours that take in these tourist attractions, and different ways of entering the country.

There are two ways to reach the capital; train from Dandong in China or a flight from Beijing with Air Koryo. I would thoroughly recommend the train as you will get a chance to see a lot of North Korean countryside. You will also witness people going about their daily life in the fields and small villages the train passes by.

To book a tour to North Korea, contact Young Pioneer Tours who have a vast range of tours to the DPRK. Quote Code: TRIPYPT20 to get a FREE North Korea t-shirt from YPT!

You might find these articles interesting:

About the author: Steve Rohan is a writer from Essex, England. He has traveled to over 60 countries, lived in Armenia, China and Hong Kong, and is now living the digital nomad life on the road.

Steve prefers “slow travel” and has covered much of the world by train, bus and boat. He has been interviewed multiple times by the BBC and recently featured in the documentary Scariest Places in the World . See the About page for more info.

Where I am now: Yerevan, Armenia 🇦🇲

4 thoughts on “ North Korea Landmarks – 11 Famous Places in North Korea ”

this was a good website to see landmarks

has it been the same construction company working on Ryugyong Hotel this whole time or have there been multiple pulled together to try and speed up the time till completion

Hi Aaron, to the best of my knowledge no one has been working on the hotel for years.

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North Korea Travel Guide

Thinking of travel to North Korea? This guide will give you an idea of what to expect and what to look out for.

Written by Michael Turtle

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle. A journalist for more than 20 years, he's been travelling the world since 2011.

Michael Turtle is the founder of Time Travel Turtle and has been travelling full time for a decade.

Updated: February 2, 2023

North Korea Travel

Secretive. Isolationist. Dangerous. These are the words often used to describe North Korea, one of the world’s last truly communist countries. But what’s it like to travel to North Korea?

A lot of people don’t realise that you can actually travel to North Korea as a tourist. I guess the perception is that, because it’s a strange rogue nation, it wouldn’t be open to foreigners.

Well, guess what? You can go to North Korea. But it’s still going to be a very strange experience.

I’ve written a few stories about what it’s like to be a tourist in this fascinating country and what to expect from any North Korea travel. I’ve got links to all those articles at the end of this travel guide.

In this guide, I just want to focus on giving you some practical information in case you’re thinking about doing a North Korea trip yourself as a tourist.

The good news is that it’s not too difficult to arrange – but you do need to be prepared. You can’t just jump on a flight to Pyongyang and start exploring the Hermit Kingdom for yourself.

So here are my tips for your North Korea travel.

North Korea tours

The best (and only reasonable) way to travel into North Korea is with a tour company. Several thousand Western foreigners are allowed into the country this way each year.

There are several organisations that run North Korea tours – usually you would go in and out via China.

There are slight variations in price and length of the tours with different companies but, because the North Korean government has final say on the itineraries, they all go to generally the same places.

I would recommend Koryo Tours , which has been around the longest and is probably the most reputable company.

Other options which I have heard good things about include:

• Young Pioneer Tours
• Korea Konsult

Normally you will have a Western guide who will go with you from Beijing (or wherever your group meets). And then you’ll be joined by local North Korean guides when you arrive.

Your tour company will help you with the visa application process and all the paperwork you’ll need to do to confirm you have permission to enter the country.

What will I be allowed to do in North Korea?

You’ll be surprised at how much you are able to do – and how much you’re unable to do.

Your itinerary will be decided for you by the North Korean authorities and you’ll have two guides with you the whole time. If you would like to make any changes it would normally take about three days to get them approved, so speak up early.

Your guides will take you to see a lot of things – monuments, museums, transport systems, factories, parks, and artistic performances.

From the regime’s perspective, all the sights are supposed to be painting a positive picture of the country. But you will find yourself seeing a lot of the country as you’re driven between all these places and on the streets around them.

You won’t be able to wander off on your own, though. You’ll always have to be in the company of the guides and you’ll have to follow their instructions on what you can or can’t do.

You will be allowed to take photos, except of military personnel and from moving vehicles

You will be allowed to take your camera and your computer in with you. You are also now allowed to take your phone with you and use it as a camera (and whatever else). But you won’t be able to connect to a phone network to make/receive calls or use data.

As long as you are happy to follow the instructions, it will all be fine. I think that’s part of the experience.

For more information about what you can do, you can read this story about visiting North Korea .

Things to see in North Korea

Most of the main ‘sights’ of North Korea are in the capital, Pyongyang, and this is where the shorter trips will focus their time. The highlights of the capital are:

• The Kumsusan Memorial Palace: This is the mausoleum of the country’s founder, Kim Il Sung, and has a bizarrely-grand feel to everything about it inside.
• Juche Tower: The tower is about 170 metres high and has an elevator to the top. It gives a great view of all of Pyongyang.
• The Revolutionary Martyr’s Cemetery: The war memorial at the top of a hill for those who died fighting the Japanese.
• The Triumphal March : Intentionally-built to be three metres higher than the one in Paris, it is the world’s largest Arch de Triumphe. It will be hard to avoid seeing this as you drive around the city.
• The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum: This is interesting for the exhibitions but even moreso to understand how the propaganda system work in North Korea.

Getting outside Pyongyang will be slightly harder unless your tour is longer than a few days. You won’t have much control at all over which areas you visit. Here are some of the highlights and it would be worth seeing if they are included in any trip you’re considering.

• DMZ: You can visit the de-militarised zone from South Korea as well but there’s something fun about waving at the perplexed tourists from the North Korean side.
• International Friendship Exhibition: This is promoted as being a display of the presents given by world leaders to Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, although I’m convinced the bunker built into the mountain is actually a lair for when nuclear war breaks out. It will be a highlight of the trip because of the bizarre collection of gifts.
• Ryongmun Cave: A strange warren of caves lit up with different colours all along. It’s a popular spot for school groups to visit, it seems.
• West Sea Barrage: This is an eight kilometre dam built during the 1980s and is the industrial pride and joy of North Korea.

If you’re interested in some of the other things you might see on a tour, you can have a look at my photos from inside North Korea .

What about the locals in North Korea?

Visitors to North Korea will get limited interaction with locals. But it will be rare to find many who speak English, so unless you speak Korean you won’t be able to talk to them much.

Many of the locals will try to ignore you, because that’s clearly what they’ve been told to do. Children will often look at you in fear until you smile and wave, when they’ll smile and wave back even harder.

The guides you are with won’t stop you from talking and interacting with local people. But they will keep a watchful eye on things to make sure there is nothing suspicious going on.

You can read more about life in North Korea here.

The best attitude is to assume that, unless you speak Korean, you won’t get to have many conversations with locals. However, you will still feel like you get a bit of exposure to their lives.

Safety in North Korea

As long as you don’t go into North Korea with the clear intention to cause trouble, you will find things to be extremely safe.

You are always being looked after by two local North Korean guides and so you can’t really get into trouble with the authorities because the guides will stop you from doing anything that could land you in hot water.

One of the aims of the trips for foreigners is to send a positive message about the country. The regime essentially sees it as a big PR campaign – with you as part of the propaganda machine – and so they don’t want anything to go wrong.

If you do what you’re told, it will be one of the safest trips you ever take.

You can read more here about the propaganda in North Korea .

However, you have probably read some of the stories about tourists being detained in North Korea. These unfortunate situations are rare and usually occurred because the tourist did something they shouldn’t have.

I think it’s clear that their punishment vastly outweighed their ‘crime’ and they were obviously used as a form of hostage for political negotiations. But the advice from all the experts is still that, if you do nothing wrong, you have nothing to fear.

The Ariang Mass Games in Pyongyang

The Mass Games, the enormously epic 90 minute performance, has rightly been described as ‘The Greatest Show on Earth’.

It takes place several times a week during August and September in the May Day Stadium, the largest stadium in the world (holding 150,00 seated people).

The performance is a huge patriotic display of marchers, dancers, acrobats, musicians and more. About 100,000 people take part in it, including 20,000 children who hold up coloured cards to make the tableau backdrops.

If you’re thinking of a trip to North Korea, it would be worth finding out the latest information about dates for the Mass Games and try to coincide your travels with it.

You’ll have to pay extra for a ticket to the performance but it is worth it. I would recommend the first class ticket, which cost about 150 Euro.

You can read a bit more about my experience there and see some more of my photos from the Mass Games here .

Overall, a trip into North Korea will be an experience unlike any other you’ve had in the world of travel. It will open your eyes to a country with so few parallels to any you have lived in before.

You shouldn’t be worried or scared. But you do need to do some preparation in advance and behave accordingly when you’re there.

The trip will be safe and comfortable – but your opinions will be challenged. North Korea travel is not a holiday… it is a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

4 thoughts on “North Korea Travel Guide”

A great editorial. Travel to both Koreas has been a dream of mine, especially the DMZ. One thing I would like and maybe you can advise me on is a N. Korea lapel pin. I collect lapel pins from all over the world but have not been able to get this one. Thanks for the pics also! Jerry J., Las Vegas, NV.

Hi Jerry. Perhaps it would be worth doing a trip to North Korea just to collect the pin! I believe I was given one while I was there (although I’m not exactly sure where I’ve put it). Certainly if the collection is a passion of yours, you might be able to get a good selection over there. They are keen on them!

Sure, this may be a one-of-a-kind experience, but how do you reconcile that the 150 Euros spent on a ticket for the Arirang Games and who knows how much on a way to get into the country, you’re directly funding a horrifically repressive regime that holds twenty-five million people captive?

It’s a good question, Joyce, and not one that’s easy to answer. As a travel writer, this issue comes up often in regards to countries that have regimes or policies that seem ‘wrong’ compared to what is ‘normal’. In some cases, the injustice can be quite obvious and some people choose to boycott those countries. But most of the time there are lots of grey areas and if you started boycotting every country that had human rights issues you didn’t agree with, there would be almost no places to go (the death penalty in the US, incarceration of asylum seekers in Australia, etc).

In my case, I have made the decision not to boycott any countries, but to always report fairly and transparently what I see and how I feel about it. It’s not a perfect solution and the points you’ve raised are very valid, but I think seeing the world and understanding more about other cultures and politics ultimately outweighs the negatives.

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How to Visit North Korea

January 9, 2014 by Bino 15 Comments

I thought this post is a bit overdue, but better late than never!

To be honest, I was astonished when I received so many questions on how to visit North Korea after writing about the things to do in Pyongyang some months back. I certainly never expected there to be many people interested to visit this notorious place. When I was planning for the trip, many of my friends rejected me outright when I invited them. Are you crazy? – was the most usual response I got. But fortunately, two friends went with me in the end, so I didn’t have to experience the many “pleasures” of the DPRK by my lonesome!

Visiting North Korea is not as straightforward as visiting other countries. But let me clear up some myths here – it’s not an overly complicated process. Most of the arranging is actually done by the travel agency so one can just sit back and relax for the most part.

If you have intentions of visiting this mysterious country, here are some things to take note of.

Getting a Visa for North Korea

A visa is required for all nationalities except for Malaysians and Singaporeans. In this sense, North Korea has one of the most restrictive entry requirements in the world. Even the two nationalities that don’t need a visa to enter will not be permitted to enter unless they join a tour that is run by the state-owned tourism bureau.

To get the visa, prospective visitors need to go through an appointed travel agency running tours to North Korea. Even if you decide NOT to join a tour group, you will still need to go through one of these agencies. They will take care of booking plane and train tickets for you, verify your tour booking with the North Korean authorities and arrange your itinerary for the trip.

Most visitors obtain their visas in the form of a tourist card in Beijing. However, if you live in a country that has a North Korean embassy, you may obtain your visa there in the traditional way (i.e. a visa sticker stamped to your passport). Do note that for those issued with tourist cards, your passport will not be stamped when you enter / leave North Korea .

In my case, I opted to get a tourist card in Beijing even though there’s an embassy in Singapore, where I live. Nevertheless, the North Korean authorities still did a background check on me. I received a random call one evening where an embassy staff politely asked me my intentions of going to North Korea as well as the whereabouts of my friends who were joining me for the trip.

Requirements:

• Passport-sized photo (no more than 6 months old)
• Passport with minimum 6 months validity
• Application form (do note that the application form for tourist card differs from the one for visa)

Normally, the travel agency will apply for the visa or tourist card on your behalf. Once the North Korean authorities approve it, you will be contacted by the travel agency to make the trip down to the embassy to have the visa stamped in your passport. If you choose to obtain a tourist card, you will be provided details on picking it up in an agreed location in Beijing.

How to get there?

North Korea is one of the most isolated countries in the world. You definitely can’t visit the North from South Korea! Your best bet would be from China where there are direct flights from major cities such as Beijing and Shenyang. During August to September, there may be occasional charter flights that come direct from places like Singapore or Kuala Lumpur.

Alternatively, it’s also possible to visit North Korea by train from China.

While North Korea has its own currency (also called the Won), visitors won’t have to use it. During my visit, Euro was the preferred currency, although it was also possible to use US Dollar or Japanese Yen.

If you’re familiar with Korean food, then the food in North Korea will not surprise. It is precisely that, albeit you will notice there’s less meat and more vegetables used. North Korea is also one of the few countries where you won’t find western brands when it comes to food. No Coca-cola here, folks!

How Many Days Should You Spend in North Korea?

A standard tour running the major attractions lasts for around 9 to 10 days. In my case, I wasn’t so much keen on seeing the natural attractions. I was more keen on watching the mind-boggling Arirang Mass Games and experiencing the showcase capital, Pyongyang so 5 days was enough for me. More recently, there have been budget tours offered that lasts for as short as 3 days, inclusive of the Arirang Mass Games and a whirlwind city tour of Pyongyang.

When to Go?

I visited in August, the peak of summer (and the rainy season) which was the worst time to go weather-wise but I chose to go at this time for the Arirang Mass Games which are held only from August to September of most years.

What is There to See in North Korea?

A question that I get asked often. While your guide will make sure you visit a seemingly endless checklist of monuments, memorials and war museums, for me the real attraction in North Korea is getting to see a country living in a system unlike any other. North Korea won’t be able to boast an attraction as grand as Taj Mahal but for those looking for a unique travel experience, this country surely doesn’t disappoint.

But I did mention in my previous post that I thought North Korea had the most impressive attraction in the entire Korean Peninsula – the Arirang Mass Games . In fact, I count this as one of the most mind-boggling and grandest shows I’ve seen anywhere in the world. It easily beats what the folks over at Las Vegas conjur up year after year. It’s also reason enough to come to North Korea even during the humid and rainy summer season.

For more info on North Korea — do check out my entries on my most surreal North Korea trip

You may also like.

Let me know your thoughts by leaving a comment below. Alternatively, you can also email me at b i n o (at) iwandered.net. You can follow I Wander on Facebook , Telegram , or Instagram . Also, if you liked this article, please feel free to SHARE or RETWEET

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January 9, 2014 at 7:54 am

Is that Mr. Lim? Pareho tayo ng tour guide, LOL.

January 12, 2014 at 9:35 pm

This is so cool! I want to go to North Korea too but I think it will cost a LOT of money. How did you go about your budget for 5 days? And how much do you think I need if I want to stay for 1-2 weeks (since required din to always have a guide right?) I want to witness Arirang Mass Games! 😀

January 12, 2014 at 10:54 pm

Hi Mariane! You can check around the different travel agencies for their prices. Generally the lowest I’ve seen is about EUR 700 – 800 for a 5 day tour while a 10 day tour will cost upwards of EUR 1,300

January 12, 2014 at 11:53 pm

Interesting! I wish I could go backpacking in DPKR (eek, not possible). But seriously, North Korea is on my bucket list. I’ll go there someday when my travel fund is close to being enough.

March 9, 2014 at 6:27 am

Hi, I am from Singapore. Why did you opt to get a tourist card in Beijing when you know that you could easily get a visa from the North Korean embassy stationed in Singapore? What are the benefits of doing this way?

March 9, 2014 at 4:24 pm

Kris – I wanted to avoid North Korea stamps in my passport. Just in case other countries might refuse entry because of it

March 11, 2014 at 8:55 pm

Hmmm yes after what you mentioned above, I read some advice that leaving a North Korean stamp on my passport would have me refused entry by certain countries in the future. But some others say it will not affect in any way unless I have a stamp from Israel. If I choose to go to the DPRK embassy in Singapore, it would mean that the visa would be glued onto my passport and get stamped on entry? Or they will issue me a tourist visa separately from my passport?

March 12, 2014 at 10:25 pm

If you get the visa from the embassy in Singapore, it means you will get it glued in your passport and stamped upon entry

May 14, 2016 at 5:30 pm

Hi. What travel agency did you go to in arranging your trip to North Korea? Is there any in Singapore.? Thanks a lot

May 16, 2016 at 9:01 pm

Hi – the travel agency that arranged my journey is no longer operating sadly!

May 10, 2016 at 9:20 am

Hi, I am from Singapore. Which tour agency did you go with?

May 16, 2016 at 9:02 pm

Hi Phylis, unfortunately the travel agency that arranged my tour no longer operates.

February 3, 2018 at 7:15 pm

I’m a Canadian living in Dubai. I’m interested in a tour, possibly a ski vacation. Is it possible? How much lead time does one need for planning a trip to NK?

February 3, 2018 at 9:43 pm

Allow for around 3 months lead time to be safe.

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Best Places To Visit In North Korea (If You Make It There!)

Posted on Last updated: 22/11/2022

Let’s be honest. Most probably, it was your curiosity that compelled you to read about a country that is least associated with tourism. What is it like? Is it possible to travel there? Will Kim Jong Un want to meet you personally?

Well, the magic words to the tourist portal of this Korean peninsula are rules, obedience and tour guides. The hermit kingdom of North Korea has its rules. And if you want an experience that may otherwise put you in serious trouble, you will have to obey them to the dot.

You will only be allowed to visit with a tour guide — no solo travel will be allowed.

If you put in the effort and are willing to be disciplined, here are the 7 best places to visit in North Korea on your controlled tour.

Table of Contents

1. Pyongyang Metro

At the top of our list of the best places to visit in North Korea is the metro system at the heart of Pyongyang. Opened to the Korean public in 1971, the Pyongyang Metro is the world’s deepest subway system to date.

Opened to foreigners in 2014, the metro has managed to become a prime tourist attraction in the years that followed. Foreigners can take the train and stop at each substation to check the architecture that narrates the history — of its wars, victories and liberations.

This can well be your chance to mingle with the Korean public as the citizens crowd the trains day in and day out.

2. Mansudae Grand Monument

Also known as Mansu Hill Grand Monument , this iconic complex situated in the capital city of Pyongyang continues to be a prominent landmark among foreigners and locals alike.

The 22-metre-tall statues of President Kim Il Sung and General Kim Jong are the centre of this tourist attraction.

People can’t be seen gathering in the square unless to pay respect to the late leaders, with flowers and bows. It is surely on our list of the best places to visit in North Korea.

3. Triumphal Arch

Standing tall at a height of 60 metres, the Arch of Triumph was opened in Pyongyang to mark the 70th birthday of North Korea’s first leader — President Kim Il-sung.

It is just a bit taller and resembles the Triumphal Arch in Paris, making it the second tallest Triumphal Arch in the world.

If you are entering Pyongyang from the airport, your tour bus may make a stop on the way, giving you a chance to walk around this well-known structure that symbolizes the revolution of the Korean nation.

4. Koryo Museum, Kaesong

Depicting the culture and traditions of the Koryo dynasty through more than 1000 artefacts, the Koryo museum is the place to be for history buffs!

Spacious and surreal, this historical museum paints a picture of Korean history in mind as they get to walk around ancient trees and small hut houses.

Situated in the city of Kaesong, the Korean museum was once an academic centre in the 11th century AD.

5. Tower Of The Juche Idea

The tower of the Juche Idea in Pyongyang was built to honour the political ideology of self-reliance, the Juche philosophy.

Reaching the sky at 170m, the tower was flaunted to the public in 1982, commemorating President Kim Il-sung’s 70th birthday, rightly doing so by building it with 25,550 blocks of granite — the number of days the leader had surpassed at the time.

On top of the tower is a torch that lights up at night. Located along the banks of the famous Taedong River, the panoramic view of the city from the top is worth the five euros it will cost you for the trip.

At the foot of the tower is a statue of 30m in height, depicting the communist influence on the nation, and makes this destination deserve its place on our list of best places to visit in North Korea.

6. Munsu Water Park

Your travel to North Korea will revolve around Pyongyang for most of it —yes, the Munsu Water Park , the largest leisure park in the country was built in its capital city.

Opened in the latter part of the year 2013, the water park has a wax statue of President Kim Jong II, of which you are not allowed to take pictures.

Locals — both young and old, come in numbers to experience the host of activities it offers. With restaurants and cafes inside the gates, you can spend a fulfilling day on your visit.

7. Paektu Mountain

Saving the best for the last, Mount Paektu is a landscape of oozing serenity.

It is the tallest mountain on the Korean peninsula and offers ecstatic views of lakes surrounded by untouched forests and the cleanest of air. Mount Paektusan was also the ground on which the famous guerrilla war against Japanese rule took place.

You will not be able to access the mountain if you visit from May to September, and you can only reach the city by plane from Pyongyang.

An extinguished volcano with a predominantly cold climate, this landmark is one of the best places to visit in North Korea.

Recommended reading: Places to include in your South Korea Itinerary | Places to visit in Japan

How To Travel to North Korea as a Tourist

Note: Since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, North Korea’s borders have been completely closed to foreigners. As of right now, it is not possible to go to North Korea.

Quite a few of my friends were shocked to discover I was travelling to North Korea. “I didn’t even know you could go to North Korea, let alone join a tour group!” they exclaimed.

Yup, against common belief, it is possible to travel to North Korea. And it’s actually surprisingly easy.

Almost anyone can visit North Korea, with the exception of citizens of South Korea and the United States. It was only recently (September 2019) that the US government banned its citizens from travelling to North Korea, and this may be reversed in time now that Donald Trump is out of office.

In this blog post, I’ll walk you through how to travel to North Korea as a tourist, explaining everything you need to know about tours, visas and travelling into the country itself.

How To Travel To North Korea: The Logistics

There are very few places from where you can enter North Korea — you can’t simply book a flight from London to Pyongyang! You will most likely need to go through China, which shares a border with North Korea. You’ll also need to book onto a government-run tour group, as you cannot visit North Korea independently.

With this in mind, there are three things you’ll need to do in order to visit North Korea as a tourist:

• Book onto a tour
• Arrange a Chinese visa
• Organise transport to China

1) Book Onto A Tour

To visit North Korea, you must book onto a tour group. You cannot visit North Korea independently as the country’s government simply doesn’t allow this. Any visit to North Korea will be an all-inclusive tour with an organized itinerary — there is no getting around this.

Your tour group is ultimately controlled by the Government via the Korean International Travel Company. This means your itinerary is set in stone, with no room for free exploration or solo adventuring. You will be escorted at all times by two guides and a driver.

There are a few tour operators who run trips in North Korea, and these are Lupine Travel , Young Pioneers and Koryo Group . I personally went with Lupine Travel, although it seems as though the three companies are all fairly similar.

There is quite a well-pathed tourist route which most if not all, tourists are taken on. This goes to all the main  attractions in Pyongyang , to the Demilitarised Zone on the border of South Korea and to a mountainous region in the north.

Once you choose the tour you want to go on and have booked it, the tour operator will take care of a lot of the logistics for you, including your return transport into North Korea from China, your North Korean visa and your accommodation, food and itinerary once in North Korea.

The tour company probably will not take care of your return transport to China from your home country, or your Chinese visa (although they will help you with this).

Once you’re booked onto a tour, the company will liaise with you prior to your trip, ensuring they have everything they need from you and that you have everything ready, as well.

2) Get Your Chinese Visa

My tour with Lupine Travel started and ended in Beijing. This meant I required a Dual Entry Chinese Visa, as I would technically be entering China twice: once via a flight from London, and then again when I left North Korea.

The Chinese visa can be a little tricky. I’ve applied for and received 2 Chinese visas in the last decade, and they were a bit of a hassle on both occasions. There are a lot of forms to fill out and it can get complicated. Be sure to read through the documents carefully and answer everything truthfully.

For your Chinese visa, you will need:

• Your passport: with remaining validity of at least 6 months and with blank visa pages.
• Visa Application Form: truthfully completed and type-written.
• A photo: taken within the last six months; full face against a light background; size: 48mm x 33mm; bare-headed unless for religious reasons.

You can visit a Chinese embassy or Chinese Visa Application Centre to hand in your documents, or you can mail it. It typically takes four working days to process your application, but it’s recommended that you apply about 2 months before, as there can be issues. They rejected my photo on one occasion and I had to resubmit it, for example.

Once approved and processed, you can go and collect your passport and visa. The fee for a Chinese visa is £150 / $140.

Visit the Chinese Visa Application Service Center to apply for your visa.

The tour company you booked with will handle your North Korean tourist visa for you. All you’ll need to do is fill in a few simple forms and send over a scanned copy of your passport. Your guide will then give you your North Korean visa once you meet up with your tour group.

3) Book Your Transport To China

As your tour to North Korea likely starts in China, you’ll need to book flights or some other form of transport to China, as this is probably not included in your tour package. Check which city your tour’s meeting place is — mine met at the train station in Beijing, but some meet in the city of Dandong, which is on the border of China and North Korea.

Flights from Europe start from about £500. You can search for cheap flights on Skyscanner.

Travelling into North Korea from China

As mentioned above, your tour company will take care of the logistics of your transport into and out of North Korea from China. You’ll most likely meet your tour group in Beijing or Dandong, and then travel with them from there into North Korea, either by train or plane. It depends on the tour company you go with as to whether you’ll go by train or plane. You will be escorted at all times on your transit into and out of North Korea.

The sleeper train departs Beijing in the late afternoon and goes through Northeast China overnight, before reaching the border at around midday.

Once at the border, North Korean soldiers will come onboard to do visa, passport and luggage checks. I found the experience quite intimidating; they poked around in my backpack and asked me to explain what some things were. I remember a fellow traveller on my tour awkwardly explaining what his beard trimmer was used for.

You will also be given forms asking you to declare electronic devices that you’re bringing into the country. I’d advise that you don’t bring any devices with you if possible — you won’t be able to use the internet or make phone calls anyway, and you may be asked to open it up and show the soldiers your files.

Be certain that you do not have religious material, pornography, or memes/other insulting material about North Korea on your device.

It can take a few hours to cross the North Korean entry customs. Once through, you’ll spend about 5 hours travelling through the scenic North Korean countryside before arriving in Pyongyang .

Another way to enter North Korea from China is to take an aeroplane, which is much quicker than the train but certainly less scenic. Air Koryo runs three to four flights from Beijing to Pyongyang each week, as well as weekly flights from Shanghai, Shenyang and Dandong.

I took the train myself, so I don’t have first-hand insight into what the plane is like. But apparently, you’re welcomed on board with songs about socialism and Kim Jong-un, as well as magazines that showcase the ‘fatherly leader’ and the heinous war crimes of Japan and the US.

Tourism in North Korea: Frequently asked questions

There are lots of unique rules and regulations around travelling to North Korea as a foreigner, so let’s break these down.

How Much Does It Cost To Visit North Korea?

The North Korean tour companies I mentioned above organise all-inclusive packages. This means all of your meals, transport within the country and hotel will be included in the price. Tour prices range massively — between about £400 and £3500 depending on the length of your tour and the company you choose to go with.

• Lupine Travel tours start at £569 ($740)
• Young Pioneers tours start at £444 ($578)
• Koryo Group tours start at £448 ($583)

You should also bear in mind the cost of getting to North Korea. My  flight from London to Beijing  (the starting point of the tour) was about £500.

Is It Safe To Visit North Korea?

The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) advises against all but essential travel to North Korea. They note that “the security situation in North Korea can change with little notice and with no advance warning of possible actions by the North Korean authorities.” However, the FCO also advises the same for many parts of Turkey and Egypt, which are still frequently visited by tourists.

Tensions between North Korea and the United States have calmed and North Korea announced a halt to its missile testing in April 2018. It is now arguably much safer to visit the country than when  I visited in August 2017 .

As long as you follow all the rules outlined to you before you enter North Korea, travel is ‘deemed safe’ in that you are never alone and are not going to be the target of petty crimes such as theft.

While there is definitely some risk in visiting North Korea, if you follow the rules and remain respectful, there should be no issues. Terrorism and crimes towards tourists are highly unlikely and detainment of tourists is rare!

What Are The Rules For Tourists In North Korea?

• Your every movement is watched and monitored and,  under no circumstance , can you wander off on your own. Doing so will result in serious consequences for both you and your tour guide.
• The country dislikes the term North Korea and prefers to be called the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, or DPRK for short.
• Do not speak negatively about the country or the leaders. Disrespecting the country is viewed as a major offence and has caused problems for tourists in the past.
• You cannot take photos of everything. You’re allowed to take photos of tourist attractions etc, but it is forbidden to photograph the military, labourers or construction sites, among other things.
• You must ensure that any photos of statues of the leaders must capture their whole body — no close-ups or chopping off their feet from the frame.
• Your belongings will be thoroughly searched at the border. It is forbidden to bring religious material, porn or literature or film about North Korea into the country. Please, for heaven’s sake, do not try to bring a copy of  The Interview  into North Korea. Confiscated possessions may not be returned at the border.
• Practising religion is not allowed. North Korea is an atheist country and practising religion there is highly restricted. Praying or showing off a bible is a great way to get detained.
• You cannot speak with random citizens during your time in North Korea, as doing so may be considered espionage.

Will Visiting North Korea Affect Whether Other Countries Grant Me Entry?

Not at all! There are no restrictions on entering any country due to previous entry into North Korea — including South Korea and the United States. In fact, it’s unlikely that border controls will even know you’ve been to North Korea because your visa is issued on a separate piece of paper and your passport is not stamped.

My Experience Visiting North Korea

I found my time in North Korea to actually feel a lot more relaxed than I anticipated. When I first arrived, I was a little nervous and tried not to look at anybody for too long or seem disrespectful in any way.

However, by the end of my second day in North Korea, I felt more relaxed and realised that I just had to follow the rules. I stuck with my tour group, asked permission to take photos, didn’t question any “facts” the tour guides stated about their country, and didn’t try to interact with random locals. In doing this, all was well.

The country was extremely different to how I imagined it and threw a lot of my preconceptions out the window.

I was surprised, for example, to find that Pyongyang was a very picturesque and modern city. I think I had expected it to look kind of grey and old. I was also surprised to see that the countryside was absolutely beautiful, with rolling hills and vivid green colours.

Of course, I also saw plenty of things that upset, angered or confused me a little, such as the phenomenal amount of blatant propaganda and the fact that a guy on my tour got told off for buying ice cream from a nearby stall.

READ MORE:  My North Korea Travel Experience – What’s It Really Like?

What Do You Get To See In North Korea?

The key thing to bear in mind is that you won’t get to see the  real  North Korea. You’ll be ferried from place to place — mostly within Pyongyang — with zero opportunity for independent exploration. You’ll only see what they allow you to see, in what I believe is a very tightly controlled tourist route.

Monuments And Squares

A trip to North Korea will most definitely involve visiting the sites  they want you to see , such as Kim Il Sung Square, the Founding Party Monument, the captured US spy ship USS Pueblo, Kim Il Sung’s native home and many more. These are, what I would call, showpieces of the regime.

The Pyongyang Metro

At 110 metres underground, the Pyongyang metro is the deepest metro station in the world. Covered in propaganda, images of the Kim family, and with station names such as ‘Comrade’, ‘Glory’ and ‘Reunification’, North Korea’s metro is really quite an experience.

While it was definitely the most interesting metro journey I’ve ever been on, the whole scenario was somehow quite strange. You can only ride 5 of the 16 stops — perhaps there’s something secret beyond stop 5.

The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a strip of land running along the Korean Peninsula. It is used as a buffer zone between North and South Korea, and is 160 miles long and 2.5 miles wide.

While tourists can easily visit the DMZ in South Korea, this is a chance to see it from the other side and, of course, hear the story from North Korea’s perspective.

The Kaeson Funfair

The Kaeson Funfair was the only place we were allowed to wander around somewhat freely. Our guides let us mingle with the locals a little and stood guard along the pathways leading to the entry and exit points.

We were, however, told that we should skip all the queues and go straight onto any ride we wanted, because “we’re Western.” This annoyed me, as I didn’t feel that this presented a good view of us as Westerners to the citizens of North Korea. Perhaps they didn’t mind, but as a Brit, orderly queues are an essential part of my culture!

Is It Ethical To Visit North Korea?

This is the most important question you should ask yourself before visiting North Korea: is it ethical?

There is a view that visiting North Korea is potentially helping to  fund the regime . I.e. that you’re helping to fund horrific human rights atrocities and nuclear programmes. However, I believe that the money North Korea receives from tourism is very small. With only 10,000 tourists a year, most of which are from China, how much can they  really  be making from this? It’s not like tourism in North Korea is a booming industry.

I also strongly believe that completely stripping a country of exposure to other cultures and attitudes is detrimental. Contact with the outside world helps to improve the citizens’ views of outsiders, which is a good thing since they’ve held a very bad view of the West for decades. Peace and progression within North Korea are certainly never going to occur if its citizens aren’t exposed to anything other than what they already know.

It’s certainly not a black-and-white answer and is something that you should consider carefully.

READ MORE:  Is It Ethical To Visit North Korea?

About The Author

Lauren Pears is a freelance travel writer and blogger based in London. She writes about active adventure travel, aiming to encourage and inspire travellers to make the most of the great outdoors.

Thank you for reading! If you found this post useful, I’d be grateful if you would consider using the affiliate links below when planning your travels. I’ll make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This will help me to keep this blog running. Thanks for your support – Lauren. Hotels –  Booking.com Hostels –  Hostelworld Cheap flights –  Skyscanner Travel insurance –  World Nomads Outdoor gear –  Decathlon  /  GO Outdoors Cycling gear –  Chain Reaction Cycles Alternatively, you could buy me a coffee to say thanks!

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Thanks a lot for your explanation Lauren this country is my dream to visit , however, I am terrified and nervous. and how I control myself.

I got curious about visiting North Korea since I saw a pic of someone else’s tour there. I didn’t even know it was possible to visit! But then my bubble burst since finding out that it has stopped since covid 🙁 anyways, thanks for writing this, it’s done plenty to satiate my curiosity for now haha

Thanks for reading Monica! Tours will likely open up again at some point in the future 🙂

very good and very detailed article.

Thanks John!

Very informative article on a unique topic, so much appreciated 🙂 I agree with the final message that there is a reciprocal value in connecting with people and cultures all around the world.

Glad you found it informative Lucas!

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7 best things to do in North Korea

Highlights of taking a tour in north korea.

North Korea is a very under-visited country – so much so that many people are not even aware that you can actually visit. Well, we’re here to tell you that you can – and, as experts on tours to North Korea, we’ve got a pretty good idea of what you should see and do when you’re there!

Here’s our rundown on the 7 best things to do in North Korea.

1. The many, many sights of Pyongyang

We could write an article on Pyongyang landmarks alone. The Mansudae Grand Monument; the Grand People’s Study House; Kim Il Sung Square; the Pyongyang Metro; the Arch of Triumph; May Day Stadium ; the Foreign Language Bookstore & the wealth of fantastic restaurants. You won’t be surprised to hear that all tours to North Korea will of course include Pyongyang!

2. Mount Myohyang and the International Friendship Exhibition

A trip worth it just for the stunning mountain scenery of Mount Myohyang. The region also boasts the singular International Friendship Exhibition, wherein you’ll find a cornucopia of gifts offered to the two elder Kims during their tenures as leaders of North Korea.

3. Mount Kumgang

Some of the DPRK’s most spectacular natural scenery can be found at this wondrous mountain in the east of the country. The region boasts the breath-taking Kuryong Falls – best visited in the autumn to make the most of its psychedelic and variegated treescape.

Think ‘North Korea’ and you’re probably not thinking of a happening beach scene. That’s where you’d be wrong! The east-coast resort of Wonsan boasts beautiful beaches, delectable seafood and a whole host of locals hanging out and soaking up the sun. Essential for a summertime trip to the country!

Read our Wonsan in the Summer blog for more!

5. The Rason SEZ

North Korea’s sole special economic zone – Rason is similar to Hong Kong and China (it’s an imperfect analogy, but for our purposes it’ll do). Rason is the only place where ‘capitalism’ is allowed in North Korea. Here you’ll be able to open a bank account, spend North Korean won in the local markets, and even gamble in a casino!

No visit to North Korea would be complete without getting the North’s perspective on the world’s most tense border. Luckily, Panmunjom (the border village) is only around three hours from Pyongyang, and is absolutely worth the trip! After your guided tour – wherein your guide will be a genuine KPA soldier – you’ll be able to get a photo with your guide (the only place in the country you can get a picture with a soldier!).

A traditional North Korean city that is a common stopping-off point for tourists on their way to the DMZ, in Sariwon you’ll be able to hike to the top of a hill overlooking folklore street, dress up in traditional Korean clothes, try the unique fermented rice drink of makgeolli, and eat the Korean delicacies of ginseng-stuffed chicken and dog soup!

This, of course, is hardly an exhaustive list of all the things you can do in North Korea. See this fascinating country for yourself, start planning your tour with us today!

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10 Places to Visit in North Korea

Travelling around the globe has never resulted in disappointment for me. I always end up eager to travel even more. I guess the more you travel around the world the better you get to appreciate the diversity in culture, traditions and nature.

Simply put, North Korea  is just amazing. A visit to this mysterious country is way more remarkable than one would imagine it would be. Many people tend to give this Asiatic country a wide berth and they just don’t know what they are missing!

In this post, I have highlighted just 10 great places you should visit in North Korea  and they are listed in no particular order.

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1. The Pyongyang Metro

Pyongyang is the capital city of North Korea and the biggest city in the country. When you get to this city, the first thing that will strike you is the Pyongyang Metro . This incredulous transport network that consists two lines is all underground. Apparently, the underground grid is not only designed for transportation purposes but it is also a nuclear bunker – yes, that’s right, a bomb shelter! The underground stations have an eerie feeling and the clearly visible blast doors give one the feeling of being in a futuristic sci-fi movie.

2. The Juche Tower

Just off the Juche Tower Street in Pyongyang stands this tall magnificent monument. The imposing tower is a granite symbol representing the political ideologies that were introduced by Kim II-Sung. At the tower, you will often find other tourists taking in the imposing power of the monument. You can take an elevator to the top of the tower from which you will be able to see a great deal of Pyongyang from a vantage point. This is an ideal place to take beautiful photo shots of the capital city. Any visitor to North Korea should visit this iconic symbol and at least take a photo as a true testament of visiting North Korea.

3. Mangyongdae

Just 8km from the great Pyongyang city is Mangyongdae. This is a tranquil neighbourhood that is set on a hill within the Mangyongdae-guyok neighbourhood. This region is famous and very important for North Koreans. This is where Kim II-Sung – founding president of North Korea – was born. In Mangyongdae visitors are able to enjoy several top attractions including the Mangyongdae Funfair, the Children’s palace and the Mangyondae Revolutionary Museum

4. The Mangyongdae funfair

This is a beautiful oasis at the foot of the Song Hill that is a popular place for the city dwellers to visit and unwind. Here you can experience a terrifying roller coaster ride on a harmless-looking North Korean roller coaster fittingly named the Mad Mouse.

5. T he Mangyongdae Children’s Palace

While at Mangyongdae do not forget to venture into the Children’s palace. This is a hub for all kinds of extracurricular activities performed by the children and youth of North Korea. You are bound to be entertained by youth skilled in all kinds of art from gymnasts, musicians, martial arts experts, and other assorted fields. In the main auditorium, you can enjoy a breathtaking performance from well-choreographed regimented youth.

6. The Mangyongdae Revolutionary Museum

Finally within Mangyongdae, one should make a point to tour the Mangyongdae Revolutionary Museum. This is an important establishment for the people of North Korea as it commemorates the childhood of the great leader Kim II-Sung. A major theme for the museum is highlighting the fact that the iconic leader and all his family members were patriotic revolutionaries who came from very humble beginnings.

7. Rungrado 1st of May Day Stadium

The first time one hears this name one might think that this is a special national day or something; it is difficult to expect this to be the name of a stadium, and not just your everyday stadium, a colossal stadium that currently ranks as the largest stadium in the world! This massive structure, also within Pyongyang, has a capacity of 114,000 people and it sits on a substantial 20.7 hectares. The stadium is used for all kinds of events including football matches however, the highlight event hosted in this mammoth stadium is the Arirang Festival. The Arirang Festival is a world-renowned event that features the most spectacular grand mass gymnastics and artistic performances.

8. T he Paektu Mountain and the Changbai Range

At the border of North Korea and China, there are awesome sights for anyone who appreciates scenic beauty and natural land formations. Here you can take in the lofty Paektu Mountain that is the highest mountain in the Changbai Range. This active volcanic mountain boasts a height of 9,003 ft. At the top of this awe-inspiring mountain is a large crater lake, the Paekdusan Lake. The lake is referred to as the mountain lake by the Korean people. The lake has significant mythical importance for the North Koreans and it is even considering as the country’s spiritual home.  From the Paektu Mountain flows a natural spring called the Baekdu Spa. Other places of interest around the ranges include hot water springs, waterfalls, and cairns.

9. Myohyang – San

The Myohyang- San is a creepy but fascinating place to visit while in North Korea. There are all kinds of mystic shapes and strange fragrances around the mountain. The mountain is regarded as a sacred ground as it is said to be the home of King Tahun who is the ancestor of all Korean people. Apart from the mystic allure of the mountain, here you can enjoy hiking and visiting attraction sites such as the Pohyon temple, the Kumgang hermitage, the Ryongmun cavern, and the Sangwon hermitage.  At Myongyang you can also visit the International Friendship Exhibition which is popular as the largest treasure house that exhibits presents received by past North Korean leaders.

10. The Okryugwan Restaurant

Finally, like many other top global tourist destinations, North Korea is one place you should visit if only to sample their tasty delicacies. The Okryugwan Restaurant is just the right place where you can get all kinds of North Korean dishes. The restaurant is devoting towards providing its patrons with excellent traditional foods.  Once you get into the Okryugwan restaurant, you will be promptly and courteously received by polka dot clad waitresses flashing shy smiles.  The restaurant’s menu boasts all kinds of expertly cooked Korean cuisines. A cold noodles tray – known as Naung-myon, is one of the popular dishes served. The dish consists of rice noodles topped with chicken slices, a boiled egg, cucumber, red chillies, mustard and vinegar.  Other dishes include kimchi – a dish made of veggies alongside seasonings, tofu, seafood, and many kinds of meat.

What are the other places worth a visit in North Korea?

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North Korea Travel Guide – The Truth About Visiting the DPRK

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to handpicked partners, including tours, gear and booking sites. If you click through or buy something via one of them, I may receive a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you and allows this site to keep running.

This guide to travel in North Korea talks about tourism in this very restricted country and what it is really like to visit the DPRK. 

Travelling to North Korea for seven days was hard. It’s propaganda via the medium of travel. I was overwhelmed, confused, upset, surprised, and returned with more questions than I had before I went.

My perceptions were certainly challenged while visiting the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK). Living in the western world means I have always been exposed to a one-sided and exaggerated view of what goes on there. A biased view that never mentions anything positive and masks any forms of progress that might just pave the way for a better future, even if it evolves slowly from an extreme belief system.

At the same time, any showcased achievements you see when there entirely mask the atrocities that we know about but are obviously not mentioned. 

North Korea is a country held high as the ultimate war trophy, whose unpardonable extreme ideological policies are mocked alongside the suffering of its people, rather than put into context and explained. Yet interaction with North Koreans, however limited, paves a way for understanding. The more we learn, the less inclined we are to make assumptions. Travelling can help provide that context. 

North Korea Travel Guide – The Reality of a Visit to the Hermit Kingdom.

Can Anyone Travel to North Korea?

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You can’t travel to North Korea unless you are in a guided tour group. Tourism in North Korea is very restricted and you almost feel as though you live on the tour bus as you can’t wander around freely. At all times, you have two guides who chaperone you every step of the way.

It’s a completely different way of travelling, and as held back as you feel, the local people simply are not used to western faces and so this form of control allows them a slow introduction. When you visit North Korea, it is not a holiday.

South Koreans are not permitted entry to North Korea.

North Korea travel is all about spending most of your time on the bus.

Following the death of American tourist, Otto Warmbier after he was arrested and detained in North Korea, US Secretary of State Rex Tillerson authorised his department to block Americans from traveling to the country, which already advised against travel to North Korea.

The ban came into effect on 1st September 2017, leading some tour companies, such as Young Pioneers no longer taking American tourists into the country (effective as of June 2017). Journalists and humanitarian workers are allowed to apply for exemptions under the ban.

Choosing a North Korea tour isn’t too difficult since there are not an abundance of companies offering travel experiences there. I went with Koryo Tours in 2012, given their great reputation and the fact they opened up the concept of tourism there first.

Not only is it very expensive to go to North Korea, but I wanted my trip to be expertly organised. With the tour starting and ending in Beijing , and all your visa requirements taken care of, the whole process was hassle-free.

The night before I remember sitting with a guy in my Beijing hostel, who was also going, and feeling overwhelmed. “We are going to North Korea! I can’t believe it!” which was quickly followed by “I’m scared”. Really scared of the million rules and regulations we had to adhere to, scared of what we might see, doing something wrong and being in trouble. And scared of what I would end up feeling.

In the departure lounge, nervousness and excitement were expressed through a mutual exchange of our knowledge and opinions. It’s better to get everything out of your system before you are exposed to exaggeration, propaganda, and overshadowed facts where you have to keep a straight face. You will only be shown what they want you to see.

North Korea Koryo tour group.

No – the visa is simply printed out and kept together in one big file for the entire group which includes individual images of everyone on the tour (a page that is also stuck on the bus window for reference).

The tourist visa card to North Korea.

After signing up for a tour and when your visa and permission for entry to North Korea is granted, you will fly from Beijing to Pyongyang on Air Koryo – a state-run airline. Air Koryo has consistently bad ratings, but flights to North Korea are the only means to enter.

The majority of organised tours leave Pyongyang via train, back to China (specifically Beijing), upon which North Korean guards will enter the train before its entry into China to check your camera and make sure you are not taking any offending material outside of North Korea. Other tours may also fly back to China via Air Koryo.

Boarding the Pyongyang to Beijing train.

As long as you follow all the rules outlined to you before you enter North Korea, travel is ‘deemed safe’ in the respect that you are never alone, never allowed to travel at your own will or allowed to travel outside of the designated areas where North Korean guides chaperone you at all times. This means it is highly unlikely that you will be affected by any serious crime or be the victim of it, nor witness any major situation in the country at the time due to the controlled nature of the visit.

North Korea isn’t a communist dictatorship where people and visitors have relative freedom, like Cuba . Every DPRK tour factors in a full briefing, before departure, on every applicable rule you must follow. These are often reiterated on the trip itself. There is no excuse for breaking the rules which are very clearly laid out.

There is nothing brag-worthy about travelling in North Korea; everyone is effectively at risk travelling there.

It is also wise to keep up to date with the latest news agenda, alongside political tensions in the area and those between North Korea and your country of citizenship that may affect your entry to the country as well as any pending bans or rule changes.

You will attend a meeting in Beijing at the offices of your designated tour company before the start of the tour (normally 24-48 before), which outlines the rules you must adhere to when travelling in North Korea. These include:

• The types of camera and lens size permitted for use in the country.
• How your Passport will be taken from you when you enter North Korea, for the duration of the tour (and usually kept by your tour group leader) and returned to you upon arrival back into China. The reason for this is stated as being “for security reasons”. At the time I travelled, my mobile phone was also confiscated.
• How to take pictures of the Kim statues , which cannot be captured close up or cropped. They must be captured in their entirety.

Bronze statues of the Kims in North Korea.

• The kinds of pictures you are NOT allowed to take. Pictures of any form of construction, scenes that denote poverty and images of the military are not permitted. When in doubt about the nature of what can and can’t be photographed, ask first.
• How you will be expected to honour the leader.  When visiting the statues of Kim Il Sung your group will be expected to bow and lay flowers, just as the North Koreans do. You are also obliged to pay respect when visiting all monuments of national importance.
• The importance that any kind of independent travel in North Korea is in no way allowed, anywhere or at any point of the tour.

Pyongyang city seafront.

• Do not try to reason, state facts, change the narrative or attempt to overturn the words and actions of your North Korean guide or those you come across at designated sites.  This is their job, and while you might categorically know something not to be true, they have no choice, and you chose to be in this restricted and propaganda-heavy situation.
• Any attempt to converse privately with a North Korean citizen will be seen as an act of espionage.

North Korea guard explains the history to tourists visiting the border with South Korea.

• To act positive, praise-worthy and keep any negative thoughts to yourself and not say anything derogatory out loud.  It’s better to be submissive and accept the situation than to be seen as trying to overturn it.
• Do not bring with you any materials pertaining to South Korea, religion or anything that can be seen as a form of ideology of which you will be seen as imposing.

You must absolutely follow the rules for travel in North Korea and don’t do anything outside of those rules which may draw attention to yourself.

There are no exceptions to these rules and nor will you get off lightly. Imprisonment and torture are common forms of punishment and your tour company has no special command to get you off the hook.

Also, anything you do wrong also puts your North Korean’s life (and their family’s lives) at risk.

My North Korea Experience

Pyongyang, where the North Korea tour is mostly be based, isn’t a grim and frightening ghost town. Looking out from the top of the hotel, you are afforded a view just like any other big city, including skyscrapers, factories, monuments and mass housing. It is, after all, the centre of the country’s most elite – it exists as a centrepiece and to house particular people.

I thought Pyongyang would be a small concrete city, hidden from view. Instead, it sprawls for miles and miles and looks just like any other city, except it’s scattered with propaganda posters, mosaics and bronze sculptures of the Kims. It is both the pivotal destination for tourism, the capital and at the heart of the regime.

View of Pyongyang from the tourist hotel.

The high-rise buildings of Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea.

There is no denying that it is for show. This is not how the majority of North Koreans live. The city gleamed with new and pristine buildings, built to the grand imposing communist-style façade of dominance, modern progression and increasing wealth.

There are statues so immense that their towering presence automatically creates an air of intensity, like the artistic propaganda posters you can’t miss – a style I had previously learnt about at the Shanghai Propaganda Poster Art Centre prevalent during the Mao’s Communist Regime in China. The stylised shop fronts we too often take for granted when at home are, in fact, empty. Or they happened “to be closed” that day, of course.

Sightseeing in Pyongyang.

Bronze statues of the Kims riding horses.

Elevated view of Pyongyang City. 

It was, seemingly, a functioning city full of local people going about their daily lives. Whether that was the queue for a building we could only assume is a food and ration station (there are only tourist stores open), the pockets of people disappearing underground to use the Metro station or walking to the office, or the mothers out with their children, we got only a very, very small glimpse of daily life. Mostly from the bus window.

Streets of Pyongyang.

Pyongyang Metro entrance.

You must always remember what is deliberately presented to you when you travel in North Korea. 

Whilst you know about malnourishment and mass electricity blackouts, you don’t see it in the show city. So whilst there’s no denying the existence of this because there’s proof from defectors and undercover reporters, in Pyongyang it is not on the scale we are told about because the set-up is very different. Although extreme poverty does exist en masse throughout the country (as footage shows), this is what you (strategically) won’t see.

When we drove out of the city, we did pass shanty-type, less affluent towns. This was a real glimpse into how some of the population live outside of the capital and was the more shocking side to travel here. Of course, upon leaving Pyongyang, you can’t take images. Instead, you only remember what you saw. 

Construction was taking place everywhere, and we still wondered why many people were living in semi-completed buildings. I’ve also seen similar neighbourhoods in China and other parts of Asia, where buildings are left rather than being maintained and where wealth distribution is unbalanced. I wouldn’t say this housing is unique to North Korea, but it did show the existence of the same underbelly of poverty. From news investigations, we know deep down it’s far worse than what we see from a quick glance out of a bus window, of course. 

DPRK Propaganda sign in a neighbourhood in Pyongyang.

Life in Pyongyang.

What confused me the most about North Korea was the beautiful countryside in Nampo and around – green hills and yellow crop plantations, trees and orchards. In a land that has around 70% mountainous terrain, it looked pretty impressive.

Our British guide told us that North Korea had admitted to bad farming practices and that it lacked knowledge about beneficial methods, but it looked as though things were improving. Or could. If it was put into practice for the benefit of the people.

The countryside of North Korea.

I’m no farmer, but I wasn’t expecting to see so much green and grain. Whilst this may not produce a plentiful supply for the entire population, there is production in farming, although I have no doubt that it’s far from enough or distributed properly, if at all. There have been famines since the 1970s when the help from the Soviets ended, and the need for international aid began. 

The countryside near Nampo outside of Pyongyang.

Our visit to a local farm was very set up, and we had no belief that anyone we met actually lived there. The shame is that it still provides a window of hope for what can actually be.

A working farm in North Korea.

Farming in North Korea.

Our visit to an apple factory with its investment of millions of pounds worth of equipment looked as though a slow growth of manufacture and export is on the cards – or again, one could hope. The mechanism is there – it just needs to be implemented.

A mural of King Jong Il adorns the apple factory near Pyongyang.

Apple factory tour.

Apple products from the factory are on sale for tourists.

The question of what it is like to live in North Korea fascinates everybody. When you look into it a bit more deeply, we all are cut from an ideology of the society we are brought up in, except that in North Korea, it is on a very extreme scale to what we will ever know.

From what I observed when I was in North Korea and what I read before and after my visit, the majority of North Korean people know of nothing else, and by having no access to other sources or information and, therefore, no comparison (except the few who retain and obtain information and later defect), it appears they live in a world they assume is normal.

From that sense of normal appears to be a genuine love for the Kims – nearly everybody wears a pin badge bearing one or both of them, and many bow to the statues before work in the morning. They believe in everything they have been told as they have never known the full facts, or been given the means to find out or make a personal judgement. If you knew of nothing else, what would you do? Sure, there must be people from older generations who also know the absolute truth but have no option but to live in submission.

My point is that we shouldn’t be so quick to judge a nation of people without looking at their ideology in context. It’s devastating that people have to live in such isolation in this day and age. We, in the Western world, are lucky to live in societies where we have freedom of speech, freedom of expression, access to information and means from which to realise our aspirations and make informed choices.

We shouldn’t be so quick to brand a nation of people as odd, weird or crazy when they have no clue and are just going about their normal lives.

The normal they know.

The ethical question of visiting North Korea is a tricky one, and I sit on both sides of the fence.

On the one hand, everything that happens in North Korea is wrong. At the same time, in that case, we wouldn’t be travelling to many places. Some argue that by visiting North Korea you are helping to fund the regime or government’s objectives, but this applies to many countries open to tourism. Think of the corrupt governments that still exist in Asia and the Middle East, but you don’t think twice about heading there.

On the other hand, meeting North Koreans is a gateway to openness. The North Koreans we met were kind. Our guides were easy-going, approachable, witty and caring. Of course, you can’t talk openly to them, speak of things at home, or try to inform them of the facts behind the Korean War. This would be against the rules set upon you and at risk to them. Beyond the historical ‘facts’ they had to tell and the rules they had to impose (since they would be in serious trouble over any of our irresponsible actions) they weren’t lifeless robots. They became our friends, just like any other person.

On National Day, we walked through a park where locals were celebrating with their families, laying out a huge picnic, firing up the barbeques, playing music and dancing. Some were unsure of us, giving a stare that suggested a slight fear of the unknown and given what they have probably been told about the Western world and its people, others were welcoming, offering food and pulling us into their dancing circles.

You might question the serendipitous encounter at the time visitors arrived. Even if they were told to be there (which is highly likely), shaking hands, smiling and interacting was the only reassurance we could provide that we are not all bad, and I feel that is a positive start to what could be a slow but positive change in this country. 

Travelling to North Korea and a tourism drive could be one way to start opening the cracks.

National Day in North Korea.

What Do You Get to See in North Korea?

The number one rule of travel to North Korea is that you will never see the real North Korea. Travelling to North Korea is in no way a relaxing holiday or a form of vacation. They want you to return having believed the PR presentation about development, happiness and loyalty. 

A trip to North Korea is not complete without the sites they want you to see – the showpieces of the regime and the points of Hero Worship – such as Kim Il Sung Square and the statue we had to bow to, the Tower of Juche Idea, the Founding Party Monument, the captured US spy ship USS Pueblo, Kim Il Sung’s native home.

The Monument to Party Founding in Pyongyang.

Monuments and murals in North Korea.

Pyongyang parade ground markings.

One of the many monuments in North Korea.

Captured ship US Pablo shown to tourists in Pyongyang.

Korean traditional dress and dancing.

A fairground, a bowling alley, nights of karaoke. That’s also part of the itinerary and which you realise are places built for the elite locals and not just for western entertainment. Keeping the people happy and occupied – distraction keeps the ideological machine in motion.

The main downside to what you see is the imposed order and structure as well as the exaggerated explanation, yet this is what you expect before you come on the trip. Some things you visit, such as the farm collective, appear a little too set up with the people ‘placed’ there, which didn’t feel right or real at all. But you only had to look into the distance to get a better picture, without taking an actual photograph.

Propaganda literature and videos on a North Korea tour give an extremely one-sided argument to the history of the Korean War. It is frustrating, but you have to grin and bear it. Everything is built in what they call ‘chollima time’ such as their version of the Paris Arc de Triomphe, of which North Korea’s is bigger and took less time to build. “This would normally take five years to build, but we built it in three!”

North Korea’s version of the Arc de Triomphe in Pyongyang.

Local guides gush about Kim Il Sung more than you would declare the love you feel for your parents – he is often referred to as ‘our father’ much like religious terminology. Films detailing milestones of the country such as the building of the West Sea Barrage dam are long, tedious and full of descriptions of the ‘revolutionary spirit’ behind its construction. Every place of high importance bears a plaque of when one or both of the Kims made a visit, alongside a giant painting of them. 

This can become very tiring but does give solid insight into the way the minds of the people have been moulded and the lessons to be learnt from that.

While tourists can easily visit the DMZ in South Korea, North Korea’s tourism doesn’t leave this off the agenda. This is your chance to see it from the other side and, of course, hear the story from their perspective.

You get to sit in the same room, converse over the negotiation table (which you are not allowed to sit at when you visit from the South Korea side) and see the North Korean guards on duty at the borderline.

Visiting the DMZ on the North Korea side on a guided tour.

Around the table at the DMZ meeting room on the North Korea side.

North Korean guards at the DMZ border line.

After that, you will get to look through Binoculars out into the DMZ ‘No Man’s Land’ area in-between the two country borders, where you are informed North Korean guards keep constant watch.

Looking out into the DMZ No Mans Land from North Korea.

READ MORE: Visiting the DMZ in North and South Korea – The Story of Both Sides

One of the deepest metro systems in the world, you get to go 110 metres underground to ride the Pyongyang metro. Adorned in intricate mosaic tiled propaganda images and bronze and with revolutionary themed names like ‘Comrade’, ‘Glory’ and ‘Reunification’, North Korea’s subway is quite the experience.

This is a stop included on your organised tour since North Korea is both proud (of those stations on show) yet secretive and guarded since you can ride only five of the 16 stops. Of course, you embark and disembark at the grandest station of them all – Prosperity.

Hundreds of people can be seen making their way to and from work and home, on a ticket that costs 5 Won (less than one US cent). I have seen images of all 16 stations in use and apparently, you can ride all of them – you just don’t on a tour as it would take too long. But in reality, we will never know if the entire metro system is in constant working order and for whom such a service is for.

I’m fascinated by metro systems all over the world and the Pyongyang subway is a highlight for the curious-minded. I would love to ride them all since it is said each station exists as a timeline and story flow of North Korea’s history.

The part of the metro in Pyongyang open to tourists.

Inside the decorated Pyongyang metro station.

Newspaper on the platform of the Pyongyang metro subway platform.

When you sign up for your North Korea tour you will be asked if you would like to purchase a ticket to the famous Arirang Mass Games spectacle at the Rungrado May Day Stadium, also known as the Arirang Festival. It is deemed a highlight and THE thing to see in Pyongyang, There are various tickets for different seating plans, but for the majority of tourists this feat of athleticism and showmanship of gymnastics is a highlight.

The Mass Games in North Korea.

While no show on earth will ever compare to that of the Mass Games in North Korea – a spectacle so incredible and full of athletic prowess that it blows your mind – it was also very uncomfortable to watch.  

At the back of your mind weighs the reality of the extreme training of the participants, who live within a gruelling and dominant regime where the Mass Games is a part of the societal showcase. You can imagine the pain and endurance to be perfect, and exactly what would happen if someone messed up. No one puts a foot wrong during the performance.

As a communist state, North Korean flags and red symbols appear heavily throughout. The huge picture in the background? That’s school kids trained all year to make images from pieces of coloured cards for hours on end at this show.

Watching the Arirang Mass Games in North Korea.

The hundreds of performers at the Arirang Mass Games.

The Grand Mass Gymnastics and Artistic Performance Arirang.

While places of communist past have or are slowly moving on, becoming ‘socialist’ and slightly more progressive, North Korea lags behind by still keeping an ultimate grip on its people, yet struggling with the realisation that it needs to develop, trade and open up with the rest of the world in order to sustain itself in the modern age.

A country striking fear into the heart of its people is the only way it maintains control. This is something my generation, in particular, doesn’t understand as many of us have never had to live in a country in serious conflict with another. Whilst we would all love to see a united Korea, it wouldn’t be that easy.

Think of the differences between East and West Berliners when the wall came down. Two ideologies and different ways of life collided; two economic and education systems trying to integrate. I couldn’t imagine this would be an easy process of bringing immediate peace, but hopefully, I will see some movement towards this in my lifetime.

In tourism’s infancy, around 1,500 tourists visit North Korea annually. Today, that number is more in the regions of hundreds of thousands, but mainly from the Chinese market in comparison to the smaller numbers of western tourists going to the DPRK. Still, that’s thousands more than we ever thought possible.

From what we were told from the Koryo Tours representative with us, the more time goes by, the more tourists are allowed to see and do – a two-way trust process that slowly grows, where we can show the North Koreans a positive side to the Western world and its people and where we can try to understand them. A hope that it somehow paves the way for openness.

Maybe one day the people will harness the power for change or the ideological system will change.

Only then can we be friends without restriction. 

It was important for me to gain a wider perspective on the culture and history of the Koreas and the conflict, and so a few months later I travelled to South Korea for three weeks. I was able to see some core sights and gain a better understanding of just how different life is on the other, more accessible side of this heavily tested border.

About Becki

Becki Enright is a British Travel Press Award-winning writer whose work focuses on changing perceptions about misunderstood aspects of destinations. Her writing combines storytelling with insight into the social, historical, political and economic factors that shape the country or place in relation to tourism. Becki has appeared live on Sky News and CNN and has contributed to high profile media including National Geographic, Time.com, Guardian online, New York Times, Grazia and Buzzfeed.

Chris Padley says

19 August 2023 at 8:47 am

In his TV programme made of his visit to N.K. Michael Palin visited a park on National Day too. A comparison between this, as seen in the TV programme, and your description of your own experience is interesting.

Paul Cosgrave says

13 June 2023 at 9:56 pm

Becki: Great Article. You are a brave person to have gone to North Korea. As an American I will not be going anytime soon. I agree with your comments that travel is so important to help us understand the people and their motivations who have grown up in different cultures than ourselves. I realized this in a recent trip through Vietnam and Cambodia where the culture is clearly not as different from our western background as what you experienced in North Korea, but nevertheless very different from what I had expected. The one thing I have learned from my travel is that people around the world are much more similar than they are different.

6 January 2023 at 7:27 am

I traveled to North Korea in 2007. Americans were not allowed to visit for a long time but when they allowed a few American tour groups in that year I jumped at the chance

Everything in this rings true to me. I am still conflicted as to whether giving money to the regime was a good thing

However there were several moments when I had a brief but human chat or laugh with one of our guides. Talking about family and universal stuff. I hope that made a tiny bit of difference in understanding

6 January 2023 at 1:46 pm

It’s a real conflict mentally and morally. Although North Korea is up there as one of the worst, we sadly give our money to many regimes when travelling. But I firmly believe that those chats on universal stuff are a way of paving the way to openness, truth and understanding.

Aaron Galan says

17 May 2020 at 8:30 am

I would love to go to North Korea just to have another perspective of what it is shown on TV. Maybe give a chance to this country, because it’s easy to say that a country is bad for its bad reputation on TV. And I know this because sometimes other countries think that Mexico is just as bad as a Warzone. Apart from that I would like to see if it’s true that everything is as Asymmetrical as everyone says. I would also like to visit the DMZ from both perspectives to compare each sides of the stories

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In a country where all ideology exists to serve the ruling regime, statues, portraits and murals of the DPRK’s God-like former leaders  Kim Il-sung  and  Kim Jong-il  are omnipresent. 

Alongside them are an almost endless collection of Cold War-inspired monuments dedicated to the Workers Party of Korea and to revolution and resistance. Propaganda posters and slogans that declare the nation’s march towards inevitable victory are the only form of advertising.

See Also: The Best Books About North Korea

Nowhere is all this more on show than in the nation’s showpiece capital, Pyongyang . The home of the country’s most elite and loyal citizens, Pyongyang is the epicentre of the North Korean regime. 

No visit to North Korea is complete without a visit to the northern side of the infamous Demilitarised Zone , the heavily armed Korean border known as the DMZ.

Nearby, the ancient city of Kaesong , the capital of Korea for almost 500 years, retains many historic sites granted UNESCO World Heritage status.

To the north of Pyongyang are the spectacular mountains of Myohyangsan . The beaches around the east coast near Wonsan attract a growing number of international tourists.

On the border with China in the far north is the sacred Mount Paektu , dominated by the stunning Chon Lake, which is also an unlikely ski resort.

Is it Safe to Visit North Korea?

Though visiting North Korea is not completely free from risk, all tourists are treated as welcome guests in the country. Incidents involving tourists getting into trouble in North Korea have been high profile but are incredibly rare.

Of course, there are some very important rules to follow and visitors to the DPRK should always behave appropriately, especially when visiting sites connected to the Kim regime. Yet on the whole, tourists in North Korea are valued by the authorities and will never be put in a position of harm. 

Respect the Regime and Do Not Question the Historical Narrative

Visiting North Korea means having to accept the DPRK’s version of events regarding the history of Korea. 

Almost everything you’re told regarding the history of the DPRK is likely to be  heavily biased, wildly inaccurate and sometimes completely made up . Visitors with a deeper knowledge of the Korean Peninsula, and the Korean War in particular, will often need to hold their tongue. North Korea’s version of events is not up for debate.

All visitors to the DPRK also need to be aware that criticism of the North Korean leaders will not be tolerated . This includes the current President, Kim Jong-un, but especially applies to Kim Il-sung, the founder of the DPRK, and his son and successor, Kim Jong-il.

Criticism of any of the Kims is a serious offence. Any discussions of the leaders should always be complimentary or at least civil. If you have a genuine (and safe) question to ask about the Kims then do feel free to ask your guides. 

If you think a question might be borderline, play it safe and wait until you are somewhere you can Google it. Also be aware that you will be expected to bow in front of the many enormous statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il that you visit. 

Tour Packages to North Korea

Travel to the DPRK is only possible through a handful of well-established companies that specialise in tours of North Korea . The most well-known company that offers tour packages to North Korea is Koryo Tours , who have organised tours to the DPRK since 1993. Other well-established tour companies to consider are Regent Holidays and Uri Tours . 

There are only two ways to enter North Korea , both of which are via China. The longer option is a 25 hour train journey from Beijing. The shorter route is a two hour flight from Beijing’s Capital International Airport on North Korea’s state-owned airline Air Koryo. 

When arranging your trip your tour company will ask which mode of transport you’d prefer and the costs of the flights or train tickets will be included in the total cost of the package.

Choosing a Group Tour or a Private Tour of North Korea

Tour companies can arrange group or private tours to North Korea . All tours are led by North Korean guides who are appointed by the authorities in the DPRK. Your tour company will organise your North Korea itinerary, travel arrangements to and from Pyongyang, and take care of all required visas.

Whilst more expensive than group tours, arranging a private tour means that you’re likely to get a lot more out of your visit to North Korea. 

On a private tour your North Korean guides will be dedicated to you alone, meaning that you will receive a much more personalised service, allowing you much greater insight into the places you visit on your North Korea tour. You’ll also generally have more time to spend at specific sites, plus you’ll be in a smaller vehicle, which allows you to get surprisingly far from the beaten track.

Group tours usually consist of around 10 or 20 people who will all follow the same itinerary travelling by coach within North Korea. While it’s a less personalised agenda, group tours are more affordable and you’ll still get to see many of North Korea’s highlights. 

Choosing Your DPRK Itinerary

We booked a private tour for our 10 days in North Korea. Choosing a private tour allowed us to create a trip more tailored to what we were interested in seeing in the DPRK. 

As well as the more famous sights in the DPRK, many of the stops scheduled in our North Korea itinerary were mandatory . In every tour there will be visits to schools, universities, factories and farms that the regime wants Western visitors to see as part of their North Korean tour. 

Our 10 Day North Korea Itinerary

This is the breakdown of our ten day North Korea itinerary:

Day 1:  Arrival in Pyongyang from Beijing Day 2 & 3:  Two days spent in Pyongyang, driving to Kaesong at the end of day three Day 4:  Kaesong City and the DMZ Days 5:  Return to Pyongyang via Pakyon Waterfall, Sariwon and the West Sea Barrage Days 6 & 7:  Two days in Pyongyang, including the Day of the Sun Day 8:  Drive north to Mount Myohyang via Pyongsong and the Paeksang Pavilion Day 9:  Visit the Pohyon Temple, International Friendship Exhibition and Myohyangsan. Drive back to Pyongyang.  Day 10:  Check out and depart Pyongyang for Beijing.

10 Days in North Korea: Day 1

Arriving in pyongyang.

Though tempted by the adventure and intrigue of arriving by train, we chose the convenience of the short flight from Beijing to Pyongyang on Air Koryo. 

Despite the airline’s less than wonderful reputation and the plane’s dear need for some TLC, the two hour flight was noticeably smooth and trouble free.

The plane’s tired décor reflected its age; a few chair backs comically slid backwards of their own accord as we began to take off. The first taste of North Korean propaganda begins on board. 

Along with the infamous Air Koryo burgers , copies of the English language Pyongyang Times were distributed and eagerly consumed by the flight’s international cast of passengers. 

Archaic flip-down TV screens silently played dated footage of a colourful and abundant DPRK. As we began our descent, the beige fields that surround Pyongyang are blanketed by dull grey skies.

Pyongyang’s Sunan International Airport and a copy of the Pyongyang Times

On arrival in Pyongyang , there’s no immediate sign that we have landed anywhere out of the ordinary. Pyongyang’s recently refurbished Sunan International Airport is modest yet modern, consisting of three bright and airy terminals. 

Once through passport control, stern customs officials inspect the luggage of all new arrivals, including phones, laptops, tablets and anything vaguely electronic. Books are also checked, for their subject matter and for anything hidden between the pages. 

Meeting Our Guides and Driver at Pyongyang Airport

Once customs are satisfied with our luggage, our two female North Korean guides introduce themselves. Immaculately dressed, both are full of smiles and genuinely friendly. There’s around a five year age gap between them, and they seem more like sisters than work colleagues. 

Outside the airport we’re introduced to our driver, a warm, quiet and friendly man in his forties. The three make an excellent team and will come to feel more like companions rather than guides over the course of our trip.

* To be on the safe side, we’ve decided against posting the names or any photos of our guides and driver, on the incredibly slim chance that the way that we portray them is spotted by their superiors and considered inappropriate in any way. Apparently this has been known to happen in the past, so we’ve decided to play it safe.

Driving into Pyongyang

We drive into Pyongyang underneath grey skies and drizzle. There is little alongside the main road that leads into the city from the airport except brown barren fields, divided into neat segments. Leafless trees line the wet road, which is largely free of traffic.

Despite months of planning and preparation, finally being in North Korea feels completely surreal. No matter how much you read about the DPRK, or how many documentaries or news reports you see, nothing fully prepares you for the feeling of being in North Korea.

As if opening a pop-up book, Pyongyang suddenly appears out of nowhere. Very few places shine under such grey and damp conditions, but it’s hard to avoid the initial impression that Pyongyang looks a little bleak. The only colour comes from the aging housing blocks badly painted in a variety of fading primary colours.

A First Visit to Kim Il-sung Square

By now it’s late afternoon. Our guides suggest we stop in a cafe to confirm the plans for each day of our itinerary. Over strawberry tea we plot out the week, and then drive to a grey and wet Kim Il-sung Square .

If Pyongyang is North Korea’s showcase capital, then Kim Il-sung Square is its stage. Kim Il-sung Square is the location for the  many military parades and celebratory mass rallies North Korea is famous for.

Thousands of tiny dots and numbers are sprayed onto the floor of the enormous square, markers for the attendees at the highly choreographed rallies.

The flags of North Korea and the Workers Party of Korea stand on top of the government buildings that frame the square. Under grim grey skies, the mammoth empty square looks more than a little dystopian.

Capping it all off are the huge portraits of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il that hang from the imposing People’s Grand Study House opposite the square.

Their matching glasses and grins will become very familiar in no time at all. Images of both men are virtually everywhere in the DPRK.

Checking In at the Yanggakdo Hotel

Almost all foreign visitors to Pyongyang stay in one of two hotels, either the Koryo Hotel or the Yanggakdo International Hotel , where we’re based each night we’re in the capital.

With 1001 rooms, the Yanggakdo Hotel towers over Pyongyang from an island in the middle of the Taedong River. Though the rooms show a few signs of age, the Yanggakdo Hotel is meant to impress.

The dazzling entrance and Reception lobby makes a fantastic first impression, flanked by coffee shops, restaurants and bars. 

In the basement is a casino, a bowling alley and more bars. On top of the building is a revolving restaurant, though it is noticeably static on the one night we head up for drinks.

Day 2 in the DPRK: Sightseeing in Pyongyang

Following breakfast in the Yanggakdo Hotel’s jaw-dropping and palatial dining hall we meet our guides in the lobby. Our schedule for our first full day of our North Korea tour is jam packed with some of Pyongyang’s most famous sights. 

The Mansudae Hill Grand Monument

We start the day at The Mansudae Hill Grand Monument , the official name of the famous bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, North Korea’s two former leaders. 

It is impossible to overstate the DPRK’s devotion to  the mythology of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il , of which the Mansudae Hill Grand Monument is just the tip of the iceberg.

As part of their cult of personality, North Korean’s are taught from birth that Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il are gods amongst men, admired and adored the world over. Kim Il-sung especially is considered as much more than just a former head of state. 

Even after their deaths their official titles are the  Eternal President and the Eternal Leader  of the DPRK. As we walk towards the two statues our guide states as fact that Kim Il-sung “is the sun”. Such a statement seems incredulous to the unindoctrinated.

A  carefully cultivated state-controlled history of the Kims  portrays both men as the nation’s benevolent father figures. In all of the thousands of portraits and statues of the Kims all over the country, they are always smiling and happy, often surrounded by loving admirers.

At 22 metres tall the statues at Mansudae Grand Monument are breathtaking in their scale and audacity. The statues are an imposing symbol of the power and of the reach of regime and the Kim dynasty.

On the road that passes in front of the statues is a speed limit of just 30 kilometres an hour, so that deference can be paid to the Kims as drivers slowly trundle past.

On either side of the two statues are two dioramas dedicated to the anti-Japanese resistance movement and the DPRK’s socialist struggle. Both consists of statues of heroic fighters and revolutionaries progressing towards victory. 

As is expected of us, we bow in front of the leaders and place the plastic bouquet of flowers we were told to buy just before we arrived on the pile at their feet.

We’re the only Westerners here amongst a group of formally dressed North Koreans who have braved the rain. Our guide explains that they are a wedding party, with the bride dressed in the bright vibrant colours of North Korea’s national dress. According to our guide all newly married couples in Pyongyang visit Mansudae Grand Monument as part of their wedding day celebrations.

The Grand People's Study House

Next we’re taken to the Grand People’s Study House , the elaborate name for Pyongyang’s main central library. Built in the style of a traditional Korean palace, we’re met by a phenomenal portrait of Kim Il-sung in the library’s grand grey marble entrance. A guide from the Grand People’s Study House shows us around.

A genuinely impressive building, there is clearly an ulterior motive behind our visit, which is to portray the country as enlightened place of open learning and free thinking. There will be many similar trips during our 10 days in North Korea, each one an attempt to dispel the outside world’s perceptions of the DPRK.

We’re taken through a massive main lobby of marble and thick columns. In various study rooms are a collection of fairly modern computers, all connected to the library’s own catalogue system or the North Korean intranet .

In one room are books in many different languages on a variety of topics, from Swedish cooking to Photoshop manuals in Chinese. We drop in on a busy English lesson and are told that all of the courses held at the People’s Grand Study House are free and are open for all.

Next we’re taken in to a music room. The guide explains that students can come here whenever they want to relax and that they can listen to any of the music that’s in the library’s collection. The room is empty and there are several rows of desks, each with an old-school hi-fi stereo.

A member of staff steps forward with a nervous smile. “The Beatles” she says, referring to the battered CD case in her hand. She pops the CD into a stereo and puts on track 17. 

Two and a half awkward minutes of Yellow Submarine follows, before it’s decided that we’ve all heard enough. Clearly not a fan, our younger guide doesn’t hold back. “That was awful”.

With The Beatles cut short, we step outside onto an enormous balcony with a wonderful view of central Pyongyang. As we approach early afternoon the grey skies are trying to lift over Kim Il-sung Square and, on the opposite side of the Taedong River, the Juche Tower.

Food as Propaganda

Next we head for lunch in one of the many restaurants around Pyongyang that are approved for tourist groups. In a country that has known terrible famine and that  still relies on international aid programmes , meal times for tourists are also a part of the country’s propaganda drive.

Every meal we are served during our 10 days in North Korea is deliberately enormous. Each consists of around twelve side dishes served before a massive main course. The only possible assumption is that meal times are meant to send a message that food is plentiful in North Korea.

Our first dinner is  Pyongyang cold noodles , a speciality of the DPRK, alongside a huge spread of side dishes, known as banchan in Korean. The side dishes alone are enough to feed a small army, and when the cold noodles arrive they’re just as gargantuan. 

Our guides and driver eat with us most days. The two petite guides eat like horses, capable of wolfing down meals in a matter of minutes. It is genuinely impressive to witness.

The Artists of the Mansudae Art Studio

After lunch we’re taken to the Mansudae Art Studio . The Mansudae Art Studio’s only remit is to create state approved propaganda and heavily romanticised artworks of life in the DPRK. According to our guide, over 1000 artists work in the Mansudae Art Studio.

The many paintings, murals, sculptures and iconic posters found in every city and town in the DPRK are created here, including the two Kim statues at the Mansudae Hill Grand Monument.

The artists have even carried out lucrative commissions overseas. Artists from Mansudae have created bespoke monuments in such unlikely places as Mozambique, Botswana and Namibia .

The complex is enormous and various examples of their grandiose artworks are spread around the studio’s grounds. Huge murals of both Kims adorn the walls of the building, alongside fantastic bronze statues of the pair on horses.

We call in to two studios, where the artists are both working on beautiful paintings of rural scenes. There must be worse ways of making a living in North Korea, but the lack of artistic freedom must surely become infuriating over time.

Taking a Ride on the Pyongyang Metro

Nearby is Puhung Metro Station, where we start our three station ride on Pyongyang’s famously ornate underground. 

Heavily influenced by the spectacular Moscow Metro, and one of the deepest underground systems in the world, a ride on Pyongyang’s Metro has become an iconic part of any visit to North Korea.

On the escalator to the platform, children stop and stare at the Western faces as they pass as their parents stare straight ahead. Other commuters bury their heads in newspapers, books or  their smartphones , just as if they were anywhere else in the world.  

When we finally reach the bottom of the escalator, the sight of the platform is truly breath-taking; marble walls are lit by sensational ruby chandeliers. The platform is vast, with the two tracks seemingly an afterthought. Clearly designed as a spectacular statement, the station feels more like a ballroom than a transport hub.

On the walls of the station are colourful mosaic murals of happy workers, all overseen at the far end of the platform by a smiling Kim Il-sung.

On the platform commuters gather around the pages of the daily newspaper of the Korean Workers Party, the Rodong Sinmun .

A train rolls in to the station and we take a seat alongside the other passengers, alighting a few stops later at Pongwa Station. The trains used on the Pyongyang Metro are a little more sombre than the stations’ platforms.

The majority date from the 1980s, where they were originally used on West Berlin’s U Bahn network. At the end of each train compartment are the grinning portraits of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il.

A Musical Performance at June 9th Middle School

Our driver is waiting for us outside Pongwa Station and we move on to see a musical performance by students at June 9 th Middle School . 

An English teacher acts as our guide and tells us with pride that the school was built on Kim Il-sung’s orders, and that he and Kim Il-Jung both visited the school a number of times.

It’s evident that the school benefits from its favourable connection with the Supreme Leader. From the outside the school looks just like any decent secondary school in the west, aside from the portraits of the Kims that hang above the entrance. 

On the impressive synthetic pitch the school’s brass band gives a short rousing performance whilst other pupils kick a football around on the basketball court.

We’re led inside to a room that displays the history of the school. The main focus is the school’s close connection to the Kims. 

At the centre of the room is a photo of Kim Il-sung voting in elections for the school’s headmaster. Presumably whoever he voted for won. As is the custom in North Korea, the ballot box he used is now on display under a protective Perspex box.

We head upstairs to a small theatre for another musical performance. On stage a rotating group of around 20 pupils sing a collection of traditional North Korean songs for us and two groups of Chinese tourists. They also perform a perfect rendition of a traditional Chinese folk song, much to the delight of the Chinese visitors.

Taking a Walk in Ryomyong New Town

From the school we drive to Ryomyong New Town , a district of Pyongyang that the DPRK is keen for tourists to see. As we arrive in Ryomyong, our guides suggest a walk. We’re dropped off by our driver and we stroll the short distance to our restaurant for the evening.

Ryomyong New Town is an area that has been transformed in next to no time at all on the orders of President Kim Jong-un. We’re told that dozens of old housing blocks were demolished and replaced by modern high rise apartments with futuristic designs . 

It’s claimed that the whole project was completed in less than a year, and that the apartments are mostly for lecturers and staff of the nearby Kim Il-sung University, the most prestigious university in the DPRK.

There is a steady stream of people on Ryomyong Avenue as we slowly walk towards the restaurant. The towering apartments are undeniably impressive, a huge departure from the low rise Soviet-inspired housing blocks seen across much of the city. 

They’re all designed in an unconventional architectural style that is perhaps unique to the DPRK, and all feature a pale pea green exterior, seemingly the colour scheme for Ryomyong.

Having now had a full day in Pyongyang, it’s possible to get a different take on the city than the first impression formed under the grey skies and rain of the day before. It seems clear that the city, and probably the whole country, is at some kind of crossroads between the past and the future. 

There are signs of modernity everywhere; though nothing like the gridlock that plagues most Asian capital cities, there’s plenty of traffic on Pyongyang’s streets. Taxis are commonplace too. 

Whilst public transport is cramped and crowded, electric bicycles are surprisingly common, suggesting that there is a wealthy consumer class in Pyongyang. Nearly everyone is glued to a smartphone.

Interestingly, almost every apartment we see has a solar panel hanging from a window, which implies that state provided power is still unreliable and that people are trying to find their own solutions. 

Whilst allowing it’s citizens a degree of self-sufficiency and  tolerating a level of free enterprise , it’s clear that the regime still has total control of North Korean society.

Day 3 in North Korea: Pyongyang and Kaesong

Mirae future scientists street.

The bulk of our third day in North Korea is to be spent in Pyongyang before driving south to the city of Kaesong in the late evening. The day begins with a walk around another of Pyongyang’s modern showpiece neighbourhoods named Mirae Scientists Street .

Just as with Ryomyong, Mirae Scientists Street is another recently redeveloped district featuring a glut of futuristic and colourful apartments. 

Also known as Future Scientists Street, the area is supposedly a symbol of Kim Jon-un’s wish for the DPRK to place a greater emphasis on scientific, technological, and above all, nuclear development.

We’re told that the apartments on Mirae Scientists Street are allocated to lecturers and students at the nearby Kim Chaek University of Technology. 

With their curved balconies and soft rounded edges, and decorated in greens, blues and oranges, the apartments and tower blocks are another huge leap forward from Pyongyang’s aging Soviet era housing blocks. An unwitting example of  retrofuturism , the whole area looks as if it has been inspired by The Jetsons.

The Arch of Triumph

Next we move on to something much more typically North Korean, the Arch of Triumph . Based on Paris’ Arc de Triomphe, Pyongyang’s arch honours Kim Il-sung’s leading role in the Korean resistance to Japanese occupation. 

According to North Korea’s version of events, Kim Il-sung almost single-handedly overthrew the Japanese occupation of Korea, ignoring the pivotal roles played by the likes of the Soviet Union and China.

In a typical display of Communist one-upmanship, the Arch of Triumph is 10 meters taller than its Parisian counterpart. Built in 1982, the Arch of Triumph straddles a wide avenue that’s largely free of traffic. The exaggerated grandeur of the arch gives it the look of a folly. 

Inscribed into the arch are patterns of magnolias, the national flower of North Korea, and the dates of 1925-1945. According to North Korean teaching, these are the years of Kim Il-sung’s ultimately victorious campaign of resistance against Japan’s occupation of Korea.

The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

Our next stop of the day proves the exception to the rule that history is written by the victors. The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum shows that with a state controlled monopoly on all news and information, history can be whatever you want it to be. 

The Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum is phenomenal in every sense. Gargantuan in size, it’s hard to know if the museum’s guide – dressed in full military uniform – is exaggerating when she says it would take three days to see the whole exhibition.

The museum reflects the North Korean teaching that the DPRK was a blameless victim in the Korean War, cruelly invaded  rather than the instigator , and fighting alone against the might of the United States army and several mercenary allies. 

Here, the armistice that ended the war is painted as a massive victory for the DPRK over their hated foe  rather than a truce agreed between both sides .

The jewel in the crown is the USS Pueblo , the US Navy spy ship that was captured in the seas off North Korea in 1968. 

According to the museum’s guide the  USS Pueblo  entered North Korean waters 17 times before it was seized, though the United States maintains that the boat was attacked and unlawfully apprehended whilst in international waters in the Sea of Japan.

On board our guides tells us that the Pueblo was captured by a humble North Korean fishing vessel, which doesn’t account for multitude of enormous bullet holes that are proudly circled throughout the centre of the boat. 

The written confessions of the captain and crew are proudly displayed, though no mention is made of the horrific torture used to acquire them. After 11 torrid months the 83 crew members were eventually returned to the United States in December 1968.

The interior of the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum is a sight to behold. A recent renovation massively increased the size of the museum, adding a whole new building. The inspiration for the interior seems to have been a high end Vegas hotel.

The USS Pueblo; the written confessions of the crew and some of the ship’s machinery

Marking the entrance of the museum is an incredible statue of a Kim Il-sung. Around twenty feet tall, and standing at the top of a sweeping staircase, the  Supreme Leader looks like a K-pop star . 

Dressed in a gleaming white military uniform, he has more than a passing resemblance to his grandson, Kim Jong-Un. Our guides dutifully bow at his feet.

Given the ludicrous size of the museum we’re only shown a few highlights, mainly focusing on the heroic resistance of Kim Il-sung and the atrocities committed by the Americans. 

The scale of the museum is magnified by just how empty it is. Aside from a few local groups, seemingly made up of school children and young military cadets, we’re the only people there. 

Amongst the vast exhibition are a number of pretty grim photos of the innocent victims of the Korean War, mostly dead and badly mutilated bodies of women and children. 

Another area shows the possessions and weapons of various Americans army officers left behind on battlefields. A number of photos of dead American soldiers are proudly displayed above a mock-up of a desolate battlefield featuring waxwork models of defeated US soldiers being eaten by ravens.

The final area we see is a huge circular room with an intricately detailed 360 degree painted diorama of  the Battle of Taejon . 

The diorama rotates as the battle scene slowly shifts to show the various gun fights, explosions and horrors of the conflict. The attentions of a large group of teenage school children are split between the story of the battle and the Westerners amongst their ranks.

Shopping at Pyongyang's Kwangbok Supermarket

After lunch we arrive at the Kwangbok Supermarket . The visit is clearly a propaganda exercise,  showing off the wealth of goods on display here to sceptical outsiders . 

Though we’re obviously being monitored by somebody somewhere, to our surprise our guides agree to meet us back near the entrance in an hour and let us wander around of our own accord.

Spread across three levels, the ground floor is a typical supermarket, whilst on the two upper floors are clothes, home furnishings, and other household goods. Walking around the supermarket affords a fascinating glimpse into the products that are available in North Korea.

Despite the well-publicised economic sanctions, the shelves are well stocked with everything you’d expect to see in any supermarket anywhere else in the world. The majority of products seem to be imports from friendly countries, such as Vietnam and China, alongside a handful of items produced in North Korea. 

There’s plenty of fresh food, such as fish, meat and vegetables, and a number of global brands on the shelves too, including Heinz ketchup, Haribo sweets, and Heineken beer.

Upstairs a sign advertising Ikea furniture catches our eye. We take the escalator up a level and to our surprise various Ikea beds, wardrobes, desks and settees have somehow made their way into the country, assembled and displayed in the same manner as they are in Ikea stores. It’s fascinating and slightly depressing to see that Ikea’s reach has even managed to infiltrate North Korea.

Target Practice at Maeri Shooting Range

From Kwangbok Supermarket we drive to Maeri Shooting Range . In such a fervently militaristic country, our guides seem slightly amused that we’ve never previously fired a gun. 

The firing range is in an area of Pyongyang dedicated to sport. On the same street are a number of gymnasiums, swimming pools, and a football stadium.

At the shooting range we’re taken through to an indoor rifle range. A couple of rifles are scattered around, and the all-female staff, again all dressed in military uniform, wait expectantly in the firing booths.

One of our guides quickly translates a few rudimentary instructions as a loaded rifle is placed in our hands. The tiny target wobbles around in the rifle’s viewfinder fifty metres away. 

We’re given a round of ten bullets in which to hit the centre of the target, but it’s reassuringly difficult. The army-attired staff almost seem annoyed with us each time we miss the heart of the target. 

We’re offered the chance of a second round, this time firing a sniper rifle. Despite having a much clearer viewfinder, the centre of the target proves even more elusive. It looks a lot easier in films.

After the rifles we try a third round, this time with a pistol. Even though the target is much closer at 25 metres it’s even harder to hit. We’re told that there’s an outdoor range where we can shoot live chickens but that sounds horrific and we politely decline.

A Tour of Mangyongdae Schoolchildren’s Palace

The final stop of the day in Pyongyang comes at the Mangyongdae Schoolchildren’s Palace , where our guides tell us children come after school to learn a host of extra-curricular activities.

A key piece of state propaganda, the Mangyongdae Schoolchildren’s Palace features on most trips to North Korea. The building is enormous and the interior looks like a school designed by children; rainbows are painted on the walls and planets and stars hang from the ceilings above the huge central foyer.

A young schoolgirl acts as our guide, and we’re taken from classroom to classroom to see various lessons in progress. There is an emphasis on the arts and lessons range from calligraphy, embroidery, dance, accordion and ajeang, a type of Korean zither.

Whilst the children are clearly all incredibly talented, it’s hard to imagine how the feel about being paraded in front of groups of tourists in this way. 

The experience does begin to feel a little unsettling; by now we’ve been joined by several busloads of Chinese and Western tourists. Some of the children look a little unhappy at having to perform in front of jostling groups of tourists.

After the tour of the classrooms we’re taken into a huge theatre for an hour long performance by some of the school’s most gifted children. 

A mixture of music and dance, accompanied by the school’s own orchestra, the show is a phenomenal display of the children’s exceptional talent. 

The show is also another fascinating piece of propaganda. Whilst we can’t be certain of the content of the songs from the lyrics, the giant video screen in the background leaves little doubt of the concert’s theme. 

The performances are enhanced with images of Kim Il-sung’s birthplace,  Mount Paektu , military parades, and, oddly, fishing boats. 

The Arch of Reunification

After the performance we start the journey south towards Kaesong . On the way we stop to admire the Arch of Reunification at the start of the Pyongyang-Kaesong Highway, also known as the Reunification Highway. 

The arch, built in 2001, commemorates proposals made by Kim Il-sung for the reunification of North and South Korea, and features two women in Korean national dress, one representing the North the other the South. Together they hold a globe featuring a map of the Korean Peninsula.

It becomes apparent that the regime constantly talks up the desire to reunify Korea though it seems far from being a real objective. With the benefit of an outside eye, it feels as though the division of Korea is used as a tool by the regime to stoke up a feeling of injustice and victimisation amongst the North Korean people.

Judging by much of what we’ve already seen, such as the Fatherland Liberation War Museum, where so much money and effort has gone into telling a false narrative, the real goal of the North Korean regime seems to be to self-preservation and to keep things exactly as they are.

Driving to Kaesong on the Reunification Highway

Immediately after the Arch of Reunification, Pyongyang stops dead. The city is replaced by an endless patchwork of near empty mustard-yellow fields. The journey along the highway reveals a different side to North Korea. 

As the city disappears behind us our guide quickly gives us a lesson in North Korean farming; the main crops grown are rice and maize; only around 20% of the land in North Korea is arable; crops are planted by hand and by machine; there are two types of farms, state owned and cooperative farms.

To the untrained eye the fields we pass on the bumpy highway all appear pretty barren. There’s a constant drip of people walking with intent along the road and across the fields at every stage of the entire journey. 

We pass several small villages of traditional Korean  hanok-style houses  far off in the distance, but it’s impossible to tell where people are going or where they’ve come from.

The surface of the four lane highway is dreadful, reminiscent of a neglected airport runway. Virtually free of any other vehicles, bicycles and pedestrians are by far the main source of traffic. 

Occasionally a group of workers line the side of the road, either sweeping away leaves or filling in some of the huge cracks in the road in vain.

It takes close to three hours to drive the 160 kilometres between here and the city of Kaesong, just short of the Korean border. There are four checkpoints to pass on the way, a reminder of the restrictions on the freedom of movement in North Korea.

Every checkpoint is manned by a young solider, each one barely out of their teens, with a rifle strapped across his back. On occasion it looked as though a few of the soldiers seemed afraid of the responsibility of their position.

It’s after 9.00pm by the time we eventually arrive in Kaesong. Ours is the only vehicle on the enormous six lane road that leads into the city from the highway. 

Two illuminated bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il stand over the city centre. With almost no street lighting anywhere the rest of the city is in near total darkness.

Arriving at our hotel we’re told that there’s one hour of hot water at night, between 9.00 and 10.00pm, and another hour between 7.00 and 8.00 in the mornings. 

As we reach our room, a bright red sign in a golden frame hangs above the door. Our guide translates the sign for us; Kim Il-sung stayed in the very same room in July 1972.

Day 4 in the DPRK: Kaesong and the DMZ

The tombs of king kongmin and king wanggon.

The next day we wake to beautiful sunshine but no hot water, and after breakfast it’s a twenty minute drive to the first stop of the day, the Tombs of King Kongmin and King Wanggon .

Though most commonly known for its proximity to the Korean border and the DMZ, Kaesong has a long and rich history. Before Seoul, Kaesong was the capital of Korea for almost 500 years. 

During the Korean War, the United States planned to keep Kaesong in South Korea and though still badly damaged, the area avoided the worst of the bombing campaigns. As a result a fair few examples of the region’s ancient history survived intact. 

Many areas around Kaesong are  designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites , including the tombs of King Kongmin and King Wanggon. The tombs are just a few miles apart from each other along a dusty mountain road to the east of Kaesong. 

The tomb of King Kongmin stands at the top of a steep hill surrounded by beautifully manicured grounds. Next to the tomb of King Kongmin is the tomb of his wife, Queen Noguk.

Granite statues of warriors, officials, tigers and sheep watch over the tombs. Both tombs date from the 14 th century and are remarkably well preserved, though the precious relics housed inside the tombs were looted by the Japanese sometime in the early 20 th century.

Back along the mountain road towards Kaesong is the solitary tomb of King Wanggon . Originally built in the 10 th century, King Wanggon’s tomb was badly damaged during the Japanese occupation of Korea, and the present tomb has been greatly restored. 

The statues here look noticeably smoother and less aged than at the tomb of King Kongmin, and stand at the end of a path marked by a traditional Korean gate.

Visiting the North Korean Side of the DMZ

After the appetiser of the tombs it’s on to the day’s meaty main course. Visiting the Demilitarised Zone from the northern side of the Korean border is a highlight of any visit to North Korea. Having visited the DMZ in South Korea , it’s a very different experience in the DPRK.

We drive back along the highway, past Kaesong, until we reach the approach to the entrance of the DMZ, a large gate painted in army camouflage green.  In front of us are four busloads of Chinese tourists. 

A unit of elite military officers flank the vehicles, and though the atmosphere is still pretty calm, it feels a little more serious.

Now inside the DMZ our first stop is the gift shop. Everything from hand printed posters, ginseng soap and even cans of Coca-Cola are for sale. The huge throng of Chinese tourists race around the shop as if they’re doing a weekly shop. 

The signed Armistice Agreement that ended the Korean War and Kim Il-sung’s final signature carved into stone on the northern side of the DMZ

Soon, the North Korean army officer acting as our collective guide is ready to begin and we’re led through to a connecting room. Here he gives an incredibly fast synopsis of the division of the Korean Peninsula. He speaks so quickly that our guide can barely keep up with him to translate. 

Predictably, the North Korean take on the Korean War and the subsequent creation of the DMZ is entirely different to that taught elsewhere. The general gist is that the DPRK were and continue to be blameless victims of American imperialist aggression. 

Each time that it’s mentioned, by our guides or the Army officer, the country on the south side of the border is not called South Korea but always referred to as “the American side”.

Before reaching the Joint Security Area at the centre of the DMZ we stop at the Armistice Talks Hall and the North Korea Peace Museum . 

The Armistice Talks Hall is a small room where initial meetings to attempt to end the Korean War began between North Korea and the United States Army in 1951. The discussions proved fruitless, and the war continued for another two years until  an armistice was reached in 1953 . 

That armistice was signed in the building next door, now called The North Korea Peace Museum. The agreements signed by both sides in 1953 remain on display on one side of the room. 

Our guide points out the United Nations flag that still stands on one of the tables. She says that the Americans were so ashamed of their defeat in the Korean War that they preferred to hide behind the flag of the United Nations, rather than use their own. 

As we wait to reboard our buses, the North Korean army officer leading the tour wanders over to us. He clearly knows our guides from their repeated visits to the DMZ. With a firm handshake and a broad smile he welcomes us to the DMZ.

He then jumps in our small van for the short drive towards the JSA. With a mischievous smile he says in Korean “You know, your country was on the other side during the Korean War?” This isn’t really what you want to hear from a North Korean army officer whilst inside the DMZ. After a dramatic pause he adds with a grin “But you are here now as friends of the DPRK, so everything is okay.”

We park up alongside the Chinese tourists at the rear of Panmon Hall , the main building on the north side of the JSA. It’s a peculiar feeling being back in such a strange place. 

The DMZ’s deadly reputation remains at odds with the manicured gardens and plants that surround both sides of the rather basic utilitarian huts that straddle the Korean border.

As we approach the front of Panmon Hall we’re met by an unexpected sight. A group of tourists stand on the viewing platform at the top of Peace Hall on the southern side of the border. 

Our guides tell us that it’s incredibly rare to see visitors on the south side of the border. Despite the tourists on the south side, there are no South Korean officers present on the opposite side of the border.

The sight of tourists across the divide causes quite a stir; our two guides can barely contain their excitement, and the army officers around us are clearly surprised. Once we’re inside Panmon Hall they pass a pair of binoculars around to catch a glimpse of who is watching us on the other side of the Military Demarcation Line.

By the time we reach the viewing area on the top floor of Panmon Hall the tourists over the way have been ushered back inside. Three North Korean guards stand in front of the door to one of the UN huts that sits over the borderline, and we’re not offered the chance to step inside.

Our new friend the North Korean army officer returns and asks if we hope to see a unified Korea. There’s only one possible answer given the circumstances. He declares that the unification of Korea is the dream of all Korean people and one that Kim Jong-un is working hard to achieve. 

With that we’re ushered back towards our minivan. We say goodbye to the army officer and drive off for a lunch of ginseng chicken in a restaurant that was once the base for Polish and Czech officers stationed in the DMZ as part of the  Neutral Nations Supervisory Committee . On a list of surreal moments during this whole trip to North Korea, eating chicken in the DMZ is one of the most bizarre.

Geting a Glimpse of the 'Real' North Korea

With the ginseng chicken polished off, we’re on to our next stop of the day. We drive for around an hour through some of the most remote parts of the North Korean countryside to reach our next stop, the Concrete Wall. It’s a fascinating and eye-opening ride but sadly taking photos out the window is not allowed.

We drive along a narrow country lane that winds past endless fields and tiny villages, places that you’d never imagine being allowed to see in North Korea. There is a constant flow of people on bicycle and on foot, all noticeably smartly dressed. Again it’s impossible to know where they’ve been or where they’re trying to get to.

As the only vehicle on the road this far into the countryside, we attract a lot of suspicious glances. Everyone on foot stops to stare in through the windows of our minivan as we pass, whilst those working in the fields look up to see who’s driving through. On more than one occasion a group of young children bow as our vehicle drives past. 

The obvious conclusion to jump to is that only people with power and authority usually drive this deep into the countryside. When they spot Western faces looking back at them we’re met by looks of disbelief.

Though there’s no sign of complete destitution or famine always associated with North Korea, there is no disguising the fact that this is clearly an incredibly tough life. 

Occasionally an ox trudges through a field pulling a plough, but most farm work is done by hand. People work in small groups or on their own, often knee deep and bare foot in muddy rice fields. 

Young army recruits also seem to be tasked with carrying out agricultural work. Many of the young soldiers in khaki uniforms look like they’ve only just crept into their teens. 

There are also young men in military uniforms on building sites, suggesting that despite the DPRK’s military first policy , the army are little more than a free source of labour. 

A number of times we drive pass cyclists with a dead pig tied to the back their bicycle. Toddlers play in the mud as their parents work in the fields. On a few occasions we pass women hand washing clothes in rivers and streams alongside the road. 

In a country that obsesses about how it’s portrayed to the outside world, it’s remarkable that we’ve been driven through a region so at odds with the image it tries to project of itself. 

The Concrete Wall

Eventually we arrive at a lookout point on the edge of the DMZ that faces South Korea. We’re met by an older officer in military uniform and led into what looks like a classroom with a large painting of a section of the DMZ on the front wall. 

The officer proceeds to give a short lecture about the Concrete Wall , a ten foot tall physical divide supposedly built by the Americans within the southern section of the DMZ. 

Said to span the entire length of the DMZ, we’re told that the southern side of the Concrete Wall is sloped and covered in grass, meaning it can only be seen from the north looking south. 

We’re taken outside to a viewing platform to see the Concrete Wall for ourselves. Several pairs of powerful antique binoculars are set up for us to peer through. A section of the wall is supposedly visible just beyond a small lake, and while there’s a tiny blur of grey that could pass as a patch of wall, it’s far from conclusive evidence. 

What is visible are a number of army checkpoints on both sides of the border, displaying their respective flags, as well as army officers and vehicles patrolling the southern side. 

It’s quite sad to see the two sides rather pointlessly facing each other off in this way. Otherwise the whole area seems oddly peaceful, just like any normal unspoilt rural landscape.

Koryo History Museum and Walking Through Kaesong

We drive back through the countryside and return to the outskirts of Kaesong. We’re given a quick tour of the Koryo History Museum , another UNESCO World Heritage site. The museum’s traditional 17 th century buildings were once the Sungyun Academy, dedicated to Confucian studies during the Koryo era.

The museum’s collection features an assorted number of artifacts and displays related to life during the Koryo Dynasty in Korea. 

With a typically North Korean approach to historical accuracy, our guide points to one display that confidently declares that Koreans invented gunpowder. 

We return to the centre of Kaesong and end the day with a short stroll in the late afternoon sun towards our restaurant.

We wander along a main road lined with traditional hanok houses, clearly one of the areas of Kaesong that came through the war relatively unscathed.

At either end of the street is a propaganda poster glorifying the military and a collection of mosaic murals, each depicting the now familiar sights of Mount Paektu and Kim Il-sung’s birthplace. 

Day 5 in the DPRK: Back to Pyongyang

Pakyon waterfall.

The next day we make the return trip from Kaesong to Pyongyang. The journey features a few detours and much more exposure to North Korea’s fascinating countryside. 

The first stop of the day is Pakyon Waterfall . Hidden inside a thick forest of fir trees, the towering thirty-seven metre high waterfall dives into a small crystal clear lake at the bottom a cliff. 

Huge ancient Chinese characters are etched into the cliff face all around the waterfall, dating from a time before the modern Korean alphabet came in to common use. It’s a genuinely beautiful part of the world, and a beauty not commonly associated with North Korea. 

Our visit is the first time that our younger guide has been to Pakyon, and she’s unable to hide her excitement, running ahead of the rest of us to take selfies in front of the waterfall. The other guide shows us a video on her phone from when she and her husband brought their son here last year. 

A Stop Off in Sariwon

From here we head back on the bumpy road, where we spend much of the day. It takes around two hours to reach the city of Sariwon . After a power cut affected lunch at the March 8 th hotel, we’re given a tour around the city’s agricultural university.

The entertaining vice principal of the university does his best to liven up what is undeniably a dry subject. He’s clearly quite smitten by our guides, which is more entertaining than the plastic models of giant sweet potatoes, tubs full of soil and numerous portraits of Kim Il-sung stood in fields. 

The visit makes a drastic improvement just as we make our way towards the exit. In two days’ time it will be April 15 th , a national holiday to commemorate Kim Il-sung’s birthday. 

Known as  the Day of the Sun , this is one of the most important days in the calendar in North Korea. Various events take place to celebrate the day throughout the country, including sporting competitions. 

As we make our way out of the agricultural university, two tug of war teams are preparing to tussle in front of the main entrance. They’re practicing for the main event which will take place on the Day of the Sun. 

A team in yellow are from the agricultural university, whilst a team in blue represent a neighbouring rival university. There’s a big crowd gathered round in anticipation, and the vice principal, keen for us to see the teams in action, instructs them to get on with it. 

The crowd and the two teams are slightly baffled by the sight of a couple of Western faces watching on, but spirits are high. Beneath a slogan that reads “Following the Marshall Forever”, the team from the neighbouring university wins the best-of-three practice session 2-0.

Sariwon Cooperative Farm

From here we drive to the other side of the city where the agricultural theme continues with a visit to a cooperative farm. From a viewpoint that overlooks the farm we can see neat rows of traditional farmer’s houses and well cultivated fields. 

A local guide tells us that this is all down to the wisdom of Kim Jong-il who gave instructions for the best use of the land when he visited the city in the late 1990s.

We’re then taken to see what we’re told is a typical farmer’s house. We’re met at the front door by the home owner, a young woman whose relatives disappear through the back door as we enter.  

On the wall in the front room are photos from her wedding day and of her graduation ceremony from a military academy in Pyongyang. A framed photograph of the whole family with Kim Jong-il in front of the house hangs alongside the official portraits of the two Kims. 

A cooperative farm in Sariwon, and the interior of a farmers house.

From Sariwon we continue north to Pyongyang via the West Sea Barrage near the city of Nampo. It’s a couple of hours’ drive through more of the remote North Korean countryside. 

Much of the journey passes along dusty roads through the now familiar sights of threadbare fields farmed by hand, the occasional ox and plough and young army officers toiling with shovels. 

One section of the journey passes through a long stretch of genuinely beautiful scenery. Narrow roads snake around the mountainsides through uninhabited countryside framed by fir trees. 

An unmanned checkpoint blocking the road is a reminder of the reality of where we are, our driver having to get out and shove it to one side to get past. 

The road rises as we eventually approach the West Sea Barrage with wide sweeping views over the sea. The roads leading up to the West Sea Barrage is heavily industrial and much more reflective of North Korea. 

We pass trucks piled high with weary workers and lorries hauling goods from the ships docked nearby. The military presence is high; our driver’s patience is well and truly tested by the time we reach the fourth manned checkpoint in less than 100 metres.

The West Sea Barrage

A visit to a barrage probably wouldn’t feature on many holiday itineraries, but this is North Korea, where epic building projects are milked for political and propaganda purposes. 

Given the financial and logistical constraints that they face from the outset, a project like this is a minor miracle.

The West Sea Barrage and inside the barrage’s visitor centre

The West Sea Barrage separates the West Sea from the Taedong River, which continues from here all the way to Pyongyang and way beyond. The barrage separates the sea water with the river’s fresh water, whilst still allowing ships to pass.  

Eight kilometres in length, the barrage took five years to build and has become an iconic symbol in North Korea. A visitor centre overlooks the barrage, where a typically histrionic video details the building of the dam as a superhuman achievement only possible here under the guidance of the Supreme Leaders.

Afterwards it’s a straightforward journey back to Pyongyang, passing through Nampo, a bustling port city bathed in almost complete darkness now that night has arrived. 

Our younger guide doses off in the back of our minivan as we travel along the Youth Hero Highway. The other guide surprises us by apologising for the poor condition of the highways in the DPRK, an unexpected admission of imperfection that she blames on economic sanctions.  

She then asks how the outside world viewed  Kim Jong-un’s recent summits with President Trump . Diplomatically, we say that Kim came across as a statesman, and in a manner that made him appear on an equal footing to the President of the United States. 

When pressed further, we add that Kim and the North Korean delegation showed that they wanted to achieve peace in the region and with the United States. 

Our guide becomes visibly emotional at hearing a positive answer. Our conversation is cut short by another checkpoint which our guide has to get out and negotiate. As we roll back in to Pyongyang, she thanks us for our answers, and adds that she hopes the unfair sanctions against the DPRK will soon be lifted.

Day 6 in North Korea: Pyongyang

Kumsusan palace of the sun.

It’s Sunday in Pyongyang and the day that we visit Kumsusan Palace of the Sun . Once the official residence of Kim Il-sung, today it is  where his body lies in state , along with the body of his son and successor, Kim Jong-il. 

The most sacrosanct place in North Korea, visiting the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun is serious and odd in equal measure.

It’s clear from the way that everybody is dressed in the lobby of the Yanggakdo Hotel that the Palace of the Sun is on the agenda for almost all of the tourists in Pyongyang. Visitors are expected to dress smartly when visiting the Kim’s mausoleum. All of the tourists in the hotel lobby are smartly, if awkwardly, dressed.

It’s around a half an hour drive from the hotel to the Palace of the Sun. The complex is staggering in size, and the whole visit is carried out with a military efficiency. Entrance is staggered by tour group. 

All possessions are left in a cloakroom and once past the metal scanners and body searches, a series of painfully slow travellators creep along a massive corridor towards the eternal leaders.

Framed photos of both Kims performing  on-the-spot guidance  line the walls beside the lurching travellators. Our guide explains that we’ll soon enter a room and bow in front of statues of the leaders. 

We duly arrive, and the room is gigantic. Lit by seven colossal chandeliers, every surface is marble. The room is completely empty except for the enormous waxwork models of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. They’re flanked by the flags of the DPRK and the Korean Workers Party. A line in the marble floor marks the bowing point.

From here we’re ushered into a staggeringly palatial lobby. Stern faced security guards in military uniform watch over everyone. A lift takes up to the next floor, where we follow our guides along a series of gleaming marble corridors to the outer entrance to Kim Il-sung’s mausoleum. 

Our guide explains the protocol; we’re to bow once at Kim il-sung’s feet, and as we walk around the coffin, again on the left side and a third time on the right hand side of the Eternal President’s body. 

The huge square room is bathed in a deep red light, resembling an enormous photographic darkroom. Kim Il-sung’s embalmed body lies at the centre, draped in the flag of the Workers Party of Korea. We queue in a group of four and bow in unison as required when it’s our turn.

We then follow into an adjacent room filled with a multitude of honours, medals and titles awarded to Kim Il-sung during his lifetime at home and abroad. 

There are dozens of domestic honours, seemingly given for the spurious reasons; many commemorate various anniversaries of the ending of the Korean War. One award is for the completion of the construction of a motorway.

The foreign honours and titles are bestowed by countries with an equally questionable approach to democracy as the DPRK. There are honorary doctorates and keys to various cities from countries such as Cambodia, Mongolia, Laos and Cuba as well as several former Soviet countries. 

All are watched over by framed pictures of Kim Il-sung greeting other heads of state, such as Colonel Gaddafi , Chairman Mao and  Robert Mugabe .

We then repeat the entire process one floor below for Kim Jong-il. His body lies alone in a red-lit room identical to his father’s. We bow at his feet and at his sides and then file out to see his collection of medals and honours, which are all identical to his father’s.

The final section of the Palace of the Sun is dedicated to the Kim’s modes of transport. It’s a rather unusual end to a very surreal morning. Inside huge rooms of more polished marble are a collection of a few of the Kim’s various vehicles. Hung on the walls of each room are framed photos of the Kim’s alongside their vehicles.

The first room features Kim Il-sung’s enormous green bullet proof train carriage. Both Kims  preferred to travel by train , especially Kim Jong-il who hated flying. 

On the wall is an electronic map showing every journey that Kim Il-sung took during his lifetime within the DPRK and overseas. The number of countries visited and the total distance travelled in kilometres have all been tallied up. 

In the next palatial room is Kim Il-sung’s old black Mercedes, so clean it practically sparkles beneath the lights. In the following rooms are Kim Jong-il’s rides, starting with his own personal bullet proof train carriage and electronic map. 

Kim Jong-il  died of a heart attack in his train carriage  in December 2011, which has been left supposedly as it was when he died, with his paperwork neatly stacked next to an Apple MacBook. 

Completing the surreal experience are the final two rooms. The first features Kim Jong-il’s own black Mercedes parked opposite his golf buggy. In the centre of the second room is the Dear Leader’s personal boat, the size of a small Navy ship. 

As we trundle back towards the exit on the travellators, large groups of Koreans are making their way in to pay their respects. The men are dressed in their best suits, whilst the women are all in beautifully coloured national dress. 

We’re taken outside to take photos in the palace’s garden. On the front of the building are the two iconic portraits of the two men who lay at rest inside.

The Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery

In keeping with the theme for the morning, next we drive to the Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery , just a short distance away. Set in a hill high above Pyongyang, the cemetery is reserved for those credited with playing a decisive role in fighting the Japanese occupation of Korea. 

The cemetery is typically grandiose in style; graves are set in rows of five, each marked by a solid bronze bust. The most important grave in the cemetery, at the centre of the graveyard’s main platform is that of Kim Jong-suk.

As the second wife of Kim Il-sung, the mother of Kim Jong-il and the grandmother of Kim Jong-un,  her personal story has been modified and exaggerated  to fit the desired narrative of the North Korean regime. Known in the DPRK as the Mother of Korea, we dutifully bow in front of her bust.

Ten Pin Bowling in Pyongyang

After a pretty heavy morning we head back the hotel for a few hours to relax. In the late afternoon we head back out into Pyongyang. In the strong afternoon sunshine we’re taken for a walk over the Okryu Bridge across the Taedong River. It’s the day before the Day of the Sun, and the centre of Pyongyang is busy with people.

Just next to Okryu bridge on the eastern side of the river is Golden Lane Bowling Alley . Bowling in Pyongyang is a common and popular stop on most tourist itineraries. After the intensity of the morning’s activities, it’s a nice way to finish off the day.

Golden Lane Bowling Alley is fairly quiet when we arrive. A few men play on one of the pool tables, and only a few of the twenty or so lanes are in use. At the far end a couple of pros have a lane apiece.  

Despite insisting that they’re not very good at bowling we manage to convince our guides to join us for a game. It soon becomes apparent that they probably bring tour groups here pretty frequently as they both win with ease, which they modestly put down to luck. 

Afterwards we cross town for another humongous meal at one of the tourist approved restaurants before returning to the Yanggakdo Hotel. 

Day 7: Celebrating the Day of the Sun in Pyongyang

Kimilsunglia and kimjongilia exhibition hall.

Some of Pyongyang’s main highlights have been saved for our final full day in the capital. Today is  the Day of the Sun , the birthday of Kim Il-sung and a national holiday. 

Appropriately it’s a gloriously sunny day. We spend the whole morning in eastern Pyongyang, beginning with the Kimilsungia and Kimjongilia Exhibition Hall . 

On the banks of the Taedong River, the exhibition hall, is dedicated exclusively for the display of the two flowers named after Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. 

Both flowers have become iconic symbols in North Korea; huge paintings of the  kimilsunglia  and  kimjongilia  flowers are displayed alongside main roads throughout Pyongyang and other cities in North Korea.

Though officially a holiday, it becomes clear that this isn’t a typical day off, but a time to publicly commemorate the Supreme Leader. 

Crowds of people swarm the exhibition hall to see the multitude of Kimilsunglia flower displays laid out over two floors. Each display has been organised by governmental departments, ministries and various other branches of the North Korean state. 

At the centre of each display, surrounded by a bounty of purple Kimilsunglia flowers, is always a reference to Kim il-Sung, usually a typically kind painted portrait or a model of his supposed birthplace in Mangongdae.  

Another recurring theme in the displays are models of some of Pyongyang’s most famous landmarks, such as the Palace of the Sun or the Juche Tower, expertly carved out of blocks of polystyrene. 

Whether it’s down to free choice or duty, the hall is swelling with people by the time we leave. Back outside in the sunshine our guide buys us all North Korean made ice-creams as the queue to see the Kimilsunglias stretches out into the street.

The Workers Party Foundation Monument

Just a few streets away is one of Pyongyang’s most recognisable landmarks, the Workers Party Foundation Monument . The monument was built to mark the 50 th anniversary of the founding of the Workers Party of Korea. 

Symbolically, there is a clear unobstructed view from the monument to the statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il on Mansudae Hill directly across the Taedong River.

The monument consists of three towering granite hands, each holding aloft the symbols of the Workers Party of Korea; the hammer represents the worker, the sickle denotes the farmer and a calligraphy brush for the intellectuals. 

As part of the Day of the Sun celebrations, singers, musicians and dancers all perform in front of the Party Monument. Hundreds of people have gathered to watch, all dressed in their very best clothes.

Taking in the Views of Pyongyang From the Juche Tower

Next we drive the short distance to the Juche Tower , named after the  ideology created by Kim Il-sung  to promoted the idea of sustainability through personal self-reliance. Constructed to honour Kim Il-sung’s 70 th birthday, the central spire is built from 25,550 granite blocks, one for each day of Kim Il-sung’s life up to that point.

At the base of the tower are a number of plaques dedicated by sympathetic organisations from all over the world in support of juche.

For visitors, the Juche Tower’s most impressive attribute is the view of Pyongyang from the viewing platform just beneath the mighty red flame at the very top. 

On stepping out of the lift you’re instantly met by a spectacular 360 degree view of the whole city, offering an incredible panorama of Pyongyang and the city’s main landmarks.

Facing western Pyongyang, the Juche Tower looks out across Kim Il-sung Square on the opposite side of the Taedong River. In the near distance, towering over the city, is the sci-fi pyramid-like structure of the Ryugyong Hotel. 

The tallest building in North Korea, the Ryugyong Hotel also holds the title of the tallest unoccupied building in the world . Though construction began in 1987, North Korea’s economy has never been strong enough to finish the job, and it is yet to be completed.

As well as the main sights, the view from the top of the Juche Towers also allows the chance to peer in at some of the parts of the city that aren’t on the tourist route, especially the towers blocks in the suburbs on lesser visited eastern side of Pyongyang.  

Mixing With the Locals at Moranbong Park

After lunch we cross back over the river for a walk through Moranbong Park . As with a ride on the Pyongyang Metro, a stroll through Moranbong Park is included in most visits to Pyongyang, offering the chance to rub shoulders with regular North Korean citizens. 

Reflecting the spirit of the national holiday, there is a genuine party atmosphere in the park. The people here are clearly a part of North Korean’s elite. 

Families and friends gather for barbecues washed down with plenty of soju, whilst some people sing along to the portable karaoke machines that they’ve brought with them for the day.

The largest crowd is underneath a pavilion in the heart of the park. A huge group of people have gathered to dance, and they seem to like the attention of the groups of Western tourists that are watching on. 

As we watch the crowd dance a group of North Korean teenage girls giggle nervously as they surreptitiously sneak a photograph of themselves next to us.

An Orchestral Performance at Moranbong Theatre

We leave the dancing behind and stroll across the park for another of the trip’s more unexpected moments, an orchestral performance at the Moranbong Theatre . 

The theatre is relatively modest in size but typically ornate. A gleaming white exterior is matched by the chandeliers and marble of the lobby.

The orchestral performance is wonderful, with an extremely talented group of musicians led by a rotating group of conductors.

As tourists we weren’t given any indication as to who the orchestra are or of any of the songs that they performed. Given that it’s Kim Il-sung’s birthday, and that all art in North Korea serves a political purpose, it’s safe to assume that the concert has a political message.

Watching a Mass Dance Outside the Kim Il-sung Stadium

The holiday celebrations continue after the show outside the Kim il-Sung Stadium, where hundreds of students have gathered to take part in a mass dance . 

In front of a growing number of western and Chinese tourists, beautifully dressed young couples dance to traditional North Korean songs in an open space opposite the Arch of Triumph. 

It’s a fascinating glimpse into the highly choreographed and structured way of life in North Korea. Under the sweltering afternoon sun, the couples dance along to several different songs. 

A few of the Westerners join in and copy the dances, which appears a little disrespectful, though our guide says that each time this happens it brings joy to the North Koreans.

With a little time to spare we ask to return to Kim Il-sung Square to take a few photos now that the sun is out. Despite being Kim Il-sung’s birthday the square is again deserted, apart from the young boy learning to rollerblade. 

We wander back towards the river and admire the Juche Tower opposite, before ending the day with a feast of barbecued duck.

Day 8 in North Korea: Pyongyang to Myohyangsan

Today we drive north towards Myohyangsan , a beautiful mountainous region around 100 miles north of Pyongyang. 

Just as with the journey to Kaesong it’s noticeable how suddenly Pyongyang comes to an abrupt end the moment you pass the edge of the city. In an instant the housing blocks disappear, replaced by barren brown fields.

The Paeksong Revolutionary Site

Our journey north is broken up with a couple of stops on the way. Firstly we visit the Paeksong Revolutionary Site , just outside the city of Pyongsong. 

Tucked away under a thick forest of fir trees and surrounded by low mountains, Paeksong Revolution Site is supposedly where the Supreme Leader relocated the students of the Kim Il-sung University during the Korean War in order to study away from the fighting.

A statue of the Supreme Leader stands at the entrance and is joined by several murals that portray his time spent amongst the students. A local guide shows us around the site, featuring a number of old yet pristine huts and buildings where Kim Il-sung is said to have met and spoken with students hiding out here during the war. 

Our guide explains how Kim Il-sung personally chose this site as a safe place for the students to continue their learning during the war, and how he visited them here many times, even as the ground shook as American planes bombed the surrounding area. 

After an early lunch in an otherwise empty hotel restaurant in Pyongsong we continue north. The scenery and landscape on the journey towards Myohyangsan is identical to that of the road that led south to Kaesong. 

People wander along the mangled highway and across the endless beige fields, and a steady slew of mountain peaks gather in the far distance.

The Paeksang Pavilion

We eventually arrive in the city of Anju . Anju resembles most of the other cities that we’ve seen, yet it’s the least polished we’ve passed through so far. 

The housing blocks are a lot rougher around the edges and the main road is little more than rubble. As we drive past a young girl of around five years old collects water from a well, carrying two buckets on a pole across her shoulders.

We’re here to visit the Paeksang Pavillion , which once served as a command and lookout post as part of a larger fortress. Destroyed during the Korean War, it was rebuilt, we are told, under the instruction of Kim Il-sung. 

Located in a picturesque park, the new pavilion, colourfully recast in concrete, has views across the city and surrounding fields. 

As we wander through the pavilion’s well tendered gardens back towards our minivan, a group of young children see us through the trees and begin to giggle at the presumably alien sight of a couple of Westerners. 

When they see that they’ve been spotted, they stand in a line and bow at us as we give them a wave.  As we drive past them a few moments later they bow once more.

Checking In to the Hyangsan Hotel

From Anju it takes just under two hours to reach the Hyangsan Hotel in Myohyangsan, our base for one night. Considered to be the best hotel in the DPRK (amongst a surprisingly high number of luxury hotels in North Korea ) the Hyangsan Hotel is unreal. So at odds with everything around it, the Stalinist pyramid situated at the foot of the Myohyangsan mountain range resembles a Bond villain’s lair. 

The interior is just as spectacular. Recently refurbished to an incredibly high standard, the Hyangsan Hotel is loaded with amenities, from multiple restaurants, a swimming pool, bars, a gym, snooker and pool tables and even its own theatre. 

More tour groups arrive later in the day, but when we arrive the hotel is virtually empty, with just one Receptionist on the front desk playing solitaire on her computer. 

Day 9 in the DPRK: Myohyangsan

Our final full day in North Korea is spent in Myohyangsan , the mountainous region also called Mount Myohyang. Myohyangsan means “mystery fragrance” on account of the abundance and variety of flowers and trees that grow here.

Pohyon Temple

We start the day at Pohyon Temple , just a few minutes’ drive from the Hyangsan hotel. Originally founded in the 11 th century, most of the temple buildings were restored following the Korean War. 

Ornate traditional Korean temple buildings pavilions and stone pagodas sit amongst manicured grounds against the beautiful backdrop of the green mountains. 

It’s interesting to see a Buddhist temple in a country where theology has been virtually wiped out and replaced with a compulsory ideology. 

A man that we’re told is a Buddhist monk – who clearly isn’t a Buddhist monk at all – nervously loiters inside one of the temple’s shrines in an attempt to add a touch of authenticity. 

Around the temple it’s noticeable how there is nobody praying to the deities and there are no offerings left in the shrines as you would expect to see in a Buddhist temple in Asia. 

Instead the temple’s guide tells us of the history of the site, the damage caused by the American aggressors and how Kim Il-sung inspired the temple’s restoration.

A Tour of the International Friendship Exhibition

From Pohyon Temple it’s another short drive to the International Friendship Exhibition . 

Sat in a beautiful valley alongside a trickling river, the International Friendship Exhibition houses gifts donated to Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il by foreign governments and dignitaries during their lifetimes. 

The exhibition comprises two buildings, one for each leader. Due to time constraints and the number of visitors (several coachloads of Chinese tourists arrive just as we do) we only get to see a section of Kim Jong-il’s collection of gifts.

The International Friendship Exhibition is designed and built in the same style as the Palace of the Sun or the Victorious Liberation Fatherland Museum. Almost oppressively grand, the grey marble corridors lead to an endless warren of rooms filled with gifts given to the Dear Leader. 

The museum is split into sections by gifts from nations of each continent splintering off a main hall, which is saved for the end of the tour.

The guide explains that there is too much in the exhibition to see in one visit. As we’ve been paired up with another group from Europe, we’re taken in to see the Kim Jong-il’s gifts from European countries. The European section starts with gifts from Russia, historically one of the DPRK’s main allies. 

On first sight, the enormous collection is incredibly impressive. Cabinets line each room from floor to ceiling filled with a huge variety of gifts. The Russians seem particularly generous, filling three rooms with all sorts of gifts. 

The presents vary, from vases, tea sets, commemorative plates, books, rifles, stuffed bears, and a variety of paintings, mostly of Kim Jong-il. 

Though framed as a testament to the world’s love and admiration of the two leaders, the reality of the International Friendship Exhibition soon becomes clear. Beyond the collection from Russia, the standard of gifts from non-allied European nations drops rapidly. 

Alongside plates and paintings from obscure left-wing political parties from countries such as Austria and Portugal is a mug commemorating the Miner’s Strike from the UK. The collection begins to look like the world’s largest charity shop. 

Most of the gifts here aren’t gifts at all, but attempts to curry favour with the regime. Donations from the handful of shipping and tourist companies that have managed to form business links with North Korea reveals the true purpose of many of the gifts. 

Instead they’re a requirement in order to grease the wheels of business. Many of the rest are clearly fairly mundane diplomatic gifts typical of trips abroad by mid-ranking dignitaries.

At the end of the tour of the European section we’re taken through to the main hall. Another enormous statue of Kim Jong-il waits, around 20 feet tall and cast in white marble, at which our guides bow at the feet. 

In this room are gifts from high-profile diplomatic visitors; a porcelain globe surrounded by doves  donated by Billy Graham , a football signed by Pele from Brazil’s sports minister and a basketball signed by Michael Jordan  given by Madeline Albright  are the headline items on display.

A Hike on Mount Myohyang

Following lunch back at the hotel we spend the afternoon in the beautiful Myohyangsan mountain range . 

A short drive leads us to the starting point of a hiking path that has been etched out of the mountainside. The path snakes and climbs around and over the rocky mountain, a single rope handrail guiding the way.

As the trail climbs there are captivating views of the surrounding mountains and the narrow river that weaves through the valley. The picturesque panoramas are complimented by a pavilion and a number of wobbly suspension bridges. 

That our guides are clambering up the hazardous path in suit skirts and high heels is a bit of a concern – one rolled ankle and we’re in a whole heap of trouble – but they both seem happy to lead the way.

In a country where nowhere is out of reach for the regime, even the spectacular beauty of the mountains are considered fair game. 

Etched into the mountainsides along the trail are various quotes from Kim Il-sung along with other slogans. The two Korean characters for the word ‘juche’ are carved into the highest point of the mountainside, filled in with red paint. 

Another slogan quotes Kim Il-sung – “the beauty of Myohyangsan is the best in the world” – whilst on a huge rock along the path are the lyrics to  The Song of General Kim Il-sung . 

A little further on are the lyrics to another song which, according to our guide, was written by Kim Jong-il when he was a child. It’s a staggering example of the lengths that the regime has gone to in order to be omnipresent. 

We follow the path for as long as our lungs can manage. Mindful of the time – we’re driving back to Pyongyang that night- and our guide’s unsuitable footwear, we stop before reaching the end of the trail. After pausing to admire the undeniable beauty that surrounds Myohyangsan once more we make the descent back towards our waiting driver.

Returning to Pyongyang

Once back in Pyongyang – a city that has become oddly familiar over the course of our 10 days in North Korea – we check back into the Yanggakdo Hotel. We head back out to Tongil Street in the south of the city for one final enormous dinner with our guides and driver. 

At the end of the meal we’re treated to one more performance; a group of singers suddenly enter the room and a karaoke machine appears. We’re given a bouquet of plastic flowers as the group belts out a medley of North Korean pop songs.

Day 10 - Departing Pyongyang for Beijing

On the final day we head to the airport for the early flight to Beijing. The sky is a thick grey and the rain is falling, just as it had been on the day we arrived. 

Driving across Pyongyang to the airport, the city no longer feels intimidating and drab but familiar and, as odd as it may sound, even a bit normal.

Checking in at the airport is a relatively straightforward process. We bid a fond farewell to our driver and then to our two guides, who have been the perfect hosts and an integral part of our whole trip. They stay behind to wave us off all the way through the security and customs checks until we’re through to departures.

The departure board shows that there are only three scheduled flights for the day, and one of those has already left to Shanghai. The next flight is ours, and right on schedule we’re on our way with Air Koryo back to Beijing. 

Reflecting on Our 10 Days in North Korea

Without a doubt North Korea has been the most unique country that we’ve ever visited. 

As was expected, we came away from our North Korea tour with many more questions than answers. Being in and amongst North Korea’s sensationalist monuments, inescapable propaganda and invented historical narrative is beyond surreal. It can often become suffocating too, even for visitors who only get the tiniest taste of it.

Yet surprisingly there can also be times when you need to remind yourself of exactly where you are. It’s easy to get swept up by the novelty of finding yourself amongst such iconic landmarks and locations. 

Along with the genuine beauty of much of the countryside and the warmth and friendliness of the guides, it’s sometimes easy to forget that this is a country run by a totalitarian regime with an appalling human rights record.

Should You Visit North Korea?

If you want to, then yes. It is repeatedly said that visiting North Korea is unethical and that visiting tourists are simply lining the pockets of a cruel regime. 

The crimes of the regime certainly can’t be denied, yet there are  plenty of other nations with deplorable human rights records that many people are happy to ignore  when booking a holiday.

Asia is a fascinating continent, where geopolitical tension is so heavy it almost feels tangible, and North Korea is very much at the forefront of the region’s politics. 

Spending ten days in North Korea might be too many for some, and shorter tours are available. Yet if you want to get a glimpse of one of the most intriguing countries in one of the world’s most captivating and complicated continents then you should visit North Korea. 

For us, having been fascinated by North Korea for a number of years, visiting the DPRK was an itch that needed to be scratched.

Explore Even More of Asia:

• Things to know before visiting North Korea
• The best books about North Korea
• Visiting the DMZ from both sides of the Korean border
• Five must-see Korean films
• Discover Jeju, South Korea’s tropical paradise
• How to spend 48 hours in Tokyo
• The complete four day Bangkok itinerary 

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Our Top 5 Best Places To Visit In North Korea:

Exploring the enigmatic: top 5 must-visit places in north korea.

Welcome to North Korea, a land of mystery and intrigue that beckons the curious traveler. While much of the country remains hidden from the world, there are remarkable destinations that offer a glimpse into its unique culture and history. Let’s uncover the 5 best places to visit in North Korea, each offering a distinctive facet of this enigmatic nation.

Map of North Korea:

Map Showing North Korea Location in Asia:

Countries Bordering North Korea:

North Korea is bordered by  China and Russia  to the north and by the Republic of Korea (South Korea) to the south. To the east is the Sea of Japan and to the west is the Yellow Sea . The national capital, P’yŏngyang, is a major industrial and transport centre near the west coast: 

• Republic of Korea (South Korea)
• Sea of Japan

1. Pyongyang: The Capital’s Grandeur

Pyongyang, the capital city, is a mix of grand architecture, impressive monuments, and glimpses of daily life. Marvel at the Juche Tower, an iconic symbol of self-reliance, and explore Kim Il-sung Square, a sprawling plaza where parades and gatherings take place. The Mansu Hill Grand Monument, featuring enormous bronze statues of the country’s leaders, provides a striking visual spectacle.

2. Demilitarized Zone (DMZ): A Glimpse of Divided Realities

The DMZ, bordering North and South Korea, offers a surreal experience. Visit the Joint Security Area, where negotiations between the two countries take place. You’ll stand within meters of South Korean soldiers, a stark reminder of the region’s complex history and ongoing tensions.

3. Mount Kumgang: Nature’s Oasis

Escape to the serene beauty of Mount Kumgang, a picturesque mountain range with lush forests, tranquil lakes, and cascading waterfalls. The journey here takes you through scenic landscapes and provides a glimpse of North Korea’s natural charm.

4. Kaesong: Echoes of Tradition

Kaesong, a city steeped in history, offers a glimpse of traditional Korean culture. Explore the historic old town with its well-preserved architecture, visit the Koryo Museum to learn about the region’s heritage, and savor a traditional meal at a Korean restaurant. The city’s timeless charm offers a respite from the modern world.

5. Myohyangsan: Spiritual Retreat in Nature

Discover the spiritual side of North Korea amidst the Myohyangsan Mountains. The International Friendship Exhibition showcases an astonishing collection of gifts given to the country’s leaders. Delve into the serene surroundings of Pohyon Temple, surrounded by natural beauty and a sense of tranquility.

Did we mention the food? EAT!

Culinary Exploration in North Korea: A Taste of Unique Flavors

Embarking on a culinary journey through North Korea offers a chance to savor flavors that reflect the nation’s cultural identity.

North Korean cuisine is characterized by its simple yet distinctive dishes. You’ll find staples like rice, vegetables, and meats complemented by fermented flavors, creating a harmonious balance of taste.

Don’t miss out on “Kimchi,” a spicy and fermented cabbage dish that accompanies almost every meal. Indulge in “Naengmyeon,” cold buckwheat noodles often enjoyed during hot summer months. “Bibimbap,” a colorful rice bowl adorned with an array of vegetables and often a fried egg, showcases the art of presentation.

While dining in North Korea comes with its own set of cultural considerations, exploring its unique flavors offers a deeper understanding of the nation’s identity and traditions.

Essential Things to Know Before Traveling to North Korea:

Traveling to North Korea requires thorough preparation due to its unique political and cultural context. Here are essential things to know before embarking on a journey to this enigmatic nation:

1. Tour Operators and Guided Tours: Travel to North Korea is only possible through approved tour operators. These tours are typically organized with a set itinerary and strict guidelines. You will be accompanied by guides throughout your trip.

2. Restricted Travel: Tourists are usually limited to specific areas and sites approved by the government. Independent travel is not allowed, and movement is closely monitored.

3. Respect for Local Customs and Laws: North Korea has strict rules and customs that must be adhered to. It’s important to respect local regulations, guidelines from guides, and avoid any behavior that could be deemed disrespectful or offensive.

4. Photography Restrictions: Photography is heavily restricted in North Korea, and you should always ask for permission before taking photos, especially of military or sensitive areas. Your guides will inform you about places where photography is not allowed.

5. Political Sensitivity: Avoid discussing politics, sensitive topics, or making any negative comments about the government or leaders. Conversations with locals might be limited and monitored.

6. Cultural Sensitivity: Show respect for the government and leaders, as well as cultural symbols and monuments. Never show disrespect towards statues or images of leaders.

7. Limited Contact with Locals: Interactions with locals are often regulated and controlled. Engaging in conversation beyond approved topics might not be possible.

8. Communication: Internet access and communication with the outside world are usually restricted. International mobile networks might not work, and your communication might be monitored.

9. Currency and Cash: The local currency is the North Korean Won (KPW), and it’s advisable to bring cash in foreign currencies for personal expenses. Limited exchange opportunities might be available.

10. Health and Safety: Check the health advisories and vaccination requirements before your trip. North Korea has strict health regulations and quarantine procedures.

11. Itinerary and Sites: Your itinerary will be pre-arranged by the tour operator. You’ll likely visit government-approved sites, monuments, and attractions.

12. Independent Exploration: Independent exploration outside of the designated tour activities is generally not allowed. Staying with your group and following the tour’s schedule is important.

13. Travel Bans: Citizens of certain countries might face travel bans or restrictions to enter North Korea. Check the latest travel advisories from your government before planning your trip.

14. Responsible Travel: While in North Korea, be mindful of your impact on the environment and the local community. Follow local customs and guidelines to ensure a respectful visit.

15. Be Open-Minded: Traveling to North Korea is a unique and potentially challenging experience. Approach the journey with an open mind, curiosity, and an understanding of the complexities of the destination.

By thoroughly researching and understanding the rules and expectations, you can navigate your trip to North Korea in a respectful and responsible manner, embracing the opportunity to explore a country rarely visited by outsiders.

How to Get to North Korea:

Traveling to North Korea is unique and can only be done through approved tour operators. Here’s how the process generally works:

1. Choose a Tour Operator: Research and choose a reputable tour operator that offers guided tours to North Korea. These operators arrange all aspects of your trip, including visas, transportation, accommodation, and activities.

2. Book a Tour: Select a tour package that suits your interests and schedule. Most tours start from Beijing, China. Book your tour well in advance, as availability can be limited due to the strict regulations and limited number of tourists allowed.

3. Obtain a Visa: The tour operator will assist you in obtaining a visa for North Korea. This usually involves submitting your passport and necessary documents to the North Korean embassy in Beijing. The visa is typically issued as part of a group visa for your tour.

4. Travel to Beijing: You will need to make your way to Beijing, China, which serves as the gateway for most travelers entering North Korea. Plan your travel to arrive in Beijing a day or more before your tour begins.

5. Pre-Tour Briefing: Before your departure to North Korea, you’ll attend a pre-tour briefing organized by your tour operator. During this briefing, you’ll receive information about the trip, guidelines, and expectations.

6. Departure to North Korea: On the designated day, your tour group will depart from Beijing to North Korea. Flights are usually chartered, and you’ll be accompanied by guides from the tour operator throughout your journey.

7. Entry into North Korea: Upon arrival in North Korea, your tour guides will meet you at the airport. They will accompany you throughout your stay, ensuring you adhere to local regulations and guidelines.

8. Guided Tours and Activities: Your itinerary will include visits to government-approved sites and attractions. Your tour guides will lead you through these activities, and you’ll have limited independent movement.

9. Departure from North Korea: At the end of your tour, you’ll depart from North Korea and return to Beijing. Your tour guides will assist you with the departure process.

Important Considerations:

• Traveling to North Korea requires careful planning and adherence to local rules and regulations.
• Independent travel is not allowed, and you must stay with your tour group at all times.
• Photography is often restricted, so always ask for permission before taking photos.
• Internet access and communication with the outside world might be limited during your stay.

Due to the unique nature of travel to North Korea, it’s crucial to choose a reputable tour operator, closely follow their instructions, and approach your journey with respect for local customs and regulations.

How to Get Around North Korea:

Getting around North Korea is primarily organized by the approved tour operators who arrange guided tours for foreign visitors. Here’s how transportation works within the country:

1. Guided Tours: All travel within North Korea for foreign tourists is organized and managed by the tour operator. This includes transportation, accommodation, meals, and activities. You’ll have a designated tour guide or guides who accompany your group throughout your trip.

2. Group Transportation: Tour operators provide transportation for the tour group, which can include buses or vans, depending on the size of the group. These vehicles are typically used for traveling between cities and sites on the itinerary.

3. Domestic Flights: For longer distances, domestic flights might be included in your tour package. These flights are usually chartered and are part of the guided tour.

4. Subway and Public Transport: In Pyongyang, the capital city, there’s a subway system that you might get a chance to experience during guided tours. However, independent use of public transport is not allowed for tourists.

5. Restricted Movement: It’s important to note that movement within North Korea is restricted. Tourists are not allowed to venture outside of the designated areas, and independent travel or exploration is not permitted. Your movements will be closely supervised by your tour guides.

6. Photography Restrictions: Photography is often restricted, especially around military or sensitive areas. Always ask for permission before taking photos, and follow your guide’s instructions on where photography is allowed.

7. Guided Activities: Your tour itinerary will include visits to government-approved sites and attractions. These activities are organized and guided by your tour operator. It’s important to stick to the planned schedule and follow the instructions of your guides.

8. Respect Local Customs and Regulations: Respect for local customs, rules, and regulations is essential. Your tour guides will provide guidelines on appropriate behavior and conduct during your stay.

9. Communication: Internet access is limited for tourists, and communication with the outside world might be restricted during your stay. Keep this in mind and plan your communication accordingly.

10. Cultural Sensitivity: Be aware of the cultural sensitivities in North Korea. Show respect for the government, leaders, and cultural symbols, and avoid discussions on sensitive topics.

Remember that when visiting North Korea, your movement and activities will be tightly controlled by the tour operator and government authorities. It’s important to follow their instructions and adhere to local rules and regulations for a smooth and respectful travel experience.

FAQ – Our Top 5 Best Places To Visit In North Korea and Traveling to North Korea in General:

Frequently asked questions (faq) about traveling to north korea.

1. Can I travel independently to North Korea? No, independent travel to North Korea is not allowed. All foreign tourists must travel with an approved tour operator and be part of guided tours.

2. How can I visit North Korea? To visit North Korea, you must book a guided tour through an approved tour operator. These operators arrange all aspects of your trip, including visas, transportation, accommodation, and activities.

3. What’s the process for obtaining a visa? Your tour operator will assist you in obtaining a visa for North Korea. This usually involves submitting your passport and necessary documents to the North Korean embassy in Beijing, China.

4. Can I take photos in North Korea? Photography is restricted in North Korea, especially around military and sensitive areas. Always ask for permission before taking photos, and follow your guide’s instructions on where photography is allowed.

5. Can I communicate with the outside world while in North Korea? Internet access and communication with the outside world are limited for tourists. It’s best to plan your communication accordingly and be aware that your online activities might be monitored.

6. What are the cultural norms I should be aware of? Show respect for local customs, rules, and regulations. Avoid discussions on sensitive topics, show respect for the government and leaders, and adhere to the guidelines provided by your tour guides.

7. Can I move around independently in North Korea? Movement within North Korea is restricted. Tourists are not allowed to venture outside of the designated areas and must stay with their tour group at all times.

8. Are there any health concerns I should be aware of? Check health advisories and vaccination requirements before your trip. North Korea has strict health regulations and quarantine procedures.

9. Can I exchange money in North Korea? The local currency is the North Korean Won (KPW), and you can exchange money for personal expenses. However, exchange opportunities might be limited.

10. What are the accommodations like? Accommodations are usually arranged by the tour operator and can vary in quality. They might range from basic guesthouses to more comfortable hotels.

11. Can I visit the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone)? Yes, guided tours to the DMZ are possible. The tour will be organized by your tour operator and will include specific sites and activities.

12. What can I expect during the guided tours? Your tour itinerary will include visits to government-approved sites and attractions. Activities will be guided by your tour operator, and your movements will be supervised.

13. Is there a dress code I should follow? Dress modestly and appropriately, especially when visiting religious or cultural sites. Follow your guide’s advice on appropriate attire.

14. How safe is it to travel to North Korea? Safety is generally not a major concern for tourists. However, always follow the instructions of your tour guides, adhere to local regulations, and avoid engaging in any behavior that could be considered disrespectful or offensive.

15. Is it possible to visit North Korea from South Korea? While technically possible, the political situation between North and South Korea makes it highly complex and rare for tourists to travel between the two countries.

Traveling to North Korea is a unique and tightly regulated experience. To ensure a smooth and respectful trip, choose a reputable tour operator, follow their instructions, and approach the journey with an open mind and sensitivity to the cultural and political nuances of the region.

Our Top 5 Best Places To Visit In North Korea: FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Places to Visit in North Korea

1. What are the main attractions to visit in North Korea? North Korea offers a range of attractions, including Pyongyang’s iconic landmarks like the Juche Tower and Kim Il-sung Square, the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), Mount Kumgang’s natural beauty, and the historic city of Kaesong.

2. Can tourists visit the capital city, Pyongyang? Yes, tourists can visit Pyongyang, the capital city of North Korea. It’s a hub of grand monuments, modern architecture, and cultural sites.

3. Are visits to the DMZ possible for tourists? Yes, guided tours to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) are possible. This area serves as a border between North and South Korea, and tourists can witness the tense history of the region.

4. What natural attractions can tourists explore? Mount Kumgang, a mountain range renowned for its picturesque landscapes, waterfalls, and serene lakes, is a popular natural attraction in North Korea.

5. Can tourists visit historical sites and monuments? Yes, tourists can visit historical sites and monuments, including the Arch of Triumph, the Monument to Party Founding, and the International Friendship Exhibition.

6. Is it possible to experience local culture and traditions? While interactions with locals might be limited, tourists can gain insights into North Korean culture through guided activities, museum visits, and performances.

7. Are there restrictions on photography at tourist sites? Yes, there are photography restrictions in North Korea, especially in sensitive areas or around military installations. Always ask for permission before taking photos.

8. Can tourists explore religious sites? Yes, tourists can visit religious sites, such as the Juche Tower, which has ideological significance, and the Pohyon Temple in the Myohyangsan Mountains.

9. How can I learn about the history of North Korea? Visits to historical sites, museums, and monuments provide insights into North Korean history. However, keep in mind that the information provided might reflect the government’s perspective.

10. Can I interact with locals during my visit? Interactions with locals are usually controlled and monitored by tour guides. While limited, these interactions can provide a glimpse into daily life.

11. Are there unique cultural experiences for tourists? Tourists can enjoy cultural performances, visit traditional restaurants, and explore local markets to experience aspects of North Korean culture.

12. Can I explore Pyongyang’s modern architecture? Yes, Pyongyang boasts modern architecture, including the iconic Ryugyong Hotel and futuristic buildings that showcase the city’s modern development.

13. Are there restrictions on movement during tours? Yes, movement is restricted during guided tours. Tourists must adhere to the itinerary and stay within designated areas approved by the government.

14. Can tourists visit rural areas or regions outside the capital? Guided tours generally focus on government-approved sites and cities. Travel to rural areas or regions outside the designated tour sites is usually not allowed.

15. Is there a dress code for visiting tourist sites? While there might not be a strict dress code, dressing modestly and appropriately, especially when visiting religious or cultural sites, is recommended.

North Korea offers a mix of historical, cultural, and natural attractions, allowing tourists to gain unique insights into the nation’s identity and history. Keep in mind that travel to North Korea is tightly controlled, and visitors must adhere to the rules and regulations set by the government and tour operators.

You want more on Places to Visit in North Korea? ⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️

Our Top 5 Best Places To Visit In North Korea – Final Thoughts:

Traveling to North Korea offers an unparalleled adventure, providing insights into a nation that remains largely unexplored by the outside world. It’s essential to approach your journey with an open mind, respect for local customs, and a desire to understand the cultural and historical nuances that shape this captivating land.

While guided tours are required and restrictions apply, the opportunity to step into a world few have experienced is a remarkable and unforgettable endeavor.

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Our Top 5 Best Places To Visit In North Korea – By David John

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Top Things to Do in North Korea

Places to visit in north korea.

• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Good for Kids
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Adventurous
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Demilitarized Zone

2. Tower of the Juche Idea

3. Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum

4. Geumsusan Memorial Palace

5. Kim Il-sung Square

6. Mansudae Grand Monument

7. The State Circus

8. Kim Il Sung Stadium

9. Concrete Wall

10. Triumphal Arch

11. Masikryong Ski Resort

12. Tanjun Mausoleum

13. Rungrado May Day Stadium

14. Monument to the Korean Workers Party

15. Mount Kumgang

16. Daedong River (Taedong River)

17. Grand People's Study House

18. Munsu Water Park

19. Pyongyang Metro

20. Paektusan

21. Mansudae Art Studio Gallery

22. Koryo Museum

23. Koguryo Tombs

24. International Friendship Exhibition

25. Chollima Statue

26. Tomb of King Kongmin

27. Kaeson Youth Park

28. Kwangbok Department Store

29. Pohyonsa

30. Mount Myohyang

What travellers are saying.

• Disclosures

How to Visit North Korea’s DMZ Border (Updated 2023)

A s controversial a place as North Korea is, it's swiftly gaining attention from the curious tourist eye. Our intrigue to see it was piqued during a visit to Seoul with friends. Having now taken the DMZ tour ourselves, this highly informative if not haunting experience is one we would highly recommend . So, if you've got guts and a desire to get a snippet into one of the most closed countries on earth, here's how to do it!

Getting there & where to stay

First, you need to get yourself to Seoul, which is the nearest major city to the DMZ border. South Korea is only reachable by flight, with most planes flying into Incheon International Airport. Use Skyscanner and search by entire month to see the cheapest dates to fly. Be sure to check our flight booking hacks here to get yourself the best price. And don't forget to book your airport transfer and a 4G Data SIM card before you land!

A fast way to get a big discount on your flight is to sign up for the Chase Sapphire Preferred credit card. This card offers a massive sign-up bonus of 60,000 bonus points (worth $750 ) after spending $4,000 in the first 3 months. United and Singapore Airlines are both partner airlines of this card, and both offer flights to Seoul, meaning you can convert your points to these airline loyalty programs, or just book directly through Chase Ultimate Rewards.

Seoul is a buzzing megacity with plenty of enticing accommodation options. There are plentiful  AirBNBs  and  hotel  selections, but be sure to reserve ahead in peak season. Some convenient neighbourhood options include Hongdae, Itaewon, Myeongdong, Gangnam, and Jamsil. Check  TripAdvisor  for more local tips and advice.

There is plenty to explore in Seoul itself, and a local guide can help ensure you catch the best of the best. Be sure to check out the Gyeongbok Palace & Temple , or grab the Seoul Pass , which grants free entry to 65 attractions and discounted entry to 101 more.

How to visit North Korea's DMZ Border:

Step 1. choose your points of interest.

There are several companies that operate DMZ tours. As much as I despise group tours, you can only visit the DMZ with a tour , as it has restricted civilian access and requires a mandatory military escort.

No two tours are the same, but you should choose one based on your budget, customer reviews, and points of interest that are included. Tours can be browsed with reviews, prices, and instant confirmation through Klook , GetYourGuide and Viator . The main highlights to select from are as follows:

The Joint Security Area (JSA)

Located in Panmunjom, the JSA is the closest point a tourist can get to North Korea . At this spot, you'll have a chance to physically stand in North Korea itself and take a photo as proof (more on that below). This area is occupied by the South Korean and US military, and is complete with a gift shop selling original items from North Korea, including stamps, money, and wine (which in our experience tastes like nail polish remover and turpentine but hey, at least you can say you tried it).

NOTE: As of 2023, the JSA is still closed to visitors due to COVID, and is not included in any tours.

Odusan Unification Observatory

One can safely view day-to-day life in North Korea without setting foot in the country at Mt Odu Observatory. Binoculars (free of charge) provide ultra zoomed up views of North Korea opposite the Han river below. On our visit we were able to see civilians walking around on the other side.

Infiltration Tunnels

Scarily enough, around the time that the North and South were having peace talks, North Korea began digging underground tunnels to infiltrate the South. They were never completed, but were discovered in 1984. The longest tunnel is 1,082 metres. The 3rd tunnel is the closest to Seoul (only 44km away) and could move ~30,000 troops and artillery per hour.

Dora Observatory

This observatory offers binocular views of North Korea's fake town, Kijong-dong. The town was first built in the 1950's to lure South Koreans to defect and move across the border. From visual observations from the South, it has been uninhabited with windowless, incomplete buildings since its construction.

Dora Observatory is so named after Dorasan the mountain on which it sits. The nearest train station has a fully completed train line that runs to Pyongyang. Though the North cooperated in its completion, it was never used. It is hoped that when re-unification is reached, the train line will be used to connect the two Koreas.

Freedom Bridge

The Freedom Bridge connects North and South Korea, though a massive barricade blocks entry to the connecting point over the river. If the two sides are ever connected, this bridge could be used to enter and exit North Korea.

Step 2. Select a tour

Once you've decided on your must-see highlights (as listed above), you can select a tour.

There are traditional tour companies to choose from, which are listed at the end of this article along with prices and contact information, but it's much easier to book tours online with Klook , GetYourGuide  and Viator . You pay in advance and get fast confirmation, so all you need to do is bring your voucher to the tour. There are reviews, photos, and videos that make choosing the right tour simple. The traditional companies require back and forth e-mail or phone communication when booking direct, so Klook , GetYourGuide  and  Viator are convenient ways to avoid all that hassle.

One of the most popular tours is this day tour on Klook , with more than 50,000 bookings. This is the tour most of our readers have chosen, and is the tour we would select today. Our trip was now several years ago, and at the time we took the Special Panmunjom Tour by Panmunjeom Travel Center  which does not visit the tunnels but goes to Odu Observatory and the JSA. This tour offered the chance to speak with a North Korean refugee (defector). This allowed us to learn about how people escape the North, how they adapt to life afterwards, and what knowledge they have of the outside world living in North Korea.

Get $10 USD off your first Klook purchase with coupon code THRIFTY10 (minimum spend $120 USD, new users only)

Here are some of the top-rated tours that can be booked online:

South Korea Demilitarized Zone Half-Day Tour (Bestseller)

From Seoul: Half-Day Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) Tour

DMZ Past and Present: Korean Demilitarized Zone Tour from Seoul

Step 3. take ( lots of ) photos of north korea.

Much of the road towards the JSA border runs parallel to the Han River, which separates the two countries. It's nothing short of unique to be sitting in a bus with views of North Korea passing by out your window.

The binoculars at the Dora and Odu observatory provide ultra zoomed views of North Korea. One can even see North Korean civilians walking around on the other side, as we did during our visit at Odu . At Dora Observatory, North Korea's fake town, Kijong-dong, is viewed.

Step 4. Cross the border into North Korea

On a tension-free day at the JSA, one can legally take a step into North Korea. But how and why ?

The blue buildings pictured below are UN Command neutral zones. Midway, the inside of these blue buildings cross the North/South Korea border. Inside the building on the right (UNCMAC) is where meetings between the two countries are housed.

If you want photo evidence that you physically stood in North Korea, this can be done . You can pose with a South Korean soldier within  North Korea at the back of the UNCMAC room. Be warned though (and you will be), if you cross through the door behind you, no one is responsible for your safety as you'll be alone and in North Korea.

Important Points About DMZ Tours

• Many tours require reservation 2-5 days in advance , so check ahead.
• If visiting the JSA, you must sign a waiver agreeing that no one is responsible for accident, injury, or even death . Take comfort in the fact that these tours are done every day and you are accompanied by military escorts at the border!
• You must bring your passport for most tours , and it is checked by army personnel on arrival at the JSA.
• You must adhere to the specified dress code (e.g. no ripped jeans, sandals, or unkempt hair). These rules are strictly enforced as North Korean soldiers take photos and produce false propaganda that other countries are too poor to afford proper clothing.
• Tours can end unexpectedly at any time if tensions rise at the border . That means you are not be guaranteed to step into the UNCMAC at the JSA, nor is it certain you'll get a photo across the border.

In Summary…

Partaking in the DMZ tour allows yourself to gain much more depth on a humanitarian crisis that the world does not know enough about. If you have the chance to do this trip, I'd highly recommend it.

Tour Companies & Pricing

Alternatively, you can contact one of the tour companies below directly and book with them.

Panmunjeom Travel Center Website : www.panmunjomtour.com Telephone : +82-2-771-5593 (Korean, English, Japanese) Price : 80,000-77,000 won (~$60-$77 USD). All tours include lunch. Note : Tours offered in Korean, English, and Japanese. This is the only company that allows you to meet a North Korean defector/refugee, ask them questions, and better understand the human rights issues of North Korea.

VIP Travel Website: http://www.vviptravel.com/eng/ Telephone: 02-739-3501 ext. 4 Price: 55,000-135,000 won ($48 – $120 USD). Most tours include lunch. Notes: Tours offered in English, Japanese, Chinese. None of the tours include any forced shopping stops.

Koridoor Website :  www.koridoor.co.kr Telephone : 02-6383-2570 ext. 2 Price : 43-89,000 won (~$41-$80 USD). Most tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in English.

JSA Tour Website : www.jsatour.com Telephone : +82-2-2266-3350 Price : 85,000-120,000 won (~$85-$120 USD). All tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

DMZ Spy Tour Website : www.dmzspytour.com Telephone : +82-10-3950-8350 Price: 88,000-114,000 won (~$88-$114 USD). Tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

International Culture Service Club Website : www.tourdmz.com Telephone : +82-2-755-0073 Price : 65,000-85,000 won (~$65-$85 USD). All tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English and Japanese. This is the only company that does Saturday tours.

Seoul City Tour Website : www.seoulcitytour.net Telephone : +82-2-774-3345 Price: 40,000-125,000 won (~$40-$125 USD). Only some tours include lunch. Notes : Tours are offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

KTB Tour Website : www.go2korea.co.kr Telephone : +82-2-778-0150 Price : 65,000-130,000 won (~$65-$130 USD). All tours include lunch. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, and Chinese.

DMZ & JSA Tour (Professional Guide Service / Celebrity's choice Agency) Website : www.cosmojin.com Telephone : +82-2-318-0345 (Korean, English, Japanese), +82-2-318-0425 (Chinese) Price : 46,000 won (~$46 USD) for half-day tour, 87,000 won (~$87 USD) for full day tour. Lunch included on full day tour. Notes : Tours offered in Korean, English, Japanese, Chinese.

Thrifty Nomads has partnered with CardRatings for our coverage of credit card products. Thrifty Nomads and CardRatings may receive a commission from card issuers. Opinions expressed here are author's alone. Responses are not provided or commissioned by the bank advertiser. Responses have not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by the bank advertiser. It is not the bank advertiser's responsibility to ensure all posts and/or questions are answered.

You guys are so brave! This makes me a bit nervous and I’m not sure I would be able to do it!

The link to the GetYourGuide tour you provided doesn’t work. Do you have an updated link by any chance? Thank you!

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Disclosures Many of the listings that appear on this website are from companies which we receive compensation. This compensation may impact how and where products appear on this site (including, for example, the order in which they appear). The site does not review or include all companies or all available products. Thrifty Nomads has partnered with CardRatings for our coverage of credit card products. Thrifty Nomads and CardRatings may receive a commission from card issuers. Opinions, reviews, analyses & recommendations are the author’s alone, and have not been reviewed, endorsed or approved by any of these entities.

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How to Travel to North Korea

Last Updated: October 25, 2022 References

This article was co-authored by Stef Katz . Stef Katz is a Travel Agent and the Founder of The Travel Superhero. She has helped clients enjoy convenience, access, personal attention, and ease in their travel planning for 6 years. Stef specializes in elevated social travel and finds ways to bring peace of mind to her travelers with open communication, genuine care, and professional support. She holds an Associate's Degree in Liberal Arts from Miami Dade College and a Bachelor's Degree in Marketing from the University of Florida, as well as numerous certifications with destinations, tour companies, and cruise lines in the travel industry. There are 12 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 30,369 times.

Known as the “hermit kingdom,” trips to North Korea are extremely limited, but can spark curiosity in foreign travellers. Many countries have active travel bans advising their citizens not to travel to North Korea. Tightened travel restrictions followed the death of Otto Warmbier in 2017, an American student who was arrested during his trip in North Korea. After his release, he returned to the U.S. in a coma and then passed away. [1] X Research source Travelers can usually visit North Korea only in very special cases. If you are allowed to travel to North Korea, research its laws and culture, and prepare in case of emergencies.

Completing Necessary Paperwork

• For example, citizens in the UK need to contact the Korean embassy in London to apply for a visa. [2] X Trustworthy Source Official UK government website Official website for the public sector of the UK government Go to source
• U.S. citizens can apply to receive a special validation passport at https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/passports/requirements/passport-for-travel-to-north-korea.html . But get ready for denial as obtaining a Special Validated Passport is rare.
• If you are traveling from South Korea, you will need permission from both the Republic of Korea and the DPRK to tour North Korea.

• Some tour operators like Koryo Tours and Mir Corporation have stopped leading trips for citizens in certain countries (like the U.S.) until travel bans are lifted, so check their websites to make sure you can join. [4] X Research source

Taking Precautions Before Your Trip

• The Embassy of Sweden Pyongyang acts as the protecting power for U.S., Australian and Canadian citizens. [8] X Research source

• For example, citizens in Ireland can register with the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade if they’re traveling outside Ireland or Great Britain. [10] X Research source
• U.S. citizens can enroll in Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) at https://step.state.gov/ .

Staying Safe While in North Korea

• You cannot take Korean money out of the country when you exit. [13] X Research source

• Don't fold or dispose of newspapers that have the image of the Kim dynasty's members on them. It can be taken the wrong way by North Korean officials.
• Speech is extremely restricted in North Korea so it's best to avoid saying anything.

Community Q&A

• Remember that even for minor crimes, you could be imprisoned for several years or for a life sentence, or even be executed. Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 1
• Do not disrespect any of the past or current leaders; it is a crime. Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 1
• Traveling to high-risk areas like North Korea raises the risk of kidnapping, theft, rape, injury or hostage-taking. [15] X Research source Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0
• The risk of arrest and detainment is high, even if you are adequately prepared. [16] X Research source Thanks Helpful 3 Not Helpful 0
• Getting used to the culture can be difficult: what might not be considered a crime in your home country can be considered a crime under North Korean law enforcement. [17] X Research source Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0
• If you travel without a special validation passport, then you can be arrested by either North Korean officials or your home country's officials. [18] X Research source Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0
• It is illegal to call the country North Korea while you're there. Thanks Helpful 3 Not Helpful 1
• It is best to stay silent, not to touch anything, and to view everything with your eyes. You can share your experiences afterwards. Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0
• If you visit the Demilitarized Zone from either North or South Korea, you also should remain silent. Both North and South Korean guards can arrest or hurt you if you do not obey their orders. Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 0
• Don't try to overthrow the government; you will be punished in the same manner as if you were to overthrow your own government. As obvious as it may sound, someone actually tried it and did not get away easily. [19] X Research source Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 2
• Breaking any law in North Korea can result in being taken to a labor camp where you will face horrible conditions and torture. Always be extremely careful not to break any laws. Thanks Helpful 2 Not Helpful 1

You Might Also Like

• ↑ https://www.nytimes.com/2017/06/19/us/otto-warmbier-north-korea-dies.html?module=inline
• ↑ https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/north-korea/entry-requirements
• ↑ https://www.cnbc.com/2018/06/07/what-its-like-to-travel-to-north-korea.html
• ↑ https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/10/travel/north-korea-travel.html
• ↑ https://www.cbsnews.com/news/heres-what-it-will-cost-you-to-travel-to-north-korea/
• ↑ https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/before-you-go/travelers-with-special-considerations/high-risk-travelers.html
• ↑ https://www.dfa.ie/home/index.aspx?id=410
• ↑ https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/KoreaDemocraticPeoplesRepublicof.html
• ↑ https://www.dfa.ie/travel/citizens-registration/
• ↑ https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/north-korea-travel-advisory.html
• ↑ https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/passports/requirements/passport-for-travel-to-north-korea.html
• ↑ https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/worldviews/wp/2016/02/29/north-koreas-recipe-for-bargaining-detained-westerner-script-tv-cameras/?utm_term=.465443edfa99

About This Article

Before you can travel to North Korea, you'll need to check your country's official government site to see if they restrict or ban travel to North Korea. Once you're certain you can travel there, book a tour by looking up a tour operator that's been approved by the North Korean government. Although you should be able to find a package with airfare and accommodations, you may still need to book plane tickets to the city where your tour starts. Since the threat of arrest or detention in North Korea is high, make sure you know how to contact your government in case of an emergency. You should also adhere to North Korea's strict laws and cultural regulations on behavior, which make it illegal to perform religious activities or possess items that criticize North Korea. For more tips, like how to stay safe while in North Korea, keep reading. Did this summary help you? Yes No

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North Korea (DPRK)

Why should you choose Koryo Tours?

Choosing to travel to unusual destinations such as North Korea is a big decision, and choosing the right people to take you is an incredibly important part of that. Learn about how we facilitate tourism responsibly in some of the most interesting and unique destinations on our planet, and at the same time ensure you get the most out of your once-in-a-lifetime experience .

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• Group Tours
• Private Tours
• Specialist Tours
• Special Events

A tour to North Korea (DPRK) is the ultimate in adventure travel. Join Koryo Tours as we explore Pyongyang and some of North Korea's most remote locations for an experience you'll never forget, all in the safe hands of North Korea tour experts.

Our North Korea tours are designed with the purpose of making sure you see and do as much as possible on tour in North Korea (DPRK). Touring this country is the opportunity of a lifetime for many, and we use our 28 years of North Korea experience to ensure you get the most out of your time there. We have classic , speciality , and budget North Korea tours scheduled throughout the year. Get in touch for help on deciding which North Korea tour is best for you. Our experts are happy to answer all your questions. Unsure if a North Korea group tour is for you? Read Why Choose a Koryo Tours Group Tour or contact us. Alternatively, head to our North Korea Private Tours and get in touch for a bespoke North Korea tour itinerary. North Korea Country Profile North Korea FAQs North Korea Map Note: We require all travellers on international and North Korea tours to have valid travel insurance . NOTICE: The North Korean border is currently closed due to the Coronavirus pandemic. Please check COVID-19 & North Korea for updated information. NO Tours to North Korea (DPRK) will be taking place until the border is open again. The tours below are planned departure dates but until the country is open to tourists again all tours will remain suspended.

Use the search function below to find tours. Please note that our tours for May Day start in April and tours for China National Day (1 October) start in September.

• Pyongyang Marathon

Budget Tours

April 2024 — 2 tours, april 26 - may 4/5 2024.

The May Day Tour

8 nights in North Korea + Beijing-Pyongyang travel time

Join in the celebrations on May Day in North Korea, and travel widely around the country on this amazing tour. From 1645 EUR per person

Please apply by 10th April, 2024 .

May Day is one of the best times to visit North Korea during the calendar year for the fine weather and festivities. Also known as International Workers’ Day, or Labour Day, May Day is a day off and locals take to the outdoors for picnics, dancing, and sports.

Join in the celebrations as you experience North Korean culture like a local. In addition to the highlights of the North Korean capital Pyongyang and historic Kaesong on the Demilitarised Zone (the North/South border), we’ll have time for walks in the city, dining at some of Pyongyang’s most interesting restaurants, shopping at the Kwangbok Department Store , a picnic lunch, scenic Mt. Kuwol , crossing the West Sea Barrage . We will also go off the beaten track for a short visit to Anju , an industrial city between Pyongyang and Mt. Myohyang and hardly ever on offer to visitors

If time isn’t on your side, take a look at our 6-night  May Day Short Tour .

Scroll down for an overview of our May Day Long Weekend Tour package highlights, tour itinerary, transport options , DPRK tourist visa information, and extra add-ons.

Koryo Tours International Tours

Mongolia | Turkmenistan | Kazakhstan | Bhutan | Russia | Tajikistan  

• Pyongyang on the May 1st national holiday.
• Kaesong and the infamous DMZ.
• Mt. Kuwol - scenic mountain area interspersed with temples.

Briefing Day

April 25 | thursday.

*Pre-Tour Briefing | We require all travellers to attend a pre-tour briefing that covers regulations, etiquette, safety, and practicalities for travel in North Korea. The briefing lasts approximately one hour followed by a question and answer session. Please be punctual for the briefing. You can come early, meet your fellow travellers, and pay any outstanding tour fees. A proper briefing is an essential part of travel to North Korea. For this tour, we will hold two briefings. One in the morning for those departing by train this afternoon and the other in the afternoon for those departing by flight the next day.

• Recommended latest arrival in Beijing.
• 10:00   | Briefing for those departing by train.
• 16:00   |   Briefing for those departing by flight.  
• 17:27 |   Train travellers depart Beijing Station by Chinese domestic sleeper train to Dandong , the Chinese city on the border with North Korea. Please arrange independent travel to the train station and arrive at least an hour and a half early for the train departure.

Overnight   |   Hotel in Beijing not included in the tour for those taking the flight the next day. Contact us for recommendations near our office! Those travelling by train will spend the night on the train.

April 26 | Friday

Arrival day in Pyongyang

• Train transfer at Dandong Station from overnight sleeper train to Dandong-Pyongyang local. Our local representative in Dandong will assist with the transfer. Train crosses the China-North Korea border followed by North Korean customs and immigration.
• Flight departure from Beijing Capital International Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 on Air Koryo flight JS152 at 12:20. A 1.5-hour flight with basic lunch ( vegetarian option is subject to availability). Check-in starts 3 hours prior to departure.
• Flight arrival to Pyongyang's Sunan International Airport (FNJ) at 15:20. DPRK immigration and customs, meet your Korean guides and transfer to the city.
• Grand People’s Study House  |  Huge national library and public university housed in a large neo-traditional Korean building overlooking Kim Il Sung Square and the downtown Pyongyang.  
• Train arrival to Pyongyang Railway Station at 18:45.  
• Walk on Future Scientists' Street | An evening stroll through one of Pyongyang's newest neighbourhoods.

Overnight | Yanggakdo International Hotel , Pyongyang. Home away from home for most (but not all!) foreign visitors to Pyongyang, this 47-story hotel is located on an island in the middle of the Taedong River and offers great views of the city. Comfortable rooms and comprehensive leisure facilities: swimming pool, spa, billiards, bowling, gift shops, tea houses, beer brewed on-site, and a Chinese-run casino.

April 27 | Saturday

Pyongyang City Tour

• Kim Il Sung Square   | Pyongyang’s central square lined with government ministries, museums, and The Grand People’s Study House.  
• Foreign Languages Bookshop   | Store selling Korean publications translated into English, German, French, Russian, Chinese, and Spanish. Also pick up DVDs, postcards, and small works of art.  
• Mansudae Fountain Park | The historic centre of Pyongyang popular with local citizens after school and on weekends. Flanked by examples of ancient, socialist, and modern architecture.  
• Mansudae Grand Monument  | Enormous bronze statues of President Kim Il Sung and Leader Kim Jong Il overlooking downtown Pyongyang. A presentation of flowers and bow by the group is customary here ( 5 EUR ). Please note this is a government-administered sight and visits are subject to cancellation. Visits are optional and require a certain dress code (close-toed shoes and covered legs and shoulders).  
• Mt Ryonggak | Enjoy a picnic lunch in this park on the outskirts of Pyongyang and popular with locals. Stretch your legs after lunch witha short hike to the top of Mt Ryonggak itself.
• Mangyongdae Native House  | Birthplace and childhood home of President Kim Il Sung. A traditional Korean house in a beautiful natural surrounding.  
• Kwangbok Department Store   |  Exchange for Korean currency and shop with the citizens of Pyongyang! Try the snack stands for some of Pyongyang’s best local eats.  
• Munsu Water Park | We’ll take a break at this outdoor and indoor water park with water slides, lap pools, and hot tubs. Bar, coffee shop, and shops for non-swimmers ( Entry fee 2 EUR; swimming fee 10 EUR with suit rental )  
• Pyongyang Metro Tour  | One of the deepest metro systems in the world with stunning artwork reflecting the name of each station. We’ll ride six stations on the Chollima Line.  
• Arch of Triumph  | A 60-m archway commemorating the liberation of Korea from Japanese colonial rule and larger than its counterpart in Paris.

Overnight |  Yanggakdo International Hotel, Pyongyang

April 28 | Sunday

Pyongyang, Mt. Myohyang

• Kumsusan Palace of the Sun  | Mausoleum of the DPRK leadership where President Kim Il Sung and Leader Kim Jong Il lie in state and the most solemn location on the itinerary.  Please note formal dress is required. Men require collared shirt with tie, dark non-jean pants, and dark shoes. Women require covered shoulders, knee-length dress or pants, and closed toed shoes. The visit will take most of the morning and visitors are asked to bow a number of times inside. This is a state-administered site and visits are subject to local conditions. Cancellations are rare but possible.  
• Revolutionary Martyrs’ Cemetery  |   Hilltop cemetery with dozens of bronze busts of those who took part in the liberation of Korea from Japanese colonial rule. It is customary to present flowers here.  
• Golden Lane Bowling Centre | Where Pyongyang locals go for their ten-pin fix ( 2.5 EUR per person per game ). Also has billiards and arcade games. Non-bowlers can head next door to the Kumrung Leisure Centre for an air gun shooting range ( approximately 6 EUR per 20 round cartridge ) and some of the best coffee in Pyongyang.
• Drive to Anju , a mid-sized industrial city located on the road and rail line north of Pyongyang on the Chongchon River. During the Korean War, major battles were fought near here between North Korean-Chinese forces and UN-South Korean forces. Coal is mined nearby.  
• Paeksang Pavilion and Anju City Walls  | The greatest pavilion in Kwanso (Pyong’an Province,) which overlooks the Chongchon River. Rebuilt after destruction in the Korean War.  
• Continue driving to Mt. Myohyang .  
• Manpok Valley Hike   | Various options for hikes of a range of distances/difficulties. Passing waterfalls, hermitages, interesting rocks, lovely wooded areas, and viewing points.

Overnight | Huichon Hotel , Mt. Myohyang  | Basic but clean hotel located 30 minutes north of Mt. Myohyang. Very good local food much different from the lowlands, on-site sauna, and limited electricity.

April 29 | Monday

Mt. Myohyang

• International Friendship Exhibition |  A semi-subterranean exhibition hall displaying gifts of all kinds given to the DPRK leaders by foreign states, leaders, and organizations. The exhibition is a fascinating look into material culture in the second half of the 20th century. Highlights include a plane given by the Soviet Union, basketball signed by Michael Jordan from the US State Department, and vodka given by Dennis Rodman. The visit takes most of the morning. Presentable dress required .  
• Pohyon Buddhist Temple | A peaceful temple dating back to 1042 CE with stone pagoda and repository of print blocks and historic text of the Tripitaka Koreana , Buddhist scriptures first produced to invoke divine assistance from foreign invasions during the Koryo Dynasty.
• Drive back to Pyongyang ( 2.5-3 hours ) with a stop at Ryongmun Caves | A subterranean complex of limestone caves and grottoes. Led by an experienced local guide, you will see weirdly (and suggestively) shaped rocks and stalactites/stalagmites and hear a wealth of stories and legends about each - some not appropriate for young audiences.  
• Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum and USS Pueblo  | We’ll tour this world-class museum led by a local museum guides. Renovated in 2012 and its exhibits of Korean War from the DPRK perspective containing artifacts, documents, photos, and lifelike dioramas. The exterior grounds house the War Victory Monument and displays of Korean People’s Army Hero Equipment and captured equipment from the US military, including the spyship USS Pueblo . Central to the understanding of the country today and highlight of the trip.  
• Kaeson Funfair | Take on the rides of Pyongyang’s small but excellently located central funfair with the locals: pirate ship, ‘vominator’, rollercoaster, bumper cars, arcades, and more. Entry and ride tickets purchased on the spot .

April 30 | Tuesday

Kaesong, Panmunjom, DMZ

• Drive south to Kaesong , historic capital of the medieval Koryo Dynasty (918-1392 AD). Once located in South Korea, the city changed hands during the Korean War. It is now located just north of the DMZ. 3 hours by road.  
• Panmunjom Armistice Village and DMZ  | The site of the signing of the 1953 armistice that ended the Korean War and the demarcation line between north and south. On some days it is possible to visit the hut straddling the line, where negotiations between both sides once took place. Here we will be accompanied by military guides from the Korean People's Army.  
• Kaesong Koryo Museum  | Once the Songgyung Academy, a Confucian school, and now a museum on the Koryo Dynasty exhibiting historical objects, statues, pagodas, and porcelain from that era. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.  
• Kaesong Korean Stamp Exhibition Hall   | Store selling stamps, postcards, local ginseng , souvenirs, art, and more! One of the best postcard collections in the country and friendly staff.
• Traditional Royal Korean Lunch ( pangsanggi )   |  A meal made of 12 dishes served in brass bowls fit for the kings of old. The more dishes, the more distinguished the guest! Traditional Korean 'sweet meat soup' is an option here ( 5 EUR ).
• Concrete Wall and view of DMZ  | View of a complex fortification system erected on the southern boundary of the DMZ accompanied by a military guide. The wall is seen as evidence of intent to permanently divide the nation. A 45 minute drive each way from Kaesong through scenic countryside.  
• Janam Hill and Old City View | Statues of the DPRK leadership on a hill overlooking Kaesong city and historic pavilion used for archery demonstrations in days of yore.  
• Old City Walk and South Gate | A stroll from the hotel through Kaesong’s historic district lined with homes dating back to the Ri Dynasty from the city’s historic South Gate.  
• Drive to Pyongyang with a stop at the Monument to the Three-Charters of National Reunification , Iconic arch over the Pyongyang-Kaesong Highway dedicated to joint meetings between Koreas, north and south. Also known as the ‘Arch of Reunification’. A 3-hour drive.

May 1 | Wednesday - International Labour Day

Pyongyang for the national holiday celebrations - exact events confirmed nearer the date itself

• Taesongsan Folk Festival l Large park/funfair at the edge of the city, locals flock here on May Day for games, picnics, and general celebrations. Join them and wander freely in the crowds. the single best time of the year for mingling with the Pyongyang populace and an unforgettable experience!  
• Moranbong Park with picnic lunch |  We’ll take a stroll and have picnic lunch in Pyongyang’s central park popular with locals for picnics, dances, and sports. The park is filled with historic pavilions, walls, and monuments- modern and ancient, a few of which are among the traditional ‘Eight Great Sights of Pyongyang’
• Tower of the Juche Idea  | Iconic tower dedicated to the DPRK’s guiding philosophy on the Taedong River. Take the elevator to the top for 5 EUR for great views of the city.  
• Monument to the Party Foundation  | Iconic structure featuring the hammer, sickle, writing brush which make up the emblem of the Worker’s Party of Korea and represent workers, farmers, and intellectuals.  
• Tram Ride  | A ride through Pyongyang on one of the city’s trams from Kwangbok Street. A Koryo exclusive!  
• Mass Dance  | We'll watch as hundreds of locals, many in brightly coloured national dress, join together in a beautiful choreographed dance in the heart of the city (and maybe even join in ourselves!)

Pyongyang Circus (or other available performance) | We will leave time this afternoon to try and catch a local performance — either of the Pyongyang Circus, theatre, or a revolutionary opera. Schedules are typically announced only a few weeks before the trip. If no performances are available, we will find an alternative activity in the city. Tickets to be paid on the spot (from 5-25 EUR) depending on the available performance.

Overnight | Yanggakdo International Hotel, Pyongyang

May 2 | Thursday

Pyongyang, Nampo

• A walking tour of some of the main streets of Pyongyang as well as some of the lesser-known monuments, markers, and famous local spots - try some street food, do some shopping, mingle with local pedestrians. This is a fantastic way to see the city at the end of an adventurous tour and will see you get much more access to the North Korean capital and people than almost anyone else!  
• Okryugwan  | A meal at Pyongyang’s most famous restaurant. Housed in a huge traditional building on the banks of the Taedong River. Okryugwan specialises in Pyongyang Cold Noodles.

Pyongyang International Football Academy |   Premier football school for young and promising athletes. Tour the facilities and learn about the history of football in the DPRK. Has multiple training pitches where you can test yourself against some students here.

• May Day Stadium |   Largest in the DPRK, this massive structure plays host to the amazing Mass Games as well as other mega-scale events. One of Pyongyang's most iconic buildings.  
• Helmut Sacher Coffee Shop | Opened in 2012, A branch of the famed Viennese Coffee and Cake merchant Helmut Sacher’s empire in Pyongyang on Kim Il Sung Square.  
• Drive to Nampo   (approx. 1.5 hr drive, depending on road conditions)

Overnight |   R yonggang Hot Spa Hotel , Nampo. Compound with holiday houses and the main building for dinner and entertainment. Spa bath in every room with mineral water from the Sindok Spring - the most famous mineral spa in the DPRK. Billiards, karaoke, and ping pong. Bring a torch! Optional Petrol Clam BBQ  ( approximately 5 EUR ).

May 3 | Friday

Nampo, Pyongyang

• West Sea Barrage  | An 8 km concrete, steel, and earthen barrage constructed between the Taedong River estuary and the West Sea for land reclamation, irrigation, flood prevention, and power generation. It also acts as a ship lock and fish ladder. One of the DPRK’s greatest engineering feats.  
• Woljong Temple   |  Buddhist temple established in the middle of the 9th century and later rebuilt at the start of the Ri Dynasty.  
• Mt. Kuwol | A scenic mountain area on the West Coast of Korea. Picnic lunch here before crossing the West Sea Barrage once again
• Tae’an Glass Factory | Factory producing glass and glass products for the domestic market. Watch the glass-making process from smelting to sheet-cutting and even try to break a sheet of strengthened glass.  
• Chongsam-ri Co-operative Farm  | The DPRK’s most famous and iconic model farm. Visited hundreds of times by Kim Il Sung, the place where the ‘Chongsam-ri Method’ was developed (they will explain on-site). See how the farming system works, visit a farmhouse, the local shop, and kindergarten, see the fields and greenhouses.  
• Drive east along the ‘ Youth Hero Highway ’ back to the capital.  
• Mansugyo Beer Bar | A beer bar serving seven types of beer. Popular with locals after work and on weekends. Best place to drink pints with local people.  
• Dinner at Potonggang Lamb BBQ Restaurant | One of our favourites, excellent Korean Barbeque joint, popular with many of our local friends.

May 4 | Saturday

Departure Day from Pyongyang and Return to Beijing by flight or train. Please confirm your preferred transport method upon booking*

• Flight departure from Pyongyang on Air Koryo Flight JS151  at 08:35 with scheduled arrival at Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 at 09:55.
• Train departure by train to Beijing  at 10:25 with transfer in Dandong. The scheduled arrival is to Beijing Station  on Sunday May 5 at 08:40. For this tour the default option is hard sleeper (six beds per berth).

End of Tour

Transport | Train and Flights to North Korea (High-season)

This tour travels between Beijing-Pyongyang by train each way in a hard-sleeper carriage (6 bunks per compartment). The train journey takes 24 hours with a transfer at the city of Dandong. One-way or round-trip flights are also available. The flight takes around 90 minutes. For an extra 265 EUR you can upgrade to a one-way flight. A round-trip ticket costs an additional 435 EUR. We recommend flight entry with a train return for the best overall experience on your trip.

Visit the DPRK border town of Sinuiju

If you're heading back to Beijing by train this option lets you get off for an overnight in Dongrim before the next day's tour of Sinuiju — the border city with China. Spend an extra 24 hours in the DPRK seeing the sites of North Pyongan province. You will then continue on through to Beijing.

Visit Dandong — the Chinese gateway to the DPRK

Instead of immediately returning to Beijing when your tour ends you can take some extra time to visit this fascinating border city, which directly faces the DPRK town of Sinuiju, but lies on the Chinese side of the Yalu River. We offer both one-night and two-night fully guided extensions that take in all the sights of Dandong, with a special North Korea theme.

Upgrade to your own room

All hotel rooms on our all-inclusive group tours feature twin beds, and will be shared. If you'd like a room to yourself then you can upgrade for an extra 40 EUR per night.

Insurance (7 to 9 nights)

We're unable to take you on one of our tours if you do not have medical insurance that covers the destination in question. Issues of isolation and infrastructure where we go mean it would be irresponsible of us to do so. We can provide this if you do not have it — or you can use your own.

What is / is not included?

• Train Beijing – Pyongyang with transfer at Dandong Train Pyongyang – Beijing with transfer at Dandong
• All meals on the tour except for meals on the train and the farewell dinner at the Pizza Restaurant
• Hotel accommodation
• Two local Korean guides, and a driver per group
• A Koryo Tours tour leader
• All transportation in the DPRK

NOT INCLUDED

• North Korean (DPRK) visa fee 60 EUR
• Optional Air Koryo flights (one-way: 265 EUR; round-trip: 435 EUR)
• Optional single room supplement of 40 EUR per night
• Tips for the local Korean guides and driver (approx 10-15 EUR per day)
• Optional activities such as the lift up the Juche Tower (5 EUR) or a visit to the funfair (approx. 2 EUR entrance fee per person)
• Entry tickets for special events if applicable – for example Pyongyang Circus (approx. 20 EUR per person)
• Meals include a complimentary beer and water, but you will need to purchase extra drinks if needed
• Farewell dinner at the Pizza Restaurant
• Spending money for souvenirs
• Sinuiju Extension: RMB 50 for the bus across the bridge to Dandong to be paid on the spot to the local guides

Groups will be in the experienced hands of two or three local Korean guides and an experienced Koryo Tours tour leader . Please note that when on tour your day-to-day itinerary may differ to what is advertised above. Your tour leader will ensure, however, that everything available at the time is covered, and replacement options are provided where needed. We will also add in extras when there is time (such as a visit to a local bar or amusement park).

We visit North Korea regularly so know all the best places to go, and how to make the most of your days there to guarantee the experience of a lifetime. After the tour, we will send out a list of all participants' emails so you can keep in touch, swap photos etc. If you do not wish to be on this list then please let us know.

April 26 - May 2/3 2024

May Day Short Tour

6 nights in North Korea + Beijing-Pyongyang travel time

Join in the celebrations on May Day in North Korea, Pyongyang, the DMZ, + Nampo and Rarely Visited Haeju City From 1305 EUR per person

Join in the celebrations as you experience North Korean culture like a local. In addition to the highlights of the North Korean capital Pyongyang and historic Kaesong on the Demilitarised Zone (the North/South border), we’ll have time for walks in the city, dining at some of Pyongyang’s most interesting restaurants, shopping at the Kwangbok Department Store . We will also go off the beaten track for a short visit to Anju , an industrial city between Pyongyang and Mt. Myohyang and hardly ever on offer to visitors.

Want more? For a longer trip check out The May Day Tour (8 nights) .

• May Day - National Holiday and best day of the year to mix with DPRK locals.
• The International Friendship Exhibition: Cavernous halls displaying all manner of foreign gifts to the DPRK's leaders.

Overnight | Yanggakdo International Hotel, Pyongyang. Home away from home for most (but not all!) foreign visitors to Pyongyang, this 47-story hotel is located on an island in the middle of the Taedong River and offers great views of the city. Comfortable rooms and comprehensive leisure facilities: swimming pool, spa, billiards, bowling, gift shops, tea houses, beer brewed on-site, and a Chinese-run casino.

PMt. Myohyang

• Flight departure from Pyongyang on Air Koryo Flight JS251  at 10:15 with scheduled arrival at Beijing Capital Airport (PEK) Terminal 2 at 11:35.
• Train departure by train to Beijing  at 10:25 with transfer in Dandong. The scheduled arrival is to Beijing Station  on Friday May 3 at 08:40. For this tour the default option is hard sleeper (six beds per berth).

Insurance for up to six nights

• All meals on the tour except for meals on the train

June 2024 — 2 tours

July 2024 — 2 tours, august 2024 — 3 tours, september 2024 — 6 tours, october 2024 — 2 tours, november 2024 — 1 tour, december 2024 — 2 tours, january 2025 — 2 tours, february 2025 — 2 tours, march 2025 — 1 tour, april 2025 — 2 tours, next tour departure dates, east pyongyang.

As seen from the top of the Juche Tower - this is a mainly residential district

Mass Dance - Pyongyang

Mass Dances are held on all major holidays. particpants number from 3000 to 50,000. Tourists can even join in!

Ryugyong Hotel - Pyongyang

Iconic 105-storey building towering over the capital. Koryo Tours have even been to the top of this!

Farming - East Coast

Korea is mainly mountains but has farmland too - a trip to the countryside gives a sense of what rural life is like

Youth Funfair - Pyongyang

A great place to visit in the evening, popular with locals and with all Italian-made rides

Fishing Village - East Coast

Bounded by seas to east and west the villages along the coasts are mainly populated by fishermen catching all manner of seafood

Kwangbok Street - Pyongyang

One of Pyongyang's famous mega-highways. with a dozen lanes accommodating far more cars than ever need to use it

Reunification Monument

On the road from the capital heading south - this monument symbolises ongoing hopes for peaceful reunification of the Korean peninsula

People's Theatre - Pyongyang

Home of the famous Moranbong Band - the DPRK's iconic rock/pop/ensemble

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All You Need to Know About Travel to North Korea

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Can I Travel to North Korea? Yes, You Actually Can & Here’s How

Travel to North Korea is not something a lot of people have done. So there’s really not much information about travel to North Korea online. But, people actually do it. (There’s not many).

So why do people travel to North Korea? HOW do you travel to North Korea? And what should you expect once you’re there…

RELATED: I Have Been To North Korea Almost 30 Times & Counting, Why I Keep Going Back

Table of Contents

Who Travels to North Korea?

There are generally three different types of people that travel to North Korea.

• Those glory seekers looking to tell a tale about the time they went to the ‘mysterious Hermit Kingdom’.
• Those interested in communist and socialist countries.
• Those who want to see the country for themselves instead of just through the eyes of the media.

Within these categories, you have all kinds of people. Different ages, social backgrounds, and different nationalities.

Aside from Chinese people, the most common nationality to see in North Korea are Brits, Germans, Australians, Dutch etc… And Americans – before the travel ban.

Yes, that’s right. Trump’s travel ban forbids US citizens from traveling to North Korea (sorry guys). But Biden has suggested that he may be lifting some of these bans. So let’s see!

For now, US citizens cannot go.

RELATED: The Curious Case Of North Korean Currency & Why It Is So Rare

HOW to Travel to the DPRK?

While most people don’t even know you can travel to North Korea, let’s explore the process of how you get there in the first place.

Firstly, you need to go through a tour company. There’s no other way to get into North Korea. No tour company, no visa, no entry. You will then book a tour through the tour company, depending on how many nights you want to stay, where you want to go etc. Tours normally include everything, from travel into the country, to the accommodation and full board. Although you can of course buy anything extra once you’re in North Korea.

The path to get there is through China. You can either take a plane or a train into North Korea, depending on your time and budget. There are also sometimes flights available from Russia and South-East Asian countries.

In North Korea

Rules & politics.

Once you’re in North Korea, you will be met by your North Korean guides. From the moment you arrive, you can’t walk around by yourself. You should always be accompanied by these guides. Contrary to popular opinion, these guides are not the glamorous ‘government minders’ that the media labels them to be. They are trained tour guides who have studied and worked hard to get where they are.

There are a lot more rules for your travel to North Korea, including rules on photography and what you should and shouldn’t do. You’ll get a full briefing from your tour company before you go into North Korea.

A lot of people are concerned with the safety of the trip. Basically, if you stick to the rules, you will be fine.

Can I Bring my Mobile Phone?

Yes, no problem! (But see below)

Can I Talk to Local North Koreans?

Yes, and no. You can try, but they probably won’t want to talk to you and if you don’t know Korean that’s going to be difficult anyway.

What if I Do Something Bad?

Everyone makes mistakes. If you accidentally break the rules once or twice (depending on what it is!) then that’s fine. A guide might pull you aside and mention it to you. If you do it again and again… Mistakes can only be mistakes for so long, and at some point it must be deliberate. Depending on what you do, you could get yourself, the group, or the guides into trouble. If you’re ever unsure, ask your guides!

Check Your Phone and Electronic Devices

You can bring your phone and laptop, but make sure to check your device before you go in. It is not permitted to have any religious material, Korean material, or anything to do with North Korea on you when you go in. Make sure to delete any Korean dramas you might have downloaded!

Where Can I Go?

Foreigners can currently visit all but one province in North Korea. Aside from city life in Pyongyang, you can head out to the countryside to enjoy skiing, hiking, and even going to the beach and swimming in the sea.

In Pyongyang, your visit will mainly comprise of visits to important historical sites and revolutionary sites, as well as famous monuments such as the Juche Tower and the Mansudae Grand Monuments (the big bronze statues).

Other than that, you might even get to go to some fun places like the bowling alley, you could go ice skating, to the spa, coffee shop, or local beer bar.

Seeing is Believing

Surprisingly, it’s not actually all fake! In fact, there is pretty much northing fake about it. It functions as a country and there are people living their lives – not acting – inside. But I suppose you might need to go there before you believe me on that one.

If you’re looking for all the action you get on the media, for example, rocket launches and military parades, you might be disappointed. Military parades happy very rarely, only on special occasions, and even then it is difficult to see as a foreigner.

Accommodation

What’s a North Korean hotel like?

A lot will tell you that all the tourists are put into the same hotel that sits on an island in the middle of the river so you can’t walk off easily. As glitzy as this Alcatraz-like theory is, we have to bust it, unfortunately. There’s over 10 hotels in Pyongyang alone where foreigners can stay – one even with a great view of the party headquarters.

The Alcatraz hotel is called Yanggakdo, and it’s probably one of the most popular hotels to stay in. It’s big, just got refurbished, and has a lot of facilities. It’s also in a convenient location and gives killer views of Pyongyang city in the morning.

The hotels in North Korea would have all been really nice and really fancy… 30 years ago. But they haven’t really had many makeovers since they were first built and therefore sit in a weird out-dated time capsule. Things break and fall off, sometimes there’s no hot water and blackouts do happen sometimes too. But this is much more frequent in the countryside.

Go with an open mind and embrace the “traditional meets kitsch” interiors with a pinch of salt.

Everyone’s favorite topic!

If you love Korean food, you’ll have no problem. If you’re up for trying different foods, you’ll also have no problem. But, if you’re a strict ‘will-only-eat-pizza-and-chips’ kind of person, you might want to re-think your trip to North Korea, or pack a lot of food.

The food in North Korea is plentiful. You eat in traditional Chinese/Korean style, having food presented in the middle of the table and everyone just grabbing a bit of everything. Food ranges from Bibimbap (fried rice) to noodles, sushi, and everything in between! (Apart from pizza and chips).

For those with dietary requirements, they can also cater for you. Just let them know in advance!

Can I Travel To North Korea Final Thoughts

A tour to North Korea is not for the faint-hearted. It’s not a beach holiday in Barbados or a shopping trip in New York. It’s action-packed and you’ll be on the move from 7am to 7pm at night – with some days being longer. You get your most out of the money, and more. But you will be tired. And, you’ll probably leave North Korea with more questions than answers.

Ultimately, I always come back to the same quote. North Korea is pleasantly underwhelming. You may be underwhelmed, in a good way. It’s pretty normal. But sometimes we go in with such prejudice about it from the media. So go in with a good mind and you’ll learn a lot, discover a lot, and want to find out a lot more.

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Very interesting, I wouldn’t have even considered it before. I would still prefer S Korea of course as it has all the amenities and protection I am looking for.a great write up. Have you been to Iran, I tried that a couple times as an American and my Visa was denied.

I agree with your comment. I visited S. Korea a couple of times, on business. Once I spent three months and enjoyed life in S. Korea. I stayed at the “Chosun Hotel” and enjoyed every minute of my stay in S. Korea. S. Koreans are so friendly and so helpful. Their Metro System is perfectly clean as well as all the passengers, but very crowded during business hours and smelly of “KIMSHY” that is very tasty. At mid-day and 06:00pm, Catholic Churches ring the bells and, surisingly, I watched the majority of pedestrians stopped, made the sign of the Cross and prayed for a few minutes, then proceed to walk. I never knew that in S. Korea there were such a great number of Catholics. During one of my trips, my Wife joined me for one month during Christmas and New Year Season. We went to the Catholic Cathedral for the mid-night Mass. The Cathedral was FULL, but they managed to find us two seats at the end of the Church. All of a sudden, the Photographers of a Television Channel observed us, they came staright to photograh us. Apparently, we were the only non-Asians at the Church and my wife was Blond. I love S. Koreans, I love their food, I love their efficiency and I made a lot of Friends.

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One of China’s top leaders will lead a delegation to North Korea this week

FILE - Chinese paramilitary policemen build a fence near a concrete marker depicting the North Korean and Chinese national flags with the words “China North Korea Border” at a crossing in the Chinese border town of Tumen in eastern China’s Jilin province on Dec. 8, 2012. Zhao Leji, a top Chinese leader will lead a delegation to North Korea this week, both countries announced Tuesday, April 9, 2024.(AP Photo/Ng Han Guan, File)

FILE - Zhao Leji attends a session of China’s National People’s Congress (NPC) at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, Friday, March 10, 2023. Zhao, a top Chinese leader will lead a delegation to North Korea this week, both countries announced Tuesday, April 9, 2024. (AP Photo/Mark Schiefelbein, File)

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BEIJING (AP) — A top Chinese leader will lead a delegation to North Korea this week, both countries announced Tuesday, in what would be the highest-level meeting between the two countries since the pandemic began.

Zhao Leji, who is chairman of the National People’s Congress and considered the No. 3 official in the ruling Communist Party, will visit North Korea from Thursday to Saturday, the Chinese Foreign Ministry said.

No details were released on what was described as a goodwill visit, except that the delegation would attend the opening ceremony for the “China-North Korea Friendship Year.”

“The specific arrangements for the visit are still under negotiation,” Foreign Ministry spokesperson Mao Ning said.

A dispatch from North Korea’s official KCNA news agency also announced the trip.

Zhao is one of the seven members of the Politburo Standing Committee, the Communist Party’s top leadership body headed by Chinese leader Xi Jinping.

Zhao’s visit to North Korea will be the first bilateral exchange involving a Chinese Politburo Standing Committee member since the pandemic started. In 2019, the two countries held a pair of summit meetings , for one of which Xi traveled to Pyongyang.

North Korea and China are expected to hold a number of exchanges to mark the 75th year since they established of diplomatic ties, according to South Korea’s Unification Ministry.

North Korean leader Kim Jong Un has been pushing to boost partnerships with China and Russia in a bid to strength his regional footing and join a united front against the United States.

Kim traveled to Russia in September for a summit with Russian President Vladimir Putin . The U.S., South Korea and others accuse North Korea of supplying conventional weapons for Russia’s war in Ukraine in return for advanced weapons technologies and other support.

China, North Korea’s biggest source of aid, is believed to have long shipped clandestine assistance to help keep afloat its impoverished socialist ally, which it views as a bulwark against U.S. influence on the Korean Peninsula.

“China is key to North Korea’s economy. There is a limit that Russia can do for North Korea economically,” Park Won Gon, a professor at Seoul’s Ewha Womans University. “For the short-term assistance, shipments of food or crude oil can be made. But to make its economy grow in the long term, North Korea needs investments and markets. China is the only country that can provide those to North Korea.” ___

Associated Press writer Jiwon Song in Seoul, South Korea contributed to this report.

US envoy to UN to visit Korean border, North Korean defectors

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French police tightened security around Paris Saint-Germain's (PSG) Parc des Princes stadium on Wednesday following a threat of attacks by Islamic State that adds to security worries ahead of the upcoming summer Olympics.

A Russian missile and drone attack damaged a Ukrainian energy facility in the Black Sea region of Odesa and energy infrastructure in the city of Mykolaiv on Wednesday, keeping up pressure on the embattled power grid, officials said.

Biden’s Envoy to the UN Set to Visit Border With North Korea

• UN envoy Thomas-Greenfield to travel to Japan, South Korea
• Trip follows Russia’s veto on UN resolution about Pyongyang

South Korean soldiers stand guard in the truce village of Panmunjom inside the demilitarized zone separating South and North Korea.

The US ambassador to the United Nations will travel to the North Korean border as the Biden administration looks to reaffirm support for Asian allies and draw attention to a breakdown in Security Council unity over efforts to rein in Pyongyang’s nuclear arsenal.

Ambassador Linda Thomas-Greenfield will become the most senior US official to visit the demilitarized zone dividing the two Koreas since Vice President Kamala Harris went there in 2022. US mission spokesman Nate Evans said it’s part of a bigger week-long trip to South Korea and Japan, both of which are current members of the Security Council.

Kishida’s Aim for U.S. Visit: A Summit with North Korea’s Kim Jong Un

A head of his official visit to the United States, Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Kishida revealed that he is making high-level efforts to arrange a summit with the Supreme Leader of North Korea , Kim Jong Un .

In an interview with CNN on the 7th (local time), Kishida said, “The Japanese government is making high-level efforts to hold a summit with North Korea to resolve unresolved issues and to promote stable relations between the two countries.”

The unresolved issues appear to refer to the issue of Japanese abductees in North Korea and North Korea’s nuclear and missile development and threats. Kishida has previously expressed his intention to resolve the issue of Japanese abductees through a summit with North Korea, but North Korea maintains that this issue has already been resolved.

Kishida, who plans to present a groundbreaking security cooperation plan with the United States at the US- Japan summit on the 10th, emphasized that Japan’s financial strength is also essential for the alliance with the United States.

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He stated, “We are at a historic turning point as we witness Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the ongoing situations in the Middle East and East Asia. That’s why Japan has decided to strengthen its defense capabilities and significantly change its security policy.” He also targeted China, saying, “There are unilateral attempts to change the status quo by force in both the East China Sea and the South China Sea.”

He further noted that building Japan’s deterrent force and military response capabilities is also essential for the alliance with the United States, saying, “I hope the United States understands this and cooperates to promote peace and stability in the region.”

Kishida was reticent about former President Donald Trump’s potential return to power, as he champions America First. However, he did say, “I think it’s important to ensure that American citizens recognize the importance of US-Japan relations, regardless of the election results.”

Kishida will meet with President Joe Biden at the White House on the 10th, followed by a speech to the US Congress and a trilateral summit with the US and the Philippines on the 11th.

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SpaceX launches South Korea's second spy satellite amid race with North

SEOUL, South Korea — South Korea ’s defense ministry said Monday that the country’s second homegrown spy satellite had entered orbit after its launch on a SpaceX Falcon 9 rocket from the John F. Kennedy Space Center in Florida .

The launch, which comes after Seoul’s first spy satellite was put into orbit from California’s Vandenberg Space Force Base in December, was livestreamed on social media platforms X and YouTube.

The Falcon 9 rocket was launched at 7:17 p.m. ET on Sunday and the satellite successfully separated from the launch vehicle 45 minutes later and entered its targeted orbit, the ministry said in a statement.

It made successful communications with a ground station about two hours and 40 minutes after the launch, the ministry added.

The back-to-back launches of reconnaissance satellites come amid a race against North Korea for military capabilities in space.

After two earlier attempts ended in rocket crashes, Pyongyang said in November last year that it used its own Chollima-1 launch vehicle to place the Malligyong-1 reconnaissance satellite in orbit .

North Korea has previously vowed to launch three new spy satellites in 2024.

South Korean Defense Minister Shin Won-sik told reporters that North Korea could launch a second spy satellite as early as mid-April, the Yonhap news agency reported.

Shin’s comment was based on the military’s observation of North Korea’s related activities, South Korean defense ministry spokesman Jeon Ha-gyu told a briefing.

Seoul’s second spy satellite is equipped with a synthetic aperture radar capable of producing images regardless of weather conditions due to how it processes data.